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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/28/2013 in Posts

  1. 5 points
    Hello Everyone, I know IACV has been a huge topic on the forum and I have found various pictures in the RX forum and ES forum on the idle air control valve (IACV) or as others call it the idle speed control valve (ISC). However, I have not found a "step by step" posting to date which definitively shows how to clean this thing so that my car stops giving me idling problems. Symptoms I have had included: - low and rough idling that would cause the car engine to start shaking after starting the car - this eventually got worse to the point that when I start my car, it would not idle unless I gave it gas - idling problems for me tended to occur more often after my engine was warm or had been sitting in the sun I hope these series of postings help you fellow LOC members out there. You've certainly helped me in the past so here's my two cents at this common problem. Additionally, the instructions I give are the way in which I have cleaned it myself. As you go about and attempt this, you may find better ways to do so. Please add and refine my instructions/terminology as needed. I am not a professional. I've only changed my oil, air filters, and conducted minor maintenance previously. The bottom line is that if you have the right tools, you should be able to do this. This discovery/ cleaning took me about 2 hours to do cause I ran into problems and there were major steps left out in previous postings that I’ve encountered read. The next time I do this, I believe I can get this done in about an hour or less. Tools Needed: 1) Tightly fitting Philips Screw Driver 2) Carb cleaner that is O2 sensor safe (I've seen CRC. I used Valvoline Carb Cleaner) 3) Locking Grip Pliers (definitely helped me remove the factory tight screws) 4) Small brush for cleaning 5) Towels for cleaning 6) Pliers (help removed brackets holding the hoses) 7) Latex gloves helps with limit the messiness. * I used the same gasket and did not replace it. No problems found. 1) Remove the hose that comes from the engine/motor that connects to the air intake hoses.( Hose is below in red – we’ll refer to this as Hose A) When you pull back the rubber hose covering, you will see that a metal bracket is holding the hose pretty tightly in place. Use the pliers to clasps the two metal pieces together to loosen the bracket and pull the hose loose. You can also do this by hand if it’s easier for you. 2) Upon removing the hose, you will want to remove the two air intake hoses. Loosen the three screws above in green and remove the hose. Below is a picture of the intake hoses removed. 3)After removing the intake hoses, I opened the lid to the air filter and moved this to the side of the car to create more working room. I believe there are two clips on the right holding the lid in place. Just pop the two clips and move the cover to the side. I also took out the air filter and temporarily moved this to the side. 4)After removing the intake hose, the throttle body/IACV/black electric coil is revealed. At this point, I removed the black electric wire from the black coil. Once the electric wire is removed you can remove the black coil from the IACV by removing the two screws. Note, the screws are factory tight so use a tight fitting screw driver to remove the screws. One of my screws was partially stripped from the dealership’s work, so I had to resort to my locking grip pliers which helped out tremendously. After removing the two screws, the black electric piece pops right off. When the black electrical coil is removed from the IACV, it exposes a small pencil sized metal stud. You will also notice a washer that sits on this stud. Don’t lose this washer. Take it and put it aside so it doesn’t fall off when you continue on in the next steps. 5)Additionally, I removed the hose coming out of the IACV. We’ll call this Hose B. This hose can be removed in the same manner by clamping the bracket and pulling the hose out. You will see that the hose is removed below. Below are pictures of before and after. 6)Here is where the fun begins. I initially attempted to remove the four screws attached to the IACV at this point, but found that after an hour, this would be nearly impossible to remove considering the location of the screws were in an extremely tight spot. The only way I would be able to remove the IACV is to remove right throttle body. Not as tough as it sounds. Three screws need to be removed to accomplish this. Again, be careful when removing the screws. Also you will see I removed another electric plug and I also cut a tie wrap. Once you complete these steps, the throttle body/ IACV comes out pretty easily. Note when you remove the throttle body, there will be one LAST hose connected to the IACV. Be careful when you remove this hose as radiator fluid may spill. Some of my fluid spilled out so I just refilled my coolant after I was done. 