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undefined :cries: Help, have 2002 ES300 purchased 1/02 with 27,000 miles. Car is washed weekly & is garaged. The alloy rims are starting to blister. Any one else have same problems?

Changed the battery and now my dashboard and all electronic out car will not shift into gear but is running. Now it won' even start and run today? Help please single mom of 5 need my car running great. Any ideas?

https://lexusenthusiast.com/2016/04/21/sponsor-lexus-rc-f-sport-on-20-inch-vossen-vf-6-wheels/

Is there a product that I can install tha twill give me AUX input in my non Nav stereo? I would like to hook up my Sirius. This is on a 2000 LS400.

Welcome to the club. First you need to check and make sure the battery is good. If it's good then with that amount of miles it's a good bet that the starter has died.

I recently purchased (Sept 18) a 2002 Lexus RX300 2WD 123K, that was only owned by one other person. It does have some minor body dents and dings, the interior is like new. When I purchased it the MILwas on and the DTC code was P0440. I started checking for Vac line leaks as that is what the Lexus dealer had told the previous owners. Then suddenly the VSC and TRAC off lights came on and now the DTC are P1135, P1155, and C1201. I cannot believe that both of the A/F sensors would go bad at the same time.

Very nice!

Update with a happy ending... So I posted this thread on many lexus blogs and several people responded that I should consider checking all the fuses. One thread suggested looking at the 30 amp AN1 fuse under the big cover in the engine area. That exact fuse was dead. I researched the circuit for that fuse and it controls the ignition including the spark plug coil. I replaced the AN1 fuse and the GX started right up but died in seconds and the fuse was blown again. It also sounded like I had a leaking exhaust manifold on the passenger side. I immediately noticed the spark plug #2 from the firewall on passenger side was coated in soot. I removed the 10mm bolt and pulled on the coil assembly and the top coil box broke away from the coil shaft connected with a tail of copper wire. I pulled on the wire and the rest of the coil shaft assembly came out including the spark plug. Thats right, the spark plug was not screwed in to the head. I replaced the coil pack with a NAPA part, added a new iridium plug, added another 30 amp fuse and it started right up and remained running. This fix ended up taking about 15 minutes and under $100, a big win win. But how in the hell did that plug get so loose. The odor I smelled was the exhaust melting the silicone boot and plastic housing. I ran codes and it came back as a spark plug coil. How awesome is it that I know not a lot about cars and a few hours on the internet and helpful suggestions from people all over got me back on the road - THANKS to all who helped.

