Sadistic

Man, you got black interior too? I have to swap now..

Here in Wisconsin we have the same laws, and I've gone round and round with the police and still haven't gotten a ticket yet. *knock on wood* The last cop that told me I needed my front plate, I told him the car didn't come with a plate holder, and they were outrageous from Lexus, when he went and bought me one, I would put the plate on. He didn't say anything else after that. So I think I'm lucky in that aspect.

By law, unless it's opinion I can't tell you how Nitrous is going to react with your vehicle. Since I've never been around a 1U with No2 I can't answer that question. What I can tell you is ZEX makes extremely good quality nitrous systems, and I would probably go with all ZEX products if you're going to use one. I've seen many nitrous systems on many cars, and I've always been extremely fond of the ZEX systems. Other systems are very good, NX, Holley, I've just always liked the ZEX.. As for bottle size, I would still recommend getting a 10lb bottle. The price difference on bottles tends to be as such.. (just for refence not actual prices) 1 lb $50 3 lb $70 10lb $110 15lb $220 10 lb bottles hold more than the smaller, and for the price you don't have to fill as much. Of course you're only saving filling prices, not actual price on the gas. Since whatever you use, you need to replace. As for Nitrous ON any car, if the kit is installed properly, and your engine is in *top notch* shape, you SHOULD in theory have no problems.. 47% of motor problems with Nitrous are from the Install job. 47% are from user error. And about 6% would be from part failure. I've actively been around probably 200 cars with nitrous, and seen *1* destroyed from the Nitrous, but that was due to a weak motor. Also 93 Octane will be plenty for a nitrous kit. Just remember, if you're going to run nitrous, get the entire kit, don't piece anything together. There is certain saftey equipment that MUST be installed when doing this, that take away the chance of user error. And unless you've installed a nitrous kit before, I don't suggest buying a used one.

I've seen a few Supra tail conversions that didn't look TOO bad, the problem is for a few years there, EVERYONE had to have Supra tails, it went from BMW, to Supra, to S2000, then to R33-34 tails. The stock tails on the SC are perfect IMO, and I wouldn't even think twice about swapping them.

I've driven a few cars with vinyl wrapped interior.. It just seemed really weird to me. Vinyl is great for dash parts, or door panels, just not for seats imo. It felt like I was riding around in an '88 Iroc Z, that wasn't what I figured it would be like.. And those Si seats definetly look like 5th gen seats, I haven't actually looked that closely at an '99-00 Si lately, but I could've sworn they had different head rests.

I have a '93 too, no noise.

Yeah, I'm with UCF, that takes all the imagination away from the lines of the car with that mess. Doing a two tone paint job isn't all that bad of an idea, but it has to be done with some taste.

That royal Saphire blue could've come on the SC in '97-98 but could've been an extra cost option color that wasn't advertised. I was told years ago that the MKIV and JZZ rolled of the same assembly line, if this is true, it is more than likely their color options would nearly be the same. Other than the 2 Saphires in the pics here, I have never seen a blue SC. Even that Dolphin silver/blue thing.. Never in my life.. Dark blue I've seen on GS' but never an SC. I don't know if this could be something, but did colors ever vary between the 300 and 400? Maybe he saw a 400 and couldn't tell the difference. I really don't know.. I'm not an OEM buff about stuff like this..

wb AWJ, I'm sick as hell too. I don't know what's going on with me. Anyways, here in Wisconsin legal is 35% on the rear 50% on the sides. Anything darker can warrant you a $127 ticket. Second offense is more, with points off your license. I got away with 3 tickets before they finally started taking points off my license before. At that point, I figured it was time to take the tint off. At 25% I really don't think anyone's going to complain. If they do throw a fit, I'll just have to take it off and do it legal.

