steve2006

It sounds correct to me,sensor 1 is pre cat,sensor 2 is post cat.

It sounds like one of the engine compartment fuses? If it is there is no easy way as it is bolted in from underneath meaning you have to partly dismantle the fuse box to get to it,

I've never known anyone so desperate for a Sub Woofer,a blood transfusion maybe but not a Sub Woofer,take it easy even if some one has one they will still have to get it to you. Are you having a Sub Woofer meet and competition this weekend or something?

Ok, If you are confident to read the codes yourself and have a paper clip you don't need a code reader, method and codes are in the link below. If you get the code(s) post up the results and we'll go from there. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html

Hi and welcome to the LOC, I didn't know I'd become famous on the forum! lol Before I can help I need to know which year your LS is as the diagnostics are different after October 1994.

Use the same stuff as on the throttle body,I used carburetor cleaner.

How did you check the coils,the drivers side one does fail

This is one of my contacts from the starter I replaced and the other and the plunger that makes contact with the two bits above and provides power to the motor

http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=lexus+ls400+service+manual&_sacat=See-All-Categories

Yes I would see if the supply is coming out the switch when operated 1st,then work either way from there dependent on the result ( don't forget to make sure the key is in the correct position when checking)

Hi and welcome to the LOC. Your symptoms seem to suggest the problem is temperature related. If the car seems OK when cold but not when warm it would point to the coolant temperature sensor. When cold the fuel mixture is richened (used to be the choke on older cars) as the engine warms up the mixture is weakened to normal fueling levels. If the engine ECU, because of a faulty coolant sensor,thinks the engine hasn't warmed up it will continue over fueling and giving the problems you have. You can check the sensor with a multimeter,either the voltage output hot and cold or it's resistance hot and cold, for what they cost just replace it but also check the wiring connections to it as well.

Hi, There are rubber components in the shifter which wear over time and could be replaced but is it worth the effort and expense of doing so? There is also I believe a workshop approved method of adjustments for the shift. There have been topics on converting the early shifts to the gated type used on later models but it is purely cosmetic. If your shift is working correctly I would leave it alone, once I have selected the position I need that's it I don't keep my hand on the shift knob and see if it wobbles.

Hi. I have one of those Mitchell CD ROM manuals which have all the wiring diagrams,they cost about $5.00 on ebay.Are both the master and individual switches not working the window?

Hi, There is a fuse #12 20A but this controls the windshield wipers,washers and headlight washers. Sounds like you will have to trace the 12V from the fuse to the switch and then from there to the pump. Mine is different as a JDM import because you pull back on the stalk to wash/wipe then push the button on the end to wash/rinse with plain water from the 2nd reservoir.

I always remove the black plastic fender trims after the winter and clean them,I apply a thick layer of wax polish to the fender area then refit the trims,it's an easy job using a short crosshead screwdriver and you don't even have to remove the wheels normally. I also use a power washer to remove all the road salt from the car after winter and use a local car wash ( the only time I do) which does an under body wash to clean all the crud off the chassis. Bearing in mind I'm in the UK where road salt is the norm I have no body rust anywhere with a 16 year old car.

This will be a dealer only part,not sure if removal is the same but on the 1994 model the piece is clipped and removed by inserting a flat blade and lifting the trim gently. Cannot be sure on the part number but may be 58843-50020. Other than that have a look on ebay for a breaker

It would appear this is becoming a common problem due to the motor failing. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Repair-Lexus-LS-430-400-Steering-wheel-Power-Tilt-Motor-/130446078316?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1e5f31316c#ht_771wt_1141&afsrc=1 http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=69541

It's a common fault the heating elements in the seats fail,they can be replaced.

It could be the MAF sensor but the engine management light normally comes straight on at start up when it is faulty without touching the throttle,with the idle problem and assuming you have traction control fitted it could be one of the two throttle position sensors attached to the throttle body,if you have a digital multimeter you can check the output voltage to see if it rises and falls without glitches when the throttle is operated,if the meter shows an unstable voltage at any point it could be a bad track on the TPS,unfortunately they are sealed units so cannot be cleaned.

Have you tried a local repair shop for them? If you have the belts out they may be able to match them up for you, If you want to buy "trade" you will normally have to open an account,there is probably a minimum spend/order. You will also need to know the size of the belt (difficult if the belt has stretched) and whether it is round section or square section. There are some assorted packs on ebay.com type "cassette belts" in the search

Hi, Please bear in mind I am from the UK but over here we are recommended to use "Super Unleaded" at 97 octane rating as opposed to standard 95 octane unleaded I don't know what it's called over in the US but use the better quality gas. Heater seat switches should be mounted on the panel just above the ash tray.

Hi and welcome to the LOC, Never heard of a "torque sensor valve" perhaps you could get the Lexus dealer to provide a part number. Instead clean the throttle body/butterfly and the IACV (idle air control valve) http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/EFI/throttlebody.html http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=30723 Also check all the vacuum hoses for leaks.

Picture above is my own LS when I did the starter motor,I still have to remove the rear coolant bridge before finally getting the motor out,I then rebuilt the old motor with new contacts and plunger before refitting. Be careful not to damage the 2 knock sensors or the wiring which are just below the starter motor when you do the job.

Hi and welcome to the LOC. Congratulations on your recent acquisition. A lot of the features on the 430 can be activated/deactivated to the owners personal requirements but have to be done by a Lexus dealer.

I'm always hopping "over the pond" and back