Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/07/2019 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Well, it's a hoot that you went back and edited your original post adding "NOTE: I ordered the “F Sport” version." trying to cover up your bozo mistake. Congrats.
  2. 1 point
    So as the title says I have a 2007 Lexus ES 350, the serpentine belt shredded and I replaced the belt but there is a massive oil leak, I’m thinking the belt hit a sensor or something, anyone have any ideas For what I am looking for, I have a lot of experience, but first time lexus owner.
  3. 1 point
    Fuse #2 (20 amp) in the engine compartment fuse box is for the wipers. Is it blown?
  4. 1 point
    Warranties are not affected by the installation of tow hitches unless it can be proved that the hitch caused the failure of a vehicle component. If a hitch is super important to you then it's best to verify that a hitch is available before purchasing a vehicle. The cost of custom fabricated hitches can vary wildly. I suggest getting several bids. I'm going to have a class II trailer hitch fabricated for a new mid-engine Corvette C8 convertible so I can plug a bike rack into it and I won't be surprised if the total cost is well over $1,000 but that's a nit considering it's an $80,000+ car. I will provide a detailed design to the fabricator.
  5. 1 point
    I have one 1995 as winter car. ( Mark2 ) and a 1998 as summer car. ( mark3 ) . The Mark 3 i like better.
  6. 1 point
    Update, it turns out that the VSC warning was triggered by a failed O2 heater. Haven't found anyone that knows about a connection from the simple, only at engine start, test for low O2 heater current and the VSC. However, the VSC issue was noted on some of the discussions on the O2 sensor. Mine was the very common bank 1 (driver's side), sensor 1 fault, possibly common as the sensor is surrounded by some heat shields and probably runs hotter than the sensor on the other side. A bit painful to change the sensors, somewhat complicated by which orientation the connector is in. Mine connector was in an impossible position to push the tab, so I cut the connector on the sensor in pieces very carefully and pulled it apart. I would NOT recommend doing that, if you can't get the connectors apart the splice in a generic sensor. The O2 sensor fault was cleared immediately and a couple of engine starts plus a short drive later the VSC warning went away. Therefore, my old battery charger did not cause the VSC issue.
  7. 1 point
    https://parts.lexusofroseville.com/p/Lexus__/COMPUTER---ENGINE-CONTROL/63612676/8966150303.html P/N 89661-50303 superceeds P/N's 8966150300; 8966150302; 8966150304 Your ECU may have been replaced. It depends on production date of your chassis and the date that the supercession of the part occurred. IOW, your chassis may have been in-process on the production line with the 50302 when the 50303 was put into production. Odds are that it was replaced at some point after production. I got the old service records from the local Lexus dealer for my car when I bought it used from Carmax in 2008. These records may some of your questions. Regardless, the ECU you want is the latest part number. It will have the most recent calibrations.
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    It looks like the crushed gasket of the filler hole caused the mess at the filler hole.
  10. 1 point
    The first pi The first pic is the fill hole for the coolant. You remove the bolt to bleed the system. I have a 98 which is slightly different but here's a video to get you started. I would flush the whole system if it were my car. The coolant seems to have a leak and is crusty. The coolant probably has NEVER been changed. I would also refill with Toyota red coolant or the equivalent you can find at advance auto which is Zerex Asian. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGGwyjv36OU The second pic is the heater valve which control the heat in the car. The 2 hoses are supposed to be connected to the valve which opens and closes when you change the heat settings.
  11. 1 point
    Mine went out at around 250k miles. It didn't throw the code yet but I heard clanking noise in one of them so I replace both with Bosal converters. Both still work fine after 50k miles. I could have lived with it but the noise bothered me.
  12. 1 point
    It is Feb.2020 I have been on list a year in April did you get yours fixed??
  13. 1 point
    No, it's available to whoever owns the car.
  14. 1 point
    I’m going to definitely look into that! Thanks for the insight.
  15. 1 point
    I suppose you could open the trunk pass through door behind the rear seat armrest. If your LS430 had the Ultra Luxury package with the separate rear HVAC system, that might have been why its trunk temperature was closer to that of the interior.
  16. 1 point
    undefined :cries: Help, have 2002 ES300 purchased 1/02 with 27,000 miles. Car is washed weekly & is garaged. The alloy rims are starting to blister. Any one else have same problems?
  17. 1 point
    Thank you for your reply. It sounds like that's on my next thing-to-do list.
