Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/28/2013 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    I made the DIY because I couldn't find one specifically for the RX330. Lexus also apparently think no RX330 owner would ever change their own oil because they don't tell you how to locate the oil dilter and drain plug in the owner's manual. I hope others find this useful. Please comment. I have a 2004 RX330 and after 23,000 miles, I've decided I'm going to do minor maintenance myself. You'll need: - 5qts of 5w-30 oil - oil filter (see info below) - drain plug gasket (see info below) - 10mm socket wrench - 14mm socket wrench - oil catch container - oil filter wrench (I used the nylon strap which seems pretty versitile) - either jack stands or ramps - funnel - rags to soak up dripping oil Part numbers: Lexus parts: 90430-12031 - Gasket Oil Drain Plug 90915-YZZD1-01 - Oil Filter - 6 Cylinder Toyota equivalent: 904-3012028 or 3012031 drain plug gasket $1.04 089-2202011 oil filter $4.99 1) Jack up the front of your car on stands or use ramps. The RX330 weighs 3850 lbs so make sure your ramps/stands can handle it. You might be able to get away without raising it if you slide on the floor, but it's tight. 2) Pop your hood and unscrew off the oil cap. I stuck a yellow funnel in mine. Notice the yellow dip stick on the left. 3) Lexus put some cosmetic plastic panels to make the "less car savy" believe the car is a magic transportation pod with no ugly mechanical internals. You'll need to remove two of them to access the filter and drain plug. The orange highlight is the panel that hides the filter, and the purple arrow shows where the panel that hides the drain plug is. 4) Get under the car to look for the drain plug panel (purple arrow in above picture). The panel will look like this. Remove all the 10mm bolts. 5) With the panel removed, the drain plug is revealed. Get a 14mm socket wrench and loosen the bolt. Position your oil catch container and remove the bolt. Lexus engineers did good.. they designed the bolt angle so the oil shoots down instead of to the side. Very nice. Remove the drain plug bolt AND its gasket. If the gasket is not on the bolt, it's probably still stuck to the oil pan. Remove the gasket and discard. 6) As the oil is draining, work on removing the panel to the oil filter (orange). Remove all the 10mm bolts (red arrows). 7) There are two plastic clips (green arrows) also holding this panel on. Using a flathead screwdriver, carefully pry up the center part of the clip just a little. This will loosen the clip and the whole clip can be pulled out. 8) Pull off the panel. The other panels will be overlapped over it, but they flex enough to allow you to remove it. This is what it looks like without the panel. 9) After the oil is done draining, put the new gasket on the bolt and replace the bolt. Tighten the bolt for a good seal but don't over tighten. I don't know the official torque yet. Wipe up the oily bolt. UPDATE: I got the Lexus service info... Torque the drain plug to 33ft-lbs (45Nm, 459 kgf-cm) 10) With the panel off, you can now see the oil filter (orange) and a nice gift from the Lexus engineers: an oil catch (green). Loosen the filter, and residual oil will drip out. The oil catch will guide the dripping oil out the oilpan/drainplug panel so position your oil catch below the catch. 11) On the new filter, dab a layer of fresh oil on the O-ring (the rubber ring around the outer lip of the open end of the filter). Align the threads of the new filter and spin it by hand onto the engine where the old filter was. When it makes contact, tighten by hand another 3/4 turn. Don't over tighten. 12) Wipe up oil drips. For me, even though the catch was there, some oil still dripped all over the exhaust pipe and panels. Wipe this up. 13) Fill the engine with 5w-30 oil, 5 qts. A funnel is helpful here. 14) Replace oil cap. 15) Replace both plastic panels. 16) Shut hood and drive around the block. Park the car on level ground and wait 15 minutes. Check for leaks and oil level. I hope this is helpful to someone. ...
