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The general rule is that if a repair or repairs within a short period of time are equal to or greater than 50% of the value of the car, then it may be time to buy a replacement vehicle.

I appreciated the suggestions in this post when replacing my upstream sensors. I have no idea why the O2 heater low current test (runs only at engine start) also trips a VSC fault. But, like others my check engine light cleared immediately with new sensors and it seemed like a couple of starts and a short drive cleared the VSC issue as well. After having issues with getting test monitors to pass in several other vehicles, I simply drove the car for a month to let the stored fault code clear before getting a SMOG test. If anyone is following the Lexus LS 430 repair manuals, the inspection procedure on page 05-61 has a heater resistance specification at 5 to 10 ohms. The fault in my sensor was obvious, the heater circuit open. Both the opposite OEM side sensor and the new sensors all had heaters with resistance of 15 ohms, and I replaced both upstream sensors. I could not find / make a tool the separate the connectors and cut the drivers side sensor side connector in pieces, I would NOT recommend doing that as too much possibility to damage the body harness and spicing in a generic connector would be a better option. I also cut the small plastic tab off the new sensor connectors so they would not lock (used tie warps on the harness to ensure they stay mated). Therefore, the connectors would just pull apart in case I ever have to do this again. My guess is the more common fault is bank 1 (drivers side) due to the more extensive use of heat shields on that side.

Mine went out at around 250k miles. It didn't throw the code yet but I heard clanking noise in one of them so I replace both with Bosal converters. Both still work fine after 50k miles. I could have lived with it but the noise bothered me.

I am now at 249k miles on my fantastic RX400h. One of the issues that shows at that mileage are the cooling fans on the radiator failing mechanically. The motor shafts were actually wobbling. Those motors are quite expensive at $200 apiece, total of over $400 for motors. On the other Lexus site a gentleman came up with TYC radiator cooling fan assembly that had motors that could be take off a Toyota Highlander Hybrid 2008 that fit our different shroud assembly. I did this last night and it was a direct fit, including the plugs and harness. Just remove assembly and take fan blades off and remove motors. Here is the final good news, the whole Highlander assembly cost $139 at your favorite site ie Amazon or Rockauto. The shroud from the highlander will not work in our cars as it does not have the expansion tank. You use only the motors and our old fan blades. Top of the morning to everyone.

Sorry you didn't figure the issue out but I still believe all instances of this (in any car) can be traced to the driver. "No production car's engines can overcome their braking system." This is an absolute (and the basis of dragster starts for fastest 1/4 mile times)!

Check this thread out. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/910181-ls-400-how-to-replace-transmission-solenoid.html

undefined :cries: Help, have 2002 ES300 purchased 1/02 with 27,000 miles. Car is washed weekly & is garaged. The alloy rims are starting to blister. Any one else have same problems?

This is the best online tutorial for your car that landar put together. Try to see what you have been missing. 98 1uz-fe Timing Belt And Water Pump Replacement How_to

This job is not difficult theres 4 bolts to remove the seat just be careful with the connectors underneath especially if there is an airbag. Pull the carpet back to gain access to the connector. The most difficult part is getting enough leverage underneath the car to break the sensor loose.

Changed the battery and now my dashboard and all electronic out car will not shift into gear but is running. Now it won' even start and run today? Help please single mom of 5 need my car running great. Any ideas?

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Greetings, I acquired my SC430 about 2 months ago, I felt the same way a little bit off. After driving the car more (weekends and good days) I have also learned to admire and enjoy it. It grows on you. I'm looking forward to Spring to drive with the top down, I'm sure I will enjoy it even more.

I finally replaced it. I had to remove the passenger CAT, without removing the darn thing, I had no way to insert the bottom screw (on the top side). I did not need to drop the crossbar or raise the transmission. The car is quiet now.

As a way of giving this thread a bump, and thanking the previous posters, I encountered this problem in my 2004 GX this week, and was able to get the replacement relay from Autozone for $16. Easy fix, and the second time I've had to do it (once around 100k miles, and now at 217k miles). Thanks!

