GoldenStateSilverSport

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GoldenStateSilverSport last won the day on January 6 2016

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About GoldenStateSilverSport

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  • Lexus Model
    2001 RX300 Silversport / 2007 GS350

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  1. Hey Gang - It's been awhile since I've visited this thread. Glad to see that this has helped soo many people!! For those who plan on going through with this DIY fix, I'd like to re-iterate the screws are tough to take out so be prepared with the proper tools to remove them. Also glad to see one of the posters mentioned it possible to stop by a home depot and pick up some extra replacement screws for a few dollars! "As stated by ml30306 in post# 170, if you want to replace the 3 screws for the throttle unit for the RX300, get 2 units with bolt size M6 with 1" pitch and length of 60mm and another one with size M6 and length of 28 mm also with 1" pitch. Diameter of the screws is ~5mm."
  2. Guys- It's been awhile since i visited this forum, but wanted to say, I just performed this again yesterday! Car is working great - I can't believe my post on this was 6 years ago!! Glad to see it can help soo many people. As usual, it was tough getting the factory screws out but that's where the grip locking pliers can help!! Cheers, Gang!!
  3. Hello Everyone, I know IACV has been a huge topic on the forum and I have found various pictures in the RX forum and ES forum on the idle air control valve (IACV) or as others call it the idle speed control valve (ISC). However, I have not found a "step by step" posting to date which definitively shows how to clean this thing so that my car stops giving me idling problems. Symptoms I have had included: - low and rough idling that would cause the car engine to start shaking after starting the car - this eventually got worse to the point that when I start my car, it would not idle unless I gave it gas - idling problems for me tended to occur more often after my engine was warm or had been sitting in the sun I hope these series of postings help you fellow LOC members out there. You've certainly helped me in the past so here's my two cents at this common problem. Additionally, the instructions I give are the way in which I have cleaned it myself. As you go about and attempt this, you may find better ways to do so. Please add and refine my instructions/terminology as needed. I am not a professional. I've only changed my oil, air filters, and conducted minor maintenance previously. The bottom line is that if you have the right tools, you should be able to do this. This discovery/ cleaning took me about 2 hours to do cause I ran into problems and there were major steps left out in previous postings that I've encountered read. The next time I do this, I believe I can get this done in about an hour or less. Tools Needed: 1) Tightly fitting Philips Screw Driver 2) Carb cleaner that is O2 sensor safe (I've seen CRC. I used Valvoline Carb Cleaner) 3) Locking Grip Pliers (definitely helped me remove the factory tight screws) 4) Small brush for cleaning 5) Towels for cleaning 6) Pliers (help removed brackets holding the hoses) 7) Latex gloves helps with limit the messiness. * I used the same gasket and did not replace it. No problems found. 1) Remove the hose that comes from the engine/motor that connects to the air intake hoses.( Hose is below in red – we'll refer to this as Hose A) When you pull back the rubber hose covering, you will see that a metal bracket is holding the hose pretty tightly in place. Use the pliers to clasps the two metal pieces together to loosen the bracket and pull the hose loose. You can also do this by hand if it's easier for you. 2) Upon removing the hose, you will want to remove the two air intake hoses. Loosen the three screws above in green and remove the hose. Below is a picture of the intake hoses removed. 3)After removing the intake hoses, I opened the lid to the air filter and moved this to the side of the car to create more working room. I believe there are two clips on the right holding the lid in place. Just pop the two clips and move the cover to the side. I also took out the air filter and temporarily moved this to the side. 4)After removing the intake hose, the throttle body/IACV/black electric coil is revealed. At this point, I removed the black electric wire from the black coil. Once the electric wire is removed you can remove the black coil from the IACV by removing the two screws. Note, the screws are factory tight so use a tight fitting screw driver to remove the screws. One of my screws was partially stripped from the dealership's work, so I had to resort to my locking grip pliers which helped out tremendously. After removing the two screws, the black electric piece pops right off. When the black electrical coil is removed from the IACV, it exposes a small pencil sized metal stud. You will also notice a washer that sits on this stud. Don't lose this washer. Take it and put it aside so it doesn't fall off when you continue on in the next steps. 5)Additionally, I removed the hose coming out of the IACV. We'll call this Hose B. This hose can be removed in the same manner by clamping the bracket and pulling the hose out. You will see that the hose is removed below. Below are pictures of before and after. 6)Here is where the fun begins. I initially attempted to remove the four screws attached to the IACV at this point, but found that after an hour, this would be nearly impossible to remove considering the location of the screws were in an extremely tight spot. The only way I would be able to remove the IACV is to remove right throttle body. Not as tough as it sounds. Three screws need to be removed to accomplish this. Again, be careful when removing the screws. Also you will see I removed another electric plug and I also cut a tie wrap. Once you complete these steps, the throttle body/ IACV comes out pretty easily. Note when you remove the throttle body, there will be one LAST hose connected to the IACV. Be careful when you remove this hose as radiator fluid may spill. Some of my fluid spilled out so I just refilled my coolant after I was done. 7)Below is a picture of the bottom view of the IACV. You now can EASILY remove the four screws connecting the IACV to the throttle body . In the picture below, I have already removed one of the screws. Once the four screws are removed the IACV and throttle body separate. Now you can clean both of them with your carb cleaner, brush, towels, cotton swabs etc…. Picture here is before I the cleaning with all the muck inside Pictures after I cleaned the IACV and throttle body This last picture is the post throttle body cleaning 8) Once you are done cleaning, just put back the throttle body/iacv the same way you took it off, and put everything back in reverse order. Ensure the gasket is in place. Also, ensure you put the washer back on the electric coil. Make sure you place hose A & B back and ensure the electric plugs are back in their original position. Once these things are in place, then it's all about putting the air filter/hoses back and you are good to go. If you have lost any coolant, make sure you refill it to a safe level. After completing this cleaning, my car starts up without any problem and idles as if I just purchased the car brand new. Replacing this at a dealership would have costed me $300-400 easily. Let me know if you have any questions. Cheers (Also, I tried to post these as separate replys, but the software combined all my replies into a single reply and did not keep them separated) *Edited the posting to have the pictures follow step by step in sequential order*