  2. 3 points
    This was requested by a member in another thread. Another member responded that this would be difficult to do because everyone uses different products and he is right. But in all honesty there really is a set sequence of steps that are done when you detail properly. There is some variance in product usage, but not in the technique. First of all I'm going to mention several different possibilities of products used for each step. You'll notice that most of these products are professional grade and probably will have to be ordered online. That is because in my experience the consumer products are just that, designed for consumers who don't know or care about having the best finish possible. Professional grade products give the experienced hobbyist and professional detailer greater control over what is being done with the paint. Here are the ESSENTIALS you will NEED these to get started. -Several Microfiber towels, I say 6, 3 small 3 big. I reccomend them from our site www.lexuscarcare.com or www.pakshak.com. MF will be mush less prone to scratch than cotton. -Several 100% cotton bath towels, 3 or so. These will be used folded up to work in swirl removers and polish because they have more "bite" than MF. MF will be used for removal. -Several foam and MF applicators, you can get these where you get the towels. -Eagle one Tire Swipes for spplying dressing to tires -A semi stiff brush for tires and wheel wells -2 nice 5 gallon buckets -Some sort of paint cleaner like Meguiars #9, #82 Swirl Free Polish, 1Z Paint Polishes (which work very well by hand) -Some sort of polish like Meguiars #7, P21S Gloss Enhancing Paintwork Cleanser, #81 Hand Polish from Meguiars. -Some sort of wax. We're following a carnuaba/hybrid system here as thats whats best to use if you're only working by hand. So something like Meguiars #26 Tech Wax paste, P21S, or Meguiars NXT, Poorboys EX or EX-P, Blackfire woul\d work well -Glass cleaner- I reccomend Eagle One's 20/20. -An all purpose cleaner like 1Z Cockpit Premium for the interior plastic and carpeting with a nice soft brush. -Woolite and water dilluted 5:1 for leather -A good tire dressing for the tires and the wheel wells after they are washed. Things that would be NICE: -A Porter Cable dual action polisher with 2 cutting pads, 2 polishing pads, and 1 finishing pad. Its tempting to buy a cheaper buffer from Sears or Pepboys or something but trust me when I tell you, if you want the best and safest results the PC is worth the investment. Cheap buffers (Waxxpro, Craftsman) have weak motors that bog down and cumbersome bonnet type systems that either remove too much or not enough paint. If you're gonna spend the bucks anyways, spend twice as much and get the right tool for the job. -A higher cut compound for real swirl removal with the PC like Meguiars #83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish, Poorboys SSR2, Menzerna Intensive Polish -A Bissel Little Green Clean Machine for cleaning carpeting -Plexus plastic polish for all clear plastic -Clay (ClayMagic or Mothers) First clean the interior. Spray the all purpose cleaner on all plastic parts, agitate with the soft brush and wipe clean, use the woolite on the seats and wipe off with a damp towel. Vacuum the carpets well and spray the cleaner and agitate of needed. Pay attention to the nooks and crannys! Always do the interior first so you dont get dust on clean paint. Now, nextthing to do is wash with a good carwash using a good Microfiber, Chenile or Lanswool mitt. Use two buckets, one with soapy water and one with clean for rinsing the mitt after each pass. Wash in straight lines only, never touch the paint in circles. Wash from the top down then do the wheels last as that is where the most grime is, you don't want to drag that up onto the paint. If its hot rinse each panel after washing it. Dont forget to scrub the wheel wells! Next if you have the clay, clay now. Resoap each panel, clay, rinse until the whole car and the windows are done. Now dry the car using your MF towels, use two towels again in straight lines until the car is dry. Now, dress the wheel wells by spraying the protectant up inside them, then spray the protectant on the tire swipe and do the tires. I always do this before the next steps so it doesn't leave overspray on the car. Now its time to start detailing! If you have moderate to heavy swirls and you have the PC start with it, the DACP and a cutting pad, only work 2'x2' sections at a time. Don't use too much DACP, 3-4 dime sized drops a panel is plenty. Make each section look its best before moving on. Use the PC at high speed (5 or 6) and use random overlapping strokes with moderate pressure until the product almost dissapears. The swirls will come out it just may take time. This stage could take hours so be ready for that but the results are worth it. Work your way around the car, when it stops working as well swap out the pad for a clean cutting pad