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  1. 2 points
    It could be a good opportunity if you really want an LS 500 and especially if you plan to keep it a long time. You might be able to negotiate a even lower price based on the vehicle's history. I read recently that there are still a lot of unsold new 2018 LS 500's so the market for them is apparently very soft. Other than its run-flat tires and no spare tire, my main problem with the LS 500 is the shrinking interior which now has a volume within a tenth of a cubic foot of the space of a 2019 Toyota Camry with its optional moonroof. The Camry we rented 6 weeks ago was actually roomier than an LS 500 since the rental Camry didn't have a moonroof. Of course, Toyota/Lexus is too ashamed of it to publish interior volume dimensions for the LS 500 so it's necessary to go elsewhere to find them: https://cars.usnews.com/cars-trucks/lexus/ls/2018/specs/ls-awd-398085 Lexus LS 500 - Passenger Volume (cu. ft.): 99.4 Toyota Camry (with moonroof) - 99.3 cu. ft. per https://www.toyota.com/content/ebrochure/2019/camry_ebrochure.pdf I know the luxury sedan market has shrunk due to the flight to SUV's but I never expected the Lexus LS interior to shrink.
  2. 2 points
    Trevor, Thanks for the info. You were correct, I had not connected the temp sender wire. It is a bugger of a thing to locate and even more difficult to fit the connector when the entire loom is in situ. The sender unit is tucked in behind the plastic spark plug channel. Done now, so everything is fine. Thanks again, Alan.
  3. 2 points
    I discovered this article today, thanks to a member at ClubLexus. I went and made a scan of my copy, thanks to his discovery. I don't suppose it would hurt to post it here:
  4. 2 points
    Thanks for the posting! We always like new information. Paul
  5. 2 points
    Hi Nathan. I apologize for not connecting with you sooner. I am always amazed at the depth of friendship and caring that can be built with someone you have never met nor never knew what they looked like. The LOC is a place where those who enjoy their hobby can find others who like swapping stories with like minded friends. Landar was a great part of the LOC and was a great source of Lexus info and technical help. Thank you for letting us share your journey. Paul
  6. 2 points
    Incredible shots Steve!!. Looks like a wonderful trip.
  7. 2 points
    Hey guys i made a small video on how to replace the plastic coolant tees that get brittle with age and can crack / leak / break / leave you stranded. Its a fairly straight forward process, everything is covered in the video from tools to parts. If you have any questions let me know. Parts needed for this job: (1) Gallon of coolant - PN# 00272-1LLAC-01 (2) Coolant Tees - PN# 87248-60460 Optional, highly recommended parts for this job: (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A220 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A210 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A190 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A180 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A800 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 99556-20155
  8. 2 points
    I have NO connection with this automobile.... just showing others JDM RHD TOYOTA CELSIOR VIP SEDAN V8 LS400 JAPAN IMPORT TEXAS TITLE look: https://easttexas.craigslist.org/cto/6180839156.html
  9. 2 points
    I made the DIY because I couldn't find one specifically for the RX330. Lexus also apparently think no RX330 owner would ever change their own oil because they don't tell you how to locate the oil dilter and drain plug in the owner's manual. I hope others find this useful. Please comment. I have a 2004 RX330 and after 23,000 miles, I've decided I'm going to do minor maintenance myself. You'll need: - 5qts of 5w-30 oil - oil filter (see info below) - drain plug gasket (see info below) - 10mm socket wrench - 14mm socket wrench - oil catch container - oil filter wrench (I used the nylon strap which seems pretty versitile) - either jack stands or ramps - funnel - rags to soak up dripping oil Part numbers: Lexus parts: 90430-12031 - Gasket Oil Drain Plug 90915-YZZD1-01 - Oil Filter - 6 Cylinder Toyota equivalent: 904-3012028 or 3012031 drain plug gasket $1.04 089-2202011 oil filter $4.99 1) Jack up the front of your car on stands or use ramps. The RX330 weighs 3850 lbs so make sure your ramps/stands can handle it. You might be able to get away without raising it if you slide on the floor, but it's tight. 