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  1. Yesterday
  2. I agree with the previous poster that the other Lexus forum is much more active but I'll give my input. I did this job on my 2007 460L. I replaced the 8 arms in the front of the car for less than $400 and a couple hours of time but I'm a DIY type and I do all the work on my cars short of engine of transmission work. I would suggest you look on Ebay for the control arms and find a different shop. This is not a difficult job and there's no way that they should be charging that much labor to do it. That price they quoted you is what an actual Lexus dealership would charge you for the job and they would be using OEM control arms. Either way it's highway robbery and they know it but because this issue has been well documented and overblown IMO they get to set the price. Most shops want to use their own parts and they frown on customers bringing their own parts for several reasons. Sometimes they use unless they get the parts from the actual dealer they buy aftermarket control arms just like you would but then they mark the price up. Also f they have to warranty the job they want to know that it was a good known part which they can't verify if you bring your own parts. There's no way I would pay over 2k for this job and even that is too much for me since I can do the work myself. 2k is if you can't DIY and have to take it to a shop. These are the front lower arms that I just installed in October. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Lower-Control-Arm-Ball-Joint-Driver-Passenger-Kit-Set-4pc-for-Lexus-LS460/232704738601?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 I did the upper arms in 2018 and I purchased them directly from the Febest.us website and got all 4 for $80 but they no longer list them on the site. The have them on ebay but the price has went up dramatically. https://www.ebay.com/b/Febest-Parts-for-Lexus-LS460/6030/bn_24521694 I would just get the front upper and lower from the same company that I posted in the first link. They have a lifetime warranty on the parts. If something were to changed you would still have to pay the shop to do the labor. No company is going to warranty the labor unless you got the parts from them and they did the labor. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Upper-Lower-Control-Arms-Ball-Joints-Sway-Links-for-Lexus-LS460-New/312999475896?hash=item48e038fab8:g:EsoAAOSwlztefaGn
  3. The quickest way is to go to an Autozone. They will read the codes and then clear them for free.
  4. Although I've been active on this forum for many years, its activity level has dramatically declined. I suggest you ask your question on the much more active Club Lexus forum at https://www.clublexus.com/
  5. To entertain children and adults during lockdown, the team at Lexus has created some colouring templates of the Lexus LC 500 sports coupe Finished designs can be shared with Lexus on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram by including the @LexusUK tag in your post. Lexus LC 500 Super GT You can create your dream racing car livery with the Lexus LC 500 Super GT car colouring template, but remember to stay within the (racing) lines. This illustration also includes racers from, BMW, Audi and Aston Martin because it commemorates the 2019 race when Super GT cars from Japan and cars from the German DTM series competed against each other for the first time. The first of these so-called ‘Dream Races’ was held at Fuji Speedway, with Nick Cassidy taking victory in the Lexus. Lexus LC Road Car If high-octane motorsport isn’t your thing, there’s a template that’s much more relaxing featuring a Lexus LC road car in two idyllic settings. The style of all these Lexus illustrations is inspired by Ukiyoe, which are traditional Japanese woodblock prints from the Edo period (1603 – 1868). About the Lexus LC 500 The Lexus LC 500 is Lexus’s flagship luxury coupe It was the first Lexus to be built on Lexus’s front engine/rear-wheel drive Global Architecture – Luxury (GA-L) platform It is the faithful evolution of the award-winning LF-LC concept car The LC 500 has a 5.0-litre naturally aspirated V8 engine and 10-speed direct shift automatic transmission. It delivers 457bhp and 530Nm of torque, enabling acceleration from 0 to 62mph in 4.7 seconds. LC 500h is a self-charging hybrid with naturally aspirated 3.5-litre V6 engine and first application of new Lexus Multi-Stage Hybrid System. It delivers 354bhp and 348 Nm of torque enabling acceleration from 0 to 62mph in five seconds. Download the templates here Archive 2.zip
  6. Although he only became a father a few years back, the Brodie has always been a family man. It’s been evident through his support network over the years, to his inclusion of his little man Noah in his signature Jordan Why Not Zer0.3 sneaker’s campaign launch. His focus on family has even been celebrated through his signature sneakers, dating back to the Zer0.1 “Noah” and last year’s Zer0.2 “The Family” Now in 2020 we’re seeing a third edition — also dubbed “The Family,” and also arriving in the same Black, White and Metallic Gold palette. While last year’s edition arrived rather simplistic, the overly aggressive nature of the Jordan Why Not Zer0.3 The Family has allowed this year’s pair to inflict more impact through the use of metallic exposed stitching and varying texture changes in the overlays. Jordan Brand has also introduced translucent lockdown straps, grey rubber outsoles, and marbleized shanks, for a feeling of complete chaos — I’ve got a two-year-old at home, too Russ, and that’s the perfect word to describe family life right now Grab an official look at the Brodie’s third family-themed pair below, and find these dropping in select Jordan retailers like Finish Line and Nike.com on January 9th in full family sizes. As always, keep your eyes glued to our www.kyrie6preheat.com for further updates, including better looks and a list of retailers who’ll be stocking to drop. Style Code: CD3003-001 (Men), Style Code: CD5804-001 (GS), Style Code: CD5805-001 (Little Kids), Style Code: CD5806-001 (Toddler), Color: Black/White/Metallic Gold, Release Date: January 9th, 2020, Price: $85
