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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/28/2013 in Posts

  1. 5 points
    Hello Everyone, I know IACV has been a huge topic on the forum and I have found various pictures in the RX forum and ES forum on the idle air control valve (IACV) or as others call it the idle speed control valve (ISC). However, I have not found a "step by step" posting to date which definitively shows how to clean this thing so that my car stops giving me idling problems. Symptoms I have had included: - low and rough idling that would cause the car engine to start shaking after starting the car - this eventually got worse to the point that when I start my car, it would not idle unless I gave it gas - idling problems for me tended to occur more often after my engine was warm or had been sitting in the sun I hope these series of postings help you fellow LOC members out there. You've certainly helped me in the past so here's my two cents at this common problem. Additionally, the instructions I give are the way in which I have cleaned it myself. As you go about and attempt this, you may find better ways to do so. Please add and refine my instructions/terminology as needed. I am not a professional. I've only changed my oil, air filters, and conducted minor maintenance previously. The bottom line is that if you have the right tools, you should be able to do this. This discovery/ cleaning took me about 2 hours to do cause I ran into problems and there were major steps left out in previous postings that I’ve encountered read. The next time I do this, I believe I can get this done in about an hour or less. Tools Needed: 1) Tightly fitting Philips Screw Driver 2) Carb cleaner that is O2 sensor safe (I've seen CRC. I used Valvoline Carb Cleaner) 3) Locking Grip Pliers (definitely helped me remove the factory tight screws) 4) Small brush for cleaning 5) Towels for cleaning 6) Pliers (help removed brackets holding the hoses) 7) Latex gloves helps with limit the messiness. * I used the same gasket and did not replace it. No problems found. 1) Remove the hose that comes from the engine/motor that connects to the air intake hoses.( Hose is below in red – we’ll refer to this as Hose A) When you pull back the rubber hose covering, you will see that a metal bracket is holding the hose pretty tightly in place. Use the pliers to clasps the two metal pieces together to loosen the bracket and pull the hose loose. You can also do this by hand if it’s easier for you. 2) Upon removing the hose, you will want to remove the two air intake hoses. Loosen the three screws above in green and remove the hose. Below is a picture of the intake hoses removed. 3)After removing the intake hoses, I opened the lid to the air filter and moved this to the side of the car to create more working room. I believe there are two clips on the right holding the lid in place. Just pop the two clips and move the cover to the side. I also took out the air filter and temporarily moved this to the side. 4)After removing the intake hose, the throttle body/IACV/black electric coil is revealed. At this point, I removed the black electric wire from the black coil. Once the electric wire is removed you can remove the black coil from the IACV by removing the two screws. Note, the screws are factory tight so use a tight fitting screw driver to remove the screws. One of my screws was partially stripped from the dealership’s work, so I had to resort to my locking grip pliers which helped out tremendously. After removing the two screws, the black electric piece pops right off. When the black electrical coil is removed from the IACV, it exposes a small pencil sized metal stud. You will also notice a washer that sits on this stud. Don’t lose this washer. Take it and put it aside so it doesn’t fall off when you continue on in the next steps. 5)Additionally, I removed the hose coming out of the IACV. We’ll call this Hose B. This hose can be removed in the same manner by clamping the bracket and pulling the hose out. You will see that the hose is removed below. Below are pictures of before and after. 6)Here is where the fun begins. I initially attempted to remove the four screws attached to the IACV at this point, but found that after an hour, this would be nearly impossible to remove considering the location of the screws were in an extremely tight spot. The only way I would be able to remove the IACV is to remove right throttle body. Not as tough as it sounds. Three screws need to be removed to accomplish this. Again, be careful when removing the screws. Also you will see I removed another electric plug and I also cut a tie wrap. Once you complete these steps, the throttle body/ IACV comes out pretty easily. Note when you remove the throttle body, there will be one LAST hose connected to the IACV. Be careful when you remove this hose as radiator fluid may spill. Some of my fluid spilled out so I just refilled my coolant after I was done. 7)Below is a picture of the bottom view of the IACV. You now can EASILY remove the four screws connecting the IACV to the throttle body . In the picture below, I have already removed one of the screws. Once the four screws are removed the IACV and throttle body separate. Now you can clean both of them with your carb cleaner, brush, towels, cotton swabs etc…. Picture here is before I the cleaning with all the muck inside Pictures after I cleaned the IACV and throttle body This last picture is the post throttle body cleaning 8) Once you are done cleaning, just put back the throttle body/iacv the same way you took it off, and put everything back in reverse order. Ensure the gasket is in place. Also, ensure you put the washer back on the electric coil. Make sure you place hose A & B back and ensure the electric plugs are back in their original position. Once these things are in place, then it's all about putting the air filter/hoses back and you are good to go. If you have lost any coolant, make sure you refill it to a safe level. After completing this cleaning, my car starts up without any problem and idles as if I just purchased the car brand new. Replacing this at a dealership would have costed me $300-400 easily. Let me know if you have any questions. Cheers (Also, I tried to post these as separate replys, but the software combined all my replies into a single reply and did not keep them separated) *Edited the posting to have the pictures follow step by step in sequential order*