I know this is a late comment, but I just looked here for some info on my Lexus. I'm a retired electronic engineer in medical x-ray, CT etc. and deal with both high voltage and low voltage/high current circuits. I wonder if that quote of 5 ohms should have been <0.5 ohms, as at 12 volts, 5 ohms is a huge amount of resistance and a starter motor would not turn over. Even headlights would draw enough current to severely drop the voltage. The main battery leads + and - are heavy (25mm2 Copper) to reduce resistance. I look for around 0.01 ohm max to the chassis or starter motor. Two headlamps at 65W (130w) will draw 10.88 Amps at 12V ( 130/12 = 10.88A) The resistance of the two headlamps is calculated by R = E ÷ I (E =Volts, I = Amps) Therefore 12v / 10.88 = 1.1 ohm. Therefore even a 1 ohm resistance in the wiring will halve the voltage at the headlights and a 5 ohm resistance will hardly make them glow. The lower the voltage the more important resistance is. This is why AC mains is supplied for great distances at very high voltages- Here in New Zealand we use 230V which can operate with less copper in the wires than in USA at 120V A starter motor may draw say 100Amps (100 x 12 volts = 1200 Watts) and the starter motor will have a resistance of 0.12 ohms. Thus even 0.1 ohm resistance in the wires will approximately halve the voltage and may not allow the starter to turn over. Meanwhile a lot of heat is being generated in the starter leads. I have found there is much confusion in understanding the relationships between Resistance; Watts; Amps and Voltage even in auto and domestic electrical trades. Once you get your head around it, it becomes basic nature. I learned this analogy at College in the 60's - "A Volt chased an Amp thru an Ohm" Likewise, 10 volts will chase 10 Amps thru 1 ohm; and,,, 10 volts will chase 1 Amp through 10 Ohms. The formulas are available online.

I received a letter from Lexus saying they may reimburse people for this if they have painted their cars. My car had gotten so bad that I finally had it painted after I found a place to do it. They did it for $2500 and they painted my whole car from the molding up Looks so much better now. It was awful beforehand

Each of the four tire pressure sensors have a unique identification code (it is not called a VIN #) that must be uploaded to the vehicle ECU through the diagnostic port in the driver side (left) footwell. If the TLMS system has been working properly for 28 months, then the cause of the current problem is not from the selling dealer switching wheels. It is more likely that one of the four TLMS sensors has failed or that the TLMS system needs to be reset due to altering tire pressures.. If a sensor has failed, a competent tire shop should be able to determine which sensor(s) has failed by holding an appropriate electronic tool next to it and "pinging" it to determine it's ID code and battery health. TLMS batteries usually last up to 10 years from my experience but they can fail much earlier and can be damaged during a flat tire repair. After tire pressures have been corrected or after a flat tire has been fixed and reinstalled, it can be necessary to initialize the TLMS system by pressing the reset button under the dashboard until the TLMS warning light blinks three times. It's described in the Do-it-yourself Maintenance section of your owners manual.

There is a convetion in the US to put a sticker on the engine compartment if the timing belt has been replaced. If there is no sticker, assume it has not been replaced. I just was quoted $950 for a belt and water pump at a Toyota dealer for a 430. A private shop down the street wants $1,400 but guarantees the work for 90k miles.

I'm going to have new OEM fit Bilstein struts put on the back of the '02 GS300 - hoping to be better than those brands, but I can let you know later this week how compares to when it was new.

Well I hope the German brand you have now isn't Mercedes, BMW or VW/Audi! If so, then your troubles are just beginning. The vehicles I've owned that were manufactured by Toyota have been infinitely more reliable and of higher quality than the German vehicles I've owned. My last Mercedes, purchased new, was on its 3rd engine when I finally dumped it and bought a new Lexus LS.

I have a certified 2016 es300h and updated the nav after purchase bc the nav was already 3+ years old. I bought the chip from dealer with discount and the upgraded myself. The upgrade is started in the map menu, then follow the screen instructions very easy. 10 minotes and done

I have Cooper Evolution Tour tires in the stock 225/60-16 size. They came on the car and are pretty much new with only about 700 miles on them. They're nice and quiet, offer a decent ride, really good grip in the dry and rain, and have a good tread wear rating. They're perfectly fine for the casual cruiser. These tires get really good reviews online, even on TireRack. At less than 90 bucks per corner, not a bad tire at all. Read some of the reviews here... https://www.tirerack.com/survey/SurveyComments.jsp?&category=tire&additionalComments=y&commentStatus=P&tireMake=Cooper&tireModel=Evolution+Tour&fromTireDetail=true&partnum=26TR6EVT&tirePageLocQty=%26partnum%3D26TR6EVT

Welcome to the Lexus Owners Club Charles! Pearl white is one of my fave colors.

