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I was also sold this "invisible" ad on! Only to be told by the dealership "after" that it's not adjustable. So basically it's just a dimly lit thin strip! This should be included. Lexus could and should've done better!

Hi. Some friends of mine suggested that I should post this here for more people to see. Hopefully it'll help people for years to come. You will need: About 50 bucks budget for the balljoint rod and the pipe clamp. Height sensor with bracket. 10mm wrench Washers that fit 10mm/M6 bolts. 10mm/M6 nuts Some smaller (8mm wrench) I own a 2001 LS430. The height sensor control arm's slider has rusted and become damaged over the last 19 or so years. The ball joint rod to the height sensor has also seized too. The height adjustment rod there in the red was seized, and the height slider in the blue was badly corroded and broken off. Rather than buy an entire control arm (green) this is an alterative method to repair it The arm is ~26mm in diameter. Buy yourself one of these pipe clamps in 26mm diameter. Or make one. Shouldn't be expensive. The hole needs to fit a M6/10mm bolt. Grind off the remnants of that slider from the control arm, and slide the pipe clamp over, and put your 10mm/M6 bolt and nut through and secure it in place where the slider used to be. Rather than using the control arm as a slider, we can instead use a sliding ball joint rod such as this one; This is a 220 320 00 32 from Mercedes - a height adjustment rod with a 8mm locking and a 10mm/M6 ball joint bolt. You can pick one up off eBay for cheap. Or find some other M6/10mm adjustable ball joint rod. Look at the diagram and try to imagine it in your head. This is what your bracket and rod/clamps should look like. One day I might snap a picture of what my repair looks like, but I hope you can make out what I mean via the diagram. This repair should be very easy. Maybe some sanding/grinding and surface preperation. The clamp will hold on tight and is easy to replace. The adjustable link rod will last longer and allow for easy adjustment, and less risk of corrosion damage. Hope this helps. This is a fairly easy job and took me less than 2 or so hours to do.

Did I mention this?..... I don't like the fact that our governments plan to force us to buy EVs. I wouldn't mind having one, as we already have solar panels and don't pay for electricity, but I think we should be able to choose what we drive (within reason).

At the part store they run a load test on the battery that mimics a big draw. If it holds up to a certain voltage it means the battery itself is not weakened yet. As the battery ages it will weaken as in not be able to supply a given amount of cold cranking amps. When its cold the oil thickens some thereby making the engine have to work harder to rotate. Hence the term "cold" cranking amps. I'd say you should investigate why the check engine lamp is lighting up. It could be a sign of what is taking place to cause your car to struggle to crank over. The part store can often "read the code" and determine why the CEL is lighting. My gut tells me your voltage regulator in the alternator is hit and miss. A long time ago that was a little box on the fire wall or fender. These days they are inside of the alternator. It determines how much electricity goes to the engine to keep it running and to the battery to charge it. It only has to be off by a little to keep the engine running but not have extra to charge the battery. Another issue could be a parasitic drain. An out of the ordinary draw on the battery when the car isn't running. In my 04 GS 300 for example the CD changer kept trying to change discs and the seat memory kept activating. Now I could not hear the disc changer nor was the seat memory moving the seat, but they were drawing on the system leading to a weak or dead battery if I didn't drive the car every day. Yet another issue may be short trips don't allow the battery to charge enough. Example; start the car, drive to a store 10 minutes away, finish there, start car and drive 10 minutes to another store. Never giving the engine a good 30-45 minutes to charge the battery back up to the voltage used to start the car can also lead to the hard to crank or dead battery issue. Hope you find it soon and it's a cheap and easy fix.

No reason to upgrade, Those stock wheels are Classic on the SC 😉

But you love the Covid virus? 🙄

I just installed the rr racing supercharger. It’s the only way to go bud

That one is my son's new puppy. Her brother came home with me Chocolate lab mom, stranger in the night dad Yesterday they played all afternoon.

