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About threepwood

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  • Lexus Model
    1992 LS400
  • Lexus Year
  • Location
    Florida (FL)
  1. Intermittent 0 - 3000 rpm action'

    Thanks, that essentially what i did by wedging the the relay in the deenergized position. I forced the no resistor side to be in service all the time. I put an ohmmeter across the resistor and it was within spec.
  2. Intermittent 0 - 3000 rpm action'

    I have ordered one from Rock auto ($15) - hope it fits. Fortunately I don't need to run the car, in fact it doesn't have plates anymore. It started acting up on the way home from the honda dealer, who wouldn't give me anything for it in a trade. I took the plates off it and put them on my new honda accord v6. But I did not want to sell it to anybody knowing it could do this to them randomly at any time. Dealer said even though it only has 150k miles it's only worth $500 in trade and it would cost him $400 to send it to auction so he wouldn't even take it. very disappointing.
  3. Intermittent 0 - 3000 rpm action'

    Well, I pulled the fuel pump relay, took it apart, looked at contacts and they were well worn, even felt sticky. I cleaned them up with some very fine sand paper, put it back in and now the car is doing the surging ALL the time. This relay is rather expensive, like $80. So I take the cover off again and I wedge the contact to the energized position. Car stats and seems to run just fine. check voltage on contacts to ground with ignition on, 12 volts. Ignition off 0 volts. check voltage on relay coil. ignition off, 0 volts. ignition on 0 volts. If I understand the book correctly, deenergized is directly to fuel pump and energized is thru the resistor to the fuel pump. This would indicate to me the resistor and pump are fine and the contacts deenergize are shot. Do you guys agree? So are they any dire consequences to leaving the wedge in until i get a new relay. My mechanic friend says I will kill the battery, but I do not read any voltage on the contacts until I start the car. Ok - more - I just went out and wedged the contacts in the deenergized position to see what happens. Car starts and rev's just fine. So if you had to wedge it until you get a new relay, which way would be better?
  4. Hi, I have a 1992 LS400. Driving on superhighway this past weekend at 65mph the car started bucking and surging. So bad I had to get off the highway and take local streets home. On the way home I would shift it into neutral and rpm would drop to near zero then i would pump the gas and rpm would jump up to 3000 rpm. Then I would let off to get the rpm down to 1500 and put it back in gear. it would run fine for a few hundred feet then the surging would start again. I might have said it was acting more like bad gas (water) than anything else but I'm pretty sure it wasn't. Unscrewed gas cap and tank was pressurized. Started trip again and it kept doing the same thing. Let it sit overnight, thinking I maybe lost another ignition coil (even though I replaced both the last time 1 failed).. But that time the exhaust turned cherry red from the unburnt fuel. This time it did not. Next morning I started it up, ran it for 2 hours and it ran perfectly with no issues??? I checked coils anyway and they are good. Talked to a mechanic friend and he thinks it's a bad fuel pump relay. Is this a possibility? Any other thoughts? Many thanks for the help in advance.
  5. Many thanks for your kind thoughts. Unfortunately she passed away at 4:07 am. Thankfully I was there for her, but the pain is no less. I would like to pass on her final words of wisdom to you all "you never know when the last time you did something will be the last time you ever do it." So please, for us, hug your spouse or significant other today and tell them how much you love them, as you never know when it will be the last time.
  6. Well, pulled the alternator and had it tested. Toast. Fortunately lifetime warranty at Autozone so cost me nothing but time and aggravation during a bad period of my life. Wife is in hospice care at the house and I am in the driveway replacing an alternator. Not a good time. But many thanks for your responses.
  7. Did both. no change. Unfortunately what I did not think to do was check the battery voltage with the engine running. It's running 12.9 volts. Which tells me I toasted the alternator by leaving the ignition key on. Is that possible?
  8. I did something stupid, turned ignition key on and forgot key was left all day in the on position, killing battery. recharged battery and started car. but now all the idiot warning lights are on and will not go out. disconnected battery ground (30 seconds or so) and reconnected but this did not fix the problem. do i need to leave battery disconnected longer or is there some other way to reset these???
  9. FYI - Put pulley in home oven for 30 minutes at 200F. Went on by hand (using gloves ofcourse) slick and easy. Went on, hit key, rotate just a little and went completely down over key. No hammer, to tapping. This is definitely the way to do it. Car is back together and running. No leaks so far (10 miles). Thanks for all the help.
  10. Ok, new seal is installed. Unfortunately I am stuck trying to get the crankshaft fan belt pulley back on. Book shows a "special tool" and a hammer. Can't get it started to use a hammer, and since the "key" is 2/3 down the shaft I'm afraid I'll get it started and not be lined up with the key by the time I get it all the way on. I tried a hair dryer hoping to get it hot/larger than the shaft but that did not do it. Maybe the oven and welders gloves to put it on? Any suggestions?
  11. Thanks. I have found that they are an M8 x 1.25 thread and the reason that the bolts from my set would not go in is the threads are all caked up with hardened coked oil (probably from my leak). I took an M8 x 1.25 tap to them and all kinds of black crude came out, but now the bolts screw in easily by hand. Thanks again.
  12. Thanks, there is a harbor freight just 3 miles from me. I'll give it a visit tomorrow.
  13. I am finally working on this to replace the crankshaft oil seal, Unfortunately, I can not find a bolt size that screws freely into the 2 threaded holes in the crankshaft belt pulley so I can pull it. My M8 x 1,25 screws from the puller set screw in 1 thread and stop hard, my M8 x 1,00 won't screw in at all. Anyone know for sure what size threaded hole these are?
  14. I also, was very hesitant to loosen the 1 bolt. So this is what I did. All work done with engine stone cold. Head of bolt was marked and is exactly back in it's original position by scribing before loosening. Interestingly enough the books recommendation of torqueing to 28 ft-lbs and then turning 90 degrees was short of the mark (by about 10-15 degrees) so I tightened it that little bit more to line up the marks. Car is running fine. Does the radiator really have to come out to replace that seal? That's what the book says. Seems to me I could get a puller in there to get the fan belt pulley off without removing radiator, but I could be wrong.
  15. The cylinder head bolt in the previous photos.