It has got a timing belt which (in the UK) should be changed at 100,000 miles or ten years, whichever comes first

Lexus GXOR concept looks cool. More info to come

Looks like it's designed just for you and Mongolia!! Paul

All prices are local. See what similar cars are selling for in your area. KBB private party sale value where I live in the Midwest for a 2001 LS UL in that color with that mileage in Good condition is between $4,916 and $7,245 which I think is unrealistically high. A 2006 LS UL with similar miles in a more desirable color with the optional PCS/DRCC package could bring $10K to $13K here if it is in KBB Good condition. It's a shame these cars aren't worth more but there isn't much demand for old Lexus sedans - even originally expensive ones.

Walmart speakers in an LS460? 🤣 Audio systems can be very particular when it comes to impedance. Yes, it is possible to trash an amplifier if speakers with incompatible Ohm ratings are used. I used speakers with incompatible Ohm ratings on a home audio system many years ago but I had to wire in crude adapters and the results weren't ideal. The following website is about the importance of impedance matching: https://www.techwalla.com/articles/2-ohm-vs-4-ohm-speakers

Concerning something (like a pen) falling into the well for the console drink holder door of a Lexus RX 350 which prevents it from opening all the way. First take out the removable cup divider. Then take about a 8” length of some very sticky tape, and cut it so only the very end about 1/4 “ is revealed. Then slide the sticky end down the inside of the door (holding it close to the door in a half-way open position) till it was hitting the bottom of the door well. Then open the door all way until it touches the pen, or ? and the pressure of the door against the tape will cause the pen to stick to the tape. Slowly close the door as you pull up the tape and slowly pull it to the drink holder area. You can also assist the process by putting some very sticky tape on the end of a chopstick (or pencil), and when you see the object, try to make it stick to the tape on the chopstick and begin pulling it into the drink well. It took a bit of patience, but I saved myself a trip to the dealer for an expensive console removal doing this. Good Luck!

Thanks, i should be able to replace it myself. I just need to make sure i buy/order the right one.

We got 274,000 miles out of our 2001 RX 300. The engine was running like a top but the transmission failed. With that amount of miles, we sold it to a junkyard. Then I spent two months looking for a replacement. We wanted a 2009 RX. I just can't get around the weird looking 2010 and newer models. All the '09 Rx's I saw were more than we wanted to spend. Then another 2001 RX showed up as a trade in at a local dealership for $2000 with only 125,000 miles on it. Come to find out it had a rebuilt title for a minor front end collision in '04 and the dealership just wanted it gone. So I drove it and as soon as I left their driveway I felt something slip. There was snow and ice about and I was on the way to my mechanic so I thought little about it. After looking over the car my mechanic said If I didn't buy it he would. He really didn't check it out as I would so I really put it to a little extreme use and noticed the tranny slipping again. A friend of mine has a tranny shop and we figured we'd get the tranny replaced for $4200 and pay the $2000 (Damn dealership would not come down anymore) for a total of $6200. We came real close to buying another 1999 RX for $6400 with 145,000 miles and it needed a timing belt replaced. Now we're driving the new to us 2001 RX for a week and a camshaft snaps!! Engine wasted due to metal everywhere.. This was supposed to be my daughter's car to go to college with. What NOW!! I'm sure you can guess, we bought a remanufactured engine that is being installed as I write this. We will not have a $10,000 2001 RX 300!! The moral of the story is keep your RX 330 if its running great and just needs a few things now and then, I hear some of them will go to 350,000 miles.

I recently purchased (Sept 18) a 2002 Lexus RX300 2WD 123K, that was only owned by one other person. It does have some minor body dents and dings, the interior is like new. When I purchased it the MILwas on and the DTC code was P0440. I started checking for Vac line leaks as that is what the Lexus dealer had told the previous owners. Then suddenly the VSC and TRAC off lights came on and now the DTC are P1135, P1155, and C1201. I cannot believe that both of the A/F sensors would go bad at the same time.

