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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/28/2013 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Hello Everyone, I know IACV has been a huge topic on the forum and I have found various pictures in the RX forum and ES forum on the idle air control valve (IACV) or as others call it the idle speed control valve (ISC). However, I have not found a "step by step" posting to date which definitively shows how to clean this thing so that my car stops giving me idling problems. Symptoms I have had included: - low and rough idling that would cause the car engine to start shaking after starting the car - this eventually got worse to the point that when I start my car, it would not idle unless I gave it gas - idling problems for me tended to occur more often after my engine was warm or had been sitting in the sun I hope these series of postings help you fellow LOC members out there. You've certainly helped me in the past so here's my two cents at this common problem. Additionally, the instructions I give are the way in which I have cleaned it myself. As you go about and attempt this, you may find better ways to do so. Please add and refine my instructions/terminology as needed. I am not a professional. I've only changed my oil, air filters, and conducted minor maintenance previously. The bottom line is that if you have the right tools, you should be able to do this. This discovery/ cleaning took me about 2 hours to do cause I ran into problems and there were major steps left out in previous postings that I’ve encountered read. The next time I do this, I believe I can get this done in about an hour or less. Tools Needed: 1) Tightly fitting Philips Screw Driver 2) Carb cleaner that is O2 sensor safe (I've seen CRC. I used Valvoline Carb Cleaner) 3) Locking Grip Pliers (definitely helped me remove the factory tight screws) 4) Small brush for cleaning 5) Towels for cleaning 6) Pliers (help removed brackets holding the hoses) 7) Latex gloves helps with limit the messiness. * I used the same gasket and did not replace it. No problems found. 1) Remove the hose that comes from the engine/motor that connects to the air intake hoses.( Hose is below in red – we’ll refer to this as Hose A) When you pull back the rubber hose covering, you will see that a metal bracket is holding the hose pretty tightly in place. Use the pliers to clasps the two metal pieces together to loosen the bracket and pull the hose loose. You can also do this by hand if it’s easier for you. 2) Upon removing the hose, you will want to remove the two air intake hoses. Loosen the three screws above in green and remove the hose. Below is a picture of the intake hoses removed. 3)After removing the intake hoses, I opened the lid to the air filter and moved this to the side of the car to create more working room. I believe there are two clips on the right holding the lid in place. Just pop the two clips and move the cover to the side. I also took out the air filter and temporarily moved this to the side. 4)After removing the intake hose, the throttle body/IACV/black electric coil is revealed. At this point, I removed the black electric wire from the black coil. Once the electric wire is removed you can remove the black coil from the IACV by removing the two screws. Note, the screws are factory tight so use a tight fitting screw driver to remove the screws. One of my screws was partially stripped from the dealership’s work, so I had to resort to my locking grip pliers which helped out tremendously. After removing the two screws, the black electric piece pops right off. When the black electrical coil is removed from the IACV, it exposes a small pencil sized metal stud. You will also notice a washer that sits on this stud. Don’t lose this washer. Take it and put it aside so it doesn’t fall off when you continue on in the next steps. 5)Additionally, I removed the hose coming out of the IACV. We’ll call this Hose B. This hose can be removed in the same manner by clamping the bracket and pulling the hose out. You will see that the hose is removed below. Below are pictures of before and after. 6)Here is where the fun begins. I initially attempted to remove the four screws attached to the IACV at this point, but found that after an hour, this would be nearly impossible to remove considering the location of the screws were in an extremely tight spot. The only way I would be able to remove the IACV is to remove right throttle body. Not as tough as it sounds. Three screws need to be removed to accomplish this. Again, be careful when removing the screws. Also you will see I removed another electric plug and I also cut a tie wrap. Once you complete these steps, the throttle body/ IACV comes out pretty easily. Note when you remove the throttle body, there will be one LAST hose connected to the IACV. Be careful when you remove this hose as radiator fluid may spill. Some of my fluid spilled out so I just refilled my coolant after I was done. 7)Below is a picture of the bottom view of the IACV. You now can EASILY remove the four screws connecting the IACV to the throttle body . In the picture below, I have already removed one of the screws. Once the four screws are removed the IACV and throttle body separate. Now you can clean both of them with your carb cleaner, brush, towels, cotton swabs etc…. Picture here is before I the cleaning with all the muck inside Pictures after I cleaned the IACV and throttle body This last picture is the post throttle body cleaning 8) Once you are done cleaning, just put back the throttle body/iacv the same way you took it off, and put everything back in reverse order. Ensure the gasket is in place. Also, ensure you put the washer back on the electric coil. Make sure you place hose A & B back and ensure the electric plugs are back in their original position. Once these things are in place, then it's all about putting the air filter/hoses back and you are good to go. If you have lost any coolant, make sure you refill it to a safe level. After completing this cleaning, my car starts up without any problem and idles as if I just purchased the car brand new. Replacing this at a dealership would have costed me $300-400 easily. Let me know if you have any questions. Cheers (Also, I tried to post these as separate replys, but the software combined all my replies into a single reply and did not keep them separated) *Edited the posting to have the pictures follow step by step in sequential order*
  2. 3 points
    I just purchased a NX200T. During the test drive I did not realize the headrest was a little too far forward. It is sharply angled toward the driver at the top. I am on the shorter side at 5' 6 1/2" tall and have good posture. When I sit in the driver seat with good posture my head is pushed forward about 1/2". I have to lean the seat back so I am slouching to avoid neck discomfort. I asked my dealer, service center and the U.S. corporate office for advice. There was nothing they could do. Very disappointing. The worst part is that the headrest is available outside the US with adjustable forward and aft movement at 4 intervals. I asked a few after market car parts dealers for advice. I was told it is a common problem. I was given many solutions (get another brand car's headrest, cushions, heat the metal and bend the rods, padding, etc.). Some ideas were unsafe and of course illegal I thought. For now I put some 2" cushioning in the seat to bring the rest of the seat inline with the headrest. It is better but not quite there and makes my A/C venting fairly useless, & is a little dorky. After just having paid about 50K for the fully loaded car I want a professional solution to improve the headrest. So far I have not solved it. I am curious if anyone else has had this issue and solved it? Any advice is appreciated. I am 95% happy with the car/SUV and am looking for that last 5% of comfort/fit.