2) Pop your hood and unscrew off the oil cap. I stuck a yellow funnel in mine. Notice the yellow dip stick on the left. 3) Lexus put some cosmetic plastic panels to make the "less car savy" believe the car is a magic transportation pod with no ugly mechanical internals. You'll need to remove two of them to access the filter and drain plug. The orange highlight is the panel that hides the filter, and the purple arrow shows where the panel that hides the drain plug is. 4) Get under the car to look for the drain plug panel (purple arrow in above picture). The panel will look like this. Remove all the 10mm bolts. 5) With the panel removed, the drain plug is revealed. Get a 14mm socket wrench and loosen the bolt. Position your oil catch container and remove the bolt. Lexus engineers did good.. they designed the bolt angle so the oil shoots down instead of to the side. Very nice. Remove the drain plug bolt AND its gasket. If the gasket is not on the bolt, it's probably still stuck to the oil pan. Remove the gasket and discard. 6) As the oil is draining, work on removing the panel to the oil filter (orange). Remove all the 10mm bolts (red arrows). 7) There are two plastic clips (green arrows) also holding this panel on. Using a flathead screwdriver, carefully pry up the center part of the clip just a little. This will loosen the clip and the whole clip can be pulled out. 8) Pull off the panel. The other panels will be overlapped over it, but they flex enough to allow you to remove it. This is what it looks like without the panel. 9) After the oil is done draining, put the new gasket on the bolt and replace the bolt. Tighten the bolt for a good seal but don't over tighten. I don't know the official torque yet. Wipe up the oily bolt. UPDATE: I got the Lexus service info... Torque the drain plug to 33ft-lbs (45Nm, 459 kgf-cm) 10) With the panel off, you can now see the oil filter (orange) and a nice gift from the Lexus engineers: an oil catch (green). Loosen the filter, and residual oil will drip out. The oil catch will guide the dripping oil out the oilpan/drainplug panel so position your oil catch below the catch. 11) On the new filter, dab a layer of fresh oil on the O-ring (the rubber ring around the outer lip of the open end of the filter). Align the threads of the new filter and spin it by hand onto the engine where the old filter was. When it makes contact, tighten by hand another 3/4 turn. Don't over tighten. 12) Wipe up oil drips. For me, even though the catch was there, some oil still dripped all over the exhaust pipe and panels. Wipe this up. 13) Fill the engine with 5w-30 oil, 5 qts. A funnel is helpful here. 14) Replace oil cap. 15) Replace both plastic panels. 16) Shut hood and drive around the block. Park the car on level ground and wait 15 minutes. Check for leaks and oil level. I hope this is helpful to someone. ...
  10. 2 points
    We recently purchased a new 2017, Lexus RX350 and love it. Selling our original, one owner, 1994, LS400, with 88,000 miles. This superior designed and built, Generation 1 Lexus has been faithful to us as we have been faithful to it. We loved it and still love it. Its new owner will be blessed with full maintenance documentation and records from DAY ONE and any responses to any questions regarding its history will leave our hands with full disclosure of only "the truth". We would not hesitate to keep it and insure it with Hagerty Insurance as a "modern classic", BUT we do not have the room. If it should not sell to the right appreciative and discriminating buyer of this superior condition Lexus, we may have to make room! It is in truly excellent condition and will serve its new owner well. An ad is posted with www.ClassicCars.com. Go to the ad directly from Classic Car's front page by entering "979779" in the "cc-" prompt where indicated. Please do not hesitate to contact me with any further questions at woodman486@kc.rr.com.
  11. 1 point
    All prices are local. See what similar cars are selling for in your area. KBB private party sale value where I live in the Midwest for a 2001 LS UL in that color with that mileage in Good condition is between $4,916 and $7,245 which I think is unrealistically high. A 2006 LS UL with similar miles in a more desirable color with the optional PCS/DRCC package could bring $10K to $13K here if it is in KBB Good condition. It's a shame these cars aren't worth more but there isn't much demand for old Lexus sedans - even originally expensive ones.
