Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/28/2013 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    I made the DIY because I couldn't find one specifically for the RX330. Lexus also apparently think no RX330 owner would ever change their own oil because they don't tell you how to locate the oil dilter and drain plug in the owner's manual. I hope others find this useful. Please comment. I have a 2004 RX330 and after 23,000 miles, I've decided I'm going to do minor maintenance myself. You'll need: - 5qts of 5w-30 oil - oil filter (see info below) - drain plug gasket (see info below) - 10mm socket wrench - 14mm socket wrench - oil catch container - oil filter wrench (I used the nylon strap which seems pretty versitile) - either jack stands or ramps - funnel - rags to soak up dripping oil Part numbers: Lexus parts: 90430-12031 - Gasket Oil Drain Plug 90915-YZZD1-01 - Oil Filter - 6 Cylinder Toyota equivalent: 904-3012028 or 3012031 drain plug gasket $1.04 089-2202011 oil filter $4.99 1) Jack up the front of your car on stands or use ramps. The RX330 weighs 3850 lbs so make sure your ramps/stands can handle it. You might be able to get away without raising it if you slide on the floor, but it's tight. 2) Pop your hood and unscrew off the oil cap. I stuck a yellow funnel in mine. Notice the yellow dip stick on the left. 3) Lexus put some cosmetic plastic panels to make the "less car savy" believe the car is a magic transportation pod with no ugly mechanical internals. You'll need to remove two of them to access the filter and drain plug. The orange highlight is the panel that hides the filter, and the purple arrow shows where the panel that hides the drain plug is. 4) Get under the car to look for the drain plug panel (purple arrow in above picture). The panel will look like this. Remove all the 10mm bolts. 5) With the panel removed, the drain plug is revealed. Get a 14mm socket wrench and loosen the bolt. Position your oil catch container and remove the bolt. Lexus engineers did good.. they designed the bolt angle so the oil shoots down instead of to the side. Very nice. Remove the drain plug bolt AND its gasket. If the gasket is not on the bolt, it's probably still stuck to the oil pan. Remove the gasket and discard. 6) As the oil is draining, work on removing the panel to the oil filter (orange). Remove all the 10mm bolts (red arrows). 7) There are two plastic clips (green arrows) also holding this panel on. Using a flathead screwdriver, carefully pry up the center part of the clip just a little. This will loosen the clip and the whole clip can be pulled out. 8) Pull off the panel. The other panels will be overlapped over it, but they flex enough to allow you to remove it. This is what it looks like without the panel. 9) After the oil is done draining, put the new gasket on the bolt and replace the bolt. Tighten the bolt for a good seal but don't over tighten. I don't know the official torque yet. Wipe up the oily bolt. UPDATE: I got the Lexus service info... Torque the drain plug to 33ft-lbs (45Nm, 459 kgf-cm) 10) With the panel off, you can now see the oil filter (orange) and a nice gift from the Lexus engineers: an oil catch (green). Loosen the filter, and residual oil will drip out. The oil catch will guide the dripping oil out the oilpan/drainplug panel so position your oil catch below the catch. 11) On the new filter, dab a layer of fresh oil on the O-ring (the rubber ring around the outer lip of the open end of the filter). Align the threads of the new filter and spin it by hand onto the engine where the old filter was. When it makes contact, tighten by hand another 3/4 turn. Don't over tighten. 12) Wipe up oil drips. For me, even though the catch was there, some oil still dripped all over the exhaust pipe and panels. Wipe this up. 13) Fill the engine with 5w-30 oil, 5 qts. A funnel is helpful here. 14) Replace oil cap. 15) Replace both plastic panels. 16) Shut hood and drive around the block. Park the car on level ground and wait 15 minutes. Check for leaks and oil level. I hope this is helpful to someone. ...