  2. 3 points
    I just purchased a NX200T. During the test drive I did not realize the headrest was a little too far forward. It is sharply angled toward the driver at the top. I am on the shorter side at 5' 6 1/2" tall and have good posture. When I sit in the driver seat with good posture my head is pushed forward about 1/2". I have to lean the seat back so I am slouching to avoid neck discomfort. I asked my dealer, service center and the U.S. corporate office for advice. There was nothing they could do. Very disappointing. The worst part is that the headrest is available outside the US with adjustable forward and aft movement at 4 intervals. I asked a few after market car parts dealers for advice. I was told it is a common problem. I was given many solutions (get another brand car's headrest, cushions, heat the metal and bend the rods, padding, etc.). Some ideas were unsafe and of course illegal I thought. For now I put some 2" cushioning in the seat to bring the rest of the seat inline with the headrest. It is better but not quite there and makes my A/C venting fairly useless, & is a little dorky. After just having paid about 50K for the fully loaded car I want a professional solution to improve the headrest. So far I have not solved it. I am curious if anyone else has had this issue and solved it? Any advice is appreciated. I am 95% happy with the car/SUV and am looking for that last 5% of comfort/fit.
  3. 3 points
    Here are a couple of tips I have picked up regarding maximizing fuel efficiency 1. Replace the spark plugs if you have not already, I prefer NGK Iridium plugs 2. Look for Cooper CS5 Grand Touring/Ultimate Touring tires, they are excellent for these cars 3. Use OVERDRIVE on the highway or at speeds in excess of 60 MPH (most say 40-50 MPH, but in my car I have observed minimal difference at those speeds). Note that you can use Overdrive at all speeds and it will keep the RPM's down but from what I have learned at slower speeds this translates to negligible fuel economy gains. 4. Set your ECT mode to NORMAL and not PWR 5. Keep the RPM's as low as possible aka don't floor it 6. Make sure your wheels are balanced and aligned properly and that your tires are also correctly inflated. 7. Mythbusters proved this, KEEP YOUR CAR CLEAN, it does SLIGHTLY affect gas mileage for the positive. 8. Turn off your A/C system if you want, it does affect gas mileage slightly, but its also a comfort, not really necessary unless you want to maximize fuel economy. 9. In reference to replacing the spark plugs, you may also want to consider replacing the ignition coil, distributor cap & rotor, and plug wires if they have not been replaced in quite some time as they can lose spark and cause poor performance, this would be within a general tune-up. 10. Replace the fuel filter, this is commonly missed on every car, and they get NASTY, unclean fuel = bad performance. Also consider getting a professional fuel service done on your car, this can help too, especially if it has not been done in some time.
  4. 3 points
    Folks, and Forum Admin, Please make a separate section on the Forum for 2016 RX models. THese have had major changes since 2015. The engine has been tweaked, there are scores of safety improvements and the look is way different. I am sure the issues will be different as well. So please rename the 2010-Present section to say 2010-2015 and keep it separate from 2016 onwards. Thanks.
  5. 3 points
    I can answer that. Those zany Brits particularly like "mark" designations: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mark_(designation Maybe it is a longing for Jaguar sedan series names. In the UK, the model year ranges of the LS400 are referenced thusly: Series 1, Mark 1 = 1990-1992 Series 1, Mark 2 = 1993-1994 Series 2, Mark 3 = 1995-1997 Series 2, Mark 4 = 1998-2000
  6. 3 points
    Replaced the Y pipe. Almost one month and no more problems.
  7. 3 points
    okay guys, I am going to give you a very constructive advice on how to fix this problem.first remove the cluster and if you do not know how go to lexls.com and follow the instructions.then remove the face cover .first grap the tach needle gently and pull untill you hear a pop,again be gentle and do not ge scared.once you hear the pop move the needle clockwise untill it pops again then gently release it.now move the needle slowly counterclock till you sit it over the zero an on the dot and make sure that it sits right on the zero.to check your work move it gently say to the mark 3 then let go it should snap right back to zero,once you have accomplished this ,you are rock & roll baby.the same thing goes for speedometer.back light is not working change cap 212,after making sure your cathodes are okay meaning the bulbs.if not you can get them at a very good price from plano lexus,they are awsome as far as price goes.gas guage slow change cap 142.while you are at it change any bad or weak bulbs ,be the warning ones or the indicator ones such as shifter position.by the way guys the cluster lexus has on the first gen is the 1992,because the psb are so robust,where the 1993 and 1994 are made a little bit on the cheapy side.this job should take about an hour if you how to handle things.good luck and let me know. please make a donation to lexls.com,this guy is great.may god bless his soul.
