bean_8044

If the timing belt went, then that would explain the noise and the lack of starting. If it was the timing belt then i think it would be a bit louder noise though. Of course if it did go then....well, lets not talk about that.

Heres a page or two that might help

Heres the deal: Your shifter is just a stick that sits in the center console. It has a pivot point a few inches below what you can actually see. After the pivot point it goes down a few more inches through a rubber grommet and connects to a metal rod that connects to the transmission gear selector. Which way is your shifter moving when it does move, or is it just a vibration feeling? If you just get underneath the car and find the shaft that connects to the shifter then you can check it to see if its loose. just grab it and the only movement should be to change gears(unless youre in park). While youre under there, you can see your trans mounts. there will be a bar going across the bottom of the transmission and some rubber pieces inbetween the bar and the transmission. if they look like crap, then you might want to replace them. it shouldnt be that much and you can do it in your driveway.

Well, if you want to stick with the I6, then i would go for the SC300 cause you can get it in manual and it will be much easier than converting from a V8

1. Its kind of ghetto, but it works 2. Slotted rotors will chew up pads because thats what they are supposed to do. The pads get heated and the slots are supposed to shave off a bit every time they pass to prevent glazing. At least thats how i understand it. I have slotted and diamond drilled and they work alot better than the stock system. I didnt get any special pad, just what they had on the shelves. There is a noise, but its just a whur kinda sound when you get on it really hard. Usually thats when the back end comes around also. 3. Calipers are up to you. You may need the supra or LS brake booster depending if you get all four corners done. Its pretty much guarenteed that its going to stop better with 4 pots in front and 2 pot out back. Here's some info on the brake swap

Well, coolant in the cylinders is what i would worry about. Do you notice smoke when youre accelerating or any time that youre accelerating? Carbon track in the plug wires might mean carbon deposits where the plug wires meet the plug. normal wear and tear for a high mileage car if thats what theyre talking about

From what has been discussed here earlier, the mounts are different between the 1jz and 1UZ. If you get the rebuild on a V8 it should handle a supercharger. Youre going to have to do a rebuild on the 1jz regardless, and it may be easier to just rebuild the 8 and supercharge it. The transmission is not the same length either. On the automatic, you can place the shifter wherever you want to because its just a pivot point connected to a shaft that goes to the "real shifter". The W58 transmission is a different length to my knowledge, and the R154 which is what you would get with a 1JZ is another length altogether. Depending on what year you get determines the shifter as well. The earlier years came with a dog-leg style shifter. Im not sure if the lengths of the W58 and R154 are the same, but im pretty sure they arent. You might be able to find the R154 driveshaft, but it shouldnt cost that much to have the SC400 extended and balanced.

Do you still have the ebay auction link? If they came off of a supra and he put them on the GS then they should fit, but if they are GS models then i have no idea. try em on and see if you can adjust em to your liking

1. Does he take refunds?(obvious question) 2. Why doesnt he offer shipping insurance?

Do you mean something that can plug into the Diag port like the Consult for Nissans?

I hate to admit it, but this car was designed fairly well from the factory. The spoiler actually reduces drag and the front spoiler improves high speed handling. I imagine that the engine cover improves the airflow under the car while directing some into the radiator. You probably wont notice it if you took it off, but take off both spoilers and the cover and you can see the difference

It shouldnt rotate freely if thats what you mean. Its going to rotate to do the alignment, but it should be locked down

Size doesnt matter....forging techniques and what not. Those crazy Toyota engineers...what will they think of next.

You could just use a razor to cut along the sealing line, but do it as close as possible to the edge. Ive heard boiling the lights works as well. Its supposed to soften up the sealer and you can just pull them apart. Just use some gasket sealer and put em back to gether

This is what i was looking for. Would you rather have the UZZ32 or the kit?

Are you talking about bolt-on fender flares here or stretching the sheet metal? Widebody fiberglass kit? I dont know if you can roll the fenders out that much without messing with the stock lines. My car fits 18x10 rears with no problems at all. If you rolled a little you could fit 12s on there, but unless its for looks, you dont need em that big. From what ive heard, 50mm should be the correct offset

As far as i know, the only thing in the bottom end that the ECU sees would be a crank angle sensor and oil pressure sensor. Other than that, the ECU has no idea. sensors should be the same between the two models anyways

It is completely possible that Sherwin-Williams has the paint listed as a different title. It is their paint after all although its supposed to be color matched

You shound be able to use the 2jz ecu on the 1jz, but its going to have to be a GTE ecu and GTE wiring. The guys using the new AEM EMS use the 2jz ecu for the 1jz, and the people here that swap the 1jz for 2jz use the 1jz ecu

What exactly do you mean? The wiring for the engine? The ECUs should be interchangable depending on the model years. The pre-vvti ('95?) have different plugs on the ECU, but the wiring should be the exact same as the 2jz unless you want digital dash

The GTEs are drop in replacements for each other. The only difference is the OBD plugs

You can order one from Varis here in Japan. They START around $1200

For that year there was a Cobalt Blue Metallic and a Dark Blue Gray Metallic. Not sure where the Aztec Blue came from, but it may be the Cobalt. Thats as per Shwerin-Williams paint code finder

Let me see if im understanding it right. You have new pads and rotors, but how did it drive before? DId you notice any pulling before the swap? So with the new pads and rotors the caliper was pretty hard to get on? It may just have seized up a while ago and you might not have noticed with the old rotors and pads. That caliper is pretty common so any brake shop should be able to do a rebuild on it if its really necessary.

you shouldnt have to hook it up to much besides an air source. take out all the spark plugs so it will be easier to tell if its leaking. You should get an air hose that will have a one way valve, almost like the tire pressure gauge. pressurize the cylinder at top dead center so the intake and exhaust valves are closed and see if it will hold pressure.