  2. 3 points
    This was requested by a member in another thread. Another member responded that this would be difficult to do because everyone uses different products and he is right. But in all honesty there really is a set sequence of steps that are done when you detail properly. There is some variance in product usage, but not in the technique. First of all I'm going to mention several different possibilities of products used for each step. You'll notice that most of these products are professional grade and probably will have to be ordered online. That is because in my experience the consumer products are just that, designed for consumers who don't know or care about having the best finish possible. Professional grade products give the experienced hobbyist and professional detailer greater control over what is being done with the paint. Here are the ESSENTIALS you will NEED these to get started. -Several Microfiber towels, I say 6, 3 small 3 big. I reccomend them from our site www.lexuscarcare.com or www.pakshak.com. MF will be mush less prone to scratch than cotton. -Several 100% cotton bath towels, 3 or so. These will be used folded up to work in swirl removers and polish because they have more "bite" than MF. MF will be used for removal. -Several foam and MF applicators, you can get these where you get the towels. -Eagle one Tire Swipes for spplying dressing to tires -A semi stiff brush for tires and wheel wells -2 nice 5 gallon buckets -Some sort of paint cleaner like Meguiars #9, #82 Swirl Free Polish, 1Z Paint Polishes (which work very well by hand) -Some sort of polish like Meguiars #7, P21S Gloss Enhancing Paintwork Cleanser, #81 Hand Polish from Meguiars. -Some sort of wax. We're following a carnuaba/hybrid system here as thats whats best to use if you're only working by hand. So something like Meguiars #26 Tech Wax paste, P21S, or Meguiars NXT, Poorboys EX or EX-P, Blackfire woul\d work well -Glass cleaner- I reccomend Eagle One's 20/20. -An all purpose cleaner like 1Z Cockpit Premium for the interior plastic and carpeting with a nice soft brush. -Woolite and water dilluted 5:1 for leather -A good tire dressing for the tires and the wheel wells after they are washed. Things that would be NICE: -A Porter Cable dual action polisher with 2 cutting pads, 2 polishing pads, and 1 finishing pad. Its tempting to buy a cheaper buffer from Sears or Pepboys or something but trust me when I tell you, if you want the best and safest results the PC is worth the investment. Cheap buffers (Waxxpro, Craftsman) have weak motors that bog down and cumbersome bonnet type systems that either remove too much or not enough paint. If you're gonna spend the bucks anyways, spend twice as much and get the right tool for the job. -A higher cut compound for real swirl removal with the PC like Meguiars #83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish, Poorboys SSR2, Menzerna Intensive Polish -A Bissel Little Green Clean Machine for cleaning carpeting -Plexus plastic polish for all clear plastic -Clay (ClayMagic or Mothers) First clean the interior. Spray the all purpose cleaner on all plastic parts, agitate with the soft brush and wipe clean, use the woolite on the seats and wipe off with a damp towel. Vacuum the carpets well and spray the cleaner and agitate of needed. Pay attention to the nooks and crannys! Always do the interior first so you dont get dust on clean paint. Now, nextthing to do is wash with a good carwash using a good Microfiber, Chenile or Lanswool mitt. Use two buckets, one with soapy water and one with clean for rinsing the mitt after each pass. Wash in straight lines only, never touch the paint in circles. Wash from the top down then do the wheels last as that is where the most grime is, you don't want to drag that up onto the paint. If its hot rinse each panel after washing it. Dont forget to scrub the wheel wells! Next if you have the clay, clay now. Resoap each panel, clay, rinse until the whole car and the windows are done. Now dry the car using your MF towels, use two towels again in straight lines until the car is dry. Now, dress the wheel wells by spraying the protectant up inside them, then spray the protectant on the tire swipe and do the tires. I always do this before the next steps so it doesn't leave overspray on the car. Now its time to start detailing! If you have moderate to heavy swirls and you have the PC start with it, the DACP and a cutting pad, only work 2'x2' sections at a time. Don't use too much DACP, 3-4 dime sized drops a panel is plenty. Make each section look its best before moving on. Use the PC at high speed (5 or 6) and use random overlapping strokes with moderate pressure until the product almost dissapears. The swirls will come out it just may take time. This stage could take hours so be ready for that but the results are worth it. Work your way around the car, when it stops working as well swap out the pad for a clean cutting pad thats why you have two. If the swirls aren't bad use DACP with a polishing pad instead in the same way. If working by hand fold up one of the terry towels into 8ths, apply the #9 or #82 and work into the paint using moderate pressure. Again work 2x2 sections until almost clean and make each section look its best before moving on. This will not remove all swirls but thats left to later steps to hide. If you used the DACP and a cutting pad then you need to go around with DACP and #9 or #82 and a polishing pad afterwards as DACP and a cutting pad will leave micromarring behind. Next, polishing! If you have the buffer use a clean polishing pad and your polish of choice, use it like the DACP but you don't have to work it as long. If by hand same deal, fold up a terry towel and go to town. Now, stand back and admire the work. The paint should be perfect now, no swirls, smooth as glass, good proper color. This is where you look for areas of problems and do them again until it looks right. Now comes the waxing! You can wax by hand or by PC with the finishing pad. Use straight lines and put down a thin coat. Wait depending on the instructions on the wax then buff off IN STRAIGHT lines with an MF towel. Layer and add coats as you see fit. Don't forget to wax the wheels. Next is windows. Get your 20/20 and some paper towels, and newspaper. Spray the 20/20 on the paper towel until its soaked, then scrub it into the window. Next, wipe clean with the newspaper, inside and out all the way around. You can now wax the windows if you'd like but its not neccisary. Now thats it, you're done, sit back and admire your work. Watch for missed patches of wax and wax stuck in creases and crevices. Congratulations!
