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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/27/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    The general rule is that if a repair or repairs within a short period of time are equal to or greater than 50% of the value of the car, then it may be time to buy a replacement vehicle.
  2. 2 points
    It could be a good opportunity if you really want an LS 500 and especially if you plan to keep it a long time. You might be able to negotiate a even lower price based on the vehicle's history. I read recently that there are still a lot of unsold new 2018 LS 500's so the market for them is apparently very soft. Other than its run-flat tires and no spare tire, my main problem with the LS 500 is the shrinking interior which now has a volume within a tenth of a cubic foot of the space of a 2019 Toyota Camry with its optional moonroof. The Camry we rented 6 weeks ago was actually roomier than an LS 500 since the rental Camry didn't have a moonroof. Of course, Toyota/Lexus is too ashamed of it to publish interior volume dimensions for the LS 500 so it's necessary to go elsewhere to find them: https://cars.usnews.com/cars-trucks/lexus/ls/2018/specs/ls-awd-398085 Lexus LS 500 - Passenger Volume (cu. ft.): 99.4 Toyota Camry (with moonroof) - 99.3 cu. ft. per https://www.toyota.com/content/ebrochure/2019/camry_ebrochure.pdf I know the luxury sedan market has shrunk due to the flight to SUV's but I never expected the Lexus LS interior to shrink.
  3. 2 points
    Trevor, Thanks for the info. You were correct, I had not connected the temp sender wire. It is a bugger of a thing to locate and even more difficult to fit the connector when the entire loom is in situ. The sender unit is tucked in behind the plastic spark plug channel. Done now, so everything is fine. Thanks again, Alan.
  4. 2 points
    I discovered this article today, thanks to a member at ClubLexus. I went and made a scan of my copy, thanks to his discovery. I don't suppose it would hurt to post it here:
  5. 2 points
    Thanks for the posting! We always like new information. Paul
  6. 2 points
    Hi Nathan. I apologize for not connecting with you sooner. I am always amazed at the depth of friendship and caring that can be built with someone you have never met nor never knew what they looked like. The LOC is a place where those who enjoy their hobby can find others who like swapping stories with like minded friends. Landar was a great part of the LOC and was a great source of Lexus info and technical help. Thank you for letting us share your journey. Paul
  7. 2 points
    Incredible shots Steve!!. Looks like a wonderful trip.
  8. 2 points
    Hey guys i made a small video on how to replace the plastic coolant tees that get brittle with age and can crack / leak / break / leave you stranded. Its a fairly straight forward process, everything is covered in the video from tools to parts. If you have any questions let me know. Parts needed for this job: (1) Gallon of coolant - PN# 00272-1LLAC-01 (2) Coolant Tees - PN# 87248-60460 Optional, highly recommended parts for this job: (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A220 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A210 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A190 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A180 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A800 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 99556-20155
  9. 2 points
    I have NO connection with this automobile.... just showing others JDM RHD TOYOTA CELSIOR VIP SEDAN V8 LS400 JAPAN IMPORT TEXAS TITLE look: https://easttexas.craigslist.org/cto/6180839156.html
  10. 2 points
    I made the DIY because I couldn't find one specifically for the RX330. Lexus also apparently think no RX330 owner would ever change their own oil because they don't tell you how to locate the oil dilter and drain plug in the owner's manual. I hope others find this useful. Please comment. I have a 2004 RX330 and after 23,000 miles, I've decided I'm going to do minor maintenance myself. You'll need: - 5qts of 5w-30 oil - oil filter (see info below) - drain plug gasket (see info below) - 10mm socket wrench - 14mm socket wrench - oil catch container - oil filter wrench (I used the nylon strap which seems pretty versitile) - either jack stands or ramps - funnel - rags to soak up dripping oil Part numbers: Lexus parts: 90430-12031 - Gasket Oil Drain Plug 90915-YZZD1-01 - Oil Filter - 6 Cylinder Toyota equivalent: 904-3012028 or 3012031 drain plug gasket $1.04 089-2202011 oil filter $4.99 1) Jack up the front of your car on stands or use ramps. The RX330 weighs 3850 lbs so make sure your ramps/stands can handle it. You might be able to get away without raising it if you slide on the floor, but it's tight. 2) Pop your hood and unscrew off the oil cap. I stuck a yellow funnel in mine. Notice the yellow dip stick on the left. 3) Lexus put some cosmetic plastic panels to make the "less car savy" believe the car is a magic transportation pod with no ugly mechanical internals. You'll need to remove two of them to access the filter and drain plug. The orange highlight is the panel that hides the filter, and the purple arrow shows where the panel that hides the drain plug is. 4) Get under the car to look for the drain plug panel (purple arrow in above picture). The panel will look like this. Remove all the 10mm bolts. 