paulo57509

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paulo57509 last won the day on June 12 2015

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About paulo57509

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    Paul

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Lexus Model
    1998 LS400
  • Lexus Year
    1998
  1. Yes, definitely check the easy (cheap) stuff first. I've had good luck with Magnafow on both my '87 Camaro and '87 Acura Legend. I don't know if they offer "direct fit" units for the LS. Sometimes with high mileage vehicles, something like degrading/degraded tune or oil consumption could be poisoning the converters as is the case with my +440k mile Legend. You're lucky you live outside of CA which requires CARB certified replacements which only adds to the purchase price.
  2. I don't think it's a problem. The trunk lid on mine only pops up enough to clear the latch mechanism, leaving enough gap for my hand. I have to lift the lid the rest of the way manually.
  3. Could be a bad battery cable. Sometimes they corrode inside the insulation where you can't see it. It could also be a funky starter relay.
  4. DTC P1600 = ECM Battery Malfunction Essentially, the DTC is telling you that the ECM has lost the +12 volt supply. I don't have a '95 model year manual for reference, so I'm not going to tell you to start probing around with a volt meter. However, you can check the fuse panel and of there's a fuse labeled "EFI No. 1" and check to see if it's open (blown). You can try replacing it but keep in mind, you still need to determine why the fuse blew in the first place.
  5. Very nice find! But where did your tool kit pen light disappear to?
  6. I don't know how cost effective this is these days, but 4 or 5 years ago I purchased a 2-day subscription to Toyota Information Services. I don't know if this is the same site or not: https://techinfo.snapon.com/TIS/Register.aspx For two days (more than enough time) I downloaded the FSM's for my '98 LS400. I also downloaded any other publications that looked interesting. I did find a set of new FSM's on ebay for around $200, IIRC. But for the price of a subscription, it beats greasing up your hardbound manuals when you're under the hood or chassis. After downloading the manual sections, I took a few more days at the computer to organize the pages/sections. I've attached a sample. EM-15 Timing Belt - Removal.pdf
  7. New key programmng for '98-up models is a two step process. IIRC, you need to program the transponder before you can program the keyless entry. You need to have at least one pre-programmed key to program the transponder for the new key. Instructions are attached for those who need programming instructions. key programming.pdf keyless entry programming.pdf
  8. Like I posted on the "other" forum, it's not an Aisin kit. Read the "Item Specifics" section of that auction page.
  9. Reading through the 1998 factory service manual it looks like the following things need to removed in order to pull the carpet back. I would think it would be similar for a 1993 model. 1. Front door scuff (sill) plates. 2. The center air vents on the side of the center consoles. 3. Accellerator pedal. 4. Air ducts running under the front seats. 5. The lower hush panel above the passengerside footwell. It's strange that the service manual doesn't provide details on how to go about removing the this stuff. I did try to remove the drivers side sill plate on my car. I grabed the plate on the inside edge next to the carpet and lifted/rotated it up towards the outside of the car. I started at the rear and moved forward releasing the plate a little at a time. Once released it came off. The accelerator pedal was covered in an earlier post. I don't know about how to remove the center console vents. I would think a flat pry tool such as a putty knife would work to pop this out of its opening. The air ducts are fastened to the floor with one screw/bolt. You might have to remove the glove box to remove the lower hush panel. I can't open the passenger side door to my car enough the crawl under the dash - it's a tight fit in the garage and I was out there at 3AM doing a mock tear down.....
  10. You might want to check with your Lexus dealer on a replacement key. They'll probably need a key lock code number or something sililar. There might be a sticker applied to or a code written down someplace inside your owner's manual? The dealer might even have a "master" key set to remove the locks. At one time, GM used splined locking lug nuts and many dealerships used to have these key sets.
  11. Is the CEL, VSC or other warnings illuminated on intrument panel? Lots of things are tied into the VSC system; brakes, ABS, engine throttle, VVT-i...... I didn't read the entire VSC section in the FSM, but one of the simple things to check is for low brake fluid level as was preciously mentioned. This seems reasonable since your problem first started when there was side "G" loads such as high speed turns. Based on a quick general web search, some have indicted a dirty or bad oil control valve as the cause. This valve is part of the VVT-i system. But in these cases, the CEL and VSC warnings accompanied the warning sound.
  12. Is the oil pressure sending switch in that general area or is it near the oil filter?
  13. Look under the dash and under the steering column. On the hush panel near the foot well light you'll see a button. Pushing the button turns off the "beep" that sounds when you lock/unlock the doors with the remote. Push the button in and road test for a few days. See if the beeping stops. It might help in finding the source of the beeping (process of elimination). Push the button again to turn the lock/unlock beep back on.
  14. Just my opinion. YMMV..... I'm still a doubter when it comes to fluid changes followed closely with failure on high mileage transmissions. Even though it happened to me recently. The transmission had 131k miles on it and always had regular filter and fluid changes at 30k miles. The last time I did a fluid and filter change, I did a fluid exchange using the dillution method. 7000 miles later the 3-4 clutch pack burned up. 3-4 clutch pack failure is very common with this model transmission. I feel that when an AT transmission goes, it's going to go regardless of whether the fluid was/had been changed or not. This is something that cannot really be proved. "Do you feel lucky?" Edit: BTW, there is a distiction between a transmission flush (using cleaners/solvents) and just a fluid exchange (replacing old fluid with new). I would stay away from flushes. dilution calculator.xls
  15. I would try to find the lowest milage car in the model years you're interested in. LIke sha400 posted, I doubt there were any major changes between 1998 - 2000. I do like the HID headlights and the lack of an antenna mast. I also like the VVT-i as well. I would avoid the air suspension models based on other members having to deal with aging components.