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  1. 5 points
    Hello Everyone, I know IACV has been a huge topic on the forum and I have found various pictures in the RX forum and ES forum on the idle air control valve (IACV) or as others call it the idle speed control valve (ISC). However, I have not found a "step by step" posting to date which definitively shows how to clean this thing so that my car stops giving me idling problems. Symptoms I have had included: - low and rough idling that would cause the car engine to start shaking after starting the car - this eventually got worse to the point that when I start my car, it would not idle unless I gave it gas - idling problems for me tended to occur more often after my engine was warm or had been sitting in the sun I hope these series of postings help you fellow LOC members out there. You've certainly helped me in the past so here's my two cents at this common problem. Additionally, the instructions I give are the way in which I have cleaned it myself. As you go about and attempt this, you may find better ways to do so. Please add and refine my instructions/terminology as needed. I am not a professional. I've only changed my oil, air filters, and conducted minor maintenance previously. The bottom line is that if you have the right tools, you should be able to do this. This discovery/ cleaning took me about 2 hours to do cause I ran into problems and there were major steps left out in previous postings that I’ve encountered read. The next time I do this, I believe I can get this done in about an hour or less. Tools Needed: 1) Tightly fitting Philips Screw Driver 2) Carb cleaner that is O2 sensor safe (I've seen CRC. I used Valvoline Carb Cleaner) 3) Locking Grip Pliers (definitely helped me remove the factory tight screws) 4) Small brush for cleaning 5) Towels for cleaning 6) Pliers (help removed brackets holding the hoses) 7) Latex gloves helps with limit the messiness. * I used the same gasket and did not replace it. No problems found. 1) Remove the hose that comes from the engine/motor that connects to the air intake hoses.( Hose is below in red – we’ll refer to this as Hose A) When you pull back the rubber hose covering, you will see that a metal bracket is holding the hose pretty tightly in place. Use the pliers to clasps the two metal pieces together to loosen the bracket and pull the hose loose. You can also do this by hand if it’s easier for you. 2) Upon removing the hose, you will want to remove the two air intake hoses. Loosen the three screws above in green and remove the hose. Below is a picture of the intake hoses removed. 3)After removing the intake hoses, I opened the lid to the air filter and moved this to the side of the car to create more working room. I believe there are two clips on the right holding the lid in place. Just pop the two clips and move the cover to the side. I also took out the air filter and temporarily moved this to the side. 4)After removing the intake hose, the throttle body/IACV/black electric coil is revealed. At this point, I removed the black electric wire from the black coil. Once the electric wire is removed you can remove the black coil from the IACV by removing the two screws. Note, the screws are factory tight so use a tight fitting screw driver to remove the screws. One of my screws was partially stripped from the dealership’s work, so I had to resort to my locking grip pliers which helped out tremendously. After removing the two screws, the black electric piece pops right off. When the black electrical coil is removed from the IACV, it exposes a small pencil sized metal stud. You will also notice a washer that sits on this stud. Don’t lose this washer. Take it and put it aside so it doesn’t fall off when you continue on in the next steps. 5)Additionally, I removed the hose coming out of the IACV. We’ll call this Hose B. This hose can be removed in the same manner by clamping the bracket and pulling the hose out. You will see that the hose is removed below. Below are pictures of before and after. 6)Here is where the fun begins. I initially attempted to remove the four screws attached to the IACV at this point, but found that after an hour, this would be nearly impossible to remove considering the location of the screws were in an extremely tight spot. The only way I would be able to remove the IACV is to remove right throttle body. Not as tough as it sounds. Three screws need to be removed to accomplish this. Again, be careful when removing the screws. Also you will see I removed another electric plug and I also cut a tie wrap. Once you complete these steps, the throttle body/ IACV comes out pretty easily. Note when you remove the throttle body, there will be one LAST hose connected to the IACV. Be careful when you remove this hose as radiator fluid may spill. Some of my fluid spilled out so I just refilled my coolant after I was done. 7)Below is a picture of the bottom view of the IACV. You now can EASILY remove the four screws connecting the IACV to the throttle body . In the picture below, I have already removed one of the screws. Once the four screws are removed the IACV and throttle body separate. Now you can clean both of them with your carb cleaner, brush, towels, cotton swabs etc…. Picture here is before I the cleaning with all the muck inside Pictures after I cleaned the IACV and throttle body This last picture is the post throttle body cleaning 8) Once you are done cleaning, just put back the throttle body/iacv the same way you took it off, and put everything back in reverse order. Ensure the gasket is in place. Also, ensure you put the washer back on the electric coil. Make sure you place hose A & B back and ensure the electric plugs are back in their original position. Once these things are in place, then it's all about putting the air filter/hoses back and you are good to go. If you have lost any coolant, make sure you refill it to a safe level. After completing this cleaning, my car starts up without any problem and idles as if I just purchased the car brand new. Replacing this at a dealership would have costed me $300-400 easily. Let me know if you have any questions. Cheers (Also, I tried to post these as separate replys, but the software combined all my replies into a single reply and did not keep them separated) *Edited the posting to have the pictures follow step by step in sequential order*
  2. 3 points
    I just purchased a NX200T. During the test drive I did not realize the headrest was a little too far forward. It is sharply angled toward the driver at the top. I am on the shorter side at 5' 6 1/2" tall and have good posture. When I sit in the driver seat with good posture my head is pushed forward about 1/2". I have to lean the seat back so I am slouching to avoid neck discomfort. I asked my dealer, service center and the U.S. corporate office for advice. There was nothing they could do. Very disappointing. The worst part is that the headrest is available outside the US with adjustable forward and aft movement at 4 intervals. I asked a few after market car parts dealers for advice. I was told it is a common problem. I was given many solutions (get another brand car's headrest, cushions, heat the metal and bend the rods, padding, etc.). Some ideas were unsafe and of course illegal I thought. For now I put some 2" cushioning in the seat to bring the rest of the seat inline with the headrest. It is better but not quite there and makes my A/C venting fairly useless, & is a little dorky. After just having paid about 50K for the fully loaded car I want a professional solution to improve the headrest. So far I have not solved it. I am curious if anyone else has had this issue and solved it? Any advice is appreciated. I am 95% happy with the car/SUV and am looking for that last 5% of comfort/fit.