thats why you have two. If the swirls aren't bad use DACP with a polishing pad instead in the same way. If working by hand fold up one of the terry towels into 8ths, apply the #9 or #82 and work into the paint using moderate pressure. Again work 2x2 sections until almost clean and make each section look its best before moving on. This will not remove all swirls but thats left to later steps to hide. If you used the DACP and a cutting pad then you need to go around with DACP and #9 or #82 and a polishing pad afterwards as DACP and a cutting pad will leave micromarring behind. Next, polishing! If you have the buffer use a clean polishing pad and your polish of choice, use it like the DACP but you don't have to work it as long. If by hand same deal, fold up a terry towel and go to town. Now, stand back and admire the work. The paint should be perfect now, no swirls, smooth as glass, good proper color. This is where you look for areas of problems and do them again until it looks right. Now comes the waxing! You can wax by hand or by PC with the finishing pad. Use straight lines and put down a thin coat. Wait depending on the instructions on the wax then buff off IN STRAIGHT lines with an MF towel. Layer and add coats as you see fit. Don't forget to wax the wheels. Next is windows. Get your 20/20 and some paper towels, and newspaper. Spray the 20/20 on the paper towel until its soaked, then scrub it into the window. Next, wipe clean with the newspaper, inside and out all the way around. You can now wax the windows if you'd like but its not neccisary. Now thats it, you're done, sit back and admire your work. Watch for missed patches of wax and wax stuck in creases and crevices. Congratulations!
  3. 2 points
    Trevor, Thanks for the info. You were correct, I had not connected the temp sender wire. It is a bugger of a thing to locate and even more difficult to fit the connector when the entire loom is in situ. The sender unit is tucked in behind the plastic spark plug channel. Done now, so everything is fine. Thanks again, Alan.
  4. 2 points
    I discovered this article today, thanks to a member at ClubLexus. I went and made a scan of my copy, thanks to his discovery. I don't suppose it would hurt to post it here:
  5. 2 points
    Thanks for the posting! We always like new information. Paul
  6. 2 points
    Hi Nathan. I apologize for not connecting with you sooner. I am always amazed at the depth of friendship and caring that can be built with someone you have never met nor never knew what they looked like. The LOC is a place where those who enjoy their hobby can find others who like swapping stories with like minded friends. Landar was a great part of the LOC and was a great source of Lexus info and technical help. Thank you for letting us share your journey. Paul
  7. 2 points
    Incredible shots Steve!!. Looks like a wonderful trip.
  8. 2 points
    Hey guys i made a small video on how to replace the plastic coolant tees that get brittle with age and can crack / leak / break / leave you stranded. Its a fairly straight forward process, everything is covered in the video from tools to parts. If you have any questions let me know. Parts needed for this job: (1) Gallon of coolant - PN# 00272-1LLAC-01 (2) Coolant Tees - PN# 87248-60460 Optional, highly recommended parts for this job: (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A220 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A210 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A190 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A180 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A800 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 99556-20155
  9. 2 points
    I have NO connection with this automobile.... just showing others JDM RHD TOYOTA CELSIOR VIP SEDAN V8 LS400 JAPAN IMPORT TEXAS TITLE look: https://easttexas.craigslist.org/cto/6180839156.html
  10. 2 points
    We recently purchased a new 2017, Lexus RX350 and love it. Selling our original, one owner, 1994, LS400, with 88,000 miles. This superior designed and built, Generation 1 Lexus has been faithful to us as we have been faithful to it. We loved it and still love it. Its new owner will be blessed with full maintenance documentation and records from DAY ONE and any responses to any questions regarding its history will leave our hands with full disclosure of only "the truth". We would not hesitate to keep it and insure it with Hagerty Insurance as a "modern classic", BUT we do not have the room. If it should not sell to the right appreciative and discriminating buyer of this superior condition Lexus, we may have to make room! It is in truly excellent condition and will serve its new owner well. An ad is posted with www.ClassicCars.com. Go to the ad directly from Classic Car's front page by entering "979779" in the "cc-" prompt where indicated. Please do not hesitate to contact me with any further questions at woodman486@kc.rr.com.
