bean_8044

You can just get the JDM GTE motor for that much. Or get the 1jz which should only run around $1k

This is getting ridiculous http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=84& http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=8008&

It wouldnt be that economical really. Heads should close, but the biggest difference as i know is the internals of the block. The GTE has the oil squirters whereas the GE has the channels, but isnt tapped for the squirters. The GTE also has stronger rods. If you were going to put the money into the block you might as well get forged internals instead of someones used crap. Theres a few people on here that have great success with a turbo GE. Wiring harness is the exact same i between the GTE and GE if i remember correctly

dont worry, i didnt directly link the URL so you have to actually go to the page to D/L it Stock UZZ32 Soarer Cornering (only 474kB) A stock UZZ32 Soarer with stock 16 inch wheels and tyres is an amazing car from the Factory. With Toyota Active Suspension and 4 Wheel steer, anti lock brakes and traction control with yaw sensors, height sensors and acceleration sensors, it is one of the safest and easiest cars to drive. A limited edition of only 873 ultra expensive models limited to the Japanese domestic market with 700 of them manufactured in 1991. Body roll is virtually non existent.

Trust me, its been discussed here alot. Try doing the search function for this forum and check out the performance faq. Best bet is to buy the swap manual. Its well worth the $200 as apposed to having someone else do it for you

Nah...i can chirp em at every change except O/D. Course thats only like two changes, but still...thats all of em. You just have to get the timing right

You can drift with an Auto..trust me. Must be easier with the 8 with all the low end torque. You just have to learn how to manipulate the throttle and the tranny will do whatever you want

I figured if you knew MV Auto then you knew Lew. He's on the ALSC forum. If its Soarer and its performance, then its Lew.

Did you try getting in contact with Lew? He might be able to help

HA! i have $600 for a year!!!

Better torque off the line, faster spool if you go turbo, or constant boost with supercharger(which isnt available to the 2jz[not a real super anyways]). I dont think you would want to go BPU with the 1UZ anyways. If you do the 8 it has to be all the way, top of the line. If i had the cash, i would do the 8 or 1jz instead of the 2jz since everyone and their mom has done the 2jz

You know, MV Automatics? in Australia charges $350AU for an A340 valve body. From what i hear, they havent had any complaints and everyone likes the upgraded shifts

Ask and ye shall receive! http://planetsoarer.com/shiftkit/shiftkit.htm And I said,"Let there be tutorials!"

So is it as light as it is supposed to be, or at least loosely constructed as advertised?

Im not sure that you would want the W58 on the V8 anyways. If youre going to have to get a bellhousing adaptor then you might as well get the R154. Supposed to be much stronger from what ive heard

Its all in what you like. A car is a personal expression for some. For my Toyota, im going for the speed thing. Im getting rid of that "smooth" auto trans in favor of the R154 hopefully soon(just have to put it in). After that...FMIC, 264 intake and 272 exhaust, titanium top-end, and definitly gutting out the rear. Its all in what you want and the fact that i paid $4k for my "Lexus"

Taken from: http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/sprung-c.htm Unsprung vs. sprung weight have no difference in their effect on acceleration or top speed. There is no “1-10” rule (or any other ratio) where 1 lb. removed from unsprung weight “has the same same effect as” a higher amount of sprung weight. Any benefit from weight reduction towards increased MPH or reduced ET will be exactly the same as if the weight were removed from the chassis. Weight removed from an unsprung component, such as a rear wheel or axle housing, may affect traction if the wheel is not under control during launch. Lighter wheels & tires do have a very small additional benefit due to the lower amount of power required to rotate them (true of all rotating components), but this is not due to their classification as unsprung weight. The unsprung vs. sprung weight percentage greatly affects wheel control, but its importance is almost entirely limited to un-even surfaces, or conditions where the attitude of the vehicle changes (such as through G forces). This is most important in off-road and pavement road racing, somewhat less important in dirt track, and has almost no value in drag racing. As the importance of suspension travel for proper wheel control diminishes, the value of reducing the unsprung proportion of the total car weight is lessened, and becomes zero if the suspension travel is zero. Cars requiring precise control of wheel movement, where a low percentage of unsprung weight is an advantage, will have faster lap times and higher top speeds, not because unsprung weight reduction improves acceleration or top speed, but because traction is improved. The unsprung vs. sprung weight percentage also affects ride comfort, since lighter springs are needed to maintain traction and control with lighter unsprung components (alloy wheels, independent rear suspension, alloy calipers, composite springs, in-board brakes, etc.), the chassis is less disturbed by wheel movement and road surface irregularities. Like i said...unsprung -vs- sprung

Cocaine is a very powerful drug

I was pretty disturbed when i saw that first picture, but ill say one thing for sure. that !Removed! is custom. it may be ugly as sin, but someone put alot of work into that thing

As far as rotors go, you pay for quality. I think i spent around $300 for my front diamond drilled/slotted and they stop real good. good enough that the back comes around sometimes, but they rust pretty easy. i think if you can get some with zinc plating that wont happen

If you do a search you should find more than enough info for what you need

Yeah, screw this automotive crap. Im going to a scene where JDM hasnt hit yet. Boats.

Ahhh...now i understand. I would pick the SC over the fiero. But honestly, just get either one and buy a stock 1JZ and get the best of both worlds. Boost comes on low and you still get the fuel economy

For as much as i dont like the lexus, i would pick it over a fiero. Nothing wrong with them, but as a daily driver the lexus would be better and more forgiving in my opinoin. As for reliable, staying as stock as possible would be best to an extent. I have my JZ modded a bit and dont have any worries except for the auto trans which i should be getting rid of next month if all goes well.

i havent looked, but your probably not going to find a chip for the 2jz-ge like what they have for the domestics. i guess it comes down to manufacturers and how they keep the power down. the lexus CPU is pretty well tuned from the start except for the fuel curve so a fuel controller -might- work for you. otherwise, get on yahoo japan and look for a powerFC or something to that nature. if you can find one its probably going to run a few hundred