Purchase has been made!...I could not turn down the deal I got & the actual ES...2020 ES 350 'premium' with only 11k miles in Nebula Grey Pearl (windows are already tinted)....over 2 years of full factory warranty remaining; 1 owner, full service history & Lexus CPO. Our 'premium package' in Canada is equipped quite differently than our friends south of the border....with more features / standard equipment. Originally I wanted the UL package....but in these parts, they are very rare (I reached out to 17 Lexus dealers in a 400 mile radius of me...the UL units that are available are 5 to 6 k more & only about 20% are actually at Lexus dealers...the premium pkg checks 95% of the boxes I was looking for....as the expression goes 'don't look a gift horse in the mouth'. I literally have a 6 minute drive to work... I pick the car up this Saturday.

I like it when I'm trimming a rose bush, grab one to place in a jar and while heading indoors the Mrs arrives from work so I hand her the rose. Or when I come from work and the dog greets me at the door, tail all wagging-like. And the parrot says "welcome home"…… Or when a nice breeze blows just as the grass cut chore is over and the Mrs brings out a tall glass of ice cold spring water. Or when a new baseball cap fits my noggin just right without adjusting it. Or I step on the bathroom scale expecting to have gained weight but the scale shows I actually lost a little. Or when my son and I went to do the first start after an engine swap, expecting a hard to start issue but ole bessy fires right up. Or when the lawnmover starts first pull……again. Or helping out old people. Or thanking a soldier/veteran. Or tipping the person at the toll booth. Yes I stop and pay in cash so I can do that. Or when the voicemail on your phone was not a robo-call and instead was a friend telling you "hello, here's my new phone number" Or when you sneeze and a perfect stranger says "bless you". Life is short. But smiling makes you live longer. Trouble with being dead is it lasts so long.

The cost of dental work, especially deep cleaning by laser and periodontal surgery, but also including implants.

That's the view when I pull into the driveway after work. Unseen in the photo is the dog wagging his tail "it's that guy, he's back, yay!!"

Update: I think I have got it after all the work, time, and money spent. I started checking again I found an unbelievable vacuum leak around lower intake manifold. replace gasket today runs great thanks for all of the support. something that simple fix. when the engine was swap the starter was replaced. The gasket moved or something apparently cause a vacuum leak. I had no idea a vacuum leak could cause random misfires. I was sure it was an ignition problem.

My Daily 😀

The Lexus brand cell phone that was a dealer installed option lowered the HVAC fan speed and muted the audio system while a call was in progress. I even connected an aftermarket Nokia CARK-91 phone system I installed in my second (2000) LS400 to mute the audio system but I didn't bother to connect it to lower the HVAC fan speed. Even when a Lexus phone system was never installed, corrosion of the factory installed cell phone harness in the trunk can cause HVAC and audio system issues.

20 years ago I swapped a domain name for a Lexus. The love affair started and I am now on my 10th Lexus

And Because We All Love Pictures 🙂

My Lexus is my weekend car. My daily is my 2009 Mazda 3i.

