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About jaed2

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  • Lexus Model
    1995 LS400, 2004 RX330
  1. I would doubt this is under warranty. My car is out of warranty by almost 2 years (I'm guessing yours is out by 1 unless you have an extended plan). There probably isn't much incentive for the dealer to replace these under warranty. When you say Lexus "Poo-poo-ed" your claim, do you mean that they refused to replace it under warranty a few years ago? I wasn't able to find too much information about this online, so I'm not sure how known the problem is. Guessing that there were other Rx330 or Rx350 owners who were purchasing these from Mr. Lou's on eBay, there must be some others who are
  2. Thanks so much, Filehorse. I had actually seen Mr. Lou's on eBay before posting, but was unsure if the condition of my lift struts was normal or not. I'm guessing it isn't now, so I just bought a pair 2 minutes ago from him and we'll see how these work when I get them. $59.00 with free shipping seemed like a bargain after seeing dealer prices and reading through his feedback comments I saw that there were several satisfied 330 owners. I appreciate the help and I'll try and post on the differences after I install them. Thanks again. I'm still curious about the experiences of other Rx330 o
  3. I have a 2004 RX330 with a power lift gate, but when opening the gate manually I noticed that the lift gate needs to be fairly high before it opens all the way up on its own. The power door still seems to work well going up or down when using the automated feature. I'm not sure if these gas struts, or (lift cylinders as they seem to be called) should be replaced, or if this type of opening is normal with a power trunk. I noticed a small amount of corrosion around the liftgate cylinders, and they are 6 years old. The dealer cost in parts alone seems to be over $300 for the pair. Mostly w
  4. FUEL FILTER LOCATION FOR 1995-1997 LS400 IS DIFFERENT FROM 90-94. After removing the heat shield in front of the drivers side rear wheel well I thought I was crazy because I couldn't find the fuel filter. After looking around for a little while under the car I finally found it. It turns out the location changed for the 1995 model year from where it had been previously. In 1994 and earlier LS models, the fuel filter was located in front of the driver's side rear wheel well under a heat shield. This can be seen at the tutorial on IT IS NOT LOCATED HERE AFTER THE 1994 MODEL YEAR
  5. Thanks for the info Bicol-ini! but I didn't see anywhere in this thread where the filter was located. If you have a 96, ours will be in the same place. Can you tell me where yours was? Your pics of the filter make me want to change mine ASAP (although I only have 63K on my '95 :D ). After you replaced it, did you notice any difference in the drive? I've noticed that sometimes if I accelerate hard the cars acceleration is not totally "linear" and I feel some mild hesitation. I'm hoping this might help that as I've never replaced the filter since getting the car with 45k. Thanks again fo
  6. I'm hoping someone can tell me where the fuel filter is located in the 1995-1997 LS400. I have a 95. There is a nice tutorial for the 90-94 LS on, but I think the filter location changed for the 1995 model year. I can't be certain, but when I looked under the car in front of the driver's side rear wheel well (where it is for the 1994 and earlier years) I didn't immediately see it. Does anybody know anything about this? If someone can just tell me the location I'll post a picture tutorial when I replace it in the next couple of weeks. Just so people know, I'm not looking to r
  7. I have a 1995 also that i got last year with 45,000 miles and the heated seats also didn't work. It wasn't a big deal, but when it gets cold i sort of wish i had them now. Both buttons light up, but i get nothing. I do know that coffee was spilled in the car at some point, but a local shop told me the elements were burned out so i didn't think that was the problem. However, i'm not 100% convinced seeing as how the mileage is so low. I haven't done anything yet because the elements are INCREDIBLY expensive. Have you checked to see if there is power going to the coils ? Dirty switches ?
  8. Hey Landar, Thanks again for all the great help and guidance. Just wanted people to know that I did the rear carrier arm bushings, front strut rods and lower ball joints over the past 2 weekends and it was really not very difficult in my opinion. It definitely takes some time and a bit of muscle (I was totally sore the whole weekend but I'm out of shape) but it is worth it. 2 weekends ago i changed the carrier arm bushings and this past weekend I changed the strut rods as well as the lower ball joints. LBJs were very easy and although the strut rods weren't particularly difficult, the
  9. I noticed that too and I think it's a good observation. You lose that "play" in the new bushing since the clamp is now clamped to the rubber and thus the carrier arm. This sort of makes them almost "connected". The rotation that was there before is probably lost to some degree, but the bushings i think are pliable enough to allow some play. I think the rubber in the OEM bushings was stiffer, so there may not have been as much play as it seems. More flexibility in the OEMs is probably a result of their deterioration. When i was removing the bolt that holds the strut rod to the carrier arm
  10. I suppose it's true that you can do it all with a jigsaw or sawzall, I probably didn't even need the 2 arm, but rented it from pepboys envisioning that I would get a punch. It was still useful for pushing out the center. Your idea was probably better. Hope this fixes your rear end!
  11. Hi fisher972002, I didn't replace those bushings but did seriously consider it before starting the job (I bought replacements and may do it at some point). However, I didn't really get a good look at them as I never removed the whole strut rod. I was fairly confident that they were still in good shape for a couple of reasons. a) When i pinned them under the carrier arm the way you see in the pics, they were "fighting" to get back to their normal position. If these bushing were ripped, torn, or hanging on by a thread the way the carrier arm bushings were they would have just sagged and
  12. Hi Pishta, In regards to the strut rod cuff clamping down on the inner metal sleeve, that's what i thought would happen but it didn't! I know this for 2 reasons. The first is that i could actually see the cuff pressing into the rubber and the second was that the more i tightened the bolt, the more green grease that squeezed out from the bushings (see picture 12). Let me know if you still think otherwise, but it seems to me like it's crushing the rubber and not squeezing against the inner metal...maybe they're supposed to squeeze the rubber tight?? It's not the way it was originally...
  13. Ok...Here are the instructions from left to right, top row to bottom row. pictures are 1-12. 1) this picture is taken from beneath the car and shows me with a wrench on the nut and a socket wrench on the bolt. bolt will screw out. This was AFTER i loosened the nut with a breaker bar. these things are on at 136 ft/lbs. THEY ARE HARD TO GET OFF! step on the breaker bar or hit it or something to get it moving. 2) This is a picture of the old bushing before i pressed it out using the tools borrowed from Pep boys (see Jzz30s protocol if its unclear how to do this with the 2 jaw puller). Thi
  14. Got them from LPD auto parts (member name lpdautoparts) on ebay. Here's a set...$75.00/pair shipped.
  15. Ok...Here are some pictures in sequential order. I will post more detailed instructions in a bit or if someone requests. one thing that i didn't do that was in the previous tutorial was remove the entire rear strut bar. I only removed the end that was attached to the bushing i was replacing. I then just let the carrier arm pin it down a little...BUT DON'T RIP THE BUSHINGS IN THE TOP OF THE STRUT ROD! I don't think this is bad, but i may be misinformed, so you may want to remove the whole bar. Something to keep in mind that if you use a sawzall on the old bushings (to cut the metal sleev
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