bean_8044

I have, but i dont know how much youre going to see on the 8. Its not tuned to the best, but once i install the 256 cam ill take it to Ram's Garage and have them tweak it.

I have one on my 1jz and it seems to work pretty good with the book settings. Im not sure if you can get the book with US model S-AFCs, but in my japan model, it came with a book of general settings for most engines. ill flip through there later and see if the 1uz is in there. Overall im pleased with it and i went from 450km to 500km on an 18gal tank with heavy driving and all city miles in there.

Its very possible depending on how restrictive the stock headers are. For the 2nd gen? DSMs they get over 100hp with mild exhaust and intake mods. Youre already at 270 or 280 right? Headers and a good cat back or full system exhaust should put you up there along with an aftermarket intake or BFI. I wouldnt trust an electric fan in the intake either. It may work, but it doesnt seem like its worth it. You could also see some good gains from the S-AFC fuel controller. Ive been very pleased with mine and i get 50km more per tank (500 from 450). You can get that less than the electric supercharger too.

if you really want to squeeze out the extra mph, then go for different size tires

I agree. A sc430 is still a SC. I know that i can still post questions regarding my Soarer here since its the same base. At the same time, i never venture into any of the other forums cause i really dont care about the other Toyotas. I just figure that if you make a 430 only directory, there isnt going to be much action since there isnt alot of history for it yet.

Oil leaks add character anyways. Id go for the oil pan gasket first and see where it stands after that.

Yeah, on the traffic safety video that they show us here, the car goes on the highway and sets off the speed warning dinger. Ive never been in a car that has had it though. If anyone ever buys an old car, usually its a junked one and they mod the crap out of it so when they go to re-register it, it gets registered with whatever insane crap they could fit in the engine bay

If anyone was interested, i can put together one or two Soarer badge kits w/the carpets and steering wheel center, door sills...whatever. I found another soarer the other day along with some hair stuck in the windshield from where his head went through. Hair is optional of course

Well, on my Soarer, and all japanese cars i think, the speed limiter is set at 180kph(111mph?). Most of the cars are supposed to make some stupid ding noise if you go over 100kph or something like that. Im just glad mine doesnt. But yeah, hitting the speed limiter when youre accelerating through third isnt very nice

Have you ever hit the speed limiter? in mine, the car jerks like it hit a brick wall and you come off boost regardless so once the fuel cut hits, youre going to lose boost anyways.

I bet my twin superturbocharged rotary V8 Soarer Cobra GT-R could beat a MR2. I hate to say it, but a win is a win. I had to give one to the Skyline that didnt beat me, but i couldnt keep going(damn hose clamp blew off), so he won by default. Even though i did beat him in a race right before that one. Who cares if hes got a fuel cut defender, defenser, FCD, however you want to say it. Youd be surprised what you can learn from other people if you just give em a chance. This guy might even know how to make his own FCD. Not like its hard, but if we're puttin him down, why would he share any knowledge? I know all about the rear quarter panel too....

I suggest using a plasma torch as an excuse to buy the carbon fiber trunk lid

tipo?, wat tipo?

I just happened to stumble onto this page while looking for what could make boost "stay on longer" http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/hks_fcd.html Something with resistors and capacitors, electronics...maybe a fuel cut defender?

Well, as for boost staying on longer, there are a few ways to interpret that. There is such a thing as actuators creping open and keeping you boost curve down. It will spool up the same, but you wont have as much boost as you could at that rpm. you can shim the actuators so that they will stay closed longer and give you more low boost and increase your top end. Also, on the CT26 (which he should have) they came with the safety valve which would shut down the boost if it overboosted or went over stock levels if i understand it correctly. So, does anyone else besides me have turbos now that im thinking about it?

theres alot of wierd things like that with the lock. like you cant lock the doors with the key in the ignition, but you can play with the windows if the door is open and the car is off. every time i notice something wierd like that i have to wonder how much that added to the total cost and weight of the car. mine is the only barebones Soarer ive seen so im happy

Wait a second, "thread a bolt to remove it off of the spindle"? Is this the front or the rear? When i did my fronts, i just unbolted the caliper and took off the rotor. There shouldnt be anything securing it to the hub to my knowledge. front or rear

I think the GETRAGs go for about 1500 alone. I can get the 2jz w R154 installed for around $2k over here. People really get raped over the 2jz in the states though

ACPT makes a carbon fiber drive shaft for the MKIV

What i meant was that the 1jz was only around for four years on the Supra, only a few of which ever made it to the states to my knowledge. Now, the 2jz came to the states as soon as the MKIV came out. You know once something hits the states it explodes all over the place. Im just saying that if they would have put the 1jz in more US spec Supras there would be a hell of alot more aftermarket research done on it. Over here, the 1jz is a great engine, but the 2jz does have the torque. its the same with the RB20 and 25, and the Aussies RB30. Actually that doesnt prove my point at all. I have no idea what im saying except that america doesnt support the 1jz even though its almost the same at the 2jz

Mine does that too. I just assume that its the ECU telling the engine to idle higher so the compressor will work when youre not driving

Its in the upgrade path for me, but my turbos cant handle the added boost right now. They should explode somewhere around 14psi and i havent quite gotten the AVC-R tuned just right yet. Side mount should be fine for 15 and below in my opinoin, although my friend with an RB20DET said his boost came on alot harder and spiked more when he got his monster hybrid FMIC installed

Yeah, good point about the ECU. I forget that the US is the only country without the Soarer. You can get the S-AFC Gen I pretty cheap since the Gen IIs are out now. The only difference is you can see the knock reading from the factory sensor and four extra fuel points at 200 RPM increments

You can put the 1JZ-GTE head on the 2JZ, but why on the GE? I mean, once you put the head on there you have to go turbo, but the GE bottom end isnt as strong as the GTE, 1J or 2J. The 1JZ wasnt around long enough for people to use it like the 2JZ, but its just as strong as the 2JZ. Im just a firm advocate of the 1JZ-GTE, so thats just me. You could do the 1.5, but i dont know if i could trust the GE bottom end. Course, its strong enough providing you dont want 20# of boost or more, so that kind of defeats my argument

Yeah, if you have the 1JZ, just go ahead and slap the whole thing in there. Youll get a whole lot more performance with little worries compared to the 1J/2J-GE hybird. Im pretty sure that youre going to have to do some other mods depending on the year of ur SC. Especially concerning the cam sensors