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  1. 1 point
    I suppose you could open the trunk pass through door behind the rear seat armrest. If your LS430 had the Ultra Luxury package with the separate rear HVAC system, that might have been why its trunk temperature was closer to that of the interior.
  2. 1 point
    undefined :cries: Help, have 2002 ES300 purchased 1/02 with 27,000 miles. Car is washed weekly & is garaged. The alloy rims are starting to blister. Any one else have same problems?
  3. 1 point
    This is the best online tutorial for your car that landar put together. Try to see what you have been missing. 98 1uz-fe Timing Belt And Water Pump Replacement How_to
  4. 1 point
    Thank you for your reply. It sounds like that's on my next thing-to-do list.
  5. 1 point
    Be very careful since you can potentially trash the engine. It seems like the pistons are contacting the valves. I would make sure that everything is in the correct position before proceeding and I can't be sure without knowing what you did before you removed the belt. Are you using a factory service manual or one of the online tutorials?
  6. 1 point
    This job is not difficult theres 4 bolts to remove the seat just be careful with the connectors underneath especially if there is an airbag. Pull the carpet back to gain access to the connector. The most difficult part is getting enough leverage underneath the car to break the sensor loose.
  7. 1 point
    A video clip of what is going on may help. A video is worth a thousand words.
  8. 1 point
    Greetings, I acquired my SC430 about 2 months ago, I felt the same way a little bit off. After driving the car more (weekends and good days) I have also learned to admire and enjoy it. It grows on you. I'm looking forward to Spring to drive with the top down, I'm sure I will enjoy it even more.
  9. 1 point
    I finally replaced it. I had to remove the passenger CAT, without removing the darn thing, I had no way to insert the bottom screw (on the top side). I did not need to drop the crossbar or raise the transmission. The car is quiet now.
  10. 1 point
    Is there a product that I can install tha twill give me AUX input in my non Nav stereo? I would like to hook up my Sirius. This is on a 2000 LS400.
  11. 1 point
    I recently purchased (Sept 18) a 2002 Lexus RX300 2WD 123K, that was only owned by one other person. It does have some minor body dents and dings, the interior is like new. When I purchased it the MILwas on and the DTC code was P0440. I started checking for Vac line leaks as that is what the Lexus dealer had told the previous owners. Then suddenly the VSC and TRAC off lights came on and now the DTC are P1135, P1155, and C1201. I cannot believe that both of the A/F sensors would go bad at the same time.
  12. 1 point
    Hello everyone, So we own a '99 RX 300; we believe ourselves to be the second owners - purchased from original dealer : Lexus of Portland after lease return. Purchased in '05 for $17K. The odo was pushing 75K. The test drive threw a "Chk. Eng," lite but we bought it anyway after the svc. dept. cleared it with an explanation of what set it sounded mundane & unremarkable. The transmission failed about 60 days (78Kmi) later. Dealer made good on it. Currently still enjoying our ownership experience {200 K and counting}. Issues we've encountered are: 1] Alternator belt noise that turned-out to be a failing Alt. bearing/'Cocked" pulley [after 3 belt replacements]-Had never witnessed an alternator fail like that and NOT stop charging &/or make a racket with "metal-to-metal" contact. This one manifested neither. 2] exhaust leak from front exh. header cross-under flex connector : age (TBE) 3] C/E Light O2 Sensor Inbd Bank - These are "heated" sensors; that circuit should be expected to fail over time. Since they were both OEM commonsense supported both be replaced. Murphy's law as well. 4] C/E Light [Code 1354] - VVT Oil Control Valve Bank 2 - This one was tricky and troublesome; seems there was some kind of terminology mix-up in getting the right part; ended-up replacing Bank 1 & 2. 5] Mysterious run of tire flats started around 160K - Maddening because it followed the purchase of new tires. Turned-out the flashy factory CHROMED mags were manifesting a corrosion caused finish failure; had to replace them. 6] C/D player failed : BEAT THE DEALER out of their "rip-off" on that one; found the ONLY NATIONAL repair outlet and dealt direct. SAVED $$ on that one. 7] Driver's Door window drag w/ noise come the wet season : suspect channel guide felt needs replacement [body shop job] haven't done it yet. We've also begun to see water collection in the spare tire well & left rear {driver's side} fender well below the cargo pocket. Rough winter [2016], unsure if it's an established problem or fleeting.. 8] Taillight bulb-out indicator {hint: Don't forget to look at the "Hi-Mount" brake light in the lift door} 9] Driver's seat OTBD bolster fabric failure : $250 recover. 