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Thanks for the comments, Amanda. Good news: My 2018 and 2020 RX 350s including the 2023s all use 4G (as stated on the window sticker) and will continue to do so for some time in the future. Lexus monitors a lot of your vehicle functions and keeps a status of your system. If the DCM Quits working, you got some real problem on your hands. I'll just bet you, if that happens Lexus will get in touch with you real quick via e-mail or phone, telling you to bring the vehicle in ASAP. That's what Lexus Enform is all about - keeping you on the road and out of the repair shop. If I could cut off the nav system, then when I say "Show Radar", I could not get the local radar map because Lexus would not know where I was. You pay for that functionality for the first 3 years cause it's built into the price. After a few years I would have to pay for a subscription and it's not cheap. Sure hope the guys at Lexus can help you out with your Radio Frequency problem. Les, 1st Class FCC License operator

Bone spurs. Can't say I like those.

I just put a hitch on my new 460 but the 5000 lb. hitch was enough for my needs, so that was easy and inexpensive. The wiring is already in place. I found this YouTube video which might help you. Good luck.

I also am looking into a capacitive touchscreen over the resistive one. Have you found anything? I found a sketch website that says their’s is capacitive but I keep getting the fake Tesla screens advertised to me otherwise…don’t want to remove my buttons, I just want a better touchscreen

I would drain it out first

I have 2021 4Runner nightshade limited edition 20x7 wheels on my GX470. They look amazing except they are slightly skinny given the stocker 245/60r20 tires that came on them. Now, it’s time to get new tires and I am hoping to get a little wider size. As such, I am looking at trying 255/60r20.. Is anybody running this size tire on a stock gx470? Any clearance issues? I know that the 7” rim size limits the width of the tire but have confirmed that the 255 is within the parameters.. Thanks!

FOB button works, drivers unlock button works but button on trunk does not work. IDEAS?

Thanks- I think I can handle a little error in MPH.

My first experience today. Called AAA for a Jump that didn't work. Needed to call a tow to Lexus dealership. Turns out the tow truck driver was more experienced and jumped the battery. He said with the Hybrids you have to have a Charger that is at 100% to work. He tested one he had at 50% and did not work. The one he had at 100% did the trick. The other trick he had was to push down on break and push in the start button and then immediately push down on the gas. Not happy this happened on a car with only 48K Miles but hopefully this info helps someone down the road. I was told to drive for at least a half hour and up hills to recharge the battery fully. Technology continues to make more work!

An auto shop can add a UV dye to your oil and then later check to see from where it is originating, especially if it is not obvious from the top or bottom of the engine..

Hi folks. Just got myself a new '23 ESh. My vent phone holder mount used in my late Toyota does not fit the lexus due to the vent flaps on the lexus being deeper. Here is what I used to use. I was hoping I could poll the community here to see what works for you? What phone holder do you use that works for you? Would appreciate a link if you can manage to find it. Thanks

I recently replaced my AC compressor with some help after the clutch went out on it.. At first my climate control was not coming on. I replaced the relay and the AC fuse num 2 i think in the passenger cabin and the climate control came back on. But when the AC is on the clutch does not seem to ever engage so i was unable to charge. I have pulled a vacuum and had i all ready to. I shouldn't be the relay unless i have 2 bad ones. I don't know if I have a wiring issue missed when reassembling? any suggestions?

Matinee

The 2014 and 2015 had suspension issues, and the 2016 had brake issues. The power top falls under the Body Hardware category. Every year from 2014 - 2017 shows that category as having much better than average reliability.