From the looks of it, the kit doesn't look too bad. And from what I understand motor and tranny wise, they are identical. (someone correct me if I'm wrong) The only thing that kit doesn't include is an intercooler. And a Supra intercooler kit, won't fit right. So what you would have to do, is run the Supra turbo kit, and buy an SC300 intercooler kit when you're ready for that. Other than that, the kit doesn't look too bad at all.. Also remember, that if you want to play with the kit at all, you're going to need to upgrade your fuel system, and buy a piggy back or ECU to tune the thing. In no situation would I ever install a turbo kit on a car without upgrading the stock fuel system or having some sort of means to tune the car. That is asking for trouble in my opinion.

The alignment on mine was way out in the back when I got it and there wasn't any shaking. There was some massive pulling, but that's due to the worn tires being on the front. Since I didn't want to mess with it before Winter, I just stuffed them on the back and the brand new tires on the front. Got the alignment done, and all's well. The back tires don't shake, don't pull (until you hit about 75 mph but that mostly has to do with the ruts in the road and the tires being so wide.) Also another thing that will completely destroy your tires is not rotating them. I've seen tires chewed up in 15k miles. Front tires toast, back tires perfect. But, if it's uneven wear, it's definetly due to the alignment because of mis adjustment, non adjustment or bent suspension.

Hey guys! Merry X-mas to everyone. I hope everyone had a enjoyable day. I know I did.. Wisconsin.. 43 degrees, Christmas, No snow, which means I got to drive the car all day. Very happy about that. I was going to wait until spring to get Tint, since I figured the car would already be put away for the winter, but with the mild weather we're having, I might try and head up next week and do 20% all the way around. I've gotten so many tickets in the past for window tint on my other cars, nothing too agressive for me. You guys with tint, what do you guys have?

An alignment will fix your problem if it isn't a defect with the suspension. Also, you're going to need new tires. Because once a wear pattern starts in a tire, i will never end. The tires will continue to wear that way forever. So I would suggest if the inside edge of your tire is worn down, just replace the two tires. Put the new ones on the front, and rotate the fronts to the rear. (If this is possible) The SC's are considered a "difficult alignment." But, only because they over so much adjustment from the factory, without the help of a cam kit, or shims.

Tire repair foam is a joke, and does nothing but destroy your tire. You're better off with a replacement wheel made of plywood. Gunk is good in a pinch, but even in that cirumsance I would never use it. Road Side Assistance is far better. And we actually weighed sound deadening scrapings out of a MKIII Supra, it weighed about 1 1/2 lbs. And took about a good solid 6 hours to scrap all that crap out. Not worth it in my opinion. But if you wanted it to sound like you were driving around in a tin can, go for it. There are so many things you could do if you really wanted to save weight, from replacing parts with cheap thin metal, or Carbon fiber, to using titanium parts, making an aluminum dash, taking out the stereo, seats, headliner, air conditioning, flywheel, bumpers, clips, seat belts, fuel tank, suspension, brakes, wheels, tires, steering wheel, air bags, door panels, all interior panels, lighter battery. A ton of things.. Just have to sit down and weigh everything and decide if it's "crucial" to your driving characteristics. I think this is a really good idea though. Gathering the weight of objects for those that want to lose a few pounds here and there. Personally, I bought a Lexus because I wanted a Lexus.

Water pump..

I don't know if you have the torque specs yet or not, I hope this helps..

Sounds great, I should go and check that out tonight, and give it a whirl tomorrow. Almost time to put the SC up for the winter and tear into her. So, if this works well, it will make cleaning under the hood easy. Plus I need to clean and condition the leather before winter so it doesn't die sitting there.

Many companies make grill inserts, and almost all of them offer universal kits for the cars they don't specifically make. There's a company called Grillcraft that was very big in the late 90's early 00' that did a huge volume of grill kits for cars. I don't think they have an SC application so I would suggest looking into a universal kit. To give you something to look at, here's a link: http://www.andysautosport.com/lexus/92_00s...c300grills.html basically it comes in a sheet, you cut it to a size, and attach it by screws, staples, tape, clips, anything you can find on the back of your bumper. Good luck, and I hope that helps. EDIT: Another thing we've done, is went to home depot and bought Screen for Screen doors, cut that and drilled it in. That was a cover for a intercooler though. So you have many options.