5) With the panel removed, the drain plug is revealed. Get a 14mm socket wrench and loosen the bolt. Position your oil catch container and remove the bolt. Lexus engineers did good.. they designed the bolt angle so the oil shoots down instead of to the side. Very nice. Remove the drain plug bolt AND its gasket. If the gasket is not on the bolt, it's probably still stuck to the oil pan. Remove the gasket and discard. 6) As the oil is draining, work on removing the panel to the oil filter (orange). Remove all the 10mm bolts (red arrows). 7) There are two plastic clips (green arrows) also holding this panel on. Using a flathead screwdriver, carefully pry up the center part of the clip just a little. This will loosen the clip and the whole clip can be pulled out. 8) Pull off the panel. The other panels will be overlapped over it, but they flex enough to allow you to remove it. This is what it looks like without the panel. 9) After the oil is done draining, put the new gasket on the bolt and replace the bolt. Tighten the bolt for a good seal but don't over tighten. I don't know the official torque yet. Wipe up the oily bolt. UPDATE: I got the Lexus service info... Torque the drain plug to 33ft-lbs (45Nm, 459 kgf-cm) 10) With the panel off, you can now see the oil filter (orange) and a nice gift from the Lexus engineers: an oil catch (green). Loosen the filter, and residual oil will drip out. The oil catch will guide the dripping oil out the oilpan/drainplug panel so position your oil catch below the catch. 11) On the new filter, dab a layer of fresh oil on the O-ring (the rubber ring around the outer lip of the open end of the filter). Align the threads of the new filter and spin it by hand onto the engine where the old filter was. When it makes contact, tighten by hand another 3/4 turn. Don't over tighten. 12) Wipe up oil drips. For me, even though the catch was there, some oil still dripped all over the exhaust pipe and panels. Wipe this up. 13) Fill the engine with 5w-30 oil, 5 qts. A funnel is helpful here. 14) Replace oil cap. 15) Replace both plastic panels. 16) Shut hood and drive around the block. Park the car on level ground and wait 15 minutes. Check for leaks and oil level. I hope this is helpful to someone. ...
  11. 2 points
    We recently purchased a new 2017, Lexus RX350 and love it. Selling our original, one owner, 1994, LS400, with 88,000 miles. This superior designed and built, Generation 1 Lexus has been faithful to us as we have been faithful to it. We loved it and still love it. Its new owner will be blessed with full maintenance documentation and records from DAY ONE and any responses to any questions regarding its history will leave our hands with full disclosure of only "the truth". We would not hesitate to keep it and insure it with Hagerty Insurance as a "modern classic", BUT we do not have the room. If it should not sell to the right appreciative and discriminating buyer of this superior condition Lexus, we may have to make room! It is in truly excellent condition and will serve its new owner well. An ad is posted with www.ClassicCars.com. Go to the ad directly from Classic Car's front page by entering "979779" in the "cc-" prompt where indicated. Please do not hesitate to contact me with any further questions at woodman486@kc.rr.com.
  12. 2 points
  13. 1 point
    1992 Starter Replacement - by Landar This is a link of starter replacement. You don't need to go that far to replacing a starter but removing the manifold is a step in the process.
  14. 1 point
    WATCH THIS VIDEO...different car but same issue was resolved. i just remembered I made a video when i changed it...this resolved my issue. https://youtu.be/GgzvVNeHE48
  15. 1 point
    I had the same problem at about the same mileage on the 2000 LS400 I drove for 11 years. Verify that the battery posts and cable clamps are spotlessly clean and that your battery is in good condition. And verify that power steering fluid is not dripping on the alternator but that's pretty rare on the 1998-2000 LS400 - it was a common problem on the 90-94 LS400. It would have to be very leaky valve covers for oil from them to get on the alternator. It's not a problem if valve covers only slightly weep oil as long as it does not flow from them. The valve covers on a Camry V6 we used to have weeped oil for years with no detectable oil loss and we finally had it fixed only because the car went to a nephew. Unfortunately, it may be the starter going bad. Have the starter tested to see if it's drawing excess current. Apparently it's a quick test for someone who knows what they are doing. Replacing the starter is a fairly complex operation due to its location. I think I paid about $900 in around 2012 at an independent repair shop that specializes in Lexus vehicles but that was substantially less than what the Lexus dealership would have charged. After the starter replacement, I drove the car another 30,000 miles to 180,000 miles with no problems until I sold it in 2014.
