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  1. 3 points
    I made the DIY because I couldn't find one specifically for the RX330. Lexus also apparently think no RX330 owner would ever change their own oil because they don't tell you how to locate the oil dilter and drain plug in the owner's manual. I hope others find this useful. Please comment. I have a 2004 RX330 and after 23,000 miles, I've decided I'm going to do minor maintenance myself. You'll need: - 5qts of 5w-30 oil - oil filter (see info below) - drain plug gasket (see info below) - 10mm socket wrench - 14mm socket wrench - oil catch container - oil filter wrench (I used the nylon strap which seems pretty versitile) - either jack stands or ramps - funnel - rags to soak up dripping oil Part numbers: Lexus parts: 90430-12031 - Gasket Oil Drain Plug 90915-YZZD1-01 - Oil Filter - 6 Cylinder Toyota equivalent: 904-3012028 or 3012031 drain plug gasket $1.04 089-2202011 oil filter $4.99 1) Jack up the front of your car on stands or use ramps. The RX330 weighs 3850 lbs so make sure your ramps/stands can handle it. You might be able to get away without raising it if you slide on the floor, but it's tight. 2) Pop your hood and unscrew off the oil cap. I stuck a yellow funnel in mine. Notice the yellow dip stick on the left. 3) Lexus put some cosmetic plastic panels to make the "less car savy" believe the car is a magic transportation pod with no ugly mechanical internals. You'll need to remove two of them to access the filter and drain plug. The orange highlight is the panel that hides the filter, and the purple arrow shows where the panel that hides the drain plug is. 4) Get under the car to look for the drain plug panel (purple arrow in above picture). The panel will look like this. Remove all the 10mm bolts. 5) With the panel removed, the drain plug is revealed. Get a 14mm socket wrench and loosen the bolt. Position your oil catch container and remove the bolt. Lexus engineers did good.. they designed the bolt angle so the oil shoots down instead of to the side. Very nice. Remove the drain plug bolt AND its gasket. If the gasket is not on the bolt, it's probably still stuck to the oil pan. Remove the gasket and discard. 6) As the oil is draining, work on removing the panel to the oil filter (orange). Remove all the 10mm bolts (red arrows). 7) There are two plastic clips (green arrows) also holding this panel on. Using a flathead screwdriver, carefully pry up the center part of the clip just a little. This will loosen the clip and the whole clip can be pulled out. 8) Pull off the panel. The other panels will be overlapped over it, but they flex enough to allow you to remove it. This is what it looks like without the panel. 9) After the oil is done draining, put the new gasket on the bolt and replace the bolt. Tighten the bolt for a good seal but don't over tighten. I don't know the official torque yet. Wipe up the oily bolt. UPDATE: I got the Lexus service info... Torque the drain plug to 33ft-lbs (45Nm, 459 kgf-cm) 10) With the panel off, you can now see the oil filter (orange) and a nice gift from the Lexus engineers: an oil catch (green). Loosen the filter, and residual oil will drip out. The oil catch will guide the dripping oil out the oilpan/drainplug panel so position your oil catch below the catch. 11) On the new filter, dab a layer of fresh oil on the O-ring (the rubber ring around the outer lip of the open end of the filter). Align the threads of the new filter and spin it by hand onto the engine where the old filter was. When it makes contact, tighten by hand another 3/4 turn. Don't over tighten. 12) Wipe up oil drips. For me, even though the catch was there, some oil still dripped all over the exhaust pipe and panels. Wipe this up. 13) Fill the engine with 5w-30 oil, 5 qts. A funnel is helpful here. 14) Replace oil cap. 15) Replace both plastic panels. 16) Shut hood and drive around the block. Park the car on level ground and wait 15 minutes. Check for leaks and oil level. I hope this is helpful to someone. ...
