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  1. 5 points
    Hello Everyone, I know IACV has been a huge topic on the forum and I have found various pictures in the RX forum and ES forum on the idle air control valve (IACV) or as others call it the idle speed control valve (ISC). However, I have not found a "step by step" posting to date which definitively shows how to clean this thing so that my car stops giving me idling problems. Symptoms I have had included: - low and rough idling that would cause the car engine to start shaking after starting the car - this eventually got worse to the point that when I start my car, it would not idle unless I gave it gas - idling problems for me tended to occur more often after my engine was warm or had been sitting in the sun I hope these series of postings help you fellow LOC members out there. You've certainly helped me in the past so here's my two cents at this common problem. Additionally, the instructions I give are the way in which I have cleaned it myself. As you go about and attempt this, you may find better ways to do so. Please add and refine my instructions/terminology as needed. I am not a professional. I've only changed my oil, air filters, and conducted minor maintenance previously. The bottom line is that if you have the right tools, you should be able to do this. This discovery/ cleaning took me about 2 hours to do cause I ran into problems and there were major steps left out in previous postings that I’ve encountered read. The next time I do this, I believe I can get this done in about an hour or less. Tools Needed: 1) Tightly fitting Philips Screw Driver 2) Carb cleaner that is O2 sensor safe (I've seen CRC. I used Valvoline Carb Cleaner) 3) Locking Grip Pliers (definitely helped me remove the factory tight screws) 4) Small brush for cleaning 5) Towels for cleaning 6) Pliers (help removed brackets holding the hoses) 7) Latex gloves helps with limit the messiness. * I used the same gasket and did not replace it. No problems found. 1) Remove the hose that comes from the engine/motor that connects to the air intake hoses.( Hose is below in red – we’ll refer to this as Hose A) When you pull back the rubber hose covering, you will see that a metal bracket is holding the hose pretty tightly in place. Use the pliers to clasps the two metal pieces together to loosen the bracket and pull the hose loose. You can also do this by hand if it’s easier for you. 2) Upon removing the hose, you will want to remove the two air intake hoses. Loosen the three screws above in green and remove the hose. Below is a picture of the intake hoses removed. 3)After removing the intake hoses, I opened the lid to the air filter and moved this to the side of the car to create more working room. I believe there are two clips on the right holding the lid in place. Just pop the two clips and move the cover to the side. I also took out the air filter and temporarily moved this to the side. 4)After removing the intake hose, the throttle body/IACV/black electric coil is revealed. At this point, I removed the black electric wire from the black coil. Once the electric wire is removed you can remove the black coil from the IACV by removing the two screws. Note, the screws are factory tight so use a tight fitting screw driver to remove the screws. One of my screws was partially stripped from the dealership’s work, so I had to resort to my locking grip pliers which helped out tremendously. After removing the two screws, the black electric piece pops right off. When the black electrical coil is removed from the IACV, it exposes a small pencil sized metal stud. You will also notice a washer that sits on this stud. Don’t lose this washer. Take it and put it aside so it doesn’t fall off when you continue on in the next steps. 5)Additionally, I removed the hose coming out of the IACV. We’ll call this Hose B. This hose can be removed in the same manner by clamping the bracket and pulling the hose out. You will see that the hose is removed below. Below are pictures of before and after. 6)Here is where the fun begins. I initially attempted to remove the four screws attached to the IACV at this point, but found that after an hour, this would be nearly impossible to remove considering the location of the screws were in an extremely tight spot. The only way I would be able to remove the IACV is to remove right throttle body. Not as tough as it sounds. Three screws need to be removed to accomplish this. Again, be careful when removing the screws. Also you will see I removed another electric plug and I also cut a tie wrap. Once you complete these steps, the throttle body/ IACV comes out pretty easily. Note when you remove the throttle body, there will be one LAST hose connected to the IACV. Be careful when you remove this hose as radiator fluid may spill. Some of my fluid spilled out so I just refilled my coolant after I was done. 7)Below is a picture of the bottom view of the IACV. You now can EASILY remove the four screws connecting the IACV to the throttle body . In the picture below, I have already removed one of the screws. Once the four screws are removed the IACV and throttle body separate. Now you can clean both of them with your carb cleaner, brush, towels, cotton swabs etc…. Picture here is before I the cleaning with all the muck inside Pictures after I cleaned the IACV and throttle body This last picture is the post throttle body cleaning 8) Once you are done cleaning, just put back the throttle body/iacv the same way you took it off, and put everything back in reverse order. Ensure the gasket is in place. Also, ensure you put the washer back on the electric coil. Make sure you place hose A & B back and ensure the electric plugs are back in their original position. Once these things are in place, then it's all about putting the air filter/hoses back and you are good to go. If you have lost any coolant, make sure you refill it to a safe level. After completing this cleaning, my car starts up without any problem and idles as if I just purchased the car brand new. Replacing this at a dealership would have costed me $300-400 easily. Let me know if you have any questions. Cheers (Also, I tried to post these as separate replys, but the software combined all my replies into a single reply and did not keep them separated) *Edited the posting to have the pictures follow step by step in sequential order*
  2. 3 points
    I just purchased a NX200T. During the test drive I did not realize the headrest was a little too far forward. It is sharply angled toward the driver at the top. I am on the shorter side at 5' 6 1/2" tall and have good posture. When I sit in the driver seat with good posture my head is pushed forward about 1/2". I have to lean the seat back so I am slouching to avoid neck discomfort. I asked my dealer, service center and the U.S. corporate office for advice. There was nothing they could do. Very disappointing. The worst part is that the headrest is available outside the US with adjustable forward and aft movement at 4 intervals. I asked a few after market car parts dealers for advice. I was told it is a common problem. I was given many solutions (get another brand car's headrest, cushions, heat the metal and bend the rods, padding, etc.). Some ideas were unsafe and of course illegal I thought. For now I put some 2" cushioning in the seat to bring the rest of the seat inline with the headrest. It is better but not quite there and makes my A/C venting fairly useless, & is a little dorky. After just having paid about 50K for the fully loaded car I want a professional solution to improve the headrest. So far I have not solved it. I am curious if anyone else has had this issue and solved it? Any advice is appreciated. I am 95% happy with the car/SUV and am looking for that last 5% of comfort/fit.