  3. 2 points
    Trevor, Thanks for the info. You were correct, I had not connected the temp sender wire. It is a bugger of a thing to locate and even more difficult to fit the connector when the entire loom is in situ. The sender unit is tucked in behind the plastic spark plug channel. Done now, so everything is fine. Thanks again, Alan.
  4. 2 points
    I discovered this article today, thanks to a member at ClubLexus. I went and made a scan of my copy, thanks to his discovery. I don't suppose it would hurt to post it here:
  5. 2 points
    Thanks for the posting! We always like new information. Paul
  6. 2 points
    Hi Nathan. I apologize for not connecting with you sooner. I am always amazed at the depth of friendship and caring that can be built with someone you have never met nor never knew what they looked like. The LOC is a place where those who enjoy their hobby can find others who like swapping stories with like minded friends. Landar was a great part of the LOC and was a great source of Lexus info and technical help. Thank you for letting us share your journey. Paul
  7. 2 points
    Incredible shots Steve!!. Looks like a wonderful trip.
  8. 2 points
    Hey guys i made a small video on how to replace the plastic coolant tees that get brittle with age and can crack / leak / break / leave you stranded. Its a fairly straight forward process, everything is covered in the video from tools to parts. If you have any questions let me know. Parts needed for this job: (1) Gallon of coolant - PN# 00272-1LLAC-01 (2) Coolant Tees - PN# 87248-60460 Optional, highly recommended parts for this job: (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A220 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A210 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A190 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A180 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A800 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 99556-20155
  9. 2 points
    I have NO connection with this automobile.... just showing others JDM RHD TOYOTA CELSIOR VIP SEDAN V8 LS400 JAPAN IMPORT TEXAS TITLE look: https://easttexas.craigslist.org/cto/6180839156.html
  10. 2 points
  11. 2 points
  12. 2 points

    From the album: Project Nexus

    So here is the beginning of Project Nexus (Next Gen Lexus), Our 2006 Matador Red Metallic Lexus IS250 6 speed. Even by this point in May 2006 we had already started the mods. Car was color sanded and buffed by Riteway Paint and Body in Fountain Valley, Ca. then clearcoated again and machined buffed with and paint polish/sealer. that paint Custom-made DCR 3-Peice Wheels 20 x 8.5 Front and 20 x10.5 Rear with Toyo Proxies added (new TPMS sensors added to the rims) Red Chrome Outer Lips with Black Chrome Center Sections. B) Ings Lip Kit from Japan (took way tooooooo long to get) Metallic Red Tint from House of Tint in Tustin, Ca. (Only 3 Tickets so Far) Xetronic HID 12000K (Purple) H11 Headlight Conversion Xetronic HID 3000K (Blinding Yellow) H3 Foglight Conversion 5Zigen ProRacer Lugnuts and Mufflers added

    © © 2006, Serenity Sound Performance

  13. 1 point
    Changed the battery and now my dashboard and all electronic out car will not shift into gear but is running. Now it won' even start and run today? Help please single mom of 5 need my car running great. Any ideas?
  14. 1 point
    ok, I have a 99ls, bought in early 2010, I wrapped my alternator in a clorex bottle and it has been working for 7 years now
  15. 1 point
    I always apply some PTFE tape (plumbers use it for pipe joints) to the sump plug thread....never had a leak on anything ever since. This originally came about when I owned a Land Cruiser and the Toyota dealer asked whether I wanted the soft or hard compound seal for the plug. I foolishly chose the hard compound and leaked like a sieve. Someone suggested removing it and wrapping a couple of turns with PTFE and it worked a treat...nowadays I use it all the time on the 'belt & braces' principle.
  16. 1 point
    Did they clean the area where is was originally leaking? Also did they clean the under panels? Maybe just more residual.
  17. 1 point
    My guess is a bad cell in the battery itself.
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    I know you are right, old satan just slips up on me sometimes too....