  3. 3 points
    I made the DIY because I couldn't find one specifically for the RX330. Lexus also apparently think no RX330 owner would ever change their own oil because they don't tell you how to locate the oil dilter and drain plug in the owner's manual. I hope others find this useful. Please comment. I have a 2004 RX330 and after 23,000 miles, I've decided I'm going to do minor maintenance myself. You'll need: - 5qts of 5w-30 oil - oil filter (see info below) - drain plug gasket (see info below) - 10mm socket wrench - 14mm socket wrench - oil catch container - oil filter wrench (I used the nylon strap which seems pretty versitile) - either jack stands or ramps - funnel - rags to soak up dripping oil Part numbers: Lexus parts: 90430-12031 - Gasket Oil Drain Plug 90915-YZZD1-01 - Oil Filter - 6 Cylinder Toyota equivalent: 904-3012028 or 3012031 drain plug gasket $1.04 089-2202011 oil filter $4.99 1) Jack up the front of your car on stands or use ramps. The RX330 weighs 3850 lbs so make sure your ramps/stands can handle it. You might be able to get away without raising it if you slide on the floor, but it's tight. 2) Pop your hood and unscrew off the oil cap. I stuck a yellow funnel in mine. Notice the yellow dip stick on the left. 3) Lexus put some cosmetic plastic panels to make the "less car savy" believe the car is a magic transportation pod with no ugly mechanical internals. You'll need to remove two of them to access the filter and drain plug. The orange highlight is the panel that hides the filter, and the purple arrow shows where the panel that hides the drain plug is. 4) Get under the car to look for the drain plug panel (purple arrow in above picture). The panel will look like this. Remove all the 10mm bolts. 5) With the panel removed, the drain plug is revealed. Get a 14mm socket wrench and loosen the bolt. Position your oil catch container and remove the bolt. Lexus engineers did good.. they designed the bolt angle so the oil shoots down instead of to the side. Very nice. Remove the drain plug bolt AND its gasket. If the gasket is not on the bolt, it's probably still stuck to the oil pan. Remove the gasket and discard. 6) As the oil is draining, work on removing the panel to the oil filter (orange). Remove all the 10mm bolts (red arrows). 7) There are two plastic clips (green arrows) also holding this panel on. Using a flathead screwdriver, carefully pry up the center part of the clip just a little. This will loosen the clip and the whole clip can be pulled out. 8) Pull off the panel. The other panels will be overlapped over it, but they flex enough to allow you to remove it. This is what it looks like without the panel. 9) After the oil is done draining, put the new gasket on the bolt and replace the bolt. Tighten the bolt for a good seal but don't over tighten. I don't know the official torque yet. Wipe up the oily bolt. UPDATE: I got the Lexus service info... Torque the drain plug to 33ft-lbs (45Nm, 459 kgf-cm) 10) With the panel off, you can now see the oil filter (orange) and a nice gift from the Lexus engineers: an oil catch (green). Loosen the filter, and residual oil will drip out. The oil catch will guide the dripping oil out the oilpan/drainplug panel so position your oil catch below the catch. 11) On the new filter, dab a layer of fresh oil on the O-ring (the rubber ring around the outer lip of the open end of the filter). Align the threads of the new filter and spin it by hand onto the engine where the old filter was. When it makes contact, tighten by hand another 3/4 turn. Don't over tighten. 12) Wipe up oil drips. For me, even though the catch was there, some oil still dripped all over the exhaust pipe and panels. Wipe this up. 13) Fill the engine with 5w-30 oil, 5 qts. A funnel is helpful here. 14) Replace oil cap. 15) Replace both plastic panels. 16) Shut hood and drive around the block. Park the car on level ground and wait 15 minutes. Check for leaks and oil level. I hope this is helpful to someone. ...
  4. 3 points
    Here are a couple of tips I have picked up regarding maximizing fuel efficiency 1. Replace the spark plugs if you have not already, I prefer NGK Iridium plugs 2. Look for Cooper CS5 Grand Touring/Ultimate Touring tires, they are excellent for these cars 3. Use OVERDRIVE on the highway or at speeds in excess of 60 MPH (most say 40-50 MPH, but in my car I have observed minimal difference at those speeds). Note that you can use Overdrive at all speeds and it will keep the RPM's down but from what I have learned at slower speeds this translates to negligible fuel economy gains. 4. Set your ECT mode to NORMAL and not PWR 5. Keep the RPM's as low as possible aka don't floor it 6. Make sure your wheels are balanced and aligned properly and that your tires are also correctly inflated. 7. Mythbusters proved this, KEEP YOUR CAR CLEAN, it does SLIGHTLY affect gas mileage for the positive. 8. Turn off your A/C system if you want, it does affect gas mileage slightly, but its also a comfort, not really necessary unless you want to maximize fuel economy. 9. In reference to replacing the spark plugs, you may also want to consider replacing the ignition coil, distributor cap & rotor, and plug wires if they have not been replaced in quite some time as they can lose spark and cause poor performance, this would be within a general tune-up. 10. Replace the fuel filter, this is commonly missed on every car, and they get NASTY, unclean fuel = bad performance. Also consider getting a professional fuel service done on your car, this can help too, especially if it has not been done in some time.