  3. 3 points
    I made the DIY because I couldn't find one specifically for the RX330. Lexus also apparently think no RX330 owner would ever change their own oil because they don't tell you how to locate the oil dilter and drain plug in the owner's manual. I hope others find this useful. Please comment. I have a 2004 RX330 and after 23,000 miles, I've decided I'm going to do minor maintenance myself. You'll need: - 5qts of 5w-30 oil - oil filter (see info below) - drain plug gasket (see info below) - 10mm socket wrench - 14mm socket wrench - oil catch container - oil filter wrench (I used the nylon strap which seems pretty versitile) - either jack stands or ramps - funnel - rags to soak up dripping oil Part numbers: Lexus parts: 90430-12031 - Gasket Oil Drain Plug 90915-YZZD1-01 - Oil Filter - 6 Cylinder Toyota equivalent: 904-3012028 or 3012031 drain plug gasket $1.04 089-2202011 oil filter $4.99 1) Jack up the front of your car on stands or use ramps. The RX330 weighs 3850 lbs so make sure your ramps/stands can handle it. You might be able to get away without raising it if you slide on the floor, but it's tight. 2) Pop your hood and unscrew off the oil cap. I stuck a yellow funnel in mine. Notice the yellow dip stick on the left. 3) Lexus put some cosmetic plastic panels to make the "less car savy" believe the car is a magic transportation pod with no ugly mechanical internals. You'll need to remove two of them to access the filter and drain plug. The orange highlight is the panel that hides the filter, and the purple arrow shows where the panel that hides the drain plug is. 4) Get under the car to look for the drain plug panel (purple arrow in above picture). The panel will look like this. Remove all the 10mm bolts. 5) With the panel removed, the drain plug is revealed. Get a 14mm socket wrench and loosen the bolt. Position your oil catch container and remove the bolt. Lexus engineers did good.. they designed the bolt angle so the oil shoots down instead of to the side. Very nice. Remove the drain plug bolt AND its gasket. If the gasket is not on the bolt, it's probably still stuck to the oil pan. Remove the gasket and discard. 6) As the oil is draining, work on removing the panel to the oil filter (orange). Remove all the 10mm bolts (red arrows). 7) There are two plastic clips (green arrows) also holding this panel on. Using a flathead screwdriver, carefully pry up the center part of the clip just a little. This will loosen the clip and the whole clip can be pulled out. 8) Pull off the panel. The other panels will be overlapped over it, but they flex enough to allow you to remove it. This is what it looks like without the panel. 9) After the oil is done draining, put the new gasket on the bolt and replace the bolt. Tighten the bolt for a good seal but don't over tighten. I don't know the official torque yet. Wipe up the oily bolt. UPDATE: I got the Lexus service info... Torque the drain plug to 33ft-lbs (45Nm, 459 kgf-cm) 10) With the panel off, you can now see the oil filter (orange) and a nice gift from the Lexus engineers: an oil catch (green). Loosen the filter, and residual oil will drip out. The oil catch will guide the dripping oil out the oilpan/drainplug panel so position your oil catch below the catch. 11) On the new filter, dab a layer of fresh oil on the O-ring (the rubber ring around the outer lip of the open end of the filter). Align the threads of the new filter and spin it by hand onto the engine where the old filter was. When it makes contact, tighten by hand another 3/4 turn. Don't over tighten. 12) Wipe up oil drips. For me, even though the catch was there, some oil still dripped all over the exhaust pipe and panels. Wipe this up. 13) Fill the engine with 5w-30 oil, 5 qts. A funnel is helpful here. 14) Replace oil cap. 15) Replace both plastic panels. 16) Shut hood and drive around the block. Park the car on level ground and wait 15 minutes. Check for leaks and oil level. I hope this is helpful to someone. ...