Very nice!

Hello everyone, So we own a '99 RX 300; we believe ourselves to be the second owners - purchased from original dealer : Lexus of Portland after lease return. Purchased in '05 for $17K. The odo was pushing 75K. The test drive threw a "Chk. Eng," lite but we bought it anyway after the svc. dept. cleared it with an explanation of what set it sounded mundane & unremarkable. The transmission failed about 60 days (78Kmi) later. Dealer made good on it. Currently still enjoying our ownership experience {200 K and counting}. Issues we've encountered are: 1] Alternator belt noise that turned-out to be a failing Alt. bearing/'Cocked" pulley [after 3 belt replacements]-Had never witnessed an alternator fail like that and NOT stop charging &/or make a racket with "metal-to-metal" contact. This one manifested neither. 2] exhaust leak from front exh. header cross-under flex connector : age (TBE) 3] C/E Light O2 Sensor Inbd Bank - These are "heated" sensors; that circuit should be expected to fail over time. Since they were both OEM commonsense supported both be replaced. Murphy's law as well. 4] C/E Light [Code 1354] - VVT Oil Control Valve Bank 2 - This one was tricky and troublesome; seems there was some kind of terminology mix-up in getting the right part; ended-up replacing Bank 1 & 2. 5] Mysterious run of tire flats started around 160K - Maddening because it followed the purchase of new tires. Turned-out the flashy factory CHROMED mags were manifesting a corrosion caused finish failure; had to replace them. 6] C/D player failed : BEAT THE DEALER out of their "rip-off" on that one; found the ONLY NATIONAL repair outlet and dealt direct. SAVED $$ on that one. 7] Driver's Door window drag w/ noise come the wet season : suspect channel guide felt needs replacement [body shop job] haven't done it yet. We've also begun to see water collection in the spare tire well & left rear {driver's side} fender well below the cargo pocket. Rough winter [2016], unsure if it's an established problem or fleeting.. 8] Taillight bulb-out indicator {hint: Don't forget to look at the "Hi-Mount" brake light in the lift door} 9] Driver's seat OTBD bolster fabric failure : $250 recover. 10] 178K we had the entire engine checked out for full field service. I knew the T-Belt was over due along with the ancillary items that usually are included in that work awa the brake fluid was no longer clear {in need of change} & the A/T was due a complete fluid flush BUT they found Head Gaskets just beginning to leak coolant & oil {This should be expected because of the steel block vs aluminum head design of 3.0L}, P/S pump was leaking . A little over $4K later we've got a car that should take us to 500K mi. without a whimper. That last repair was done by an independent shop I thought I could trust; everything else was DIY [I'm a certified mech]. One area that I tend to look for application of after-market improvements is the brakes. To that end I HIGHLY RECOMMEND to anyone with a desire for the best stopping experience & reduced brake service costs to seriously consider the POWERSTOP Extreme Performance Drilled & Slotted Disc Rotors. They can't be resurfaced but if you're diligent about oversight on your pad wear you'll easily get two pad changes out of any set. You should buy the POWERSTOP pads with them. I live in the PNW, 1800' elevation; I use engine compression for deceleration as much as I can [the wife has adopted the technique as well]. First the O/D is switched off and then I shift to second as required to reduce speed. So even though hills are an "average trip" for this vehicle, in this way my service-to-service interval is extended dramatically. Rotor warpage is a thing of the distant past in my driving experience. I also have chosen to rebuild my struts in all four corners. Don't cut corners on that when you choose to have it done, replace all associated components. Finally I have used Mobil 1 Synthetic on a normal service life cycle; that is to say that the vehicle sees 10+ miles [min.] per "key-turn" operation for 98% of it's service duty. That usually provides 8-8.5K miles between LOF. {Severe Duty is city driving with under 10 mi & stop'n'go}

Wow that Celsior is gorgous...

Check to see if something has fell down in the cig. lighter holder like a coin or something. This will cause the climate control to not work and the fuse to blow. Check that first...