  7. Hi does anyone know how to reset a system check light? Also my vsc light is on too.
  8. Hey All (sorry for the dissertation): I was already aware that my car and cars like mine have issues with the control arms and considering the car is 12, I expected it. Problem is, last week I was told by one Lexus repair shop (been using them for 15+ years) that only the front control arms were torn. I held off because of his costs. I had the car aligned that same day at a different shop and was told the alignment couldn’t be done properly because of the front control arms so I had them replaced. Speed up to today, I went to a new shop beloved in my city that is owned by a Lexus Service Writer and Master Mechanic (not sure how much weight that truly holds). Thing is, I was informed that there are 8 control arms and all but two were torn. For them this is a $4400 job, alignment not included. It would most likely be difficult for me to verify what the truth is because I don’t know what I’m looking for. To be honest I still don’t trust mechanics 100% so I’d really like to see this for myself. Especially with two different recommendations at two well known shops. Put simply, I’m genuinely confused. They made it a point to tell me my brand new alignment and tire rotation might have been useless because it would most likely “fail” quickly and the tire tread wear would be terrible until I fixed those arms. I don’t hear or feel anything while driving. I’ve driven Lexus’ all my life. The alignment is great and we’re doing our best to work with the tires we have while keeping a close eye on everything. She drives like a yacht and is a thing of beauty. If this was your car, what would you do? Thanks ahead of time! All the best!
  9. Last week
  10. I just did my valve body harness because my VVTI was not working properly as well as the SLT solenoid because the connector was cracked and the SLN solenoid because of harder shifting. I must say the shifts are a lot smoother and my VVTI is working too. I bought both from lexuspartsnow.com for my 98.
  11. Thanks by the way for the info on the ecu big help i was making sure i was buying the correct and up to date ecu
  12. Got it thanks! I actually went ahead and prdered the latest version wich is the 303 and installed it this last saturday. The problem i was haveing is that not often but it was starting to. Want to die at a stop here and there but just a rev on the engine and a couple miles down and it would go away. Before this happened it spent 3 weeks parked because the ecu wasnt getting any readings so it wouldnt turn on short story finally turned on didnt have any issues until this started happened. So i replaced the ecu got a new one lifetime warrenty. And now the only issue i seem to be having is that when i come to a stop and i turn and mess with the steering wheel y rpm goes to 400 -450 and wheninout it back it usually stays on that level but doesnt die onparkmyidle goes upto about 600-650 rpms and on drive it idle at strait 600 rpms no issues of it wanting to turn off so far but my idle does go down when i come to a stop and mess with the wheel for some reason. any thoughts on what could it be? I have searched on these forrems and it seems to be something with the power steering idle up valve im guess the lile black piece on the bottom of the power steering may be not working correctly ? I have changed the idle air control valve before and also i have a new maff also my throttle body is sqeaky clean. What i also found out is my old computer did have a lil burnt out spot on it so i guess maybe that was the reason for wanting to turn off before here and there and giving me low idle now it just want to give low idle when come to a stop and mess with the wheel.
