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It could be a good opportunity if you really want an LS 500 and especially if you plan to keep it a long time. You might be able to negotiate a even lower price based on the vehicle's history. I read recently that there are still a lot of unsold new 2018 LS 500's so the market for them is apparently very soft. Other than its run-flat tires and no spare tire, my main problem with the LS 500 is the shrinking interior which now has a volume within a tenth of a cubic foot of the space of a 2019 Toyota Camry with its optional moonroof. The Camry we rented 6 weeks ago was actually roomier than an LS 500 since the rental Camry didn't have a moonroof. Of course, Toyota/Lexus is too ashamed of it to publish interior volume dimensions for the LS 500 so it's necessary to go elsewhere to find them: https://cars.usnews.com/cars-trucks/lexus/ls/2018/specs/ls-awd-398085 Lexus LS 500 - Passenger Volume (cu. ft.): 99.4 Toyota Camry (with moonroof) - 99.3 cu. ft. per https://www.toyota.com/content/ebrochure/2019/camry_ebrochure.pdf I know the luxury sedan market has shrunk due to the flight to SUV's but I never expected the Lexus LS interior to shrink.

Trevor, Thanks for the info. You were correct, I had not connected the temp sender wire. It is a bugger of a thing to locate and even more difficult to fit the connector when the entire loom is in situ. The sender unit is tucked in behind the plastic spark plug channel. Done now, so everything is fine. Thanks again, Alan.

IiAccessing Antenna Motor for 2000 LX470 in Ten Steps. The notched plastic cable came lose from my antenna and reeled-in completely into the motor; I could not replace the antenna without first removing that cable from the motor. 1. Remove the mast from the motor, by loosening and removing the bolt that secures it to the car fender. Put this bolt somewhere safe. 2. There is plastic cowling under the passenger-side wheel well. (It’s probably helpful to remove the front right tire/wheel, but not required; I just turned the wheel as far to left as possible and that provided good access.) 3. There are about 8 plastic rivets to pop-out, and two screws; you don’t need to take the piece completely out; just remove enough to gain access to the antenna motor. You’ll probably break the rivets when removing them and you’ll need replacements. You can get these from your dealer, however I found some generic plastic auto-body rivets at Ace Hardware that worked fine. 4. Once you can bend-back the cowling and access the motor, you’ll see the motor is fastened to one bracket with one bolt. Remove this bolt and the motor comes free. 4. It may require a little wiggling, but the motor should drop out. Carefully move the plastic protective cover. And then carefully unsnap the power cable connection. Note: I left the radio antenna wire connected. 5. To open the motor, there are about 5 or 6 screws to remove. It’s very greasy, so surgical gloves were helpful to wear. It’s sealed very tightly with grease, so you have to pry it open. 6. Once open, remove the broken plastic cable and then tightly reassemble the motor. 7. Reconnect the power cable and repackage the motor in the plastic protective wrap. 8. Slide the motor back in place loosely. Before tightening it in place to the bracket, push the mount through the fender mast hole and reattach the nut; this assures it’s at the proper height to be tightly secured. Once this is done, securely tighten the bracket bolt. 9. Now you can remove the exterior fender nut and install a new antenna mast. (Lesson learned: buy an OEM Toyota/Lexus mast. It’s are expensive, but worth it. I found myself in this predicament because I bought a cheap replacement on Amazon.com.) There are a number of posts and “how to’s” for reinstalling a new electric antenna mast ... so I won’t go into those details here. 10. Once you’ve reinstalled the antenna and are confident it’s working correctly, replace and remount the plastic wheel cowling. You should be good to go!

Drove some muddy trails last night. The car did way better than i expected.

The general rule is that if a repair or repairs within a short period of time are equal to or greater than 50% of the value of the car, then it may be time to buy a replacement vehicle.