7)Below is a picture of the bottom view of the IACV. You now can EASILY remove the four screws connecting the IACV to the throttle body . In the picture below, I have already removed one of the screws. Once the four screws are removed the IACV and throttle body separate. Now you can clean both of them with your carb cleaner, brush, towels, cotton swabs etc…. Picture here is before I the cleaning with all the muck inside Pictures after I cleaned the IACV and throttle body This last picture is the post throttle body cleaning 8) Once you are done cleaning, just put back the throttle body/iacv the same way you took it off, and put everything back in reverse order. Ensure the gasket is in place. Also, ensure you put the washer back on the electric coil. Make sure you place hose A & B back and ensure the electric plugs are back in their original position. Once these things are in place, then it's all about putting the air filter/hoses back and you are good to go. If you have lost any coolant, make sure you refill it to a safe level. After completing this cleaning, my car starts up without any problem and idles as if I just purchased the car brand new. Replacing this at a dealership would have costed me $300-400 easily. Let me know if you have any questions. Cheers (Also, I tried to post these as separate replys, but the software combined all my replies into a single reply and did not keep them separated) *Edited the posting to have the pictures follow step by step in sequential order*
  2. 3 points
    I just purchased a NX200T. During the test drive I did not realize the headrest was a little too far forward. It is sharply angled toward the driver at the top. I am on the shorter side at 5' 6 1/2" tall and have good posture. When I sit in the driver seat with good posture my head is pushed forward about 1/2". I have to lean the seat back so I am slouching to avoid neck discomfort. I asked my dealer, service center and the U.S. corporate office for advice. There was nothing they could do. Very disappointing. The worst part is that the headrest is available outside the US with adjustable forward and aft movement at 4 intervals. I asked a few after market car parts dealers for advice. I was told it is a common problem. I was given many solutions (get another brand car's headrest, cushions, heat the metal and bend the rods, padding, etc.). Some ideas were unsafe and of course illegal I thought. For now I put some 2" cushioning in the seat to bring the rest of the seat inline with the headrest. It is better but not quite there and makes my A/C venting fairly useless, & is a little dorky. After just having paid about 50K for the fully loaded car I want a professional solution to improve the headrest. So far I have not solved it. I am curious if anyone else has had this issue and solved it? Any advice is appreciated. I am 95% happy with the car/SUV and am looking for that last 5% of comfort/fit.
  3. 3 points
    Replaced the Y pipe. Almost one month and no more problems.
  4. 3 points
    okay guys, I am going to give you a very constructive advice on how to fix this problem.first remove the cluster and if you do not know how go to lexls.com and follow the instructions.then remove the face cover .first grap the tach needle gently and pull untill you hear a pop,again be gentle and do not ge scared.once you hear the pop move the needle clockwise untill it pops again then gently release it.now move the needle slowly counterclock till you sit it over the zero an on the dot and make sure that it sits right on the zero.to check your work move it gently say to the mark 3 then let go it should snap right back to zero,once you have accomplished this ,you are rock & roll baby.the same thing goes for speedometer.back light is not working change cap 212,after making sure your cathodes are okay meaning the bulbs.if not you can get them at a very good price from plano lexus,they are awsome as far as price goes.gas guage slow change cap 142.while you are at it change any bad or weak bulbs ,be the warning ones or the indicator ones such as shifter position.by the way guys the cluster lexus has on the first gen is the 1992,because the psb are so robust,where the 1993 and 1994 are made a little bit on the cheapy side.this job should take about an hour if you how to handle things.good luck and let me know. please make a donation to lexls.com,this guy is great.may god bless his soul.
  5. 2 points
    List your model, year , # of owners , price when bought and from where lenght of ownership and attributed problems and repair costs. Also mention where you had it fixed ( lexus, independent, midas or diy). When it was done. Any mods done to the car and its costs. If desired your age and insurance you pay. If you have any picutes in the gallery put links in the post so we can have an idea about the car. Please only post once and if you have a question either pm the member or make a new thread . This will keep the page from being filled with excess.
