lexus400

Please refer to Autotrader ad #autotrader ad ID: AT-FA40EB9 (box at the top) for pics and details. Car is located in CT and I have clear title in hand. Everything done, great car.. Bob rdunne14@comcast.net

is officially for sale. I have it listed on Autotrader if anyone is looking. Car is located in CT, title in hand. thanks, Bob autotrader ad ID: AT-FA40EB9 (box at the top)

brand new Purolator fuel pump, '96 ES (most years I think)F44829 Idler pulley for same car, OEM part # 13503-62030 (used, 20k miles, perfect) $30 shipped for both paypal to rdunne14@comcast.net thanks, Bob

Two brand new Adus 583, inner/rear lower control arm bushings one brand new Lexus spark plug - PQ20R $25 shipped (All from my '91 LS) paypal to rdunne14@comcast.net thanks, Bob

if you don't want to mess with dropping the pan use an extraction pump and suck it out via the dipstick tube. Do it a couple of time with a few miles on it and you'll have a pretty good change completed. Bob

sort of but mine is not quite as "heavy" as yours sounds but that might indicate that yours is a little worse I suppose. Sounds like you have changed all the same components as I have so that leaves the UCA's as the likely culprit. I'm going to put my car back up on the lift and do a little more checking. Bob

My '91 LS has 190k on it and I'm getting a slight "popping" noise when making turns. The upper control arms were replaced at 50k so they now have 140k on them. Is that a tell tale symptom that they're worn again? The lower ball joints, inner/outer tie rod ends, rack, strut bar bushings and wheel bearings are all relatively new so I'm thinking this is one of the only components left that's got any significant mileage. thanks, Bob

Looking for one that is mint with all backlighting functional. Please email Bob at rdunne14@comcast.net. Otherwise, can someone recommend a repair place? Mikado? (they did my clock a few years ago).

I have a couple of quick questions if you guys could help: 1) should the two cooling fans ALWAYS come on when you turn on the A/C (regardless of the outside temp)? 2) along the same lines, don't they always run for a few minutes when the car is first started, again regardless of the outside temp? I had to replace the relay box behind the driver side headlight and need to troubleshoot some wiring. I'm just trying to verify how the fans should operate and then I'll work my way back. Also, the box has labels for THREE fans. Anyone know why that is? thanks, Bob

aren't the electric fans supposed to come when you first start the car and always when the A/C is turned on? So, here's what I actually have: 3 wires that come out of the relay box, all white with red sripe. One wire coming FROM the harness with the same color wire. I have 12v with the car started on 2 of the wires (one at the box, one from the harness). They're hot whether the A/C is on or not. I was expecting the fans to kick on when I hit the A/C but I'm not positive that they're working. The one on the right has a slight impact from the bumper bar. The relay box shows THREE fans??? Where is the 3rd one or is that for a different speed maybe?

ok, I think I figured out the blue wires so I'm left with three white/red strip wires that are all the same....

I'm repairing the junction box behind the driver side headlight. It contains the relays which I think control both fans, maybe more. I got a good used one from a junkyard (the original was crushed from the bumper support) and am splicing it in place. My issue is that I have 2 solid blue and 3 white/red strip wires left over that are exactly the same. How do I figure out which one I splice to which? Are they possibly universal power and ground? I have the original box and can see where they terminate but I have no way to know how they correspond in the harness. I have a pic but the upload is not working right now. thanks, Bob

yes, that sounds like a trunk wiring problem. I haven't experienced it myself but from what I've read, odd electrical issues can be traced back to this issue. Do a search here and you'll find out more details. Bob

Scott, it's REALLY dim especially compared to my HVAC controls which I can see dim up/down with the lights on and off. If you turned the lights on during the day you wouldn't even be able to tell. I only figured out that they lit up at all by trying it in a dark garage. Maybe I'll try and disconnect that wire though and see what happens? thanks

perfect timing on this post! My LCD display is fine but it's not backlit at all. Does that mean I need a new LCD panel or are there replaceable bulbs. My second issue is the backlighting behind all the buttons is extremely dim. When I turn the lights off, it brightens up considerably around the "Tape" "AM", "FM", etc. buttons. Is that a replaceable bulb issue? thanks, Bob