  18. 1 point
    This job is not difficult theres 4 bolts to remove the seat just be careful with the connectors underneath especially if there is an airbag. Pull the carpet back to gain access to the connector. The most difficult part is getting enough leverage underneath the car to break the sensor loose.
  19. 1 point
    Greetings, I acquired my SC430 about 2 months ago, I felt the same way a little bit off. After driving the car more (weekends and good days) I have also learned to admire and enjoy it. It grows on you. I'm looking forward to Spring to drive with the top down, I'm sure I will enjoy it even more.
  20. 1 point
    I finally replaced it. I had to remove the passenger CAT, without removing the darn thing, I had no way to insert the bottom screw (on the top side). I did not need to drop the crossbar or raise the transmission. The car is quiet now.
  21. 1 point
    My 2011 RX450h has 40,000 miles on it. The auxiliary (battery that starts the car) battery is original. Lexus service tests the battery at each service interval and the battery tests good. Eight years is a long time for a battery to last. As I understand it, the original battery is a glass based battery; not lead. This type of battery usually last longer, but I do not want to wait for the battery to die and be left stranded. Any of you with Lexus hybrids have any input regarding at what point you replaced the auxiliary (the one that starts the car) battery? Thanks!
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    Nice review - thanks!
  24. 1 point
    Thanks for the input, the car is at mechanic shop today, should have some more info on noise issue.
  25. 1 point
    There is a convetion in the US to put a sticker on the engine compartment if the timing belt has been replaced. If there is no sticker, assume it has not been replaced. I just was quoted $950 for a belt and water pump at a Toyota dealer for a 430. A private shop down the street wants $1,400 but guarantees the work for 90k miles.
  26. 1 point
    I'm going to have new OEM fit Bilstein struts put on the back of the '02 GS300 - hoping to be better than those brands, but I can let you know later this week how compares to when it was new.
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    Check the alternator. This is an indication that your alternator mat not be charging properly. I assume that this occurs when the engine is hot, with lights and ac both on. I have had this problem. My mechanic sort of gave up calling it an age issue, and recommended replacing the 80amp alternator with a 100amp ... Seems to have resolved my problem (same as yours)
  29. 1 point
    I have a certified 2016 es300h and updated the nav after purchase bc the nav was already 3+ years old. I bought the chip from dealer with discount and the upgraded myself. The upgrade is started in the map menu, then follow the screen instructions very easy. 10 minotes and done
  30. 1 point
    Hi Lydia, thank you for letting me know! I ended up not getting the car as it turned out to have very rusty brakes and a salvage title. I did get a 2010 Lexus RX 350 though. ( : Thanks again! -Amy
  31. 1 point
    Welcome to the Lexus Owners Club Charles! Pearl white is one of my fave colors.
  32. 1 point
    It has got a timing belt which (in the UK) should be changed at 100,000 miles or ten years, whichever comes first
  33. 1 point
    Barbara H, I agree with paying to get another diagnosis, as hopefully you might get an explanation as to why the trunk release and fan speeds are affected with your nav screen issues. That said, a recent 2 part YouTube video on a Subaru water leak caused a TPMS failure (module is under the driver's seat in a subie and shorted out due to water flooding) that also caused the radio to malfunction, the speedometer not to work, and a complete communications failure of the diagnostics system for the car. Once the car was dried out and the TPMS module replaced, the radio, speedo and OBDII communications all started to work again. What I'm getting at is that many of your car's systems' issues can sometimes be caused by just one part failure. Maybe they are all related? Your best bet after the 2nd diagnosis is a refurbished unit if it backs up your first diagnosis. Its the cheapest route for you on a 9 year old car. (And no, you can't have the one from my wife's car.) Good Luck!
  34. 1 point
    Lexus GXOR concept looks cool. More info to come
  35. 1 point
    Will tell a friend about it.
  36. 1 point
    Is there a product that I can install tha twill give me AUX input in my non Nav stereo? I would like to hook up my Sirius. This is on a 2000 LS400.