  11. 2 points
  12. 2 points
  13. 2 points
  14. 2 points

    From the album: Project Nexus

    So here is the beginning of Project Nexus (Next Gen Lexus), Our 2006 Matador Red Metallic Lexus IS250 6 speed. Even by this point in May 2006 we had already started the mods. Car was color sanded and buffed by Riteway Paint and Body in Fountain Valley, Ca. then clearcoated again and machined buffed with and paint polish/sealer. that paint Custom-made DCR 3-Peice Wheels 20 x 8.5 Front and 20 x10.5 Rear with Toyo Proxies added (new TPMS sensors added to the rims) Red Chrome Outer Lips with Black Chrome Center Sections. B) Ings Lip Kit from Japan (took way tooooooo long to get) Metallic Red Tint from House of Tint in Tustin, Ca. (Only 3 Tickets so Far) Xetronic HID 12000K (Purple) H11 Headlight Conversion Xetronic HID 3000K (Blinding Yellow) H3 Foglight Conversion 5Zigen ProRacer Lugnuts and Mufflers added

    © © 2006, Serenity Sound Performance

  15. 1 point
    I don't think the oil change or the sludge would be responsible for the engine cutting out. However, I would look for fault codes and also carry out grass roots diagnostics (checking battery terminals and battery condition and then carrying on through the car one step at a time). It's laborious but does throw up interesting faults that would otherwise go undetected. Check also the fuel quality and drain/refill if suspect
  16. 1 point
    If you want to save $350 or more, you can also carefully remove the sensor, drill out a 1/16 through hole at the center of the rotary arm & stationary portion...then screw the rotary arm back in place with a tiny screw. I just finished this on mine & it works great. **Just make sure you have a low profile screw head so it doesn't bind into the silver sway arm. Also, you want to wallow out the rotary arm hole a little bigger than the screw - that way the screw only holds into the stationary sensor portion. You don't want the rotary arm engaged w/ the screw trying to turn it. I kept bumping the "trunk close" button when trying to pull away the trunk lid trim. If you remove the 2 top right fuses 10A & 5A in the left trunk fuse block, the trunk lights & trunk operation will stop while you work on the sensor.
  17. 1 point
    That is crazy, the gasket is a crush aluminum washer. Oh well, we will see.
  18. 1 point
    Have you checked that the plastic casing/cap on the filter housing aren't cracked?
  19. 1 point
    Yup, just give them time. They'll break through the main market scene soon enough.
  20. 1 point
    Thanks Trevor for your answer! I have visited Lexus dealer today to they check vibration. Luckily they had a time to check that out. They check balance (did not find anything). Also they make a wheel rotation. Thats all they did. The vibration is now much much lower. Now it feels more like light tingle what could be felt only on good new freeway asphalt. So I probably will wait little while if this gets worse or may be better. This sounds strange that vinbration was almost fixed by the wheel rotation...
  21. 1 point
    So got a reply, said any Toyota dealer can do lease work on a Lexus if no Lex dealer available. Now we know and knowledge is power! 🙂
  22. 1 point
    Now you can see how the wheel spacers will give you the extra tire clearance at the perch. I want to say with the 2" spacers on mine it puts the edge of the tire somewhere right at the outside edge of the perch. I could have fit larger tires but went smaller and should probably go to smaller spacers like 1" to 1.5" to fix the edge of my tire hitting the top of the fender when bottoming out.
  23. 1 point
    I think you're stuck with 235/65r17's as your biggest, I had the next gen 235/55r19's and they would sometimes rub going around corners. I can only fit 265/70r17 cause I put 2012 highlander rear struts in it. That leaves you just over 29".
