billydpowell

well you are among friends here... I have had 10 LS's since 96, and cant even imagine driving anything else, my latest baby, 120k, all dealer verified maintance.

well, ok, but it has to stay outside until sold

sounds like a good idea to me, mine are and were garage cars, and we dont have salt to deal with.. wifes first, mine second

what is a good product to use to keep your headlights clear? mine are in good condition and I want to keep them clear.

I did clean both oil control valves and the chamber. I was thinking next maybe the VVT solenoid or something relating to the CAM position. Yesterday, I disconnected the ECU and the VSC units and all the lights went out. Today, the check engine light came back on. The VSC light remains out at this time. What issues were you having with your car??? NO issues, just the lights... I dont like them glaring at me.. so I fix them.

check the codes, also did you clean BOTH oil control valves? (codes p1349/59) you also need to clean the chambers the valves go in. mine was very dirty, took several times to get it clean. AND you might also have a faulty ocv sensor, mine never got to the point of running/idling bad, just the lights were on. good luck, keep us posted. ran a search and found this: I asked a question about the same lights back in Oct. I reset the code and the lights came right back. Cleaned the Oil Control Valve,Drove for 100 miles and on, thought the problem went away, reported as such on this Forum, and then the lights came right back. A neighbor mechanics helped up to this position. He thought the next thing is to change the Throttle Position Sensor (two of them at $300/each). I decided to send the car to a garage. The diagnosis was, much to my surprise, the Variable Valve Timing Solenoid (15330 0F010 $117 parts). It's related to the CAM according to the shop. Just got the car back before dark today. Drove around and everything is fine so far. The orgiinal codes were 1354 and 1633 for me. maybe this will help...

Thanks, you guys are great.... I have had a 91,94,two 95,a96,two 97 and three 99 models..this is my 10th LS400. my first 99 had had a grille, right headlight and fender replaced and I bought it last year because it was cheap (6500). I got the second 99 from a fellow in money trouble and got it for 6500 also, but a far superior car than the first. I put my wife in it, and began looking for a really nice one for myself, ran across this one friday and bought it saturday for 7000. I am the second owner, and all work has been done by Sewell or Park Place from 0 to 124k (current). The only malfunction is the hood struts (already ordered), and came with both master push button keys, all I need to do is swap the gold emblems and my chrome wheels to this one. then sell my extra. and that is the update..... and I would have liked a 2000, but the $$$ they are asking for them are too hard on my CD's ..... I even considered a black one, so I could have Salt & Pepper ..... duh ... well I paid 7000, but it turned out 7511.80 with TT&L added.

well, today being my 77th birthday, I thought it fitting to buy myself a LS400. so I did. see below... I need to swap the gold emblems with the chrome ones, and probably keep my other wheels, and get my HC plate. AND HERE IS THE FINISH..bottom photo

you are driving a dangerous car, have a professional check it out, THEN ask us for help

I put the solenoid kit in both my 99's, no problems since.

every single one I saw on Ebay was selling the fob WITH chip included. I don't need the chip, which is the most expensive part. I need the plastic shell, which is simply 2 pieces of plastic. I find it hard to believe I'm the only person that needs just the shell. please send specifics if someone knows where to obtain. thanks I think I would check with a local wrecking yard, just to see??? since you dont need a working one.

EBAY....................................

contact http://www.safelite.com/

hay guys, wait till you are old and senile, like me, 77...... I am picky, picky, picky, NOBODY eats anything in my car!! course a lot of people ride with my wife, in hers, but she carries it to the car wash... and gets it cleaned up.. glad to know others are finicky too.. mine & hers.. below

Billy, did I give you permission to use my photos and show my gnarled and wriggled old hand? :whistles: no................... I come as a thief in the night............. hehehe..

and the high brake lights are here:

good advice, either way you go..... I had 2 97's and now have two 99's, only because I like the 99's looks and softer handling. But the 97's were probably the stronger/tuffest LS built. you cant go wrong, either way..

good grief.........................

nope it is still a simple job, oem quality is hard to beat.

my 99's dont do this, so it is not normal. when you find out, post it for us.

thanks, this will be a great help. can you do this for the 98-2000?

Micah, take the two back bolts loose first, drive them up out of their holes so you can manuver the rod around, and knock the front bolt out... and yes it is a 1700.

keep it soaked and a big hammer, (buy a new bolt before you beat it to death) here are my boys (54 & 56)

BRING IT DOWN TO DALLAS AND WE WILL FIXIT. edit: bring it down and my nephew will fix it. at 77, I do the talking, and he does the work. my right hand joints quit working.

I have experience working on other vehicles AC, and I know that I do not have a leak as it's the pressure has not dropped. I also have the tools to pull a vacuum before refilling, but I do not have an FSM or anything detailing the capacity of the AC system. I'm just looking for specific details related to this car. if you do , you know to fill it until the window clears....