I would say find yourself some wiring diagrams of both gauge cluthers, and find out what's different and go from there. I personally have never heard anyone doing this swap. But, there's always a way to do anything.

Yup Bandit is right. The Eibach Pro Kit is the best way to lower your car if you only want an inch drop. The springs are reletively inexpensive, and easy to install if you chose to do it yourself. Springs will run you between 200-300 dollars depending on where you purchase them. The springs will lower the car a certain amount and within given time they will settle to it's final ride height, which should be exactly what you want.

I think the problem is with your torque converter being locked up. What it's doing is the car is wanting to shift, but the transmission won't let it do that, so the car lurches forward fighting the torque. I dont' think I explained it right, but I know that sounds like the problem. What I would do is take it to a shop that specializes in automatics, usually there's one around that you can take it to. They'll be able to tell you rather quickly if that's the problem or not. But I definetly do think that the problem is with the transmission it's self. I wish I could give you more info.. Sorry, Hope the little info that I did give helps. I'm sure if someone else has something else to add they will.

Any shock in any mass manufactured car is going to eventually wear out due to the use of a spring that doesn't allow the shock full movement. Shocks have a target zone of where they move, if they can't make the entire stroke after enough time they will die out. I can't say how long it will happen, and I'm sure the aggressiveness of the drop will alter the time frame. If he doesn't mind replacing shocks after awhile, springs will do just fine. But, I'm with Southern on this one, I also would suggest changing out the shocks along with the springs. I think he might actually enjoy the bennefit of having some Koni/Tokico shocks under him. They can really turn the car into a dream.

I would say the best bet is to call around to your local Radiator shops, or places that do the work. Any OE replacement radiator is going to do fine, or they wouldn't sell them. It's not going to make your car overheat within a day, or explode. If it comes with a warranty, you can expect it to last atleast that long. For $200 though, I wouldn't expect much. I've seen OE's that are much more than that. All depends on the size/design. Fluidyne's are the most expensive in the world, around $400 is about dead on, but for what it does, and the price. You can't get better than that, unless you step up to AJ's dream woman of a Radiator ;) haha

Well, it will obviously not be the next Civic, and I hope it never is. I think that's one of the greatest parts about the SC, there aren't enough of them around. That's also why it wouldn't be a good idea to cater to just them. I honestly think going all Toyota, all Honda, all Nissan is a very workable venture though. There are plenty of shops that cater only to those, and do fairly well. Honestly, I think the largest shops only cater to certain makes. Selling cars is harder though. The chance of getting repeat customers is small. I'm sure most would be happy to pass your name along, but you can only sell so many cars to so many people. It would take a lot of time and advertising to get yourself in a position that the business could hold it's own. As a business owner I know this just as well as ony other would. You could sell toilet seats and make a lot of money, advertising and besting your competition with good customer service is what makes a business. As long as you can do that, I see no problem in selling all Lexus cars, or all Toyota vehicles.

SC's are great cars, but it's extremely limited in it's market right now. That may change if enough of us get our projects finish and start doing things with them. The more known SC drivers get, the more known their car does. Everyone should be on the look out Fast and the Furious 3 Extra calls and we'll train 100 of us over there (lol) That would make the SC the next Civic. Other than that, someone mentioned Sport Compact Car is doing a project car, that will get some noteriety. If I were you, I would specialize in all toyotas, that seems to be a great avenue to venture down. That's what I'm "sorta" doing with mine. Toyota drivers are loyal, and look for places that feel the same way. Owning a Toyota and diving into the aftermarket scene is like being in a giant car club. There is always so much appreciation between Toyota owners.