  8. 2 points
    List your model, year , # of owners , price when bought and from where lenght of ownership and attributed problems and repair costs. Also mention where you had it fixed ( lexus, independent, midas or diy). When it was done. Any mods done to the car and its costs. If desired your age and insurance you pay. If you have any picutes in the gallery put links in the post so we can have an idea about the car. Please only post once and if you have a question either pm the member or make a new thread . This will keep the page from being filled with excess.
  9. 2 points
    Trevor, Thanks for the info. You were correct, I had not connected the temp sender wire. It is a bugger of a thing to locate and even more difficult to fit the connector when the entire loom is in situ. The sender unit is tucked in behind the plastic spark plug channel. Done now, so everything is fine. Thanks again, Alan.
  10. 2 points
    I put together this to help anyone trying to do this on their own. I just got done replacing my left rear bearing assembly on my 2004 RX330. I make the assumption if you are doing this you can at least take off your tire, caliper and rotor. I am not a mechanic by trade, but can do many of my own repairs. Some of the names of the parts I refer to may not be exact, but I will describe them as best as I can. I had some tips on this from my buddy, who is a former Lexus master mechanic. So props to Ron for the help! Some tools I would recommend having before you start: 1. 32mm 12 point deep well socket 2. Ball peen hammer 3. Large heavy hammer, such as a 3lb steel mallet. 4. A small chisel, strong flathead screwdriver or metal starter punch. 5. Hex head 8mm -- 1 25 x 50 mm bolt. Here is the part I am replacing. The specific one I purchased was the Koyo W0133-1890398, which is an OEM part. I would recommend getting OEM parts if you can afford the cost difference. Update: For all who have asked, the vehicle used in this tutorial is AWD (All Wheel Drive). http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2004/lexus/rx330/driveshaft_-ar-_axle/wheel_hub_assembly.html First, take off the tire. Remove the two bolts holding down the brake pads to the caliper. Next, remove the two bolts holding the caliper to the rotor. Now pull off and remove the rotor. If the rotor won't budge and you can't pull it off, you can screw the hex head 8mm -- 1 25 x 50 mm bolt into the front of the rotor in one of the the two holes pictured below. As you screw it in, the rotor will push against the assembly pushing off the rotor. Once the rotor is off, you will see the emergency brake with the hub assembly in the center. You will see a groove in the center of the spindle that is held down by a 12 point nut. The edge of the nut will be slightly bent down into the groove to prevent it from spinning. Using the chisel, screwdriver or punch, you will need to bend this back up so the metal is even with the circular shape of the spindle nut so that it can be unscrewed. Be careful here because you can mess up the threading on the spindle if you don't bend it back well enough. Once you have successfully bent the spindle nut back to the correct shape, stop. Next, remove the center cap on the tire and place the tire back on the hub. Firmly tighten the tire directly to the assembly with 3 or 4 lugnuts, but you won't need it to be completely tightened down. Lower the vehicle down to the ground so that there is only enough weight to prevent the tire from spinning. Do not completely lower the vehicle down. Alternately, you can place a pipe or rod in between the lugnuts and prop it against the wheel well or ground. Basically, you will need to prevent the assembly from spinning in order to break loose and remove the spindle nut. Using the 32 mm 12 point deep well socket, remove the spindle nut. You can place a pipe on the end of the ratchet to achieve more leverage to break the nut free. Once, you have broken the nut free and removed it, raise the vehicle back up, secure it and remove the tire. Slowly turn the assembly so that the holes in the front match up with the bolts securing it to the backing plate. You will have to do one bolt at a time and remove all four bolts. There is no need to remove or do anything to the emergency brake. Once all four bolts are removed, locate the divet on the end of the spindle. Center the rounded end of the ball peen hammer against the divet and using a heavy hammer, give it a few good hard whacks. You will definitely need a hammer with some weight, I used a 3 lb steel mallet. Do not simply use a hammer to hit the spindle directly. Using the round end of the hammer against the divet distributes the strikes evenly down the spindle. You will risk damaging the threading if you start beating at it with a hammer directly. You will start to see the assembly move forward about an inch or two. One of two things will happen here. Either the assembly will break free of the backing plate, which you will simply need to hit it up, down, left and right to slowly knock it loose and out. Or as in my case, the backing plate will separate from from the axle. You are almost there! Remove the backing plate from the spindle and prop one side of it against the ledge of the axle. Hold the other side of the plate with your hand. As long as you have the one end against the ledge of the axle, holding it with your hand will be more the enough to brace it. When I tried to prop the other side of the plate against my tire, it started to slightly bent the backing plate. Give the edges of the bearing a few good whacks with heavy hammer and the assembly will drop to the floor. Now just put everything back together in reverse! Last but not least, don't forget the bend the metal of the spindle nut back down into the groove once you tighten it back down.