10] 178K we had the entire engine checked out for full field service. I knew the T-Belt was over due along with the ancillary items that usually are included in that work awa the brake fluid was no longer clear {in need of change} & the A/T was due a complete fluid flush BUT they found Head Gaskets just beginning to leak coolant & oil {This should be expected because of the steel block vs aluminum head design of 3.0L}, P/S pump was leaking . A little over $4K later we've got a car that should take us to 500K mi. without a whimper. That last repair was done by an independent shop I thought I could trust; everything else was DIY [I'm a certified mech]. One area that I tend to look for application of after-market improvements is the brakes. To that end I HIGHLY RECOMMEND to anyone with a desire for the best stopping experience & reduced brake service costs to seriously consider the POWERSTOP Extreme Performance Drilled & Slotted Disc Rotors. They can't be resurfaced but if you're diligent about oversight on your pad wear you'll easily get two pad changes out of any set. You should buy the POWERSTOP pads with them. I live in the PNW, 1800' elevation; I use engine compression for deceleration as much as I can [the wife has adopted the technique as well]. First the O/D is switched off and then I shift to second as required to reduce speed. So even though hills are an "average trip" for this vehicle, in this way my service-to-service interval is extended dramatically. Rotor warpage is a thing of the distant past in my driving experience. I also have chosen to rebuild my struts in all four corners. Don't cut corners on that when you choose to have it done, replace all associated components. Finally I have used Mobil 1 Synthetic on a normal service life cycle; that is to say that the vehicle sees 10+ miles [min.] per "key-turn" operation for 98% of it's service duty. That usually provides 8-8.5K miles between LOF. {Severe Duty is city driving with under 10 mi & stop'n'go}
  13. 1 point
    I have a 2000 RX300. Last year, it happened once. I took the key out and the engine didn't turn off. It was still running. I tried several times putting the key in/out but it still kept running. I drove it around and after driving little bit, it finally turned off. It worked fine for almost a year and it happened again. This time, same thing, many tries on using key in/out did nothing, the engine still was running so I drove it around but it died while driving. I smelt something burning on the exhaust. Now I can't get it to start back again. Thankfully, it's in a parking lot currently. I'll try to get a jump start later and see if that works. What do you guys think? What's happening?
  14. 1 point
    Assume you have AWD since you said 17 (RWD usually come with 18 stock) OEM 17 should be 17x8 +45, with 225/45R17 square all around The 2IS body is really designed for a stagger setup, so the rear fender is much more aggressive than the front I am currently running 18x8.75 +35 with 225/40R18, front is pretty flush but rear is still tucked in (because of statement above) Future plans to go 18x9 +25 to +30 ish, with either 225/40R18 or possibly try to fit 235/40R18 Key is to stay within 3% of total diameter from stock tire size Also, rule of thumb when upsizing wheel diameter is to have tires down by 5% of width Example, in my case Stock = 225/45R17 1 UP = 225/40R18 2 UP = 225/35R19 3 UP = 225/30R20 ***with exceptions for specific cases where you need to go narrower (215, etc.) in order to fit and prevent rubbing A better upgrade from 225/45R17 would be 255/35/R18 (or 255/30R19)...which is closer to stock diameter than 225/40R18 (or 225/35R19)...........however it's hard to fit 255/35R18 or 255/30R19 in the front depending on suspension height and wheel offset Anyways, for an AWD, 18x8.5 19x8.5 18x9 19x9 square setups are the norm Many go for stagger setups on the AWD 2IS as well keeping front and rear rolling diameter within 1%, however this is done at your own discretion (best combinations are 235/35R19 front with 275/30R19 rear, or 225/35R19 front with 265/30R19 rear) EDIT: in regards to bigger/heavier wheels slowing you down Yes heavier wheels not only slow you down due to added weight, but also puts more stress on suspension components due to added unsprung weight. That's why most people when changing wheels go for lighter wheels. This can be offset by added tire weight, but depending on combination most end up with a net loss in weight (which is a good thing). Lowering = lower center of gravity = less body roll and better handling Wider (both width and offset wise) = more stability and better handling But of course there are downsides such as alignment issues which can be corrected
  15. 1 point
    I know, it may be too late for, but have a look at this vid - maybe it will help you to defeat this navigation system's behavior:
  16. 1 point
    I finally got the stock sub working with my aftermarket stereo. No audio integration harness is needed. All you need is a RCA to speaker wire cable and tap into the Sub + and Sub - wires (black wire and white wire). I was following the diagram http://www.intellexual.net/faq/lexusstereo.swf for Socket D and it lists the Sub + signal as D1 and Sub - signal as D5 ; however that did not work so I thought maybe I was looking at the diagram backwards. So I tried tapping the speaker wire to D4 and D10 and heard the subwoofer. So it appears you need to tap into D4 and D10 instead of D1 and D5. Great day. Got the subwoofer working and installed the double DIN Metra kit.