  4. 3 points
    Here are a couple of tips I have picked up regarding maximizing fuel efficiency 1. Replace the spark plugs if you have not already, I prefer NGK Iridium plugs 2. Look for Cooper CS5 Grand Touring/Ultimate Touring tires, they are excellent for these cars 3. Use OVERDRIVE on the highway or at speeds in excess of 60 MPH (most say 40-50 MPH, but in my car I have observed minimal difference at those speeds). Note that you can use Overdrive at all speeds and it will keep the RPM's down but from what I have learned at slower speeds this translates to negligible fuel economy gains. 4. Set your ECT mode to NORMAL and not PWR 5. Keep the RPM's as low as possible aka don't floor it 6. Make sure your wheels are balanced and aligned properly and that your tires are also correctly inflated. 7. Mythbusters proved this, KEEP YOUR CAR CLEAN, it does SLIGHTLY affect gas mileage for the positive. 8. Turn off your A/C system if you want, it does affect gas mileage slightly, but its also a comfort, not really necessary unless you want to maximize fuel economy. 9. In reference to replacing the spark plugs, you may also want to consider replacing the ignition coil, distributor cap & rotor, and plug wires if they have not been replaced in quite some time as they can lose spark and cause poor performance, this would be within a general tune-up. 10. Replace the fuel filter, this is commonly missed on every car, and they get NASTY, unclean fuel = bad performance. Also consider getting a professional fuel service done on your car, this can help too, especially if it has not been done in some time.
  5. 3 points
    Folks, and Forum Admin, Please make a separate section on the Forum for 2016 RX models. THese have had major changes since 2015. The engine has been tweaked, there are scores of safety improvements and the look is way different. I am sure the issues will be different as well. So please rename the 2010-Present section to say 2010-2015 and keep it separate from 2016 onwards. Thanks.
  6. 3 points
    I can answer that. Those zany Brits particularly like "mark" designations: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mark_(designation Maybe it is a longing for Jaguar sedan series names. In the UK, the model year ranges of the LS400 are referenced thusly: Series 1, Mark 1 = 1990-1992 Series 1, Mark 2 = 1993-1994 Series 2, Mark 3 = 1995-1997 Series 2, Mark 4 = 1998-2000
  7. 3 points
    Replaced the Y pipe. Almost one month and no more problems.
  8. 3 points
    This was requested by a member in another thread. Another member responded that this would be difficult to do because everyone uses different products and he is right. But in all honesty there really is a set sequence of steps that are done when you detail properly. There is some variance in product usage, but not in the technique. First of all I'm going to mention several different possibilities of products used for each step. You'll notice that most of these products are professional grade and probably will have to be ordered online. That is because in my experience the consumer products are just that, designed for consumers who don't know or care about having the best finish possible. Professional grade products give the experienced hobbyist and professional detailer greater control over what is being done with the paint. Here are the ESSENTIALS you will NEED these to get started. -Several Microfiber towels, I say 6, 3 small 3 big. I reccomend them from our site www.lexuscarcare.com or www.pakshak.com. MF will be mush less prone to scratch than cotton. -Several 100% cotton bath towels, 3 or so. These will be used folded up to work in swirl removers and polish because they have more "bite" than MF. MF will be used for removal. -Several foam and MF applicators, you can get these where you get the towels. -Eagle one Tire Swipes for spplying dressing to tires -A semi stiff brush for tires and wheel wells -2 nice 5 gallon buckets -Some sort of paint cleaner like Meguiars #9, #82 Swirl Free Polish, 1Z Paint Polishes (which work very well by hand) -Some sort of polish like Meguiars #7, P21S Gloss Enhancing Paintwork Cleanser, #81 Hand Polish from Meguiars. -Some sort of wax. We're following a carnuaba/hybrid system here as thats whats best to use if you're only working by hand. So something like Meguiars #26 Tech Wax paste, P21S, or Meguiars NXT, Poorboys EX or EX-P, Blackfire woul\d work well -Glass cleaner- I reccomend Eagle One's 20/20. -An all purpose cleaner like 1Z Cockpit Premium for the interior plastic and carpeting with a nice soft brush. -Woolite and water dilluted 5:1 for leather -A good tire dressing for the tires and the wheel wells after they are washed. Things that would be NICE: -A Porter Cable dual action polisher with 2 cutting pads, 2 polishing pads, and 1 finishing pad. Its tempting to buy a cheaper buffer from Sears or Pepboys or something but trust me when I tell you, if you want the best and safest results the PC is worth the investment. Cheap buffers (Waxxpro, Craftsman) have weak motors that bog down and cumbersome bonnet type systems that either remove too much or not enough paint. If you're gonna spend the bucks anyways, spend twice as much and get the right tool for the job. -A higher cut compound for real swirl removal with the PC like Meguiars #83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish, Poorboys SSR2, Menzerna Intensive Polish -A Bissel Little Green Clean Machine for cleaning carpeting -Plexus plastic polish for all clear plastic -Clay (ClayMagic or Mothers) First clean the interior. Spray the all purpose cleaner on all plastic parts, agitate with the soft brush and wipe clean, use the woolite on the seats and wipe off with a damp towel. Vacuum the carpets well and spray the cleaner and agitate of needed. Pay attention to the nooks and crannys! Always do the interior first so you dont get dust on clean paint. Now, nextthing to do is wash with a good carwash using a good Microfiber, Chenile or Lanswool mitt. Use two buckets, one with soapy water and one with clean for rinsing the mitt after each pass. Wash in straight lines only, never touch the paint in circles. Wash from the top down then do the wheels last as that is where the most grime is, you don't want to drag that up onto the paint. If its hot rinse each panel after washing it. Dont forget to scrub the wheel wells! Next if you have the clay, clay now. Resoap each panel, clay, rinse until the whole car and the windows are done. Now dry the car using your MF towels, use two towels again in straight lines until the car is dry. Now, dress the wheel wells by spraying the protectant up inside them, then spray the protectant on the tire swipe and do the tires. I always do this before the next steps so it doesn't leave overspray on the car. Now its time to start detailing! If you have moderate