Sadistic

A supercharger kit will come with everything you need for direct replacement of parts and operation. Any other mods you add on your own are your own personal preference and the Supercharger kit will not require them. Exhaust and Intake are good when you have a supercharger to open up more power, but aren't required. Same goes with an Aftercooler. As for suspension, again that's just personal preference. Since you have a '93 I can garuntee that your shocks/springs are worn and not as effective as they were when they were brand new. Replacing them with OE parts will make a difference. Most people that get into boosting do basic upgrades to all major components. Rotor replacement for more stopping power, along with pads and lines (Power Slot/Stop, Any pad, Earls) Higher flow intake system. (BFI, K&N, Injen, Jim Wolf) Higher flow exhaust system, optionally with headers (Xerd, Blitz, GReddy, Borla, RMM, among others) Spring and shock replacement with aftermarket performance models (Eibach, Tein, Tokico, Koni, H&R among others) plug wire/spark plug/cap replacement (MSD, Nology, NGK, Bosch, many others) fuel filter replacement and other basic tune up essentials (Bosch and other OEM replacements) Sometimes a clutch if that's possible, with yours I would maybe do a tranny fluid change if it hasn't been done in awhile. And the same goes with your rear end. (Redline, Royal Purple, Mobil 1, Amsoil, BG, if they make an ATF) Basically it's the little things here and there. Before you install the supercharger make sure and get a compression/leak down test done so you're positive that your engine has no problems before you install it. That is the biggest mistake you can make is installing a power adder on an engine that has problems to begin with.

Fluidyne does make one but they aren't cheap JP is right on the money there. Aftermarket replacement radiators aren't bad. I ran one in my Eclipse until I got a Fluidyne and I never had a problem with it.

Programming the seats and everything is easy. On your drivers side door up by the dash you have three buttons 2, 1, and Set Put the seat, side mirrors and steering wheel where you want them, Hold down Set and press 1 or 2. Then do the same for the other. When you want to change from one setting to the other, hold down either 1 or 2 until everything is done moving. Right now I have "driving" position, and "sitting in parking lot waiting for woman to get out" position haha

You can say that again. Last night I finally programmed my seat/mirror/steering buttons and played with them for like 30 minutes. The car is so fun, I couldn't imagine owning anything else. The way it sounds, drives, rides, shifts, looks, feels is truely amazing. I would never have any doubt about buying another lexus product after owning this car.

Actually, that is a great idea if you can put together step by step photos, AJ this would be a great thing to do for those that do have digital cams and would like to do it. When they do something, take step by step photos, and put together a a do-it-yourself repair guide.

From what I deal with, they all list the Pistons for the GTE, which since the block is the same from what I undersand, they SHOULD still work.. someone correct me if I'm wrong on that.. Not sure about head clerances though.. Weisco 8.25:1 Compressin CP Forged 8.5:1 Compression JE/SRP 8.5:1 Compression That's what I have listed without digging too deep.

That's actually what makes the BFI the perfect upgrade for "the time being" if you're planning on going boosted. The intake costs practically nothing to make. And when you do go with a turbo you could still favricate your BFI to fit with your turbo setup. You might have to change the angel in which the pipe goes into the box, (or remove the box copmletely and build your own) but there's no harm in doing it now, and seeing what you can do with it later. Any turbo kit you get will come with an intake, same with a swap. So there is no way you would be losing anything later on if you did the BFI now, except time.

Yeah, but short ram intakes add that groovy sound, and the nifty looking pipe. B) And that would be about it.

Make sure you get a stock or overdrive crank pulley in your set, If you run an underdrive it's goodbye headlights everytime your system hits. And I don't mean that as a joke. It can get pretty bad, and murder your battery. Underdrive pulleys are a great way to free up hp. I've seen some impressive numbers from some, and not so from others. I think a lot of it has to do in the application. I've never seen a set on an SC, so if you do get them, make sure and let me know, I'm trying to build some what of a database for SC parts and power packages.

Well there ya go. It has the AJ mark of approval, everyone should own one now ;)

Most aftermarket companies make their filter elements as universal, so you can really get any one you want. I ran an HKS for about a year and a half. Not a bad filter, and it doesn't come apart like most people say. But, it does get dirty in about 4 hours. And the filter replacement is so expensive. As stupid as this sounds, the best air filter that I've seen is RS Akimoto. It's a K&N filter with a small opening at the top of the cone with another inverted filter. So instead of one big filter surface, you get 2. I'll post a pic. But, I prefer K&N filters, you get more power from them. All the fancy filters are mostly for looks.

I've used 0-30, that stuff is like water when hot. If you have an oil leak, just put some zero weight in there man, you'll find it in about 10 minutes. 15-50 isn't a bad oil weight, 5-30 is good, 0-30 is good. As long as you're not chucking in straight 50 weight, I think you'll be fine.

