Sadistic

My conversion should cost around 5K. Give or take 500 bucks for little extras.

If an o2 sensor malfunctions, you would think it would throw a hard code. Most every emissions part will throw some sort of hard code that won't go away. In case you can't find it, here's a diagram.. EGR valve is E2

On the subject of ADR rims. I've dealt with them quite a bit, and if they are a 1 piece wheel they aren't made in Japan. They're made in Korea. As for the tires, I have no idea.. They're cheap for a reason. And with 245's in the front, your tires are going to pull you all over the road into the road grooves, so be prepared for that. I got a flat on one of my 245/45's and switched to 225/35's in the front.. Even with the ridiculously small sidewall, the tires still are more driveable just because of the fact I feel that I'm not having to fight the imperfections in the road from heavy traffic. And in my experience, it isn't the size of the wheel that is going to ruin your ride quality, it's the size of the tire.. If you put a 255/45/20 on your car, it's going to have quite a bit of absorbtion due to the sidewall of the tire. That's where all your quality comes from, that and the suspension.

Yeah, I'd say the same.. To my knowledge Blitz doesn't make a kit for the SC. That definitely is a Blitz rear end though. I would say it's a custom job. The fenders could be off of another kit, like the BN Sport kit.. I'm not really sure on this one.

On a little stage with the rest of the tailights..

SPORT, I totally agree that the K&N isn't great.. *BUT* it would be considered a modification from stock, so that's why I suggested it ;) lol I'd actually like to see a pic of your BFI if you have one, SPORT.

If you want the drop filter, go to Autozone, All-Car, Advanced Auto, Napa, Bumper to Bumper All these places carry it.

This should be right... Center Support Center Bearing Rear -OEM# 3723024090 - $135.23 Center Support Replace Center Bearing Rear -Skill B- -Warranty 1.8hrs- -Book 2.5hrs- Includes: R&R Driveshaft.

SPORT, I think your exhaust will get louder than it is. Mufflers definitely have a break in period where they will begin to get louder. And the sound will change through the RPM band. Personally, if your exhaust sounds anything remotely like that, definitely a good purchase. That has that "I will eat your soul" 2J growl. Now all it needs is WHoooooooopsh behind it ;)

Other than the Injen, you're going to have to fab some sort of open air filter onto your MAS. And personally that will look far worse than the BFI. You could always go with a K&N drop filter. If was looking to buy a new SC, and saw that someone did a good job on the BFI, I would be more inclined to buy it, because of the simple fact that they put the time and effort into doing a quality job on the intake. Fact of the matter is, an Intake isn't going to add hardly any performance, and if you're going to sell the car, I would just put a K&N drop filter in. That will give you the most performance, without having to do any work. There is no point buying an Injen, or fabbing some sort of intake on the car if you are going to sell it. To the normal buyer you having an intake on the car means you beat on it, and that will most likely push them away. Once you modify the car, you cut your market interest down by quite a bit. Especially if it has a chrome pipe, or some fabricated open filter on the end of it. The BFI actually looks clean, and would very easily pass for stock. Other than that, again, K&N.

A cold air intake moves the filter element farther away from the engine, than a "regular" intake will. Ususally Cold Air Intake's put the Filter very close to the bumper, in the stream of cold air. Other than that, nothing. Just a longer pipe.

I also like the idea of it, but don't think it's very practical. In my mind that is just something else to break or cause a problem, but you are very right.. It wouldn't be THAT expensive, it's basically an electronic cut-out. And yes, I've seen many cars that have something similar installed. If your car needed 4" exhaust dumping off the DP, then I would say yes. In my mind 3" exhaust isn't that large for a forced 2J, and could handle more than enough CFM for atleast 5-600 hp.

The GReddy E-Manage system will control spark, and should fix your problem. The check engine light is probably on because of detonation. (Or I'm assuming) If I was authorized to sell with LOC, I would sell it for $350.00. That would include the injector, and Ignition harness. Installation I can't really quote on, or tuning. That is something that would be vehicle specific in person. This, like any other piggy-back will give you minimal amounts of adjustment for the injector duty, and spark. This may be all you need though. There are other methods to get more adjustment out of the E-manage system if needed. So if you need to adjust fuel and spark, this will definitely do the job. As for ignition, I'm going to let someone else handle this one. In my opinion I think you would be fine with anything from an HKS Twin Power, to an MSD DIS or 6-7A. I think that's all in how much you really want to spend. Ignition boxes range from $50-800 dollars and all provide more accurate and stronger spark. What raises the price is usually the other things that they do. (i.e. Rev-Limiters, programable) If you factor in the prices of the DIS, E-Manage and tuning, I think $1,200 sounds like a fair price. I have seen MSD installs that end up taking forever, and become a real nightmare for the Tech. So, I think it sounds very reasonable, since most of that price is Labor and tuning.

