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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/29/2019 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    The general rule is that if a repair or repairs within a short period of time are equal to or greater than 50% of the value of the car, then it may be time to buy a replacement vehicle.
  2. 1 point
    Have you tried this tape? https://www.consumerreports.org/car-maintenance/how-to-protect-your-car-from-rodents/ This does seem to be infestation season. I've never seen so many lizards, snails, mice, and rats. I think the heavy rains we experienced in March is the impetus. For 4-5 mornings in a row, at about 5:00 AM, we could hear a chewing sound coming from the walls. It shifted from two different rooms, downstairs to one room, upstairs. It sounded like the object being chewed on is fairly hard, not soft like wiring or wood. Suddenly, it has not returned for the last two mornings. Hopefully, it will not return.
  3. 1 point
    Warranties are not affected by the installation of tow hitches unless it can be proved that the hitch caused the failure of a vehicle component. If a hitch is super important to you then it's best to verify that a hitch is available before purchasing a vehicle. The cost of custom fabricated hitches can vary wildly. I suggest getting several bids. I'm going to have a class II trailer hitch fabricated for a new mid-engine Corvette C8 convertible so I can plug a bike rack into it and I won't be surprised if the total cost is well over $1,000 but that's a nit considering it's an $80,000+ car. I will provide a detailed design to the fabricator.
  4. 1 point
    Here one in Austin that advertises custom hitches: https://www.spillarhitchestx.com/ There might be others - try searching Google, Yelp, etc.
  5. 1 point
    https://parts.lexusofroseville.com/p/Lexus__/COMPUTER---ENGINE-CONTROL/63612676/8966150303.html P/N 89661-50303 superceeds P/N's 8966150300; 8966150302; 8966150304 Your ECU may have been replaced. It depends on production date of your chassis and the date that the supercession of the part occurred. IOW, your chassis may have been in-process on the production line with the 50302 when the 50303 was put into production. Odds are that it was replaced at some point after production. I got the old service records from the local Lexus dealer for my car when I bought it used from Carmax in 2008. These records may some of your questions. Regardless, the ECU you want is the latest part number. It will have the most recent calibrations.
  6. 1 point
  7. 1 point
    It looks like the crushed gasket of the filler hole caused the mess at the filler hole.
  8. 1 point
    Replace the solenoid is pretty easy and straight forward, difficult part is to identify which one to replace.
  9. 1 point
    Check this thread out. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/910181-ls-400-how-to-replace-transmission-solenoid.html
  10. 1 point
    I couldn’t agree with you more that ordering a car the way you want it is always the best way to go. I’ve ordered close to 40 new cars over the years and was always very pleased with the results with the exception of one time they delivered my car with a V6 instead of the V8 that I had ordered. How they screwed that up I couldn’t tell you. I told them I didn’t want the car. That’s when they knew they had a major issue and decided to discount the car dramatically to sell it to me. The horsepower rating between the V6 and the V8 was not much but to me it was the principle of it. Since our current ES350 was on the dealer inventory getting the POE to do the PPF install is no longer possible. So, we will have to find a local installer, unfortunately. I’ll be doing my homework in advance to ensure I get someone with a good reputation. I haven’t driven a C8 Vette yet, but have read and heard a lot of good things about them. The mid-engine design is actually a long time coming in my mind. I’ve had several Corvettes over the years with the last being a 2002 Z06. I scared the heck out of the salesman on the test drive when I hit 130mph as we accelerated onto I-95. He was happy once we returned to the dealership and I told him I would buy it though. I sold it the following year when I ordered a 2003 Mustang Cobra. That was the first year Ford installed a supercharger on the engine from the factory. It was rated at 390/390, but were way underrated. I had mine dyno’d after 500 miles on it and it put down 387 at the rear tires. The sound of that S/C was mesmerizing. It is still one of the only Mustangs that is holding its resale value, especially low mileage unmodified cars, when you can find one. I have no doubt you will love that C8. The performance numbers are incredible for a car with just under 500hp. What you get for the cost of that car is also amazing. I don’t know of any other vehicle that can perform like that for the dollar. GM did their homework and I suspect they will be getting customers from a lot of other brands. Getting in and out of it may prove to be a bit of a challenge, but worth it once you start driving. I tried to register on the ClubLexus site but apparently I am already a member as it would not register me and said the email I provided was already registered. Since I can’t remember the username or password I sent an email to the administrator to see what he could do for me. Thank you again for all your assistance. You have a great weekend !!