  13. Thanks for your response and the link! I have been ripping my hair out trying to find any information about these cleaning and flushing services that start from $230 and get more expensive, particularly the rear differential fluid bleed and flush. I also don’t think just because fluid is brown means it needs to be “flushed and changed.” It’s too vague and most fluids turn brown, it’s a car. I also have an ‘07 GS and have never quite gotten the guilt trip and BS. I am really worried to do damage to my car it’s in pristine condition so the recommendations I received by the Lexus Mechanic that my family has gone to for over 10+ years seems to have over stepped. His greed is outweighing long term customers. I did attach a paper with the list of what is “recommended” because the fluids are “brown.” I’ve already replaced the control arms and completed the alignment. I’d appreciate any input at all. I’m Once again, thank you!
  14. I wonder if the traction battery or a related component is going bad. I assume the traction battery is used to start the internal combustion engine of the RX400h like it is on other hybrid vehicles made by Toyota. And how old is the regular 12V battery? Does it test OK? Even through it isn't used to start the internal combustion engine, it's critical in powering the vehicle's electric infrastructure ... gauges, audio system, accessories, etc. I doubt if the brake code has anything to do with the problem. Sometimes meaningful codes trigger others that aren't.
  15. I don't see changing the transmission and differential fluid in the maintenance schedule for the 2008 LS460. Lexus dealers like to make money by doing unnecessary services which was one of the reasons I rarely used Lexus dealers for service during my 24 years of driving LS sedans. I see that engine coolant (120 months) and brake fluid (180 months) could be past due or due to be changed based on time instead of mileage. If you are going to be conservative, those might be services to have performed ... or maybe not. Ask the dealer service writer where in the heck something called induction system cleaning is specified in the maintenance manual. That sounds like a totally bogus trumped up service. Here's a link to the maintenance manual for the 2008 LS460: https://drivers.lexus.com/t3Portal/document/omms-s/L-MMS-08LS460/pdf/L-MMS-08LS460.pdf
  16. I feel like I’m between a rock and a hard place so any helpful advice is greatly appreciated. I recently purchased an ‘08 LS460 with 50k original miles on it and now the car has just under 60k. She’s a cream puff if I’ve ever seen one. The car was garaged all its life (it appeared like a fairy had driven the car for 12 years. All of the repairs were done at the dealership like clock work up until about 3 years ago when the owner passed away. I had a pre-purchase inspection done and wasn’t surprised when the control arms and alignment were brought up. I will take her in to do the 60k maintenance according to the maintenance schedule but I am a little hesitant about the recommendation and extra cost per service to flush the transmission fluid because it’s brown, replace differential gear oil because it’s brown, and do an induction system cleaning. Wouldn’t fluid in a car be brown? Are these extra services appropriate right now? Info: I’ve already completed the control arm and alignment services and I am doing the 60k maintenance (according to the Lexus maintenance schedule) in a few days.
  17. I was just in the exact same dilemma and chose to go with the 2008 LS460 with 45k OG miles over a 2016 with over 120k. I don’t necessarily feel like all are equal when speaking of higher mileage. If all things are indeed equal, like the list of necessary repairs or maintenance due by miles (via Lexus maintenance schedule), and wear and tear (interior/exterior) then it comes down to personal preference. The 4 year difference doesn’t mean a whole lot (to me) when you’re talking a difference of 98k miles and choosing between good/pristine. My opinion truly means nothing because you’re putting the cash down to pay for the vehicle. Since you asked ☺️, if all things were equal I’d run with the ‘03 in pristine shape.