  6. 2 points
    I put together this to help anyone trying to do this on their own. I just got done replacing my left rear bearing assembly on my 2004 RX330. I make the assumption if you are doing this you can at least take off your tire, caliper and rotor. I am not a mechanic by trade, but can do many of my own repairs. Some of the names of the parts I refer to may not be exact, but I will describe them as best as I can. I had some tips on this from my buddy, who is a former Lexus master mechanic. So props to Ron for the help! Some tools I would recommend having before you start: 1. 32mm 12 point deep well socket 2. Ball peen hammer 3. Large heavy hammer, such as a 3lb steel mallet. 4. A small chisel, strong flathead screwdriver or metal starter punch. 5. Hex head 8mm -- 1 25 x 50 mm bolt. Here is the part I am replacing. The specific one I purchased was the Koyo W0133-1890398, which is an OEM part. I would recommend getting OEM parts if you can afford the cost difference. Update: For all who have asked, the vehicle used in this tutorial is AWD (All Wheel Drive). http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2004/lexus/rx330/driveshaft_-ar-_axle/wheel_hub_assembly.html First, take off the tire. Remove the two bolts holding down the brake pads to the caliper. Next, remove the two bolts holding the caliper to the rotor. Now pull off and remove the rotor. If the rotor won't budge and you can't pull it off, you can screw the hex head 8mm -- 1 25 x 50 mm bolt into the front of the rotor in one of the the two holes pictured below. As you screw it in, the rotor will push against the assembly pushing off the rotor. Once the rotor is off, you will see the emergency brake with the hub assembly in the center. You will see a groove in the center of the spindle that is held down by a 12 point nut. The edge of the nut will be slightly bent down into the groove to prevent it from spinning. Using the chisel, screwdriver or punch, you will need to bend this back up so the metal is even with the circular shape of the spindle nut so that it can be unscrewed. Be careful here because you can mess up the threading on the spindle if you don't bend it back well enough. Once you have successfully bent the spindle nut back to the correct shape, stop. Next, remove the center cap on the tire and place the tire back on the hub. Firmly tighten the tire directly to the assembly with 3 or 4 lugnuts, but you won't need it to be completely tightened down. Lower the vehicle down to the ground so that there is only enough weight to prevent the tire from spinning. Do not completely lower the vehicle down. Alternately, you can place a pipe or rod in between the lugnuts and prop it against the wheel well or ground. Basically, you will need to prevent the assembly from spinning in order to break loose and remove the spindle nut. Using the 32 mm 12 point deep well socket, remove the spindle nut. You can place a pipe on the end of the ratchet to achieve more leverage to break the nut free. Once, you have broken the nut free and removed it, raise the vehicle back up, secure it and remove the tire. Slowly turn the assembly so that the holes in the front match up with the bolts securing it to the backing plate. You will have to do one bolt at a time and remove all four bolts. There is no need to remove or do anything to the emergency brake. Once all four bolts are removed, locate the divet on the end of the spindle. Center the rounded end of the ball peen hammer against the divet and using a heavy hammer, give it a few good hard whacks. You will definitely need a hammer with some weight, I used a 3 lb steel mallet. Do not simply use a hammer to hit the spindle directly. Using the round end of the hammer against the divet distributes the strikes evenly down the spindle. You will risk damaging the threading if you start beating at it with a hammer directly. You will start to see the assembly move forward about an inch or two. One of two things will happen here. Either the assembly will break free of the backing plate, which you will simply need to hit it up, down, left and right to slowly knock it loose and out. Or as in my case, the backing plate will separate from from the axle. You are almost there! Remove the backing plate from the spindle and prop one side of it against the ledge of the axle. Hold the other side of the plate with your hand. As long as you have the one end against the ledge of the axle, holding it with your hand will be more the enough to brace it. When I tried to prop the other side of the plate against my tire, it started to slightly bent the backing plate. Give the edges of the bearing a few good whacks with heavy hammer and the assembly will drop to the floor. Now just put everything back together in reverse! Last but not least, don't forget the bend the metal of the spindle nut back down into the groove once you tighten it back down.