  20. 1 point
    Selling a mint condition 2004 SC430 red convertible. Has a low 14,500 miles with an excellent service history. Bone stock, no modifications to the vehicle whatsoever. Great sounding v8 has a low throaty rumble than the quiet LS430’s. Car comes with some extras for storage in the winter months. Very clean car inside and out. Engine bay and undercarriage has absolutely no rust or corrosion. Both owners of this car took great care of it, not driving it in rain or salty roads. Everything on the car works as the first day it was sold. Maintenance has been well cared for as all oil changes were done well under 3000 miles with Mobil1 full synthetic. The timing belt is the exception as the car was not driven hard and stored in climate controlled garages. Has a clean CARFAX record. Exterior: Original paint with little to no swirls. Has not been polished, only washed and waxed by hand. No parking dings/dents have occurred. Headlights and tail lights are not fogged and do not have condensation. Windshield and side mirrors has no pits from road debris. Interior: Very supple leather, no scratches or frayed stitching, very soft. Steering wheel does not show any sign of wear or dents in the wood. Comes with aftermarket rubber floor mats for easy cleaning. Service History... 1st Owner: Recommended service history performed by Lexus of Mishawaka, logs are on lexus website. 2nd Owner: Recommended service history performed by owner every 3000 miles using Mobil1 Full Synthetic. Brake fluid was also changed. New battery was put in early August 2017. Purchased lightly used Bridgestone Continentals (dated 1212). A little bit about the owners... 1st Owner: A doctor from Warsaw, IN bought this car from Lexus of Mishawaka in 2004. Kept the car in climate controlled storage with a car jacket and taken out only during the summers. Never drove it in the rain or snow. Never took it out until May or June when the roads were clear of salt. 2nd Owner: An engineer from Granger, IN took possession on June 2015. A well known lexus enthusiast on the lexusownersclub forum unfortunately passed away. He babied it and continued to keep it well kept in a garage, sealed in a full car jacket with desiccant packs. It has been taken out only in summer months around May to October. Never taken out in rain or snow. Some extras to go along with… Bridgestone Potenza Run Flats - 4 set with factory Lexus SC430 rims, tread is worn, some light curb damage to rims Front Rubber Floor Mats Wheel Lock Key Kobalt Electric Air Pump- Does not come with a spare tire Fully enclosed Car Jacket- S3-1819 with desiccant packs KBB values it at $20,500 but does not take into account of its storage history and extras. Asking $23,000. Prefer buyer in person with cashier’s check or bank transfer. Able to negotiate on price. Buyer needs to arrange pick up before October otherwise it will stay in winter storage until May of 2018.
  21. 1 point
    Hi, Beth-- Welcome to the group! Looked at your CL ad; your car IS a nice looking example. Not having navigation I see as a bonus on an LS, but lack of heated seats may limit its appeal outside of the south/Sunbelt states. Executive summary: What does Macy's do when they want to get shoes sold? Yes, put 'em on sale/mark it down! This also applies to your car. Why hasn't it sold? Harsh truth: It sounds like the market isn't interested in the car at your asking price, and it sounds like you're getting frustrated. I'm not a dealer (I enjoy cars waaaaaayyyy too much to do the car business for a living), but have some market observations and marketing insights I'll share: Even in the midwest, I haven't seen '98-00 cars selling private party for that kind of money often lately. I've seen two nice ones at dealers in my region in your price range with lower mileage.... and they've been sitting for months. From what I've seen ('01--02 LS430s with comparable miles are currently running anywhere from $2500-5500), you're possibly asking too much if you're wanting to move the car in a reasonable time frame. I've spent too much time lately semi-seriously looking for a '430 or '98-00 LS400 to potentially replace my LS400, so that's why I know far too much about this topic. I'm not sure what you're using as a market pricing guide for your read on the car's value to the market, but cars with money put into getting caught up on maintenance immediately prior to sale rarely get back what you put into them for major maintenance, unless you're turning the wrenches yourself. A good analogy: You've probably heard that when you do a major kitchen or bath remodel in your home, it will only net you a percentage back of what you put into it when it comes time to sell. Depending on region, 50-70% for those things is not an uncommon return on investment... As a long-time Realtor, I tell my clients to do those projects to enjoy the use and utility first and foremost, and for the resale value a distant second... but I digress. Back to your car and private party valuation: When I have sold cars myself, I typically have taken an average of Kelley Blue Book and Edmunds private-party pricing to come up with my asking prices, primarily because it's not easy to lay hands on the dealer's/your banker's NADA Blue Book or whatever industry valuation guide is commonly used there. I've found averaging KBB and Edmunds figures come out surprisingly close to market reality. In my region, KBB calls private party value with your mileage, options, condition, etc., at roughly $4500. Edmunds is usually much harder on used values, calling your car at $3100. Still, that's amazing resale value for a *19* year-old car. Averaging will likely get you closer to a sale at or near your asking