Most people that run superchargers end up putting nitrous on their cars anyways, since superchargers have a tendency to die out at higher rpm's. Of course this is on Hondas/Acuras. I'm not sure how the 2J or 1U would take to supercharging. Probably a lot like the Z33, or the Maxima, which I've heard is a great engine when blown. I'm sure the 1U is a great motor to supercharge. The 2J would probably work out also, but that motor just screams turbo. With the right turbo set up, as AJ said you can get boost at idle if you really wanted. It wouldn't hold until redline, but there's always a good mixture to be found. A turbo setup that usually begins to spool around 2-2,500 rpms is usually good until about 7,500 at full boost. All depends on the angle of the clip and the port job. There are tons of tricks you can do to coax a turbo into spooling faster and along with that comes a lower efficiency range, which is alright. It's all in how you drive the car, and what you want.

Lextech is right on that, after a long period of time the paint is going to have faded. One thing we've done in the past (and i'm not saying this will work for you or implying that you should try it.) but we've added a little extra flex addative and that will change the hue of the paint little by little. And actually tried to match faded paint, it turned out better than it would've been painted with a straight mixture.

My favorite trick of their's is "let me go ask my boss about that." All salesmen know the lowest price they can get away with, and always know how much they're going to make at all times. I went with my sister to go buy a '97 Talon TSI, and got a really great price on it. She walked in and you could tell that the guy knew that he was going to be able to milk her for every penny until he walked outside and I had the hood open. He was completely speachless as I went over the car. "This has wear, this is going out, this will need to be replaced." I've been around DSMs for quite a long time, and knew exactly what to look for. I got the car down far lower than their asking price and out the door. He wasn't going to budge on the price. I made my offer, he went to go "check" with his boss, and when he got back I had the cash sitting on the table with the car key sitting on top of it. You control if you buy the car or not. And you are in charge, the biggest mistake you can make is acting like you want the car. Once they know you want the car, they know that they can be more strict on the price. If you act as if, the car is "alright," and it would be convient for you to drive it home, but you could really go for another one you saw, that's when they want your business.

You know where these might actually helpful? On the VVT cars. If the spacer was big enough, that would maximize the amount of air ready in the manifold to be forced in, I could see it adding a few extra horses there when VVT kicked over to the bigger lobe. The more air packed into the manifold the more air that's going to get into the head.

Of course not, that's just the way some people like it. I'm sure one of the cars you're talking about is the Gold-ish one. That has air ride on it. I've seen a few pictures with the Vertex kit and the cars are scrapping the ground. No body kit requires you to lower your car at all, I just can't garuntee it will look the best sitting at stock ride height. Most body kits look good with an agressive 1 1/2" lower job.

Score one for the parts guy. Sparco NT's About $200-240 depending on the width in 17's. I don't have a weight, but they list them as Lightweight, so somewhere under 20lbs I'd say. Here's a link: http://www.crimson-inc.co.jp/sparco/nt-r.html And yes they are available in the US.

If there was an intake, what color pipe would you want? Polished or powder coated? Anything else you guys would be interested in? Exhaust? I already know an affordable Turbo Header is something that's wanted, and it's being looked into. C'mon guys, here's your chance to get something developed you've always wanted, I need suggestions if I'm going to do this.

Alright, from what I've heard higher wattage bulbs CAN melt your harness, I actually have never seen this. Also people have said that they make your headlights yellow faster, This I have seen, but couldn't tell you for sure if it was from the bulbs or not. Silverstar's are nice, but if they aren't higher wattage, they aren't brighter. If you want true higher wattage bulbs, just replace the wires on your harness with bigger gauge wires. That would be the best, and safest way to go out it. www.clearcorners.com has a big thing with links about different headlights and bulbs, I'd read that if you haven't already. It's pretty informative.

KLZE engines huh? I have an MX-6 I should give it a shot. 8 hp for $100 bucks seems a little unrealistic though. I wouldn't be surprised if it's more like 2 hp.

Personally, I trust zero of the places you listed. They will hire any idiot with a screwdriver. I suggest finding a specialty shop, or learning how to do it yourself. I hate running wires more than anything on a car, but I'd rather slave for hours running wires than trust my car in the back of Best Buy, Circuit City, or H.H.

You're right JR, sorry about that. It is always the longest line first.

On the subject of wheels, I've seen Oz wheels that were made for Lexus cars around somewhere. They are pretty hot I think, really heavy though. But you can get those in 17's, and they look sort of close to stock.

This is ususally how it is, but I always start with the shortest brake line and pump the brakes first, then open the bleeder, down the pedal, close bleeder. When I bought my SC there were a ton of air in the lines, and I couldn't get all of it out until I pumped the brakes first. Just thought I would mention that.