A Lexus Field Tech Specialist made me aware of an aftermarket harness for LC500. Car Tunes in Largo, FL located the harness via a simple internet search and attached a standard front or rear camera. They did the installation for $600 total. The harness allows the camera to integrate with the stock display. When parking just push button on dash and front camera is on for 20 seconds. If you need more time, just push button again. Attached are pictures of camera in grill-(no cutting needed), picture of button and front camera view. Works like a charm-no longer stress parking. Also note carbon fiber wrap to door sills-looks great.

dont you guys have ebay up there?? Front Lower Control Arm RH RF Passenger Side for 95-00 Lexus LS400 Brand New 39.95 free shipping ? UK? 95-2000 ALL THE SAME

We don't currently have Lexus vehicles but I've bought navigation updates for our Toyotas numerous time with a 15% discount coupon from the Costco Auto Program at a participating Toyota dealership. It should be the same if you have a Costco membership and Lexus dealership near you participates in the Costco Auto Program. If you can do that, it would at least reduce the cost down to $178.50 not including tax. The fall 2018 update should be PT219-GEN08-18. Here is a link to a video that shows how a 2015 GS350 owner updated his navigation system with a micro SD card:

Just got the car, haven't had it 12 yrs. Thanks for the info!

The LX470 suspension is rough but nothing like "beating to death". This is having 3 different brands of tires what is most likely causing a bumpy ride. This is also a huge safety issue. In my region, we've recently had a driver who died as he was driving at circa 60mph, had to make a sudden maneuver but was unable to retain control of a car due to different tire threads and their different level of wear and tear. He smashed into a truck and died. Not ideally, but you can still have front/rear tires of a different thread pattern/wear and tear, however, both of the front tires should have the same pattern/wear and tear and both of the rear tires should have the same pattern/wear and tear (and you'd put the most worn tires on the rear axle). Ideally, all four tires should be the same. Other things which may cause a bumpy ride are: - dirt on the wheel disks. Not your case (having driven 300 miles, the dirt must have gone away); - a wrong wheel alignment. Best to perform a wheel alignment once a year.

I had a 1996, 2004, 2006 and now 2015.... there is no way that beating you to death is normal. If all the mechahicals are good then that leaves the tires. Trust me on the tires, get Michelin it you want a good ride. You get what you pay for and the other brands WILL impact ride quality.

Use your hand to pound on top of the instrument cluster will do the trick. It happened to my 96 two years ago. After pounding three or four times every few days in the morning, the problem went away, don't know when it will come back but that was a temporary fix.

Thank you. I managed to get it to start, and it was the starter relay! I popped it out and put it back in, and it worked just fine. Thanks for the diagnosis help though

Was the valet key stolen when the car was parked where you frequently park it? If not, the thief might not find your car again. You might be able to have the all the keys "deleted" from the vehicle ECU memory and then have the keys you still have programmed back in. The thief would still be able to unlock and gain access to your car but the stolen valet key could not be used to start the engine. If that is not good enough, yes, you can have the service center replace and program new keys but there will be significant expense to change the door and trunk locks and the ignition switch. Insurance may cover much or all of the cost if you have it.

as a NEW member, the FIRST thing you need to do is SEARCH other people's steering problems, this has been covered for years. there are even videos showing you how to fix it.. THEN if you dont understand, ask for help. a 5 cent garden hose washer will fix it (usually). see videos.. 2 screws to remove the covers, then 3 screws to remove the plate and you are looking at it.

I don't think the oil change or the sludge would be responsible for the engine cutting out. However, I would look for fault codes and also carry out grass roots diagnostics (checking battery terminals and battery condition and then carrying on through the car one step at a time). It's laborious but does throw up interesting faults that would otherwise go undetected. Check also the fuel quality and drain/refill if suspect

ok, I have a 99ls, bought in early 2010, I wrapped my alternator in a clorex bottle and it has been working for 7 years now

If you want to save $350 or more, you can also carefully remove the sensor, drill out a 1/16 through hole at the center of the rotary arm & stationary portion...then screw the rotary arm back in place with a tiny screw. I just finished this on mine & it works great. **Just make sure you have a low profile screw head so it doesn't bind into the silver sway arm. Also, you want to wallow out the rotary arm hole a little bigger than the screw - that way the screw only holds into the stationary sensor portion. You don't want the rotary arm engaged w/ the screw trying to turn it. I kept bumping the "trunk close" button when trying to pull away the trunk lid trim. If you remove the 2 top right fuses 10A & 5A in the left trunk fuse block, the trunk lights & trunk operation will stop while you work on the sensor.

I always apply some PTFE tape (plumbers use it for pipe joints) to the sump plug thread....never had a leak on anything ever since. This originally came about when I owned a Land Cruiser and the Toyota dealer asked whether I wanted the soft or hard compound seal for the plug. I foolishly chose the hard compound and leaked like a sieve. Someone suggested removing it and wrapping a couple of turns with PTFE and it worked a treat...nowadays I use it all the time on the 'belt & braces' principle.