  11. 2 points
    Thanks for the posting! We always like new information. Paul
  12. 2 points
    Hi Nathan. I apologize for not connecting with you sooner. I am always amazed at the depth of friendship and caring that can be built with someone you have never met nor never knew what they looked like. The LOC is a place where those who enjoy their hobby can find others who like swapping stories with like minded friends. Landar was a great part of the LOC and was a great source of Lexus info and technical help. Thank you for letting us share your journey. Paul
  13. 2 points
    Hey guys i made a small video on how to replace the plastic coolant tees that get brittle with age and can crack / leak / break / leave you stranded. Its a fairly straight forward process, everything is covered in the video from tools to parts. If you have any questions let me know. Parts needed for this job: (1) Gallon of coolant - PN# 00272-1LLAC-01 (2) Coolant Tees - PN# 87248-60460 Optional, highly recommended parts for this job: (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A220 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A210 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A190 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A180 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A800 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 99556-20155
  14. 2 points
    I've had ongoing issues with the driver's side window going up when it's supposed to go down, down when it's supposed to go up, or not moving. I removed the power window switch (there's a clip under where the lock/unlock button is), unplugged the assembly and took it apart. The four small Phillips head screws holding the light-covered cover are the ones you remove. Then, you'll see the circuit board. There are two relays on that board. The larger one is in the driver's side window circuit. It is marked CR2-12v. That's the culprit. After much searching, I found it on line. I replaced the one in my 170,000 mile '01 RX-300, reassembled everything and the window now works perfectly. Finally!! BTW, I bought two relays if anyone needs one and can't find it on their own. What a PITA that window has been...
  15. 2 points
    We recently purchased a new 2017, Lexus RX350 and love it. Selling our original, one owner, 1994, LS400, with 88,000 miles. This superior designed and built, Generation 1 Lexus has been faithful to us as we have been faithful to it. We loved it and still love it. Its new owner will be blessed with full maintenance documentation and records from DAY ONE and any responses to any questions regarding its history will leave our hands with full disclosure of only "the truth". We would not hesitate to keep it and insure it with Hagerty Insurance as a "modern classic", BUT we do not have the room. If it should not sell to the right appreciative and discriminating buyer of this superior condition Lexus, we may have to make room! It is in truly excellent condition and will serve its new owner well. An ad is posted with www.ClassicCars.com. Go to the ad directly from Classic Car's front page by entering "979779" in the "cc-" prompt where indicated. Please do not hesitate to contact me with any further questions at woodman486@kc.rr.com.
  16. 2 points
    I thought I would write a solution that worked for me. This relates to codes P1354 and P1349, related codes and symptoms. Code P1354 VVI Malfunction Bank 2. Bank 2 is closest to the radiator. Often called the left side. Resulting codes: Code: P0300 - Multiple random misfires Codes: P0302, P0304. P0306 - Cylinder misfire in cylinders 2, 4 and 6. Possible code also- Code: 1153 - AF/ sensor bank 2 sensor 1 OR Code P1349 VVI Malfunction Bank 1. Bank 1 the difficult side where the intake body is. Often called the right side. Code: P0300 - Multiple random misfires Codes: P0301, P0303. P0305 - Cylinder misfire in cylinders 1, 3 and 5. Code for A/F sensor as well. Driving symptoms: The check engine light may come on periodically and go off after some driving. You may attribute it to a poorly closed gas cap ( may be the problem). You may not notice any significant performance issues. At some point the idle may get rough due to the misfire, it may idle well when cold and become rough when warm. Ignore it and there may be a fish bite (jerk) at multiple speeds and revs. You may drive at a constant speed and the car cuts back and then revs up. The brakes seem to become hard as well since insufficiently vacuum is created at idle. Solution: The code print out from from the ECM will suggest checking electrical connections, sludge etc. The first thing is to panic, and think the coils may be the problem. If you car was running OK highly unlikely all three coils on one bank will suddenly develop go bad simultaneously. The code print out from from the ECM will suggest checking electrical connections, sludge etc. If it is sludge that is causing the OCV to stick, then you have a bigger problem to address. Remove the valve covers to see if there is sludge. You are luck if the electrical connections are a loose. More then likely, it is the Oil Control Valve (OCV). Being VVT, the intake valves stroke is determined by engine RPM and load through the ECM and sensors. This in turn regulates the OCV allowing more or less oil through to control the intake valve stroke. Replacing the OCV is an easy task. Start with taking of the plastic engine cover. I have attached some pictures. To remove the OCV, remove any obstructing pipes if you have to (I did not). Remove the electrical connector and 10mm head bolt. Rotate it to break the O ring seal pull it out. You may need a flat end screwdriver to pry it under from underneath the flange. Replace with a new one. Be careful not to mix the left and right sides. The one in the picture is bank 2, left. This may not be the solution for everyone but it worked. The OCV from the dealer is about $100 and 10 minutes to install. If you are close to http://www.twsparts.com/ they sell genuine Lexus parts ($80). http://www.parkplacetexas.com/DealershipHo...?DealershipID=5 has them online cheaper but you have to pay shipping. Hope this helps some out there. Maistran.