  12. 1 point
    Use your hand to pound on top of the instrument cluster will do the trick. It happened to my 96 two years ago. After pounding three or four times every few days in the morning, the problem went away, don't know when it will come back but that was a temporary fix.
  13. 1 point
    Welcome to the club. First you need to check and make sure the battery is good. If it's good then with that amount of miles it's a good bet that the starter has died.
  14. 1 point
    I bought the Polk Audio DB840 8" replacement speaker that is named in youtube videos about replacing the Mark Levinson subwoofer. There is some discussion about replacing a Mark Levinson speaker with an aftermarket speaker. I went with the Polk($54.00) and it sounds fine. Does is sound as good? I couldn't say because before I replaced the ML blown subwoofer I didn't think to study up on the quality of the sound. I installed the Polk and it sounds fine, maybe great. That's very subjective. But it does sound like a high quality and working speaker system. Interesting comment is that the price of the Mark Levinson is in the design and not the hardware. Old ML speaker weighs much less than the Polk but does not seem to have any distinguishing or different features. Thus end that debate for me. Polk ($54.00 ) vs. ML(used -$300.00 - minimum) R&R pretty simple. if by the time you read this , youtube videos still around, they can walk you thru it. One video has you removing rubber ring around new Polk speaker, one has you keeping it. I kept it and modified plastic bracket that goes BELOW speaker and allows speaker to seat properly on car deck.. This is the bracket that screws onto your rear deck . I secured this bracket with 3 little screws drilled into the plastic. Don't let these screws be too long as they will hit metal rear decking of car. Otherwise any little screw will suffice. The other bracket that is attached to ML assembly is no longer needed. to restate: you throw away one of 2 ML brackets and use only the bracket which screws into car rear deck. drill new holes thur existing holes in Polk speaker and into plastic bracket to secure speaker to this bracket. I only used 3 screws. Like someone said this will only be critical if you roll the car. I don't know the electronics theory but I followed instructions for 'shorting' voice mail coil. Why do that , I don't know? Does it have to be done, I don't know either? Its simple though. Get some wire crimpers and connectors and some short speaker wire and get after it. It took me around 3 hours. if I knew what I was doing , under 2 easy . Seat removal is simple. However when you start removing and reinstalling trim which is seated with those plastic punch pins, It gets a little frustrating. It is of course not automatic that you can line up pins with holes in car's sheet metal.
  15. 1 point
    Hey guys, Im new here, my name is Blake and am looking for some advise for the following. My dad owns this 1998 GS400: He has been the owner since new, passed it along to my brother, who dropped it and put the wheels on it. And now its back in my fathers hands and he has been looking to do something with the interior. Mainly replace the front seats for lower milage units or something, but I was at the junk yard looking for some Audi gear, and stumbled across a 430 with near perfect black interior. I've always hated the GS steering wheel, because there is no wood grain on it, and the emblem is just plain. but the 430s steering wheel is beautiful on top of being black. I can acquire the entire interior for $375USD, pretty much anything that is black. I'm no stranger to interior swaps, steering wheels coding, motor pulls, etc, but mainly with Audis. I am aware that it will take a lot of time and patience and to spend this amount of effort like this on an old Lexus is not everyones cup of tea. But its always a good time bonding with the father. My questions are primarily the air bags. I read about the single stage vs dual stage. I am a little unfamiliar with the Lexus electronics. In the Audi world, guys simply wire up the high speed impact to the single stage signal. Not at all what I do, nor want to do here. Its been proven to work in Audis, but still not a risk I take with my Audis, nor my fathers car. I figure for the steering column, I will only be swapping the shrouds, and will still be left with the dilemma of single to dual. I would prefer to keep the from having to purchase a complete RX wheel and air bag which is almost the cost of the swap. Can the air bag covers be modified/swapped? What about the rest of the air bags, like the one in the dash, the seats, does anyone know if they are all compatible? Or is the whole 430 a completely different animal? Thanks guys!