Hmm, dead post,oh well. So I will post my answer based on my experience today. I did some searches and most were dead wrong with a few being right on battery replacement . That is a probelm, sorting out the guys who guessed and never did it to the guys who knew and did it. This was a trip and even the Lexus dealer gave me a wrong answer. One wrong answer and I won't believe anything you say. Changing the battery is just like any other old car. Nothing special and nothing to worry about if you have done it before. Short out a lead and you have had it. . 1 The radio- If you have a dot blinking on and off that means it has a security code # . Don't install the battery but take it to the dealer and get hosed. My radio had never been assigned a code number and there is no danger of locking it up. 2. Some cars but NOT the LS 460 require a 9V jumper in the cigar lighter to keep all electronics live. Lexus has a built in hold up so you will not have to worry about anything being lost. The cigar lighter can not be used with a hold up because it is disconnected when the car is turned off. I checked it with a voltmeter. . Do NOT turn the car on so you can use it. I have no idea what might happen but you would probably be in a lot of trouble.$$$$ Tools needed a .Screwdriiver to pry battery terminal open after the bolts have been losened. b, spanner wrench 10MM and 11MM for undoing terminal clamps on battery. c . Phillips screw driver to press clips open d. roll of duct tape TURN OFF ALL THINGS IN THE CAR AND PLACE THE KEY FOB IN ANOTHER ROOM !! Start by removing two plastic panels on the passengers side covering the battery. There is one big panel over the front wheel and one small panel near the cowl with rubber weather seal that have to be removed. Gently fold over the small panel toward the drivers side. To remove the panels locate the clips. Push in the center, you will hear a click. Push them all in. They are all loose and if you pick the panel up, for sure, you will loose a few. Cover them with duct tape so they don't pop out. or store in a box. I had several clips missing from the dealers work and or Jiffy Lube. Before you start buy a full set from Lexus. You need these anyway after the miscreants work on your car. in the future. The clips are not user frendly and tricky. With the panels off, the battery is in plain sight and very easy to get out compared to a Jag I once owned. You will have to unbolt the terminals. and a hold down clamp . First roll up all the windows and turn everything off incuding AC and the radio. Remove the key fob starter to another room . You don't want to turn the car on with the Fob. If you do you are dead meat. Prepare a series about 8" long of duct tape. Fold back about 1" on each end and stick it to the other side. Unbolt the hold down fixture. It has one nut. Duct tape the rod to the front side so it can't flop forward and get in the way while the new battery is being installed. Using the 10MM and 11MM spaner undo the hot + lead toward the drivers first. Use extreme caution do not tiouch the spanner or lead to the frame and short it out. When the terminal is unbolted you may have to use a screw driver to pry it open so you can remove it. When it comes off cover it with the duct tape you prepared so no metal shows. Move it to one side. There is a lot of room but keep it away from metal. Using the spanner again repeat the process and move the minus - lead to one side. Pull out the old battery and install the new one. Very easy to do. Install the clamp down holder. Place the plastic panels in place. The clips have to be reset. Lift from panel and push in the center part so it sticks above the out side ring. I used channel locks. Its not easy. You may loose some. I told you to have replacements on hand. Listen up. Insert the clip and push down. That's easy. You can off course remove all the clips and place in a box for safe keeping. Your choice. All done. If you are an expert battery installer just rip the old battery out and install the new one. There is nothing that you have to do to protect the settings that I know of. This was confirmed by some others advice. Then there were others talking about using a 9 V hold up and a bunch of other nonsense. Who do you trust? I'm a engineer, MSEE and paid cash for our LS460. However anyone can say that. Good luck. This took me 15 minutes to install and two days to find out nobody knew how to do it. Rant- what's with our education system that kids can graduate and know absolutely nothing about electricity but stuff about Zeus ? Unreal, in this electrically driven world. Rant #2 How can we expect an electric car to work for years when I have to replace the battery in my Gas powered car every 4 years? Batteries suck and guess what? Toyota said that just last week as they pulled the plug on their all electric car.

Lexus replacement batteries are interstate . A battery installed at the dealer have a 7 year pro rated replacement warranty. A LS 460 does not have a radio code. There are many systems on a LS460 that may need to be re- initialized upon battery replacement . A LS 460 is fastenating technology .

Hi and welcome to the Lexus Owners Club I am wondering if the AC unit is faulty. How many times has the fuse blown and do you have the correct amp fuse plugged in?

