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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/19/2018 in Posts

  1. 1 point
    I asked this before and didn't really get a reply, so I'm gonna ask again before throwing up my hands and going to the dealer. It's summer right now, so I don't usually worry too much about the traction control, though I do prefer to have it off (it sucks to have your wheels fail to spinf when you're trying to peel out). But now, when I press the 'TRAC Off' button, nothing happens. Not only does the TRAC system not disengage, but the button won't even click in to place. The dash light doesn't come on and even when I push the button firmly, it fails to click in and stay depressed. This leads me to believe that it could be the button and not the whole system, though that may just be wishful thinking on my part. If any of you have any ideas or have encountered this issue before, leet me know, because right now I'm a little stumped. I guess the next step is to take out the switch and make sure there's nothing obviously broken on that. If anyone's done this....
  2. 1 point
    I recently posted a question asking advice on replacing the rear hatch handle on my 2000 RX300. To those of you who responded or read the post, I thank you. I finished replacing the broken handle this morning. Here are the directions in case you have this problem. Since the rear hatch would not open, the repairs were initiated from inside the vehicle. Remove the privacy shield over the rear luggage area and fold down the seats. Pull the carpeted panel off the lower hatch (held in place by 5 nylon fasteners). Working from the lower corners of the carpeted panel worked well. Pull the top plastic panel off the hatch (held in place by 12 nylon fasteners). Again, working from the lower corners worked well. Put both panels out of the vehicle to give you more room to work I continued to work from inside the vehicle, but if you prefer, you could pull the hatch release mechanism at this point to open the hatch and work on the replacement while standing. Next, remove the two bolts (10 mm) holding the rear hatch key lock in place using care not to drop the bolts inside the hatch. No need to release any of the wiring for the lock. Dealerships refer to the painted panel above the license plate which the lock fits into on the outside of the hatch door as a garnish. I was told the garnish is frequently broken in the process of removing it and the part costs $218.00 to replace. In my experience, it is difficult to imagine this garnish would ever be broken unless the person doing the repair is extremely rough and impatient. Next, remove the three (10 mm) nuts holding the garnish in place. One of these nuts in partially hidden behind the rear wiper assembly, but can be removed using an open end wrench without removing the windshield wiper mechanism. You will notice two white nylon clips which also hold the garnish in place. By compressing the "wings" of these clips with a flat blade screwdriver and pushing the clops out, the garnish will come free. You might consider asking a person to hold the garnish from outside the vehicle as it falls free. There is a license plate lamp wire attached to the garnish, so it will not fall to the ground, but rather dangle by this wire. Now that the garnish is free, turn it over and remove the two rubber washers holding the door lock to the garnish. The replacement part is #69023-48010 and cost me $84.50 with tax. Check a couple dealerships ... another wanted $101.20 for the same part. Put the new door handle in place and begin to reverse your process to complete your job. Took me about an hour and a half to complete the repair, including running to pick up the new part. Hope this is helpful to some of you in the future. I am certain the repair is similar on all older model RX's and maybe even the newer ones. Didn't tear apart my 2005 RX to compare.
  3. 1 point
    I sold my nearly cosmetically and mechanically perfect 2000 LS400 Platinum Series "SF" (heated seats, originally had Nakamichi audio) in Spring, 2014 for $4999. It was at just under 180,000 miles and virtually flawless inside and out - always garaged. The car looked like it just rolled off the showroom floor. The $4999 included flawless chrome OEM Platinum wheels and extra aftermarket wheels with winter tires. All eight tires were in excellent condition. Professionally maintained with full documentation. Synthetic engine oil changes every 5,000 mlles and transmission/differential fluid changes every 30,000 miles. The Nakamichi head unit had been professionally replaced with a modern aftermarket screen based in-dash system with Bluetooth handsfree phone and A2DP wireless audio steaming, iPod control, Pandora interface and many other features including provision for satellite radio and backup camera. The attached photo was taken a few days before I sold the car. What is yours like?
