threepwood

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threepwood last won the day on June 3

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About threepwood

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    guy

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  • Lexus Model
    1992 LS400
  • Lexus Year
    1992
  • Location
    Florida (FL)
  1. Well, I fell off my roof Sunday onto concrete steps. 3 broken ribs, 5 staples in scalp, and a fractured spacula. So for the next 6 weeks it will be real pain (not just the pain of owning this car) while it just sits in the driveway.
  2. threepwood

    Oh no, not another alternator ...

    Not a clue. It definitely was not a leaking PS pump this time though. Autozone did not even want to test it. They said just take it out and bring it in for an even exchange (lifetime warranty - highly recommended).
  3. Alternator was not charging below 1000 rpm. I know this because most of the idiot lights on the dash board lite up and would go out above 1000 rpm. Checked with voltmeter and confirmed. So yesterday morning I replaced the alternator for the 3rd or maybe 4th time, hard to keep track. But it's a lifetime Autozone alternator so all it cost me was my time and I'm, unfortunately, getting pretty good at it. I'm so confident this fixed it I decided to give the old girl a long trip to a dinner party (30 miles 1 way). Mostly 60+ mph highway speeds but then suddenly traffic comes to a dead stop. Remains dead stop for almost 45 minutes as we move inch by inch by some road work they decided to do during rush hour! Idle at a stop in gear was 400 rpm, and I had checked before I left with voltmeter to make sure it was charging at that speed. It was. AC was on. The car never overheated. And yes, I transferred the heat shield to the new alternator. Now the strange part. Suddenly the radio died. I mean went blank and would not turn on or play a CD. Odd, but I had read they do fail. Then suddenly every time I would step on the brake the dashboard speed and rpm needles only would go black ???? JUST THE NEEDLES, NOT THE ENTIRE DISPLAY! Let up on brake and needles light up again. A few more stops and every time I step on the brake ALL the dashboard lights go out! Then traffic lets up and the car barely accelerates, feels like it is stuck in 5th gear. I had to use drive 1 and 2 to accelerate and stop the horn blasting people behind me. I get to the dinner party and park it. 1 hour later I come out and it will not start, dead battery. I get a jump and the car eventually starts. Measure voltage at battery and it's 14.5, normal for this car. (Yeah, I carry a multimeter in the trunk. Along with a jump starter, jumper cables, a spare ECU, a spare TPS, spare brake lights, 2 spare fan belts, a spare AC compressor, a spare ignition coil, the phone number for GEICO towing, and probably more I can't remember). Start driving it and it runs perfectly all the way home, EVEN THE RADIO STARTED WORKING AGAIN !!!!! This morning I get up and it starts just like normal with 14.5 volts on battery, so the 30 mile drive home fully charged the battery. I can only guess the stop and go overheated the alternator even with the heat shield in place and the low voltage to the ECU caused it to go nuts. ECU has already been replaced with a good capacitor version so it's not likely the ECU. Of course, since there isn't any real voltmeter or ammeter in this car there is no way to tell for sure. And the idiot battery light has never come on in advance for any of the other alternator failures so I'm not at all surprised it didn't come on this time. And it's not the trunk wiring as I have fixed that issue and rechecked the fix this morning. I'm ready to stop calling her the old lady and start calling her the old witch 🐵 I'm thinking of fabricating a better heat shield if no one has any better suggestions.
  4. threepwood

    Oh no, not another alternator ...

    Update - Replaced alternator and issue was resolved. Charging at idle again.
  5. 92 LS400. ~180k on it, but can't say for sure as Odometer quit at 157k (ah, just another known issue, eh?). Have replaced alternator 2 times before, both due to power steering leaks, but the failures were different than this time. Previously, they just quit and all idiot lights on dash came on. This time idiot lights come only below 1000 rpm. volt meter on battery shows it is not charging below 1000 rpm. There isn't any belt noise, but I have.....Changed belt out belt with spare I took off just because of old age at the 100k service,, removed. cleaned and replace both battery terminals, Applied belt dressing, applied tremendous pressure with engine running on tensioning pulley (quite a dangerous trick I don't suggest if you don't know what you are doing). Although I have never seen an alternator fail in this manner, My conclusion is bad alternator again, this time NOT associated with leaking power steering. Any other thoughts before I pull it ?
  6. threepwood

    92 LS400 Coincidence? I don't think so but maybe

    Sorry this is a late reply but for some reason this post is not sending me email messages that a reply has been posted. Moet_lowlyfe. I had similar problems and I got a second ecu off ebay and it did the same thing so I thought it was not the ECU. Then, one of the staff members here convinced me that the ebay ecu was probably also bad !!! And sure enough, I bought a capacitor kit off ebay, replaced all the capacitors on the ebay one and put it back in m car and all driving issues are gone.!!!! So I bought a second kit and did my ECU. Sure enough, I now have 2 good ECU's and the car runs fine with either one and this #1 cam issue happens with either one. Before anyone asks, no, I'm not looking to sell my second working ecu, it's now part of my spare parts. 🐵 My suggestion, get a kit (only around $15 on ebay) and replace those capacitors !!!!
  7. My 92 was doing crazy things. I pulled the ECU and replaced it with a junk yard part and it continued to do crazy things. Per suggestions here I bought the capacitors and replaced all the capacitors in BOTH ECUs. In general car started running fine again. But after about 100 miles of driving I got a check engine light, error code 17 - #1 cam position sensor. Checked all wiring and resistance of sensor. All good. Cleared error and it stayed gone for about another 100 miles. Replaced ECU with the junk yard version that i had also replaced all the capacitors in. Same result. Runs fine, after about 100 miles error 17. Clear it and it's gone for another 100 miles. Did NOT have this issue before the ECU went nuts. Took both ECUs out and resoldered every capacitor. Made no difference. I just can not believe the sensor is bad coincidentially after replacing the capacitors - any thoughts? Thanks. PS - car runs fine with the error code. In fact, once when I forgot to clear it after another 50 miles or so it cleared itself (which I did not think was possible?) and then came back again after another 100 miles or so.
  8. threepwood

