Sadistic

Any car you beat is going to break. And I meant something more like a 3rd gen F-body, not a 4th. I think they would be cheaper to maintain even if you beat the hell out of it. But, I can see your point.. If someone else is paying for the repair bills, go for it I suppose. My first vehicle was an early 90's Explorer that was dead within a few weeks of driving due to mechanical failure on the dealerships part. Second was a Pontiac Sunfire. I totally destroyed that car. But, in doing so I learned respect for an automobile. I learned what they can and can't do. After that I got my first 300ZX TT. And I'm glad I had a car with a warranty or was cheap to repair. Because the Z definitely wasn't cheap to fix. And I had learned the respect I needed to not drive like an idiot and destroy it.

They are good tires, and with your Sears service agreement you'll be pretty safe. Lifetime rotating and balancing, and if you were so inclined Road Hazard coverage.

Lex, the setup is incredible. There's nothing better than a car built, and built right. There's really nothing else to say about it. It's incredible.. Bean the Type - S intercooler core alone is like.. 23.5 X 9.5 X 2.5 So his intercooler is pretty large, not counting end tanks of course. If I'm even thinking of the right core.

Might you be talking about this wing? I think he was talking about the SC Spoiler.

Being a tire guru I figure I should blurt out my opinion ;) Dunlop SP5000's are great tires. Very inexpensive, and for the money you can't get a better deal IMO. There are a lot better tires out there, but cost goes up also. I think any tire you choose is going to be better than the runflats, as long as you don't go with a cheaper Toyo, or a Sumitomo.. Anything like that.. Any 17-18" tires that costs 80-90 bucks isn't worth buying.. You get what you pay for, I can garuntee you that.

In my opinion any Lexus would make a bad first car. I'm sure almost all of you can think back to when you first got your license and all the time you spent beating the hell out of your first car. I think everyone did it. I would personally start with something that you can beat on and it won't kill you with repairs. The fact is there's a 90% chance you're going to get tickets, you're going to get in an accident, and you're going to break things.. Do you really want to stick this guy with a Lexus repair bill? I suggest something early 90's fwd or rwd, that doesn't have prestige along with it.. Buy a 5th gen civic, or a 1st gen DSM. If you want something to learn how to REALLY drive RWD, start with an F-body.. Much cheaper to fix, much cheaper to maintain. You might not be the coolest kid on the block, but I can garuntee you'll enjoy being able to drive the car because your repair bills won't take all your gas money.

A few years ago HKS made a twin turbo 4 litre.. I'm not sure if they produced the kit or not, I would say no since no one has mentioned it. But, I know they did it. Paisley also had a TT 4 Litre in his truck, didn't he?

Like I said in my other post about AFC's. Make sure the grounds are far enough apart, or it's goodbye AFC. Touchy little *BLEEP*s they are.

I agree, you can't really compare a full coilover system to a seperate spring/strut setup. But again, it's all in what you want out of your suspension. Koni/Eibach setup might be all he needs. Koni's offer very stock ride quality with a nice hint of corner performance, especially when matched with the pro kit. If he's just a daily and wants to lower his car and get a bit more cornering performance, then I think this is his best option. There is only one reason to buy a full coilover system if you're not going to show, or go to a track. They don't offer a spring that lowers your car enough. And even then, I would try to find a sleeve somewhere, or bag your car if all you're after is lowering. As for Tein being junk? I definitely don't think so. I've driven multiple cars with Tein systems, owned a car with a Tein system, and sold many Tein systems. They offer the adjustability, applications, moderate pricing, and I haven't seen one fail yet. To me that's a pretty good record. I don't understand why you would call something junk because someone else told you something, and a rep from another company at that. I understand you value their opinion. I value the opinion of my company reps, but I still wouldn't use that as a reason for flat out saying a product is junk. I personally haven't seen a riden in a car with a JIC system so I can't tell you how different they are from a Tein system. I've seen pictures and heard stories, and most of them say that the JIC's are an excellent coilover. From pictures and tech specs they look like they're extremely well put together. As for the RSX guy, I completely agree with SK on that one. There's a huge chunk of that story missing. I'm sure Ben at JIC could tell you a completely different story if given the opportunity. Customer service is one thing I feel stronly about, but there are some customers that don't want service, they are right no matter what, and want to give you a bad name unless you throw money at them.