  17. 2 points
    Many vehicles with keyless entry / push button start can be entered by thieves using a cheap amplifier that can be purchased on the Internet. If you park your vehicle near your fob (e.g. in your driveway), one of these amplifiers can be used to amplify the fobs signal - even when the fob is in your pocket - to open the vehicle door. I recently read about thieves in the city where I live capturing/recording signals from fobs as owners exit their vehicles in shopping centers and then opening vehicle doors with the recorded signals after the owners had disappeared from sight. I don't know if car manufacturers are doing anything about this problem. Google "Faraday Cage" for information on how to protect a key fob so its signal can not be captured by thieves.
  18. 2 points
    Thanks for the heads up! It seems once they get you past the warranty period they don't care. It's all about business and they will wait until a class action. It used to be if you took care of your car, it would last AND look good! I'll reconsider putting so much $ in a car in the future. Best of luck to you too!
  19. 2 points
    Exactly and I've gone through all of the appropriate steps to get assistance from Lexus and they will not help. This is my last Lexus for this reason. I'm going to drive it until there's no paint. It's not very good advertising for them. It's pitiful when I see so many with the same problem. One paint place told me it was bad primer. Good Luck to you.
  20. 2 points
    Could you run codes and give us that info....it would help us help you. By the way welcome aboard. Sounds like it is in limp mode, you could have other issues such as knock sensors/etc. but without codes don't know...
  21. 2 points
    I'll have to say quality. Of course my car is beautiful and a hoot to drive, but it is nice to know I can always depend on it. She's never let me down.
  22. 2 points
    Hi there. FYI, I just happen to have a complete set of (4) LEXUS OEM 18" alloy wheels, including (4) Top-Rated (and barely used) Michelin X-Ice Xi2 235/60R18 Snow Tires. The bad news (for me) is that shortly after we purchased them, we purchased a winter-home in extreme southern Texas = super poor planning on our part. The good news for you (or someone) is that I'm only asking $1350 for "this > $3000 package", as just one new wheel @ Lexus sells for > $500. And if you'd like to see some photo's of them, they're posted on Craigslist, or I can email some photo's to you. So if you're interested, please give me a call at 440-254-6504, which is in Northeast Ohio, east of Cleveland. Thank you. Dan.
  23. 2 points
    Well, by coincidence or not, my Mom was in town for a week and loves to grab a tailgate and manhandle it, likely a leftover habit from the good old days and the '86 Plymouth Voyageur we had growing up.... then the power feature on the tailgate stops working. Every fix I came across is basically: My tailgate is broken - Ok, push the button in the glovebox and try again. - Oh that worked, thanks. To be clear about the symptoms, the motor that grabs the door and pulls it tight still worked, but the one that raises and lowers the door was not doing anything. I'd get the 3 beeps sometimes, but that's it. So I decided to dig in. Here's what I'm looking at. Problem must be in here. So you can see I pulled down the headliner. I just got a finger in there by the actuator arm and pulled at it. It's held up towards the right side by a couple of these. Now when I looked in the mechanism, I saw that the arm that the motor drives had popped off of the pin for the door side arm. Looking at this pic you can just barely see that there's a small bushing inside the end of the motor side arm. That was actually still sitting on the pin when I first got in there but I took it and pressed it into the motor side arm with a pair of pliers. Also note that the pin has a small groove at the top, you'll need to get a C-clip in there. For reference, the C-clip I used. I had to push the motor arm back into the mechanism a bit to make room to get it back onto the pin, then pull the door down a bit and massage it to get the arm on there. Then pop the C-clip on. Surprisingly, I managed to get it on first try. Lubed up the struts on the tailgate for easy operation, opened and closed it a couple times manually ( I read somewhere this resets the system. Who knows. ) And viola! It works just like it's supposed to. This is the motor arm on the pin. Tools I used: I had to use the coathanger to pull the motor arm out from the very back of the mechanism when I started, it had pulled all the way in as if to close the door. Pliers to seat the bushing in the arm, and to seat the arm on the pin. Screwdriver to push the C-clip on. I hope this helps someone. I was motivated by fear of dealership service departments.