  16. 1 point
    It looks like the crushed gasket of the filler hole caused the mess at the filler hole.
  17. 1 point
    It is Feb.2020 I have been on list a year in April did you get yours fixed??
  18. 1 point
    IIRC, the warranty extension on this problem was to 10 years from the car's in-service date but I suggest you take your car to a Lexus dealership and confirm. It doesn't, or at least didn't, matter if you aren't the original owner. 10 years past the in-service date is a common period for a warranty extension like this. A similar 10-year extension was recently announced on several expensive components on one of our Toyotas after a class action lawsuit settlement.
  19. 1 point
    Thank you for your reply. It sounds like that's on my next thing-to-do list.
  20. 1 point
    Some of these garages seem to be like politicians, no scruples at all. Too bad. I used super glue with a brush, and had to hold each part for a minute or so until glue set up. Of course U know the timing belt is most important when it's due. 100k I believe at the most, possibly with a water pump, (while they're in there) All the luck.
  21. 1 point
    I know this is a late comment, but I just looked here for some info on my Lexus. I'm a retired electronic engineer in medical x-ray, CT etc. and deal with both high voltage and low voltage/high current circuits. I wonder if that quote of 5 ohms should have been <0.5 ohms, as at 12 volts, 5 ohms is a huge amount of resistance and a starter motor would not turn over. Even headlights would draw enough current to severely drop the voltage. The main battery leads + and - are heavy (25mm2 Copper) to reduce resistance. I look for around 0.01 ohm max to the chassis or starter motor. Two headlamps at 65W (130w) will draw 10.88 Amps at 12V ( 130/12 = 10.88A) The resistance of the two headlamps is calculated by R = E ÷ I (E =Volts, I = Amps) Therefore 12v / 10.88 = 1.1 ohm. Therefore even a 1 ohm resistance in the wiring will halve the voltage at the headlights and a 5 ohm resistance will hardly make them glow. The lower the voltage the more important resistance is. This is why AC mains is supplied for great distances at very high voltages- Here in New Zealand we use 230V which can operate with less copper in the wires than in USA at 120V A starter motor may draw say 100Amps (100 x 12 volts = 1200 Watts) and the starter motor will have a resistance of 0.12 ohms. Thus even 0.1 ohm resistance in the wires will approximately halve the voltage and may not allow the starter to turn over. Meanwhile a lot of heat is being generated in the starter leads. I have found there is much confusion in understanding the relationships between Resistance; Watts; Amps and Voltage even in auto and domestic electrical trades. Once you get your head around it, it becomes basic nature. I learned this analogy at College in the 60's - "A Volt chased an Amp thru an Ohm" Likewise, 10 volts will chase 10 Amps thru 1 ohm; and,,, 10 volts will chase 1 Amp through 10 Ohms. The formulas are available online.
  22. 1 point
    I'm going to have new OEM fit Bilstein struts put on the back of the '02 GS300 - hoping to be better than those brands, but I can let you know later this week how compares to when it was new.