  2. 3 points
    This was requested by a member in another thread. Another member responded that this would be difficult to do because everyone uses different products and he is right. But in all honesty there really is a set sequence of steps that are done when you detail properly. There is some variance in product usage, but not in the technique. First of all I'm going to mention several different possibilities of products used for each step. You'll notice that most of these products are professional grade and probably will have to be ordered online. That is because in my experience the consumer products are just that, designed for consumers who don't know or care about having the best finish possible. Professional grade products give the experienced hobbyist and professional detailer greater control over what is being done with the paint. Here are the ESSENTIALS you will NEED these to get started. -Several Microfiber towels, I say 6, 3 small 3 big. I reccomend them from our site www.lexuscarcare.com or www.pakshak.com. MF will be mush less prone to scratch than cotton. -Several 100% cotton bath towels, 3 or so. These will be used folded up to work in swirl removers and polish because they have more "bite" than MF. MF will be used for removal. -Several foam and MF applicators, you can get these where you get the towels. -Eagle one Tire Swipes for spplying dressing to tires -A semi stiff brush for tires and wheel wells -2 nice 5 gallon buckets -Some sort of paint cleaner like Meguiars #9, #82 Swirl Free Polish, 1Z Paint Polishes (which work very well by hand) -Some sort of polish like Meguiars #7, P21S Gloss Enhancing Paintwork Cleanser, #81 Hand Polish from Meguiars. -Some sort of wax. We're following a carnuaba/hybrid system here as thats whats best to use if you're only working by hand. So something like Meguiars #26 Tech Wax paste, P21S, or Meguiars NXT, Poorboys EX or EX-P, Blackfire woul\d work well -Glass cleaner- I reccomend Eagle One's 20/20. -An all purpose cleaner like 1Z Cockpit Premium for the interior plastic and carpeting with a nice soft brush. -Woolite and water dilluted 5:1 for leather -A good tire dressing for the tires and the wheel wells after they are washed. Things that would be NICE: -A Porter Cable dual action polisher with 2 cutting pads, 2 polishing pads, and 1 finishing pad. Its tempting to buy a cheaper buffer from Sears or Pepboys or something but trust me when I tell you, if you want the best and safest results the PC is worth the investment. Cheap buffers (Waxxpro, Craftsman) have weak motors that bog down and cumbersome bonnet type systems that either remove too much or not enough paint. If you're gonna spend the bucks anyways, spend twice as much and get the right tool for the job. -A higher cut compound for real swirl removal with the PC like Meguiars #83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish, Poorboys SSR2, Menzerna Intensive Polish -A Bissel Little Green Clean Machine for cleaning carpeting -Plexus plastic polish for all clear plastic -Clay (ClayMagic or Mothers) First clean the interior. Spray the all purpose cleaner on all plastic parts, agitate with the soft brush and wipe clean, use the woolite on the seats and wipe off with a damp towel. Vacuum the carpets well and spray the cleaner and agitate of needed. Pay attention to the nooks and crannys! Always do the interior first so you dont get dust on clean paint. Now, nextthing to do is wash with a good carwash using a good Microfiber, Chenile or Lanswool mitt. Use two buckets, one with soapy water and one with clean for rinsing the mitt after each pass. Wash in straight lines only, never touch the paint in circles. Wash from the top down then do the wheels last as that is where the most grime is, you don't want to drag that up onto the paint. If its hot rinse each panel after washing it. Dont forget to scrub the wheel wells! Next if you have the clay, clay now. Resoap each panel, clay, rinse until the whole car and the windows are done. Now dry the car using your MF towels, use two towels again in straight lines until the car is dry. Now, dress the wheel wells by spraying the protectant up inside them, then spray the protectant on the tire swipe and do the tires. I always do this before the next steps so it doesn't leave overspray on the car. Now its time to start detailing! If you have moderate to heavy swirls and you have the PC start with it, the DACP and a cutting pad, only work 2'x2' sections at a time. Don't use too much DACP, 3-4 dime sized drops a panel is plenty. Make each section look its best before moving on. Use the PC at high speed (5 or 6) and use random overlapping strokes with moderate pressure until the product almost dissapears. The swirls will come out it