price in a reasonably quick length of time. Other marketing ideas? Take *more* and better pictures for your ads, showing all angles of the car, inside and out. Try to use a real camera and not your phone, light things up/use a flash, even in daylight, so shoppers can see the condition of the interior clearly. One other crazy idea? Get the car detailed *very* well and take it to your next area car cruise night, be it for domestic or import metal. Show it off. Seriously. In a major metro area, there's plenty of people who know what your car is, and would recognize the quality and value (well, duh.. it's an LS--they clean up very well... I've taken my '94 to cruise-ins before--it was fun!). That might be a venue to consider if you want to expose it to a potentially more knowledgeable market. Can't hurt, might help. Hope this helps. Good luck! Best, Paul
  22. 1 point
    Hi David, I'm guessing that your trouble is setting your seat, steering wheel height, and steering wheel column angle. There are 10 settings for the seat alone, In your manual you'll see the forward and backward setting, lumbar support, seat back position, seat cushion up and down. The adjustment for the steering wheel height is the most in need of upward movement. There are a crazy number of adjustments you can set to 'on' or 'off'. Take out your owners manual and sit in the car and have some fun. We love our RX. Paul
  23. 1 point
    One of your driven devices is freezing up. ie the alternator, power steering pump, air conditioning compressor, or one of the idlers. Before putting belt on spin each to make sure they are free. I would suspect the air conditioning compressor when energized is the culprit.
  24. 1 point
    ou1, Never used this service myself, but give "PartRequest.com" a try. They have an 800 phone number as well as an online request list that searches all of North America's wrecking yards for you. Its out there somewhere. Good Luck!
  25. 1 point
    Hi itsdancarl, This is a bit of a long shot, since "chatter" is not clear to me. However, if you have a "clunk" when you go over a slight bump, bumpy roads, or when you are moving fairly slowly and hit the brake, soft or hard, it is possible that your front strut rod bushings are either worn out or have reached the end of their usable life. For the first generation LS400s, this bushing is a pretty thick rubber bushing (about 1") and around 3" in diameter sandwiched between two steel plates with 3 bolt holes around the perimeter, and a single one in the middle. Do not confuse this SRB with a lot of info on this forum with the other, later model SRBs, which will get very confusing in a hurry, since the later models have a different design. To replace the Gen 1 SRB, from the front of the car, at ground level, looking below the bumper, look for a large nut with a threaded bolt end facing forward near each wheel; these are on the two strut control rods which face forward and at a slight angle to the front of the car, and pass through the center of the SRB; the SRB is mounted to the frame with three smaller bolts. The strut rods are designed to help maintain the strut geometry and alignment. To change the SRB on the Gen 1 car, it would help you to first get a good idea of what you are working on, so first loosen up one front wheel, jack up the car and safely support it, then take off the front wheel and identify the steel rod, and its general direction. Once you have the wheel off, look for a steel rod about 3/4" in diameter, roughly but not quite parallel to the ground and angled slightly toward the front center of the car - this is the rod which goes through the bushing. Once you know this, you will have a pretty good idea of where the nut is and can easily locate it from the front of the car. Next, using a properly fitting socket and large ratchet (3/4") drive and a breaker bar (you will need the torque and leverage), loosen this nut. Note that there is another large nut on the other side of the bushing, and that one should not be loosened - doing that will alter your alignment characteristics, so DO NOT tinker with that second large nut. Once the front large nut is loosened, remove the three smaller (12mm or 13mm) bolts securing the SRB to the frame, and the SRB can now be removed. To get the 3 smaller bolts loose you may need to use a smaller socket drive and/or wrenches , since if I remember correctly, one of them is slightly harder to get at than the others, but not extremely so. After these 3 bolts and the front nut are taken off, you should be able to work off the bushing - the whole sandwich assembly should come off as a single unit. Installing the new SRB is simply the reverse of the removal procedure, and you may have to work a bit at getting all the holes aligned to get all the bolts re-installed. Whatever you do, don't get tempted to loosen the large nut at the back of the rod; also, do not tighten the large nut on the strut rod before the 3 bolts are installed and tightened. You should be sure to get the torque specs and use them. Finally, once the 3 bolts are torqued correctly, with the car on the stands, tighten the large nut fairly tight , but not to final torque specs - you will want to do that when the car is on the ground and the bushing is under load. This will prevent the SRB from early failure. Total time to do this (both sides) should take you an hour at the most, if you have the correct tools on hand, and you don't foul things up! Finally, I apologize for not providing the correct tool sizes and more exact instructions, since I did this a few years ago, and exact processes have been forgotten. Will try and clean this info up and post it as a how-to with pictures soon. Good Luck!!