  5. 3 points
    Folks, and Forum Admin, Please make a separate section on the Forum for 2016 RX models. THese have had major changes since 2015. The engine has been tweaked, there are scores of safety improvements and the look is way different. I am sure the issues will be different as well. So please rename the 2010-Present section to say 2010-2015 and keep it separate from 2016 onwards. Thanks.
  6. 3 points
    I can answer that. Those zany Brits particularly like "mark" designations: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mark_(designation Maybe it is a longing for Jaguar sedan series names. In the UK, the model year ranges of the LS400 are referenced thusly: Series 1, Mark 1 = 1990-1992 Series 1, Mark 2 = 1993-1994 Series 2, Mark 3 = 1995-1997 Series 2, Mark 4 = 1998-2000
  7. 3 points
    Replaced the Y pipe. Almost one month and no more problems.
  8. 3 points
    This was requested by a member in another thread. Another member responded that this would be difficult to do because everyone uses different products and he is right. But in all honesty there really is a set sequence of steps that are done when you detail properly. There is some variance in product usage, but not in the technique. First of all I'm going to mention several different possibilities of products used for each step. You'll notice that most of these products are professional grade and probably will have to be ordered online. That is because in my experience the consumer products are just that, designed for consumers who don't know or care about having the best finish possible. Professional grade products give the experienced hobbyist and professional detailer greater control over what is being done with the paint. Here are the ESSENTIALS you will NEED these to get started. -Several Microfiber towels, I say 6, 3 small 3 big. I reccomend them from our site www.lexuscarcare.com or www.pakshak.com. MF will be mush less prone to scratch than cotton. -Several 100% cotton bath towels, 3 or so. These will be used folded up to work in swirl removers and polish because they have more "bite" than MF. MF will be used for removal. -Several foam and MF applicators, you can get these where you get the towels. -Eagle one Tire Swipes for spplying dressing to tires -A semi stiff brush for tires and wheel wells -2 nice 5 gallon buckets -Some sort of paint cleaner like Meguiars #9, #82 Swirl Free Polish, 1Z Paint Polishes (which work very well by hand) -Some sort of polish like Meguiars #7, P21S Gloss Enhancing Paintwork Cleanser, #81 Hand Polish from Meguiars. -Some sort of wax. We're following a carnuaba/hybrid system here as thats whats best to use if you're only working by hand. So something like Meguiars #26 Tech Wax paste, P21S, or Meguiars NXT, Poorboys EX or EX-P, Blackfire woul\d work well -Glass cleaner- I reccomend Eagle One's 20/20. -An all purpose cleaner like 1Z Cockpit Premium for the interior plastic and carpeting with a nice soft brush. -Woolite and water dilluted 5:1 for leather -A good tire dressing for the tires and the wheel wells after they are washed. Things that would be NICE: -A Porter Cable dual action polisher with 2 cutting pads, 2 polishing pads, and 1 finishing pad. Its tempting to buy a cheaper buffer from Sears or Pepboys or something but trust me when I tell you, if you want the best and safest results the PC is worth the investment. Cheap buffers (Waxxpro, Craftsman) have weak motors that bog down and cumbersome bonnet type systems that either remove too much or not enough paint. If you're gonna spend the bucks anyways, spend twice as much and get the right tool for the job. -A higher cut compound for real swirl removal with the PC like Meguiars #83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish, Poorboys SSR2, Menzerna Intensive Polish -A Bissel Little Green Clean Machine for cleaning carpeting -Plexus plastic polish for all clear plastic -Clay (ClayMagic or Mothers) First clean the interior. Spray the all purpose cleaner on all plastic parts, agitate with the soft brush and wipe clean, use the woolite on the seats and wipe off with a damp towel. Vacuum the carpets well and spray the cleaner and agitate of needed. Pay attention to the nooks and crannys! Always do the interior first so you dont get dust on clean paint. Now, nextthing to do is wash with a good carwash using a good Microfiber, Chenile or Lanswool mitt. Use two buckets, one with soapy water and one with clean for rinsing the mitt after each pass. Wash in straight lines only, never touch the paint in circles. Wash from the top down then do the wheels last as that is where the most grime is, you don't want to drag that up onto the paint. If its hot rinse each panel after washing it. Dont forget to scrub the wheel wells! Next if you have the clay, clay now. Resoap each panel, clay, rinse until the whole car and the windows are done. Now dry the car using your MF towels, use two towels again in straight lines until the car is dry. Now, dress the wheel wells by spraying the protectant up inside them, then spray the protectant on the tire swipe and do the tires. I always do this before the next steps so it doesn't leave overspray on the car. Now its time to start detailing! If you have moderate to heavy swirls and you have the PC start with it, the DACP and a cutting pad, only work 2'x2' sections at a time. Don't use too much DACP, 3-4 dime sized drops a panel is plenty. Make each section look its best before moving on. Use the PC at high speed (5 or 6) and use random overlapping strokes with moderate pressure until the product almost dissapears. The swirls will come out it just may take time. This stage could take hours so be ready for that but the results are worth it. Work your way around the car, when it stops working as well swap out the pad for a clean cutting pad thats why you have two. If the swirls aren't bad use DACP with a polishing pad instead in the same way. If working by hand fold up one of the terry towels into 8ths, apply the #9 or #82 and work