  37. 1 point
    Hello everyone, So we own a '99 RX 300; we believe ourselves to be the second owners - purchased from original dealer : Lexus of Portland after lease return. Purchased in '05 for $17K. The odo was pushing 75K. The test drive threw a "Chk. Eng," lite but we bought it anyway after the svc. dept. cleared it with an explanation of what set it sounded mundane & unremarkable. The transmission failed about 60 days (78Kmi) later. Dealer made good on it. Currently still enjoying our ownership experience {200 K and counting}. Issues we've encountered are: 1] Alternator belt noise that turned-out to be a failing Alt. bearing/'Cocked" pulley [after 3 belt replacements]-Had never witnessed an alternator fail like that and NOT stop charging &/or make a racket with "metal-to-metal" contact. This one manifested neither. 2] exhaust leak from front exh. header cross-under flex connector : age (TBE) 3] C/E Light O2 Sensor Inbd Bank - These are "heated" sensors; that circuit should be expected to fail over time. Since they were both OEM commonsense supported both be replaced. Murphy's law as well. 4] C/E Light [Code 1354] - VVT Oil Control Valve Bank 2 - This one was tricky and troublesome; seems there was some kind of terminology mix-up in getting the right part; ended-up replacing Bank 1 & 2. 5] Mysterious run of tire flats started around 160K - Maddening because it followed the purchase of new tires. Turned-out the flashy factory CHROMED mags were manifesting a corrosion caused finish failure; had to replace them. 6] C/D player failed : BEAT THE DEALER out of their "rip-off" on that one; found the ONLY NATIONAL repair outlet and dealt direct. SAVED $$ on that one. 7] Driver's Door window drag w/ noise come the wet season : suspect channel guide felt needs replacement [body shop job] haven't done it yet. We've also begun to see water collection in the spare tire well & left rear {driver's side} fender well below the cargo pocket. Rough winter [2016], unsure if it's an established problem or fleeting.. 8] Taillight bulb-out indicator {hint: Don't forget to look at the "Hi-Mount" brake light in the lift door} 9] Driver's seat OTBD bolster fabric failure : $250 recover. 10] 178K we had the entire engine checked out for full field service. I knew the T-Belt was over due along with the ancillary items that usually are included in that work awa the brake fluid was no longer clear {in need of change} & the A/T was due a complete fluid flush BUT they found Head Gaskets just beginning to leak coolant & oil {This should be expected because of the steel block vs aluminum head design of 3.0L}, P/S pump was leaking . A little over $4K later we've got a car that should take us to 500K mi. without a whimper. That last repair was done by an independent shop I thought I could trust; everything else was DIY [I'm a certified mech]. One area that I tend to look for application of after-market improvements is the brakes. To that end I HIGHLY RECOMMEND to anyone with a desire for the best stopping experience & reduced brake service costs to seriously consider the POWERSTOP Extreme Performance Drilled & Slotted Disc Rotors. They can't be resurfaced but if you're diligent about oversight on your pad wear you'll easily get two pad changes out of any set. You should buy the POWERSTOP pads with them. I live in the PNW, 1800' elevation; I use engine compression for deceleration as much as I can [the wife has adopted the technique as well]. First the O/D is switched off and then I shift to second as required to reduce speed. So even though hills are an "average trip" for this vehicle, in this way my service-to-service interval is extended dramatically. Rotor warpage is a thing of the distant past in my driving experience. I also have chosen to rebuild my struts in all four corners. Don't cut corners on that when you choose to have it done, replace all associated components. Finally I have used Mobil 1 Synthetic on a normal service life cycle; that is to say that the vehicle sees 10+ miles [min.] per "key-turn" operation for 98% of it's service duty. That usually provides 8-8.5K miles between LOF. {Severe Duty is city driving with under 10 mi & stop'n'go}
  38. 1 point
    I have a 2000 RX300. Last year, it happened once. I took the key out and the engine didn't turn off. It was still running. I tried several times putting the key in/out but it still kept running. I drove it around and after driving little bit, it finally turned off. It worked fine for almost a year and it happened again. This time, same thing, many tries on using key in/out did nothing, the engine still was running so I drove it around but it died while driving. I smelt something burning on the exhaust. Now I can't get it to start back again. Thankfully, it's in a parking lot currently. I'll try to get a jump start later and see if that works. What do you guys think? What's happening?
  39. 1 point
    Anything can break at any time. If you happen to be Irish, that means often.
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    Lexus replacement batteries are interstate . A battery installed at the dealer have a 7 year pro rated replacement warranty. A LS 460 does not have a radio code. There are many systems on a LS460 that may need to be re- initialized upon battery replacement . A LS 460 is fastenating technology .