  26. 1 point
    Update with a happy ending... So I posted this thread on many lexus blogs and several people responded that I should consider checking all the fuses. One thread suggested looking at the 30 amp AN1 fuse under the big cover in the engine area. That exact fuse was dead. I researched the circuit for that fuse and it controls the ignition including the spark plug coil. I replaced the AN1 fuse and the GX started right up but died in seconds and the fuse was blown again. It also sounded like I had a leaking exhaust manifold on the passenger side. I immediately noticed the spark plug #2 from the firewall on passenger side was coated in soot. I removed the 10mm bolt and pulled on the coil assembly and the top coil box broke away from the coil shaft connected with a tail of copper wire. I pulled on the wire and the rest of the coil shaft assembly came out including the spark plug. Thats right, the spark plug was not screwed in to the head. I replaced the coil pack with a NAPA part, added a new iridium plug, added another 30 amp fuse and it started right up and remained running. This fix ended up taking about 15 minutes and under $100, a big win win. But how in the hell did that plug get so loose. The odor I smelled was the exhaust melting the silicone boot and plastic housing. I ran codes and it came back as a spark plug coil. How awesome is it that I know not a lot about cars and a few hours on the internet and helpful suggestions from people all over got me back on the road - THANKS to all who helped.
  27. 1 point
    Hey guys. I know I've hardly been around this forum even though I'm the LX moderator. Anyways I'm excited to pick up a new to me, CPO LX this coming weekend. I'll have to familiarize myself with the topics discussed here about this vehicle.
  28. 1 point
    Possibly the receiver is damaged internally. Is there any drink spillage?
  29. 1 point
    I'm guessing that maybe a battery reset may bring the screen back to life...certainly worth trying as a starting point.
  30. 1 point
    That's exactly the way I felt so I was happy to pay it forward. Thanks for the feedback. Glad to see it worked for you too.
  31. 1 point
    You might be able to connect into the back of your mirror without having to go into your overhead console. I have a RX350 so I went into the overhead console. You will have to determine what works best for your model or find out what others did.
  32. 1 point
    When I had begun to explain how those QAS capacitors used in the ECU were risky several years ago, almost no one has paid any attention nor understood me. May be because my English was limited. But LScowboyLS was the first guy who understood me well and also he had succeeded to fix his LS400's ECU. Then he decided to started the thread," All my crazy Lexus issues SOLVED!! (ECU-leaking capacitor)". As a Japanese engineer myself and a guy who knows some behind scenes of the car, I recommend you to replace those capacitors for a preventive measure. If you are not good at the soldering work, ask him for a help. He does have good knowledges, skills and the experience. My intention is to keep our precious LS400/Celsior on the road longer. One of the most serious problems is the ECU capacitors issue and I suggest you to replace those before the board is damaged by the leaked liquid which is very strong alkali.
  33. 1 point
    Thanks Trevor. I'll keep that in mind in the future. Luckily car started after popping in a new battery. I am surprised that my battery only lasted about 2.5 years, now it got me thinking about possible issue with alternator, after all my rig now has 215k miles on it.
  34. 1 point
    Ignition caps and rotors (and wires) are a bit of a pain to do after the TB job, but not impossible. The biggest hassle is getting to the bolts that hold the plastics on at the front side of the engine. For the wheel locks, look in the tool kit inside the trunk. It has its own spot for it with the tool kit. If you have the owners manual set, look through for wheel lock info. McGard in NY State still makes replacement wheel lock keys if you have the key code, and you can order one from them. Maybe consider a second one to keep with your tools at home and as a back up--they're inexpensive. Otherwise, the one time I had to get the wheel lock off without they key, I hammered a large socket (7/8"?) over the whole tapered lug nut, then was able to remove with a 1/2" breaker bar. Stock headlights on the early cars are pretty horrid. A lot of it has to do with the stock bulb 9004 fitment ('93-94 cars went to an 9003/H4). The rest of it has to do with the optics of the headlight, itself. I switched to a set of clear-style headlights made by Eagle Eyes (bought them a few years back online); H4 lamp (you'll need to convert or adapt your connector), good optics, giving off a decent impression of a proper E-code beam pattern. '93-'94 cars have slightly better stock headlights, and might be worth trying out if you can get them cheaply enough in the junkyard. For the rest of your electrical maladies, if there's an electrical section in your shop manuals, start there.