into the paint using moderate pressure. Again work 2x2 sections until almost clean and make each section look its best before moving on. This will not remove all swirls but thats left to later steps to hide. If you used the DACP and a cutting pad then you need to go around with DACP and #9 or #82 and a polishing pad afterwards as DACP and a cutting pad will leave micromarring behind. Next, polishing! If you have the buffer use a clean polishing pad and your polish of choice, use it like the DACP but you don't have to work it as long. If by hand same deal, fold up a terry towel and go to town. Now, stand back and admire the work. The paint should be perfect now, no swirls, smooth as glass, good proper color. This is where you look for areas of problems and do them again until it looks right. Now comes the waxing! You can wax by hand or by PC with the finishing pad. Use straight lines and put down a thin coat. Wait depending on the instructions on the wax then buff off IN STRAIGHT lines with an MF towel. Layer and add coats as you see fit. Don't forget to wax the wheels. Next is windows. Get your 20/20 and some paper towels, and newspaper. Spray the 20/20 on the paper towel until its soaked, then scrub it into the window. Next, wipe clean with the newspaper, inside and out all the way around. You can now wax the windows if you'd like but its not neccisary. Now thats it, you're done, sit back and admire your work. Watch for missed patches of wax and wax stuck in creases and crevices. Congratulations!
  9. 3 points
    okay guys, I am going to give you a very constructive advice on how to fix this problem.first remove the cluster and if you do not know how go to lexls.com and follow the instructions.then remove the face cover .first grap the tach needle gently and pull untill you hear a pop,again be gentle and do not ge scared.once you hear the pop move the needle clockwise untill it pops again then gently release it.now move the needle slowly counterclock till you sit it over the zero an on the dot and make sure that it sits right on the zero.to check your work move it gently say to the mark 3 then let go it should snap right back to zero,once you have accomplished this ,you are rock & roll baby.the same thing goes for speedometer.back light is not working change cap 212,after making sure your cathodes are okay meaning the bulbs.if not you can get them at a very good price from plano lexus,they are awsome as far as price goes.gas guage slow change cap 142.while you are at it change any bad or weak bulbs ,be the warning ones or the indicator ones such as shifter position.by the way guys the cluster lexus has on the first gen is the 1992,because the psb are so robust,where the 1993 and 1994 are made a little bit on the cheapy side.this job should take about an hour if you how to handle things.good luck and let me know. please make a donation to lexls.com,this guy is great.may god bless his soul.
  10. 2 points
    Hi Nathan. I apologize for not connecting with you sooner. I am always amazed at the depth of friendship and caring that can be built with someone you have never met nor never knew what they looked like. The LOC is a place where those who enjoy their hobby can find others who like swapping stories with like minded friends. Landar was a great part of the LOC and was a great source of Lexus info and technical help. Thank you for letting us share your journey. Paul
  11. 2 points
    Hey guys i made a small video on how to replace the plastic coolant tees that get brittle with age and can crack / leak / break / leave you stranded. Its a fairly straight forward process, everything is covered in the video from tools to parts. If you have any questions let me know. Parts needed for this job: (1) Gallon of coolant - PN# 00272-1LLAC-01 (2) Coolant Tees - PN# 87248-60460 Optional, highly recommended parts for this job: (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A220 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A210 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A190 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A180 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A800 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 99556-20155
  12. 2 points
    I have NO connection with this automobile.... just showing others JDM RHD TOYOTA CELSIOR VIP SEDAN V8 LS400 JAPAN IMPORT TEXAS TITLE look: https://easttexas.craigslist.org/cto/6180839156.html
  13. 2 points
    We recently purchased a new 2017, Lexus RX350 and love it. Selling our original, one owner, 1994, LS400, with 88,000 miles. This superior designed and built, Generation 1 Lexus has been faithful to us as we have been faithful to it. We loved it and still love it. Its new owner will be blessed with full maintenance documentation and records from DAY ONE and any responses to any questions regarding its history will leave our hands with full disclosure of only "the truth". We would not hesitate to keep it and insure it with Hagerty Insurance as a "modern classic", BUT we do not have the room. If it should not sell to the right appreciative and discriminating buyer of this superior condition Lexus, we may have to make room! It is in truly excellent condition and will serve its new owner well. An ad is posted with www.ClassicCars.com. Go to the ad directly from Classic Car's front page by entering "979779" in the "cc-" prompt where indicated. Please do not hesitate to contact me with any further questions at woodman486@kc.rr.com.
  14. 2 points
    It's a "feature" of all/most vehicles made by Toyota. The following text is from the Toyota Venza owners manual: " Approximately five hours after the engine is turned off, you may hear sound coming from under the vehicle for several minutes. This is the sound of a fuel evaporation leakage check and, it does not indicate a malfunction. " The first time I heard it on one of our Toyotas, I opened a garage door thinking the buzzing was coming from outside. Nope, it was just the emission system doing a self check.