  11. 1 point
    Several Toyota models (e.g. Highlander, Sienna) used the same brake system that the 2010-2015 Lexus RX used - rotors, pads, everything. I don't remember about the RX but I do remember there being a service campaign that addressed brake disc warping and vibration on the generation 3 Sienna. I have a 2014 Sienna but mine never developed the problems. I did modify components under the vehicle that directed brake cooling airflow per the service bulletin "just in case". I've wondered why I've never had the problems reported by many others especially since my Sienna Limited is heavier than any Highlander or RX and likely stresses the brakes more. One reason might be because I've paid extremely close attention to lug nut torque. Uneven and/or over torquing lug nuts is a known common cause of brake rotor warping. The correct lug nut torque on the RX, Highlander, Sienna and most other vehicles manufactured by Toyota is only 76 ft. lbs. An air wrench should never be used to tighten these lug nuts and they should always be tightened with a manual torque wrench. I've had both Lexus and Toyota dealers tighten lug nuts to over 200 ft. lbs. on too many occasions. One service manager swore that his mechanics never used air wrenches on lug nuts but I then watched as one of his mechanics had to use an air wrench to remove the lug nuts that one of his mechanics had just over-tightened. I've learned to always check lug nut torque with my own torque wrench after someone else messes with my wheels. If I hadn't done that, I wouldn't have been able to change a flat tire on one trip. So ... my 2014 Sienna that has the same brake system as the 2012 RX and is on the original brake rotors and pads front and back at 94,xxx miles. Based on the wear rate, I'll have the original front and rear pads replaced at the same time and the original rotors turned at a little over 110,000 miles when the pads will by then be worn down to the 1 mm minimum specification. Yes, only 1 millimeter of pad thickness is the minimum specification for most Lexus and Toyota vehicles. 1 mm looks scary to the uninformed which is why so many people get scammed into premature brake work. On Lexus vehicles that have electronic brake pad were sensors, the low pad warning in the instrument cluster starts when a brake pad is worn down to about 1.5 mm. My recommendation is to buy a torque wrench if you don't already have one and check and re-torque lug nuts after each time someone removes and re-installs your wheels.
  12. 1 point
    IIRC, the warranty extension on this problem was to 10 years from the car's in-service date but I suggest you take your car to a Lexus dealership and confirm. It doesn't, or at least didn't, matter if you aren't the original owner. 10 years past the in-service date is a common period for a warranty extension like this. A similar 10-year extension was recently announced on several expensive components on one of our Toyotas after a class action lawsuit settlement.
  13. 1 point
    I suppose you could open the trunk pass through door behind the rear seat armrest. If your LS430 had the Ultra Luxury package with the separate rear HVAC system, that might have been why its trunk temperature was closer to that of the interior.
  14. 1 point
    undefined :cries: Help, have 2002 ES300 purchased 1/02 with 27,000 miles. Car is washed weekly & is garaged. The alloy rims are starting to blister. Any one else have same problems?
  15. 1 point
    This is the best online tutorial for your car that landar put together. Try to see what you have been missing. 98 1uz-fe Timing Belt And Water Pump Replacement How_to
  16. 1 point
    This job is not difficult theres 4 bolts to remove the seat just be careful with the connectors underneath especially if there is an airbag. Pull the carpet back to gain access to the connector. The most difficult part is getting enough leverage underneath the car to break the sensor loose.