Hello everyone, So we own a '99 RX 300; we believe ourselves to be the second owners - purchased from original dealer : Lexus of Portland after lease return. Purchased in '05 for $17K. The odo was pushing 75K. The test drive threw a "Chk. Eng," lite but we bought it anyway after the svc. dept. cleared it with an explanation of what set it sounded mundane & unremarkable. The transmission failed about 60 days (78Kmi) later. Dealer made good on it. Currently still enjoying our ownership experience {200 K and counting}. Issues we've encountered are: 1] Alternator belt noise that turned-out to be a failing Alt. bearing/'Cocked" pulley [after 3 belt replacements]-Had never witnessed an alternator fail like that and NOT stop charging &/or make a racket with "metal-to-metal" contact. This one manifested neither. 2] exhaust leak from front exh. header cross-under flex connector : age (TBE) 3] C/E Light O2 Sensor Inbd Bank - These are "heated" sensors; that circuit should be expected to fail over time. Since they were both OEM commonsense supported both be replaced. Murphy's law as well. 4] C/E Light [Code 1354] - VVT Oil Control Valve Bank 2 - This one was tricky and troublesome; seems there was some kind of terminology mix-up in getting the right part; ended-up replacing Bank 1 & 2. 5] Mysterious run of tire flats started around 160K - Maddening because it followed the purchase of new tires. Turned-out the flashy factory CHROMED mags were manifesting a corrosion caused finish failure; had to replace them. 6] C/D player failed : BEAT THE DEALER out of their "rip-off" on that one; found the ONLY NATIONAL repair outlet and dealt direct. SAVED $$ on that one. 7] Driver's Door window drag w/ noise come the wet season : suspect channel guide felt needs replacement [body shop job] haven't done it yet. We've also begun to see water collection in the spare tire well & left rear {driver's side} fender well below the cargo pocket. Rough winter [2016], unsure if it's an established problem or fleeting.. 8] Taillight bulb-out indicator {hint: Don't forget to look at the "Hi-Mount" brake light in the lift door} 9] Driver's seat OTBD bolster fabric failure : $250 recover. 10] 178K we had the entire engine checked out for full field service. I knew the T-Belt was over due along with the ancillary items that usually are included in that work awa the brake fluid was no longer clear {in need of change} & the A/T was due a complete fluid flush BUT they found Head Gaskets just beginning to leak coolant & oil {This should be expected because of the steel block vs aluminum head design of 3.0L}, P/S pump was leaking . A little over $4K later we've got a car that should take us to 500K mi. without a whimper. That last repair was done by an independent shop I thought I could trust; everything else was DIY [I'm a certified mech]. One area that I tend to look for application of after-market improvements is the brakes. To that end I HIGHLY RECOMMEND to anyone with a desire for the best stopping experience & reduced brake service costs to seriously consider the POWERSTOP Extreme Performance Drilled & Slotted Disc Rotors. They can't be resurfaced but if you're diligent about oversight on your pad wear you'll easily get two pad changes out of any set. You should buy the POWERSTOP pads with them. I live in the PNW, 1800' elevation; I use engine compression for deceleration as much as I can [the wife has adopted the technique as well]. First the O/D is switched off and then I shift to second as required to reduce speed. So even though hills are an "average trip" for this vehicle, in this way my service-to-service interval is extended dramatically. Rotor warpage is a thing of the distant past in my driving experience. I also have chosen to rebuild my struts in all four corners. Don't cut corners on that when you choose to have it done, replace all associated components. Finally I have used Mobil 1 Synthetic on a normal service life cycle; that is to say that the vehicle sees 10+ miles [min.] per "key-turn" operation for 98% of it's service duty. That usually provides 8-8.5K miles between LOF. {Severe Duty is city driving with under 10 mi & stop'n'go}

I have a 2000 RX300. Last year, it happened once. I took the key out and the engine didn't turn off. It was still running. I tried several times putting the key in/out but it still kept running. I drove it around and after driving little bit, it finally turned off. It worked fine for almost a year and it happened again. This time, same thing, many tries on using key in/out did nothing, the engine still was running so I drove it around but it died while driving. I smelt something burning on the exhaust. Now I can't get it to start back again. Thankfully, it's in a parking lot currently. I'll try to get a jump start later and see if that works. What do you guys think? What's happening?

Wow that Celsior is gorgous...

installed these moldings myself..as per previous post..

armcomdes, I haven't had to do this fix on any of our Lexus models , but had two Subaru's that did. The subies was a simple fix because of the shape of the shields, fitting close to the front resonator and covering part of the exhaust pipe as well. I simply put a larger exhaust clamp right around the heat shield at the pipe entering the resonator, and clamped the heat shield right to the resonator. Problem solved for the next 3 years until trade time. The ES muffler shields are different, much wider area coverage, and not as close to the muffler. A down and dirty fix would be to use plumber's strapping (comes in a roll with lots of holes in it. Cut off a section long enough to go between the trunk floor and the heat shield, and then down around the muffler and back up to the strap again. Pull it tight to force the heat shield to collapse onto the muffler, and tighten the ends together with a long bolt and nut. To keep it looking less obvious, position the strapping as far forward on the muffler as possible to do the job, but still not be seen from the rear of the car, if possible. The only other sure way to silence the rattle is a new heat shield and mounting bolts, because yours have rusted off. Good Luck!

If it's water and not coolant, I would suspect a blocked A/C drain.

Anything can break at any time. If you happen to be Irish, that means often.

I always think heater core. Does the water have a smell?