    '92 LS400, Maybe it's haunted ?

    Ok, sorry it took so long to get back to you but a lot of things have happened. First, I bought a second set of capacitors and soldered them on my junk yard ECU board. Now that I knew what I was doing this job came out much better. Sure enough, my stranger things are gone. Unfortunately, my AC compressor clutch decided to lock up. Smoked the fan belt. Replaced it and now i'm losing freon some place. 2 cans overnight. Maybe the clutch destroyed the seal in the front of the compressor ? I hope not. Know of any good AC stop leak? I really don't want to be replacing the compressor again. This would be the 4th one.
  9. threepwood

    '92 LS400, Maybe it's haunted ?

    Thanks, I;ll tell u where I am now. I completely removed the IACV from the picture by plugging the air line to it and electrically disconnecting it and resetting the idle screw to 1000 rpm. Still does it. I reread the original capacitor post top to bottom and saw something that might be a problem, someone mentioned these are multilayer boards and should be soldered from both sides. I did not do that. So I pulled it apart again and resoldered with significantly more solder top and bottom. My plan is to test it again tomorrow. I;ll post here what happens. As a side question, are there any posts on how to rebuild a locked up AC compressor? This is number 4 and it's really getting old 😞
  10. threepwood

    '92 LS400, Maybe it's haunted ?

    Ah...I'm all done soldering and I have 2 extra capacitors ???????? Is the list for an LS400 '92 possibly the max I might have needed? And now the bad news. It's still cycling with the new Throttle sensor and all the capacitors changed and now the AC compressor or clutch seems to have locked up. Not good.
  11. threepwood

    '92 LS400, Maybe it's haunted ?

    Thanks. I understand and after reading the text I agree it is very probable that the capacitors are the issue. But I have to point out that I have disassembled both ECU's and visually, there is not even one blown capacitor. I'm not sure if it was mentioned in the other thread but the larger capacitors not only leak, they will bubble the scored tops, many times before they leak. However, I trust you guys a lot so I have ordered all the capacitors and will replace them on one of the 2 ECUs and let you know what happens. Thanks again.
  12. 1992 LS400, 180k no traction control I thought I had this fixed, but I don't. At this point, I suspect a demonic possession. Here goes. Start car cold it runs fine. Take a trip of 10 miles or less and it runs fine. Then, let it sit on idle for 20-30 minutes and the possession begins. Idle begins to cycle from 800-900 down to 100 and back. Stepping on gas has no effect. Pumping gas pretty much has no effect. Turn car off and restart it with gas pedal half way to floor and it starts right up running 3000-4000 rpm. Let it drop back to idle and you lose control of the engine again and it just starts cycling. No codes. Unplugged MAF sensor during engine cycling, engine dies, throws a code, so coding seems to be working.. What I have done so far. Started simple – replaced air cleaner, it just needed it. Replaced one suspected coil, same one that failed last time I had an issue but it was NOT like this, but what the heck, I had a spare. – no change at all Unplugged IACV electrically and plugged air hose to it – This is what I thought fixed it but seems I did not run the car long enough. First long trip and it started again. Plugged vac line to EGR valve – no change. Put timing light on plugs (both coils) and watched during these episodes – appears to be good spark. 3 – 4 cans of dry gas in gas tank – no change. Replaced ECU computer under dash on passenger side with an identical one from wreck at junk yard – no difference at all. Next step – replace throttle position sensor. Any other thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
  13. My friend with a similar problem in his camero suggested I pull the electrical connector on the ISC (Idle speed control) valve and guess what, it started running fine. But since I couldn't be certain it was closed when I disconnected it, I plugged the air line to it. Call it the broomstick solution 🙂 Then I manually set idle hot with AC on to 1000rpm. Have not had an issue since. So I don't see any reason to fix it even though there is lots of info on cleaning it. If anyone has a good reason, I'm willing to listen.
  14. threepwood

    92 LS400 with karman Vortex MAF

    Thanks for your response. After looking at the design I decided not to take the chance and just returned the CRC for a refund, pointing out the note on the can about Lexus,
  15. I bought a can of CRC mass air flow sensor cleaner, did not read the fine print. After getting it home read the fine print which says do not use on Karman Vortex MAF's used in Lexus. As far as I can tell, that is exactly the type in my LS400. I searched internet and seems like it will not harm the sensor but won't do much for it as this type of MAF uses a photodiode and not heating wire? Anybody have experience with this stuff? Thanks.