  4. Hello Everyone, I know IACV has been a huge topic on the forum and I have found various pictures in the RX forum and ES forum on the idle air control valve (IACV) or as others call it the idle speed control valve (ISC). However, I have not found a "step by step" posting to date which definitively shows how to clean this thing so that my car stops giving me idling problems. Symptoms I have had included: - low and rough idling that would cause the car engine to start shaking after starting the car - this eventually got worse to the point that when I start my car, it would not idle unless I gave it gas - idling problems for me tended to occur more often after my engine was warm or had been sitting in the sun I hope these series of postings help you fellow LOC members out there. You've certainly helped me in the past so here's my two cents at this common problem. Additionally, the instructions I give are the way in which I have cleaned it myself. As you go about and attempt this, you may find better ways to do so. Please add and refine my instructions/terminology as needed. I am not a professional. I've only changed my oil, air filters, and conducted minor maintenance previously. The bottom line is that if you have the right tools, you should be able to do this. This discovery/ cleaning took me about 2 hours to do cause I ran into problems and there were major steps left out in previous postings that I've encountered read. The next time I do this, I believe I can get this done in about an hour or less. Tools Needed: 1) Tightly fitting Philips Screw Driver 2) Carb cleaner that is O2 sensor safe (I've seen CRC. I used Valvoline Carb Cleaner) 3) Locking Grip Pliers (definitely helped me remove the factory tight screws) 4) Small brush for cleaning 5) Towels for cleaning 6) Pliers (help removed brackets holding the hoses) 7) Latex gloves helps with limit the messiness. * I used the same gasket and did not replace it. No problems found. 1) Remove the hose that comes from the engine/motor that connects to the air intake hoses.( Hose is below in red – we'll refer to this as Hose A) When you pull back the rubber hose covering, you will see that a metal bracket is holding the hose pretty tightly in place. Use the pliers to clasps the two metal pieces together to loosen the bracket and pull the hose loose. You can also do this by hand if it's easier for you. 2) Upon removing the hose, you will want to remove the two air intake hoses. Loosen the three screws above in green and remove the hose. Below is a picture of the intake hoses removed. 3)After removing the intake hoses, I opened the lid to the air filter and moved this to the side of the car to create more working room. I believe there are two clips on the right holding the lid in place. Just pop the two clips and move the cover to the side. I also took out the air filter and temporarily moved this to the side. 4)After removing the intake hose, the throttle body/IACV/black electric coil is revealed. At this point, I removed the black electric wire from the black coil. Once the electric wire is removed you can remove the black coil from the IACV by removing the two screws. Note, the screws are factory tight so use a tight fitting screw driver to remove the screws. One of my screws was partially stripped from the dealership's work, so I had to resort to my locking grip pliers which helped out tremendously. After removing the two screws, the black electric piece pops right off. When the black electrical coil is removed from the IACV, it exposes a small pencil sized metal stud. You will also notice a washer that sits on this stud. Don't lose this washer. Take it and put it aside so it doesn't fall off when you continue on in the next steps. 5)Additionally, I removed the hose coming out of the IACV. We'll call this Hose B. This hose can be removed in the same manner by clamping the bracket and pulling the hose out. You will see that the hose is removed below. Below are pictures of before and after. 6)Here is where the fun begins. I initially attempted to remove the four screws attached to the IACV at this point, but found that after an hour, this would be nearly impossible to remove considering the location of the screws were in an extremely tight spot. The only way I would be able to remove the IACV is to remove right throttle body. Not as tough as it sounds. Three screws need to be removed to accomplish this. Again, be careful when removing the screws. Also you will see I removed another electric plug and I also cut a tie wrap. Once you complete these steps, the throttle body/ IACV comes out pretty easily. Note when you remove the throttle body, there will be one LAST hose connected to the IACV. Be careful when you remove this hose as radiator fluid may spill. Some of my fluid spilled out so I just refilled my coolant after I was done. 7)Below is a picture of the bottom view of the IACV. You now can EASILY remove the four screws connecting the IACV to the throttle body . In the picture below, I have already removed one of the screws. Once the four screws are removed the IACV and throttle body separate. Now you can clean both of them with your carb cleaner, brush, towels, cotton swabs etc…. Picture here is before I the cleaning with all the muck inside Pictures after I cleaned the IACV and throttle body This last picture is the post throttle body cleaning 8) Once you are done cleaning, just put back the throttle body/iacv the same way you took it off, and put everything back in reverse order. Ensure the gasket is in place. Also, ensure you put the washer back on the electric coil. Make sure you place hose A & B back and ensure the electric plugs are back in their original position. Once these things are in place, then it's all about putting the air filter/hoses back and you are good to go. If you have lost any coolant, make sure you refill it to a safe level. After completing this cleaning, my car starts up without any problem and idles as if I just purchased the car brand new. Replacing this at a dealership would have costed me $300-400 easily. Let me know if you have any questions. Cheers (Also, I tried to post these as separate replys, but the software combined all my replies into a single reply and did not keep them separated) *Edited the posting to have the pictures follow step by step in sequential order*
  5. ...but are extremly tight! I saw throttles , looks that are clean ! And I`m just wandering if I`m going in right way. What do You think about it ?