  23. 1 point
    I have a certified 2016 es300h and updated the nav after purchase bc the nav was already 3+ years old. I bought the chip from dealer with discount and the upgraded myself. The upgrade is started in the map menu, then follow the screen instructions very easy. 10 minotes and done
  24. 1 point
    IiAccessing Antenna Motor for 2000 LX470 in Ten Steps. The notched plastic cable came lose from my antenna and reeled-in completely into the motor; I could not replace the antenna without first removing that cable from the motor. 1. Remove the mast from the motor, by loosening and removing the bolt that secures it to the car fender. Put this bolt somewhere safe. 2. There is plastic cowling under the passenger-side wheel well. (It’s probably helpful to remove the front right tire/wheel, but not required; I just turned the wheel as far to left as possible and that provided good access.) 3. There are about 8 plastic rivets to pop-out, and two screws; you don’t need to take the piece completely out; just remove enough to gain access to the antenna motor. You’ll probably break the rivets when removing them and you’ll need replacements. You can get these from your dealer, however I found some generic plastic auto-body rivets at Ace Hardware that worked fine. 4. Once you can bend-back the cowling and access the motor, you’ll see the motor is fastened to one bracket with one bolt. Remove this bolt and the motor comes free. 4. It may require a little wiggling, but the motor should drop out. Carefully move the plastic protective cover. And then carefully unsnap the power cable connection. Note: I left the radio antenna wire connected. 5. To open the motor, there are about 5 or 6 screws to remove. It’s very greasy, so surgical gloves were helpful to wear. It’s sealed very tightly with grease, so you have to pry it open. 6. Once open, remove the broken plastic cable and then tightly reassemble the motor. 7. Reconnect the power cable and repackage the motor in the plastic protective wrap. 8. Slide the motor back in place loosely. Before tightening it in place to the bracket, push the mount through the fender mast hole and reattach the nut; this assures it’s at the proper height to be tightly secured. Once this is done, securely tighten the bracket bolt. 9. Now you can remove the exterior fender nut and install a new antenna mast. (Lesson learned: buy an OEM Toyota/Lexus mast. It’s are expensive, but worth it. I found myself in this predicament because I bought a cheap replacement on Amazon.com.) There are a number of posts and “how to’s” for reinstalling a new electric antenna mast ... so I won’t go into those details here. 10. Once you’ve reinstalled the antenna and are confident it’s working correctly, replace and remount the plastic wheel cowling. You should be good to go!
  25. 1 point
    Yup, just give them time. They'll break through the main market scene soon enough.
  26. 1 point
    salmoncheese, That intermittent statement you left out of your first post suggests another issue that was present in that generation ES. There is a relay in the engine compartment fuse box labelled "magnetic clutch" (I believe) that turns the AC compressor on and off. When it went bad, your interior fan still blew air, but the AC compressor wouldn't turn to move the refrigerant = no cooling. It usually made the dash AC button light flash repeatedly. If your relay (less than $20 to buy) is cutting in and out that could explain your problem. There is an updated part number for that relay meaning the newer one fixes the issue the old part had and shouldn't ever fail in the future. You still could have an issue with a temperature sensor or a faulty mixing door actuator, but I'd start with my first two suggestions ... and have an AC expert (not necessarily a Lexus one) check the system out. Gene
  27. 1 point
    The reservoir seems to be part of the fan shroud.
  28. 1 point
    Here is a new photo array of the new LF -1 Crossover which will apparently replace the RX. What I noticed was the selection of power plants that will be available. Gas, fuel cells?, all electric, and hybred. Paul https://lexusenthusiast.com/2018/01/15/introducing-the-lexus-lf-1-limitless-flagship-crossover-concept/
  29. 1 point
    Hi Trevor, It feels like this market will remain fluid for sometime yet. In the US I think that one of the factors for this market are the need to meet ongoing mandates for pollution emission, fuel economy and safety regulations. I'm pleased that the major makes are taking the lead for these technical challenges. Here in Des Moines a few of the downtown parking ramps have installed just a few electrical charging stations. I wonder who will pick up the tab to install many more connections. Some time ago I read an article that said Hawaii had begun testing hydrogen fuel cell cars and the experience of recharging our changing empty cells at a retrofited Paul
  30. 1 point
    Time to get it diagnosed. If you don't have that ability than you need to find a reputable shop. If you do start with an ammeter between the negative cable and battery negative and measure the amount of currant that is drawing while everything is off. than one by one remove fuses and see which one effects the currant draw. This will help you diagnose which system in the car is causing the currant drain. Be aware that there is always a very small current drain for the security system. But if you see a large drain (1 amp or larger ) than there might be a issue. quick things to check are dome light, and cargo area light, they can draw a lot of juice if left on by mistake.
  31. 1 point
    You might be able to connect into the back of your mirror without having to go into your overhead console. I have a RX350 so I went into the overhead console. You will have to determine what works best for your model or find out what others did.
  32. 1 point
    Search Mirrortap (works very well) on ebay and then do a search on this site and other Lexus forums that have covered this in several threads. You can tap into a connector in the overhead console. The threads will explain how to remove the overhead console. You will have to find out, or test for, which hot wire is switched and which wire to use as a ground.
  33. 1 point
    Thanks for the pic but I need step by step. Guess I'll pay to get it done. 😒
  34. 1 point
    QqI already replaced the battery that was the first thing i did. I found out if i get the battery light on, i can turn off the car and start it up again it goes away and doesnt come back untill i restart the car. The ac actually has nothing to do with it either that just happened to do it as i used the ac. I have a video of what its doing ill try to post it.
