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threepwood last won the day on June 3 2018

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About threepwood

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  • Lexus Model
    1992 LS400
  • Lexus Year
  • Location
    Florida (FL)
  1. Sorry it took so long to reply. I have replaced the fan belt and tensioner, no real change. But I have found in the lexus manual that in fact, the voltage regulator changes output as it heats up. The book says : 13.7 - 14.7 @ 77F and can drop to 13.2 !!! - 14.0 at 239F. I added the exclamation points! So I have quit, and consider the current alternator acceptable. And for several weeks now it has charged the battery so I think I'm good. Many thanks for all your help.
  2. Ok, here what's going on now. Autozone felt so bad about the last alternator they ordered me their 'Premium' version of this alternator, which they say is a new alternator, at no additional charge. It does, in fact, look like new. I put it in and it starts out at 14.4 and then as the car heats up (or maybe the battery gets recharged?) it drops to 14.0 but never goes below 14.0. I took it back to AZ and they tested and said they consider 14.0 to be a good voltage regulator. So no issue. But I really need to know if this is the way the Lexus voltage regulator is supposed to work. All my other cars run 14.4 all the time, but I have never checked this before. So can anybody answer this question????? Thanks.
  3. Well, guess what. I drove the car to autozone while the voltage was down to 13.5 and they put their tester on it and confirmed, another dead Alternator/voltage regulator. This is quickly becoming ridiculous. I have lost count on the number of alternators I've put in/out. This time i'm going to ask them to bench test the new one before I leave the store. This one was dead out of the box, acted like this from the moment I started the car. And once again, never a bad battery idiot light !!!!! Guess I need to look for a nicer looked permanent volt meter :o(
  4. Ok, I need some advice from a good electrical guy. Here's what's going on - I put the new alternator in. Checked the idiot light for battery before putting it in and it was good. Put a voltmeter on the battery. 13.3 volts on battery. Started car, 14.2 volts. A little low I thought. Start driving around and as long as i keep driving voltage keeps dropping slowly. It bottoms out at about 13.5 volts, just slightly above the battery voltage I started with. I have never seen this from an alternator. It is acting more like a battery charger. On my ranger truck it's 14.4 continuously, regardless of how long I drive the car. Is this normal for the Lexus???? I have never put a voltmeter on before so I don't know if something else, maybe the ECU, is controlling the alternator ?????????? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated as with only 1 good arm (still) I don't relish the thought of pulling this d*** alternator again. Thanks.
  5. Thanks, at the moment the car is in pieces in the driveway as I took (1 handedly!) the alternator out and exchanged it again for a new/rebuilt at autozone. Just don't have the drive to rush putting the new one back in. But when I do I will also check the connection you suggested.
  6. Well, I fell off my roof Sunday onto concrete steps. 3 broken ribs, 5 staples in scalp, and a fractured spacula. So for the next 6 weeks it will be real pain (not just the pain of owning this car) while it just sits in the driveway.
  7. Not a clue. It definitely was not a leaking PS pump this time though. Autozone did not even want to test it. They said just take it out and bring it in for an even exchange (lifetime warranty - highly recommended).
  8. Alternator was not charging below 1000 rpm. I know this because most of the idiot lights on the dash board lite up and would go out above 1000 rpm. Checked with voltmeter and confirmed. So yesterday morning I replaced the alternator for the 3rd or maybe 4th time, hard to keep track. But it's a lifetime Autozone alternator so all it cost me was my time and I'm, unfortunately, getting pretty good at it. I'm so confident this fixed it I decided to give the old girl a long trip to a dinner party (30 miles 1 way). Mostly 60+ mph highway speeds but then suddenly traffic comes to a dead stop. Remains dead stop for almost 45 minutes as we move inch by inch by some road work they decided to do during rush hour! Idle at a stop in gear was 400 rpm, and I had checked before I left with voltmeter to make sure it was charging at that speed. It was. AC was on. The car never overheated. And yes, I transferred the heat shield to the new alternator. Now the strange part. Suddenly the radio died. I mean went blank and would not turn on or play a CD. Odd, but I had read they do fail. Then suddenly every time I would step on the brake the dashboard speed and rpm needles only would go black ???? JUST THE NEEDLES, NOT THE ENTIRE DISPLAY! Let up on brake and needles light up again. A few more stops and every time I step on the brake ALL the dashboard lights go out! Then traffic lets up and the car barely accelerates, feels like it is stuck in 5th gear. I had to use drive 1 and 2 to accelerate and stop the horn blasting people behind me. I get to the dinner party and park it. 1 hour later I come out and it will not start, dead battery. I get a jump and the car eventually starts. Measure voltage at battery and it's 14.5, normal for this car. (Yeah, I carry a multimeter in the trunk. Along with a jump starter, jumper cables, a spare ECU, a spare TPS, spare brake lights, 2 spare fan belts, a spare AC compressor, a spare ignition coil, the phone number for GEICO towing, and probably more I can't remember). Start driving it and it runs perfectly all the way home, EVEN THE RADIO STARTED WORKING AGAIN !!!!! This morning I get up and it starts just like normal with 14.5 volts on battery, so the 30 mile drive home fully charged the battery. I can only guess the stop and go overheated the alternator even with the heat shield in place and the low voltage to the ECU caused it to go nuts. ECU has already been replaced with a good capacitor version so it's not likely the ECU. Of course, since there isn't any real voltmeter or ammeter in this car there is no way to tell for sure. And the idiot battery light has never come on in advance for any of the other alternator failures so I'm not at all surprised it didn't come on this time. And it's not the trunk wiring as I have fixed that issue and rechecked the fix this morning. I'm ready to stop calling her the old lady and start calling her the old witch 🐵 I'm thinking of fabricating a better heat shield if no one has any better suggestions.