  4. 1 point
    Hi, Beth-- Welcome to the group! Looked at your CL ad; your car IS a nice looking example. Not having navigation I see as a bonus on an LS, but lack of heated seats may limit its appeal outside of the south/Sunbelt states. Executive summary: What does Macy's do when they want to get shoes sold? Yes, put 'em on sale/mark it down! This also applies to your car. Why hasn't it sold? Harsh truth: It sounds like the market isn't interested in the car at your asking price, and it sounds like you're getting frustrated. I'm not a dealer (I enjoy cars waaaaaayyyy too much to do the car business for a living), but have some market observations and marketing insights I'll share: Even in the midwest, I haven't seen '98-00 cars selling private party for that kind of money often lately. I've seen two nice ones at dealers in my region in your price range with lower mileage.... and they've been sitting for months. From what I've seen ('01--02 LS430s with comparable miles are currently running anywhere from $2500-5500), you're possibly asking too much if you're wanting to move the car in a reasonable time frame. I've spent too much time lately semi-seriously looking for a '430 or '98-00 LS400 to potentially replace my LS400, so that's why I know far too much about this topic. I'm not sure what you're using as a market pricing guide for your read on the car's value to the market, but cars with money put into getting caught up on maintenance immediately prior to sale rarely get back what you put into them for major maintenance, unless you're turning the wrenches yourself. A good analogy: You've probably heard that when you do a major kitchen or bath remodel in your home, it will only net you a percentage back of what you put into it when it comes time to sell. Depending on region, 50-70% for those things is not an uncommon return on investment... As a long-time Realtor, I tell my clients to do those projects to enjoy the use and utility first and foremost, and for the resale value a distant second... but I digress. Back to your car and private party valuation: When I have sold cars myself, I typically have taken an average of Kelley Blue Book and Edmunds private-party pricing to come up with my asking prices, primarily because it's not easy to lay hands on the dealer's/your banker's NADA Blue Book or whatever industry valuation guide is commonly used there. I've found averaging KBB and Edmunds figures come out surprisingly close to market reality. In my region, KBB calls private party value with your mileage, options, condition, etc., at roughly $4500. Edmunds is usually much harder on used values, calling your car at $3100. Still, that's amazing resale value for a *19* year-old car. Averaging will likely get you closer to a sale at or near your asking price in a reasonably quick length of time. Other marketing ideas? Take *more* and better pictures for your ads, showing all angles of the car, inside and out. Try to use a real camera and not your phone, light things up/use a flash, even in daylight, so shoppers can see the condition of the interior clearly. One other crazy idea? Get the car detailed *very* well and take it to your next area car cruise night, be it for domestic or import metal. Show it off. Seriously. In a major metro area, there's plenty of people who know what your car is, and would recognize the quality and value (well, duh.. it's an LS--they clean up very well... I've taken my '94 to cruise-ins before--it was fun!). That might be a venue to consider if you want to expose it to a potentially more knowledgeable market. Can't hurt, might help. Hope this helps. Good luck! Best, Paul
  5. 1 point
    The reservoir seems to be part of the fan shroud.
  6. 1 point
    I bought a 2002 and that was my first question for the dealer. He said it was not an option but there had been many requests. I asked him why there was a rounded indention in the trunk. His answer at the time was that in some countries a spare tire was required, but in the U.S. the decision was made not to offer a spare and fit the car with the new "run flat" tires. I bought a nice battery rechargeable air pump and it has been in the car ever since.
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
    Hopefully you can get some benefit from the attached files. Good luck. RX300_1998-2003_Workshop_Repair_Manual__WhereEverybodyKnowsY.pdf RX300 - Body Electrical Diagrams .pdf RX300_-_Repair_Manual_.pdf
  9. 1 point
    Move to the northeast. Your problem is that you are in California where it is always sunny. In the northeast it is about always cloudy so you won't have the problem. ;)
  10. 1 point
    If it's water and not coolant, I would suspect a blocked A/C drain.
  11. 1 point
    Too bad they don't use Apple systems in their cars. That way people wouldn't have to understand folders and fat things.
  12. 1 point
    no rubbing issues ? I want to do a 245/45/18 on a 18x8 35offset rim cant seem to find any info as to fitment most tire websites suggest 235/45/18 any input from any would be appreciated.Thanks
  13. 1 point
    This is an excellent technical review of the new GS350-F. Lots of features explanation and the same with brake rotors, aluminum frame benefits, and use of "Sport" settings and reduction of steering effort. Check it out and give everyone you opinion on the GS350 F sport. Beyond performance, I like the adjustable side bolsters in the front seats. Paul
  14. 1 point
    I always think heater core. Does the water have a smell?
