unknwn

I've decided to order the Nissen replacement due to those 'brag' indicators on the manufacturer's site. The upper/lower tank materials are touted as non-recycled material that is infused with a fiberglass admixture. The downflow heat transfer tubes are 'bragged-up' about the 5mm 'closeness' to their neighbors, versus 10mm as employed by all competitive products. There were several other manufacturing 'brag' aspects indicated, but I'd tend to believe that most all of that is quite similar to competitor's practices.

I bought and trimmed up a forward cabin set of WeatherTech cut-to-fit mats. They've served me well in this winter/slop season, and the weight/materials are impressive too!

The car ('01 RX) will before long be graced with enough parts maintenance to set it up for it's -next- quarter million miles+, and I figure that the 23 year old radiator has experienced -more than- it's fair share of heat stress. OE spec. (NOT Lexus parts counter, though) radiators from either Nissen, or Koyorad are very close in delivered cost. Would anyone out there with more experience than me make a recommendation between either of those manufacturers? I'm nearly steering toward the Nissen from several -brag- aspects on the manufacturer's site (tank materials, tube arrangement), but figured I'd run it past the Lexus group before I have one or the other sent from the warehouser.

I've been studying this aspect of the 1MZ-FE engine since I am gathering -everything- I'd ought to have for a top covers/manifold/cooling system -extreme- maintenance visitation to a 1/4 million mile RX300. My car does NOT exhibit KS codes (& related), but in all expectations that parts under the intake manifold are duly heat-stressed I am buying a genuine Toyo/Lex short cable and installing it along with the bypass hose & related parts. Since the KSs aren't problematic, I will trust the original Denso(?) parts with a refreshed signal cable. If I end up with a problem later, I will mount KSs externally, spoofing the ECU, saving all that money for the (nearly ALWAYs ignored!)valve clearance adjustments and myriad sealing components, high-end spark plugs, ect., ect. . To do a top cover/valve adjust/sealing parts maintenance cycle properly equates to -hundreds- of dollars of parts, and I think I'd rather spend money on an OE spec. radiator & hoses (Nissen(?)) than those KS that can be worked around in a non-smog inspection region.

I auditioned a dual filter carrier and sent it back once I inspected it and determined that it was largely 'eye-wash' (explaining adequately would take far too long, but basically, the filters weren't in series, and wouldn't be of any value other than taking up space, and instilling added capacity that wouldn't 'flow' nearly as effectively as one would figure (junk) ). I've been looking at other filter carriers since, and I think I've settled on a 'Summit' branded one that has ports arranged in such a way that including the cooler will allow for the shortest, and most straight-forward hose arrangement. It also has a large selection of filter types available to allow for space/capacity considerations. The filter bypass 'base' I've selected will allow a filter to be installed in the original position, but give me 'ports' that I'll be using with multi-braid covered hoses (stainless under/nylon over-braid) that have a .465" i.d. rubber/viton make-up & a allows for a variety of (mostly)AN8 fittings which are needed to be able to dismantle and remove the arrangement as might be required, they'll also allow ability to 'clock' the hoses as needed to avoid twisting & kinking. While I've been studying the -lack of space-, and types and variety of parts available I've determined that this won't be simple -by far- . Making a suitable bracket to hang the filter header, and cooler bank that won't look ignorant -or- slipshod has been a task in itself. The additional 1-1/2(+) qt of lubricant is leading to a need to incorporate an inline thermostat (I could have used a thermostat filter base-sandwich, but there were too many bad reviews, and I don't want to be reliant on a questionable oil supply configuration). Along with the thermostat (that will provide 'heat-up' pre-circulation, along with bleeding off 10-15% of over-all flow to keep the extra capacity full/cavitation free, and eliminate cold-shock of the lubricant supply) I think that installing a one-way valve to keep the added lubricant from possible drain-back and overcoming that crankcase oil height and result in oil puking out or hydraulic lock in the crankcase if a drain-back occurred somehow just MIGHT be in my best interests. I identified some parts that could be used for a -MUCH- simpler -just oil filter relocation- to get it out from it's original awful location if anyone were interested in some of the research. The whole 'deluxe' version I'm envisioning is nearly all conjecture at this point. I've been gathering a growing pile of components, and once I've got enough on hand (and worked out details-details(!) ) I'll be seeing if it's even possible due to space constraints, and I've also got to make it readily-removable for maintenance aspects. A project in development - pictures to follow, IF I'm able to make a 'go' of it . Over-all, a LOT more involved than -just- filter relocation (although -that- is highly valuable in it's own right). Many of the specialty parts and fittings were already on-hand, otherwise, the 'deluxe' project would never be able to be considered -affordable- in the 'big picture'.