  3. 3 points
    I made the DIY because I couldn't find one specifically for the RX330. Lexus also apparently think no RX330 owner would ever change their own oil because they don't tell you how to locate the oil dilter and drain plug in the owner's manual. I hope others find this useful. Please comment. I have a 2004 RX330 and after 23,000 miles, I've decided I'm going to do minor maintenance myself. You'll need: - 5qts of 5w-30 oil - oil filter (see info below) - drain plug gasket (see info below) - 10mm socket wrench - 14mm socket wrench - oil catch container - oil filter wrench (I used the nylon strap which seems pretty versitile) - either jack stands or ramps - funnel - rags to soak up dripping oil Part numbers: Lexus parts: 90430-12031 - Gasket Oil Drain Plug 90915-YZZD1-01 - Oil Filter - 6 Cylinder Toyota equivalent: 904-3012028 or 3012031 drain plug gasket $1.04 089-2202011 oil filter $4.99 1) Jack up the front of your car on stands or use ramps. The RX330 weighs 3850 lbs so make sure your ramps/stands can handle it. You might be able to get away without raising it if you slide on the floor, but it's tight. 2) Pop your hood and unscrew off the oil cap. I stuck a yellow funnel in mine. Notice the yellow dip stick on the left. 3) Lexus put some cosmetic plastic panels to make the "less car savy" believe the car is a magic transportation pod with no ugly mechanical internals. You'll need to remove two of them to access the filter and drain plug. The orange highlight is the panel that hides the filter, and the purple arrow shows where the panel that hides the drain plug is. 4) Get under the car to look for the drain plug panel (purple arrow in above picture). The panel will look like this. Remove all the 10mm bolts. 5) With the panel removed, the drain plug is revealed. Get a 14mm socket wrench and loosen the bolt. Position your oil catch container and remove the bolt. Lexus engineers did good.. they designed the bolt angle so the oil shoots down instead of to the side. Very nice. Remove the drain plug bolt AND its gasket. If the gasket is not on the bolt, it's probably still stuck to the oil pan. Remove the gasket and discard. 6) As the oil is draining, work on removing the panel to the oil filter (orange). Remove all the 10mm bolts (red arrows). 7) There are two plastic clips (green arrows) also holding this panel on. Using a flathead screwdriver, carefully pry up the center part of the clip just a little. This will loosen the clip and the whole clip can be pulled out. 8) Pull off the panel. The other panels will be overlapped over it, but they flex enough to allow you to remove it. This is what it looks like without the panel. 9) After the oil is done draining, put the new gasket on the bolt and replace the bolt. Tighten the bolt for a good seal but don't over tighten. I don't know the official torque yet. Wipe up the oily bolt. UPDATE: I got the Lexus service info... Torque the drain plug to 33ft-lbs (45Nm, 459 kgf-cm) 10) With the panel off, you can now see the oil filter (orange) and a nice gift from the Lexus engineers: an oil catch (green). Loosen the filter, and residual oil will drip out. The oil catch will guide the dripping oil out the oilpan/drainplug panel so position your oil catch below the catch. 11) On the new filter, dab a layer of fresh oil on the O-ring (the rubber ring around the outer lip of the open end of the filter). Align the threads of the new filter and spin it by hand onto the engine where the old filter was. When it makes contact, tighten by hand another 3/4 turn. Don't over tighten. 12) Wipe up oil drips. For me, even though the catch was there, some oil still dripped all over the exhaust pipe and panels. Wipe this up. 13) Fill the engine with 5w-30 oil, 5 qts. A funnel is helpful here. 14) Replace oil cap. 15) Replace both plastic panels. 16) Shut hood and drive around the block. Park the car on level ground and wait 15 minutes. Check for leaks and oil level. I hope this is helpful to someone. ...
  4. 3 points
    Here are a couple of tips I have picked up regarding maximizing fuel efficiency 1. Replace the spark plugs if you have not already, I prefer NGK Iridium plugs 2. Look for Cooper CS5 Grand Touring/Ultimate Touring tires, they are excellent for these cars 3. Use OVERDRIVE on the highway or at speeds in excess of 60 MPH (most say 40-50 MPH, but in my car I have observed minimal difference at those speeds). Note that you can use Overdrive at all speeds and it will keep the RPM's down but from what I have learned at slower speeds this translates to negligible fuel economy gains. 4. Set your ECT mode to NORMAL and not PWR 5. Keep the RPM's as low as possible aka don't floor it 6. Make sure your wheels are balanced and aligned properly and that your tires are also correctly inflated. 7. Mythbusters proved this, KEEP YOUR CAR CLEAN, it does SLIGHTLY affect gas mileage for the positive. 8. Turn off your A/C system if you want, it does affect gas mileage slightly, but its also a comfort, not really necessary unless you want to maximize fuel economy. 9. In reference to replacing the spark plugs, you may also want to consider replacing the ignition coil, distributor cap & rotor, and plug wires if they have not been replaced in quite some time as they can lose spark and cause poor performance, this would be within a general tune-up. 10. Replace the fuel filter, this is commonly missed on every car, and they get NASTY, unclean fuel = bad performance. Also consider getting a professional fuel service done on your car, this can help too, especially if it has not been done in some time.
  5. 3 points
    Folks, and Forum Admin, Please make a separate section on the Forum for 2016 RX models. THese have had major changes since 2015. The engine has been tweaked, there are scores of safety improvements and the look is way different. I am sure the issues will be different as well. So please rename the 2010-Present section to say 2010-2015 and keep it separate from 2016 onwards. Thanks.