  17. 1 point
    Thanks for your reply- I'm new to this site so can you help me with searching under the threads- show I just use the search button?
  18. 1 point
    I don't know if this is where I am supposed to post this, so I hope this is the right place... I have a 2000 RX 300. I love it BUT I have had a few problems, and the main one that is driven me crazy since my 10,000 check up, is the rattle vibration noise at the dash on the drivers side.., The dealership service dept. has tried to fix it with no results, it still makes that noise..... Not all the time, but the majority of the time. My car is now 5 yrs old with 45,000 miles on it. I am the original owner, I am very particular about my car and keep it looking new. I have just recently noticed the hesitation with the transmission that has been mentioned, and my car as I post this is being serviced, so I hope they do fix it. My glove box has to be slammed to shut, they supposedly adjusted it the last time it went for a check up.... but it still needs to be slammed hard to close. So that has been my experience with my Lexus.. BUT like I mentioned at the beginning of this post.... I do love my Lexus!!! I also want to mention that I do like the RX 300 better then I like the RX330. It feels alot more spacious inside. The only thing I like better about the RX 330 is the turning radius.
  19. 1 point
    I came here today specifically looking for a thread like this. I am so unhappy with my dealer right now I could scream. Long story short, EVERY time I take it in for something that should be warrantied, they try to tell me it's not covered. I have the 100,000 Certified Lexus Warranty and currently have 76,000 miles on my 2000 RX300. The latest is weird-the HANDLE on the back hatch broke! I did not do anything to it-one day I tried to open it and it just jiggled-kind of like when it's locked. So I take it in and it takes them 90 minutes to tell me that the handle is broken and they need to order a part. And that they called the Corporation and it is NOT covered under warranty. AND it will cost ME $423.00!! I am so stunned. I paid extra money for this vehicle so that I would have the certified warranty. I could have purchased it from a non-Lexus dealer for much cheaper, but thought I would have better coverage by going through THEIR dealer. We called Lexus and "Raul" told us he'll speak to his boss and get back to us within 2 days. I am seriously considering NOT buying another Lexus because there are only two dealers within a reasonable driving distance from me and this is BS. Plus this stupid dealer once again did NOT have a loaner for me so I had to sit there the whole time. I am thoroughly disappointed by this and hope that the corporation will help me out. Otherwise I know for sure I will NOT buy another Lexus. I'll be in the market for a new SUV within the next year, and I'll tell you, right now the BMW is looking mighty nice. VERY DISAPPOINTED IN LEXUS OF BROOKFIELD, WISCONSIN Jill
  20. 1 point
    Vehicle: 04 RX330 Purchased: 8/16/04 Dealer: Lexus of Madison in Madison, WI ("Lexus M") Current Service Performed by Bergstrom Lexus in Appleton, WI ("Lexus B") Problems: 1. Took delivery and car developed shimmy at 55 mph, returned to Lexus M, wheels/tires were out of balance (rebalanced) - no charge. 2. After 4 weeks dash popping noise developed in proximity to both A pillars or dash side air vents, rattled detected in proximity to glove box. Returned to Lexus M for 1000 mile service (repair undertaken, problems not fixed) - no charge. Began to notice the transmission hesitation (but based on comments from this forum decided to wait and see if this problem would persist - it still does). 3. Mid-September had "falling out" with sales person at Lexus M due to answers given on Toyota follow-up questionnaire. I will not do business with Lexus M again due to this experience. 4. Oct 4, took vehicle to Lexus B to address dash squeaks and rattles. Inspection performed. I was informed that one air vent was "broken," service tech recommended replacing both (parts ordered) and suggested that when the parts were in they would conduct their own "in house" repairs for the dash problems using a system that they had developed over the winter of 03-04 to deal with all the problems that new RX330 owners were experiencing. Also noted the ticking sound from the lifters - was told that a TSB was coming out but that service could not be performed until TSB received. No charge. 