My coolant temperature gauge doesn't work. The needle went down very slowly over the course of couple of years. Now it stays at the lowest level and won't move. What should I do? Replacing with a new gauge or replacing some capacitors or something else? (It's a 1990 L'S 400 with 432000 miles). Please help. Thanks

Here you go... AS-LH-ML.pdf

Guys, You both need to share your disappointment with Lexus USA. Write letters to their complaints departments explaining the issue including several pictures. Be polite, but firm in expressing your disappointment with the lack of concern shown by your dealerships in dealing with the problem. Explain that you both belong to this forum, and hope that you don't have to share your treatment to the forum members, Consumer Reports, the Better Business Bureau in your state, and all of your friends and relatives. You hope that Lexus would reevaluate your issue, as you know of at least one other owner who has the same exact problem. Also state that their response to your issue will help you to decide whether or not you will purchase another Lexus in the future. I can tell you that this has worked for me over the years with GM on a repair for a 77 Corvette, 3 months after the warranty was up. It also worked with Toyota on a used Cressida we purchased. In the GM case they gave us the rear end parts free of charge, and required us to pay the labour charges for the repair. More than fair. As for Toyota, they gave the dealership the parts for free, and paid them to install a new sunroof computer, and this on a four year old used car. I repeat, be firm but fair with them. Tell them that on a vehicle of this age, initial cost, and reputation in the industry, that you would expect that Lexus would want to correct the situation and keep a valued customer. Good Luck, and let us know how it turns out.

Assume you have AWD since you said 17 (RWD usually come with 18 stock) OEM 17 should be 17x8 +45, with 225/45R17 square all around The 2IS body is really designed for a stagger setup, so the rear fender is much more aggressive than the front I am currently running 18x8.75 +35 with 225/40R18, front is pretty flush but rear is still tucked in (because of statement above) Future plans to go 18x9 +25 to +30 ish, with either 225/40R18 or possibly try to fit 235/40R18 Key is to stay within 3% of total diameter from stock tire size Also, rule of thumb when upsizing wheel diameter is to have tires down by 5% of width Example, in my case Stock = 225/45R17 1 UP = 225/40R18 2 UP = 225/35R19 3 UP = 225/30R20 ***with exceptions for specific cases where you need to go narrower (215, etc.) in order to fit and prevent rubbing A better upgrade from 225/45R17 would be 255/35/R18 (or 255/30R19)...which is closer to stock diameter than 225/40R18 (or 225/35R19)...........however it's hard to fit 255/35R18 or 255/30R19 in the front depending on suspension height and wheel offset Anyways, for an AWD, 18x8.5 19x8.5 18x9 19x9 square setups are the norm Many go for stagger setups on the AWD 2IS as well keeping front and rear rolling diameter within 1%, however this is done at your own discretion (best combinations are 235/35R19 front with 275/30R19 rear, or 225/35R19 front with 265/30R19 rear) EDIT: in regards to bigger/heavier wheels slowing you down Yes heavier wheels not only slow you down due to added weight, but also puts more stress on suspension components due to added unsprung weight. That's why most people when changing wheels go for lighter wheels. This can be offset by added tire weight, but depending on combination most end up with a net loss in weight (which is a good thing). Lowering = lower center of gravity = less body roll and better handling Wider (both width and offset wise) = more stability and better handling But of course there are downsides such as alignment issues which can be corrected

I own a 1995 Lexus ES 300 with 110,000 miles and am located in Northern New Jersey. Recently I replaced all six spark plugs and all six plastic coil connector clips, which is the first time that these items have been replaced on my car. I used NGK OEM Iridium spark plugs from Autozone and OEM connector clips. After finishing the job, the car started OK the first few times but ran extremely rough and would not rev beyond about 3,000 RPM. After successfully starting it 3-4 times, it now will not start up at all. I have rechecked all of my electrical connectors and air hose connections, reset the on-board computer by unpligging the battery, and found no error codes on my OBD II reader. Wouild one bad plug/coil/connecotor set prevent the car from starting up? If so, is there any easy way to diagnose which plug/coil pair is causing my issue? If dirt or grease had accidentally gotten into my air intake manfold or throttle housing, could that be causing my start-up and rough engine issue? Any suggestions on how to further troublseshoot and isolate my exact problem would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your guidance!