  6. 3 points
    I can answer that. Those zany Brits particularly like "mark" designations: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mark_(designation Maybe it is a longing for Jaguar sedan series names. In the UK, the model year ranges of the LS400 are referenced thusly: Series 1, Mark 1 = 1990-1992 Series 1, Mark 2 = 1993-1994 Series 2, Mark 3 = 1995-1997 Series 2, Mark 4 = 1998-2000
  7. 3 points
    Replaced the Y pipe. Almost one month and no more problems.
  8. 3 points
    This was requested by a member in another thread. Another member responded that this would be difficult to do because everyone uses different products and he is right. But in all honesty there really is a set sequence of steps that are done when you detail properly. There is some variance in product usage, but not in the technique. First of all I'm going to mention several different possibilities of products used for each step. You'll notice that most of these products are professional grade and probably will have to be ordered online. That is because in my experience the consumer products are just that, designed for consumers who don't know or care about having the best finish possible. Professional grade products give the experienced hobbyist and professional detailer greater control over what is being done with the paint. Here are the ESSENTIALS you will NEED these to get started. -Several Microfiber towels, I say 6, 3 small 3 big. I reccomend them from our site www.lexuscarcare.com or www.pakshak.com. MF will be mush less prone to scratch than cotton. -Several 100% cotton bath towels, 3 or so. These will be used folded up to work in swirl removers and polish because they have more "bite" than MF. MF will be used for removal. -Several foam and MF applicators, you can get these where you get the towels. -Eagle one Tire Swipes for spplying dressing to tires -A semi stiff brush for tires and wheel wells -2 nice 5 gallon buckets -Some sort of paint cleaner like Meguiars #9, #82 Swirl Free Polish, 1Z Paint Polishes (which work very well by hand) -Some sort of polish like Meguiars #7, P21S Gloss Enhancing Paintwork Cleanser, #81 Hand Polish from Meguiars. -Some sort of wax. We're following a carnuaba/hybrid system here as thats whats best to use if you're only working by hand. So something like Meguiars #26 Tech Wax paste, P21S, or Meguiars NXT, Poorboys EX or EX-P, Blackfire woul\d work well -Glass cleaner- I reccomend Eagle One's 20/20. -An all purpose cleaner like 1Z Cockpit Premium for the interior plastic and carpeting with a nice soft brush. -Woolite and water dilluted 5:1 for leather -A good tire dressing for the tires and the wheel wells after they are washed. Things that would be NICE: -A Porter Cable dual action polisher with 2 cutting pads, 2 polishing pads, and 1 finishing pad. Its tempting to buy a cheaper buffer from Sears or Pepboys or something but trust me when I tell you, if you want the best and safest results the PC is worth the investment. Cheap buffers (Waxxpro, Craftsman) have weak motors that bog down and cumbersome bonnet type systems that either remove too much or not enough paint. If you're gonna spend the bucks anyways, spend twice as much and get the right tool for the job. -A higher cut compound for real swirl removal with the PC like Meguiars #83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish, Poorboys SSR2, Menzerna Intensive Polish -A Bissel Little Green Clean Machine for cleaning carpeting -Plexus plastic polish for all clear plastic -Clay (ClayMagic or Mothers) First clean the interior. Spray the all purpose cleaner on all plastic parts, agitate with the soft brush and wipe clean, use the woolite on the seats and wipe off with a damp towel. Vacuum the carpets well and spray the cleaner and agitate of needed. Pay attention to the nooks and crannys! Always do the interior first so you dont get dust on clean paint. Now, nextthing to do is wash with a good carwash using a good Microfiber, Chenile or Lanswool mitt. Use two buckets, one with soapy water and one with clean for rinsing the mitt after each pass. Wash in straight lines only, never touch the paint in circles. Wash from the top down then do the wheels last as that is where the most grime is, you don't want to drag that up onto the paint. If its hot rinse each panel after washing it. Dont forget to scrub the wheel wells! Next if you have the clay, clay now. Resoap each panel, clay, rinse until the whole car and the windows are done. Now dry the car using your MF towels, use two towels again in straight lines until the car is dry. Now, dress the wheel wells by spraying the protectant up inside them, then spray the protectant on the tire swipe and do the tires. I always do this before the next steps so it doesn't leave overspray on the car. Now its time to start detailing! If you have moderate to heavy swirls and you have the PC start with it, the DACP and a cutting pad, only work 2'x2' sections at a time. Don't use too much DACP, 3-4 dime sized drops a panel is plenty. Make each section look its best before moving on. Use the PC at high speed (5 or 6) and use random overlapping strokes with moderate pressure until the product almost dissapears. The swirls will come out it just may take time. This stage could take hours so be ready for that but the results are worth it. Work your way around the car, when it stops working as well swap out the pad for a clean cutting pad thats why you have two. If the swirls aren't bad use DACP with a polishing pad instead in the same way. If working by hand fold up one of the terry towels into 8ths, apply the #9 or #82 and work into the paint using moderate pressure. Again work 2x2 sections until almost clean and make each section look its best before moving on. This will not remove all swirls but thats left to later steps to hide. If you used the DACP and a cutting pad then you need to go around with DACP and #9 or #82 and a polishing pad afterwards as DACP and a cutting pad will leave micromarring behind. Next, polishing! If you have the buffer use a clean polishing pad and your polish of choice, use it like the DACP but you don't have to work it as long. If by hand same deal, fold up a terry towel and go to town. Now, stand back and admire the work. The paint should be perfect now, no swirls, smooth as glass, good proper color. This is where you look for areas of problems and do them again until it looks right. Now comes the waxing! You can wax by hand or by PC with the finishing pad. Use straight lines and put down a thin coat. Wait depending on the instructions on the wax then buff off IN STRAIGHT lines with an MF towel. Layer and add coats as you see fit. Don't forget to wax the wheels. Next is windows. Get your 20/20 and some paper towels, and newspaper. Spray the 20/20 on the paper towel until its soaked, then scrub it into the window. Next, wipe clean with the newspaper, inside and out all the way around. You can now wax the windows if you'd like but its not neccisary. Now thats it, you're done, sit back and admire your work. Watch for missed patches of wax and wax stuck in creases and crevices. Congratulations!