Your battery needs to be -fully- charged, and only then can you depend on a diagnostic voltage reading. A battery at rest, with no draw, and after an adequate charge cycle -should- read 13.5 volts. A charging system, functioning normally, on an adequately charged battery -should- provide a reading of 14.5 volts at several thousand RPM. A Battery load test (using a carbon pile tester) will only provide a testing result of 'good' , on a battery that has received an adequate charging cycle. That aforementioned charging cycle -can- take many hours depending on how flat/discharged the battery, it's make-up, and the ultimate charging rate (slow is always better, the battery doesn't so easily suffer over heating).

There are -other- aspects- of engine geometry that will vastly affect how it performs, and when you mention that things changed -somewhat(?)- abruptly, then the solenoids (&-or-) sensors intimately involved in cam timing ought to be investigated, electrical resistance (and visible function of the solenoids) along with resistance & signal aspects of the sensor s can dramatically affect performance, discoloration of the plugs is another symptom I saw prior to a sensor issue. in-person and hands-on nearly always trumps interwebs forum opinions, -but- I've gone through some somewhat similar diagnostics since landing here, and my RX is better for my efforts.

Looking at the center electrode with a magnifier ought to help you discern whether the edges of the cylindrical area are 'sharp' 90 degree -or- rounded/worn. The fixed electrode (welded to the body of the plug (by the threads) are generally NOT iridium (except in the very highest cost versions), and will be an area that would likely exhibit erosion. If your well-enough off to feed it $100 of plugs (just because), then I wouldn't hesitate, but put your take-outs in the new boxes and store them somewhere out of the way. You might wish you had one day.

I was lurking on eBay, and came across this 'fix' for a problem that was being blamed on a solenoid. https://www.ebay.com/itm/273625443226 Made sense to me (I haven't taken things apart -yet-), and at $20 to -cure- 20+ years, 1/4 million miles, and very likely a zillion shifts, I bought one before the shifter protests irretrievably. As things are, the shifter has refused to move out of the 'park' position now & again, only co-operating -jf- the over ride button was depressed. Not all the time, but often enough that I suspected an intrinsic -mechanical- (rather than electro/mechanical(??) ) difficulty arising.

I'm considering this mod. to make the fluid capacity higher. The Summit racing website lists several kits that -might- be compatible (filter change-over on block -is- meant to be functional on the Toyota engine) but I still need to scrutinize the engine compartment closely to determine WHERE(?) the remote filter assembly could reside. If the filter carrier can mount acceptably, I'd also consider slipping a cooler in there somewhere too.

The print & video advertisements for Weather Tech that have made the media s since December 1st tout the 'Made in America' aspect of all their products. If I hadn't already been convinced by the exposure to the 1st rate sales job that their website, and the knowledgeable & personable telephonic sales woman, then the repeated 'Made in U.S.A.' - by Americans- messaging was enough for me to decide. I'll be heading out to the aforementioned dealer to order up a complete set + an extra pkg. of universal trim-to-fit that will get me the 2nd row one-piece, and a pair of front mats for the MX-5 too.