just may take time. This stage could take hours so be ready for that but the results are worth it. Work your way around the car, when it stops working as well swap out the pad for a clean cutting pad thats why you have two. If the swirls aren't bad use DACP with a polishing pad instead in the same way. If working by hand fold up one of the terry towels into 8ths, apply the #9 or #82 and work into the paint using moderate pressure. Again work 2x2 sections until almost clean and make each section look its best before moving on. This will not remove all swirls but thats left to later steps to hide. If you used the DACP and a cutting pad then you need to go around with DACP and #9 or #82 and a polishing pad afterwards as DACP and a cutting pad will leave micromarring behind. Next, polishing! If you have the buffer use a clean polishing pad and your polish of choice, use it like the DACP but you don't have to work it as long. If by hand same deal, fold up a terry towel and go to town. Now, stand back and admire the work. The paint should be perfect now, no swirls, smooth as glass, good proper color. This is where you look for areas of problems and do them again until it looks right. Now comes the waxing! You can wax by hand or by PC with the finishing pad. Use straight lines and put down a thin coat. Wait depending on the instructions on the wax then buff off IN STRAIGHT lines with an MF towel. Layer and add coats as you see fit. Don't forget to wax the wheels. Next is windows. Get your 20/20 and some paper towels, and newspaper. Spray the 20/20 on the paper towel until its soaked, then scrub it into the window. Next, wipe clean with the newspaper, inside and out all the way around. You can now wax the windows if you'd like but its not neccisary. Now thats it, you're done, sit back and admire your work. Watch for missed patches of wax and wax stuck in creases and crevices. Congratulations!
  3. 2 points
    Trevor, Thanks for the info. You were correct, I had not connected the temp sender wire. It is a bugger of a thing to locate and even more difficult to fit the connector when the entire loom is in situ. The sender unit is tucked in behind the plastic spark plug channel. Done now, so everything is fine. Thanks again, Alan.
  4. 2 points
    I discovered this article today, thanks to a member at ClubLexus. I went and made a scan of my copy, thanks to his discovery. I don't suppose it would hurt to post it here:
  5. 2 points
    Thanks for the posting! We always like new information. Paul
  6. 2 points
    Hi Nathan. I apologize for not connecting with you sooner. I am always amazed at the depth of friendship and caring that can be built with someone you have never met nor never knew what they looked like. The LOC is a place where those who enjoy their hobby can find others who like swapping stories with like minded friends. Landar was a great part of the LOC and was a great source of Lexus info and technical help. Thank you for letting us share your journey. Paul
  7. 2 points
    Incredible shots Steve!!. Looks like a wonderful trip.
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  10. 2 points

    From the album: Project Nexus

    So here is the beginning of Project Nexus (Next Gen Lexus), Our 2006 Matador Red Metallic Lexus IS250 6 speed. Even by this point in May 2006 we had already started the mods. Car was color sanded and buffed by Riteway Paint and Body in Fountain Valley, Ca. then clearcoated again and machined buffed with and paint polish/sealer. that paint Custom-made DCR 3-Peice Wheels 20 x 8.5 Front and 20 x10.5 Rear with Toyo Proxies added (new TPMS sensors added to the rims) Red Chrome Outer Lips with Black Chrome Center Sections. B) Ings Lip Kit from Japan (took way tooooooo long to get) Metallic Red Tint from House of Tint in Tustin, Ca. (Only 3 Tickets so Far) Xetronic HID 12000K (Purple) H11 Headlight Conversion Xetronic HID 3000K (Blinding Yellow) H3 Foglight Conversion 5Zigen ProRacer Lugnuts and Mufflers added

    © © 2006, Serenity Sound Performance

  11. 1 point