to heavy swirls and you have the PC start with it, the DACP and a cutting pad, only work 2'x2' sections at a time. Don't use too much DACP, 3-4 dime sized drops a panel is plenty. Make each section look its best before moving on. Use the PC at high speed (5 or 6) and use random overlapping strokes with moderate pressure until the product almost dissapears. The swirls will come out it just may take time. This stage could take hours so be ready for that but the results are worth it. Work your way around the car, when it stops working as well swap out the pad for a clean cutting pad thats why you have two. If the swirls aren't bad use DACP with a polishing pad instead in the same way. If working by hand fold up one of the terry towels into 8ths, apply the #9 or #82 and work into the paint using moderate pressure. Again work 2x2 sections until almost clean and make each section look its best before moving on. This will not remove all swirls but thats left to later steps to hide. If you used the DACP and a cutting pad then you need to go around with DACP and #9 or #82 and a polishing pad afterwards as DACP and a cutting pad will leave micromarring behind. Next, polishing! If you have the buffer use a clean polishing pad and your polish of choice, use it like the DACP but you don't have to work it as long. If by hand same deal, fold up a terry towel and go to town. Now, stand back and admire the work. The paint should be perfect now, no swirls, smooth as glass, good proper color. This is where you look for areas of problems and do them again until it looks right. Now comes the waxing! You can wax by hand or by PC with the finishing pad. Use straight lines and put down a thin coat. Wait depending on the instructions on the wax then buff off IN STRAIGHT lines with an MF towel. Layer and add coats as you see fit. Don't forget to wax the wheels. Next is windows. Get your 20/20 and some paper towels, and newspaper. Spray the 20/20 on the paper towel until its soaked, then scrub it into the window. Next, wipe clean with the newspaper, inside and out all the way around. You can now wax the windows if you'd like but its not neccisary. Now thats it, you're done, sit back and admire your work. Watch for missed patches of wax and wax stuck in creases and crevices. Congratulations!
  9. 3 points
    okay guys, I am going to give you a very constructive advice on how to fix this problem.first remove the cluster and if you do not know how go to lexls.com and follow the instructions.then remove the face cover .first grap the tach needle gently and pull untill you hear a pop,again be gentle and do not ge scared.once you hear the pop move the needle clockwise untill it pops again then gently release it.now move the needle slowly counterclock till you sit it over the zero an on the dot and make sure that it sits right on the zero.to check your work move it gently say to the mark 3 then let go it should snap right back to zero,once you have accomplished this ,you are rock & roll baby.the same thing goes for speedometer.back light is not working change cap 212,after making sure your cathodes are okay meaning the bulbs.if not you can get them at a very good price from plano lexus,they are awsome as far as price goes.gas guage slow change cap 142.while you are at it change any bad or weak bulbs ,be the warning ones or the indicator ones such as shifter position.by the way guys the cluster lexus has on the first gen is the 1992,because the psb are so robust,where the 1993 and 1994 are made a little bit on the cheapy side.this job should take about an hour if you how to handle things.good luck and let me know. please make a donation to lexls.com,this guy is great.may god bless his soul.
  10. 2 points
    I had a common problem with my right rear door actuator. It kept getting weaker and weaker slowing down and eventually not working at all. I did a search on Lexus actuator on ebay and came up with an inexpensive universal actuator which you will see below in the installation instructions. When I opened up the panel in the door it seemed to be near impossible to install this new actuator in any way. After dinking around trying this or that. I decided I would attach the actuator rod to the manual locking cam lever on the old actuator to try and make the new actuator work. This requires leaving the old non functioning actuator and parts in place. 1. Drill a hole the same diameter as the new actuator rod in the wider part of the manual locking cam lever on the old actuator right next to the where the manual locking wire hooks up to the old actuator cam lever. 2. Cut the new actuator rod to fit your application. Bend the new actuator rod end the same way the manual locking wire is bent. Grind the rod end a little thinner as it is tight under the locking cam lever and it will rub on the housing otherwise. 3. Have the new actuator attached at the other end of the rod first. Attach the rod through the hole you made in the cam lever the same way as the manual locking wire is attached. 4. Reinstall the entire door locking mechanism back in the door leaving the actuator hanging out the access hole. 5. Attach the mounting strap to the new actuator using 2 long bolts place 2 spacers or multiple washers between the strap and the actuator this way you can put the actuator just inside the access hole in the door (spacing it carefully not to interfere with the power window) thus allowing you to screw the strap to the outer door panel. 6. You will need to cut a little of the white thin plastic protector shroud on the old actuator to make good clearance for the new actuator rod coming out through the door access hole. 7. Adjust the new actuator for locking and unlocking slack before fastening the mounting strap with screws to the door. 8. Splice the 2 new wires into the 2 larger wires coming off the old actuator (splice them in don't cut the old wires) (You may have to reverse the wires (before soldering or crimping) to make sure you have them unlocking & locking in sequence with the rest of the door locks) It actually works better than the original with shipping it costs less than 15.00 for the parts. I used lock washers on the bolts. It would probably be good to use locktight on all screws. I have no pictures, but If you read this carefully you know it can be done and is not very difficult. I haven't tried this on the front doors yet, but will eventually have to. I hope it goes as well for me... At least it wors for the back doors. Good Luck to you!... Indi
  11. 2 points
    Trevor, Thanks for the info. You were correct, I had not connected the temp sender wire. It is a bugger of a thing to locate and even more difficult to fit the connector when the entire loom is in situ. The sender unit is tucked in behind the plastic spark plug channel. Done now, so everything is fine. Thanks again, Alan.