Trying to follow a friend's advice to "disable the ABS by yanking the 60A ABS fuse/fusible link in the engine-compartment fusebox", I promptly shattered it--because he nor I knew it comes bolted in--and from below. (Once again, thank you, engineers who don't work on what you design.) I posted this as a reply on another forum, but decided the info was rare enough on the web that it should be here as well. (The Lexus mechanic confirmed that a lot of the specifics were missing from his computerized shop manual.) Re: the pix 1. The engine-compartment fusebox is actually a "split box," an upper half snapped into 3 tabs on the lower half and bolted to the fender well with M6x1.0 bolts (10mm). The label inside the box cover identifies the ABS fuse as the one in the upper left. It's yellow. It is held in by two small bolts underneath. The box must be separated and the internal module holding the high-current fuses dropped out from below. 2. The internal module is snapped and held in place by three internal tabs. A reasonably sized flat-blade screwdriver is enough to release all the tabs (including the external ones). At least some of the connectors to the upper half might have to be disconnected to get enough slack to drop the module out and get access to the screws. (Several electrical diagrams I looked at indicated a 7.5A "ABS 3" fuse was located at the top of the 3-fuse column to the right of the main fuses. When the upper half is off, one can see there's no electrical connections to that area.) Incidentally, the upper-left shows what happens to a fragile 60A fusible link when attacked with pliers because one doesn't even suspect it might be bolted in. (I actually Dremeled it, thinking I could see how it was held in. The screws are through the sides of the conductor tabs, not into the body.) 3. The screws are revealed. They have 10mm heads. Probably want to torque them well if you haven't enjoyed the journey this far. Please don't drop either one of these. For heaven's sake, treat them as if your father were watching you handle them. 4. If activity has lifted the lower half of the fusebox, you may notice that the mounting hole to the front of the vehicle is impossible to align to bolt the box back onto the fender well. I found a "locator foot" molded into the bottom of the lower half of the fusebox and that it was outside of its locator hole, causing the entire box to stand about 1/2" too high. There just wasn't enough working room for me to "influence" the foot back into its hole. In the end, I had to remove the battery, and even then found the task difficult. Before I accidentally got it in, I was contemplating sawing it off... When the holes finally lined up, I immediately dropped one of the mounting bolts which wedged itself under the air filter so I had to go to town to get a replacement. Don't drop either of these either. This is tough enough without suffering your own carelessness.

When I went in for a replacement ABS fusible link, a most helpful Lexus mechanic volunteered the opinion that "a reluctor ring had come loose and was rotating freely" causing the computer to make bad ABS decisions based on bad information. He also confirmed the solution would be an axle replacement and it would be "pricey." (Currently looking for "How to Disable ABS (and return to the Uncomplicated 1950s)")

When it comes to ignition systems, Go OEM only...Or at least I would 😉

I want to get a backup camera that shows on the navigation screen. Does anyone know if there is a way to do that? 2007 SC430 Thanks Charley

I have ls430 2005. It’s tail lights are always on regardless the position of the light control (off or auto position). After I pressed tge lock button on the remote, the tail lights would turned off for one minute and they turned back on again. Does it happen to you? What could be the issue? Thanks