Check to see if something has fell down in the cig. lighter holder like a coin or something. This will cause the climate control to not work and the fuse to blow. Check that first...

Hi there guys, My 1994 SC400 is having fuse problems. Here is the problem. When i start my car and it is hot out and i decide to turn on the a/c the climate control unit turnsw on then seconds later the fuse blows and the whole unti turns off. so i replaced the fuse and turned it on again the following night ( by this time is was cooler out ) and the a/c unit / climate control was left on. (because the fuse blew before) but surprisingly it didnt blow. the unit works perfectly fine and it blew cold air and hot air also every function works. what is causing the units fuse to blow when it is warm out? what can i do to fix this? thanks guys i appreciate any ideas or solutions

Hmm, dead post,oh well. So I will post my answer based on my experience today. I did some searches and most were dead wrong with a few being right on battery replacement . That is a probelm, sorting out the guys who guessed and never did it to the guys who knew and did it. This was a trip and even the Lexus dealer gave me a wrong answer. One wrong answer and I won't believe anything you say. Changing the battery is just like any other old car. Nothing special and nothing to worry about if you have done it before. Short out a lead and you have had it. . 1 The radio- If you have a dot blinking on and off that means it has a security code # . Don't install the battery but take it to the dealer and get hosed. My radio had never been assigned a code number and there is no danger of locking it up. 2. Some cars but NOT the LS 460 require a 9V jumper in the cigar lighter to keep all electronics live. Lexus has a built in hold up so you will not have to worry about anything being lost. The cigar lighter can not be used with a hold up because it is disconnected when the car is turned off. I checked it with a voltmeter. . Do NOT turn the car on so you can use it. I have no idea what might happen but you would probably be in a lot of trouble.$$$$ Tools needed a .Screwdriiver to pry battery terminal open after the bolts have been losened. b, spanner wrench 10MM and 11MM for undoing terminal clamps on battery. c . Phillips screw driver to press clips open d. roll of duct tape TURN OFF ALL THINGS IN THE CAR AND PLACE THE KEY FOB IN ANOTHER ROOM !! Start by removing two plastic panels on the passengers side covering the battery. There is one big panel over the front wheel and one small panel near the cowl with rubber weather seal that have to be removed. Gently fold over the small panel toward the drivers side. To remove the panels locate the clips. Push in the center, you will hear a click. Push them all in. They are all loose and if you pick the panel up, for sure, you will loose a few. Cover them with duct tape so they don't pop out. or store in a box. I had several clips missing from the dealers work and or Jiffy Lube. Before you start buy a full set from Lexus. You need these anyway after the miscreants work on your car. in the future. The clips are not user frendly and tricky. With the panels off, the battery is in plain sight and very easy to get out compared to a Jag I once owned. You will have to unbolt the terminals. and a hold down clamp . First roll up all the windows and turn everything off incuding AC and the radio. Remove the key fob starter to another room . You don't want to turn the car on with the Fob. If you do you are dead meat. Prepare a series about 8" long of duct tape. Fold back about 1" on each end and stick it to the other side. Unbolt the hold down fixture. It has one nut. Duct tape the rod to the front side so it can't flop forward and get in the way while the new battery is being installed. Using the 10MM and 11MM spaner undo the hot + lead toward the drivers first. Use extreme caution do not tiouch the spanner or lead to the frame and short it out. When the terminal is unbolted you may have to use a screw driver to pry it open so you can remove it. When it comes off cover it with the duct tape you prepared so no metal shows. Move it to one side. There is a lot of room but keep it away from metal. Using the spanner again repeat the process and move the minus - lead to one side. Pull out the old battery and install the new one. Very easy to do. Install the clamp down holder. Place the plastic panels in place. The clips have to be reset. Lift from panel and push in the center part so it sticks above the out side ring. I used channel locks. Its not easy. You may loose some. I told you to have replacements on hand. Listen up. Insert the clip and push down. That's easy. You can off course remove all the clips and place in a box for safe keeping. Your choice. All done. If you are an expert battery installer just rip the old battery out and install the new one. There is nothing that you have to do to protect the settings that I know of. This was confirmed by some others advice. Then there were others talking about using a 9 V hold up and a bunch of other nonsense. Who do you trust? I'm a engineer, MSEE and paid cash for our LS460. However anyone can say that. Good luck. This took me 15 minutes to install and two days to find out nobody knew how to do it. Rant- what's with our education system that kids can graduate and know absolutely nothing about electricity but stuff about Zeus ? Unreal, in this electrically driven world. Rant #2 How can we expect an electric car to work for years when I have to replace the battery in my Gas powered car every 4 years? Batteries suck and guess what? Toyota said that just last week as they pulled the plug on their all electric car.