  12. 2 points
    Many have questions on how to program the Homelink buttons. It is in the owner's manual but sometimes it may be confusing to understand the terminology. I've summarized what the manual states, and hopefully this will help anyone in the future (as I have in the past already hehe) "Ok. Delete the codes in the homelink then try this. (To delete, hold down the first and third buttons at the same time, hold for about 30-60 seconds till the light blinks really fast. Release and check if deleted if the light blinks at a slow but steady pace. That means there's nothing stored on that button) Hold down the garage door button and the homelink button u want programmed. Once the light changes from a slow blinking light to a rapid blinking light, release both buttons. Then go to the garage door openner and (this is different for all garage door openners) push the "learn" button ONCE. Within 30 secs, press the same button u programmed 3 times, and it should work."
  13. 2 points
    Thanks for the posting! We always like new information. Paul
  14. 2 points
    Incredible shots Steve!!. Looks like a wonderful trip.
  15. 2 points
    Hey guys i made a small video on how to replace the plastic coolant tees that get brittle with age and can crack / leak / break / leave you stranded. Its a fairly straight forward process, everything is covered in the video from tools to parts. If you have any questions let me know. Parts needed for this job: (1) Gallon of coolant - PN# 00272-1LLAC-01 (2) Coolant Tees - PN# 87248-60460 Optional, highly recommended parts for this job: (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A220 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A210 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A190 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A180 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A800 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 99556-20155
  16. 2 points
    I have NO connection with this automobile.... just showing others JDM RHD TOYOTA CELSIOR VIP SEDAN V8 LS400 JAPAN IMPORT TEXAS TITLE look: https://easttexas.craigslist.org/cto/6180839156.html
  17. 2 points
    It's a "feature" of all/most vehicles made by Toyota. The following text is from the Toyota Venza owners manual: " Approximately five hours after the engine is turned off, you may hear sound coming from under the vehicle for several minutes. This is the sound of a fuel evaporation leakage check and, it does not indicate a malfunction. " The first time I heard it on one of our Toyotas, I opened a garage door thinking the buzzing was coming from outside. Nope, it was just the emission system doing a self check.
  18. 2 points
    Many vehicles with keyless entry / push button start can be entered by thieves using a cheap amplifier that can be purchased on the Internet. If you park your vehicle near your fob (e.g. in your driveway), one of these amplifiers can be used to amplify the fobs signal - even when the fob is in your pocket - to open the vehicle door. I recently read about thieves in the city where I live capturing/recording signals from fobs as owners exit their vehicles in shopping centers and then opening vehicle doors with the recorded signals after the owners had disappeared from sight. I don't know if car manufacturers are doing anything about this problem. Google "Faraday Cage" for information on how to protect a key fob so its signal can not be captured by thieves.
  19. 2 points
    My car idles at around 400 in drive. As these cars age most of them idles around 400-500 in drive. I would not worry about it. Once when my car was idling around 200 It shutdown several times in heavy traffic. First thing I did was clean the MAF which improved the idle immensely.
  20. 2 points
    Thanks for the heads up! It seems once they get you past the warranty period they don't care. It's all about business and they will wait until a class action. It used to be if you took care of your car, it would last AND look good! I'll reconsider putting so much $ in a car in the future. Best of luck to you too!
  21. 2 points
    Could you run codes and give us that info....it would help us help you. By the way welcome aboard. Sounds like it is in limp mode, you could have other issues such as knock sensors/etc. but without codes don't know...
  22. 2 points
    I'll have to say quality. Of course my car is beautiful and a hoot to drive, but it is nice to know I can always depend on it. She's never let me down.
  23. 2 points
    I purchced a new 2016 Rx350, Sweet car every opt. available (even things I didn't know exsisted) Well I put on a trailer hitch as I do with every RX I've owned since 2003, and this is the first one that the Lighting plug under the read of the car was dead. No power was coming out. The Fix is a Hitch wire converter box that is added at the dealer when you buy a hitch from them at $1000,00 or so. If you don't want to hack into your wireing harness with some aftermarket converter then this is what you need. 2016 - **** = P/N PT725-48160 2010 - 2015 = P/N PT219-48101 First off I was told both boxes I listed are the same and are interchangable, but I opted for the correct P/N This is a box that plugs into your existing wirering harness in the passenger rear truck panel and allong with a 30 amp fuse into your fuse box will make your OEM Hitch wireing plug work like it was suppost to. I attached the install PDF, also. Good Luck . MY16 RX 350-450h Tow Harness Converter Kit IssC.pdf
  24. 2 points
    There are to many things about my Lexus to fit into just a few sentences I'm a big fan of the review camera and the rear sensors for cars for are about to come across your path as your begin to back up. The quiet ride and oh so smooth ride are excellent. must have add nos. Another feature that is a must have. is the blind spot mirror. It has saved me from an accident more than once. Paul
  25. 2 points
    usually the odd connector will be floating around, intended to connect to a component which isn't on that particular model of car/engine but the wiring loom just carries it regardless. If you move it in an arc and look for anything it can fit within that movement area then if not and everything works fine then its a dummy connector. It also doesn't look as though its been connected to anything in a long time looking at the dirt that has built up in it
  26. 2 points
    Just posted this the other day, and now I can't find it, so sorry for the repeat if it is posted elsewhere. I have a 2011 ES350 with 215/55 17 tires. Those are the only size tires the car can come with. I would like to go with a bigger tire to improve handling. To get the same diameter, I would need a 235/50 17, or a 235/45 18. Please let me know if going from the 215 stock tire to the 235 will fit properly on the ES350. I wouldn't think it would be a problem, but I am not sure sonce the factory does not offer a tire size option. Thanks all.