  7. 2 points
    Many have questions on how to program the Homelink buttons. It is in the owner's manual but sometimes it may be confusing to understand the terminology. I've summarized what the manual states, and hopefully this will help anyone in the future (as I have in the past already hehe) "Ok. Delete the codes in the homelink then try this. (To delete, hold down the first and third buttons at the same time, hold for about 30-60 seconds till the light blinks really fast. Release and check if deleted if the light blinks at a slow but steady pace. That means there's nothing stored on that button) Hold down the garage door button and the homelink button u want programmed. Once the light changes from a slow blinking light to a rapid blinking light, release both buttons. Then go to the garage door openner and (this is different for all garage door openners) push the "learn" button ONCE. Within 30 secs, press the same button u programmed 3 times, and it should work."
  8. 2 points
    I've had ongoing issues with the driver's side window going up when it's supposed to go down, down when it's supposed to go up, or not moving. I removed the power window switch (there's a clip under where the lock/unlock button is), unplugged the assembly and took it apart. The four small Phillips head screws holding the light-covered cover are the ones you remove. Then, you'll see the circuit board. There are two relays on that board. The larger one is in the driver's side window circuit. It is marked CR2-12v. That's the culprit. After much searching, I found it on line. I replaced the one in my 170,000 mile '01 RX-300, reassembled everything and the window now works perfectly. Finally!! BTW, I bought two relays if anyone needs one and can't find it on their own. What a PITA that window has been...
  9. 2 points
    Three of us spent a good two hours getting the spare tire off the truck the other day, trying to get access to some other parts of the truck. We followed the 04 lx 470 instruction book to the letter. Finally, I called up the dealer (quite frustrated and upset...afterall, doing this in 20 degree weather for over two hours and getting nowhere was not all that fun!). Guess why we could not get the tire to lower?? The instructions in the book are WRONG! It tells you to insert the "hook" end into the little cup, through the rear bumper access plate. Come to find out, that is the outdated instruction. You dont use the hook end at all...you use the silver metal end with the hex-like key to do it. The dealer confirmed that the book in indeed wrong... So, I hope this post helps someone else in the future. p.s., once we used the right adapter end getting the tire lowered down, it took us less than 30 seconds to do it! p.s.s. my dealer was very very helpful over the phone. Afterall, at first, they must have thought me some sort of babbling idiot....untill they realized the instruction book is wrong. They treated my very nicely through the whole process.......another reason I am glad I have a Lexus!! They even offered to have someone drive to my house to help!!!
  10. 2 points
    Hey, anyone that has 20's or anything larger than stock, could you tell me how your ride quality is ? before and after ? how big of a difference etc etc I have a 2004 ES330 , and am thinking of getting 20's , but might just go with 18's or something more moderate if the ride quality suffers too much... any personal experience would help thanks !!
  11. 2 points
    I have had no luck with my dealer on remedying the paint peeling issue. The deal continues to place liability upon Lexus since the vehicle is out of warranty. The dealer ignores the fact that I had brought the paint chipping and peeling issue to their attention on at three occasions while the vehicle was under warranty. The dealer would simply use some touch up paint and offer nothing further. I made claim for a recall with Lexus a couple years ago. The response I received was that my vehicle was an isolated instance and did not warrant a recall. If enough dissatisfied consumers articulate this issue, I am hopeful Lexus will be forthcoming and offer customer satisfaction. Thanks so much for the forum to air this issue.
  12. 2 points
    I might give salt or other chemicals from the road but the peeling is also happening on the roof of my truck. I'm 6' and have to step up on the side rails to see it. I just happened to look out of my house window and discovered that the roof was also peeling. If you look on the internet it's not just Lexus it also a lot of Toyota customers complaining about peeling paint. I just feel like if you spend over $50,000 on a vehicle you shouldn't have these problems.
  13. 2 points
    Seriously the technicians at the Lexus dealership can't sit their butts down in your car and see if the heaters work?
  14. 2 points
    Hi Jeff and welcome to the Club. This particular problem is not unheard of but very few members are unable to find a solution. Personally, in a mild way, I'm not satisfied with the head rest adjustment just like you. Did Lexus Customer Service say they could get the other head rest package from Japan and retro fit it to your current installation. Try that idea if you haven't already. Also, as you drive around you'll find that most foreign cars have the same type headrest.