Make sure when you install your S-AFC that you put the ground wires far enough apart. If you don't you can fry the AFC and you won't even know it. I've even seen them not fuction if the ground is too far apart also. I don't know if you're going to install it yourself or not, or if it's already done. Just something I tell everyone. AFC's were huge a few years ago, and I saw quite a few of them junked because of the ground.

lmao Wow, maybe I shouldn't have been online last night. He did say Flex. I was driving all day, and should not have been posting when I got home. I was dead tired. My apologies jz. The car does look really good though. Rabidus, have you had a chance to ride in anyone's car with the HA system? I wonder how different the two systems feel. I've only felt the RA's and HA's, and would like to know how the Flex system reacts and feels.

Last I knew, the EDFC wasn't compatible with the JZZ HA kit. Did I miss something?

If you put 40 psi of air in your tires, plan on killing half their life. Always put the air pressure that is recommended on the door plate. NEVER what you think, and NEVER max. Higher air pressure will wear the center of your tire more than the rest and turn it to junk very quickly. Not enough air pressure wears the outter, and inner edge.

Has anyone ever thought about just going with a 2JZ-GTE head instead of the entire block? I could get a head/turbo setup SO much cheaper than I could a full long block. I don't know if that's the only difference between the GE and the GTE, I'd be interested if someone knows that.

See, I thought I read some where they were going to put a 4.8 in the SC. This was quite a while ago. Probably a year and a half or so. I could be dead wrong on the engine size due to skimming over it. Just what I remember.

Personally, I'd rather have the 300 over the 400. That's why I bought mine. As for clutch length? Mine has 170k miles, and the factory clutch had to be replaced at 151k. I have all the service records, and no where else is a clutch replacement. The car was owned by a Lexus dealership owner for most of it's life. I would assume that's why. Compression is near perfect in every cylinder, and leak down is the same. In my opinion you can't buy a better engine than a 2JZ. It's superior craftmanship that make the car what it is. And I wouldn't trade my car for anything.

The kit doesn't look bad at all.. Shipping to the UK is going to be outrageous on a body kit. But, it's a knockoff kit. If that doesn't bother you, go for it.

It didn't come in the original packaging? What does it come in a brown box? Does it come with documentation or instructions? And the seller is in the US, yet it comes from Hong Kong? That stuff would make me a tad nervous. But, you did get the product, so I guess there's nothing to worry about.

Some replace the entire pillar, and some just slip over your factory pillar and stay in place by clips and screws. If these are quality pods, I suggest only buying a full replacement pillar. Usually how it goes, is the 3 pods are full replacements, and the 2 pods are a slip over. I have seen 3 pods that aren't full replacements, and 2 pods that are, so it all depends on the company.

I'm sure it's lighter than factory, because it's thinner than factory. Your factory pillar is pretty thick.

I know this is pretty much a dead issue at this point, but I'd rather have the 430 over the SLR. Actually, I'd rather have my 300 over the 430, I'd much rather have a 300 with $50,000 dollars in it, than a 430, or and SLR combined. Even if I had millions my garage would be filled with fun converted "normal guy" cars, just the way I am. I've never been much into the exotics or two seater cars. Most expensive car I would own is probably a new M3 or M5. Actually, there is one.. a Ferarri 550.. I've always thought those were pretty groovy.

Your MAS straightens air for a reason, I wouldn't suggest messing with it.

The part number is 05130NOS - 6 cylinder PowerFogger Universal System for 6 Cyls And for yours 05131NOS - for 8 Cylinders (Same system) This is a single fogger wet system. It's a kit, pretty much everything you're going to want is in these part numbers. Only other thing you might want are a couple of blankets, gauges and purge valves. Have someone that knows what they're doing install the system, I suggest a 50 shot jet for the RX, and a 75 for yours. This is *ONLY* if your vehicles are mechanically in top notch condition. Do a tune up, check the fuel pump, make sure it's working strong, change fuel filters, plugs, wires, cap, oil, do a tranny flush, o2 sensors, then have the kits installed, make sure they install EVERY safety piece that comes with the kit, then bring the car home, and pray! :D

Yeah, 19's can be pretty heavy. Unless you're going to fork out thousands, for lightweight wheels, your rims are probably going to end up being around 30-40 lbs. Your car isn't going to turn into super slow machine, or anything drastic like that. The car is going to handle quite a bit differently though. As stated before, with 19's your tires are going to have a much lower profile, so there's going to be no tires to absorb any of the road shock, so you're going to feel pretty much every crack in the road. Of course if your car is lowered, this is going to be worse than if it wasn't. The stiffer the suspension components, the more you feel.

Almost every pillar pod that I've ever seen has 52mm holes. If you want 60mm you have to get into single cups or the odd little dash mount pieces.