  27. 2 points
    There are at least four versions of the rear seat armrest. Here are two photos: 1. The rear seat armrest of the series 4 Japanese market Toyota Celsior "C type" with audio and HVAC controls and electrically adjustable rear seat with massage. 2. The rear seat armrest of the series 4 LS400 sold in Australia which has controls for the audio and HVAC systems.
  28. 2 points
    The Safety Connect portion of Lexus Enform is available separately for $139.95/year and there are discounts for multiple year subscriptions: https://secure.drivers.lexus.com/lexusdrivers/lexusenform/subscriptions.do Safety Connect is the service that includes using the emergency "S.O.S." button to speak to a real person at the response center, automatically notifies the response center with your GPS location if you crash, and provides Stolen Vehicle Location service in cooperation with law enforcement agencies. We have multiple year subscriptions to Safety Connect for our two Toyota brand vehicles and will subscribe as long as we own the vehicles. An aspect of Safety Connect that I particularly value is that it has it's own backup battery that can allow it to function even after a crash disables the rest of a vehicle's electrical system. My wife and I have AAA (and Medicare!) cards but we do not regard AAA as providing anything like the automatic and "one button push" services that Safety Connect provides.
  29. 2 points
    I "think" that the VAIS SL3B will provide A2DP audio streaming on your 2005 SC430: http://www.vaistech.com/site/sl3b.php There may be other companies that have products that will work but VAIS has been around time and their products were commonly offered by Lexus dealers before Lexus vehicles came with similar interfaces from the factory. I suggest that you contact VAIS and inquire before you buy. They may have other products that would be more appropriate for you.
  30. 2 points
    Too bad they don't use Apple systems in their cars. That way people wouldn't have to understand folders and fat things.
  31. 2 points
    Hey, anyone that has 20's or anything larger than stock, could you tell me how your ride quality is ? before and after ? how big of a difference etc etc I have a 2004 ES330 , and am thinking of getting 20's , but might just go with 18's or something more moderate if the ride quality suffers too much... any personal experience would help thanks !!
  32. 2 points
    www.snitruth.org I believe in God
  33. 2 points
    I might give salt or other chemicals from the road but the peeling is also happening on the roof of my truck. I'm 6' and have to step up on the side rails to see it. I just happened to look out of my house window and discovered that the roof was also peeling. If you look on the internet it's not just Lexus it also a lot of Toyota customers complaining about peeling paint. I just feel like if you spend over $50,000 on a vehicle you shouldn't have these problems.
  34. 2 points
    Old thread... I know... but is this (attached) the C-Best list you refer to? CBES.pdf
  35. 2 points
    Hi Jeff and welcome to the Club. This particular problem is not unheard of but very few members are unable to find a solution. Personally, in a mild way, I'm not satisfied with the head rest adjustment just like you. Did Lexus Customer Service say they could get the other head rest package from Japan and retro fit it to your current installation. Try that idea if you haven't already. Also, as you drive around you'll find that most foreign cars have the same type headrest.
  36. 2 points
    Lexus LS400 '93 and '94 have a problem with the instrument cluster lights (dash lights). Many many people have this problem. The dash lights won't come on for a while, then they will flicker and finally come on. This is more evident in cold weather. This problem gets worse over a period of weeks or months until they will refuse to come on at all. When the light are off, the fuel gauge points to empty as well. The problem, I found, is in the power supply circuit boards. They are located behind the instrument cluster. I have compiled some detailed instructions on how to remove those boards. If you want a copy of those instructions, just Email (PM) me. I'll Email them to you, no charge. I would attach them here, but they are larger than the 102.4KB limit on this board. My car did that. '93 LS400. The Lexus dealer wanted $1400 to repair it. I repaired mine myself, I'm an electronics engineer and I can help you repair yours too! Email me or PM me Jim Walker jimlwalker@sbcglobal.net -------------------- I have the Repair for your '93 or '94 LS400 flickering INSTRUMENT LIGHTS! I'm an electronics engineer and have found the solution to this common problem on my own car! I want to help you with your problem too.