Have you checked that the plastic casing/cap on the filter housing aren't cracked?

Adding a backup camera to a 2001-2003 LS430 is rather involved. There is a post on ClubLexus on how to do it on an LS430 with the Mark Lev system but I don't know if would work for the standard nav system: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-3rd-gen-2001-2006/511807-how-to-ls430-mark-levinson-everything-w-pics-and-part-s.html#post5620270 If you can't see the attachments in that post, here is a direct link to the YouTube video about it:

Still a few of us around though I upgraded to a 430 then 460L I still have the 98 that stays parked most of the time.

Yup, just give them time. They'll break through the main market scene soon enough.

Thanks for the reply. I am having all looked at on Wednesday. I shared your thought on the issues. I appreciate it! Thanks again.

Thanks Trevor for your answer! I have visited Lexus dealer today to they check vibration. Luckily they had a time to check that out. They check balance (did not find anything). Also they make a wheel rotation. Thats all they did. The vibration is now much much lower. Now it feels more like light tingle what could be felt only on good new freeway asphalt. So I probably will wait little while if this gets worse or may be better. This sounds strange that vinbration was almost fixed by the wheel rotation...

Struts are discussed all the time, but my choice is KYB struts and OE mounts....Have put them on RX300 and RX400h and a GMC Yukon....Love these struts. the knock noise is probably broken mount, but could also be a damaged stabilizer bar mount....

So got a reply, said any Toyota dealer can do lease work on a Lexus if no Lex dealer available. Now we know and knowledge is power! 🙂