  16. 1 point
    The service consultant called and stated they got approval to replace both door actuators, which they had in stock, and he is finishing up the paperwork. I asked if I was going to have a problem with the rear and he said "they don't get cycled as much as the front." I told him I guess we will jump off that bridge if we get to it and he laughed. The Lexus gods were good to me.
  17. 1 point
    Yup, just give them time. They'll break through the main market scene soon enough.
  18. 1 point
    Hi Trevor, Thanks. Here's a pic of my new pride and joy. I'm familiar with TRD, just not that particular website, so I was curious if anyone had any experience and could confirm it's not a place that's just going to steal my money 🙂 Thanks for the link to the UK site! Will check it out tonight. Chris
  19. 1 point
    Oh wow! a fascinating country to visit....make sure you post up some photos, especially if you visit the Lexus factory
  20. 1 point
    The world of lifting RX vehicles is still pretty small so there aren't exactly any definitive guides but like any other strutted vehicle the same limitations in tire/wheel fitment would apply. The first limitation on my 300 was the rear spring perches because they are squattier than the fronts. Side clearance of the spring perch will limit how tall and wide of a tire you can fit without modification or for a certain offset/spacer. The next limitation for me was rubbing when turned full clock, not acceptable to me and I was able to fit mine with no rubbing. The taller and wider the tire the turning clearance is greatly reduced, its geometry but you can figure it out with a straight edge. Clock the wheels and take a straight edge across the inside sidewalls to the nearest obstruction and you can measure how much taller of a tire will fit without rubbing but leave some cushion. The closest point of the tire should be at the horizontal axis of the tire but make sure you look at fender clearances as well. Just take your time and measure everything until you are absolutely sure your fitment is what you want. You could also likely take it to a custom shop and they should be able to measure or use a jig to tell you what you can and can't fit. I would not recommend bringing the tire tread up past the bottom of the spring perch. If you do and you do not have ample clearances you can easily slash your sidewalls. If you are sticking with stock suspension the steering changes shouldn't be as drastic but just be ready for it to handle differently. I have not had to trim anything for mine and do not have anything rub except when I have 300-400 extra pounds in it and the suspension takes a really hard hit, mostly the rear where the outside tread just catches the lip of the fender. I need a little more travel or slightly stiffer springs in the rear. I think I am also running a larger wheel spacer than necessary (2"). Same thing for the front but don't hit the fender lip unless it is a really really hard suspension hit and I am turning. There is enough travel and clearance in the front if I am going straight over that really hard hit. I do not rub on the inside of the tire when turning but it is the outside front of the tire that hits the fender liner. That is only because it was a cheap aftermarket liner I was in a hurry to get in there to get some protection for my trans cooler before a trip. I had to cut the vents into the plastic and they puckered out into the wheel well so the tire catches them. I need to reinstall it so it fits correctly and likely make a little aluminum plate/grill for the vent slots so that doesn't happen. ***Edit- Brickwall says you have springs and shocks on the rear of yours and not a strut so that makes it a lot easier. You are then pretty much limited by the strut and turning clearance of the front then,
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    Hey all! First post here, so I accidentally purchased this incredible 1998 LS 400 with 54K original miles. This isn't exactly a for sale ad, as I'm sure you'd all be happy to take a look at my new car - HOWEVER, the purchase was technically a mistake... Seeing as this was purchased sight unseen - I'm pretty happy with it's incredible condition! It is a California car, now in North Jersey and the timing belt was done at 48K miles.
  23. 1 point
    There is an initialization procedure for those trunks, I can try to find it for you if you'd like, it may be in your owners manual.
