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paulo57509 last won the day on July 30

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About paulo57509

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  1. You're welcome. The speedometer needle in my '98 sticks (rarely) depending on the ambient temperature. I have read elsewhere that the problem is the instrument lube that's used in the gauge heads get sticky with age. The only real fix is to remove the cluster and have an instrument repair shop deal with it. There is a chance that he gauge cluster might have a bad connection at the circuit board ribbon cables, etc.
  2. The speedometer speed sensor is attached to the transmission tail shaft housing on the diver's side If the speedometer needle reads zero but the odometer is still incrementing, it's not the speed sensor. The tachometer gets its signal from the ignition system. I don't know exactly it ties into the ignition.
  3. It could be the crankshaft position sensor has failed. Find it and check its resistance. These are specs for my '98; I don't know if it apples to your '96. Resistance (cold): 1,630 - 2,740 ohms Resistance (hot): 2,065 - 3,225 ohms Crankshaft position sensors are around $50 (aftermarket) if you just want to throw parts at it. If you do go this route, ask if you can return the sensor if it's uninstalled. Compare the resistance of the new vs. existing sensor under the same temperature conditions.
  4. Maybe I'm missing something but what is the actual problem you're having?
  5. You hear the motor running, so the switch is doing what it's supposed to be doing. I suspect your problem is with the regulator. You're going to have to remove the door panel to confirm.
  6. Thanks for closing the loop and posting your fix.
  7. This is a pretty general statement. What makes you think you have a fuel pump problem? Can you describe the symptoms?
  8. Sounds like access via the key is a no-go. That leaves the switch circuit. I have no easy fix. Hopefully, someone will have one for you. In the mean time.... Attached are the relative pages from my '98 FSM. I have no work around for not having the scan tool. DI-701 Body Control System - Luggage Opener Switch Circuit.pdf DI-703 Body Control System - Luggage Opener Motor Circuit.pdf DI-676 Body Control System - Problem Symptoms Table.pdf DI-720 Body Control System - Luggage Compartment Door Lock and Unlock Switch Circuit.pdf BE-140 Power Door Lock Control System - Inspection.pdf
  9. P/N 89661-50303 superceeds P/N's 8966150300; 8966150302; 8966150304 Your ECU may have been replaced. It depends on production date of your chassis and the date that the supercession of the part occurred. IOW, your chassis may have been in-process on the production line with the 50302 when the 50303 was put into production. Odds are that it was replaced at some point after production. I got the old service records from the local Lexus dealer for my car when I bought it used from Carmax in 2008. These records may some of your questions. Regardless, the ECU you want is the latest part number. It will have the most recent calibrations.
  10. Why are the lower control arms being replaced? Bushing wear? Fronts or rears? Are you the original owner or did you buy it used? Was it in a wreck? If you haven't done so already, you might get a more informed response by posting at the GS forum:
  11. The wiper/washer is controlled by the Body ECU. The wiper motor circuit diagram doesn't show any relays. If there are relays, they're probably inside the Body ECU box. What kind of problem are you having? DI-685 Body Control System - Wiper Motor Circuit.pdf BE-82 Wiper and Washer System - Location.pdf
  12. Yes, definitely check the easy (cheap) stuff first. I've had good luck with Magnafow on both my '87 Camaro and '87 Acura Legend. I don't know if they offer "direct fit" units for the LS. Sometimes with high mileage vehicles, something like degrading/degraded tune or oil consumption could be poisoning the converters as is the case with my +440k mile Legend. You're lucky you live outside of CA which requires CARB certified replacements which only adds to the purchase price.
  13. I don't think it's a problem. The trunk lid on mine only pops up enough to clear the latch mechanism, leaving enough gap for my hand. I have to lift the lid the rest of the way manually.