    I bought the Polk Audio DB840 8" replacement speaker that is named in youtube videos about replacing the Mark Levinson subwoofer. There is some discussion about replacing a Mark Levinson speaker with an aftermarket speaker. I went with the Polk($54.00) and it sounds fine. Does is sound as good? I couldn't say because before I replaced the ML blown subwoofer I didn't think to study up on the quality of the sound. I installed the Polk and it sounds fine, maybe great. That's very subjective. But it does sound like a high quality and working speaker system. Interesting comment is that the price of the Mark Levinson is in the design and not the hardware. Old ML speaker weighs much less than the Polk but does not seem to have any distinguishing or different features. Thus end that debate for me. Polk ($54.00 ) vs. ML(used -$300.00 - minimum) R&R pretty simple. if by the time you read this , youtube videos still around, they can walk you thru it. One video has you removing rubber ring around new Polk speaker, one has you keeping it. I kept it and modified plastic bracket that goes BELOW speaker and allows speaker to seat properly on car deck.. This is the bracket that screws onto your rear deck . I secured this bracket with 3 little screws drilled into the plastic. Don't let these screws be too long as they will hit metal rear decking of car. Otherwise any little screw will suffice. The other bracket that is attached to ML assembly is no longer needed. to restate: you throw away one of 2 ML brackets and use only the bracket which screws into car rear deck. drill new holes thur existing holes in Polk speaker and into plastic bracket to secure speaker to this bracket. I only used 3 screws. Like someone said this will only be critical if you roll the car. I don't know the electronics theory but I followed instructions for 'shorting' voice mail coil. Why do that , I don't know? Does it have to be done, I don't know either? Its simple though. Get some wire crimpers and connectors and some short speaker wire and get after it. It took me around 3 hours. if I knew what I was doing , under 2 easy . Seat removal is simple. However when you start removing and reinstalling trim which is seated with those plastic punch pins, It gets a little frustrating. It is of course not automatic that you can line up pins with holes in car's sheet metal.
  12. 1 point
    ok, I have a 99ls, bought in early 2010, I wrapped my alternator in a clorex bottle and it has been working for 7 years now
  13. 1 point
    Good to know about the key hole. I'll tap on it harder to try to secure it better too.
  14. 1 point
    dcfish? Whoa! That's a blast from the past. There have been people looking for you asking about navigation and audio systems. I still drop by this forum once a month or so and sometimes try to help. There's not much in the current Lexus lineup of interest to us. Somebody in Nebraska is driving the 2000 LS400 I sold in 2014 ... wish he would change the name/address associated with the car so Lexus wouldn't contact me about it. My daily driver is still the "Lexus of Minivans" - suits us perfectly for our lifestyle these days. Nice to hear from you!
  15. 1 point
    Thanks for the reply. I am having all looked at on Wednesday. I shared your thought on the issues. I appreciate it! Thanks again.
  16. 1 point
    Oh wow! a fascinating country to visit....make sure you post up some photos, especially if you visit the Lexus factory
  17. 1 point
    Yeah, the very inside of the back tires will rub pretty easily on the spring perch if you're not careful with your tire size, especially with a more square tire tread. looks like your current tires are pretty rounded on the inside... the fronts can fit whatever pretty easily.
  18. 1 point
    I think you're stuck with 235/65r17's as your biggest, I had the next gen 235/55r19's and they would sometimes rub going around corners. I can only fit 265/70r17 cause I put 2012 highlander rear struts in it. That leaves you just over 29".
  19. 1 point
    Sweet ride. I bought mine earlier this year with 234,000 miles and it was still a steal. I love my car. My GF named her "Lady Pearl." Changed the Timing Belt, had paint correction done, repaired an outer tie rod and not much more. If you decide to keep it, it should serve you well. Paul
  20. 1 point
    salmoncheese, That intermittent statement you left out of your first post suggests another issue that was present in that generation ES. There is a relay in the engine compartment fuse box labelled "magnetic clutch" (I believe) that turns the AC compressor on and off. When it went bad, your interior fan still blew air, but the AC compressor wouldn't turn to move the refrigerant = no cooling. It usually made the dash AC button light flash repeatedly. If your relay (less than $20 to buy) is cutting in and out that could explain your problem. There is an updated part number for that relay meaning the newer one fixes the issue the old part had and shouldn't ever fail in the future. You still could have an issue with a temperature sensor or a faulty mixing door actuator, but I'd start with my first two suggestions ... and have an AC expert (not necessarily a Lexus one) check the system out. Gene
  21. 1 point