I have a 1999 GS-300 with 130,000 miles on it. Had lots of issues with the vehicle cranking over recently. Got into my car turned the ignition and click, nothing happened. Tried to crank the engine again and click! Nothing again...... My battery was my 1st thought but, my lights were bright and radio and fan were working right. So I saw a couple postings on the lexus owners club and thought I would tackle this job myself. This problem was intermittent, sometimes the car turned over and sometimes it didn't. Recently it would take me up to 10 minutes for the car to crank over and start, so I had to do something. I just finished up the job in about 2 hours (start to finish) and thought somebody might read this and make it useful. So here I go to try and tell you how to fix the starter problem and tell you what tools you'll need. Actually after doing the job it was well worth the effort. The problem turned out to be the "Copper Contacts inside the Starter Solenoid" with a total bill of $5.00 (yep I said Five Dollars if you do it yourself). Before you begin, locate your local Alternator/Starter Rebuilding Shop, you'll need them for the Copper Contacts that are located inside the Starter Solenoid ($5.Dollars) They sold them to me separately. Tools required: Patience, 10mm., 12mm.,14mm.,15mm,16mm socket, socket wrench, universal swivel socket attachment, (2) Extra Long Socket Extensions 12"inches each, 9/32"nds nut runner or socket. So here we go: Step by step 1st Things First - you'll need to disconnect your battery to the car both positive and negative leads. Pop your hood. You need a 10 mm. socket and socket wrench to disconnect the battery. (Remember, you'll lose all your settings on your radio, seat memory etc.... but worth it - and if you have any warning light on your dash, like check engine light they'll go off too after you disconnect and reconnect the battery.) The starter and solenoid are located on the driver side of the car engine. They are piggybacked next to each other in one unit. 2nd - you need to disconnect the transmission dip stick to move it out of your way to get the starter out. (You'll need a 12mm. socket with socket wrench) The bolt is located at the top of the dip stick that is attached to the engine. Feel free to pull the dip stick all the way out and put it in a safe place. You don't actually need to take the outside shell of the dip stick out all the way just pull it out about 4 inches and move it to the right or left, it's attached at the bottom by a rubber wire holding clamp. Just move it aside for now. 3rd - Disconnect the lead wires that are going to the starter, there are two - one is a black push connector that you must push the center button in to remove the wire connector as you pull the wire out, and the other is under the rubber black boot that is the power connection that is coming from your battery. Pull back the black rubber boot and expose the 12 mm. nut that must be removed to get the cable off the starter. You'll need a 12mm. socket and wrench to get this nut off. Once you remove the cable put the 12mm. nut back on the starter so it doen't get lost. 4th - Crawl under your vehicle and take your 14 mm. socket, socket wrench and swivel adapter with you with (2) Extra Long 12" inch extentions, you'll need the extra lengths to get the bolts to turn and free your rachet up to swing and loosen the 14mm. bolt heads. Don't take the bolts out all the way, leave them in housing as long as the starter is able to come out. The only reason I say this is because the starter will be easier to re-install once your done fixing it. Now, take your starter out from the bottom, it's a little tight but it will come out. 5th - Put your starter on a work bench or preferably a Vice to hold the starter in place so it won't fall. Locate the (3) 9/32" inch cover nuts and remove them with a 9/32" inch nut runner or socket. Take care not to lose the nuts. Remove the top cover of the solenoid. Once you remove the top cover you'll see the two copper contacts on opposite sides of the solenoid. Remove the center copper solenoid, be careful because at the bottom of the solenoid is a pointed tip with a long 3" spring that actually pushed the started gear out once powered on with your ignition key. Put this center solenoid off to the side with the 3" Spring. Now locate the two copper contacts on opposite sides of the solenoid housing (these are the contacts that need to be replaced.. these are the parts that are causing all your problems with your starter - all for $5 Bucks, notice how black and pitted the copper contacts are). At this point this is where I actually took my whole starter to a Alternator/Starter Rebuildng Shop in a plastic bag with the solenoid cover off and showed them the starter and contacts and they had them in stock. (The 2 Copper Contacts) were tiny copper 90 degree clips with a 1/4 Moon Shape to them, no larger than 1 1/2"inches and no bigger than a quarter. Once I got the Copper Contacts back home the fun started! I can't believe how little they were and how easy they were going to be replaced for just $5. Five bucks. This was going to save me a ton of money. Now this is where you'll need to take the (2) nuts off the one side of the solenoid, one nut (12 mm.) is where we originally removed the cable wire from the battery and there is another nut that holds the copper contact into place. I think this is a 15mm. socket (but don't quote me on this one - sorry I forgot what size it was), but remove this nut also, this is the last nut holding the copper contact into place. Once you remove the nut you'll be able to slide the copper contact out, but be careful not to lose the thin washer and small rubber O-Ring attached to the Copper Contact Post. One side of the contact is a Rectangular Copper Square attached to a Copper Post the Copper Contact actually slides over the post for mounting purposes. Take note how the contact is positioned because you'll have to re-install the NEW Copper Contact the same way. You can remove the contact now. Make sure you note what Copper Contact goes where, one is larger than the other. Replace the contact with the same NEW COPPER CONTACT and re-install the same way. Now on the opposite side, slide back the rubber boot that is covering the other contact post bolt and nuts. Be careful because their is another small washer and "O-Ring" on the other side too. Take care to remove the Copper Contacts the same way and install the other NEW COPPER CONTACT and re-install the same way. Re-assemble the Nuts in the same manner and tighten. Slide the boot cover back over the post and re-assemble putting the center solenoid back inside the housing, re-install the cover of the solenoid. Your starter solenoid is now complete. Re-assemble everything is reverse order and now your done. Hope this helps the Do-It-Yourself Guys. Any questions, feel free to comment me back. Hope I didn't miss anything.... Blaise

Nice! Thought maybe I should share some more recent pics of my RX, the bumper and skid plates are still a work in progress.