I know, it may be too late for, but have a look at this vid - maybe it will help you to defeat this navigation system's behavior:

A previous post from ScottRoy: I can't say this will be true for your LS 430, but for my 2004, I tried pulling ECU fuses and that didn't work. When I pulled the battery negative cable off for a few minutes, then restored it, the nav system re-loaded. Apparently, there is another power line going to the ecu (to maintain the memory) that doesn't go through the indicated ECU fuses in mine. Maybe yours? I was worried I'd loose a bunch of memorized settings throughout the car, but only lost the previous destinations list. Not bad.

Thanks for the compliments :) By convert i meant you can simply buy the OEM HID version Rx330/350/400h headlights and switch them out with yours. The headlights size and bolt patterns are exactly the same (not 100% sure- but based on experience, it tells me they are). You don't need to take the headlights apart at all. The wires for the ballast etc can be accessed from outside of the headlights, so you should be good with that too :) Now, there are TWO "types" of the HID Rx330/350 version headlights. Obviously there's the halogen type (the type you have) but there are TWO different types for the HID headlights- which look exactly the same from the outside, so it can be tricky. The first HID version has an HID projector and bulb, with only the auto-leveling. (No AFS function) The second HID version uses a similar HID projector and bulb, but has the components for both the auto leveling AND the AFS system. Aka some 04-09 Rx330/350's out there have HID without the AFS. So if you see an Rx330/350 with HID's, it still not might have AFS. The 06-09 Rx400h's all came with the HID with AFS, but the Rx330 and Rx350's mixed and match. The only way to tell the difference between "HID with AFS" and "HID without AFS" is by looking at the back side of the headlights. I don't have pics, but when researching the headlights you should be able to tell the difference. Some sellers might say "non-AFS" and "AFS" to differentiate the two, but it's best to look. Just don't assume because you see the projector that it must have AFS... The last thing you want to do is get the right side headlight being the HID AFS version and the left side headlight the HID non-AFS version. You'll be able to tell the difference in output and cutoff line shape between the two ;) If you want, you might want to get the HID non-AFS version headlights, this way you can avoid having to worry about aiming the AFS motors... BUT, the projector used in this non-AFS version headlight does not perform as well as the AFS version headlight projector. Personally, i would get the HID AFS version headlights just for the better output :)

You can buy a used set of OEM HID Projector - version 04-09 Rx330/350/400h headlights and do the conversion. The bolt patterns are the same. You will need to do some hardcore wiring though, as the plugs will be very different. You'd need to splice the wires going to your present halogen low beam bulb, and wire them to the HID headlight ballast. The 12V will activate the ballast which will illuminate the HID bulb. No extra harness required, as there's enough current there. Then splice your present high beam bulb to the HID headlight's high beam bulb, which is the same. You will also lose the AFS/Auto-Leveling functions, as these both require special computer and switch components worked into the car's main computer. The halogen car's don't come with the software in the computer, so it wouldn't be possible. There have been people though, who have bought special motor drivers to work the auto-leveling motors, so you can move them manually via a switch you put in the cabin, but again, it would require a lot of wiring. And when buying the HID version headlights, stay away from the 04-06 Rx330 headlights as many of them have a condensation problem you won't find out about until you've already installed them in the car. The headlights produced for the 07-09 Rx350/400h no longer had the problem and are your best bet It'll be a fun project :) Good luck!

Actually lexus082 solved the problem for me. My gf is the primary driver of the car and she took out the cigarette lighter since she didn’t want anybody smoking in the car and she never covered it. There was a penny in the lighter that blew the fuse. We didn’t know about it because we didn’t use the cigarette lighter and I was unaware until lexus082 told me that the fuse also was for the environmental control unit. Removing the penny and changing the fuse solved the problem. Once again thank you for your help and hopefully some day I will be able to help someone else the way you have helped me.

There is an under the hood fuse that is 100 amp and also has control over that area of the car.

Thank you.