    Selling a mint condition 2004 SC430 red convertible. Has a low 14,500 miles with an excellent service history. Bone stock, no modifications to the vehicle whatsoever. Great sounding v8 has a low throaty rumble than the quiet LS430’s. Car comes with some extras for storage in the winter months. Very clean car inside and out. Engine bay and undercarriage has absolutely no rust or corrosion. Both owners of this car took great care of it, not driving it in rain or salty roads. Everything on the car works as the first day it was sold. Maintenance has been well cared for as all oil changes were done well under 3000 miles with Mobil1 full synthetic. The timing belt is the exception as the car was not driven hard and stored in climate controlled garages. Has a clean CARFAX record. Exterior: Original paint with little to no swirls. Has not been polished, only washed and waxed by hand. No parking dings/dents have occurred. Headlights and tail lights are not fogged and do not have condensation. Windshield and side mirrors has no pits from road debris. Interior: Very supple leather, no scratches or frayed stitching, very soft. Steering wheel does not show any sign of wear or dents in the wood. Comes with aftermarket rubber floor mats for easy cleaning. Service History... 1st Owner: Recommended service history performed by Lexus of Mishawaka, logs are on lexus website. 2nd Owner: Recommended service history performed by owner every 3000 miles using Mobil1 Full Synthetic. Brake fluid was also changed. New battery was put in early August 2017. Purchased lightly used Bridgestone Continentals (dated 1212). A little bit about the owners... 1st Owner: A doctor from Warsaw, IN bought this car from Lexus of Mishawaka in 2004. Kept the car in climate controlled storage with a car jacket and taken out only during the summers. Never drove it in the rain or snow. Never took it out until May or June when the roads were clear of salt. 2nd Owner: An engineer from Granger, IN took possession on June 2015. A well known lexus enthusiast on the lexusownersclub forum unfortunately passed away. He babied it and continued to keep it well kept in a garage, sealed in a full car jacket with desiccant packs. It has been taken out only in summer months around May to October. Never taken out in rain or snow. Some extras to go along with… Bridgestone Potenza Run Flats - 4 set with factory Lexus SC430 rims, tread is worn, some light curb damage to rims Front Rubber Floor Mats Wheel Lock Key Kobalt Electric Air Pump- Does not come with a spare tire Fully enclosed Car Jacket- S3-1819 with desiccant packs KBB values it at $20,500 but does not take into account of its storage history and extras. Asking $23,000. Prefer buyer in person with cashier’s check or bank transfer. Able to negotiate on price. Buyer needs to arrange pick up before October otherwise it will stay in winter storage until May of 2018.
  22. 1 point
    I sold my nearly cosmetically and mechanically perfect 2000 LS400 Platinum Series "SF" (heated seats, originally had Nakamichi audio) in Spring, 2014 for $4999. It was at just under 180,000 miles and virtually flawless inside and out - always garaged. The car looked like it just rolled off the showroom floor. The $4999 included flawless chrome OEM Platinum wheels and extra aftermarket wheels with winter tires. All eight tires were in excellent condition. Professionally maintained with full documentation. Synthetic engine oil changes every 5,000 mlles and transmission/differential fluid changes every 30,000 miles. The Nakamichi head unit had been professionally replaced with a modern aftermarket screen based in-dash system with Bluetooth handsfree phone and A2DP wireless audio steaming, iPod control, Pandora interface and many other features including provision for satellite radio and backup camera. The attached photo was taken a few days before I sold the car. What is yours like?
  23. 1 point
    The 03 has the 5 speed, the 04 got the 6 speed. The steering wheel and armrest are in bad shape but if the rest of the car checks out you can always find those in a junk yard or ebay. The price is good IMO. Is that an aftermarket rear view camera?
  24. 1 point
    Hi David, I'm guessing that your trouble is setting your seat, steering wheel height, and steering wheel column angle. There are 10 settings for the seat alone, In your manual you'll see the forward and backward setting, lumbar support, seat back position, seat cushion up and down. The adjustment for the steering wheel height is the most in need of upward movement. There are a crazy number of adjustments you can set to 'on' or 'off'. Take out your owners manual and sit in the car and have some fun. We love our RX. Paul
  25. 1 point
    ou1, Never used this service myself, but give "PartRequest.com" a try. They have an 800 phone number as well as an online request list that searches all of North America's wrecking yards for you. Its out there somewhere. Good Luck!