  24. 2 points
    Three of us spent a good two hours getting the spare tire off the truck the other day, trying to get access to some other parts of the truck. We followed the 04 lx 470 instruction book to the letter. Finally, I called up the dealer (quite frustrated and upset...afterall, doing this in 20 degree weather for over two hours and getting nowhere was not all that fun!). Guess why we could not get the tire to lower?? The instructions in the book are WRONG! It tells you to insert the "hook" end into the little cup, through the rear bumper access plate. Come to find out, that is the outdated instruction. You dont use the hook end at all...you use the silver metal end with the hex-like key to do it. The dealer confirmed that the book in indeed wrong... So, I hope this post helps someone else in the future. p.s., once we used the right adapter end getting the tire lowered down, it took us less than 30 seconds to do it! p.s.s. my dealer was very very helpful over the phone. Afterall, at first, they must have thought me some sort of babbling idiot....untill they realized the instruction book is wrong. They treated my very nicely through the whole process.......another reason I am glad I have a Lexus!! They even offered to have someone drive to my house to help!!!
  25. 2 points
    Just posted this the other day, and now I can't find it, so sorry for the repeat if it is posted elsewhere. I have a 2011 ES350 with 215/55 17 tires. Those are the only size tires the car can come with. I would like to go with a bigger tire to improve handling. To get the same diameter, I would need a 235/50 17, or a 235/45 18. Please let me know if going from the 215 stock tire to the 235 will fit properly on the ES350. I wouldn't think it would be a problem, but I am not sure sonce the factory does not offer a tire size option. Thanks all.
  26. 2 points
    Well, I did it! Installed today.... Looks great, sounds great. (Although my wife was a little upset with me when she heard it coming down the street. Oh well, the agreement was that it's "my toy" .)
  27. 2 points
    The Safety Connect portion of Lexus Enform is available separately for $139.95/year and there are discounts for multiple year subscriptions: https://secure.drivers.lexus.com/lexusdrivers/lexusenform/subscriptions.do Safety Connect is the service that includes using the emergency "S.O.S." button to speak to a real person at the response center, automatically notifies the response center with your GPS location if you crash, and provides Stolen Vehicle Location service in cooperation with law enforcement agencies. We have multiple year subscriptions to Safety Connect for our two Toyota brand vehicles and will subscribe as long as we own the vehicles. An aspect of Safety Connect that I particularly value is that it has it's own backup battery that can allow it to function even after a crash disables the rest of a vehicle's electrical system. My wife and I have AAA (and Medicare!) cards but we do not regard AAA as providing anything like the automatic and "one button push" services that Safety Connect provides.
  28. 2 points
    Does anyone know where to get a good used or rebuilt clock/climate control for 92' LS 400? The LCD display turning black seems to be a very common problem. I have checked with many auto-wreckers, they either don't have any left or are in the same condition (turning black). I had heard there were some retired Air Force personnel in California that rebuilt them. PS: Given the number of problems, one might think that Lexus would step in and do a recall or sell rebuilt units, $800+ for a new one is a bit steep. thanks, bob
  29. 2 points
    I "think" that the VAIS SL3B will provide A2DP audio streaming on your 2005 SC430: http://www.vaistech.com/site/sl3b.php There may be other companies that have products that will work but VAIS has been around time and their products were commonly offered by Lexus dealers before Lexus vehicles came with similar interfaces from the factory. I suggest that you contact VAIS and inquire before you buy. They may have other products that would be more appropriate for you.
  30. 2 points
    two bulbs replaced. you remove the wheel-house fender(you dont have to completely remove it, just unscrew the bottom portion of liner and pull it back to reveal a plastic cap/cup. and you dont have to to remove the tires; i raised the front end until ties were off the ground and turned the wheels to the left for the left bulb (if you turn the wheel to the right it will block one of the screws holding the liner) once you pull back the liner you will see a grey plastic cap which you turn CCW and pull out(its held with a rubber seal. The bulb is behind this cap. pull the connector off the bulb. the bulb is held in place with two spring clips; squeeze the clips to release the bulb. sorry i dont have pictures. note: Removing the wheels does give you a clear sight path to see the bulb rather than working blindly. hope this helps someone.
  31. 2 points
    Whatever the technical name, it is a measure of the "mass of air" going thru the throttle body. In any case, its job is to indicate to the computer how much air is flowing thru the system and how much fuel to mix with the air. Now, the IACV is kind of a 'bypass' around the throttle body...a controlled vacuum leak if you will. However, the IACV 'leak' does not show up on the air flow reading. The computer would of course know what value it is setting the IACV, primarily thru the RPM signal. I still wonder if the IACV is not the culprit. Perhaps some missed carbon on the value or seat?