  42. 1 point
    Here's the diagram. Audio System Non-ML.pdf
  43. 1 point
    I finally got the stock sub working with my aftermarket stereo. No audio integration harness is needed. All you need is a RCA to speaker wire cable and tap into the Sub + and Sub - wires (black wire and white wire). I was following the diagram http://www.intellexual.net/faq/lexusstereo.swf for Socket D and it lists the Sub + signal as D1 and Sub - signal as D5 ; however that did not work so I thought maybe I was looking at the diagram backwards. So I tried tapping the speaker wire to D4 and D10 and heard the subwoofer. So it appears you need to tap into D4 and D10 instead of D1 and D5. Great day. Got the subwoofer working and installed the double DIN Metra kit.
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    It is rather simple and not much to worry about . To remove the wheel disconnect the battery for atleast 10 minutes.You will lose all memory radio and time settings. This will discharge the SRS system, it only needs about 1 minute but i would rather wait longer. You will need to remove the side flaps to get to the torx screws at each side. This will loosen the airbag ,after that you have to attach a steering wheel puller to pop off the wheel which is flanged incase the nut falls off. Just disconnect when you are done ,that is it.
  46. 1 point
    Thanks for your reply- I'm new to this site so can you help me with searching under the threads- show I just use the search button?
  47. 1 point
    I don't know if this is where I am supposed to post this, so I hope this is the right place... I have a 2000 RX 300. I love it BUT I have had a few problems, and the main one that is driven me crazy since my 10,000 check up, is the rattle vibration noise at the dash on the drivers side.., The dealership service dept. has tried to fix it with no results, it still makes that noise..... Not all the time, but the majority of the time. My car is now 5 yrs old with 45,000 miles on it. I am the original owner, I am very particular about my car and keep it looking new. I have just recently noticed the hesitation with the transmission that has been mentioned, and my car as I post this is being serviced, so I hope they do fix it. My glove box has to be slammed to shut, they supposedly adjusted it the last time it went for a check up.... but it still needs to be slammed hard to close. So that has been my experience with my Lexus.. BUT like I mentioned at the beginning of this post.... I do love my Lexus!!! I also want to mention that I do like the RX 300 better then I like the RX330. It feels alot more spacious inside. The only thing I like better about the RX 330 is the turning radius.
  48. 1 point
    I came here today specifically looking for a thread like this. I am so unhappy with my dealer right now I could scream. Long story short, EVERY time I take it in for something that should be warrantied, they try to tell me it's not covered. I have the 100,000 Certified Lexus Warranty and currently have 76,000 miles on my 2000 RX300. The latest is weird-the HANDLE on the back hatch broke! I did not do anything to it-one day I tried to open it and it just jiggled-kind of like when it's locked. So I take it in and it takes them 90 minutes to tell me that the handle is broken and they need to order a part. And that they called the Corporation and it is NOT covered under warranty. AND it will cost ME $423.00!! I am so stunned. I paid extra money for this vehicle so that I would have the certified warranty. I could have purchased it from a non-Lexus dealer for much cheaper, but thought I would have better coverage by going through THEIR dealer. We called Lexus and "Raul" told us he'll speak to his boss and get back to us within 2 days. I am seriously considering NOT buying another Lexus because there are only two dealers within a reasonable driving distance from me and this is BS. Plus this stupid dealer once again did NOT have a loaner for me so I had to sit there the whole time. I am thoroughly disappointed by this and hope that the corporation will help me out. Otherwise I know for sure I will NOT buy another Lexus. I'll be in the market for a new SUV within the next year, and I'll tell you, right now the BMW is looking mighty nice. VERY DISAPPOINTED IN LEXUS OF BROOKFIELD, WISCONSIN Jill
  49. 1 point
    Okay, got my manual with me...Before you check any fuse, turn your key to "accessories" position or "on" position, do not start the engine. See if your lighter works. The pressure created from the heated coil is what makes the lighter pops out. If the light doesn't work, it obviously won't create any presure so it won't pop out. The fuse you are looking for is fuse #5, rated at 15 amp. This is located in the Driver's side kick panel. Exit the car, duck under the steering wheel and look up just above the gas pedal. You should see a fuse box. It is covered with a plastic cover. This is driver's side kick panel. You are looking for FUSE #5
  50. 1 point
    I have a 2001 RX 300 with a noisy exhaust. The dealer told me the noise was coming from a spring in the exhaust but they want $200 to fix it. I'm wondering if anyone else has had the same problem. The dealership is Larry Miller of Lindon, Ut. I am the second owner of the car. Car has 50,000 miles on it.

  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up