  6. ...there were no errors after I connected to OBD2 port. No indicators everything OK! But car will not start without acceleration pedal. Day before I`ve noticed while I was estanding on traffic lights that car was sometimes vibrating but very very gently and only if I was in DRIVE possition , just like the RPMs were a little bit below normal. Ive tried removed those 2 screws holding IACV...

  7. Hi I have 2001 Lexus RX300(europe)I`ve turned on my car - just like everyday, everything was okCar was working about 5 min, because I`ve just wanted to drive away from my garage. After 5min. I`ve turned off my car.I`ve cleaned garage and wanted to put RX back to garage. But I couldnt start it.. till the moment I`ve pushed acceleration pedal, then started immediately!!Could it be the IAC...

  8. Step By Step Instructions For Iacv(idle Air Control Valve)/isc/throttl

    I will say that this step by step was a clear and concise instruction. I worked at an electronics field engineer for a major government contractor and I created documents just like this... I made a lot of money doing so. If you were to do this for a living, you could make a killing.

    Thanks for savin...

  9. I agree..bear in mind i got the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S PLUS..they have a 45k mile warranty and were about 1k.
  10. how do you know when the brakes are gone? i suspect you'll hear a scratching/squeeling noise. I'm concerned cause i have 26k miles on my ride with the original brake pads..no issues so i hope it's not metal to metal yet...the brakes on my RX300 lasted till 60k!!..sounds like these GSes are not equipped with the same type of pads. =( Second question - do you have to complain to get the TSB for the dustless pads or will they just do it if you ask (even in my case with 26k miles?)
  11. Love the rubber all weather floor-mats. They are just great on my car. They protect the fabric mats and catch all the dirt and grime and all that good stuff. I live in Cali and don't really have to deal with snow, but I keep these in my car year round. Love it and don't regret it at all!
  12. Clarification - When you say lube the "Window Channel", what exact does that refer to? I tried to Google "Window Channel" and it appears that it's the "track" or railway" where the window slides along? (I think it's like rubber or felt on the RX)? So if I were to lube this piece, I'd roll my window all the way down, and sparingly apply this Sil-Glyde up and down the vertical "channel" on each side of the window?
  13. I greatly appreciate the feedback. I haven't previously thought about "bargaining" for tires though your suggestion makes sense in this economic climate. I want to streeeeeetch the life of my stock Yokos as much as I can, but I saw that the Michelin's at Costco have a sale for $70 off of 4 tires right now (which is OK - not great) Total cost for four tires runs to about $1100. In addition, the Bridgestones have a $100 off when you buy 4 as well- total is about $950. If you want to get down to comparing $/mile the Bridgestones slightly edge out the Michelins 2.3cents/mile to 2.4cents/mile which is pretty negligible. I'm now intrigued by your suggestion of bargaining with certain dealers. I wonder if I could get a better deal elsewhere...
  14. I'm having trouble deciding between the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Plus tires which have a 45k warranty or the Bridgestone Potenza RE960A/S Pole Position tires - both are suppose to be very good. The Potenzas are at the top of the list with respect to tire rack reviews, however the Pilot Plus tires just came out and are suppose to be an improvement. Decisions...decisions...I need someone to sway me one way other another =P Thoughts?
  15. I'm having trouble deciding between the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Plus tires which have a 45k warranty or the Bridgestone Potenza RE960A/S Pole Position tires - both are suppose to be very good. The Potenzas are at the top of the list with respect to tire rack reviews, however the Pilot Plus tires just came out and are suppose to be an improvement. Decisions...decisions...I need someone to sway me one way other another =P Thoughts?