  9. Update - Replaced alternator and issue was resolved. Charging at idle again.
  10. 92 LS400. ~180k on it, but can't say for sure as Odometer quit at 157k (ah, just another known issue, eh?). Have replaced alternator 2 times before, both due to power steering leaks, but the failures were different than this time. Previously, they just quit and all idiot lights on dash came on. This time idiot lights come only below 1000 rpm. volt meter on battery shows it is not charging below 1000 rpm. There isn't any belt noise, but I have.....Changed belt out belt with spare I took off just because of old age at the 100k service,, removed. cleaned and replace both battery terminals, Applied belt dressing, applied tremendous pressure with engine running on tensioning pulley (quite a dangerous trick I don't suggest if you don't know what you are doing). Although I have never seen an alternator fail in this manner, My conclusion is bad alternator again, this time NOT associated with leaking power steering. Any other thoughts before I pull it ?
  11. Sorry this is a late reply but for some reason this post is not sending me email messages that a reply has been posted. Moet_lowlyfe. I had similar problems and I got a second ecu off ebay and it did the same thing so I thought it was not the ECU. Then, one of the staff members here convinced me that the ebay ecu was probably also bad !!! And sure enough, I bought a capacitor kit off ebay, replaced all the capacitors on the ebay one and put it back in m car and all driving issues are gone.!!!! So I bought a second kit and did my ECU. Sure enough, I now have 2 good ECU's and the car runs fine with either one and this #1 cam issue happens with either one. Before anyone asks, no, I'm not looking to sell my second working ecu, it's now part of my spare parts. 🐵 My suggestion, get a kit (only around $15 on ebay) and replace those capacitors !!!!
  12. My 92 was doing crazy things. I pulled the ECU and replaced it with a junk yard part and it continued to do crazy things. Per suggestions here I bought the capacitors and replaced all the capacitors in BOTH ECUs. In general car started running fine again. But after about 100 miles of driving I got a check engine light, error code 17 - #1 cam position sensor. Checked all wiring and resistance of sensor. All good. Cleared error and it stayed gone for about another 100 miles. Replaced ECU with the junk yard version that i had also replaced all the capacitors in. Same result. Runs fine, after about 100 miles error 17. Clear it and it's gone for another 100 miles. Did NOT have this issue before the ECU went nuts. Took both ECUs out and resoldered every capacitor. Made no difference. I just can not believe the sensor is bad coincidentially after replacing the capacitors - any thoughts? Thanks. PS - car runs fine with the error code. In fact, once when I forgot to clear it after another 50 miles or so it cleared itself (which I did not think was possible?) and then came back again after another 100 miles or so.
  13. Ok, sorry it took so long to get back to you but a lot of things have happened. First, I bought a second set of capacitors and soldered them on my junk yard ECU board. Now that I knew what I was doing this job came out much better. Sure enough, my stranger things are gone. Unfortunately, my AC compressor clutch decided to lock up. Smoked the fan belt. Replaced it and now i'm losing freon some place. 2 cans overnight. Maybe the clutch destroyed the seal in the front of the compressor ? I hope not. Know of any good AC stop leak? I really don't want to be replacing the compressor again. This would be the 4th one.
  14. Thanks, I;ll tell u where I am now. I completely removed the IACV from the picture by plugging the air line to it and electrically disconnecting it and resetting the idle screw to 1000 rpm. Still does it. I reread the original capacitor post top to bottom and saw something that might be a problem, someone mentioned these are multilayer boards and should be soldered from both sides. I did not do that. So I pulled it apart again and resoldered with significantly more solder top and bottom. My plan is to test it again tomorrow. I;ll post here what happens. As a side question, are there any posts on how to rebuild a locked up AC compressor? This is number 4 and it's really getting old 😞