Lexus replacement batteries are interstate . A battery installed at the dealer have a 7 year pro rated replacement warranty. A LS 460 does not have a radio code. There are many systems on a LS460 that may need to be re- initialized upon battery replacement . A LS 460 is fastenating technology .

Hi and welcome to the Lexus Owners Club I am wondering if the AC unit is faulty. How many times has the fuse blown and do you have the correct amp fuse plugged in?

guy4rmsky, There are 4 sunroof drain tubes, two up front that exit down the A pillars, and two that run from the rear side channels of the sunroof, and exit down through the C pillar and out between the rear bumper cover and the sheet metal, just back of the rear wheel. If those rear drains are plugged, or the drain hose has come off the tube at the sunroof channel, you'll get water into the back seat area. If the tube has come off, its usually because the plastic tubing has aged and split. Sometimes you can put a long copper tube on the end of a compressor hose, and with the sunroof partially opened, get it back to the rear of the sunroof side channel and blow out the drain tube. The only other way is to pull the weatherstrip from around the rear door, remove the rear seat bottom and back, pop the C pillar moulding off, remove the overhead assist strap, and gently pull down the headliner to get at the end of the drain tube and reattach it or replace it. The only other way for water to get into the back seat area, is through the trunk seal, the tail lights or the rear windshield. Sometimes the shape of the trunk floor will allow water from these areas to flow forward and into the back seat area. You have some detective work on your hands. Good Luck!

I know, it may be too late for, but have a look at this vid - maybe it will help you to defeat this navigation system's behavior:

A previous post from ScottRoy: I can't say this will be true for your LS 430, but for my 2004, I tried pulling ECU fuses and that didn't work. When I pulled the battery negative cable off for a few minutes, then restored it, the nav system re-loaded. Apparently, there is another power line going to the ecu (to maintain the memory) that doesn't go through the indicated ECU fuses in mine. Maybe yours? I was worried I'd loose a bunch of memorized settings throughout the car, but only lost the previous destinations list. Not bad.

Here's the diagram. Audio System Non-ML.pdf

Well one of my license plate light bulbs burned out, easiest change on a LS. the info below might be of some help to someone. 1999 Lexus LS400 Car Light Bulb Socket Sizes Low Beam Headlight Bulb Size: 9006 High Beam Headlight Bulb Size: 9005 Parking Light Bulb Size: 2825 Front Turn Signal Light Bulb Size: 7440 Rear Turn Signal Light Bulb Size: 7440 Tail Light Bulb Size: 7443 Stop Light Bulb Size: 7443 High Mount Stop Light Bulb Size: 921 Fog/Driving Light Bulb Size: 9006 License Plate Light Bulb Size: 2825 Back Up Light Bulb Size: 7440 Front Side Marker Light Bulb Size: 2825 Rear Side Marker Light Bulb Size: 2825 Glove Box Light Bulb Size: 37 Step/Courtesy Light Bulb Size: 194 or 74 or DE3021 Trunk/Cargo Area Light Bulb Size: 194 Instrument-General Light Bulb Size: 194

