steve2006

If you paid for the recharge and it's not working take it back to the shop, they should know how much refridgerant is needed to fully charge the AC. Did they use a temperature probe in the vents to check the temperature? When you say the system was checked for leaks was the system charged with nitrogen and dye then checked with an ultra violet light? If you look at the sight glass on the left hand side of the radiator you should see the gas flow when the AC is on.

This may also give you an idea although for the earlier LS400 http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/body/fdoorpanel.html

How much of a discount? Ring them and ask. I get 10-20% in the UK you may get more.

It may look unsightly but is the corrosion causing any problems electrically? It may look bad but if everything works and given the work required and the cost is it worth doing on a 20 year old car? The wire is very thick so even if the surface is bad the inner core may be fine. WD40 or similar is a useful anti corrosion spray which may be the other option along with some PTFE tape to prevent water getting further in.

Before I suggest anything are your cats glowing when you've been driving for a while?

I changed mine doing the same job some time ago. Make sure the mating surfaces are clean and dry, fit new gaskets and make sure the nuts are tightened to the correct torque. I didn't use any sealer and have had no problems since doing the job.

You got me. I just have this fetish for looking at damaged LS's. <_< Really so here's mine at the moment, what does it do for you ! :lol:

I would look for damage to the sensors and wiring to them on the front of the engine where the damage is, normally if the crank sensor is faulty the engine will crank but not fire up at all but still worth a check

Not getting involved in a dispute here. From how my 1994 LS400s AC behaves the compressor does cycle on and off and this is why it has a clutch to enable and disconnect the drive to it from the drive belt, the cooling fan also cycles on and off. This also depends on the ouside temperature and the temperature the AC is set to work at so on very hot days there will be more of this cycling and fan running. The change in engine revs is due to the extra load on the engine when the compressor runs and is compensated for by the ECU. Providing the AC is actually working with ice cold air coming out the vents it sounds pretty normal to me. Most AC repair places will check your AC system free of charge,normally one check is to measure the air temperature coming out the vents, if you have any doubts. If you think about your home refridgerator which is basically an AC system in reverse you will notice the compressor motor doesn't run all the time but also cycles on and off.

Don't quite know how to answer your question other than I assume you have air suspension fitted and that new members usually start their 1st post with something like "Hello I'm new here and would appreciate some help"

You need to determine whether No 5 cylinder has a spark or not, pulling off the plug lead and it making no difference could be due to other reasons not necessarily just a missing spark. Have you actually made sure there is a spark arriving at No 5 cylinder by removing the lead from the plug,fitting a known good plug into the lead,grounding the plug body and then getting someone to crank the engine overwhile you look to see if a spark is being produced. The other possible causes of a misfire on one cylinder is a faulty fuel injector for that cylinder (swop it with another one and see if the fault moves confirming a faulty injector) also check the injector wiring as well is it trapped or damaged? Lastly and the most unlikely is a lack of cylinder compression on No5, unlikely but not impossible!

If you searched on this subject it has been discussed many times and the answer is always to use only Toyota Type IV transmission fluid. With the filter and gasket sets OEM is your best bet although aftermarket ones are available. If you look at the tutorials on www.lexls.com there is information on there regarding fluid and filter changes for the earlier LS400s but the later model is similar so it makes a good guide.

Have you considered having the flanges replaced as some others have done instead of replacing the whole Y pipe?

I don't know if it is the same but in the UK the LS460 is no longer available new and hasn't been for some years. Lexus are moving towards a full hybrid line up so the only LS model on offer in the UK now is the LS600H.

Hi and welcome to the LOC Nice write up Have you also seen this one amongst others for the LS400? http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/EFI/fuelfilter.html

Posted this on the UK sight but here's the link for you guys. http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=73494

I don't think the copper washers are the crush type so over tightening should not cause leaks.I seem to remember cases where the pipe has failed due to the joint between the banjo union and the pipe when the pump has been replaced. This is the high pressure line so I would think the bolt torque is critical to obtaining a good seal. The pump casing is aluminum so make sure you haven't cross threaded the bolt.

If it is leaking at the banjo union as you describe you could try replacing the 2 copper washers, I assume that the bolt on the union is torqued to the correct specification?

Good result then, thanks for letting us all know the outcome it's nice to get some feedback.

Not sure of a way of releasing the air apart from loosening the airlines to the airbags to allow the air back out, you may get more responses from either LOC.au (as they had a lot of AS imports) , look on www.lextreme.com or try www.soarercentral.com as these have a lot of AS experience including height controller issues. There should also be a switch in the toolbox area in the trunk you could try switching this to off and see if the suspension lowers after being stood a while.

If you have had to top up the brake fluid more than normally (due to pad wear takeup) check for any leaks or bulging brake hoses when under pressure first, does the brake pedal travel get less if you pump the pedal?

As above remove the screw,lift the tab then get your fingers behind the side nearest the hood grille and at the bottom of the light fitting and pull very hard. The fitting won't break but I did break one of the yellow fixing clips the pegs go into once. PS be careful not to fall over backwards when it releases,better to crouch down to do it.

The cam belt was the only job I let my local independant do so never experienced this problem but most engines have locking tools/pins fitted to prevent the cams from moving once the belt tension is off.Is it different with these engines?

I don't think you could buy just the plug as it would come as part of the complete wiring loom, the option would seem to be to find a breaker locally and cut off the plug then carefully join it into the existing loom, all connections should be soldered,well insulated and shrink sleeving fitted,then taped as per the original loom. Obviously make sure the battery is disconnected when working on this.

1st question will it rev past 4000 when it is in park/neutral? 2nd question is the engine management light still on?