  9. 3 points
    okay guys, I am going to give you a very constructive advice on how to fix this problem.first remove the cluster and if you do not know how go to lexls.com and follow the instructions.then remove the face cover .first grap the tach needle gently and pull untill you hear a pop,again be gentle and do not ge scared.once you hear the pop move the needle clockwise untill it pops again then gently release it.now move the needle slowly counterclock till you sit it over the zero an on the dot and make sure that it sits right on the zero.to check your work move it gently say to the mark 3 then let go it should snap right back to zero,once you have accomplished this ,you are rock & roll baby.the same thing goes for speedometer.back light is not working change cap 212,after making sure your cathodes are okay meaning the bulbs.if not you can get them at a very good price from plano lexus,they are awsome as far as price goes.gas guage slow change cap 142.while you are at it change any bad or weak bulbs ,be the warning ones or the indicator ones such as shifter position.by the way guys the cluster lexus has on the first gen is the 1992,because the psb are so robust,where the 1993 and 1994 are made a little bit on the cheapy side.this job should take about an hour if you how to handle things.good luck and let me know. please make a donation to lexls.com,this guy is great.may god bless his soul.
  10. 2 points
    I put together this to help anyone trying to do this on their own. I just got done replacing my left rear bearing assembly on my 2004 RX330. I make the assumption if you are doing this you can at least take off your tire, caliper and rotor. I am not a mechanic by trade, but can do many of my own repairs. Some of the names of the parts I refer to may not be exact, but I will describe them as best as I can. I had some tips on this from my buddy, who is a former Lexus master mechanic. So props to Ron for the help! Some tools I would recommend having before you start: 1. 32mm 12 point deep well socket 2. Ball peen hammer 3. Large heavy hammer, such as a 3lb steel mallet. 4. A small chisel, strong flathead screwdriver or metal starter punch. 5. Hex head 8mm -- 1 25 x 50 mm bolt. Here is the part I am replacing. The specific one I purchased was the Koyo W0133-1890398, which is an OEM part. I would recommend getting OEM parts if you can afford the cost difference. Update: For all who have asked, the vehicle used in this tutorial is AWD (All Wheel Drive). http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2004/lexus/rx330/driveshaft_-ar-_axle/wheel_hub_assembly.html First, take off the tire. Remove the two bolts holding down the brake pads to the caliper. Next, remove the two bolts holding the caliper to the rotor. Now pull off and remove the rotor. If the rotor won't budge and you can't pull it off, you can screw the hex head 8mm -- 1 25 x 50 mm bolt into the front of the rotor in one of the the two holes pictured below. As you screw it in, the rotor will push against the assembly pushing off the rotor. Once the rotor is off, you will see the emergency brake with the hub assembly in the center. You will see a groove in the center of the spindle that is held down by a 12 point nut. The edge of the nut will be slightly bent down into the groove to prevent it from spinning. Using the chisel, screwdriver or punch, you will need to bend this back up so the metal is even with the circular shape of the spindle nut so that it can be unscrewed. Be careful here because you can mess up the threading on the spindle if you don't bend it back well enough. Once you have successfully bent the spindle nut back to the correct shape, stop. Next, remove the center cap on the tire and place the tire back on the hub. Firmly tighten the tire directly to the assembly with 3 or 4 lugnuts, but you won't need it to be completely tightened down. Lower the vehicle down to the ground so that there is only enough weight to prevent the tire from spinning. Do not completely lower the vehicle down. Alternately, you can place a pipe or rod in between the lugnuts and prop it against the wheel well or ground. Basically, you will need to prevent the assembly from spinning in order to break loose and remove the spindle nut. Using the 32 mm 12 point deep well socket, remove the spindle nut. You can place a pipe on the end of the ratchet to achieve more leverage to break the nut free. Once, you have broken the nut free and removed it, raise the vehicle back up, secure it and remove the tire. Slowly turn the assembly so that the holes in the front match up with the bolts securing it to the backing plate. You will have to do one bolt at a time and remove all four bolts. There is no need to remove or do anything to the emergency brake. Once all four bolts are removed, locate the divet on the end of the spindle. Center the rounded end of the ball peen hammer against the divet and using a heavy hammer, give it a few good hard whacks. You will definitely need a hammer with some weight, I used a 3 lb steel mallet. Do not simply use a hammer to hit the spindle directly. Using the round end of the hammer against the divet distributes the strikes evenly down the spindle. You will risk damaging the threading if you start beating at it with a hammer directly. You will start to see the assembly move forward about an inch or two. One of two things will happen here. Either the assembly will break free of the backing plate, which you will simply need to hit it up, down, left and right to slowly knock it loose and out. Or as in my case, the backing plate will separate from from the axle. You are almost there! Remove the backing plate from the spindle and prop one side of it against the ledge of the axle. Hold the other side of the plate with your hand. As long as you have the one end against the ledge of the axle, holding it with your hand will be more the enough to brace it. When I tried to prop the other side of the plate against my tire, it started to slightly bent the backing plate. Give the edges of the bearing a few good whacks with heavy hammer and the assembly will drop to the floor. Now just put everything back together in reverse! Last but not least, don't forget the bend the metal of the spindle nut back down into the groove once you tighten it back down.
  11. 2 points
    The general rule is that if a repair or repairs within a short period of time are equal to or greater than 50% of the value of the car, then it may be time to buy a replacement vehicle.