  37. 2 points
  38. 2 points
    Thmsabear, yes the universal u-joints do work. I replaced both on our 2002 RX300 about 1 1/2 years ago. Stopped the vibration. We have put about 15K miles on them since the repair. I purchased the u-joints from a company out of Rockford, IL. In our case, the vibration started after the timing belt and water pump was changed. The engine had to be raised to reach some of the bolts. This caused the problem with the u-joint. Don't waste your money on a new driveshaft. Lexus will tell you that you can't replace the u-joints, that they are staked-in. "Not True" Go to: rockforddriveline.com There is a You Tube video about staked in u-joints. Do a search for: "Staked-in u-joint replacement" posted by bootsnthejeep. Hope this helps, Bill
  39. 2 points
    1995 LS 400 and the entire back tail lights are out!!! Only when I press the brakes, the back lights comes on but once feet of the brakes no lights at all. Is this electrical? Is it major? Any recalls? Help
  40. 2 points
    You can get invaluable info at this link. http://www.lexls.com/ The above link is by far the most complete tutorial for the jobs that it does list. He deserves any donations he get. There is also a non-US guy that will sell you a download of the complete manual for about 7 bux. I found it on ebay I think. Anyway it came thru complete but lacks some indexing so you have to do a bit of searching for what you need. That guy's address is. fahad.victoria@gmail.com I think this may still be a valid addy. Drop me a line in mid Nov. if you have no luck, will be at my winter home then and have more info for you. Dikwag at gmail dot com R. Clikdik
  41. 2 points
    hi all i just bought a 2002 sc430 lexus & have the run flat tires, im not to happy with these tires & wondering what tires i should get & if there is a place on this car where i can store a spare donut tire, thanks in advance
  42. 2 points
    Ah perhaps you mean you want to know how to do it yourself.. To reset the data, perform the following operations: Push the “ODO/TRIP” button to change the display to blank. Turn the ignition switch off. Turn the ignition switch to “ON” with the trip meter “RESET” button held down. Keep pushing the “RESET” button for longer than 5 seconds after the ignition is turned on. After the above operation, the master warning light comes on, a warning tone sounds and the above message appears to inform you that the engine oil maintenance data has been reset. (U.S.A. only)
  43. 2 points
    James, not complaining about the prices, not expecting the manufacturer to assume liability forever, but this is not my first rodeo, I have owned toyotas since 1983 when I purchased my dream car a 1979 Celica a 474 brown hatchback, from there I went to the 1984 Supra,1984 Camry, 1990 Camry, 1987 Truck, 1991 Tercel, 1991 Corolla, 2002 Camry, 2006 Camry, 1993 4Runner, 1996 Camry, 1996 4runner, 2001 Rav4, 2002 Tacoma, 2001 Avalon, 2007Tundra you name it I had my share of Toyotas, but I never had something like this go bad in any car I have owned and you dont go out and pay over $90,000.00 for a car to go and start replacing parts like this 4 years later especialy driving in the city with nicely paved roads.( I understand if I was driving in unpaved roads full of pot holes) James the 1992 Camry went from my to my oldest son to the youngest and it finally died due to lack of maintenance and him neglecting to replace a leacky front crank seal, instead he chhose to add oil all the time, the car had over 330k miles, so I know my Toyotas. Listen on my LS460 first the radio while playing CD if you go over a bump it shoot the radio off, this happen while the car was under warranty, brake actuator making some noise, replaced under warranty, engine valves, done under a recall, wind noise due to some deffective mouldings, a clunk in the transmission as you slow down ( intermitent) I can wait to see how much this will turn out to be? and the latest my lower control arm bushing issue, the leather wering our worst than on my older Lexus. not feeling it. I religiously take the car to be service either at a Lexus dealer or a Toyota dealer ( who told me about the arm issue) religiously, they sell me some service and I just get it done because I drive a lot and know that in order for the car to do what it is supposed to do I have to do my part. like I say before not what I expected from this car, considering the S550 and the E350 to replace my 2 nicer cars seriously. furthermore do you know I have over 120k miles on my 2006 IS250 and the only actual repair was a bad air fuel ratio sensor, under $ 400, that is what I am talking about, the rest maintenace on the clock, no complains on this baby and this is why I purchased the nicer Lexus I expected better. that is all.
  44. 2 points
    Riiight... This is a discussion forum, this is not owned by Lexus, and its not yours to use as a conduit for your thoughts without accepting the viewpoints of others. If you want to say something to Lexus...and not start a discussion where other people join in and share their opinions...send them an email. However if you want to be taken seriously by Lexus or anyone else I would suggest you work on your typing and writing skills beforehand. And save your opinions about what the forum should and should not be used for to those of us who have spent the last decade building it. A blog is an online publication of one persons thoughts. This is not a blog, it's a discussion forum. Thread closed.