  15. 2 points
    Thought I'd share this b/c I looked everywhere for this info, and finally found it! The cabin air filter for 1995 is on the driver side counsel near the gas pedal! You'll need to pull carpet back to access. Appearantly many 1995s did not come with filter, either. I found an empty slot. Ordered filter thinking I'd be replacing old one. So after spraying all the gunk and leaf fragments off the A/C coil, I now have a 'fancy' charcoal filter for the cabin. Should help with my allergies. Posted in case someone else is wondering about 95 cabin filters...
  16. 2 points
    Thmsabear, yes the universal u-joints do work. I replaced both on our 2002 RX300 about 1 1/2 years ago. Stopped the vibration. We have put about 15K miles on them since the repair. I purchased the u-joints from a company out of Rockford, IL. In our case, the vibration started after the timing belt and water pump was changed. The engine had to be raised to reach some of the bolts. This caused the problem with the u-joint. Don't waste your money on a new driveshaft. Lexus will tell you that you can't replace the u-joints, that they are staked-in. "Not True" Go to: rockforddriveline.com There is a You Tube video about staked in u-joints. Do a search for: "Staked-in u-joint replacement" posted by bootsnthejeep. Hope this helps, Bill
  17. 2 points
    Many 2010 RX 350s did not come with the trailer tow kit and I, as well as other owners, have had difficulty in finding the proper parts to route power to the existing trailer hitch connector (under the bumper). I finally found a solution and it entails purchasing part number PT219-48101-TC and installing it in the right rear quadrant of the vehicle. I have attached basic installation instructions with pictures for anyone that wishes to attempt to install the converter. Note the cost is a bit more at than the after market solutions available, but it does fit right in place and matches with existing connectors so no cutting of wires is required. The converter cost is around US$90 - US$115 . Good luck and be patient! Adding RX Tow Converter for trailer lights on FWD RX 350.pdf
  18. 2 points
    Hi Nate, welcome to the club.. do like Richard said and check out http://www.lexls.com/ and read up,
  19. 2 points
    You can get invaluable info at this link. http://www.lexls.com/ The above link is by far the most complete tutorial for the jobs that it does list. He deserves any donations he get. There is also a non-US guy that will sell you a download of the complete manual for about 7 bux. I found it on ebay I think. Anyway it came thru complete but lacks some indexing so you have to do a bit of searching for what you need. That guy's address is. fahad.victoria@gmail.com I think this may still be a valid addy. Drop me a line in mid Nov. if you have no luck, will be at my winter home then and have more info for you. Dikwag at gmail dot com R. Clikdik
  20. 2 points
    Hi Brian and welcome to the LOC. You've asked some good questions and have gotten some good answers. I'll try to add some more information for you to take into consideration. I have owned a 2005 ES330, a 2010 ES350, and now a 2013 ES350. All three have been truly great cars, yet each had it's unique qualities. All had and have an excellent ride. The 2013 has been tuned to provide more responsive handling but without sacrificing the Lexus ride and quite cabin. Now, is it as quite and smooth as the 2010 Es was? To me, it is. But to you, you have no referance point other than the ATS. So asking about the ride and quite of the Lexus is of no help because you never drove an older one. Reliability on all Lexus/Toyota products is excellent. Lexus has been the best selling luxury car or in the top three of the best selling luxury cars for the past 5 years. Reliabilaty is a big reason for that. I have never had better service or better technicians service my cars than my Lexus dealer. And in saying that I should tell you that my dealer also sells Cadillac and gives those customers the same high level of service. One of the diffrences with the 2013 ES is the change from a Camry based chasis to using the Toyota Avalon chasis. This frame is longer and more rigid and also gives more interior cabin room. Lexus offers the Mark Levinson premium sound system featuring 19 speakers surrounding the drivers cabin. I think the peak rrms is around 550 watts. (You should look that up) I'm pretty much a snob when it comes to sound systems. I've listened to the Bose system, and in fact I use some Bose products at home. However, the car Bose system does not provide the clarity and range that the Mark Levinson system does. One area where I think the Levinson system is a little weak is the low bass end. The Mark Levinson system comes packaged with the Lexus navigation unit. Back to the ride and road noise for a last remark. Tires make a tremendous difference in the ride and outside noise on any car. As an example, last December when I took deliverly of my 2013, i saw that it had come from the factory with Bridgestone tires. Over the last few years there have been many disscuscions about what tires were best on which cars. I have foud that Michlen Primacy MX4 are by far the best choice for a ES350. They give a smooth ride and oh so quite. So, I had the dealer take off the Bridgestones and put on the Michlens at no charge to me. I have not driven th ATS, and it sounds like a nice ride. But I think if you do some research you may find that the Cadillac product will not hold its value as well as a Lexus. Paul