  35. 1 point
    I did the math over the course of two months. Using 93 octane from Shell or BP in the GX improves overall mileage enough to actually save 1.3 cents per mile in fuel cost. But even if it cost a little more per mile, my butt dyno says the engine runs noticeably better with hi-test.
  36. 1 point
    Hmm, you sure it was coolant and not carb cleaner? Anyway, for me that 2 screw were the hardest ones to take out for the first time. The entire process probably closed to the amount of time you put in. After that it got easier. The screw material is software so it not careful, it could get damaged easily if too much force or the wrong tool is used. Not really sure what the purpose of that ring is, it doesn't look like a gasket to me. I guess if your car idles properly and car runs smooth, probably not a concern.
  37. 1 point
    Hi folks. I ran across this the other day and thought you would enjoy reading more good news about your decision to buy a Lexus. https://lexusenthusiast.com/2017/06/21/lexus-crossovers-named-best-luxury-value-for-canadians/
  38. 1 point
    Hey Trevor, The GS was my wife's car and I wanted a all/4 wheel drive vehicle so we decided on the RX. So far loving it. The GS seemed a little more refined but the features on the RX are great. We bought it about a month ago so we are still discovering things :~) Thanks for the welcome message! John
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point

    From the album: Artwork

    Artwork I created, based off of the Pixel Car Art 1990 Lexus LS400.

    © 2015

  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    My wife has been bugging me for months to replace the subwoofer in her 2001 LS430 Ultra Luxury Edition. So this weekend started the research to find out how and the cost via Google. This site and other hits had me attonished at how much it costs to replace this 8" subwoofer. Not to mention the labor. The ULE has power rear seats which made it more difficult for this neophite to attempt. Ok now looked at repairing the subwoofer to see if it is possible. Read about hot glue gun and silicon as repair options. Then popped off the cover as recommended using two large flathead screw drivers cuz my hammers and other wedge type tools were too big due to rear window. The cover popped right out. I inspected the subwoofer and as in many writeups noticed the rubber gasket that holds the paper part of the speaker to the circular plastic rim had seperated from this rim. Not only that abour 1/3 of the 1st fold inward was also ripped. No wonder the speaker made such a horrible flapping sound and had to be turned off by the stereo control panel. Being a fisherman who maintains his own boat I thought I'd try to repair the speaker with 3M Fast Cure 5200 Marine Sealant my favorite sealant/glue. Note: It is a permanent fix and almost impossible to remove once cured. Therefore, I carefully applied and smoothed out with my finger the 5200 to attach the rubber gasket to the plastic rim and also repair the 1st inward fold of the gasket (see pic). Even though it says fast cure it's not so fast. It cures in a day instead of days. 5200 is elastic and should move up and down but not as much as the rubber gasket or whatever it is called. The next day tried the 5200 repaired subwoofer out and it sounded great to me but what was more important my wife was happy. She did not notice I accidently got some of that snow white 5200 on the back of the black leather headrest. However, once i noticed it while taking the pic below, I stained over the permanent white 5200 smear spots with black shoe polish. Whew, that was close. You can get the Fast Cure 5200 at HomeDepot for about $9 and $13 at Westmarine. However WM carries 5200 in black so if I did it again I'd probably use black so you would not notice it on black leather. 5200 is like the jumping cholla cactus and will majically attach itself to something important you have thru telepathy so be careful with it. Dennis LS430 http://s185.beta.pho...thowie/library/
  43. 1 point
    2004 RX330 Power Liftgate support/Cylinder purchase and Replacement steps: ============================================================== Issues: ===== - Rear Power Lift Gate was not staying up - Gas on cylinder/support are gone/not holding up. - With Power switch on deskboard/remote - Liftgate raise up all the way and then with warning signals comes back up.. - Also tried turning off power switch next to Glove Compartment and tried manual and it was not able to hold open... Solution: Replaced both Liftgate support cylinders Location for purchase: http://www.autopartsbylou.com/ - purchased ($78) from here - it is exact fit. Steps to replace liftgate Cylinders: =========================== ** Warning: Follow instructions carefully - or go to dealer or shop to have it replace by professional. ** - Power Off - Liftgate on/off switch next to Glove Compartment (Open Glove Compartment and you see switch on left side).. Test with power button from remote and from deskboard to makesure Liftgate moter is powered off... - You need one/two people for holding rear-liftgate while you remove and install new cylinder.. - Also find wooden (2x4) support to hold liftgate so other two people do not get tired of holding liftgate. - Do not remove both liftgate supoort/cylinder at the same time... do one at a time... - You need basic sockets tools kit (Craftsman kit would work) to open four bolts from left and four from right... Assuming all above instructions followed then do following: 1. Remove first TOP two bolts of Leftside Liftgate Support Cylinder. Keep these bolts for TOP 2. Remove bottom two bolts of of Leftside Liftgate Support Cylinder. Keep these bolts for Bottom 3. Install new Cylinder on left side by installing bottom bolts (same bolts for bottom holes) and then top bolts.. make sure tight them well... Follow same above steps for Right side of Liftgate Support Cylinder...make sure tight them well.. Testing: ====== - Once done both side you can gently close/open liftgate manually and see if it close and open... - Then Power ON - Liftgate on/off switch next to Glove Compartment (Open Glove Compartment and you see switch on left side).. - Test with power button from remote and from deskboard to makesure Liftgate motor open Liftgate.. FYI - I have installed on mine, working fine last 2 weeks.