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    New to foruM I’ve been off-roading my 99 Rx300 for some time. I have some mods and some other stuff
  19. 1 point
    As a way of giving this thread a bump, and thanking the previous posters, I encountered this problem in my 2004 GX this week, and was able to get the replacement relay from Autozone for $16. Easy fix, and the second time I've had to do it (once around 100k miles, and now at 217k miles). Thanks!
  20. 1 point
    I bot a two step plastic unit with a small carpet piece on each step (I think in housewares or etc. I'm getting old and can't remember.) My dog is 65lbs. and I had to work with her to get her to go up the steps, but she finally got the hang of it.
  21. 1 point
    I know this is a late comment, but I just looked here for some info on my Lexus. I'm a retired electronic engineer in medical x-ray, CT etc. and deal with both high voltage and low voltage/high current circuits. I wonder if that quote of 5 ohms should have been <0.5 ohms, as at 12 volts, 5 ohms is a huge amount of resistance and a starter motor would not turn over. Even headlights would draw enough current to severely drop the voltage. The main battery leads + and - are heavy (25mm2 Copper) to reduce resistance. I look for around 0.01 ohm max to the chassis or starter motor. Two headlamps at 65W (130w) will draw 10.88 Amps at 12V ( 130/12 = 10.88A) The resistance of the two headlamps is calculated by R = E ÷ I (E =Volts, I = Amps) Therefore 12v / 10.88 = 1.1 ohm. Therefore even a 1 ohm resistance in the wiring will halve the voltage at the headlights and a 5 ohm resistance will hardly make them glow. The lower the voltage the more important resistance is. This is why AC mains is supplied for great distances at very high voltages- Here in New Zealand we use 230V which can operate with less copper in the wires than in USA at 120V A starter motor may draw say 100Amps (100 x 12 volts = 1200 Watts) and the starter motor will have a resistance of 0.12 ohms. Thus even 0.1 ohm resistance in the wires will approximately halve the voltage and may not allow the starter to turn over. Meanwhile a lot of heat is being generated in the starter leads. I have found there is much confusion in understanding the relationships between Resistance; Watts; Amps and Voltage even in auto and domestic electrical trades. Once you get your head around it, it becomes basic nature. I learned this analogy at College in the 60's - "A Volt chased an Amp thru an Ohm" Likewise, 10 volts will chase 10 Amps thru 1 ohm; and,,, 10 volts will chase 1 Amp through 10 Ohms. The formulas are available online.
  22. 1 point
    Not really unless you are driving under about 10 mph very gently. Even then, range in EV mode is very low. Does the internal combustion engine shut down at least some of the time when you are stopped at a traffic light? If it does then the traction battery is functioning to some extent. If you are doing a lot of highway driving, you might be noticing that the hybrid version of the RX doesn't get much better gas mileage than the regular RX. From the 2008 RX and RX hybrid sales brochures: RX:Fuel Consumption 18/23 mpg (FWD)19 (estimated city/highway) 17/22 mpg (AWD)19 RX Hybrid: Fuel Consumption 27/24 mpg (FWD) (EPA estimated city/highway) 26/24 mpg (AWD) EPA fuel consumption estimates are widely seen as fantasy. We've rarely achieve EPA estimates on our vehicles. For example, my wife's 2012 Prius v hybrid - owned since new - has been averaging only 32 mpg in mostly city (35 mph to 45 mph) driving. It's EPA city/highway estimates are 44/40 mpg. Of course, the battery in her Prius is over 7 years old and might be getting weak although the car has only 43,000 miles on it. Her low city fuel economy could be related to her rarely driving more than 15 miles/day and there aren't many traffic lights or downhill slopes that would trigger regenerative braking on the routes she takes. Traction battery charging is totally dependent on regenerative braking. I have to assume that a Lexus dealership could test your traction battery and the regenerative system for health. If your traction battery is weak and you want to replace it, there are several companies that sell re-manufactured ones ... like: https://greenbeanbattery.com/lexus-rx400h-hybrid-battery-replacement/ A traction battery supplier like Green Bean Battery should be able to tell you if traction batteries for new model years can be used in your RX.