  35. 1 point
    Man I know how you feel. That is about the same way I felt too. That is exactly why I purchased the Porsche. I told my wife I wasn't getting rid of one toy without getting another one.
  36. 1 point
    2016 GS F Nebula Gray Pearl
  37. 1 point
    The pics are showing up now, thanks.
  38. 1 point
    Go to a Lexus dealership and get a battery there. Shouldn't be more than $120, and it's 5year warranty. I mean if you go anywhere else your gonna end up spending $100-$150 for a battery. I believe your battery should be rated at 575 cold cranking amps. Try eBay for your door handle or the junkyard.
  39. 1 point
    Was it super expensive to have it repainted? I love the car and would love to have it painted but I do think Lexus deserves the free advertising of me driving the car around everyday. Mine has always been babied and taken very good care of. I don't have 1 ding. I plan to keep it as long as it will go. It is definitely my last Lexus though.
  40. 1 point
    I was hoping that with all of the complaints Lexus would have stepped up and done what was right and fix the problem. It seems to be all the paint with a pearl finish appear to have this problem. I bought the GX470 brand new shipped from Japan. And I took great care of it, hand cleaned mostly and waxed at least twice a year, but always kept clean. It really *BLEEP*es me off to see the paint peel like it did. I had it painted and now I see I'll have to have the rims done also, as there starting to peel. Good Luck to all of you and if there are any changes with Lexus , let the group know.
  41. 1 point
    I bought new fan/controller combo for 150.00 including shipping. (actually was 146.plus change) I installed this last night and problem solved. I would like to add I now have 2 extra fans that are fine. I could not find the controller alone. If anyone needs a fan, right of left, let me know. I would let you have them for the cost of shipping. The multi-meter check was what told me what the issue was. 12V gong in and less than 12V coming out.
  42. 1 point
    no rubbing issues ? I want to do a 245/45/18 on a 18x8 35offset rim cant seem to find any info as to fitment most tire websites suggest 235/45/18 any input from any would be appreciated.Thanks
  43. 1 point
    Well my P0430 saga is over I think. Today I removed the Y pipe and secondary catalytic converter section to get it on the bench. I removed the stainless steel heat shields and sure enough on the Bank 2 side the pipe was cracked almost all the way around. The crack was about 6" behind the secondary O2 sensor hidden under the shield. See photos below. So I reinstalled the Y pipe with finger tight bolts just to get it aligned properly. Then I tack welded the pipe (MIG welder with flux core wire, no gas) so it would stay in the proper orientation. I then pulled the pipe back out and got it on the bench for a thorough welding. It’s really a job for a TIG welder but since I don’t have one I plodded on with my MIG welder. It isn’t a work of beauty but I got the pipe strengthened and plugged up of all the leaks. Then went on to puddle weld the other areas where the shield clamps had existed (and the exhaust pipe was about to corrode through). I figured while I was at it I might as well strengthen those areas. After I was done I didn’t reinstall the stainless steel heat shields (last photo at bottom) as the fiberglass insulation was damaged beyond use and some of the bumps from welding would have interfered with a proper fit. Maybe someday I’ll get ambitious and put them on but I doubt it’s anytime soon. I decided to remove the replacement non-OEM catalytic converter I installed back in August and reinstalled the old OEM one. Using new OEM gaskets and bolts throughout, reinstall was a snap. I had bought a new O2 sensor for the Bank 2 secondary side but didn’t install it either. I also didn’t use the O2 sensor spacers I had been experimenting with (spoofing emission system so it didn’t see erroneous bank 2 secondary O2 sensor). Fired up car and it was immediately more silent than before. Recently the leak had gotten to the point that it was becoming quite audible. Now it was back like it was before all this trouble. I went for a test drive with my OBDII adapter and laptop. I watched the bank 2 primary and secondary O2 sensors on a graph output. Lexus LS430 O2 Sensor Graphs.pdf I knew right away all my P0430 problems were fixed. The secondary O2 sensor was stable, mid voltage range and only moved a little. It closely mirrored the bank 1 secondary sensor. Prior to this the bank 2 secondary sensor tracked the bank 2 primary sensor. That is why I thought I had a bum catalytic converter. I’ve since driven 80 miles or so and no CEL. It might take a couple days to run all the ECU tests but I am very confident this has solved the problem due to the radical change in the bank 2 secondary sensor output after welding the leak. Lessons learned: This was never a failed catalytic converter problem as some suggested (DAY). I am very happy I didn’t buy a $1,000 OEM primary catalytic converter or $1300 OEM