  15. 2 points
    Many vehicles with keyless entry / push button start can be entered by thieves using a cheap amplifier that can be purchased on the Internet. If you park your vehicle near your fob (e.g. in your driveway), one of these amplifiers can be used to amplify the fobs signal - even when the fob is in your pocket - to open the vehicle door. I recently read about thieves in the city where I live capturing/recording signals from fobs as owners exit their vehicles in shopping centers and then opening vehicle doors with the recorded signals after the owners had disappeared from sight. I don't know if car manufacturers are doing anything about this problem. Google "Faraday Cage" for information on how to protect a key fob so its signal can not be captured by thieves.
  16. 2 points
    Lexus is holding out until all of these cars die. I was also told it was a primer defect from a local body shop.
  17. 2 points
    I live in Long Island, NY and I just went to an area where there were a lot of collision shop and one shop gave me a great price and my truck looks like her old self again. She's no longer the ugly duckling. lol, I got sick of looking at the hood and the roof peeling, the GX470 looked like she had eczema.
  18. 2 points
    My car idles at around 400 in drive. As these cars age most of them idles around 400-500 in drive. I would not worry about it. Once when my car was idling around 200 It shutdown several times in heavy traffic. First thing I did was clean the MAF which improved the idle immensely.
  19. 2 points
    Thanks for the heads up! It seems once they get you past the warranty period they don't care. It's all about business and they will wait until a class action. It used to be if you took care of your car, it would last AND look good! I'll reconsider putting so much $ in a car in the future. Best of luck to you too!
  20. 2 points
  21. 2 points
    I'll have to say quality. Of course my car is beautiful and a hoot to drive, but it is nice to know I can always depend on it. She's never let me down.
  22. 2 points
    Hi there. FYI, I just happen to have a complete set of (4) LEXUS OEM 18" alloy wheels, including (4) Top-Rated (and barely used) Michelin X-Ice Xi2 235/60R18 Snow Tires. The bad news (for me) is that shortly after we purchased them, we purchased a winter-home in extreme southern Texas = super poor planning on our part. The good news for you (or someone) is that I'm only asking $1350 for "this > $3000 package", as just one new wheel @ Lexus sells for > $500. And if you'd like to see some photo's of them, they're posted on Craigslist, or I can email some photo's to you. So if you're interested, please give me a call at 440-254-6504, which is in Northeast Ohio, east of Cleveland. Thank you. Dan.
  23. 2 points
    usually the odd connector will be floating around, intended to connect to a component which isn't on that particular model of car/engine but the wiring loom just carries it regardless. If you move it in an arc and look for anything it can fit within that movement area then if not and everything works fine then its a dummy connector. It also doesn't look as though its been connected to anything in a long time looking at the dirt that has built up in it
  24. 2 points
    Have your rotors machined or replace sounds like they are out of round also check your brake pads. good luck
  25. 2 points
    Well, by coincidence or not, my Mom was in town for a week and loves to grab a tailgate and manhandle it, likely a leftover habit from the good old days and the '86 Plymouth Voyageur we had growing up.... then the power feature on the tailgate stops working. Every fix I came across is basically: My tailgate is broken - Ok, push the button in the glovebox and try again. - Oh that worked, thanks. To be clear about the symptoms, the motor that grabs the door and pulls it tight still worked, but the one that raises and lowers the door was not doing anything. I'd get the 3 beeps sometimes, but that's it. So I decided to dig in. Here's what I'm looking at. Problem must be in here. So you can see I pulled down the headliner. I just got a finger in there by the actuator arm and pulled at it. It's held up towards the right side by a couple of these. Now when I looked in the mechanism, I saw that the arm that the motor drives had popped off of the pin for the door side arm. Looking at this pic you can just barely see that there's a small bushing inside the end of the motor side arm. That was actually still sitting on the pin when I first got in there but I took it and pressed it into the motor side arm with a pair of pliers. Also note that the pin has a small groove at the top, you'll need to get a C-clip in there. For reference, the C-clip I used. I had to push the motor arm back into the mechanism a bit to make room to get it back onto the pin, then pull the door down a bit and massage it to get the arm on there. Then pop the C-clip on. Surprisingly, I managed to get it on first try. Lubed up the struts on the tailgate for easy operation, opened and closed it a couple times manually ( I read somewhere this resets the system. Who knows. ) And viola! It works just like it's supposed to. This is the motor arm on the pin. Tools I used: I had to use the coathanger to pull the motor arm out from the very back of the mechanism when I started, it had pulled all the way in as if to close the door. Pliers to seat the bushing in the arm, and to seat the arm on the pin. Screwdriver to push the C-clip on. I hope this helps someone. I was motivated by fear of dealership service departments.
  26. 2 points
    There are at least four versions of the rear seat armrest. Here are two photos: 1. The rear seat armrest of the series 4 Japanese market Toyota Celsior "C type" with audio and HVAC controls and electrically adjustable rear seat with massage. 2. The rear seat armrest of the series 4 LS400 sold in Australia which has controls for the audio and HVAC systems.
  27. 2 points
    My '07 came with the NAV system, and personally I would not waste the time trying to install one. My NAV is vague, and difficult to use in almost all aspects, and it is working "properly". The separate manual for it is about 1/2 " thick, and reading it would also be a waste of time, when you could plug in a Garmin , Tom Tom, or other GPS unit and have it operating in just a few seconds. I did enlist the assistance of a Lexus tech which helped with the shortcuts, but the system is still as I stated previously. In his words Lexus builds fine cars, not fine NAV systems. I guess my point is even if you are looking at plug & play, prepare to be somewhat disappointed. Good luck.