  24. 1 point
    There appears to be a gap in your chronology of events. When you had the vehicle towed, to where was it taken? What was the code that caused the check engine light to illuminate? Did the code indicate a problem with the water pump? A bad water pump would probably not cause the engine to die. Water pumps are often replaced when the timing belt is replaced. Do you have maintenance receipts that would indicate if these services were done? Coolant leakage into the engine is often due to a cylinder head gasket leak. As long as the engine hadn't overheated long enough to damage the cylinder head, the gasket(s) can be replaced at far less cost than an engine rebuild/replacement. Sometimes the size of the coolant leak would determine how prevalent the coolant smell is. A coolant test can be performed to see if combustion gasses are present. First, determine for certain whether you have a head gasket leak. If you don't, what is causing the drop in coolant level. Second, if one or more coils are bad, have them all replaced. If you delay this too long, your catalytic converter may be damaged from unburned fuel.
  25. 1 point
    I bought a 2002 and that was my first question for the dealer. He said it was not an option but there had been many requests. I asked him why there was a rounded indention in the trunk. His answer at the time was that in some countries a spare tire was required, but in the U.S. the decision was made not to offer a spare and fit the car with the new "run flat" tires. I bought a nice battery rechargeable air pump and it has been in the car ever since.
  26. 1 point
    One of your driven devices is freezing up. ie the alternator, power steering pump, air conditioning compressor, or one of the idlers. Before putting belt on spin each to make sure they are free. I would suspect the air conditioning compressor when energized is the culprit.
  27. 1 point
    I have a 2005 RX330, I got a recall on cracked dashboard and took the car to a local dealer to confirm. That was September 2015. I was told to wait 2-3 months to get the part in then they will call me. I called the dealer 3 month later, they told me to wait due to back order. I called them a few months later, a year later, and now about 17 months, they still tell me to wait. I wonder other Lexus owners have same experience and how long they wait to get the cracked dashboard replacement. There are more cracks and getting more ugly. I think waiting this long is not reasonable. What choice I have besides waiting indefinitely?
  28. 1 point
    Hi Trevor, It feels like this market will remain fluid for sometime yet. In the US I think that one of the factors for this market are the need to meet ongoing mandates for pollution emission, fuel economy and safety regulations. I'm pleased that the major makes are taking the lead for these technical challenges. Here in Des Moines a few of the downtown parking ramps have installed just a few electrical charging stations. I wonder who will pick up the tab to install many more connections. Some time ago I read an article that said Hawaii had begun testing hydrogen fuel cell cars and the experience of recharging our changing empty cells at a retrofited Paul
  29. 1 point
    Hello Fellow Lexus Fans, Here is my update on the steering rack replacement and thanks again for all your support. The replacement was fairly straight forward. The trouble spots were: 1. A frozen bolt on passenger tie rod end (didn't matter because I was replacing the TREs anyway). 2. Once I had the rack fully disconnected and clamps removed, there wasn't enough room to slide the rack out so I had to jack up the tranny housing an inch or two to widen the gap between the rack supports and the tranny housing. 3. I didn't like the look of the ESC part and wires from the rebuilt rack so I swapped it out from my old one which looked in better shape and had OEM wires/connector which saved me some solder time as well. 4. Those hydraulic bolts were very difficult to remove and even harder to reinstall (with old washers which worked well....Thanks Lexus!!!). That area was very tight and hand cramped often as I tried to get the bolts to thread back onto new rack while wrestling with the hydraulic lines that didn't want to sit in their proper position. After about three hours and too many exclamation points to count, the job was done and rack was refilled and bled with Dextron VI (about 3/4 or a quart was all it took). Thanks again for all your support. Look forward to sharing my next challenge with the team, John
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
    awesome video you have there, pal
  32. 1 point
    Thanks Trevor, I really like them as well. Bums me out so many people don't upgrade wheels these days anymore, but I still have to have big wheels on the rides....:) Thanks again!
  33. 1 point
    You might be able to connect into the back of your mirror without having to go into your overhead console. I have a RX350 so I went into the overhead console. You will have to determine what works best for your model or find out what others did.