Thanks for the compliments :) By convert i meant you can simply buy the OEM HID version Rx330/350/400h headlights and switch them out with yours. The headlights size and bolt patterns are exactly the same (not 100% sure- but based on experience, it tells me they are). You don't need to take the headlights apart at all. The wires for the ballast etc can be accessed from outside of the headlights, so you should be good with that too :) Now, there are TWO "types" of the HID Rx330/350 version headlights. Obviously there's the halogen type (the type you have) but there are TWO different types for the HID headlights- which look exactly the same from the outside, so it can be tricky. The first HID version has an HID projector and bulb, with only the auto-leveling. (No AFS function) The second HID version uses a similar HID projector and bulb, but has the components for both the auto leveling AND the AFS system. Aka some 04-09 Rx330/350's out there have HID without the AFS. So if you see an Rx330/350 with HID's, it still not might have AFS. The 06-09 Rx400h's all came with the HID with AFS, but the Rx330 and Rx350's mixed and match. The only way to tell the difference between "HID with AFS" and "HID without AFS" is by looking at the back side of the headlights. I don't have pics, but when researching the headlights you should be able to tell the difference. Some sellers might say "non-AFS" and "AFS" to differentiate the two, but it's best to look. Just don't assume because you see the projector that it must have AFS... The last thing you want to do is get the right side headlight being the HID AFS version and the left side headlight the HID non-AFS version. You'll be able to tell the difference in output and cutoff line shape between the two ;) If you want, you might want to get the HID non-AFS version headlights, this way you can avoid having to worry about aiming the AFS motors... BUT, the projector used in this non-AFS version headlight does not perform as well as the AFS version headlight projector. Personally, i would get the HID AFS version headlights just for the better output :)

You can buy a used set of OEM HID Projector - version 04-09 Rx330/350/400h headlights and do the conversion. The bolt patterns are the same. You will need to do some hardcore wiring though, as the plugs will be very different. You'd need to splice the wires going to your present halogen low beam bulb, and wire them to the HID headlight ballast. The 12V will activate the ballast which will illuminate the HID bulb. No extra harness required, as there's enough current there. Then splice your present high beam bulb to the HID headlight's high beam bulb, which is the same. You will also lose the AFS/Auto-Leveling functions, as these both require special computer and switch components worked into the car's main computer. The halogen car's don't come with the software in the computer, so it wouldn't be possible. There have been people though, who have bought special motor drivers to work the auto-leveling motors, so you can move them manually via a switch you put in the cabin, but again, it would require a lot of wiring. And when buying the HID version headlights, stay away from the 04-06 Rx330 headlights as many of them have a condensation problem you won't find out about until you've already installed them in the car. The headlights produced for the 07-09 Rx350/400h no longer had the problem and are your best bet It'll be a fun project :) Good luck!

It seems that I might have a similar problem. At speeds of 120/130 km/h the engine seems to hold back when you lift off the gas pedal and than want to accelerate again. You have to really punch it to pick up speed again. Same thing happened on a roundabout at 20/30 km/h when it had to be really kicked to get some speed again. But it happens only every now and then. Now I want to check the pedal position sensor and the connector / multiplug as described in this topic. Can anyone point it out to me (pictures??) because my wife has to look at it since I'm in a wheelchair for the moment. Michel

I finally got the stock sub working with my aftermarket stereo. No audio integration harness is needed. All you need is a RCA to speaker wire cable and tap into the Sub + and Sub - wires (black wire and white wire). I was following the diagram http://www.intellexual.net/faq/lexusstereo.swf for Socket D and it lists the Sub + signal as D1 and Sub - signal as D5 ; however that did not work so I thought maybe I was looking at the diagram backwards. So I tried tapping the speaker wire to D4 and D10 and heard the subwoofer. So it appears you need to tap into D4 and D10 instead of D1 and D5. Great day. Got the subwoofer working and installed the double DIN Metra kit.