  28. 2 points
    The Safety Connect portion of Lexus Enform is available separately for $139.95/year and there are discounts for multiple year subscriptions: https://secure.drivers.lexus.com/lexusdrivers/lexusenform/subscriptions.do Safety Connect is the service that includes using the emergency "S.O.S." button to speak to a real person at the response center, automatically notifies the response center with your GPS location if you crash, and provides Stolen Vehicle Location service in cooperation with law enforcement agencies. We have multiple year subscriptions to Safety Connect for our two Toyota brand vehicles and will subscribe as long as we own the vehicles. An aspect of Safety Connect that I particularly value is that it has it's own backup battery that can allow it to function even after a crash disables the rest of a vehicle's electrical system. My wife and I have AAA (and Medicare!) cards but we do not regard AAA as providing anything like the automatic and "one button push" services that Safety Connect provides.
  29. 2 points
    I "think" that the VAIS SL3B will provide A2DP audio streaming on your 2005 SC430: http://www.vaistech.com/site/sl3b.php There may be other companies that have products that will work but VAIS has been around time and their products were commonly offered by Lexus dealers before Lexus vehicles came with similar interfaces from the factory. I suggest that you contact VAIS and inquire before you buy. They may have other products that would be more appropriate for you.
  30. 2 points
    two bulbs replaced. you remove the wheel-house fender(you dont have to completely remove it, just unscrew the bottom portion of liner and pull it back to reveal a plastic cap/cup. and you dont have to to remove the tires; i raised the front end until ties were off the ground and turned the wheels to the left for the left bulb (if you turn the wheel to the right it will block one of the screws holding the liner) once you pull back the liner you will see a grey plastic cap which you turn CCW and pull out(its held with a rubber seal. The bulb is behind this cap. pull the connector off the bulb. the bulb is held in place with two spring clips; squeeze the clips to release the bulb. sorry i dont have pictures. note: Removing the wheels does give you a clear sight path to see the bulb rather than working blindly. hope this helps someone.
  31. 2 points
    Have you checked with any neighbors or neighboring businesses that might have some survelience cameras? I'd want to fry that jerk.
  32. 2 points
    Hey, anyone that has 20's or anything larger than stock, could you tell me how your ride quality is ? before and after ? how big of a difference etc etc I have a 2004 ES330 , and am thinking of getting 20's , but might just go with 18's or something more moderate if the ride quality suffers too much... any personal experience would help thanks !!
  33. 2 points
    www.snitruth.org I believe in God
  34. 2 points
    I have had no luck with my dealer on remedying the paint peeling issue. The deal continues to place liability upon Lexus since the vehicle is out of warranty. The dealer ignores the fact that I had brought the paint chipping and peeling issue to their attention on at three occasions while the vehicle was under warranty. The dealer would simply use some touch up paint and offer nothing further. I made claim for a recall with Lexus a couple years ago. The response I received was that my vehicle was an isolated instance and did not warrant a recall. If enough dissatisfied consumers articulate this issue, I am hopeful Lexus will be forthcoming and offer customer satisfaction. Thanks so much for the forum to air this issue.
  35. 2 points
    I might give salt or other chemicals from the road but the peeling is also happening on the roof of my truck. I'm 6' and have to step up on the side rails to see it. I just happened to look out of my house window and discovered that the roof was also peeling. If you look on the internet it's not just Lexus it also a lot of Toyota customers complaining about peeling paint. I just feel like if you spend over $50,000 on a vehicle you shouldn't have these problems.
  36. 2 points
    Hey Jeff, Ditto on the headrest. I'm 'bout 6'3" and told my sales guy I was shaped like a comma in the seat. Not very comfortable. He said the headrest protects against whiplash. True, but not a good answer. I do like the idea about looking for a non-US replacement. Sorry I could not bring anything worth while to the discussion.
  37. 2 points
    Old thread... I know... but is this (attached) the C-Best list you refer to? CBES.pdf
  38. 2 points
    Seriously the technicians at the Lexus dealership can't sit their butts down in your car and see if the heaters work?
  39. 2 points
    That's very interesting. I yesterday had a test drive with the NX300h and I told the exact same comment to the salesman. He was quick to refute my suggestion and I almost convinced myself that I was just having an uncomfortable day. An inconvenient headrest would be a dealbreaker for me, so please let us know how it goes and if you find a solution.
  40. 2 points
    Hi Jeff and welcome to the Club. This particular problem is not unheard of but very few members are unable to find a solution. Personally, in a mild way, I'm not satisfied with the head rest adjustment just like you. Did Lexus Customer Service say they could get the other head rest package from Japan and retro fit it to your current installation. Try that idea if you haven't already. Also, as you drive around you'll find that most foreign cars have the same type headrest.
  41. 2 points
    I test drove a Buick LaCrosse turbo before buying my '13 350. I found the ride satisfactory but not as smooth as the Lexus. The fabric sunroof cover really disappointed me. Even though the Buick had more HP - I think around 300 - I felt that the 270 HP Lexus had better acceleration. I also drove an Infiniti and didn' t think that car measured up to the Lexus either. I have just passed the 2000 mile mark and hear no tire noise at all with Michelin MX4's. I find the cabin to be extremely quiet and have the premium sound system - not the $4000. Mark Levinson system. FYI on another Lexus blog you will find a post 27 pages long regarding issues with this option. I agree with the other members that only you can decide what car is for you. What I think is fabulous you might not. Lexus is consistently ranked at the top for resale value and build quality. I believe that their dealers are first rate due to the many remarks from members and my own experiences.