  34. 1 point
    Ignition caps and rotors (and wires) are a bit of a pain to do after the TB job, but not impossible. The biggest hassle is getting to the bolts that hold the plastics on at the front side of the engine. For the wheel locks, look in the tool kit inside the trunk. It has its own spot for it with the tool kit. If you have the owners manual set, look through for wheel lock info. McGard in NY State still makes replacement wheel lock keys if you have the key code, and you can order one from them. Maybe consider a second one to keep with your tools at home and as a back up--they're inexpensive. Otherwise, the one time I had to get the wheel lock off without they key, I hammered a large socket (7/8"?) over the whole tapered lug nut, then was able to remove with a 1/2" breaker bar. Stock headlights on the early cars are pretty horrid. A lot of it has to do with the stock bulb 9004 fitment ('93-94 cars went to an 9003/H4). The rest of it has to do with the optics of the headlight, itself. I switched to a set of clear-style headlights made by Eagle Eyes (bought them a few years back online); H4 lamp (you'll need to convert or adapt your connector), good optics, giving off a decent impression of a proper E-code beam pattern. '93-'94 cars have slightly better stock headlights, and might be worth trying out if you can get them cheaply enough in the junkyard. For the rest of your electrical maladies, if there's an electrical section in your shop manuals, start there.
  35. 1 point
    Thanks Celsi0r Ok . So another day done. New fuel pump and filter installed as the old one literally looked 25 years old..Replaced the circuit open relay and viola. She sprang to life. SOunds good, runs good..A little fumey but thats to be expected for something that has sat for so long. This celsior only has 95000 kms on the clock. I let it idle for a while and she began to hunt ever so slightly. So there are still some issues here. I will clean the iacv and throttle body/ Ill see whats up soon enough.
  36. 1 point
    I'm happy to be a member on this site. Looks like a great forum here with usefull tips. I drive a 2014 Lexus IS 300h. Thanks for letting me join. christian
  37. 1 point
    Hi John and welcome! We have a 2016 RX and have about 6500 miles on it. We love the crossover size and the interior is way cool. Even the mpg is not bad. On interstate driving we've gotten close to 30 mpg. I've had 3. ES350's and you defiantly do not get the smooth and quiiiet ride of the ES. I have found that over time, I have adjusted to the bumps and stiffer suspension. By the way, the RX350 is the best selling car that Lexus product.
  38. 1 point
    I also own a white 2008 Lexus GX 470 that has paint chipping on two sides of the car. Has anyone had luck with Lexus addressing the issue? It seems so many people have had chipping on the white GX 470.
  39. 1 point
    After drinking my complimentary coffee. I asked the parts department lady if I can discuss the car with the techs. she says "sure, go out to talk to them" . one old schooler is in the car, with the diagnostics machine. running codes. with two lads looking on. i tell them about when it failed. and asked if it was a fault with the rear sensors? like water might have gotten into it? we took it over to the pit. where the problem was found. the lad in the pit held the sensor in "low", so the car would raise, then put it back on the lift to assess the damage. One of the brackets for the height sensor had clean snapped off. causing it to always think it was up. when in fact it was down. they sell the whole assembly (including suspension arm, actuator arm,sensor) for $500. i asked, can't we just tack this on with a MIG welder? lads agreed. $0 or $500. haha, they get paid hourly. and the consultation is free. so they were happy to explore the mysteries of the LS400/Celsior air suspension. tacking the bracket back on. but what caused it to snap? making the whole rear of the car fail? These actuator arms. both Left and Right had seized up. at both ends. not only causing the sensors to act up. but placing tension on the brackets because they have no movement. But why would i want to pay $1,000 for a whole kit (left and right), when it's just these 9.5cm rods with ball joints on the end,6mm thread, and 10mm nuts? when i could buy these adjustable ones...... fully adjustable links from the headlight assembly in the later Gen Celsiors/LS400's. strong enough for the load bearing needed. and fully adjustable to set the sensor height at whatever height i choose? (drop 2 inches) meaning i can run stock setup at a custom height? no brainer. @ $30 a piece. And for all their help? i didn't pay a cent. Big thanks to the lads at the Toyota Dealership. and the parts lady. they were patient. adventurous. and let me get involved. a fun time was had. - they understand that some parts i will buy used, or aftermarket. and some new parts from them . Excellent people. Thumbs up Toyota, you guys are awesome.
