steve2006

If you can solder or find someone local who can, the parts cost less than $5.00 and the repair information is on the web, There is also Jim Walker in Cal that repairs them

With the code you have and the increase in noise check the EGR pipe for cracks/fractures.

Check the engine coolant temperature sensor,if it's faulty it may be telling the ECU the engine is nice and warm when it is in fact cold so the fueling will be incorrect causing the stalling.

The screwdriver should be a black handle with a flat on one end of the blade and a crosshead on the other,it pulls out the handle to change types. It's normally the flashlight that goes missing. If you have a breakers nearby try there 1st,the kits sometimes come up on ebay,I doubt if Lexus still sell them.

The original post was 08/14/2010 but welcome to the LOC. If you have a squeak are you sure the drive belt isn't slipping or the idler pulley isn't making the noise?

The article is linked below,the job looks a little "Heath Robinson" in design and you are correct regarding the current draw as the pot needs heat sinking. http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Modifying-SpeedSensitive-Power-Steering/A_110778/article.html

Hi Fred welcome to the LOC, First thing to do is read the diagnostic codes for the ABS ( reading the engine and transmission codes wouldn't hurt while you are in there just to make sure there are no other problems) Follow the instructions precisely http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html Once you have the codes post up the results and we can take it from there

Sorry to hear of your problems,I assume you knew about the missing master key before you purchased the car and why was the remote trunk release also locked? Frankly I'd be worried what may be hidden in the trunk if you have never had it open! lol Unless thing have changed the pull cord in the trunk located inside the first aid box is for the fuel filler flap manual release not the trunk release. You also need the original master key to program additional keys so without it you will probably need the matching ECU for the new key.

I recently read an article where some one had researched this on a LS400 and had fitted a potentiometer (think volume control on a radio) in series with the rack solenoid and could by adjusting this control alter the feel of the power steering but would you want to do this on a 430 is the question?

It sounds like your Toyota dealer is looking to talk you into extra,probably unnecessary work on the braking system other than just replacing the fluid. If you are OK with DIY the procedure is pretty straightforward. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/brake/bleeding.html

Very strange,never seen a request like this before!

If you can smell unburnt fuel from the exhaust and given the lack of power check the driver's side ignition coil as this is a common fault,another symptom of this failing is red hot cats after a run. This fault may not flag a fault code but a misfire on 4 cylinders may confuse the knock sensors giving you the error you had.

Lexus list it as "Cover,Front bumper" I can't give you the part number as I don't know the year of your LS. Price based on a 1995 model is around $500.00 and I don't know if they come painted for that. May be worth seeing if it can be repaired

Rear seat removal for the 1994 is on www.lexls.com should give you an idea on yours.

Could it have been previously poorly repaired after an accident? Anything on Carfax?

I didn't know you guys used UK terminology,British Thermal Unit (BTU) :D

Plugs # 1,4,6,7 are fed from the driver's side (RHS looking into the engine bay) distributor getting to it is not a five minute job see link below http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/ignition/distributor_rotor.html When you say AMF do you mean AFM Air Flow Meter? If so all you can do is try and dry it out with a hairdryer both externally and internally by removing the air ducting and aiming inside.

Firstly hello and welcome to the LOC. Difficult to accurately say what could be causing the noise,have you tried pressing of tapping the top of the dash when the noise is present?Does it do it when the car is stationary or only when driving? The odometer and speedometer drives are electronic so no mechanical parts to make a noise. As the car has been kept outside is there a chance leaves or other debris may have entered the air vents and this is now rattling around the ventilation ducting. No disrespect intended but are you sure the noise is where you say as there have been problems with the glove box door rattling on the series 2 models If all else fails it may be worth pulling the instrument panel and having a look behind. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/electrical/instrumentcluster.html

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls400/377171-diy-coolant-temperature-sensor-change-pics.html

This same debate was covered some 3 years ago and found by using the search facility http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=47134

I would imagine the 430 is similar to the 400 and it involves removing the trim behind the clusters in the trunk and trunk lid,you should then be able to see and remove the securing nuts to remove the clusters.

Hello and welcome to the LOC albeit under dire circumstances. This is not the first case we have heard of on these forums and will certainly not be the last. The other one I seem to remember had exactly the same problem with engine sludge and no matter how many flushes and oil changes were carried out the problem remained,each time the sump was dropped there were hand fulls of the stuff in there. I don't think there is much chance of any engine surviving this problem,if this stuff clogs a sump strainer filter there's not much hope for the fine oil ways feeding the crank and camshaft bearings to mention a few. Like you with an engine of this build quality and the low mileage I would also be gutted.

I wouldn't worry,any potential damage would have occurred at the time and not later. There have been cases where the 120A engine fuse has failed during jump/boost starting but normally this is due to the battery being connected the wrong way around.

Hi, I'm not too sure about the later LS models as many of the modern versions have "sealed for life' transmissions so require no servicing but earlier models did require a fluid change at 60,000 miles and filter change around 100,000 miles. However looking at the exploded diagram there is a drain plug on the transmission sump which would indicate a fluid change may be required as part of servicing requirements Does it mention any servicing requirements in your service booklet? Does your Lexus dealer recommend any transmission servicing? A good indication is to pull the dip stick and then check the color of the transmission fluid,it should be cherry red,if it looks brown and /or smells burnt replace it. It is also a good idea to replace the transmission filter at the same time,this requires removal of the sump pan so the magnets in there can be cleaned of any collected swarf at the same time. Although for a 1994 model the tutorials below may help in your decision. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/transmission/

When the air control valve fails on the power steering pump it normally causes white smoke from the exhaust on start up as the power steering fluid gets sucked into the engine air intake and burnt,most people remove the valve and then plug the hole left in the pump and the 2 vacuum pipes to the inlet manifold,it makes little difference to the feel of the power steering. In fact the later models do not even have this valve fitted. The recommended spark plugs are normally NGK Iridium,more expensive but good for 100,000 miles. The throttle body is fitted between the the plenum chamber ( the bit that has LEXUS written on it) and the black plastic intake pipe on the passenger side of the engine bay. In front of where it says TRC on mine