Back again with photos. Full disclosure, some pulleys and wiring brackets are removed in the photos, you do not need to remove anything that hasn't been mentioned, they're just taken off to have a better line-of-sight for the camera. Installation is the reverse of removal, and everything slides together fairly nicely. 1. You'll start by sliding the alternator onto the stud, letting it hang. Don't slide it back until you've plugged in the connector on the back and slid the rubber boot over top. Next, you can shift it back further and get your charging cable attached. There was not torque spec in the manual (that I could find) but good practice is to tighten the nut for the charging cable until you can't move the cable side to side. Slide the boot over top of the charging cable after it has been secured. If you were able to disconnect the wiring bracket on the alternator, reconnect it. If you cut the tape, peel off the old tape and wrap new tape around the mount and harness. Next, slide in your bottom alternator bolt and hinge your alternator side to side, lightly pushing on the bottom bolt to find the threads. Once you have both the nut and bolt lightly seated, you can torque them both to 29 ft-lbf. This is what you should look like at this step. 2. Re-install your power steering pump. The pump will slide straight back, if you meet resistance, double check that your reservoir isn't caught on the cooling hoses attached to the coolant reservoir, and turn the body of the pump on the stud to make sure the mount isn't colliding with the cylinder head. The bolt holes are a bit tricky to find, but for reference, the top hole of the two is directly beneath the widest portion of the valve cover, pictured here: The lower bolt is tucked a bit further and just slightly towards the rear of the vehicle. Here's a photo of the mounting holes on a spare cylinder head I have on the bench: Once all three fasteners are lightly seated on the power steering pump, go ahead and tighten them up. The torque spec is 29 ft-lbf for the two bolts, and 32 ft-lbf for the nut on the front. Go ahead and secure the three bolts holding your pump reservoir in as well. If you're reading this guide ahead of time, the bolt holes are marked with a red "X". Make sure you don't miss the one hiding underneath the coolant feed line. 3. Re-install your belt and cooling fan/ fan clutch. Attached is a photo of the belt routing (you should also have the same routing diagram attached to your hood). Torque spec for the fan clutch nuts is 16 ft-lbf. When you install your belt, make sure it is sitting in the grooves properly by hand. If it is misaligned, it can jump off when you start the engine and damage components. 4. Install your air ducting and vacuum/vent hoses, and reconnect your battery cable. You'll need to go through and re-set your clock, radio presets, and memory seats, but other than that, your job is (almost) done! 5. Check your charging system Your alternator is installed, but verify your system is working before setting off down the road. With the engine running, you should have about 14 DC volts. Double-checking this now is the best way to keep from immediately getting stranded with a dead battery, and while you're checking it, you can listen for any abnormal sounds from your engine. Torque values: Alternator mounting nut and bolt: 29 ft-lbf Power steering bolts: 29 ft-lbf Power steering nut: 32 ft-lbf Fan clutch nuts: 16 ft-lbf

2011 LX 570 I have leaks in the rear A/C lines and or rear evaporator. Expensive fix I have found an option to cap the rear lines. I don't live in the south so willing to try using just the front unit. To order the parts for the 2 lines I need the outside diameter of the 2 lines going to the rear. Anyone know what they are? Thanks!

Essentially, no, you should not waste your money, especially if you have a Japanese auto like Toyota/Lexus or Mazda. See: Should You Get an Extended Warranty for Your Car? - Consumer Reports

Because I shattered the 60A fuse trying to take it out in the first place, I opted to take a Dremel grinder to it, on a whim that the rumored "screw" was probably in the bottom center. I figured if I could free the case from the central screw I could pull it out and deal with the screw later. (Those who already know the answer will recognize the futility of this.) In the end, I reamed out the entire, empty center, and proceeded to saw the case in half, hoping the holding screw would be in one side or the other. (More head-shaking by those who've seen the fuse.) Nope, still held fast. I broke down and unbolted the fusebox from the fender well, removed the lid, and then unclipped the top half of the box from the bottom half. There's nowhere near enough slack in the wiring to flip the top over to be able to see the situation under the 60A fuse, so disconnecting enough connectors to get slack is a must. Even at that, I still cannot see the (may I say it please, "!Removed!!") screws (the Lexus mechanic said he thought it was an 8mm and a 10mm holding it in place). I met the mechanic when I went to the Lexus parts counter to order a new one. (The young attendant told me he googled to get the part number first so he could enter that into his parts catalog :^) ). When you see it (attached), you too will know why it Sucks So Bad. Toyota calls it a Fusible Link: Toyota (90982-08202). If anyone ever figures out how to get to the bolts/screws/whatever, please contact me, no matter how many years in the future it is: I'll still be trying to figure it out...

Oh Yeah, ONE thing I learned was that (as a passenger) I couldn't set many desired characteristics unless the car was stationary. 😒 Stuff like sensitivity of automatic wiper and headlight controls, and automatic brightness of the instruments and media screen...