  44. 1 point
    Disclaimer: As always, this is a guide only and I accept no responsibility for any damage or injury that maybe sustained through following these guidelines. One thing that was really annoying me was when driving at low speeds, the slightest bump would give a rattling noise from the front of the car. The culprit being the worn/rusted slide pins allowing the caliper to move slightly and the metal on metal ,slide pin and caliper mount, clanking together. Tools required (excluding wheel removal): 1. Large screwdriver or lever 2. 17mm open ended spanner 3. 14mm ring spanner 4. Copper grease 5. Hammer 6. 21mm socket 7. flat blade screwdriver or chisel. OK, now down to the nitty gritty. Jack up vehicle and support on axle stands, please see this topic for wheel removal etc --> clicky 1. At this point it is easier for access if you turn the wheel, although this is not neccesary it made photographing easier too. You now need to undo and remove the bolts on the slide pins at the top and botton of the caliper. you will need a 14mm spanner on the bolt on the rear, and a 17mm open ended spanner to hold the slide pin to stop it turning. You may not need the 17mm spanner, it depends on how free the bolt unscrews. You don't want the rubber boots twisting too much so have the 17mm available just in case. top. bottom 2. You now need to push the pistons back slightly so that the calipers come off easier. I use a large screwdriver through the piston and into one of the disc vents. Lever towards yourself to push the pistons back slightly. 3. Now remove the caliper 4. Support the caliper (I use an axle stand). for the rest of the overhaul, I have removed the caliper mount to make it easier to photograph 5. The caliper mount showing the dust boot. The slide pins just pull out. If the grease has hardened, they can be hard to budge. A bit of penetrating oil helps free them up a bit and aid removal. 6. We need to remove and renew the boot if it is damaged or split. I used an old chisel and a hammer to remove. 7. Now we need to put the new dust boot on. For this you need to thread the rubber boot into a 21mm socket. Make sure the whole of the rubber part is inside the socket and the socket is resting on the metal washer. 8. Now offer up the socket and boot to the caliper mount and using a hammer gently tap it in. Be careful that you don't catch the rubber boot between the socket and washer/caliper mount. 9. Now the new slide pins. One is referred to as the Main slide, the other as the sub. Not sure why but there you go, the "main" is the one with the indent around the tip. This will hold the bush, which is just a rubber ring in reality and is slipped over the "main" slide pin, 10. Now just apply lithium grease to the pin and slide it in. Re-assembly is just the reverse of the removal. Slide pin bolt torque is 34 Nm (25 ft lbs). Any questions, please shout. Part numbers for fronts: 2 x 47715-22070 Pin, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47715-30060 Pin, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47769-50010 Bush, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47775-30070 Bush Dust Part numbers for rears: 2 x 47715-22070 Pin, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47715-22080 Pin, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47769-50010 Bush, Cylinder Slide 2 x 47775-30070 Bush Dust
  45. 1 point
    The dealer told you to use the wrong type of screwdriver...and you do have to pry. 1. Take out the mechanical key from your fob. 2. Put a flat head screwdriver into the inset space...just inside of the mechanical key slot....and turn it. This will pry open the fob. 3. Remove the old battery and replace with a new CR1632 battery..positive side facing up. 4. Replace the cover of the fob by first pressing on the bottom then the top (The top is the side where the mechanical key is inserted) --Duckman
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point

    From the album: '94 GS300

    © © 2008 dv8films.org

  50. 1 point



  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up