  24. 1 point
    I will put an end to this mystery..... these are the trim finish panels that fit the "hole" in all 4 doors, you cant see them, but your fingers feel them when you use the opening to close the door.... they seem to fit 95-2000
  25. 1 point
    Hi all, I believe I have posted here before a long time ago with my old LS430 LEX, I now have a 2007 LS460L with 110K on it now. I have owned it for a few years now, since 65K miles, and recently I started having acceleration/hesitation problems. I did alot of research, and didn't find very many good answers. I did have the transmission and engine ECU update flashed, with some improvement, but after that didn't solve the problem, I was convinced it was the cylinder head replacement deal, which was way out of my budget with 5 kids....and I thought it was ridiculous that a flagship sedan would need that kind of serious motor work with just 100K on it. Anyway, my mechanic suggested BG 44K fuel system cleaner, NOT available at places like autozone. He sells it for $28 per can, but I found on Ebay for $16.75 and up with free ship. First and foremost, I ALWAYS used quality, premium gas (Shell V-Power or QT), and Techron additive from time to time, so I was super unconvinced about his recommendation. I had even listed my LS for sale, again, convinced that the motor had cylinder issues after reading blogs about LS460 acceleration issues. Also, for the record, I have NO affiliation with BG or anything like that. THIS STUFF WORKS! It truly fixed my hesitation problems, completely. I am no longer selling the car, and am happy again, as it accelerates like it is supposed to. Feel free to read many other peoples reviews on this stuff, its amazing and really seems to work. After i drove it to wrok (25 miles one way) I thought i felt a difference, by the drive home, I KNEW I felt the difference, after the full tank, i was truly smiling. I have ordered 4 more cans for my other vehicles and boat, and suggested it to my friend with a ISF, my brother with an SC430, and my buddy with a Vette. I guess these LS460 cars are just picky after a while and maybe the injectors get gummed up? I don't pretend to be a mechanic, again this was suggested by my Lexus mechanic, After alot of depressing research with no real answer, just wanted to share my experience with any other LS460 owners, as it is a beautiful car, and I was disappointed in what I was thinking the problems I had. It was the best $17 I have recently spent, and if you are having similar weak/lack of acceleration or hesitation issues, i would say TRY IT for less than $20. I believe you can go to BG's site and find a local dealer, again, not autozone or O'Reilly or anything like that, says professional use only lol. Also, need a funnel, comes in a coke can basically. Just my 2 cents, hoping to help out any other LS460 owners out there depressed about their car, it seems most people just said they'd trade it in and buy a new one, but I'm not that rich :)
  26. 1 point
    I Had this problem a number of times with mine. My SC is gone now, rest it's soul. But I did have a pretty permanent fix for this. I hand bent the rod back to about the right shape, and I installed it with the regular clip (i still have a box of them and could send a couple if needed). Then I took a medium sized zip tie and went around the whole clip and rod below the "L", then also around the flat metal piece that activates the rod when you pull the handle. I left the zip tie just ever so slightly loose so there was play in it. The idea is the zip tie stops the rod from torquing the clip wrong, but does not actually hold everything tightly in place. It holds it all loosely in place. Anyway, the fix lasted years--the rest of the car's life. Let me know if you need some clips. I believe i have a small box of ten for each side. I would be willing to share a couple (but one day i want another SC)
  27. 1 point
    I had this same issue with my'95 SC400 a couple years ago. The 'bar' mentioned by the dealer is no more than a short metal rod and used ones can usually be found on eBay for a few bucks. Be certain you are buying the one for your year and model, as there are several types. The attachment clips are plastic and can also be purchased new from Toyota or on eBay for a few bucks each. Any competent mechanic should be able to do this repair - dealer not required. The driver side door lock linkage is different from the right side but the clips are universal. The hardest part of the job is removing and replacing the door panel but YouTube videos are available on how-to. BTW, this is a very common problem with Toyotas and Lexus because of (guess what) that aging of that plastic clip which eventually becomes brittle and breaks. I cannot imagine why Toyota didn't use a metal clip as they did in the good old days. I suppose the answer to that is a guaranteed $500 repair somewhere down the line.