Y-pipe/secondary catalytic converter. I still don’t understand why a leak well after the second O2 sensor can have such a dramatic impact on secondary O2 sensor readings. While I don’t understand it, I have seen very clearly with leak and without (repaired) leak. The difference is unmistakable. I wasted some money on parts I didn’t need. $60 on a bank 2 primary O2 sensor, $175 non OEM catalytic converter, and another $60 on a secondary O2 sensor. I’ll leave the primary O2 sensor in as it’s not worth my time to pull it out. I’ll see if I can sell the slightly used converter and new unused secondary O2 sensor on eBay. The design of the Y pipe and secondary catalytic converter is poor. The stainless shield and salt water wicking insulation sets up a perfect corrosion environment for the exhaust pipe to develop leaks. I suspect a lot of LS430 owners will start seeing P0420 and P0430 error codes. My salty home state of IL contributed to my 2004 happening so fast. I learned a bit about OBDII and emission control system in general. Always use OEM gaskets when removing these parts. The gaskets that came with my non OEM catalytic converter were laughable. I made a listening device with 2’ of clear tubing connected to the ear piece of my mechanics stethoscope. It made probing for leaks simple and precise. In fact I found a couple pinhole leaks after I was done that I was able to plug up with a couple of MIG shots. If you get a P0420 or P0430 don’t run out and change catalytic converters. It may be as simple as a pipe crack underneath the stainless steel heat shields.
  44. 1 point
    I hope that this will help somebody who is dealing with sudden and occasional loss of power on an early model LS400. This problem seems to be called “Limp Mode” in these forums. My model is a 1990 LS400, all original equipment, 205,000 miles, original owner. Symptoms: Sudden loss of power, as if out of fuel, while driving or waiting at a stop. Engine may seem as if it is stalling or idling rough. Applying gas does not increase idle speed, but may allow the car to move slowly, hence the term “Limp Mode’. No CEL. It can be quite scary if you are in traffic. It can also resolve itself if the car is cooled down, and may not happen again for months. Conditions: (In hindsight, these were important in my case) A relatively hot day, 75 F or more. Car had been sitting in the sun for a while. Gas was at or below a quarter tank full, but definitely not empty. On one occasion, AAA arrived and gave me some fuel and that fixed it. This should have been a clue. After reading the shop manual and many suggestions in this and other forums, I changed the following and other items: New Plugs, Igniters, Rotors, Ignition harness, Temp sensor, fuel filter, PCV…….checked the gas tank cap for proper sealing. I also checked and cleaned the throttle body and did the Seafoam thing as described elsewhere, cleaned the EGR filter. All of these items, plus new rear engine mount, helped restore the engine to much smoother operation. It seemed like the issue was resolved, until it happened one more time. This time, I bought a new Denso fuel pump from their website which was cheaper than anywhere else I could find. I drained the fuel tank, and the gas was remarkably clean, almost zero sediment. I also confirmed that when the red light comes on, there is 3 gallons left in the tank. So the fuel gauge was operating normally. Put in the new fuel pump. I am happy to report that the problem has been resolved since replacing the fuel pump, so you might consider doing this if you have the same problem under the same conditions. In hindsight, my explanation is that the fuel pump was failing when it got hot. Somewhere below a quarter tank, the pump motor is no longer bathed in fuel which normally helps it stay relatively cool. With hot gas on a hot day, the pump would overheat and either stop completely or go into a lower flow mode. If you take the pump out and test it, it will seem OK unless the same conditions are met. It’s been 2 years now, and the engine is still running smoothly. I’ve been through 2 summers and not seen the limp mode. Fingers crossed, it will stay fixed. Good luck in resolving your situation!
  45. 1 point
    her are some helpful wire colors for head unit (thanks DEI) 02 lexus es300 12+ constant blue/yellow 12+ acc gray ground brown illumination + green factory amp on pink/blue all wires above found at factory head unit plug left front spkr +pink -purple right front spkr +light green -blue left rear spkr +black -yellow right rear spkr +red -white all wires above found at factory amp (behind glovebox next to ECM) VSS (speed sense) purple/white found at ECM (behind glovebox next to factory amp)
  46. 1 point
    Bob, thanks so much! This worked like a charm. I got a glue gun from Michaels arts & crafts and went to work. I played music with bass so I could see the tear. I could not see it by a visual inspection at first. I have pictures and a quicktime movie of the process if anyone wants me to email them. Now my sub is fixed and sounds great! The repair took me about 20 minutes and works.