If you really want to know what is not to like about it: I would like a car that drives without polluting. I do not at all mind if it is powered with a battery as long as it is not made in a factory in China using slaves and where the power to the factory come from burning coal. Of course it should not be a battery that would make the car having a much limited range when temperature get down to zero, or some days below that. It would also be needed that the materials to make the battery can be obtained without destroying the planet searching for the materials. Not to forget that there got to be so much of these materials that there is enough to make batteries enough to convert all cars to electric cars. The materials we use to make batteries now are not available in such quantities and the batteries we have now have very limited time where they are holding charge and when no longer really great very expensive to get the materials the batteries are made of out for reuse. That the batteries should be able to keep the power without losing too much when not used a couple of days just like a gasoline car is also useful. Of course it would not be funny if driving through Europe to visit family I would not be able to charge the battery more or less at same speed as filling gasoline on the one I have now. If I am asking too much maybe a battery powered car is not for me. Or anybody else that would like to leave the planet in as good a condition as we received it so our children will not have to repair all the damages we have made to the planet while we were searching for easy found solutions that are actually not solutions. EV cars, the way they are made now, are not polluting less – yes they are – in the streets of my town, but making the batteries, transporting them, charging them with the very “in no way at all” green power where we live actually make EV cars more polluting than driving a well kept little gasoline car. I sure wish that we could find a material that could make batteries last a long time and not just the 6 – 12 years with steadily losing ability to keep charge. It would also be nice if the battery was light and not hard on the tyres that deteriorate more the heavier the car is. If the new batteries were so light that they could be used in air-planes that would really help reduce pollution as the private cars we talk so much about actually are not a major polluter. Why can politicians not understand that even with all they do now for the environment pollution is not going down but increasing? EV cars the way they are now - are for people not thinking about environment: 60% of the electricity in Spain is made from non-renewable s coal, oil, gas; 35% from nuclear; only 5% from renewable sources; just saw that in the electricity bill today. That the 35% from nuclear are not damaging the climate now could put that figure up to 40%. Still 60% of the energy put in electric cars is dirty and utterly polluting. Worldwide numbers are not even that good. This explain why charging an electric car is not really doing any good for the environment. And when the factories making the batteries to electric cars are not informing from where the energy that is used in the factories come from: mean it could be quite a good deal not green, more grey or even black. Considering above-mentioned numbers driving electric cars pollute between 15 and 60% more than if we continued to use the gasoline cars we are driving in now. Would not need new cars with new batteries, just new oil in the engines now and then. https://www.asoc.org/learn/antarctic-ice-and-rising-sea-levels/ But as it maybe already too late to change the way climate is going now, we can just continue the headless way we are used to: https://abcnews.go.com/International/late-prevent-significant-melting-west-antarctic-ice-shelf/story?id=104144755

Typically, a flashing CEL means that engine damage is eminent (usually catalytic converter damage). In your case, probably due to overly rich mixture or misfires. Perhaps the plug wire repair was temporary? As far as no communication with a scan tool, read here. Not saying this is the problem but it should be towards the top of the "should be considered" list: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/656360-all-my-crazy-lexus-issues-solved-ecu-leaking-capacitor.html Of particular interest from link: MODELS/ENGINES AFFECTED: This issue affects all Lexus & Toyota models with the following engines: 1JZ, 2JZ, 1KZ, 1UZ, 5E, 1G, 3S The following are some of the models affected: ● Lexus LS400 - 1990-2000 (in 1997 and earlier models, the problem is extremely common) ● Lexus SC300 - 1993-2000 ● Lexus SC400 - 1992-2000 ● Lexus GS300 - 1993-1996 ● Toyota Celica GT - 1985 -1998 ● Toyota Supra Mark III (JDM) - 1986-1993 ● Toyota Supra GT - 1995-1997 ● Toyota Supra Mark IV - 1993-2002 ● Toyota Supra Twin Turbo - 1993-2002 ● Toyota MR2 - 1990-1999 ● Toyota Camry - 1987-2001 ● Toyota Soarer - 1992-2000 ● Toyota Aristo - 1993-1996 ● Toyota Celsior - 1990-2000 SYMPTOMS: Please understand that any one of these symptoms can be a sign of ECU capacitors beginning to fail. - You do not need all or most of them to have this issue! Your ECU capacitors are strongly suspected if you have at least one of the following intermittent issues on your Lexus or Toyota: ● problems in getting into diagnostic mode or scanner says "no communication" ● random dropping into "limp home" mode ● weird shifting problems ● OBD port is unresponsive, seems dead ● throwing random fault codes ● engine won't rev out/rev limits at 2000 or less rpm ● engine runs like crap, then suddenly runs fine again ● random not starting or cutting out ● low idle or erratic idle ● often very hard to start, requires starting fluid ● transmission will not automatically shift, only manual shift is possible ● transmission jerks from 1st to 2nd gear, and kinda slips from 2nd to 3rd ● no A/C compressor operation ● idle speed rolling up and down, or sometimes too low and sometimes too high ● speedometer not working reliably ● speed (cruise) control not working ● tachometer not working sometimes ● air bag light flickering intermittently ● A/C going into reset with flashing front defog light (front defog light typically flashing 10 times) ● check engine light on sometimes, but no codes stored, often in concert with ECT light ● ECU not communicating with scanners or not displaying codes with jumper installed ● bad sulfur exhaust smell in concert with not running right above