  32. 2 points
    Hi there! Just moved over from the IS forum after selling my 2008 IS 250 and replacing it with 2015 ES 350. Really liking this car so far!
  33. 2 points
    Hey, anyone that has 20's or anything larger than stock, could you tell me how your ride quality is ? before and after ? how big of a difference etc etc I have a 2004 ES330 , and am thinking of getting 20's , but might just go with 18's or something more moderate if the ride quality suffers too much... any personal experience would help thanks !!
  34. 2 points
    www.snitruth.org I believe in God
  35. 2 points
    I have had no luck with my dealer on remedying the paint peeling issue. The deal continues to place liability upon Lexus since the vehicle is out of warranty. The dealer ignores the fact that I had brought the paint chipping and peeling issue to their attention on at three occasions while the vehicle was under warranty. The dealer would simply use some touch up paint and offer nothing further. I made claim for a recall with Lexus a couple years ago. The response I received was that my vehicle was an isolated instance and did not warrant a recall. If enough dissatisfied consumers articulate this issue, I am hopeful Lexus will be forthcoming and offer customer satisfaction. Thanks so much for the forum to air this issue.
  36. 2 points
    Old thread... I know... but is this (attached) the C-Best list you refer to? CBES.pdf
  37. 2 points
    Seriously the technicians at the Lexus dealership can't sit their butts down in your car and see if the heaters work?
  38. 2 points
    Hi Jeff and welcome to the Club. This particular problem is not unheard of but very few members are unable to find a solution. Personally, in a mild way, I'm not satisfied with the head rest adjustment just like you. Did Lexus Customer Service say they could get the other head rest package from Japan and retro fit it to your current installation. Try that idea if you haven't already. Also, as you drive around you'll find that most foreign cars have the same type headrest.
  39. 2 points
    Lexus LS400 '93 and '94 have a problem with the instrument cluster lights (dash lights). Many many people have this problem. The dash lights won't come on for a while, then they will flicker and finally come on. This is more evident in cold weather. This problem gets worse over a period of weeks or months until they will refuse to come on at all. When the light are off, the fuel gauge points to empty as well. The problem, I found, is in the power supply circuit boards. They are located behind the instrument cluster. I have compiled some detailed instructions on how to remove those boards. If you want a copy of those instructions, just Email (PM) me. I'll Email them to you, no charge. I would attach them here, but they are larger than the 102.4KB limit on this board. My car did that. '93 LS400. The Lexus dealer wanted $1400 to repair it. I repaired mine myself, I'm an electronics engineer and I can help you repair yours too! Email me or PM me Jim Walker jimlwalker@sbcglobal.net -------------------- I have the Repair for your '93 or '94 LS400 flickering INSTRUMENT LIGHTS! I'm an electronics engineer and have found the solution to this common problem on my own car! I want to help you with your problem too.
  40. 2 points
    Thought I'd share this b/c I looked everywhere for this info, and finally found it! The cabin air filter for 1995 is on the driver side counsel near the gas pedal! You'll need to pull carpet back to access. Appearantly many 1995s did not come with filter, either. I found an empty slot. Ordered filter thinking I'd be replacing old one. So after spraying all the gunk and leaf fragments off the A/C coil, I now have a 'fancy' charcoal filter for the cabin. Should help with my allergies. Posted in case someone else is wondering about 95 cabin filters...