  28. 1 point
    Selling a mint condition 2004 SC430 red convertible. Has a low 14,500 miles with an excellent service history. Bone stock, no modifications to the vehicle whatsoever. Great sounding v8 has a low throaty rumble than the quiet LS430’s. Car comes with some extras for storage in the winter months. Very clean car inside and out. Engine bay and undercarriage has absolutely no rust or corrosion. Both owners of this car took great care of it, not driving it in rain or salty roads. Everything on the car works as the first day it was sold. Maintenance has been well cared for as all oil changes were done well under 3000 miles with Mobil1 full synthetic. The timing belt is the exception as the car was not driven hard and stored in climate controlled garages. Has a clean CARFAX record. Exterior: Original paint with little to no swirls. Has not been polished, only washed and waxed by hand. No parking dings/dents have occurred. Headlights and tail lights are not fogged and do not have condensation. Windshield and side mirrors has no pits from road debris. Interior: Very supple leather, no scratches or frayed stitching, very soft. Steering wheel does not show any sign of wear or dents in the wood. Comes with aftermarket rubber floor mats for easy cleaning. Service History... 1st Owner: Recommended service history performed by Lexus of Mishawaka, logs are on lexus website. 2nd Owner: Recommended service history performed by owner every 3000 miles using Mobil1 Full Synthetic. Brake fluid was also changed. New battery was put in early August 2017. Purchased lightly used Bridgestone Continentals (dated 1212). A little bit about the owners... 1st Owner: A doctor from Warsaw, IN bought this car from Lexus of Mishawaka in 2004. Kept the car in climate controlled storage with a car jacket and taken out only during the summers. Never drove it in the rain or snow. Never took it out until May or June when the roads were clear of salt. 2nd Owner: An engineer from Granger, IN took possession on June 2015. A well known lexus enthusiast on the lexusownersclub forum unfortunately passed away. He babied it and continued to keep it well kept in a garage, sealed in a full car jacket with desiccant packs. It has been taken out only in summer months around May to October. Never taken out in rain or snow. Some extras to go along with… Bridgestone Potenza Run Flats - 4 set with factory Lexus SC430 rims, tread is worn, some light curb damage to rims Front Rubber Floor Mats Wheel Lock Key Kobalt Electric Air Pump- Does not come with a spare tire Fully enclosed Car Jacket- S3-1819 with desiccant packs KBB values it at $20,500 but does not take into account of its storage history and extras. Asking $23,000. Prefer buyer in person with cashier’s check or bank transfer. Able to negotiate on price. Buyer needs to arrange pick up before October otherwise it will stay in winter storage until May of 2018.
  29. 1 point
    Ooo. Not fun, and yes, it sounds like there's air trapped there in the throttle body and upper hose connection. I'd start with a pair of locking pliers ("Vise-Grip") on the outside of the filler bolt head and see if you can get it off that way. Once there, fill the cooling system from that opening and that should take care of your air bubble/overheat issues. From what I could look up on Lexus parts sites (the diagrams aren't the easiest to read), so it looks like that filler bolt part number should be 90341-20012, and the washer/gasket below that should be 90430-20017. Hope this helps. Best, Paul
  30. 1 point
    Hello Fellow Lexus Fans, Here is my update on the steering rack replacement and thanks again for all your support. The replacement was fairly straight forward. The trouble spots were: 1. A frozen bolt on passenger tie rod end (didn't matter because I was replacing the TREs anyway). 2. Once I had the rack fully disconnected and clamps removed, there wasn't enough room to slide the rack out so I had to jack up the tranny housing an inch or two to widen the gap between the rack supports and the tranny housing. 3. I didn't like the look of the ESC part and wires from the rebuilt rack so I swapped it out from my old one which looked in better shape and had OEM wires/connector which saved me some solder time as well. 4. Those hydraulic bolts were very difficult to remove and even harder to reinstall (with old washers which worked well....Thanks Lexus!!!). That area was very tight and hand cramped often as I tried to get the bolts to thread back onto new rack while wrestling with the hydraulic lines that didn't want to sit in their proper position. After about three hours and too many exclamation points to count, the job was done and rack was refilled and bled with Dextron VI (about 3/4 or a quart was all it took). Thanks again for all your support. Look forward to sharing my next challenge with the team, John
  31. 1 point
    Actually my cell phone has the option to call then pause for an extension and it works fine....I am going to try to just transfer the the number/extension from my cell phone using a blutooth app on my phone to transfer to the nav system in the rx400, maybe that will work. I know directly inputting the number into the nav didn't work
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    Nathan, I knew the prognosis was not good but I was hoping your father would somehow make it through this. We PM'ed about it on the last day he was active on this forum. I would have liked to have met Randy in person but didn't know how to contact him after he dropped off the forum. Randy was incredibly helpful to others on this forum and it was always great fun to "talk" with him by PM. I assume you are talking about the red SC430: Perhaps a local Lexus dealer could provide suggestions on selling it or even sell it for you. Or maybe there is a business where you live that specializes in selling older pristine special interest cars on consignment. I'll bet this SC would sell in an instant if it was on a showroom floor.