  45. 2 points
    Thanks tex2670. Did anyone mention what causes the problem? Mileage related? How many miles on your '07? Just curious, Just saw a post on ClubLexus today with a good explanation (thanks to solotex55 -- no relation):
  46. 2 points
    So you can educate your dealership when they tell you they can't duplicate your problem. I'm slowly downloading more of these as I get them, so keep checking back. 1. Air conditioning poor peformance - AC002_05.pdf 2. Air conditioning sensors inspection - AC005_04.pdf 3. Headlamp condensation - BO003_07.pdf 4. Front brake squeal - BR001_05.pdf 5. Brake acutator abnormal noise - BR003_07.pdf 6. Malfunction indicator lights after brake pad change - BR006_06.pdf 7. Retrieving diagnostic codes (unfortunately this is with the Lexus diagnostic equipment) - EG009_05.pdf 8. ISC learning procedure (this is a good one to be used after drained or disconnected battery) - EG010_05.pdf -this TSB mentions using the Lexus diagnostic equipment but look for my other post for directions for the ordinary mortal who doesn't have the Lexus scanner 9. Rocking feeling at 70mph - EG013_07.pdf 10. Power back door noise - EL013_07.pdf 11. Zero point calibration after wheel alignment - L_SB_0015_08.pdf 12. Tonneau cover latch rattle - NV001_07.pdf 13. Vehicle pull/drift to right improvement - ST003_05.pdf 14. Cylinder head cover oil baffle caution - L_SB_0021_08.pdf 15. Upper/Lower windshield tick noise - NV005_06.pdf 16. Instrument panel rattle - NV002_06.pdf 17. 5W20 oil recommendation - EG006_06.pdf 18. Front seat squeak noise - NV001_06.pdf 19. TPMS diagnostics etc. - PG001_07.pdf __________________________________________________________ The following are not TSBs, but good information to have. FRONT AND REAR BRAKE EXPLODED VIEW (from and RX330, but I believe RX400 is the same) front_brake_component.pdf rear_brake_component.pdf STEREO REMOVAL rx_stero_remove.pdf DEALER SELECTABLE OPTIONS (wish I knew why Lexus made it so only the dealer can adjust these) rx400h_customized_settings.pdf VOICE TEL and NAV COMMANDS (if you can get the stupid system to understand you) 2007_RX400h_Voice_Commands.pdf LexusVoiceNavwTel.pdf
  47. 2 points
    I know, it may be too late for, but have a look at this vid - maybe it will help you to defeat this navigation system's behavior:
  48. 2 points
    Well one of my license plate light bulbs burned out, easiest change on a LS. the info below might be of some help to someone. 1999 Lexus LS400 Car Light Bulb Socket Sizes Low Beam Headlight Bulb Size: 9006 High Beam Headlight Bulb Size: 9005 Parking Light Bulb Size: 2825 Front Turn Signal Light Bulb Size: 7440 Rear Turn Signal Light Bulb Size: 7440 Tail Light Bulb Size: 7443 Stop Light Bulb Size: 7443 High Mount Stop Light Bulb Size: 921 Fog/Driving Light Bulb Size: 9006 License Plate Light Bulb Size: 2825 Back Up Light Bulb Size: 7440 Front Side Marker Light Bulb Size: 2825 Rear Side Marker Light Bulb Size: 2825 Glove Box Light Bulb Size: 37 Step/Courtesy Light Bulb Size: 194 or 74 or DE3021 Trunk/Cargo Area Light Bulb Size: 194 Instrument-General Light Bulb Size: 194
  49. 2 points
    the pdfs are posted on Page 19, thanks to mann777, It took me well over 90 minutes to read from start to end ( all the posts of this thread). So, I am including the pdfs here anyway if anyone reading random pages. I too have both Clunk issue and 55-75MPH vibration issue on my '07 GX470 with 54K miles on it(just bought pre-owned from a remote non-Lexus dealer), hoping mann777 posted TSBs will fix my issues. I will try to call the local Lexus dealer tomorrow and see if I can get them fixed. I hope mine are covered as the TSBs say 72K or 7Years(72 Months). and couple of questions about the vibration TSB, does it have to be under the floorboard because in the TSB in mentions under diagnostic procedure that," Confirm customer complaint of vibration/drone felt in the floorboard or seat between 55 -- 75 mph by test driving the vehicle and note the speed range in which the vibration/drone occurs." I am not quite sure if I feel under the floorboard but my steering vibrates/vobbles like anything between those speeds, I feel like the whole car is vibrating. I feel this vibration in my car is between 60-75MPH, does that mean I have both the problems mentioned in the TSB, i.e. 55-65MPH and 70-75MPH, ? and why is 65-70MPH not covered in the TSB? I think I have the issue between these speeds too I guess. is there any chance that they may deny as not being the floorboard and classifying as a different issue and try to rob me? Thanks in advance. CLUNK_TSB_2008.pdf Steering_Drive_Line_Vibration_issue_Feb_2008.pdf
  50. 2 points
    Folks TILT STEERING NOT OPERATING ON LS430 Just fixed mine tonight 02 LS430 Ultra. Tilt was inoperable and on lowest (and most inconvenient) setting. Took about 30 mins. 3 screws (1 bottom, 2 on front face of shroud that you must turn steering wheel 90 degrees each way to access) to remove shroud. Motor was stuck. Was making very quiet clicking noise when I tried the switch. On 02, the motor assembly is parallel and below the steering column shaft. 2 metric allen keys and the motor releases from the column in which the steering wheel can be now lifted up. This will allow the motor to be free to be manually spun and manipulated by hand to free up. There may be an E clip that is on the worm gear that may be very tight and jamming the motor. Once the motor is spun to free it's movement, you can disconnect the harness, spin the motor to get it free (gear may need to be lubricated), the motor can be repositioned in a manner to have the column tilted to the level desired. Once that's done, reassemble and enjoy. I snapped several photos that I'll included that will make it more easily to visualize. Studying it and determining the cause took about 1 hour. Once you know what you need to do, job should take appx 30 mins or less, assuming you have the correct tools and are mechanically inclined. This is the view from the left side of the column. Remove the gold colored hex head bolt which releases the harness. The black hex head screw to the lower right of that is the right motor captive screw to be removed. This is the view from the bottom. A black colored hex head cover screw which contains a small spring and guide has been removed. The worm gear (long straight expoosed screw like mechanism) is attached to the tilt motor. The E clip that was jamming the motor was located on the worm gear (motor is at the top of the photo, worm gear is attached to the shaft of the motor, E clip is located (removed in this photo) in the area just above where the gear threads begin. View from the right of the steering column. Black hex head screw in middle of photo is the right captive screw on the motor. Email or message me with questions. Best Rick



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