lexus400

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About lexus400

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  1. Please refer to Autotrader ad #autotrader ad ID: AT-FA40EB9 (box at the top) for pics and details. Car is located in CT and I have clear title in hand. Everything done, great car.. Bob rdunne14@comcast.net
  2. is officially for sale. I have it listed on Autotrader if anyone is looking. Car is located in CT, title in hand. thanks, Bob autotrader ad ID: AT-FA40EB9 (box at the top)
  3. brand new Purolator fuel pump, '96 ES (most years I think)F44829 Idler pulley for same car, OEM part # 13503-62030 (used, 20k miles, perfect) $30 shipped for both paypal to rdunne14@comcast.net thanks, Bob
  4. Two brand new Adus 583, inner/rear lower control arm bushings one brand new Lexus spark plug - PQ20R $25 shipped (All from my '91 LS) paypal to rdunne14@comcast.net thanks, Bob
  5. yes, shoot me an email and I can send some pics. thanks, Bob rdunne14@comcast.net
  6. if you don't want to mess with dropping the pan use an extraction pump and suck it out via the dipstick tube. Do it a couple of time with a few miles on it and you'll have a pretty good change completed. Bob
  7. Black exterior, grey interior. Upgrade, OEM '93 wheels (16" instead of 15"). 189k miles, I've owned since 55k and done everything. I have a lift and have done a lot of things proactively. I can email you an excel spreadsheet with all the dates and what was done and have the receipts to back it up. Off the top of my head - Mikado HVAC replacement, new radio (all backlighting LCD perfect on both), shocks/struts, PS pump, brand new rear tires (Toyo TPT's with 50 miles), matching fronts with about 60% left. Radiator, hoses, thermo, fan bracket, TB done at 97k, driveshaft replaced at dealer, rear main seal, lower balljoints, rack, inner/outer tie rod ends, strut bushings. A/C works perfect as so all windows, switches, etc. Steering wheel was re-stitched and looks like new. The last 1" of the tach needle is getting dark, otherwise dash lights are perfect. Rear tires just mounted and alignment done. Getting a slight "popping" noise when making quick turns. Might need upper control arms which were done at around 60k. Drives and tracks fine so I wasn't too worried about it. Runs, shifts and drives fantastic. I would drive this car cross country without giving it a thought. Oil changed every 3k (4k max, maybe once) since I've owned it, trans fluid changed every 2-3 oil changes. Does not burn or leak any oil, trans fluid is pink and shifts absolutely flawlessly. New OEM radio with CD capability but using a non OEM changer in the trunk (10 CD). Lots more to share but you can tell that all of the usual GenI issues have been addressed. Always garaged. Body is in very good shape, not perfect. Almost all original paint with the exception of the hood. A truck backed into it when parked and the hood, grill and headlights were replaced. Back drivers door has a wrinkle which I caused backing into my carport. Roof has a ding from a branch, and pass rear door has a ding as well. Paint still shines, just detailed and waxed it. $2,500 firm. Car is located in CT thanks, Bob rdunne14@comcast.net I have pics which I'll post, need to re-size - email for now now.... (and ignore my signature stats below which are a little dated now)
  8. sort of but mine is not quite as "heavy" as yours sounds but that might indicate that yours is a little worse I suppose. Sounds like you have changed all the same components as I have so that leaves the UCA's as the likely culprit. I'm going to put my car back up on the lift and do a little more checking. Bob
  9. My '91 LS has 190k on it and I'm getting a slight "popping" noise when making turns. The upper control arms were replaced at 50k so they now have 140k on them. Is that a tell tale symptom that they're worn again? The lower ball joints, inner/outer tie rod ends, rack, strut bar bushings and wheel bearings are all relatively new so I'm thinking this is one of the only components left that's got any significant mileage. thanks, Bob
  10. Looking for one that is mint with all backlighting functional. Please email Bob at rdunne14@comcast.net. Otherwise, can someone recommend a repair place? Mikado? (they did my clock a few years ago).
  11. I have a couple of quick questions if you guys could help: 1) should the two cooling fans ALWAYS come on when you turn on the A/C (regardless of the outside temp)? 2) along the same lines, don't they always run for a few minutes when the car is first started, again regardless of the outside temp? I had to replace the relay box behind the driver side headlight and need to troubleshoot some wiring. I'm just trying to verify how the fans should operate and then I'll work my way back. Also, the box has labels for THREE fans. Anyone know why that is? thanks, Bob
  12. aren't the electric fans supposed to come when you first start the car and always when the A/C is turned on? So, here's what I actually have: 3 wires that come out of the relay box, all white with red sripe. One wire coming FROM the harness with the same color wire. I have 12v with the car started on 2 of the wires (one at the box, one from the harness). They're hot whether the A/C is on or not. I was expecting the fans to kick on when I hit the A/C but I'm not positive that they're working. The one on the right has a slight impact from the bumper bar. The relay box shows THREE fans??? Where is the 3rd one or is that for a different speed maybe?
  13. ok, I think I figured out the blue wires so I'm left with three white/red strip wires that are all the same....
  14. I'm repairing the junction box behind the driver side headlight. It contains the relays which I think control both fans, maybe more. I got a good used one from a junkyard (the original was crushed from the bumper support) and am splicing it in place. My issue is that I have 2 solid blue and 3 white/red strip wires left over that are exactly the same. How do I figure out which one I splice to which? Are they possibly universal power and ground? I have the original box and can see where they terminate but I have no way to know how they correspond in the harness. I have a pic but the upload is not working right now. thanks, Bob
  15. yes, that sounds like a trunk wiring problem. I haven't experienced it myself but from what I've read, odd electrical issues can be traced back to this issue. Do a search here and you'll find out more details. Bob