  12. 2 points
    It could be a good opportunity if you really want an LS 500 and especially if you plan to keep it a long time. You might be able to negotiate a even lower price based on the vehicle's history. I read recently that there are still a lot of unsold new 2018 LS 500's so the market for them is apparently very soft. Other than its run-flat tires and no spare tire, my main problem with the LS 500 is the shrinking interior which now has a volume within a tenth of a cubic foot of the space of a 2019 Toyota Camry with its optional moonroof. The Camry we rented 6 weeks ago was actually roomier than an LS 500 since the rental Camry didn't have a moonroof. Of course, Toyota/Lexus is too ashamed of it to publish interior volume dimensions for the LS 500 so it's necessary to go elsewhere to find them: https://cars.usnews.com/cars-trucks/lexus/ls/2018/specs/ls-awd-398085 Lexus LS 500 - Passenger Volume (cu. ft.): 99.4 Toyota Camry (with moonroof) - 99.3 cu. ft. per https://www.toyota.com/content/ebrochure/2019/camry_ebrochure.pdf I know the luxury sedan market has shrunk due to the flight to SUV's but I never expected the Lexus LS interior to shrink.
  13. 2 points
    Trevor, Thanks for the info. You were correct, I had not connected the temp sender wire. It is a bugger of a thing to locate and even more difficult to fit the connector when the entire loom is in situ. The sender unit is tucked in behind the plastic spark plug channel. Done now, so everything is fine. Thanks again, Alan.
  14. 2 points
    Hi Nathan. I apologize for not connecting with you sooner. I am always amazed at the depth of friendship and caring that can be built with someone you have never met nor never knew what they looked like. The LOC is a place where those who enjoy their hobby can find others who like swapping stories with like minded friends. Landar was a great part of the LOC and was a great source of Lexus info and technical help. Thank you for letting us share your journey. Paul
  15. 2 points
    Incredible shots Steve!!. Looks like a wonderful trip.
  16. 2 points
    Hey guys i made a small video on how to replace the plastic coolant tees that get brittle with age and can crack / leak / break / leave you stranded. Its a fairly straight forward process, everything is covered in the video from tools to parts. If you have any questions let me know. Parts needed for this job: (1) Gallon of coolant - PN# 00272-1LLAC-01 (2) Coolant Tees - PN# 87248-60460 Optional, highly recommended parts for this job: (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A220 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A210 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A190 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A180 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A800 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 99556-20155
  17. 2 points
    I have NO connection with this automobile.... just showing others JDM RHD TOYOTA CELSIOR VIP SEDAN V8 LS400 JAPAN IMPORT TEXAS TITLE look: https://easttexas.craigslist.org/cto/6180839156.html
  18. 2 points
    I've had ongoing issues with the driver's side window going up when it's supposed to go down, down when it's supposed to go up, or not moving. I removed the power window switch (there's a clip under where the lock/unlock button is), unplugged the assembly and took it apart. The four small Phillips head screws holding the light-covered cover are the ones you remove. Then, you'll see the circuit board. There are two relays on that board. The larger one is in the driver's side window circuit. It is marked CR2-12v. That's the culprit. After much searching, I found it on line. I replaced the one in my 170,000 mile '01 RX-300, reassembled everything and the window now works perfectly. Finally!! BTW, I bought two relays if anyone needs one and can't find it on their own. What a PITA that window has been...
  19. 2 points
    Many vehicles with keyless entry / push button start can be entered by thieves using a cheap amplifier that can be purchased on the Internet. If you park your vehicle near your fob (e.g. in your driveway), one of these amplifiers can be used to amplify the fobs signal - even when the fob is in your pocket - to open the vehicle door. I recently read about thieves in the city where I live capturing/recording signals from fobs as owners exit their vehicles in shopping centers and then opening vehicle doors with the recorded signals after the owners had disappeared from sight. I don't know if car manufacturers are doing anything about this problem. Google "Faraday Cage" for information on how to protect a key fob so its signal can not be captured by thieves.
  20. 2 points
    I live in Long Island, NY and I just went to an area where there were a lot of collision shop and one shop gave me a great price and my truck looks like her old self again. She's no longer the ugly duckling. lol, I got sick of looking at the hood and the roof peeling, the GX470 looked like she had eczema.
  21. 2 points
    My car idles at around 400 in drive. As these cars age most of them idles around 400-500 in drive. I would not worry about it. Once when my car was idling around 200 It shutdown several times in heavy traffic. First thing I did was clean the MAF which improved the idle immensely.
  22. 2 points
    shame that nobody answers a lot of these questions on here. From what I have researched and talking to Lexus certified mechanics, it appears that the eco mode has the best effect when used during stop and go traffic. The primary changes made by the system is to change the throttle profile by essentially slowing down acceleration, shifting sooner (lower rpms), and scaling back devices that cause high energy drain from the motor (IE: air conditioner compressor and internal fan speed for climate control). Because of these functions, the effect of "eco mode" would be minimal when at highway speeds or maintaining a fairly constant speed. Normal mode is quite efficient and the unique ability of this motor to switch between the traditional Atkinson cycle and the Otto cycle will yield fairly good gas mileage even with the turbo. From my experience and what I have read online most owners that track their mpg manually notice less than a 1-2 mpg gain on long trips when this mode is enabled while highway driving.
  23. 2 points
    I'll have to say quality. Of course my car is beautiful and a hoot to drive, but it is nice to know I can always depend on it. She's never let me down.
