billydpowell

If you are OK with DIY the procedure is pretty straightforward. http://www.lexls.com...e/bleeding.html just follow instructions.......

just clean it with carb cleaner and see what happens.. copied from LOC. Sounds like you were just cleaning the air temp. sensor that is built into the MAF sensor. The part of the MAF sensor that needs cleaning are the two small wires inside the tube The MAF sensor is very important to the running of the car as it determines how much air is entering the engine. As the hot wire within the sensor becomes dirty over time the sensor indicates more air is being drawn in than actually is. The ECU, using this data, will start to add more fuel leading to poor idling, poor throttle response, increase in fuel consumption and a reduction in power. I recommend that the sensor is cleaned every 20,000 miles or every 2 years as it is very easy to do.

I fixed both of mine this way, got the kits at Sewell..... no more problems

SRK is correct "There is nothing else to do - fix the solenoid." I have had to do it on 2 of mine.

90k miles, or every 7 years, what ever comes first... your manual should tell you this, if you have one, if not, get one for Christmas.. Cheers.

once again I suggest you do some searches, as your questions are pretty common, but we cant tell you to do this or that and it will cure your problems.

have you tried doing a search? seems like I have read many post on 02 sensors.....

my question is if I have an overhaul done will the car last or will i have issues with the engine being pulled out and put back in?? And if I pay thousands and its done properly the car should last years?? These are my questions answer..... yes it should last another 20 years, done properly, with scheduled maintenance, .... replace the motor mounts and tranny mount at the same time, with all brittle/leaking hoses .

You havent given us enough information to make an intelligent recommendation with, BUT, here goes. It is probably not as bad as you think. but if it has not had the timing belt and water pump with the front oil seals replaced since the first 100k, miles, that will probably run around a $1000. to have that done. (and it must be done). The lower oil pan might be leaking, but it is no big deal to replace. the rear main seal is about a 8 hour job, but probably is not leaking. The valve cover gaskets probably are leaking (common) but are not expensive to replace. so other than some Power Steering or Transmission, leaks/hoses, you should be good to go. SO: carry it to a shop that works on Lexus cars (not a dealer) and get an estimate, and make your decision. Good Luck, and welcome to the club.....

to be serious, if it dies with all the lights still on, he needs to check the output of his alternator, the battery is used to start the car, but the alt, is what runs it...

In spite of billydpowell's rudeness, it is obvious you need new battery cables. Those in the photo are corroded and unable to make a good connection. As far as the starting then dieing problem, I doubt the battery is the problem regardless of the cable connection issue. Someone else will chime in here and help out. Paul I was not intending to be rude at all, just really could not believe what I saw.... this is largely a do it your self forum.... .

this whole post must be a joke..... no one would have a battery connection like that, and then take photos and show them around.... cheers!!!!!

according to dcfish & SKperformance the es300 IS a bulb, LS400?? I found this for 96 LS400: Instrument-general 194 194ST SilverStar: The brighter, whiter signal light. Up to 30% brighter light, up to 20% whiter light and up to 10% farther and wider. 194LL SYLVANIA Long Life miniature bulbs perform twice as long as any standard miniature bulb. Designed for durability, lower maintenance and greater safety.

I just found this, will give it a try when it warms up (it is 35 now) this is for a 98-2000 model, could it be the same for 95-97?? any one know??

Can anyone advise on how to remove a 1996 LS400 instrument cluster? I have removed my old 94 model, in the past, but this 96 is different. I have removed the lower cover and located the two lower screws, but dont have a clue on how to loosen the top of the cluster. sure could use some guidance...... In an attempt to turn the light off, I have tried the following: FOR VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH VEHICLE SKID CONTROL (VSC) SYSTEM NOTICE: In case of having disconnected the battery terminal cable or ECU harness connectors and replaced the yaw rate sensor or ECU, must perform the zero point calibration of the yaw rate sensor. (a) Obtain the zero point calibration for the yaw rate sensor. After the installation of the ECU or yaw rate sensor and connection of the battery terminal cable, shift the shift lever to the P position and then turn the ignition switch ON, keep the vehicle stationary condition for 15 sec. or more. HINT: At this interval of 15 sec. the ”CHECK VSC” is displayed and the VSC OFF indicator comes ON. (However the ”CHECK VSC” is not displayed at the interval of 5.5 sec. after the ignition switch ON.) NOTICE: When using a 2–wheel drum tester such as a speedometer tester or chassis dynamometer, etc., or jacking up the rear wheels and driving the wheels, always push in the VSC OFF switch to turn the TRAC & VSC system OFF. (B) Notice for using 2–wheel drum tester. (1) Press the VSC OFF switch. (2) Check that the VSC OFF indicator light comes on. HINT: The VSC OFF indicator light should be always OFF when the engine is restarted. (3) Begin measurements. (4) Press the VSC OFF switch again to change the TRAC & VSC system to operational condition and check that the VSC OFF indicator light goes off. HINT: The SLIP indicator light blinks and the VSC buzzer sounds when the TRAC & VSC system is operational. so I will try to remove the bulb.

Thanks for all the kind words...

A big pat on the back from all of us diy's here on loc.

Jim I cant answer your question, but I can tell you how an old texan would "fix" it, just get a small piece of velcro, and stick 'em on, you can pull it down and push it back up..... I try not to let this good info get out... shhhhh.

nope... someone else found it, I just adlibbed.... but it is the first thing I do, NOW, that I have messed up in the past... this is where I got mine http://www.ebay.com/itm/160672475825?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_2109wt_932 And on my 96, I am almost finished. I just bought a remote for it, went to program it and my PDL are not strong enough to go through the 10 cycles to do it.... going to have to go into each door and clean the contact points so I can use it. I just keep on discovering "things" to do. How did you miss out on that 98???? 98, 63k, 1800$ drivable?, in a foreign country? Mine looks like this now:

Well, I took my stock wheels off and replaced them with chrome 430 wheels, now I need to get rid of the gold emblem center caps to complete the look.

I hope this helps..... it is for 2000 LS em-4.pdf

Now you know why the 96 was such a bargain! well, this time it set the code on the right bank, same codes, 150, 153, I'll get another o2 tomorrow and try again.. OK, ALL fixed..... no codes... but the light blinks. manual says there really is a problem with your Trac system.... if you have had trouble along this area, please post it, I will start pulling wheels to see if I can locate something amiss. AND Landar, the bargain price is shrinking, 40 for hood struts, 166 for a windshield, 145 to detail it, 200 for a set of tires, 100 for o2 and tranny dipstick...... but I am gaining, at least I have no codes.... just a blinker.