It's cheap in the view of things. I don't want to have to replace this motor. I shopped for 9 month before buying my SC430. I have done maintenance that it turned out had already been done. I'm not going to call the prior owner with these types of questions. I save those calls for important stuff. So I did all the fluids a week ago. engine oil it was due and I knew it from the miles I had put on. Transmission fluid was perfect when I dropped the pan, no burnt smell, no metal on the magnets in the pan. Cleaned it all anyway, changed the filter and gasket and added 6 quarts back in. But perfect fluid should have been my clue that it had been done. LOL Get back to the differential, and you guessed it, dumped out perfectly clear, like new gear oil. Let it drain anyway and refilled with 2 quarts. I think most people with these cars keep the maintenance tip top. That is a plus in my book. I intend to keep this car so I like knowing where it stands maintenance wise. Yes it costs a little money but I do believe it helps the cars last. And that's why I picked a Lexus and not a Mercedes or other cars of this type of styling. If you want to gamble on maintenance there are plenty of other models of Lexus cars or others out there to do that with. But I bought this car because it's becoming a classic and its got the Toyota drive train. I plan to keep the car the rest of my life and enjoy it for all that time.

Thanks for the encouragement, my friend used a 1/2 in. hex socket and an 18in. breaker bar and with a little effort broke all of them free. I may need a gut check when working on this car...lol

re: 400h Thank you for your reply. I'll have to jack it up and check. I happen to have a new crush washer for the drain bolt. I hope I can use that one.

https://youtu.be/vnOM7RfgP1A this is about as easy as diy projects come. No tools needed and instant results!

This partially why I gave up riding a motorcycle to focus on convertible sportscars in which I can drive with shorts and a tank top during Summer months.. 😏

I believe the image below shows the antennae routing for the RX400h.

Generally, this sort of info isn't going to had just from vin#. The build sheet is where this would likely be found. Not sure how easy it would be to get on a 7+ yr. old car. Good luck.

I like that it is Boating season here...Boat goes in next week 🙂

The cost of gas and food...Thanks o'biden

A new one can be found here.... I have used this supplier from their Japan located warehouse. worked well. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/8174050080

It helps to have a part number in hand. Here's the parts for under the engine: https://parts.lexusofroseville.com/a/Lexus_2000_LS-400/_65510_6731402/SUSPENSION-CROSSMEMBER--UNDER-COVER/431420-5102.html And the HVAC ducts: https://parts.lexusofroseville.com/a/Lexus_2000_LS-400/_72801_6723079/HEATING--AIR-CONDITIONING---CONTROL--AIR-DUCT/431420-8715.html

Welcome to the Lexus Owners Club Events forum section Its been a while since this section has seen the light of day, so thought it was time to revive it now that we have freedom of movement pretty much in most parts of the free-world. Got an event planned or just want to share one you are attending? Feel free to post up any national or local events relating to Lexus or even just events that will host Lexus cars amongst others. (please note: the Moderation Team reserve the right to remove any content that goes against Lexus Owners Club rules at any time)

My God, how old are you, 90?😏

The ls400 is a great car, I daily a 1997. That being said, the cars are getting pretty old at this point and are going to need some regular work that would be needed for any car that’s 20+ years old. If you can’t do the work yourself it’s probably not worth driving a car this old. If I didn’t do all my own work on my LS I would probably be close to 8k in the hole at this point between timing belt, water pump, trans and motor mounts, rack, little things, etc. I’ve spent about 1k on the car total for parts.