  24. 2 points
    Well, by coincidence or not, my Mom was in town for a week and loves to grab a tailgate and manhandle it, likely a leftover habit from the good old days and the '86 Plymouth Voyageur we had growing up.... then the power feature on the tailgate stops working. Every fix I came across is basically: My tailgate is broken - Ok, push the button in the glovebox and try again. - Oh that worked, thanks. To be clear about the symptoms, the motor that grabs the door and pulls it tight still worked, but the one that raises and lowers the door was not doing anything. I'd get the 3 beeps sometimes, but that's it. So I decided to dig in. Here's what I'm looking at. Problem must be in here. So you can see I pulled down the headliner. I just got a finger in there by the actuator arm and pulled at it. It's held up towards the right side by a couple of these. Now when I looked in the mechanism, I saw that the arm that the motor drives had popped off of the pin for the door side arm. Looking at this pic you can just barely see that there's a small bushing inside the end of the motor side arm. That was actually still sitting on the pin when I first got in there but I took it and pressed it into the motor side arm with a pair of pliers. Also note that the pin has a small groove at the top, you'll need to get a C-clip in there. For reference, the C-clip I used. I had to push the motor arm back into the mechanism a bit to make room to get it back onto the pin, then pull the door down a bit and massage it to get the arm on there. Then pop the C-clip on. Surprisingly, I managed to get it on first try. Lubed up the struts on the tailgate for easy operation, opened and closed it a couple times manually ( I read somewhere this resets the system. Who knows. ) And viola! It works just like it's supposed to. This is the motor arm on the pin. Tools I used: I had to use the coathanger to pull the motor arm out from the very back of the mechanism when I started, it had pulled all the way in as if to close the door. Pliers to seat the bushing in the arm, and to seat the arm on the pin. Screwdriver to push the C-clip on. I hope this helps someone. I was motivated by fear of dealership service departments.
  25. 2 points
    I lost my in house mechanic (Jon) due to health problems, but allowed Candrell Car Care to renew my LS at 200,000, by replaceing my Timing Belt/Water Pump, seals, bearings, engine & tranny mounts, plugs seals & VC gaskets and they done a super good job for me.. I have known Bob for about 30+ years, (being in the same business my self) and I already trusted him, but did not know his knowledge of Lexus'es... they are in Carrollton on Midway rd, so if you are in the DFW area, you can trust them.. thanks, billy d powell ..
  26. 2 points
    Just posted this the other day, and now I can't find it, so sorry for the repeat if it is posted elsewhere. I have a 2011 ES350 with 215/55 17 tires. Those are the only size tires the car can come with. I would like to go with a bigger tire to improve handling. To get the same diameter, I would need a 235/50 17, or a 235/45 18. Please let me know if going from the 215 stock tire to the 235 will fit properly on the ES350. I wouldn't think it would be a problem, but I am not sure sonce the factory does not offer a tire size option. Thanks all.
  27. 2 points
  28. 2 points
    I "think" that the VAIS SL3B will provide A2DP audio streaming on your 2005 SC430: http://www.vaistech.com/site/sl3b.php There may be other companies that have products that will work but VAIS has been around time and their products were commonly offered by Lexus dealers before Lexus vehicles came with similar interfaces from the factory. I suggest that you contact VAIS and inquire before you buy. They may have other products that would be more appropriate for you.
  29. 2 points
    Have you checked with any neighbors or neighboring businesses that might have some survelience cameras? I'd want to fry that jerk.
  30. 2 points
    Hey, anyone that has 20's or anything larger than stock, could you tell me how your ride quality is ? before and after ? how big of a difference etc etc I have a 2004 ES330 , and am thinking of getting 20's , but might just go with 18's or something more moderate if the ride quality suffers too much... any personal experience would help thanks !!
  31. 2 points
    www.snitruth.org I believe in God
  32. 2 points
    Seriously the technicians at the Lexus dealership can't sit their butts down in your car and see if the heaters work?
  33. 2 points
    Hi Jeff and welcome to the Club. This particular problem is not unheard of but very few members are unable to find a solution. Personally, in a mild way, I'm not satisfied with the head rest adjustment just like you. Did Lexus Customer Service say they could get the other head rest package from Japan and retro fit it to your current installation. Try that idea if you haven't already. Also, as you drive around you'll find that most foreign cars have the same type headrest.
  34. 2 points
    Lexus LS400 '93 and '94 have a problem with the instrument cluster lights (dash lights). Many many people have this problem. The dash lights won't come on for a while, then they will flicker and finally come on. This is more evident in cold weather. This problem gets worse over a period of weeks or months until they will refuse to come on at all. When the light are off, the fuel gauge points to empty as well. The problem, I found, is in the power supply circuit boards. They are located behind the instrument cluster. I have compiled some detailed instructions on how to remove those boards. If you want a copy of those instructions, just Email (PM) me. I'll Email them to you, no charge. I would attach them here, but they are larger than the 102.4KB limit on this board. My car did that. '93 LS400. The Lexus dealer wanted $1400 to repair it. I repaired mine myself, I'm an electronics engineer and I can help you repair yours too! Email me or PM me Jim Walker jimlwalker@sbcglobal.net -------------------- I have the Repair for your '93 or '94 LS400 flickering INSTRUMENT LIGHTS! I'm an electronics engineer and have found the solution to this common problem on my own car! I want to help you with your problem too.
  35. 2 points
  36. 2 points
    Thought I'd share this b/c I looked everywhere for this info, and finally found it! The cabin air filter for 1995 is on the driver side counsel near the gas pedal! You'll need to pull carpet back to access. Appearantly many 1995s did not come with filter, either. I found an empty slot. Ordered filter thinking I'd be replacing old one. So after spraying all the gunk and leaf fragments off the A/C coil, I now have a 'fancy' charcoal filter for the cabin. Should help with my allergies. Posted in case someone else is wondering about 95 cabin filters...