  26. 1 point
    Hi Trevor, It feels like this market will remain fluid for sometime yet. In the US I think that one of the factors for this market are the need to meet ongoing mandates for pollution emission, fuel economy and safety regulations. I'm pleased that the major makes are taking the lead for these technical challenges. Here in Des Moines a few of the downtown parking ramps have installed just a few electrical charging stations. I wonder who will pick up the tab to install many more connections. Some time ago I read an article that said Hawaii had begun testing hydrogen fuel cell cars and the experience of recharging our changing empty cells at a retrofitted gas station. Paul
  27. 1 point
    The optional LED headlamps of the 2013 GS450h aren't necessarily better than the HID headlamps you have now. As the IIHS has found in their tests, there is no correlation between light source type (halogen, HID, LED) and performance: http://www.iihs.org/iihs/ratings The IIHS found that optional headlight systems were often worse that the standard systems. IMO, your best move is simply to verify that your headlamps are working correctly and aimed properly. Modern headlamps have become too complex to muck with - not like the old days of standard headlamp unit sizes in North America when one could slap a set of E-code Cibie or Hella units into a car and get a vast improvement. I did that on countless vehicles. I wish the IIHS would test the headlights of all vehicles. I'm getting tired of blindly (pun intended) buying vehicles with HID and LED headlights and just hoping they will be good.
  28. 1 point
    HEY GUYS - Back after at least 5 years absence! Recently took a stroll down memory lane on good old LOC reading some very fun old posts. What a hoot ! And I remember the huge Braintrust here as well, excellent 0 cost advice from some of you old Lex-gurus. Much of it better than a lot Stealers... So, shout out to all my old buds- u guys still here? Would love to start some crazy fun threads like the old days... it would be a hoot. Here's what I'm talkin bout: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/topic/50096-and-now-for-something-different/ http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/topic/49953-service/?tab=comments#comment-322157 http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/topic/49756-another-reason-the-ls-is-a-tank/?tab=comments#comment-320612 http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/topic/48610-picture-association-game/?page=3 Good times. I know you can't go back but... Hey...Cheers anyway . eatingupblacktop JENunnez jcrome04 raymsixsix dcfish smooth1 And others I can't think of. You guys there? Anyone home? Well if not, Cheers anyway.
  29. 1 point
    Actually my cell phone has the option to call then pause for an extension and it works fine....I am going to try to just transfer the the number/extension from my cell phone using a blutooth app on my phone to transfer to the nav system in the rx400, maybe that will work. I know directly inputting the number into the nav didn't work
  30. 1 point
    Thanks guys! I got it posted. It is the SC from that post.
  31. 1 point
    Nathan, I knew the prognosis was not good but I was hoping your father would somehow make it through this. We PM'ed about it on the last day he was active on this forum. I would have liked to have met Randy in person but didn't know how to contact him after he dropped off the forum. Randy was incredibly helpful to others on this forum and it was always great fun to "talk" with him by PM. I assume you are talking about the red SC430: Perhaps a local Lexus dealer could provide suggestions on selling it or even sell it for you. Or maybe there is a business where you live that specializes in selling older pristine special interest cars on consignment. I'll bet this SC would sell in an instant if it was on a showroom floor.
  32. 1 point
    Time to get it diagnosed. If you don't have that ability than you need to find a reputable shop. If you do start with an ammeter between the negative cable and battery negative and measure the amount of currant that is drawing while everything is off. than one by one remove fuses and see which one effects the currant draw. This will help you diagnose which system in the car is causing the currant drain. Be aware that there is always a very small current drain for the security system. But if you see a large drain (1 amp or larger ) than there might be a issue. quick things to check are dome light, and cargo area light, they can draw a lot of juice if left on by mistake.
  33. 1 point
    Sorry forgot to attach the photo of the timing belt record sticker, its difficult to read Overrunning of the alternator pulley is highly unlikely since i installed a brand new alternator which came with the pulley
  34. 1 point
    Thanks Trevor, I really like them as well. Bums me out so many people don't upgrade wheels these days anymore, but I still have to have big wheels on the rides....:) Thanks again!