  15. 1 point
    EDIT: I live in south Florida and drive a '93 LS400 with the same wet headliner problem. There is nothing you can do to keep water from leaking past the moon-roof. It is designed to pass some water, that's why there is a catch-pan underneath. I wanted to replace the moon-roof gasket and was told by Lexus that the gasket itself was un-replaceable and that a new moon roof (just the glass with gasket) would cost $900. They did NOT say this would "fix" the leaking. I have the factory service manual and I can tell you that removing the headliner and sunroof assembly is not simple. The rear seat has to be removed, side pillar covers, window trim, seat belts all need to be removed in order to remove the headliner, it is at least a whole day, if not 2 day project. UPDATE (03/03/2014): I finally got it nicked. After removing the entire headliner, sunroof & tray assembly I noticed an accumulated layer of fuzzy crud in the bottom of the sunroof drain pan. Apparently this layer was absorbing water and slowing the progress of water trying to drain out of the pan. After cleaning this crud out and cleaning all hoses, drains etc. I replaced the assembly and waited for rain. When it rained I discovered that (arrgh!) Lexus had punched a bunch of holes in the drain pan for rivets, cable-runs, etc. and ALL of these were dripping water. NO WONDER the headliner was wet! A tube of silicone sealed the rivets and I had to unscrew the two cable-run housing assemblies from the drain pan (front, L & R) to goop them up with sealer. Re-assembled and waited for rain (not a long wait in FL). No water leaking from tubes, no water from rivets, housings, etc. and no overflow from drain pan. I can see rainwater flowing out of the drain pan through the drain tubes. My LS400 is again (relatively) watertight!
  16. 1 point
    ...and for posterity sake, exactly which fuse did you replace? Thanks.
  17. 1 point
    For anyone looking at this thread Metra finally made a dash kit. They have wiring harnesses as well. I will Post a link to the site so you can get the product numbers. I would recommend just typing in the numbers and find the parts on Amazon or Sonicelectronics. They are much cheaper there than at a best buy or retail store. If the link doesn't work just go to Metraonline.com Good Luck! Hope this helps http://metraonline.com/vfg
  18. 1 point
    how did you deal with the plastic cover? did you remove it completely or did you drill a hole to run the kit's wires through?
  19. 1 point
    wow, up 3 sizes on the width from 215's to 245's and no clearance issues, good to know with that in crease in width on a 20'' wheel I am surpried the handling isn't a dramatic difference by just increasing tire pressure on the stock 215/55-17's from 30psi to 36psi I had a very noticeable handling improvement
  20. 1 point
    My GX 470 2004 has the same Paint problem like yours !Suspecting this issue is manufactured company's faults ? The paints on rear bumper's coner was unexpecting peeled out like snake's skin ...!?! What's a shame for this kind of luxury cars maker !They don't even care to learn how to paint the right way huh ? Very disappointed and will think twice when we have to buy this kind of cars next time !!!(from Baltimore,Maryland) :cries:
  21. 1 point
    No problem, That's one of the reasons were here, Happy to hear that all is well in your garage
  22. 1 point
    I beleive it is a cr1216 battery, Get yourself a small jewelers phillips head screwdriver and remove the scvrew at the base of the fob, Open it up and simply replace the old battery, Reverse order to put it back together and your done. ;) Buy a couple extra batteries and keep them with the screwdriver in the glovebox. B)
  23. 1 point
    .I had the same problem turned out to be clogged drain holes in the sunroof. here is how to fix get a plastic straw as it fits perfectly into the holes located front right and left corners. incert straw just a little now get weed wacker cord which is thick and feed it through the straw (the straw acts to strighten weed wacker cord) so it can feed through the drain tube althe way to the bottom of the car and it will clean it out. Here is what not to do, do not use compressed air to blow tube clear as it may dislodge the drain tube which then requires taking out the roof liner etc.
  24. 1 point
    Strangely, the door speakers in the Nak get fewer watts of power than the door speakers of the std Pioneer but the Nak speaker in the back window gets about 90 watts more than the one with the Pioneer. Personally I wish my car didn't have the Nak. I bought a telephone interface harness from Dashmount in the UK but found out it only works on the std Pioneer and Nav audio systems. If I had the Pioneer or Nav, I could completely interface my Nokia car kit - mute the radio on a phone call, play the call through the door speakers, even power the phone kit from the amplifier under the front passenger seat - its "plug and play". I should sell the interface cable on "Buy and Sell" - somebody might like to use it.
  25. 1 point
    Well, this won't be much help, but for what's it's worth, I'm having the same problem on my '92, except the light won’t go off (meaning trac control won't come on). Similar to your problem, my switch does not click or appear to engage. When I asked the dealer about it at a recent visit, they informed me the “Trac Accumulator” (which I gather is the brains behind the system) had gone bad and I needed a new one at a cost of about $800. I passed. Would be curious to know if you find a fix though. Good luck!

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