  40. 1 point
    yeah, changed them. like night and day. only at a cost of $100 had an indicator fail before roadworthy testing. must be an earthing issue. as others have found. the only issues with these cars is maintenance.
  41. 1 point
    Steven, thanks much for posting that link! Many 'play' both forums and forget to post the solution back to one of them. This will keep things in sync as to this particular problem.
  42. 1 point
    no rubbing issues ? I want to do a 245/45/18 on a 18x8 35offset rim cant seem to find any info as to fitment most tire websites suggest 235/45/18 any input from any would be appreciated.Thanks
  43. 1 point
    I always think heater core. Does the water have a smell?
  44. 1 point
    Replaced the Y pipe. Almost one month and no more problems.
  45. 1 point
    Good point, Micah. I guess I view the TB/WP as "tinkering" with the car but that somewhat trivializes the job. It does go beyond a standard tinker which is probably an oil change or serp belt change. Now, walts car, being a 93, would not be destroyed if he did something wrong with the timing. Yours, however, being a 99, might sustain some damage. On the flip side, doing your own work is a tremendous "confidence booster". It will boost your self-confidence in that what you set out to accomplish, with due diligence and attention to detail, you can successully complete. My son and I just got done replacing a head gasket, timing belt and water pump on a 92 ES300. I had never removed the heads on an side-mounted overhead cam engine before and he had only changed oil in a car. But I looked upon the job as a tremendous learning experience and confidence booster for him as a young man. I taught him how to research the project, how to bag the bolts, label connectors, vacuum lines and take lots of pictures. He performed the brunt of the work under my supervision. When he got stuck or discouraged, I came alongside and helped. The job is completed now and he has a beautifully running ES300 to drive around. For me, mission accomplished. No, not the head gasket, TB/WP. The mission of instilling greater confidence in a young man. And that it did. He is now "unafraid" to rip into it. The confidence then spills over into other areas of his life. The monetary savings ain't too bad either! ;)
  46. 1 point
    For anyone looking at this thread Metra finally made a dash kit. They have wiring harnesses as well. I will Post a link to the site so you can get the product numbers. I would recommend just typing in the numbers and find the parts on Amazon or Sonicelectronics. They are much cheaper there than at a best buy or retail store. If the link doesn't work just go to Metraonline.com Good Luck! Hope this helps http://metraonline.com/vfg
  47. 1 point
    how did you deal with the plastic cover? did you remove it completely or did you drill a hole to run the kit's wires through?
  48. 1 point
    The noise is always there. But it is loudest when first starting the car. You have the standard engine noise that everyone expects. This noise is above and beyond standard engine noise. I use the remote starter in the morning and I can hear that buzzing/whining noise from inside the house. It is not a deafening noise, but it just is not what I expect from a Lexus. The sound sort of sounds like a car that is low on power steering fluid. It is really annoying...... The noise is loudest in the area of the oil pan on the passenger side of the vehicle. If anyone else has a RX450H and can listen to my recording, I would be interested if they hear the same type of noise.
  49. 1 point
    Hi - just wanted to thank blue06gs for the great bypass for dvd and dialing. only took bout an hour goin slow and it works absolutely perfect. no one should be hesistant to try this bypass. good luck and thanks!
  50. 1 point
    Well, this won't be much help, but for what's it's worth, I'm having the same problem on my '92, except the light won’t go off (meaning trac control won't come on). Similar to your problem, my switch does not click or appear to engage. When I asked the dealer about it at a recent visit, they informed me the “Trac Accumulator” (which I gather is the brains behind the system) had gone bad and I needed a new one at a cost of about $800. I passed. Would be curious to know if you find a fix though. Good luck!


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