VMF

fast idle after start is normal, just give it few mins till it worms up and its going to be fine. what do you mean by shifting manually? try getting the codes out by yourself and post them here. by saying that your ac doesnt work do you mean it stops working intermittently or just does not work period? try checkin ur freon levels. how do u know that your tps sensor does not respond? try cleaning your throttle body along with the sensor, u can use the toothbrush to do so. when it doesnt start you mean starter cranks the engine at normal speed but the engine fails to start? how many times do you have to try before it starts?

i replaced ball joints without changing the arm, it only took like 2 hours for both sides. there is no need to change the arm unless your bushings are really bad.

is it really worth fixing? for 6500 you can get yourself non damaged LS in a good shape. can insurance do total lost?

thats what i do every time i change oil. thread has gone bad in my oil pan but its really hard to change it and expensive, so i got oil bolt washers from the dealer 25c each and used a bolt from the towncar, then i apply silicon around the whole and my car does not leak anymore:)

high idle is normal, try waiting until engine warmes up coomletely and then drive. check if there are any differeces, when you see that the engine is about to stall, rev the engine up to 4-5k rpms and see if that helps. let me know the result:)

since u said u changed ECM, check the wiring harness, plug it out and then back in, sounds like u might have a loose contact somewhere, this is why the gauges went offline while engine was still running.

why dont you try a junk yard? also try some online lexus parts dealers? i dont go to my local guy, he is a stealer:) all my oem parts i get online and the difference in pricing is pretty big.

yes you do haev a solenoid in the rack and there are kits to rebuild it yourself, also cleaning lil filter inside the solenoid would help a lil bit. i have a problem with bushings in the strut rod as well as it seems. gotta lift the car and check.

i would love to get another LS, but i dont think it would be economically feasible for me to get one anytime soon. i still have my 96 ls but im not sure for how long, i drive my civic most of the time while ls sleeps in the garage:) my brother wants either fj cruiser or gx 470 as to me, i might get an infinity later on. more affordable and just as reliable. and in few yers i will prolly reunite with the LS:)

calling a dealership is not a good idea:) i would recommend replacing fuel and air filters, checking boots, changin plugs and wires and checking the condition of the timing belt. lexus recommends doing t-belt at 90k but you can easily last all the way to 120k. (like it happend in my case). check for the noise when the engine is idling around 700-1000 rpm. if you hear whining it means that the bearing in one of the pulleys is going out and then changing tbelt is invevitable otherwise, just enjoy the car

your key does not have a chip in it so you dont have to worry about hiding another key in the car i have a remote start from compustar for few years now in my ls and it works just fine:)

http://www.lextreme.com/timing.htm did that job myself let me know if you have any questions that aligning is really tricky, if you dont set it right the car can even drive but it will perform very poorly or just like in your case it might be drop dead. btw do you have any check engine lights on? yes you do, in order for you to check the marks on the tbelt and crankshaft pulley you have to take it all off

check all rubber parts underneath the car, boots etc, check the condition of your brakes, tune up should be done every 60k it includes spark plugs, cables distributors and distributor covers and dont forget the fuel filter. check the condition of the t-belt and when engine is idling at around 1k rpms listen for whining from the t belt area

Hey guys, few month ago i reinstalled all 4 shock absorbers along with new rotors. all from the dealer. shortly afterwards i started hearing knocking while driving, checked lower ball joints, they turned out to be bad, changed them but noise is still there!!! im thinking it might be an upper control arm but those things are 300$ each! anybody ever dealt with this problem?

i think is perfectly fine, i got 96 LS with 150k miles and it does the same thing, it was doing this since i got it and i never had a problem with starting.

just changed brake pads and rotors on my 95 LS. procedure is pretty straightforward and you cant go wrong with it. make sure u get an oem pads and pay extra 60$ for front and rear shim kits. those kits will change ur braking experience! you cant install pads incorrectly since they are directional and can be installed only one way. you dont have any options:) lemme know if u need help i will try to figure smth out.

tried different products and faced sqeakcing, vibration and all other kinds of problems changed to the oem pads, rotors, shim kits and now i ENJOY braking!

you can call Carey from park place lexus at www.newlexusparts.com tell him that Vitaliy from lexusownersclub.com told you about the store. he prolly will give you a nice price for the OEM lexus parts. hope this helps

call Carey at park place lexus, he is cool guy. helped me a lot.part might not b on the site but he can get it for you

check the suspension, arms, timing belt power steering pump. make sure all the bushings are in a top notch condition. i just turned 150k on mine and had to change all struts and change all brake rotors along with pads. parts alone cost me around 1000$

Hi: I got a 98 and yes the O2 sensor went bad. The car will run with no problems but the check engine light that came on. If you try to reset it just comes back as yours did. Replaced the sensor had no more problems. If you can do it for 90.00 you have a good deal the dealer charged me about 300.00 for labor and diagnostics. They also told me that once you replace it usually it does not come back. The only risk you are running is the one of ruining your Catalitic Converter. They could overheat and get damaged causing other problems. When you replace the sensor the car will spend less gas, because of the incorrect reading the bad sensor is giving the computer. It coud increase gas mileage about 1 to 2% better, about a mile more per galon city and 2 more in the highway. C. PR there are around 200 different error codes and all of them would trigger the check engine light to come up. i dont see any connection between the starting of the topic and o2 sensor going back. unless you know the code that triggered the light you cant really say much.

REpair manual strongly recommends using ONLY RED coolant, it doesnt have to be OEM, but it HAS to be red. it is due to the difference in chemicals that will not do your aluminium engine any good

the sensor was added in the second generation LS starting 95 and up

it does trigger the error, if you will get the error code and decode it you will see for yourself. dealer told me not to fill it up with the car running. it is also mentioned in the factory repair manual. O2 sensor has nothing to do with the pressue in the fuel system. there are 4 o2 sensors in LS and all 4 have their own codes which are different from the code you get by opening the gas tank while the engine is running.

the thing is, there are sensors in the fuel system and there is a sensor in the fuel tank that measures the pressure. as you know not all fuel is being used by the engine so a big part of the fuel deleiverd to the engine goes back into the tank. electrical fuel pump maintains a certain pressure in the system and once you left the car running and opened the tank you triggered that pressure sensor to report the drop in pressure. just use any obdII scanner to reset the code and you will be fine. nothing went bad.