The world of lifting RX vehicles is still pretty small so there aren't exactly any definitive guides but like any other strutted vehicle the same limitations in tire/wheel fitment would apply. The first limitation on my 300 was the rear spring perches because they are squattier than the fronts. Side clearance of the spring perch will limit how tall and wide of a tire you can fit without modification or for a certain offset/spacer. The next limitation for me was rubbing when turned full clock, not acceptable to me and I was able to fit mine with no rubbing. The taller and wider the tire the turning clearance is greatly reduced, its geometry but you can figure it out with a straight edge. Clock the wheels and take a straight edge across the inside sidewalls to the nearest obstruction and you can measure how much taller of a tire will fit without rubbing but leave some cushion. The closest point of the tire should be at the horizontal axis of the tire but make sure you look at fender clearances as well. Just take your time and measure everything until you are absolutely sure your fitment is what you want. You could also likely take it to a custom shop and they should be able to measure or use a jig to tell you what you can and can't fit. I would not recommend bringing the tire tread up past the bottom of the spring perch. If you do and you do not have ample clearances you can easily slash your sidewalls. If you are sticking with stock suspension the steering changes shouldn't be as drastic but just be ready for it to handle differently. I have not had to trim anything for mine and do not have anything rub except when I have 300-400 extra pounds in it and the suspension takes a really hard hit, mostly the rear where the outside tread just catches the lip of the fender. I need a little more travel or slightly stiffer springs in the rear. I think I am also running a larger wheel spacer than necessary (2"). Same thing for the front but don't hit the fender lip unless it is a really really hard suspension hit and I am turning. There is enough travel and clearance in the front if I am going straight over that really hard hit. I do not rub on the inside of the tire when turning but it is the outside front of the tire that hits the fender liner. That is only because it was a cheap aftermarket liner I was in a hurry to get in there to get some protection for my trans cooler before a trip. I had to cut the vents into the plastic and they puckered out into the wheel well so the tire catches them. I need to reinstall it so it fits correctly and likely make a little aluminum plate/grill for the vent slots so that doesn't happen. ***Edit- Brickwall says you have springs and shocks on the rear of yours and not a strut so that makes it a lot easier. You are then pretty much limited by the strut and turning clearance of the front then,

I will put an end to this mystery..... these are the trim finish panels that fit the "hole" in all 4 doors, you cant see them, but your fingers feel them when you use the opening to close the door.... they seem to fit 95-2000

Air is 80% Nitrogen.

Hey all! First post here, so I accidentally purchased this incredible 1998 LS 400 with 54K original miles. This isn't exactly a for sale ad, as I'm sure you'd all be happy to take a look at my new car - HOWEVER, the purchase was technically a mistake... Seeing as this was purchased sight unseen - I'm pretty happy with it's incredible condition! It is a California car, now in North Jersey and the timing belt was done at 48K miles.

I sure hope nobody followed this advice for adding lube to the studs. What can require 55 ft-lb torque dry, only needs 30 ft-lb lubed. This is at least 80% over torqued condition. You can seriously over stress the threads and the studs and/or nuts will fail! The torqued values given are from the manufacturer are for dry conditions. Do not modify this for your own safety. Two degrees in Mechanical Engineering and a career in machine designing gives me the qualifications for these statements.

Very nice!

http://www.lexomans.com/manguide-559.html

Update with a happy ending... So I posted this thread on many lexus blogs and several people responded that I should consider checking all the fuses. One thread suggested looking at the 30 amp AN1 fuse under the big cover in the engine area. That exact fuse was dead. I researched the circuit for that fuse and it controls the ignition including the spark plug coil. I replaced the AN1 fuse and the GX started right up but died in seconds and the fuse was blown again. It also sounded like I had a leaking exhaust manifold on the passenger side. I immediately noticed the spark plug #2 from the firewall on passenger side was coated in soot. I removed the 10mm bolt and pulled on the coil assembly and the top coil box broke away from the coil shaft connected with a tail of copper wire. I pulled on the wire and the rest of the coil shaft assembly came out including the spark plug. Thats right, the spark plug was not screwed in to the head. I replaced the coil pack with a NAPA part, added a new iridium plug, added another 30 amp fuse and it started right up and remained running. This fix ended up taking about 15 minutes and under $100, a big win win. But how in the hell did that plug get so loose. The odor I smelled was the exhaust melting the silicone boot and plastic housing. I ran codes and it came back as a spark plug coil. How awesome is it that I know not a lot about cars and a few hours on the internet and helpful suggestions from people all over got me back on the road - THANKS to all who helped.

Wow that Celsior is gorgous...

armcomdes, I haven't had to do this fix on any of our Lexus models , but had two Subaru's that did. The subies was a simple fix because of the shape of the shields, fitting close to the front resonator and covering part of the exhaust pipe as well. I simply put a larger exhaust clamp right around the heat shield at the pipe entering the resonator, and clamped the heat shield right to the resonator. Problem solved for the next 3 years until trade time. The ES muffler shields are different, much wider area coverage, and not as close to the muffler. A down and dirty fix would be to use plumber's strapping (comes in a roll with lots of holes in it. Cut off a section long enough to go between the trunk floor and the heat shield, and then down around the muffler and back up to the strap again. Pull it tight to force the heat shield to collapse onto the muffler, and tighten the ends together with a long bolt and nut. To keep it looking less obvious, position the strapping as far forward on the muffler as possible to do the job, but still not be seen from the rear of the car, if possible. The only other sure way to silence the rattle is a new heat shield and mounting bolts, because yours have rusted off. Good Luck!

no rubbing issues ? I want to do a 245/45/18 on a 18x8 35offset rim cant seem to find any info as to fitment most tire websites suggest 235/45/18 any input from any would be appreciated.Thanks

I always think heater core. Does the water have a smell?