That would not only be a giant pain in the but, ungodly expensive, and a wiring nightmare. If that's what you want, go for it. I wouldn't recommend it though.

That all depends if you want to have the ability to adjust the height of the car. And how much you want to spend. Eibach Pro-Kit will definitely add a "stiffer" feel when paired with aftermarket shocks, but on the other hand, they have many MANY coilover systems to match pretty much anyone's wants and needs. Price and expectations.

Well, any turbo setup is going to quiet your exhaust, but if you're going down the path of forced induction by Turbocharging, you're going to want a bigger exhaust. When you have a naturally asperated car, you want a smaller exhaust system to give your car back pressure, this is what helps create torque. If you stuck a 3" exhaust systen on a N/A car, you would lose torque, but gain some top end. With a turbo setup, you have a giant spinning wheel in the path of exhaust, there is no problem with back pressure, so you can go with a much larger, free-flowing system, and get massive gains from this, both top and bottom end. I would suggest if you're going to eventually get a turbo setup, wait and buy exhaust until that time. This way you're not driving around with a 3" exhaust system that is going to get you no where. When the time comes that you're installing the turbo setup, THEN get your exhaust system. This way you can properly choose an exhaust system that will mount flawlessly with your downpipe. Personally, I think this is the way to go. If you were to buy now, you might run in to complications later, that would need more fabrication. Things tend to work out better when you have the full exhaust components on hand, to measure and fabricate as you see fit, or need. This is just something that I've learned after having many turbocharged cars.

GReddy isn't known at ALL for having a "RICER" sound. I don't know where you're getting that. In my 10 years of being in the "scene" I have never heard that. Now when you get to companies like Skunk2 (Skunkworks) 5Zigen, Tanabe Medalion (Super Racing and Ultra), RS-R GT2, A'PEXi N1, and HKS Hiper (Hi-Power), these all make a very -buzzing- type noise because of their Muffler design. GReddy's only "straight can/tip" design is the Evo which makes a very deep tone, the same goes with the HKS Dragger design. The Borla exhaust will give you an extremely low throaty tone. Personally, I really like the Borla sound. But, In my case I think it would be too quiet with a turbo in the exhaust flow. (Since it's a quieter design to begin with) So, I will probably opt for something a little louder..

Well, that's for tailights. Product and modification services. Not exactly a pair of clear corners. I've also seen those tailights in person, they are worth a hell of a lot more. $1,100 is cheap compared to how they perform and look. Quality is the key.. You get what you pay for

I've run a few sets of KYB's. Their softest setting is stiffer than stock. On their stiffest setting they can get pretty harsh. But, it's really all in what you want. If you want a luxury ride, AGX's aren't for you. I would go with something a little closer to stock, like a Tokico. My $.02

http://www.intellexual.net/faq.html has sound clips. As for prices, headers back around $1,200-1,500. Cat-back $500-1000. "trick" Mufflers, splattered weld, and a pile of empty beer cans ...Priceless

If I was going to use clear corner lights, I would rather pay $100 dollars for actual molded pieces of plastic from clearcorners or D-Speed, than making my own. That's just me though. With my luck I would have chunks of leaves and moisture trapped if I did it.

Yeah, straight shots and some slides will spin both tires. If too much weight seems to transfer it will drag the inside tire and slow down your motion causing your car to slow drastically, and gain traction. Just something I've noticed while waisting back tires.

The only other thing I would suggest that southern didn't suggest would be a one piece Aluminum (or other lighter material) Driveshaft. There's a guy around (or was) www.partstrader.com that made custom Toyota driveshafts. I've seen two different ones, for a MKIII and MKIV and they were extremely well done. Again this was like.. 6 years ago, but I'm sure we could hunt down a driveshaft if you really wanted one.

That wing looks like the FD RZ stock wing, or whatever that model is called type 0 .. <shrugs> Personally, I think the bomex wing looks the best on our cars. Our body lines scream flat. Something that sticks up too high just doesn't look right in my opinion.

The Gumball would be really fun to participate in. Personally, I would like to run the One Lap of America at some point in time.