  37. 2 points
    Thmsabear, yes the universal u-joints do work. I replaced both on our 2002 RX300 about 1 1/2 years ago. Stopped the vibration. We have put about 15K miles on them since the repair. I purchased the u-joints from a company out of Rockford, IL. In our case, the vibration started after the timing belt and water pump was changed. The engine had to be raised to reach some of the bolts. This caused the problem with the u-joint. Don't waste your money on a new driveshaft. Lexus will tell you that you can't replace the u-joints, that they are staked-in. "Not True" Go to: rockforddriveline.com There is a You Tube video about staked in u-joints. Do a search for: "Staked-in u-joint replacement" posted by bootsnthejeep. Hope this helps, Bill
  38. 2 points
    Many 2010 RX 350s did not come with the trailer tow kit and I, as well as other owners, have had difficulty in finding the proper parts to route power to the existing trailer hitch connector (under the bumper). I finally found a solution and it entails purchasing part number PT219-48101-TC and installing it in the right rear quadrant of the vehicle. I have attached basic installation instructions with pictures for anyone that wishes to attempt to install the converter. Note the cost is a bit more at than the after market solutions available, but it does fit right in place and matches with existing connectors so no cutting of wires is required. The converter cost is around US$90 - US$115 . Good luck and be patient! Adding RX Tow Converter for trailer lights on FWD RX 350.pdf
  39. 2 points
    Hi Nate, welcome to the club.. do like Richard said and check out http://www.lexls.com/ and read up,
  40. 2 points
    You can get invaluable info at this link. http://www.lexls.com/ The above link is by far the most complete tutorial for the jobs that it does list. He deserves any donations he get. There is also a non-US guy that will sell you a download of the complete manual for about 7 bux. I found it on ebay I think. Anyway it came thru complete but lacks some indexing so you have to do a bit of searching for what you need. That guy's address is. fahad.victoria@gmail.com I think this may still be a valid addy. Drop me a line in mid Nov. if you have no luck, will be at my winter home then and have more info for you. Dikwag at gmail dot com R. Clikdik
  41. 2 points
    Hi Brian and welcome to the LOC. You've asked some good questions and have gotten some good answers. I'll try to add some more information for you to take into consideration. I have owned a 2005 ES330, a 2010 ES350, and now a 2013 ES350. All three have been truly great cars, yet each had it's unique qualities. All had and have an excellent ride. The 2013 has been tuned to provide more responsive handling but without sacrificing the Lexus ride and quite cabin. Now, is it as quite and smooth as the 2010 Es was? To me, it is. But to you, you have no referance point other than the ATS. So asking about the ride and quite of the Lexus is of no help because you never drove an older one. Reliability on all Lexus/Toyota products is excellent. Lexus has been the best selling luxury car or in the top three of the best selling luxury cars for the past 5 years. Reliabilaty is a big reason for that. I have never had better service or better technicians service my cars than my Lexus dealer. And in saying that I should tell you that my dealer also sells Cadillac and gives those customers the same high level of service. One of the diffrences with the 2013 ES is the change from a Camry based chasis to using the Toyota Avalon chasis. This frame is longer and more rigid and also gives more interior cabin room. Lexus offers the Mark Levinson premium sound system featuring 19 speakers surrounding the drivers cabin. I think the peak rrms is around 550 watts. (You should look that up) I'm pretty much a snob when it comes to sound systems. I've listened to the Bose system, and in fact I use some Bose products at home. However, the car Bose system does not provide the clarity and range that the Mark Levinson system does. One area where I think the Levinson system is a little weak is the low bass end. The Mark Levinson system comes packaged with the Lexus navigation unit. Back to the ride and road noise for a last remark. Tires make a tremendous difference in the ride and outside noise on any car. As an example, last December when I took deliverly of my 2013, i saw that it had come from the factory with Bridgestone tires. Over the last few years there have been many disscuscions about what tires were best on which cars. I have foud that Michlen Primacy MX4 are by far the best choice for a ES350. They give a smooth ride and oh so quite. So, I had the dealer take off the Bridgestones and put on the Michlens at no charge to me. I have not driven th ATS, and it sounds like a nice ride. But I think if you do some research you may find that the Cadillac product will not hold its value as well as a Lexus. Paul
  42. 2 points
    hi all i just bought a 2002 sc430 lexus & have the run flat tires, im not to happy with these tires & wondering what tires i should get & if there is a place on this car where i can store a spare donut tire, thanks in advance
  43. 2 points
  44. 2 points
    So you can educate your dealership when they tell you they can't duplicate your problem. I'm slowly downloading more of these as I get them, so keep checking back. 1. Air conditioning poor peformance - AC002_05.pdf 2. Air conditioning sensors inspection - AC005_04.pdf 3. Headlamp condensation - BO003_07.pdf 4. Front brake squeal - BR001_05.pdf 5. Brake acutator abnormal noise - BR003_07.pdf 6. Malfunction indicator lights after brake pad change - BR006_06.pdf 7. Retrieving diagnostic codes (unfortunately this is with the Lexus diagnostic equipment) - EG009_05.pdf 8. ISC learning procedure (this is a good one to be used after drained or disconnected battery) - EG010_05.pdf -this TSB mentions using the Lexus diagnostic equipment but look for my other post for directions for the ordinary mortal who doesn't have the Lexus scanner 9. Rocking feeling at 70mph - EG013_07.pdf 10. Power back door noise - EL013_07.pdf 11. Zero point calibration after wheel alignment - L_SB_0015_08.pdf 12. Tonneau cover latch rattle - NV001_07.pdf 13. Vehicle pull/drift to right improvement - ST003_05.pdf 14. Cylinder head cover oil baffle caution - L_SB_0021_08.pdf 15. Upper/Lower windshield tick noise - NV005_06.pdf 16. Instrument panel rattle - NV002_06.pdf 17. 5W20 oil recommendation - EG006_06.pdf 18. Front seat squeak noise - NV001_06.pdf 19. TPMS diagnostics etc. - PG001_07.pdf __________________________________________________________ The following are not TSBs, but good information to have. FRONT AND REAR BRAKE EXPLODED VIEW (from and RX330, but I believe RX400 is the same) front_brake_component.pdf rear_brake_component.pdf STEREO REMOVAL rx_stero_remove.pdf DEALER SELECTABLE OPTIONS (wish I knew why Lexus made it so only the dealer can adjust these) rx400h_customized_settings.pdf VOICE TEL and NAV COMMANDS (if you can get the stupid system to understand you) 2007_RX400h_Voice_Commands.pdf LexusVoiceNavwTel.pdf