  35. 1 point
    When I had begun to explain how those QAS capacitors used in the ECU were risky several years ago, almost no one has paid any attention nor understood me. May be because my English was limited. But LScowboyLS was the first guy who understood me well and also he had succeeded to fix his LS400's ECU. Then he decided to started the thread," All my crazy Lexus issues SOLVED!! (ECU-leaking capacitor)". As a Japanese engineer myself and a guy who knows some behind scenes of the car, I recommend you to replace those capacitors for a preventive measure. If you are not good at the soldering work, ask him for a help. He does have good knowledges, skills and the experience. My intention is to keep our precious LS400/Celsior on the road longer. One of the most serious problems is the ECU capacitors issue and I suggest you to replace those before the board is damaged by the leaked liquid which is very strong alkali.
  36. 1 point
    Ignition caps and rotors (and wires) are a bit of a pain to do after the TB job, but not impossible. The biggest hassle is getting to the bolts that hold the plastics on at the front side of the engine. For the wheel locks, look in the tool kit inside the trunk. It has its own spot for it with the tool kit. If you have the owners manual set, look through for wheel lock info. McGard in NY State still makes replacement wheel lock keys if you have the key code, and you can order one from them. Maybe consider a second one to keep with your tools at home and as a back up--they're inexpensive. Otherwise, the one time I had to get the wheel lock off without they key, I hammered a large socket (7/8"?) over the whole tapered lug nut, then was able to remove with a 1/2" breaker bar. Stock headlights on the early cars are pretty horrid. A lot of it has to do with the stock bulb 9004 fitment ('93-94 cars went to an 9003/H4). The rest of it has to do with the optics of the headlight, itself. I switched to a set of clear-style headlights made by Eagle Eyes (bought them a few years back online); H4 lamp (you'll need to convert or adapt your connector), good optics, giving off a decent impression of a proper E-code beam pattern. '93-'94 cars have slightly better stock headlights, and might be worth trying out if you can get them cheaply enough in the junkyard. For the rest of your electrical maladies, if there's an electrical section in your shop manuals, start there.
  37. 1 point
    Welcome aboard, Hey it is a 27 year old car, but a great one. Do a search on these forums and you will be rewarded with lots of help. There are some very knowledgeable people on the LS400 on this site. Hopefully they will chip in.
  38. 1 point
    The belt can go easily to 125k miles, but 90k is the mark. Totally agree have the water pump and idlers replaced. The normal place to find replacement is a sticker on the front cam cover facing the top so you can see it. If no sticker, than it may not have been done. YOu can also set up a account with Vin # on MYLEXUS. Sometimes there are maintenance entries if they had service done at LEXUS dealership.
  39. 1 point
    I answered your "shaking" question, read it..
  40. 1 point
    Thanks Celsi0r Ok . So another day done. New fuel pump and filter installed as the old one literally looked 25 years old..Replaced the circuit open relay and viola. She sprang to life. SOunds good, runs good..A little fumey but thats to be expected for something that has sat for so long. This celsior only has 95000 kms on the clock. I let it idle for a while and she began to hunt ever so slightly. So there are still some issues here. I will clean the iacv and throttle body/ Ill see whats up soon enough.
  41. 1 point
    I just had the same type of issue with our 2001 LS430, i needed to replace the wiring harness for the knock sensors also as there were signs of dry rot and wiring exposed causing additional electrical current draw. Hope that it may help your problem.
  42. 1 point
    Just dropped my 2008 RX 400H of at the dealer for soggy headlight replacement. The service writer didn't believe it was covered so he looked it up. It's still covered under the "warranty enhancement program". It's 9 years from the first day it was put in service. That covers me and hopefully some others who haven't looked at this thread in a long time. Good luck!
  43. 1 point
    Anyone know best way to repair 2002 Lexus ES300 Rear Mark Levinson speaker - Heard Simply Speakers has a repair foam kit. Just wondering how easy is it to remove original speaker and install this kit?
  44. 1 point
    http://youtu.be/vqVMf8uauhs Video by Simplyaddtions
  45. 1 point

    From the album: Artwork

    Artwork I created, based off of the Pixel Car Art 1990 Lexus LS400.

    © 2015

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