...talk about waiting until the last minute!😏

Recently purchased a 2004 SC430 - black with saddle - 157k. Have wanted one since 2002 when I saw one in the showroom. Long story short, I located one in Texas and after speaking with the owner, decided it was a worth making a deal. While waiting for the car to arrive in Colorado, I signed up for Lexus Owners Club and read as much as I could about the strengths and weaknesses of the car. All I can say is LOC is a fantastic resource for any Lexus owner, but I found it particularly valuable for my newly acquired SC. So far, I have replaced front and rear shocks/struts, both upstream O2 sensors, front brakes and rotors. Within the next month I will replace water pump, tensioners and timing belt. (previous owner did it around 95k) All repairs have been done based on recommendations and information obtained from LOC forums. The suggestions for aftermarket parts were invaluable - as were the recommendations for OEM parts. Repairs were accomplished by a local independent Toyota mechanic I have known for awhile. Cosmetically - the car is in very nice condition. It was garaged most of the time and it shows. Bottom line is a HUGE thank you to all the other SC owners for sharing your knowledge and resources on this forum. Thanks to you, I am enjoying the hell out of this car and plan to have it for many years to come. Here's a photo:

I just replaced my front pads and rotors with Akebono ACT870 and used Centric 12144122 rotors (the non-coated variety because I live in the south). The result was the exact brake feel and performance I wanted. Really impressed -- really made the car that much better. Easy tip in feel and overall modulation, much stronger braking performance than the factory pads and rotors I had, zero noise, no issues with vibrations. Really quite impressed with the Akebono pads and would recommend them to anyone here (with new or refreshed rotors, of course). Not expensive setup either and took me, what, a total of an hour to get done working slow. (Love this caliper design.) Nobody needs "performance pads" on an LS 430... common now. I race cars and laugh at the money people spend on brake pads for their regular daily driver car... you aren't lapping your LS 430 around Road Atlanta and all you're doing is introducing the potential for noise and premature rotor wear. One warning, though, the Akebono pads don't include hardware so be careful with the existing hardware (which is okay to reuse if it's in good shape... don't worry about it). Just be super mindful of the little cotter pin that you need to keep and reinstall.

other then a RX300, 89 Foxbody Mustang, 85 Foxbody LTD, a F250 and a 1999 Mercury Mountaineer

Happy Independence Day All, Make It a Great One, Be safe and Enjoy This Beautiful Country.

I am having a difficult time wrapping my head around any All Electric cars. I get the feeling we are being duped into the belief that electricity is a cleaner and cheaper source of energy. I do of course get the concept but I also must look at the entire picture of where and how electricity is produced, transported and stored which brings us to the actual cost. IMO solar is a wonderful source but not yet up to the full time task where geographical and weather conditions come into play. Wind is also wonderful however when we consider all the costs to build from scratch, erect and maintain windmills it becomes just as costly or more costly than the fossil fuels required to build them. I am no expert here but I have read numerous accounts stating that windmills so far cannot produce enough energy to cover the return of investment over their lifetime. Both sources have their advantages and disadvantages, cleaner in some ways but often more costly when we look at the total picture of initial cost Vs return. An All Electric vehicle will not work here where I live with the high cost of electricity from the power company to my home. Replacing batteries in such vehicles is another daunting thought when they have reached their life expectancy. I think we seem to forget that all manufactured goods, no matter what, cars, computers, gadgets and just about everything else all begin in the ground and must be mined, transported, milled and smelted and this all takes fossil fuels and electricity at every step. Folks here are highly against windmills, solar farms, pipelines, electric transmission lines, cellular towers, and nuclear power generation plants. The complain about the rivers being dammed for Hydro power generation and in the very same breath they complain about high costs of energy, lack of cell service and internet connectivity for all their gadgets. I get the feeling those who are narrow minded expect all this stuff to simply fall from the sky. I have a continual and ongoing debate with a buddy who is an absolute climate activist, the type who thinks cows should be eliminated and all energy should be from renewable sources while he does drive a Prius he also wants milk in his coffee, Leather seats in his cars and SUVs and steak on his table. All electric vehicles are for sure coming along but they are a long way from refined enough to have one parked and plugged up in my driveway. I believe about 75% of all electricity is produced by fossil fuels at present and we have a long way to go for us to rely on other sources before we leave the oil, coal and gas in the ground.