  41. 2 points
    Thmsabear, yes the universal u-joints do work. I replaced both on our 2002 RX300 about 1 1/2 years ago. Stopped the vibration. We have put about 15K miles on them since the repair. I purchased the u-joints from a company out of Rockford, IL. In our case, the vibration started after the timing belt and water pump was changed. The engine had to be raised to reach some of the bolts. This caused the problem with the u-joint. Don't waste your money on a new driveshaft. Lexus will tell you that you can't replace the u-joints, that they are staked-in. "Not True" Go to: rockforddriveline.com There is a You Tube video about staked in u-joints. Do a search for: "Staked-in u-joint replacement" posted by bootsnthejeep. Hope this helps, Bill
  42. 2 points
    Many 2010 RX 350s did not come with the trailer tow kit and I, as well as other owners, have had difficulty in finding the proper parts to route power to the existing trailer hitch connector (under the bumper). I finally found a solution and it entails purchasing part number PT219-48101-TC and installing it in the right rear quadrant of the vehicle. I have attached basic installation instructions with pictures for anyone that wishes to attempt to install the converter. Note the cost is a bit more at than the after market solutions available, but it does fit right in place and matches with existing connectors so no cutting of wires is required. The converter cost is around US$90 - US$115 . Good luck and be patient! Adding RX Tow Converter for trailer lights on FWD RX 350.pdf
  43. 2 points
    You can get invaluable info at this link. http://www.lexls.com/ The above link is by far the most complete tutorial for the jobs that it does list. He deserves any donations he get. There is also a non-US guy that will sell you a download of the complete manual for about 7 bux. I found it on ebay I think. Anyway it came thru complete but lacks some indexing so you have to do a bit of searching for what you need. That guy's address is. fahad.victoria@gmail.com I think this may still be a valid addy. Drop me a line in mid Nov. if you have no luck, will be at my winter home then and have more info for you. Dikwag at gmail dot com R. Clikdik
  44. 2 points
    hi all i just bought a 2002 sc430 lexus & have the run flat tires, im not to happy with these tires & wondering what tires i should get & if there is a place on this car where i can store a spare donut tire, thanks in advance
  45. 2 points
    Riiight... This is a discussion forum, this is not owned by Lexus, and its not yours to use as a conduit for your thoughts without accepting the viewpoints of others. If you want to say something to Lexus...and not start a discussion where other people join in and share their opinions...send them an email. However if you want to be taken seriously by Lexus or anyone else I would suggest you work on your typing and writing skills beforehand. And save your opinions about what the forum should and should not be used for to those of us who have spent the last decade building it. A blog is an online publication of one persons thoughts. This is not a blog, it's a discussion forum. Thread closed.
  46. 2 points
    Thanks tex2670. Did anyone mention what causes the problem? Mileage related? How many miles on your '07? Just curious, Just saw a post on ClubLexus today with a good explanation (thanks to solotex55 -- no relation):
  47. 2 points
    The GS300 has a saddle tank with a hump in it where the drive shaft passes through. It sound like the fuel from the passenger side of the take is not being transfered over to the side that has the fuel pump in it. A simple test would be the next time you run out of fuel remove the back seat and then the fuel sending unit from under the passenger side rear seat. If you see a lot of fuel then it is not transferring. There is a tube that comes from the passenger side to the fuel pump assembly on the drivers side. A device on the fuel pump assembly creates suction to bring the fuel across. If this device is broken or the line is kinked it will not work. Ben
  48. 2 points
    Okay, So I just finished my Left rear door. Took much longer than anticipated but I tried to make it as simple as possible and I'm sure I did. I attached the rod onto a circular positive terminal type of socket (it was small, not the type you use on cars). Then I attached that onto the thumb driven lock. It turned out fantastic, the longest part was mounting the damn actuator cause it was in a terrible place, but it came out fantastic. I think the way that I did is the easiest I've seen, well at least for the Rear door. I'd also like to give a special thanks to everyone ont his forum and the other lexus owners forum that helped me do this, and save a whole lot of money.
  49. 2 points
    the pdfs are posted on Page 19, thanks to mann777, It took me well over 90 minutes to read from start to end ( all the posts of this thread). So, I am including the pdfs here anyway if anyone reading random pages. I too have both Clunk issue and 55-75MPH vibration issue on my '07 GX470 with 54K miles on it(just bought pre-owned from a remote non-Lexus dealer), hoping mann777 posted TSBs will fix my issues. I will try to call the local Lexus dealer tomorrow and see if I can get them fixed. I hope mine are covered as the TSBs say 72K or 7Years(72 Months). and couple of questions about the vibration TSB, does it have to be under the floorboard because in the TSB in mentions under diagnostic procedure that," Confirm customer complaint of vibration/drone felt in the floorboard or seat between 55 -- 75 mph by test driving the vehicle and note the speed range in which the vibration/drone occurs." I am not quite sure if I feel under the floorboard but my steering vibrates/vobbles like anything between those speeds, I feel like the whole car is vibrating. I feel this vibration in my car is between 60-75MPH, does that mean I have both the problems mentioned in the TSB, i.e. 55-65MPH and 70-75MPH, ? and why is 65-70MPH not covered in the TSB? I think I have the issue between these speeds too I guess. is there any chance that they may deny as not being the floorboard and classifying as a different issue and try to rob me? Thanks in advance. CLUNK_TSB_2008.pdf Steering_Drive_Line_Vibration_issue_Feb_2008.pdf
  50. 2 points
    It works on the 08 IS 350. I just did it. 1) open the car door, get in and close the door, pull the seat belt around and hold it without clicking it home. 2) hit the start button twice with foot off the brake. 3) right away depress the odometer reset button and hold for 10-30 seconds. 4) click home the seat belt. the on off toggle thing comes up on the odometer. select off. wait for the odometer to set. turn the car off.


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