  21. 2 points
    Ah perhaps you mean you want to know how to do it yourself.. To reset the data, perform the following operations: Push the “ODO/TRIP” button to change the display to blank. Turn the ignition switch off. Turn the ignition switch to “ON” with the trip meter “RESET” button held down. Keep pushing the “RESET” button for longer than 5 seconds after the ignition is turned on. After the above operation, the master warning light comes on, a warning tone sounds and the above message appears to inform you that the engine oil maintenance data has been reset. (U.S.A. only)
  22. 2 points
    James, not complaining about the prices, not expecting the manufacturer to assume liability forever, but this is not my first rodeo, I have owned toyotas since 1983 when I purchased my dream car a 1979 Celica a 474 brown hatchback, from there I went to the 1984 Supra,1984 Camry, 1990 Camry, 1987 Truck, 1991 Tercel, 1991 Corolla, 2002 Camry, 2006 Camry, 1993 4Runner, 1996 Camry, 1996 4runner, 2001 Rav4, 2002 Tacoma, 2001 Avalon, 2007Tundra you name it I had my share of Toyotas, but I never had something like this go bad in any car I have owned and you dont go out and pay over $90,000.00 for a car to go and start replacing parts like this 4 years later especialy driving in the city with nicely paved roads.( I understand if I was driving in unpaved roads full of pot holes) James the 1992 Camry went from my to my oldest son to the youngest and it finally died due to lack of maintenance and him neglecting to replace a leacky front crank seal, instead he chhose to add oil all the time, the car had over 330k miles, so I know my Toyotas. Listen on my LS460 first the radio while playing CD if you go over a bump it shoot the radio off, this happen while the car was under warranty, brake actuator making some noise, replaced under warranty, engine valves, done under a recall, wind noise due to some deffective mouldings, a clunk in the transmission as you slow down ( intermitent) I can wait to see how much this will turn out to be? and the latest my lower control arm bushing issue, the leather wering our worst than on my older Lexus. not feeling it. I religiously take the car to be service either at a Lexus dealer or a Toyota dealer ( who told me about the arm issue) religiously, they sell me some service and I just get it done because I drive a lot and know that in order for the car to do what it is supposed to do I have to do my part. like I say before not what I expected from this car, considering the S550 and the E350 to replace my 2 nicer cars seriously. furthermore do you know I have over 120k miles on my 2006 IS250 and the only actual repair was a bad air fuel ratio sensor, under $ 400, that is what I am talking about, the rest maintenace on the clock, no complains on this baby and this is why I purchased the nicer Lexus I expected better. that is all.
  23. 2 points
    Thanks tex2670. Did anyone mention what causes the problem? Mileage related? How many miles on your '07? Just curious, Just saw a post on ClubLexus today with a good explanation (thanks to solotex55 -- no relation):
  24. 2 points
    Okay, So I just finished my Left rear door. Took much longer than anticipated but I tried to make it as simple as possible and I'm sure I did. I attached the rod onto a circular positive terminal type of socket (it was small, not the type you use on cars). Then I attached that onto the thumb driven lock. It turned out fantastic, the longest part was mounting the damn actuator cause it was in a terrible place, but it came out fantastic. I think the way that I did is the easiest I've seen, well at least for the Rear door. I'd also like to give a special thanks to everyone ont his forum and the other lexus owners forum that helped me do this, and save a whole lot of money.
  25. 2 points
    It works on the 08 IS 350. I just did it. 1) open the car door, get in and close the door, pull the seat belt around and hold it without clicking it home. 2) hit the start button twice with foot off the brake. 3) right away depress the odometer reset button and hold for 10-30 seconds. 4) click home the seat belt. the on off toggle thing comes up on the odometer. select off. wait for the odometer to set. turn the car off.


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