  34. 1 point
    Filehorse......All can say is WOW, never thought cleaning the Nylon Seat Belt Webbing would result in a Good-As-New Retracting Seat Belt…… As the video instructed, I extended the belt all the way out then locked it with a clip. I added a small mixture of Lestoil and the Dawn Ultra Platinum to a 5 gallon bucket, filled it ¾ full with very hot water and then let the belt soak for three hours. I pulled the belt from the water, dried it off with a Towel then hit it with some Armor all Multi-Purpose Cleaner. Changed-out the water, added some Downy Ultra Liquid Fabric Softener and refilled with very hot water again. Let the Belt soak for another hour then a thorough rinse and fully dried…… Amazing !! Like the Driver's Door Lock Actuator, I waited way too long.......Thanks Again Filehorse for the TIP.......
  35. 1 point
    Thanks Trevor, I really like them as well. Bums me out so many people don't upgrade wheels these days anymore, but I still have to have big wheels on the rides....:) Thanks again!
  36. 1 point
    Search Mirrortap (works very well) on ebay and then do a search on this site and other Lexus forums that have covered this in several threads. You can tap into a connector in the overhead console. The threads will explain how to remove the overhead console. You will have to find out, or test for, which hot wire is switched and which wire to use as a ground.
  37. 1 point
    I was told ride would be stiffer...but I have not noticed that....actually seems better.
  38. 1 point
    Speed sensor is located on the passenger side hub.
  39. 1 point
    In this car the circuit opening relay is mounted next the ecu behind the glove box. Opened it up and realised it was not engaging. I engaged it manually and finally got power to the FP relay. Now to solve the hunting idle.
  40. 1 point
    Just dropped my 2008 RX 400H of at the dealer for soggy headlight replacement. The service writer didn't believe it was covered so he looked it up. It's still covered under the "warranty enhancement program". It's 9 years from the first day it was put in service. That covers me and hopefully some others who haven't looked at this thread in a long time. Good luck!
  41. 1 point
    Lexus has received new J D Power awards, but is now struggling to get back its former top ratings. Industry followers say it's not that Lexus quality has slipped, its that the other car makers are getting a whole lot better. Read the article below. Paul https://lexusenthusiast.com/2017/06/22/lexus-gs-among-the-best-in-2017-j-d-power-initial-quality-study-while-overall-bran
  42. 1 point
    I'm happy to be a member on this site. Looks like a great forum here with usefull tips. I drive a 2014 Lexus IS 300h. Thanks for letting me join. christian
  43. 1 point
    Well, I strongly doubt your problem is your speakers. Many Lexus cars have more miles than yours and have good, working speakers. With your speaker net work just failing at random it has to be something in the head unit or amplifier. Don't put any more money into speakers. Check with you local Lexus dealer and see if they can at least diagnosis the problem and what it will cost. The sub speaker is 8" inches, and the door speakers are 41/2" inches. The exact size of each speaker can change from model year, and interior lay out. If your IS has the small round tweeter on the top of the door, are 1"inch . Paul
  44. 1 point
    Hello, my name is Gary M. Sigler, joined today, 5-6-17. I just bought a new 2016 GS F.
  45. 1 point
    I think it is pretty cheap when a corporation such as Toyota stops furnishing repair manuals. Once again big corporations don't care about us little people
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point

    From the album: LS400

    back view
  50. 1 point



  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up