Since the beginning of ownership, 4 months ago, my Lexus has been showing lights on the dash for: VSC, have checked by dealer Check engine Traction control off I would scan my car with your normal scan tool and it would read "camshaft position A actuator circuit". I ended up replacing both the sensor and solenoid on bank A. Neither of those things fixed the issue. $700 later, I replaced the timing control motor. More power, no lights and no issues. Passed inspection.

I get to drive my Lexus past my neighbors house while fixes his beamer (again).

I know this is an old thread but I dare write this for those who suffer and try to fix it inexpensively as a DIY job. Recently a friend of mine mentioned about Mark Levinson's amplifier and I posted this to the Clublexus. According to him, the popping/cracking/static noise is mostly caused by the oscillation of the voltage booster at the power supply block. All you need to do is just to replace worn electrolytic capacitors used there.

A few new pics in the sun. Quite a few updates including LED lighting inside and out and the LED yellow fog lights, and of course, the new wheels. Need to tweak ride height a little more, but nothing drastic. Loving this LS430 more and more every day, with 205k miles on the clock now.

Several Toyota models (e.g. Highlander, Sienna) used the same brake system that the 2010-2015 Lexus RX used - rotors, pads, everything. I don't remember about the RX but I do remember there being a service campaign that addressed brake disc warping and vibration on the generation 3 Sienna. I have a 2014 Sienna but mine never developed the problems. I did modify components under the vehicle that directed brake cooling airflow per the service bulletin "just in case". I've wondered why I've never had the problems reported by many others especially since my Sienna Limited is heavier than any Highlander or RX and likely stresses the brakes more. One reason might be because I've paid extremely close attention to lug nut torque. Uneven and/or over torquing lug nuts is a known common cause of brake rotor warping. The correct lug nut torque on the RX, Highlander, Sienna and most other vehicles manufactured by Toyota is only 76 ft. lbs. An air wrench should never be used to tighten these lug nuts and they should always be tightened with a manual torque wrench. I've had both Lexus and Toyota dealers tighten lug nuts to over 200 ft. lbs. on too many occasions. One service manager swore that his mechanics never used air wrenches on lug nuts but I then watched as one of his mechanics had to use an air wrench to remove the lug nuts that one of his mechanics had just over-tightened. I've learned to always check lug nut torque with my own torque wrench after someone else messes with my wheels. If I hadn't done that, I wouldn't have been able to change a flat tire on one trip. So ... my 2014 Sienna that has the same brake system as the 2012 RX and is on the original brake rotors and pads front and back at 94,xxx miles. Based on the wear rate, I'll have the original front and rear pads replaced at the same time and the original rotors turned at a little over 110,000 miles when the pads will by then be worn down to the 1 mm minimum specification. Yes, only 1 millimeter of pad thickness is the minimum specification for most Lexus and Toyota vehicles. 1 mm looks scary to the uninformed which is why so many people get scammed into premature brake work. On Lexus vehicles that have electronic brake pad were sensors, the low pad warning in the instrument cluster starts when a brake pad is worn down to about 1.5 mm. My recommendation is to buy a torque wrench if you don't already have one and check and re-torque lug nuts after each time someone removes and re-installs your wheels.

I have that level of tint on my 2002 ls430. The interior really does look pretty much new. It has 185k but looks like maybe 10k. It's a new car to me but the tint was on it when I bought it and I think it had to help keep it so nice.

Did something today...

Welcome to the Lexus Owners Club Charles! Pearl white is one of my fave colors.

Fixed!! This is the Idler Pulley which is only attached to the front of the water pump. This water pump is driven by an internal idler pulley that operates from the timing belt. The Pulley was $80.00 at Lexus dealer, and I changed along with new serpentine belt. Took all of 10-15 minutes. Thanks for all who helped!!