RFeldes

I had the same problem and did the TSB and it worked great. So if you do the TSB and still have a problem, I also noticed that as my battery was about to fail the wheel acted strange when I started the engine, ie: didn't remember my drive position. When I replaced the battery all was well. Sounds goofey, but in reality, the starter takes a lot of amps. Anyways, I decided that it is an indication of the battery starting to fail if you have adjusted the gear back onto the worm drive. Will this ring a bell with other owners?

Turn Signal Relay. Location should be in your owners manual.

Congratulations!!! Just curious about the 600 AMG and 745 Bimmer. Are you selling, driving or parking?

The plug is under the driver's side below the gas and trunk release. It's also where you jumper to remove the air bag light.

I believe, and somebody correct me if I am wrong, the seat sits on two tracks which are bolted to the floor. Move the seat all the way back and remove the bolts. Then move all the way forward and remove the bolts. There are connectors underneath for the seat motors you must disconnect. Then pull the seat out and have a look. Probably a cracked weld which can be fixed by a weld shop, welder. Of course you will want to test all the bolts before removing them to make sure they are tight and not causing the problem.

Get the Kit........for the contacts....search the forum or someone will chime in.

Actually don't copy and paste just click on it.

This should help. http://www.cureline.net/lex/howtos/howto_r...nel_removal.htm Copy and paste to your browser.

Sounds like you will have to pull the door panel and take a look. You should get a clear view of the problem.

As econ mentioned, make sure they clean the filter/screen under the steering column behind the drivers wheel. That is what causes pressure and leaks. Also the screen in the pump. It made a world of difference in my steering.

In auto the system will not turn on the blower until the car reaches operating temperature. This is to prevent the cold air circulating in the cabin before it can be warmed. A good idea if you ask me. I assume the recirculate in manual default is the same thing. Not allowing cold air in until it can warm it.

In auto mode the a/c is on to rid the cabin of moisture. I keeps fog from building up especially when it rains. If your windows fog up during a rain storm (hot or Cold) turn on the a/c and watch how fast it clears while maintaining the set temperature. If you turn it off on a humid day (hot or cold) you will observe the air is a bit musty or damp.

Thank you Lextreme!!

Thanks, Kennyr I did check that ring ands its okay. Thanks,Monarch I know about the kits and that's how I would repair the old compressor if in fact it is the seal. But, Since I heard a "crunch" from the compressor a while back and it does quit intermittently with the blinking green light and I have to raise it above 2500 rpm to get it to stay on. I decided to just replace it anyway and go from there.

The compressor still runs. I believe it has a bad seal as the freon may last two months or overnite. Average 3-4 days. That tells me when the car stops, the amount of leakage is dictated by the compressor position on the belt. I know that the seal can be replaced but I also get an intermittent flashing a/c light which means it hangs sometime. Since I have to pull it anyways, I figured I would go ahead and replace it, the drier, expansion valve and "O'" rings and convert to 134. Then fix the old one, if it turns out to be the seal, and shelve it as a spare.

Well I left a charger on all night and the battery did not charge. put in a new one this morning and all is well.

Does any one know if the brushes on the starter are replaceable?

Well, I got hit today, stopped in to check my losing lotto numbers, went out and turned the key, nothing. Checked the terminals and sure enough, the wing nut connecting the starter and alternator, to the positive terminal, was loose. (two leads)Tightened it and still nothing... called my girlfriend and she pulls up in her bimmer and gives me a jump, to the car that is. How embar-!Removed!-ing!! It seems that when the seasons change, hot/cold etc., the terminals work themselves loose and voilla. It takes a lot of current to crank a Lexus because of the "Hoss" starters and those posts have to be very tight or the alternator won't recharge your battery. I think that is why (seasons changing) we have a rash of starter problems right now. Car is on a charger right now.

My experience has been battery connection. Twist connectors and see if they turn. Place the negative jumper cable on a bolt connected to the car body and the positve on the positive terminal as low and tight as possible. with the jumper vehicle running,Wait about five minutes and give it a go. If the cables are tight, and it starts, its battery or alternator. Autozone will test for free. Good luck.

You should hear a faint buzz when you press the key.

Good advice kennyr, but unfortunately, mine was okay. I hope it helps some others on this forum. Thanks for your input.

Hi cruzinroadking, The system is void of freon now and I am grateful for the advice and will be careful. Thanks for your input, as it is a very important piece of advice for us all. Always better safe than sorry, and eye protection is always important especially under the vehicle. Auto parts are available, but human parts are harder to find and more expensive than Lexus parts.

Thanks for your help David.

What is the easy way of going about replacing the compressor. Above or below? Any lessons learned out there? Thanks

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