Read many product description pages about mats I intimated that I was interested in, and the only thing I've been convinced of by the offerings that I found was that I really wouldn't be satisfied by anything that wasn't beige in color (or resembling that hue), and that settling for slabs produced in china would be the only available for a reasonable price. There were also multiple turn-off factors apparent to each of the multiple offering all manufactured by a company called BDK, and marketed by several different brand markers, Then I came across the Weather Tech brand's All Weather floor mat offering. The mats were suggested by a phone rep., and are a semi-specific fitment. Molded in the United States with a proprietary mixture of rubbery material that touts a 'low stink' factor. Although I didn't care for the individual 2nd row mats, I was able to order -just- the driver/passenger foot well items separately, and that option turned into a $60 price tag when purchased through a -very- local (about 3 miles away) dealer in their recognized network that wasn't going to ding me with the exorbitant shipping fee schedule. The company's -matching color- trim-to-fit cargo mat product has a pronounced liquid-trapping surround rib, for a $50 price tag. These American production products have a higher-than-average combined shipping weight which indicates a thickness factor comparable to the most substantial chinese produced mats I found available. My -only- downside is that the company makes a 2nd row one-piece mat, but won't sell it separate from a complete set of a universal trim-to-fit 1st & 2nd row placement mat set. The Weather Tech signature laser-cut to specific fitment for the driver/passenger -ISN'T- available for an RX300, -but- that type of product -IS- produced for the 2nd row -AND- the cargo area mats, but has a price tag exceeding my tastes, (about $90 & $140 (+ shipping) respectively. Beyond my budget, and the cargo mat proved to be very constrictive for my pooch purposes.

"...to the revision ('01) models " I've since, found this revision on a '00 model I found in a boneyard.

But can you fault the aforementioned national franchise parts dealer's Lifetime (to an original purchaser) Replacement warranty? If you prefer the utter loyalty to the Original equipment manufacturer (Denso) so that you, as a customer, can expect their adherence to the 12 months replacement as described under the 'warranty', then your ONLY avenue is to -pay- the price -expected- to a recognized (by Denso -only!-) member of the fraternity as designated by Denso. That will cost 3-times (plus) as much for the part described as Denso on a website operated by Amazon -or- RockAuto,

The only DTC code I was presented while troubleshooting this 01 AWD was the Intake Air Temperature sensor as faulty. While investigating, I learned that IAT was an integral part to the MAF, and while performing testing I learned that the IAT thermistor does NOT pass muster. Everything I've learned indicates that this is absolutely important for proper ECU signaling and fuel injection system to function properly. I found and tested half a dozen in a bone yard, all deficient. This particular part number is used on a -raft- of different car brands/years/models. Replacement parts are readily available, but the pricing (and warrantee coverage) is all over the map (MAF heh-heh) from about $40, all the way up to -or- exceeding $200. And expect that for the high end cost, a name recognizable (Denso (?) ) part generally won't have warranty going past one year. I also learned, by trading messages with the Denso company, that they feel, unless you purchase from -their- recognized distribution network, for the -rather high- manufacturer's suggested retail pricing, that they aren't going to be overly concerned with any stated warranty that their replacement parts are touted to carry (so, forget Amazon, or RockAuto, the manufacturer doesn't recognize them as legitimate (!) ). So, I found that for about $100, AdvanceAuto will warranty THEIR house-brand MAF sensor ( -and- ignition coil-on- plug units) on a Limited Lifetime basis, to the original purchaser. Would a price/warrantee conscious consumer be best served buying the $100 unit, -or- get involved with the 1/2-of-that circus for what is ultimately a part that is imperative for proper function of the vehicle? Oh, something else I learned by quizzing the folks at Denso, is that you needn't expect that your genuine Denso product is any longer necessarily going to be manufactured in the United States (as nearly ALL of their stuff had been for a LONG time), or -preferably- Japan, but could/might/(who's to say ?) be sourced in CHINA now. I initially discerned this on the Amazon product page, where Country of Origin for Denso branded coils -plainly- showed CoA as China, but had that -utter let down- verified by the response I received straight from the representative's keyboard at Denso themselves. It looks like the -ONLY- way you can expect to get -THAT- part sourced/produced by a genuine Japanese manufactory is to spend the high-end (nearly $200 -or more!) for a Hitachi unit, and even THAT won't get you any better than a 12 month warranty. I'd prefer to not buy $35 parts for $100, and periodically rattle the cages at AdvanceAuto for warrantied parts, but, how can a person realize any other suitable option for this racket/go-around?