  42. 2 points
    Hi Brian and welcome to the LOC. You've asked some good questions and have gotten some good answers. I'll try to add some more information for you to take into consideration. I have owned a 2005 ES330, a 2010 ES350, and now a 2013 ES350. All three have been truly great cars, yet each had it's unique qualities. All had and have an excellent ride. The 2013 has been tuned to provide more responsive handling but without sacrificing the Lexus ride and quite cabin. Now, is it as quite and smooth as the 2010 Es was? To me, it is. But to you, you have no referance point other than the ATS. So asking about the ride and quite of the Lexus is of no help because you never drove an older one. Reliability on all Lexus/Toyota products is excellent. Lexus has been the best selling luxury car or in the top three of the best selling luxury cars for the past 5 years. Reliabilaty is a big reason for that. I have never had better service or better technicians service my cars than my Lexus dealer. And in saying that I should tell you that my dealer also sells Cadillac and gives those customers the same high level of service. One of the diffrences with the 2013 ES is the change from a Camry based chasis to using the Toyota Avalon chasis. This frame is longer and more rigid and also gives more interior cabin room. Lexus offers the Mark Levinson premium sound system featuring 19 speakers surrounding the drivers cabin. I think the peak rrms is around 550 watts. (You should look that up) I'm pretty much a snob when it comes to sound systems. I've listened to the Bose system, and in fact I use some Bose products at home. However, the car Bose system does not provide the clarity and range that the Mark Levinson system does. One area where I think the Levinson system is a little weak is the low bass end. The Mark Levinson system comes packaged with the Lexus navigation unit. Back to the ride and road noise for a last remark. Tires make a tremendous difference in the ride and outside noise on any car. As an example, last December when I took deliverly of my 2013, i saw that it had come from the factory with Bridgestone tires. Over the last few years there have been many disscuscions about what tires were best on which cars. I have foud that Michlen Primacy MX4 are by far the best choice for a ES350. They give a smooth ride and oh so quite. So, I had the dealer take off the Bridgestones and put on the Michlens at no charge to me. I have not driven th ATS, and it sounds like a nice ride. But I think if you do some research you may find that the Cadillac product will not hold its value as well as a Lexus. Paul
  43. 2 points
    hi all i just bought a 2002 sc430 lexus & have the run flat tires, im not to happy with these tires & wondering what tires i should get & if there is a place on this car where i can store a spare donut tire, thanks in advance
  44. 2 points
    Ah perhaps you mean you want to know how to do it yourself.. To reset the data, perform the following operations: Push the “ODO/TRIP” button to change the display to blank. Turn the ignition switch off. Turn the ignition switch to “ON” with the trip meter “RESET” button held down. Keep pushing the “RESET” button for longer than 5 seconds after the ignition is turned on. After the above operation, the master warning light comes on, a warning tone sounds and the above message appears to inform you that the engine oil maintenance data has been reset. (U.S.A. only)
  45. 2 points
    James, not complaining about the prices, not expecting the manufacturer to assume liability forever, but this is not my first rodeo, I have owned toyotas since 1983 when I purchased my dream car a 1979 Celica a 474 brown hatchback, from there I went to the 1984 Supra,1984 Camry, 1990 Camry, 1987 Truck, 1991 Tercel, 1991 Corolla, 2002 Camry, 2006 Camry, 1993 4Runner, 1996 Camry, 1996 4runner, 2001 Rav4, 2002 Tacoma, 2001 Avalon, 2007Tundra you name it I had my share of Toyotas, but I never had something like this go bad in any car I have owned and you dont go out and pay over $90,000.00 for a car to go and start replacing parts like this 4 years later especialy driving in the city with nicely paved roads.( I understand if I was driving in unpaved roads full of pot holes) James the 1992 Camry went from my to my oldest son to the youngest and it finally died due to lack of maintenance and him neglecting to replace a leacky front crank seal, instead he chhose to add oil all the time, the car had over 330k miles, so I know my Toyotas. Listen on my LS460 first the radio while playing CD if you go over a bump it shoot the radio off, this happen while the car was under warranty, brake actuator making some noise, replaced under warranty, engine valves, done under a recall, wind noise due to some deffective mouldings, a clunk in the transmission as you slow down ( intermitent) I can wait to see how much this will turn out to be? and the latest my lower control arm bushing issue, the leather wering our worst than on my older Lexus. not feeling it. I religiously take the car to be service either at a Lexus dealer or a Toyota dealer ( who told me about the arm issue) religiously, they sell me some service and I just get it done because I drive a lot and know that in order for the car to do what it is supposed to do I have to do my part. like I say before not what I expected from this car, considering the S550 and the E350 to replace my 2 nicer cars seriously. furthermore do you know I have over 120k miles on my 2006 IS250 and the only actual repair was a bad air fuel ratio sensor, under $ 400, that is what I am talking about, the rest maintenace on the clock, no complains on this baby and this is why I purchased the nicer Lexus I expected better. that is all.
  46. 2 points
    Riiight... This is a discussion forum, this is not owned by Lexus, and its not yours to use as a conduit for your thoughts without accepting the viewpoints of others. If you want to say something to Lexus...and not start a discussion where other people join in and share their opinions...send them an email. However if you want to be taken seriously by Lexus or anyone else I would suggest you work on your typing and writing skills beforehand. And save your opinions about what the forum should and should not be used for to those of us who have spent the last decade building it. A blog is an online publication of one persons thoughts. This is not a blog, it's a discussion forum. Thread closed.
