steve2006

You may find a replacement in a local breakers yard but they may be in the same brittle condition as yours.

That's very good mileage figures,I guess a very light foot on the gas pedal helped along with a constant cruising speed,the later LS engines produced better fuel economy than the earlier ones even with more power output. Valve radios eh those were the days I can't remember the last time I worked on a TRF or replaced a PCL86.

It all depends on if the engine is fully warmed up when you turn it off the temperature gauge only provides an indication of the coolant temperature not the engine temperature, what is the idle speed before you turn the engine off? Why would you want to turn off the engine then restart it after 20 seconds?

It could of corse be the trunk hinge wiring problem?

I guessed correctly then lol

Hi, You have also posted this on the UK forum where an answer has been provided,it can cause confusion and some members become irritated with cross forum postings.

looks like the problem is sorted on the UK forum guys http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=70858&pid=743491&st=0entry743491

I'll second Billy's comments,you have been very lucky it hasn't snapped the composition of the belt deteriorates with age as well as use and your engine is an interference type meaning a wrecked engine when the belt goes. Also an prospective buyer would be put off if the belt is original because it would make the car look poorly maintained. You can take off the top belt covers and have a look but it will be at least cracking up,same goes for the idler bearings, tensioner and the water pump. If you can do it yourself you're looking at around $300.00 for parts ( good kit on bay at the moment) but you would probably cover this when selling.

Ok is this any good/ http://www.vipstylecars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20056

Very true, I thought it was a good starting place and seeing as the LS was known as the Toyota Celsior in Japan it would be no good searching for a conversion on an LS if the job has only been done in Japan. What I did notice on the link was it appeared to have the UCF30 lights fitted so going from that I assumed the whole front end had been done and the bumper was the finishing touch. Wish I could remember where I saw the actual conversion website it's out there somewhere! lol

Mine does a similar thing but has never failed a safety test, see if the noise goes if you don't apply the brakes when making the turn. Chances are it will and it has something to do with the brake calipers. When I service my brakes and re-grease the caliper pins the noise goes for a while then comes back a few months later,I think it may be wear in the caliper pins which is taken up when there is fresh grease in there. The only permanent cure would be new pins but here in the UK they are £10.00 each. Another possible is a worn wheel bearing with the wheel of the ground do the 9 to 3 and 12 to 6 wobble test to see if there is any play in the bearings,it could of course be the lower ball joints.

The coolant/radiator cap you mean? Yes that's the one sorry mixed a few words up there plus I'm a Brit! lol

With the AC off and the temperature set to MAX HOT do you get hot air blowing?

Mine also does it and I found it was the coolant system cooling down and depressurizing. To confirm carefully open the coolant pressure cap on the expansion slightly bottle to release the pressure and the noise will then stop.

I think I am as confused as you with this one Billy

It has been done,I have seen pictures on the web where Japanese owners have done this but for the life of me cannot remember the site. Just remembered need to search for Toyota Celsior in Japan I just googled "celsior front conversion" and amongst others came up with the actual project. http://importsnc.com/forums/vip-stylin-iso-central/56128-my-ls400-ls430-mc-front-end-conversion-project.html

You need a door handle eh! Well being blunt and hijacking another thread with a completely different topic will not get you very far. New members are in general very welcome to join the owners club but a little respect and a short introduction would get you a lot further.

Below is the tutorial for getting the codes make sure you follow the procedure exactly regarding transmission in neutral etc. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html

have you checked for any debris (leaves perhaps) near the sensor which may be causing the malfunction?

There is a tutorial on www/lexls/com relating to the door panel removal on the earlier model there will be some differences but it will explain the basic process.

There doesn't seem to be an easy answer to this but you could have a look inside the door panel after removing the trim for damaged wiring which could be causing a short circuit between the door lock and window systems.

As suggested above get the codes read,easy on a 1993 model as no reader needed,given the amount of stripping down on a cam belt change it's easy to miss some thing. Have a good look at the crank position sensor and its wiring,easily caught in the belt and all other front engine sensors and wiring,also make sure the passenger side coil lead to the distributor is not damaged and routed correctly.

In a word Yes,offset is the same and they will clear the calipers.

I have heard that it is possible to fit the rotor arms 180 degrees out so make sure this has not happened,also check the passenger side coil lead to the distributor this can be mis routed and trapped causing damage to the wire.

Could be a shift solenoid failed,they can be replaced but you need to be fairly competent to do the job