EDIT: I live in south Florida and drive a '93 LS400 with the same wet headliner problem. There is nothing you can do to keep water from leaking past the moon-roof. It is designed to pass some water, that's why there is a catch-pan underneath. I wanted to replace the moon-roof gasket and was told by Lexus that the gasket itself was un-replaceable and that a new moon roof (just the glass with gasket) would cost $900. They did NOT say this would "fix" the leaking. I have the factory service manual and I can tell you that removing the headliner and sunroof assembly is not simple. The rear seat has to be removed, side pillar covers, window trim, seat belts all need to be removed in order to remove the headliner, it is at least a whole day, if not 2 day project. UPDATE (03/03/2014): I finally got it nicked. After removing the entire headliner, sunroof & tray assembly I noticed an accumulated layer of fuzzy crud in the bottom of the sunroof drain pan. Apparently this layer was absorbing water and slowing the progress of water trying to drain out of the pan. After cleaning this crud out and cleaning all hoses, drains etc. I replaced the assembly and waited for rain. When it rained I discovered that (arrgh!) Lexus had punched a bunch of holes in the drain pan for rivets, cable-runs, etc. and ALL of these were dripping water. NO WONDER the headliner was wet! A tube of silicone sealed the rivets and I had to unscrew the two cable-run housing assemblies from the drain pan (front, L & R) to goop them up with sealer. Re-assembled and waited for rain (not a long wait in FL). No water leaking from tubes, no water from rivets, housings, etc. and no overflow from drain pan. I can see rainwater flowing out of the drain pan through the drain tubes. My LS400 is again (relatively) watertight!

...and for posterity sake, exactly which fuse did you replace? Thanks.

Hi and welcome to the Lexus Owners Club I am wondering if the AC unit is faulty. How many times has the fuse blown and do you have the correct amp fuse plugged in?

For anyone looking at this thread Metra finally made a dash kit. They have wiring harnesses as well. I will Post a link to the site so you can get the product numbers. I would recommend just typing in the numbers and find the parts on Amazon or Sonicelectronics. They are much cheaper there than at a best buy or retail store. If the link doesn't work just go to Metraonline.com Good Luck! Hope this helps http://metraonline.com/vfg

her are some helpful wire colors for head unit (thanks DEI) 02 lexus es300 12+ constant blue/yellow 12+ acc gray ground brown illumination + green factory amp on pink/blue all wires above found at factory head unit plug left front spkr +pink -purple right front spkr +light green -blue left rear spkr +black -yellow right rear spkr +red -white all wires above found at factory amp (behind glovebox next to ECM) VSS (speed sense) purple/white found at ECM (behind glovebox next to factory amp)

A bunch of LX engines prior to 02 had the exhaust manifold problem. It tends to crack in an area that is not easily seen, and it gets worse with age. Lexus replaced the ones that went bad during the warranty period. The replacements do not seem to have the problem. If you find a used one, be wary - it may have the same inherent weakness. Ordering the replacements should give you the updated parts - whether from Toyota or Lexus. If you know of a good mechanic, they can replace the manifolds. I just would not get a used part for fear of getting one of the faulty ones.

Pictures of my adapter tray and coin holder. These items came installed from the dealer. I think they are stock on the 07 350. I did not see them listed on the Premium Plus package. You can also see the different ledges and diagonal divider in the adapter tray. This is what my original post was asking about. Why these shapes and sizes? Just getting fancy or is there some reason? Some specific function? Dave

Actually lexus082 solved the problem for me. My gf is the primary driver of the car and she took out the cigarette lighter since she didn’t want anybody smoking in the car and she never covered it. There was a penny in the lighter that blew the fuse. We didn’t know about it because we didn’t use the cigarette lighter and I was unaware until lexus082 told me that the fuse also was for the environmental control unit. Removing the penny and changing the fuse solved the problem. Once again thank you for your help and hopefully some day I will be able to help someone else the way you have helped me.