Kennyr

Strut bar bushings will drive u crazy with noise. Also the lower shock bushings that you just replace the whole shock to fix. They can make lots of creaking noise. Other than the upper control arms (that I changed for play in them) thats what Ive done to my suspension in 185k and 22 yrs. Heres a unrelated tip. If you have good brake pads that squeak take them out and rotate the outer and inner pads in the caliber. This has worked for me like magic in the past.

sSo my 91 is cherry. My wheel was trashed. I did all the research to the couple places that rewrap them professionally. You pull the air bag and wheel, send it off and wait 2 to 4 weeks. This costs $250 and up, car down for weeks. Not a very appealing solution. I figured Id take a flier on a $50 Wheelskin. Love it.

You wont even believe how good these look and feel. Looks almost factory and feels great. I went with the charcoal one color and the match is right on.

Wheelskins cover. I put one on a couple months ago and its amazing for about $50 You thread it on, takes about an hour. Easy to do.

Seriously, you were charged 150 bucks in 99 to replace a filter that doesn't exist? Is this the same dealer that wants to replace it now? What is the dealers name? I will call them and ask for a quote for my car and see what they say.

Serpentine belt for $270 installed. Is this dealership on Rodeo Drive? They are probably charging 140 an hour and bumping the belt list up 40%. Plus charging you shop supplies etc. Find an aftermarket Lexus or Toy shop. Can you imagine what a real repair cost there?

If I was handed a repair order (in my 25yrs as a dealership mechanic) stating replace the seals, I replaced the seals. It's a no brainer that my boss would have me redoing it again for free if they leaked, or if the owner was unhappy they were not done. That repair order is a contract. If I dont think they need replacing or I just dont want to change them for my own personal reasons then the customer must agree on this change before the new timing belt gets put on, period. Now my own opinion. I dont think you need those seals replaced. When I did my belt at 110,000 I left the seals alone. They still dont leak at 170,000 miles. Heck I didn't even need the belt, water pump and all the bearings I did replace. They all looked great. My jugement call was to leave the seals alone.

I live in Denver and have had my 91 for 8 years. First let me say I love driving this car. I have had all the sticky snow tires the first few years and yes they are better than nothing. But! some years are way worse than others here and the LS400 does not cut it at all, mostly on black ice or in deep snow. Forget about it. 3 years ago I also purchased a 2000 Isuzu Trooper and it's a blast in the snow. Buy the Jeep or whatever, you will love it. I say to myself, why didn't I do this sooner like my wife suggested. You couldn't pay her to drive the Lexus in the snow. Just my personal experience.

I parked my 91LS and drove a Hyundi Genesis today. This car is so much like my 91. It's the same size, rear wheel drive and no folding down rear seats. The one I drove was a V6 with 290 horses. It was very fast but other than that it felt pretty much like my car. 36k with no navigation. I really liked it but heck its pretty much the same car 18 years later. So once again I drove away in my car feeling like the new car I had test driven was no nicer than what I'm in already for almost nothing. It's going to be really hard to get me out of my Lexus. Tags are 35 bucks and insurance is 290 a year. My steering wheel is getting a little worn though after 170,000 miles. I treated her to a new pair of sheep skins this year so I guess I'm good for 8 more years. The first ones were not even worn out yet but a little crusty from fast food. I put them in my snow Trooper.

My guess is Throttle Position Sensor

The timing belt will look real good like it can go another 90k so your changing it for nothing. This will *BLEEP* off many in this forum but it is the truth. Timing belts are made so big and strong I'm surprised they even still advise changing them at less than 150k. More likely is a water pump, idler or tensioner bearing going bad. If you insist on going in there change them all along with the plugs, caps & rotors, wires & serp belt. Or just wait till 120k plus and do it all. A mechanic friend of mine and I just had this discussion. He said he hasn't changed a worn out belt with under 150k since the mid 90's.

I too have put brake pads on thousands of times in 30 years and not turned rotors unless they were below the thickness spec or warped. My dealership shop had 10 mechanics also doing the same. Thats a lot of proof you dont need to turn and ruin the customers rotors by taking mass off them. You take an expensive oem rotor and turn it down and you ruin it. Volvo said never turn rotors. Aftermarket rotors are so cheap now but you dont need to even pay for them if there is no warpage. The lip is no problem if the area the pads hit is still in spec.

Your lock could be frozen up. Squirt some penetrating fluid like WD40 into the lock and work the key in and out a couple times then the key should turn if this is your problem.

My 17.5 was with regular gas. 1991 ls400 170,000 miles. Thats not trying to drive smooth and do right turns only either. There were plenty of stop lights I waited for. I'm thrilled with what I got. I haven't done a test for years. I forgot what I was getting. 4 bucks a gallon makes you think. My car is well maintained (by me) also. All fluids are synthetic.

How many miles per gallon are you guys getting? I just did a test and got 17.5 in town only with the a/c on here in Denver.