  47. 1 point
    A bunch of LX engines prior to 02 had the exhaust manifold problem. It tends to crack in an area that is not easily seen, and it gets worse with age. Lexus replaced the ones that went bad during the warranty period. The replacements do not seem to have the problem. If you find a used one, be wary - it may have the same inherent weakness. Ordering the replacements should give you the updated parts - whether from Toyota or Lexus. If you know of a good mechanic, they can replace the manifolds. I just would not get a used part for fear of getting one of the faulty ones.
  48. 1 point
    Thanks for your reply- I'm new to this site so can you help me with searching under the threads- show I just use the search button?
  49. 1 point
    Vehicle: 04 RX330 Purchased: 8/16/04 Dealer: Lexus of Madison in Madison, WI ("Lexus M") Current Service Performed by Bergstrom Lexus in Appleton, WI ("Lexus B") Problems: 1. Took delivery and car developed shimmy at 55 mph, returned to Lexus M, wheels/tires were out of balance (rebalanced) - no charge. 2. After 4 weeks dash popping noise developed in proximity to both A pillars or dash side air vents, rattled detected in proximity to glove box. Returned to Lexus M for 1000 mile service (repair undertaken, problems not fixed) - no charge. Began to notice the transmission hesitation (but based on comments from this forum decided to wait and see if this problem would persist - it still does). 3. Mid-September had "falling out" with sales person at Lexus M due to answers given on Toyota follow-up questionnaire. I will not do business with Lexus M again due to this experience. 4. Oct 4, took vehicle to Lexus B to address dash squeaks and rattles. Inspection performed. I was informed that one air vent was "broken," service tech recommended replacing both (parts ordered) and suggested that when the parts were in they would conduct their own "in house" repairs for the dash problems using a system that they had developed over the winter of 03-04 to deal with all the problems that new RX330 owners were experiencing. Also noted the ticking sound from the lifters - was told that a TSB was coming out but that service could not be performed until TSB received. No charge. 5. Oct 18, vehicle returned to Lexus B for replacement of vents and other "fixes." No improvement following service. No TSB yet on the "ticking" sound. No charge. 6. Nov. 4, vehicle returned to Lexus B for first oil change. Requested that squeak and rattle issues be addressed again. Also began experiencing wind noise from driver side window at high speeds (e.g., excess of 70 mph) during cross wind conditions. Additional repair attempted by Lexus B with no success. No charge. 7. Dec. 17, vehicle returned to Lexus B to address first recall notice regarding tail light wiring. Repair completed. No charge. 8. March 7, 2005, vehicle returned to Lexus B to repair failure of driver side window opener. Problem fixed. No charge. 9. March 17, 2005, vehicle returned to Lexus B with instructions to keep vehicle until squeaks and rattles and wind noise addressed. Car remained at dealership for 5 days. Returned with A-pillar popping noises reduced but not eliminated. Rattling in area around glove box not fixed. Wind noise not fixed. No charge. 10. April 13, 2005, second oil change and TSB "repairs" to window trim and glove box. Rattling in area around glove box not fixed. Wind noise not fixed. 11. May 15, 2005, received notice from Lexus regarding brake booster voluntary replacement option. Now my wife is afraid of the vehicle... Needless to say, I'm a little disappointed with this car. I will say that Bergstrom Lexus has been excellent to deal with. I think they are trying anything they can think of to help. The quality control, fit and finish, and body integrity issues with this vehicle are not what I expected from Lexus (or from any manufacturer who charges what we paid for this vehicle).
  50. 1 point
    Strangely, the door speakers in the Nak get fewer watts of power than the door speakers of the std Pioneer but the Nak speaker in the back window gets about 90 watts more than the one with the Pioneer. Personally I wish my car didn't have the Nak. I bought a telephone interface harness from Dashmount in the UK but found out it only works on the std Pioneer and Nav audio systems. If I had the Pioneer or Nav, I could completely interface my Nokia car kit - mute the radio on a phone call, play the call through the door speakers, even power the phone kit from the amplifier under the front passenger seat - its "plug and play". I should sell the interface cable on "Buy and Sell" - somebody might like to use it.

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