steve2006

If it's the same as the earlier model take care removing the interior door opener trim,make sure you have removed all bolts/screws and use something flat to pop the fasteners located around the panel ( I've never broken one yet)Once you have the panel loose it should still be hooked on at the top of the door pull it out from the bottom and remove any electrical connectors for the windows/puddle light you can get to then lift the panel up and release from the top of the door remove any last electrical connectors. When refitting hook the top in 1st then refit connectors then make sure the panel is aligned.To refasten the clips I give the panel a thump at each location point and they pop back in. The parts are quite robust and not easy to damage.

I cannot recommend anywhere locally as your profile doesn't say where you are but any good local automotive shop should be able to supply the parts you need,there's nothing special about them or if you want mail order try looking on ebay.com

Hi, There is an oil seal (Gasket Spark Plug Tube p/n 11193-16010 $3.60) which prevents oil from entering the tube where the spark plug/coil fits which has probably failed,looking at the exploded diagram it would appear these fit from the outside of the valve cover so you may be able to hook the old one out and slide the new one in without removing the valve cover but if you have a manual I would check this 1st ( there are some cheap CD ROM manuals on ebay).

Thank you for posting this information and the picture,I give mine an occasional turn one way then the other then back to where they were along with a squirt of lubricant to keep them free to move.

Anyone selling one for $15.00?

As Billy says it s simple straight forward job if you have replaced brake pads before,best to buy Lexus/Toyota pads.The pad shims are normally stainless steel so I just clean mine,lightly coat with copper grease and reuse.It's also worth removing the caliper pins to clean and regrease while you are in there.make sure you open the bleed nipple on the caliper when pushing the pistons back,the rear calipers have to be wound back in. On a side note,I'm 52 and if I get to 84 I will be very happy, with 90,000 miles out of a set of brake pads you obviously look after your car as well as you do yourself. I raise my hat to you Sir. I forgot to mention there are pad wear sensors fitted to some of the pads which need changing over onto the new pads,they are held with clips which need to be slid off then the sensor is released,be carefull when doing this so not to break the wires as the sensors cost more than the pads!

Hi and welcome to the LOC. It doesn't necessarily mean going to a Lexus dealer a good independent should be able to sort the problem,it could be something relatively simple like a loose actuator rod or the lock motor but would need the door panel removing to actually get to the problem.

There's a good selection on ebay.com and delivered to your home http://cgi.ebay.com/AGS-EXTRA-FINE-GRAPHITE-Lock-Lubricant-/330380039303?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4cec2f5487#ht_500wt_922

I don't think you can rebuild them replacement is the only option,another possible cause could be the the TPS.There is a switch in the unit which activates when the throttle is fully closed (idle position) the switch then sends a signal to the ECU to inform it the throttle is closed which should then result in the IACV opening to supply the idle air supply,if the switch is faulty it would cause idling problems.

Here in the UK we have a product called sticky label remover,it an aerosol that dissolves the glue without damaging the paintwork,spray it on leave a few minutes then simply remove the badges.Use the same stuff to clean off any residue on a piece of clean cloth. I would think similar stuff is available to you guys. http://cpc.farnell.com/servisol/100016000-200ml/label-remover-130-200ml/dp/SALABEL130

Check all your vacuum pipes and the IACV. From the video (good idea BTW) it looks like there is insufficient air flow at idle so the engine stalls,the valve is located on the front of the plenum chamber to the right of the coil. 2nd post on link may help http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=42315

You can get reasonable CD ROM manuals on ebay,I also think you can download the official manual by purchasing a days subscription from alldata or something like that. The fuel pump relay is located inside the engine bay fuse/relay box on the driver's side behind the battery,remove the 2 black plastic slotted screws to access,relays should be listed inside the lid or it's the one nearest the rear bulkhead.

Looking at the parts diagram it appears to be a plug in connector price comes up at $197.00

I don't think there is a model year specific tutorial for this but the link below is for the 94 model which may give you an idea. Look for partially hidden screws and fixings,there are normally 5-6 screws to remove then the rest are clips which need some pulling to release,a flat blade may assist in removal,disconnect any electrical connections once the panel is loose(puddle lights etc) http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/body/fdoorpanel.html

Hello I looked at your post a few days ago and couldn't think of anything to suggest but having considered further it could be the constant tapping of the cluster that has created the problem you now have.The gauges are sensitive and mechanical shock can damage them or the electronic connections to them. It may be the cheapest option to find a good used replacement cluster as repairs can be costly if available at all. Oh and welcome to the LOC :D

Thank you for coming back and letting us know,I thought it was only French cars that had that problem!

The cover you show looks correct,fuse 10 is the turn signal fuse rated at 7.5A and fuse 13 the tail lights,parking lights,side marker lights and lincense plate light rated at 15A. A common problem causing strange lighting faults is on the link below and may be worth checking http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/lighting/bulbout.html

If your mechanic has diagnosed the problem,charged you to fix it and it has not fixed it,take it back to him and ask him to fix it properly this time without further charge. Diagnostic codes are there to help fault finding they are not definative,why people jump in and replace parts without making further checks I dont know,the cam sensors are just one part in the circuit,what about the connectors and the wiring to the ECU inbetween,are the signals from the sensors getting to where they should be,has this been checked? I think your mechanic needs to learn there's a big difference between reading a fault code then replacing expensive components (are the new sensors genuine OEM?) to actually diagnosing the real cause which could be something as simple as a broken wire. I am of cause assuming the old codes were cleared after the repair and the EML has illuminated again with the same code? BTW Welcome to the LOC :D

Please come back when you have an answer to your problem and let us know what it is.

I'll second that diagnosis The coils are not always easy to test as they may break down under load or due to heat,for what one costs,around $40.00 buy one and use it to replace the driver's side 1st. If you have been running like this for some time you may also have damaged the cats.

Yes the speed sensor is for the speedometer and also the transmission.

Just looked and it is electronic throttle control so as above check the pedal sensor and wiring and then the throttle position control motor and wiring.

I'm not sure if the 2000 year model is "drive by wire" throttle control but if it is I would start with the accelarator pedal position sensor.

AC repairs in my opinion should be left to professional AC engineers,the system needs to be evacuated,repaired as required then dried out,filled with an inert gas/dye to check for leaks and only when everything is good refilled with refridgerant/pag oil. If you lift the hood and then run the engine with the AC on you can see if there is gas in the system by looking at the AC inspection window to the left of the radiator,you should see a gas cloud in the window. When the AC is switched on the engine idle speed should rise and listening from the front you should be able to hear the compressor coming on and off,the cooling fan should also cut in and out.

The standard wire from the alternator to the battery should be fine providing all the connections are clean and tight,running an extra wire could mean splicing into the original harness possibly creating additional problems,also the routing has to be good to avoid chafing or heat sources which could result in a short circuit and a fire risk.