A bunch of LX engines prior to 02 had the exhaust manifold problem. It tends to crack in an area that is not easily seen, and it gets worse with age. Lexus replaced the ones that went bad during the warranty period. The replacements do not seem to have the problem. If you find a used one, be wary - it may have the same inherent weakness. Ordering the replacements should give you the updated parts - whether from Toyota or Lexus. If you know of a good mechanic, they can replace the manifolds. I just would not get a used part for fear of getting one of the faulty ones.

I am wanting to raise my GS300 up on jack stands to in order to remove all four brake rotors for service. Where is a safe place to lift the car with a floor jack other than the scissor jack points on the side of the car? There was a previous message on this back in 04, but the question was never answered. Thanks for the help.

Actually lexus082 solved the problem for me. My gf is the primary driver of the car and she took out the cigarette lighter since she didn’t want anybody smoking in the car and she never covered it. There was a penny in the lighter that blew the fuse. We didn’t know about it because we didn’t use the cigarette lighter and I was unaware until lexus082 told me that the fuse also was for the environmental control unit. Removing the penny and changing the fuse solved the problem. Once again thank you for your help and hopefully some day I will be able to help someone else the way you have helped me.

There is an under the hood fuse that is 100 amp and also has control over that area of the car.

Thank you.

It is rather simple and not much to worry about . To remove the wheel disconnect the battery for atleast 10 minutes.You will lose all memory radio and time settings. This will discharge the SRS system, it only needs about 1 minute but i would rather wait longer. You will need to remove the side flaps to get to the torx screws at each side. This will loosen the airbag ,after that you have to attach a steering wheel puller to pop off the wheel which is flanged incase the nut falls off. Just disconnect when you are done ,that is it.

Thanks for your reply- I'm new to this site so can you help me with searching under the threads- show I just use the search button?

I don't know if this is where I am supposed to post this, so I hope this is the right place... I have a 2000 RX 300. I love it BUT I have had a few problems, and the main one that is driven me crazy since my 10,000 check up, is the rattle vibration noise at the dash on the drivers side.., The dealership service dept. has tried to fix it with no results, it still makes that noise..... Not all the time, but the majority of the time. My car is now 5 yrs old with 45,000 miles on it. I am the original owner, I am very particular about my car and keep it looking new. I have just recently noticed the hesitation with the transmission that has been mentioned, and my car as I post this is being serviced, so I hope they do fix it. My glove box has to be slammed to shut, they supposedly adjusted it the last time it went for a check up.... but it still needs to be slammed hard to close. So that has been my experience with my Lexus.. BUT like I mentioned at the beginning of this post.... I do love my Lexus!!! I also want to mention that I do like the RX 300 better then I like the RX330. It feels alot more spacious inside. The only thing I like better about the RX 330 is the turning radius.

I came here today specifically looking for a thread like this. I am so unhappy with my dealer right now I could scream. Long story short, EVERY time I take it in for something that should be warrantied, they try to tell me it's not covered. I have the 100,000 Certified Lexus Warranty and currently have 76,000 miles on my 2000 RX300. The latest is weird-the HANDLE on the back hatch broke! I did not do anything to it-one day I tried to open it and it just jiggled-kind of like when it's locked. So I take it in and it takes them 90 minutes to tell me that the handle is broken and they need to order a part. And that they called the Corporation and it is NOT covered under warranty. AND it will cost ME $423.00!! I am so stunned. I paid extra money for this vehicle so that I would have the certified warranty. I could have purchased it from a non-Lexus dealer for much cheaper, but thought I would have better coverage by going through THEIR dealer. We called Lexus and "Raul" told us he'll speak to his boss and get back to us within 2 days. I am seriously considering NOT buying another Lexus because there are only two dealers within a reasonable driving distance from me and this is BS. Plus this stupid dealer once again did NOT have a loaner for me so I had to sit there the whole time. I am thoroughly disappointed by this and hope that the corporation will help me out. Otherwise I know for sure I will NOT buy another Lexus. I'll be in the market for a new SUV within the next year, and I'll tell you, right now the BMW is looking mighty nice. VERY DISAPPOINTED IN LEXUS OF BROOKFIELD, WISCONSIN Jill