I don't know if this is where I am supposed to post this, so I hope this is the right place... I have a 2000 RX 300. I love it BUT I have had a few problems, and the main one that is driven me crazy since my 10,000 check up, is the rattle vibration noise at the dash on the drivers side.., The dealership service dept. has tried to fix it with no results, it still makes that noise..... Not all the time, but the majority of the time. My car is now 5 yrs old with 45,000 miles on it. I am the original owner, I am very particular about my car and keep it looking new. I have just recently noticed the hesitation with the transmission that has been mentioned, and my car as I post this is being serviced, so I hope they do fix it. My glove box has to be slammed to shut, they supposedly adjusted it the last time it went for a check up.... but it still needs to be slammed hard to close. So that has been my experience with my Lexus.. BUT like I mentioned at the beginning of this post.... I do love my Lexus!!! I also want to mention that I do like the RX 300 better then I like the RX330. It feels alot more spacious inside. The only thing I like better about the RX 330 is the turning radius.

Vehicle: 04 RX330 Purchased: 8/16/04 Dealer: Lexus of Madison in Madison, WI ("Lexus M") Current Service Performed by Bergstrom Lexus in Appleton, WI ("Lexus B") Problems: 1. Took delivery and car developed shimmy at 55 mph, returned to Lexus M, wheels/tires were out of balance (rebalanced) - no charge. 2. After 4 weeks dash popping noise developed in proximity to both A pillars or dash side air vents, rattled detected in proximity to glove box. Returned to Lexus M for 1000 mile service (repair undertaken, problems not fixed) - no charge. Began to notice the transmission hesitation (but based on comments from this forum decided to wait and see if this problem would persist - it still does). 3. Mid-September had "falling out" with sales person at Lexus M due to answers given on Toyota follow-up questionnaire. I will not do business with Lexus M again due to this experience. 4. Oct 4, took vehicle to Lexus B to address dash squeaks and rattles. Inspection performed. I was informed that one air vent was "broken," service tech recommended replacing both (parts ordered) and suggested that when the parts were in they would conduct their own "in house" repairs for the dash problems using a system that they had developed over the winter of 03-04 to deal with all the problems that new RX330 owners were experiencing. Also noted the ticking sound from the lifters - was told that a TSB was coming out but that service could not be performed until TSB received. No charge. 5. Oct 18, vehicle returned to Lexus B for replacement of vents and other "fixes." No improvement following service. No TSB yet on the "ticking" sound. No charge. 6. Nov. 4, vehicle returned to Lexus B for first oil change. Requested that squeak and rattle issues be addressed again. Also began experiencing wind noise from driver side window at high speeds (e.g., excess of 70 mph) during cross wind conditions. Additional repair attempted by Lexus B with no success. No charge. 7. Dec. 17, vehicle returned to Lexus B to address first recall notice regarding tail light wiring. Repair completed. No charge. 8. March 7, 2005, vehicle returned to Lexus B to repair failure of driver side window opener. Problem fixed. No charge. 9. March 17, 2005, vehicle returned to Lexus B with instructions to keep vehicle until squeaks and rattles and wind noise addressed. Car remained at dealership for 5 days. Returned with A-pillar popping noises reduced but not eliminated. Rattling in area around glove box not fixed. Wind noise not fixed. No charge. 10. April 13, 2005, second oil change and TSB "repairs" to window trim and glove box. Rattling in area around glove box not fixed. Wind noise not fixed. 11. May 15, 2005, received notice from Lexus regarding brake booster voluntary replacement option. Now my wife is afraid of the vehicle... Needless to say, I'm a little disappointed with this car. I will say that Bergstrom Lexus has been excellent to deal with. I think they are trying anything they can think of to help. The quality control, fit and finish, and body integrity issues with this vehicle are not what I expected from Lexus (or from any manufacturer who charges what we paid for this vehicle).

I have the same problem with both of my RX300s. It seems like the idle is running low when the car is sitting in drive. When I put it in park, the idle goes up slightly and the vibration noise goes away. I'm sure there is a way to modify the car to fix the problem.

Okay, got my manual with me...Before you check any fuse, turn your key to "accessories" position or "on" position, do not start the engine. See if your lighter works. The pressure created from the heated coil is what makes the lighter pops out. If the light doesn't work, it obviously won't create any presure so it won't pop out. The fuse you are looking for is fuse #5, rated at 15 amp. This is located in the Driver's side kick panel. Exit the car, duck under the steering wheel and look up just above the gas pedal. You should see a fuse box. It is covered with a plastic cover. This is driver's side kick panel. You are looking for FUSE #5