  18. I just purchased a 2002 SC430 and the navigation system is a 2001 Version 1 and i want to upgrade to the latest version availble for this vehicle. Can anyone point me the right direction to do this? Jack in Camp Verde, AZ
  19. I have a 2008 Lexus 400h with around 113,000 miles on it. A few nights ago it refused to start, saying "Check Hybrid System". Full power to the lights and the dash, just no actual engine start. When I went into the storage well in back to get my tools, I found moisture in the storage well under the matting over to the right, closest to the right rear tail light assembly. I could not see where it might have come from. I got a ride home from a family member. I did a little research and went back to it the following day morning, pulled the battery terminals, waited ten minutes, and tried again. This time it started and drove fine, with the hybrid system itself seeming to work, but I had no cruise control, no control of passenger windows from the driver's seat (the window switches at the actual window worked fine), and the traction control error light was on. I used my BlueDriver to pull codes. I have one Motor Generator Code, P0AA6, "Hybrid/EV Battery Voltage System Isolation Fault". I also have 2 Antilock Brake System Codes, C1231, "Low or High Power Supply Voltage", and C1310. Since then, in order to start it I have to pull the battery terminal and wait a few minutes. It takes longer than usual to start the internal combustion engine, but when it starts there are usually no error codes. Then, somewhere between one and twenty minutes, I lose cruise control and the traction control error light comes on. This morning I pulled all the fuses related to the hybrid system. They were all intact. Any thoughts? Thanks very much. Grace
  20. I dunno if the Gen II RX's will work well with the Toyota Limited Slip Differential (LSD) due to the change in transfer case? I just don't know enough about that build. But, if you want to add capability, you could try a posi rear end. You'd be looking for a donor vehicle (RX, Highlander, Rav4) with an axle code -04A denoting the factory Torsen LSD option. If you find one in the same year as yours, you'd know it'll work with the transfer case and it would be a good upgrade 🙂
  21. Well I found one in Oregon with 158K on the ODO. Seller (B&D Auto Wrecking) confirmed that it was/is a locker. So after the previous three vendors failed to check well enough and either sent the wrong part, or just refunded my money after double checking, I pulled the trigger and got it. Yup, it's a Toyota OEM Limited Slip Differential carrier complete. Raining right now, so don't want to open it up, but will in a few days. Looks like the right rear stub axle seal was weeping, so before it goes into my RX, I'll have the shop install all new seals and double check the lash. I don't want a noisy one replacing a dead silent existing one... So I got a photo of the "Build Plate" off the drivers door jam (sticker) from the donor vehicle (Highlander) : So you see the axle data in the lower right hand corner? It says -04A for this axle. My existing one is a std open diff (-02A). It's the thing you are looking for when out shopping. -04A is the axle code to look for in the field when hunting for one of these. I have seen one door sticker with an -03A on it, but was not able to get any more info about what axle that might be ...
  22. Well I found one in Oregon with 158K on the ODO. Seller (B&D Auto Wrecking) confirmed that it was/is a locker. So after the previous three vendors failed to check well enough and either sent the wrong part, or just refunded my money after double checking, I pulled the trigger and got it. Yup, it's a Toyota OEM Limited Slip Differential carrier complete. Raining right now, so don't want to open it up, but will in a few days. Looks like the right rear stub axle seal was weeping, so before it goes into my RX, I'll have the shop install all new seals and double check the lash. I don't want a noisy one replacing a dead silent existing one... So I got a photo of the "Build Plate" off the drivers door jam (sticker) from the donor vehicle (Highlander) : So you see the axle data in the lower right hand corner? It says -04A for this axle. My existing one is a std open diff (-02A). It's the thing you are looking for when out shopping. -04A is the axle code to look for in the field when hunting for one of these. I have seen one door sticker with an -03A on it, but was not able to get any more info about what axle that might be ...
  23. I am deciding between an 07LX with 198k miles in good shape or an 03LX with 100k miles in pristine shape. Both in same price range. All things equal, would the recommendation be - older car with less miles or newer with more miles? My goal is to have as "trouble-free from repairs" a car for as long a time as possible. Thank you for any input & advice!
  24. 1998 es300 150,000 miles. Any advice on replacing the passenger side CV axle after a motor mount has been replaced. I went through all the typical problems with this had to cut the CV axle out that was in there and press the bearing out of the carrier, just about pulled my hair out. Now I am reinstalling and the CV axle does not want to slip back into the transmission differential. I have tried lightly tapping on the outer end of the CV axle with a block of wood And just don’t feel like this is the proper way to do it. I have measured the new CV axle. I do not have a micrometer but it all appears to be the same size. I’m wondering if I need to loosen the motor mount back up. Any suggestions?
  25. I have a 2000 lexus ES 300 250,000 miles im the 3rd owner my aunt had 15 years befor me it didn't do it for her i got the car it turn to 200,000. A friend drove my car and said did you know your is having trouble shifting to 3rd in the morning i said ya only when its really cold out but she is good if you warm her up for 5 mins before you drive but we don't have that cold of winter here in Washington so try 10 mins then drive she sould be good
  26. '01 RX300, the windshiled washer hose snakes up along the passenger-side hood hinge and from there disappears under some plastic covers. The hose has developed a tiny leak right where it goes under the cover, apparently from 19 years of abrasion every time the hood is opened. I'd love to get some tips on how to access the hose beyond the point where it disappears. The leak is right there, but I can't get to it to repair it.
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