  45. 2 points

    From the album: Project Nexus

    So here is the beginning of Project Nexus (Next Gen Lexus), Our 2006 Matador Red Metallic Lexus IS250 6 speed. Even by this point in May 2006 we had already started the mods. Car was color sanded and buffed by Riteway Paint and Body in Fountain Valley, Ca. then clearcoated again and machined buffed with and paint polish/sealer. that paint Custom-made DCR 3-Peice Wheels 20 x 8.5 Front and 20 x10.5 Rear with Toyo Proxies added (new TPMS sensors added to the rims) Red Chrome Outer Lips with Black Chrome Center Sections. B) Ings Lip Kit from Japan (took way tooooooo long to get) Metallic Red Tint from House of Tint in Tustin, Ca. (Only 3 Tickets so Far) Xetronic HID 12000K (Purple) H11 Headlight Conversion Xetronic HID 3000K (Blinding Yellow) H3 Foglight Conversion 5Zigen ProRacer Lugnuts and Mufflers added

    © © 2006, Serenity Sound Performance

  46. 2 points
    I know, it may be too late for, but have a look at this vid - maybe it will help you to defeat this navigation system's behavior:
  47. 2 points
    Well one of my license plate light bulbs burned out, easiest change on a LS. the info below might be of some help to someone. 1999 Lexus LS400 Car Light Bulb Socket Sizes Low Beam Headlight Bulb Size: 9006 High Beam Headlight Bulb Size: 9005 Parking Light Bulb Size: 2825 Front Turn Signal Light Bulb Size: 7440 Rear Turn Signal Light Bulb Size: 7440 Tail Light Bulb Size: 7443 Stop Light Bulb Size: 7443 High Mount Stop Light Bulb Size: 921 Fog/Driving Light Bulb Size: 9006 License Plate Light Bulb Size: 2825 Back Up Light Bulb Size: 7440 Front Side Marker Light Bulb Size: 2825 Rear Side Marker Light Bulb Size: 2825 Glove Box Light Bulb Size: 37 Step/Courtesy Light Bulb Size: 194 or 74 or DE3021 Trunk/Cargo Area Light Bulb Size: 194 Instrument-General Light Bulb Size: 194
  48. 2 points
    Okay, So I just finished my Left rear door. Took much longer than anticipated but I tried to make it as simple as possible and I'm sure I did. I attached the rod onto a circular positive terminal type of socket (it was small, not the type you use on cars). Then I attached that onto the thumb driven lock. It turned out fantastic, the longest part was mounting the damn actuator cause it was in a terrible place, but it came out fantastic. I think the way that I did is the easiest I've seen, well at least for the Rear door. I'd also like to give a special thanks to everyone ont his forum and the other lexus owners forum that helped me do this, and save a whole lot of money.
  49. 2 points
    the pdfs are posted on Page 19, thanks to mann777, It took me well over 90 minutes to read from start to end ( all the posts of this thread). So, I am including the pdfs here anyway if anyone reading random pages. I too have both Clunk issue and 55-75MPH vibration issue on my '07 GX470 with 54K miles on it(just bought pre-owned from a remote non-Lexus dealer), hoping mann777 posted TSBs will fix my issues. I will try to call the local Lexus dealer tomorrow and see if I can get them fixed. I hope mine are covered as the TSBs say 72K or 7Years(72 Months). and couple of questions about the vibration TSB, does it have to be under the floorboard because in the TSB in mentions under diagnostic procedure that," Confirm customer complaint of vibration/drone felt in the floorboard or seat between 55 -- 75 mph by test driving the vehicle and note the speed range in which the vibration/drone occurs." I am not quite sure if I feel under the floorboard but my steering vibrates/vobbles like anything between those speeds, I feel like the whole car is vibrating. I feel this vibration in my car is between 60-75MPH, does that mean I have both the problems mentioned in the TSB, i.e. 55-65MPH and 70-75MPH, ? and why is 65-70MPH not covered in the TSB? I think I have the issue between these speeds too I guess. is there any chance that they may deny as not being the floorboard and classifying as a different issue and try to rob me? Thanks in advance. CLUNK_TSB_2008.pdf Steering_Drive_Line_Vibration_issue_Feb_2008.pdf
  50. 2 points
    Folks TILT STEERING NOT OPERATING ON LS430 Just fixed mine tonight 02 LS430 Ultra. Tilt was inoperable and on lowest (and most inconvenient) setting. Took about 30 mins. 3 screws (1 bottom, 2 on front face of shroud that you must turn steering wheel 90 degrees each way to access) to remove shroud. Motor was stuck. Was making very quiet clicking noise when I tried the switch. On 02, the motor assembly is parallel and below the steering column shaft. 2 metric allen keys and the motor releases from the column in which the steering wheel can be now lifted up. This will allow the motor to be free to be manually spun and manipulated by hand to free up. There may be an E clip that is on the worm gear that may be very tight and jamming the motor. Once the motor is spun to free it's movement, you can disconnect the harness, spin the motor to get it free (gear may need to be lubricated), the motor can be repositioned in a manner to have the column tilted to the level desired. Once that's done, reassemble and enjoy. I snapped several photos that I'll included that will make it more easily to visualize. Studying it and determining the cause took about 1 hour. Once you know what you need to do, job should take appx 30 mins or less, assuming you have the correct tools and are mechanically inclined. This is the view from the left side of the column. Remove the gold colored hex head bolt which releases the harness. The black hex head screw to the lower right of that is the right motor captive screw to be removed. This is the view from the bottom. A black colored hex head cover screw which contains a small spring and guide has been removed. The worm gear (long straight expoosed screw like mechanism) is attached to the tilt motor. The E clip that was jamming the motor was located on the worm gear (motor is at the top of the photo, worm gear is attached to the shaft of the motor, E clip is located (removed in this photo) in the area just above where the gear threads begin. View from the right of the steering column. Black hex head screw in middle of photo is the right captive screw on the motor. Email or message me with questions. Best Rick



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