Vehicle: 04 RX330 Purchased: 8/16/04 Dealer: Lexus of Madison in Madison, WI ("Lexus M") Current Service Performed by Bergstrom Lexus in Appleton, WI ("Lexus B") Problems: 1. Took delivery and car developed shimmy at 55 mph, returned to Lexus M, wheels/tires were out of balance (rebalanced) - no charge. 2. After 4 weeks dash popping noise developed in proximity to both A pillars or dash side air vents, rattled detected in proximity to glove box. Returned to Lexus M for 1000 mile service (repair undertaken, problems not fixed) - no charge. Began to notice the transmission hesitation (but based on comments from this forum decided to wait and see if this problem would persist - it still does). 3. Mid-September had "falling out" with sales person at Lexus M due to answers given on Toyota follow-up questionnaire. I will not do business with Lexus M again due to this experience. 4. Oct 4, took vehicle to Lexus B to address dash squeaks and rattles. Inspection performed. I was informed that one air vent was "broken," service tech recommended replacing both (parts ordered) and suggested that when the parts were in they would conduct their own "in house" repairs for the dash problems using a system that they had developed over the winter of 03-04 to deal with all the problems that new RX330 owners were experiencing. Also noted the ticking sound from the lifters - was told that a TSB was coming out but that service could not be performed until TSB received. No charge. 5. Oct 18, vehicle returned to Lexus B for replacement of vents and other "fixes." No improvement following service. No TSB yet on the "ticking" sound. No charge. 6. Nov. 4, vehicle returned to Lexus B for first oil change. Requested that squeak and rattle issues be addressed again. Also began experiencing wind noise from driver side window at high speeds (e.g., excess of 70 mph) during cross wind conditions. Additional repair attempted by Lexus B with no success. No charge. 7. Dec. 17, vehicle returned to Lexus B to address first recall notice regarding tail light wiring. Repair completed. No charge. 8. March 7, 2005, vehicle returned to Lexus B to repair failure of driver side window opener. Problem fixed. No charge. 9. March 17, 2005, vehicle returned to Lexus B with instructions to keep vehicle until squeaks and rattles and wind noise addressed. Car remained at dealership for 5 days. Returned with A-pillar popping noises reduced but not eliminated. Rattling in area around glove box not fixed. Wind noise not fixed. No charge. 10. April 13, 2005, second oil change and TSB "repairs" to window trim and glove box. Rattling in area around glove box not fixed. Wind noise not fixed. 11. May 15, 2005, received notice from Lexus regarding brake booster voluntary replacement option. Now my wife is afraid of the vehicle... Needless to say, I'm a little disappointed with this car. I will say that Bergstrom Lexus has been excellent to deal with. I think they are trying anything they can think of to help. The quality control, fit and finish, and body integrity issues with this vehicle are not what I expected from Lexus (or from any manufacturer who charges what we paid for this vehicle).

We bought an '04 RX330 FWD 18" wheels, black on tan interior w/birds eye wood trim. We bought it in feb'05 w/17K on it and now have 25k. 1. Dash rattle. (Full TSB performed were they take off the dash and insulate the mounting clips. solved the problem) 2. Both visors replaced due to defect in flip up motion of vanity mirror. 3. Rubber exhaust hanger broken. (replaced by dealer) 4. Brake recall performed (switch changed by dealer) 5. Cup holder cover mechanism was sticking. (unstuck by dealer) 6. Injector ticking (yet to be serviced) 7. Hesitation (yet to be serviced) 8. Passenger side wind noise i think (yet to be serviced). All service and work done at Lexus of Bossier City LA

I have the same problem with both of my RX300s. It seems like the idle is running low when the car is sitting in drive. When I put it in park, the idle goes up slightly and the vibration noise goes away. I'm sure there is a way to modify the car to fix the problem.

I think it is pretty cheap when a corporation such as Toyota stops furnishing repair manuals. Once again big corporations don't care about us little people