5. Oct 18, vehicle returned to Lexus B for replacement of vents and other "fixes." No improvement following service. No TSB yet on the "ticking" sound. No charge. 6. Nov. 4, vehicle returned to Lexus B for first oil change. Requested that squeak and rattle issues be addressed again. Also began experiencing wind noise from driver side window at high speeds (e.g., excess of 70 mph) during cross wind conditions. Additional repair attempted by Lexus B with no success. No charge. 7. Dec. 17, vehicle returned to Lexus B to address first recall notice regarding tail light wiring. Repair completed. No charge. 8. March 7, 2005, vehicle returned to Lexus B to repair failure of driver side window opener. Problem fixed. No charge. 9. March 17, 2005, vehicle returned to Lexus B with instructions to keep vehicle until squeaks and rattles and wind noise addressed. Car remained at dealership for 5 days. Returned with A-pillar popping noises reduced but not eliminated. Rattling in area around glove box not fixed. Wind noise not fixed. No charge. 10. April 13, 2005, second oil change and TSB "repairs" to window trim and glove box. Rattling in area around glove box not fixed. Wind noise not fixed. 11. May 15, 2005, received notice from Lexus regarding brake booster voluntary replacement option. Now my wife is afraid of the vehicle... Needless to say, I'm a little disappointed with this car. I will say that Bergstrom Lexus has been excellent to deal with. I think they are trying anything they can think of to help. The quality control, fit and finish, and body integrity issues with this vehicle are not what I expected from Lexus (or from any manufacturer who charges what we paid for this vehicle).
  21. 1 point
    We bought an '04 RX330 FWD 18" wheels, black on tan interior w/birds eye wood trim. We bought it in feb'05 w/17K on it and now have 25k. 1. Dash rattle. (Full TSB performed were they take off the dash and insulate the mounting clips. solved the problem) 2. Both visors replaced due to defect in flip up motion of vanity mirror. 3. Rubber exhaust hanger broken. (replaced by dealer) 4. Brake recall performed (switch changed by dealer) 5. Cup holder cover mechanism was sticking. (unstuck by dealer) 6. Injector ticking (yet to be serviced) 7. Hesitation (yet to be serviced) 8. Passenger side wind noise i think (yet to be serviced). All service and work done at Lexus of Bossier City LA
  22. 1 point
    I have the same problem with both of my RX300s. It seems like the idle is running low when the car is sitting in drive. When I put it in park, the idle goes up slightly and the vibration noise goes away. I'm sure there is a way to modify the car to fix the problem.
  23. 1 point
    Okay, got my manual with me...Before you check any fuse, turn your key to "accessories" position or "on" position, do not start the engine. See if your lighter works. The pressure created from the heated coil is what makes the lighter pops out. If the light doesn't work, it obviously won't create any presure so it won't pop out. The fuse you are looking for is fuse #5, rated at 15 amp. This is located in the Driver's side kick panel. Exit the car, duck under the steering wheel and look up just above the gas pedal. You should see a fuse box. It is covered with a plastic cover. This is driver's side kick panel. You are looking for FUSE #5
  24. 1 point
    01RX300 with 60K on it. Only when idle at D shiift, it sounds like subwoofer is working....even when I shut off fan/AC, Music. I do not know if it is the same as yours. Any idea? or easy fix? Or it could be included in the extended warranty? Any thanks!!! :cries:
  25. 1 point
    I have a 2001 RX 300 with a noisy exhaust. The dealer told me the noise was coming from a spring in the exhaust but they want $200 to fix it. I'm wondering if anyone else has had the same problem. The dealership is Larry Miller of Lindon, Ut. I am the second owner of the car. Car has 50,000 miles on it.



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