  47. 2 points
    So you can educate your dealership when they tell you they can't duplicate your problem. I'm slowly downloading more of these as I get them, so keep checking back. 1. Air conditioning poor peformance - AC002_05.pdf 2. Air conditioning sensors inspection - AC005_04.pdf 3. Headlamp condensation - BO003_07.pdf 4. Front brake squeal - BR001_05.pdf 5. Brake acutator abnormal noise - BR003_07.pdf 6. Malfunction indicator lights after brake pad change - BR006_06.pdf 7. Retrieving diagnostic codes (unfortunately this is with the Lexus diagnostic equipment) - EG009_05.pdf 8. ISC learning procedure (this is a good one to be used after drained or disconnected battery) - EG010_05.pdf -this TSB mentions using the Lexus diagnostic equipment but look for my other post for directions for the ordinary mortal who doesn't have the Lexus scanner 9. Rocking feeling at 70mph - EG013_07.pdf 10. Power back door noise - EL013_07.pdf 11. Zero point calibration after wheel alignment - L_SB_0015_08.pdf 12. Tonneau cover latch rattle - NV001_07.pdf 13. Vehicle pull/drift to right improvement - ST003_05.pdf 14. Cylinder head cover oil baffle caution - L_SB_0021_08.pdf 15. Upper/Lower windshield tick noise - NV005_06.pdf 16. Instrument panel rattle - NV002_06.pdf 17. 5W20 oil recommendation - EG006_06.pdf 18. Front seat squeak noise - NV001_06.pdf 19. TPMS diagnostics etc. - PG001_07.pdf __________________________________________________________ The following are not TSBs, but good information to have. FRONT AND REAR BRAKE EXPLODED VIEW (from and RX330, but I believe RX400 is the same) front_brake_component.pdf rear_brake_component.pdf STEREO REMOVAL rx_stero_remove.pdf DEALER SELECTABLE OPTIONS (wish I knew why Lexus made it so only the dealer can adjust these) rx400h_customized_settings.pdf VOICE TEL and NAV COMMANDS (if you can get the stupid system to understand you) 2007_RX400h_Voice_Commands.pdf LexusVoiceNavwTel.pdf
  48. 2 points

    From the album: Project Nexus

    So here is the beginning of Project Nexus (Next Gen Lexus), Our 2006 Matador Red Metallic Lexus IS250 6 speed. Even by this point in May 2006 we had already started the mods. Car was color sanded and buffed by Riteway Paint and Body in Fountain Valley, Ca. then clearcoated again and machined buffed with and paint polish/sealer. that paint Custom-made DCR 3-Peice Wheels 20 x 8.5 Front and 20 x10.5 Rear with Toyo Proxies added (new TPMS sensors added to the rims) Red Chrome Outer Lips with Black Chrome Center Sections. B) Ings Lip Kit from Japan (took way tooooooo long to get) Metallic Red Tint from House of Tint in Tustin, Ca. (Only 3 Tickets so Far) Xetronic HID 12000K (Purple) H11 Headlight Conversion Xetronic HID 3000K (Blinding Yellow) H3 Foglight Conversion 5Zigen ProRacer Lugnuts and Mufflers added

    © © 2006, Serenity Sound Performance

  49. 2 points
    Folks TILT STEERING NOT OPERATING ON LS430 Just fixed mine tonight 02 LS430 Ultra. Tilt was inoperable and on lowest (and most inconvenient) setting. Took about 30 mins. 3 screws (1 bottom, 2 on front face of shroud that you must turn steering wheel 90 degrees each way to access) to remove shroud. Motor was stuck. Was making very quiet clicking noise when I tried the switch. On 02, the motor assembly is parallel and below the steering column shaft. 2 metric allen keys and the motor releases from the column in which the steering wheel can be now lifted up. This will allow the motor to be free to be manually spun and manipulated by hand to free up. There may be an E clip that is on the worm gear that may be very tight and jamming the motor. Once the motor is spun to free it's movement, you can disconnect the harness, spin the motor to get it free (gear may need to be lubricated), the motor can be repositioned in a manner to have the column tilted to the level desired. Once that's done, reassemble and enjoy. I snapped several photos that I'll included that will make it more easily to visualize. Studying it and determining the cause took about 1 hour. Once you know what you need to do, job should take appx 30 mins or less, assuming you have the correct tools and are mechanically inclined. This is the view from the left side of the column. Remove the gold colored hex head bolt which releases the harness. The black hex head screw to the lower right of that is the right motor captive screw to be removed. This is the view from the bottom. A black colored hex head cover screw which contains a small spring and guide has been removed. The worm gear (long straight expoosed screw like mechanism) is attached to the tilt motor. The E clip that was jamming the motor was located on the worm gear (motor is at the top of the photo, worm gear is attached to the shaft of the motor, E clip is located (removed in this photo) in the area just above where the gear threads begin. View from the right of the steering column. Black hex head screw in middle of photo is the right captive screw on the motor. Email or message me with questions. Best Rick
  50. 2 points
    It works on the 08 IS 350. I just did it. 1) open the car door, get in and close the door, pull the seat belt around and hold it without clicking it home. 2) hit the start button twice with foot off the brake. 3) right away depress the odometer reset button and hold for 10-30 seconds. 4) click home the seat belt. the on off toggle thing comes up on the odometer. select off. wait for the odometer to set. turn the car off.


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