  23. 1 point
    I received a letter from Lexus saying they may reimburse people for this if they have painted their cars. My car had gotten so bad that I finally had it painted after I found a place to do it. They did it for $2500 and they painted my whole car from the molding up Looks so much better now. It was awful beforehand
  24. 1 point
    My wife bought this LS400 in late 1990 and she is now looking to buy a different car. For the most part, it has been an excellent vehicle and we have enjoyed driving it. For the first 10 years or so, all of the maintenance was done by the local Lexus dealer. Since then, I have done most of it and I have the journal entries for the significant events. For its age, it is in pretty good condition and I'm trying to decide whether to just trade it in or sell it separately. The left front fender has some minor damage but I have a replacement (same color) not yet installed. Other than that, the body is in very good condition (no salted roads in Oregon). If anyone has an interest in a relatively low mileage LS400, let's talk.
  25. 1 point
    Like everyone before me, I hate the RFT's. I don't have to mention all the abysmal behavior that they cause for this nice car. The big difference with me, and most posts is that I didn't buy this car to win the Grand Prix. I want it to be luxurious first , and very sporty second. Any set of rims that has a 5 bolt holes with a 114.3 MM bolt pattern, and an offset of between 35 to 50 MM will work fine on your SC-430. There is plenty of room in the fender wells. So If you have leaking rims, or don't like the looks of the "Plates, " feel fee to buy just about anything you want with the above spec. 16" through 20" rims are just fine, and will not interfere with your brake calipers. Changing tire size and diameter does not, I repeat, does not adversly effect the handling or tracking of the vehicle. I choose to get not only a comfortable ride, but tires that last about four times as long as the RFT's. I chose the Michelin Primacy MXM4's. These are super quite, very long life, have extremely great handling, and they looks really stylish on the car. The size I got was the 245x45R17. The reason I chose this size is that they have the same tread width for traction, and the same diameter 25.7", so the speedometer stays accurate. Additionally the 45 side wall ratio gave a nicer smoother ride with superb handling. See my Member photo. I bought a set 17" X 7.5" X 40mm offset Velox Borzoi rims from Costco for under five hundered dollars, and the tires under eight hundred dollars. The best money I ever spent on the car! I am just delighted with this choice and strongly recomnd this to anyone who is tired of their SC-430 riding like a truck!
  26. 1 point
    Thanks for the input, the car is at mechanic shop today, should have some more info on noise issue.
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    Cool. Let me know what parts you end up using. If you dont need the parts today, I would suggest ordering online and saving a significant amount of money. Paul
  29. 1 point
    Check the alternator. This is an indication that your alternator mat not be charging properly. I assume that this occurs when the engine is hot, with lights and ac both on. I have had this problem. My mechanic sort of gave up calling it an age issue, and recommended replacing the 80amp alternator with a 100amp ... Seems to have resolved my problem (same as yours)
  30. 1 point
    Well I hope the German brand you have now isn't Mercedes, BMW or VW/Audi! If so, then your troubles are just beginning. The vehicles I've owned that were manufactured by Toyota have been infinitely more reliable and of higher quality than the German vehicles I've owned. My last Mercedes, purchased new, was on its 3rd engine when I finally dumped it and bought a new Lexus LS.
  31. 1 point
    I believe if it has the air ride suspension and Nav System it is worth 15,000. Try to find a UL in good condition with the air ride. There are almost none available.
  32. 1 point
    Barbara H, I agree with paying to get another diagnosis, as hopefully you might get an explanation as to why the trunk release and fan speeds are affected with your nav screen issues. That said, a recent 2 part YouTube video on a Subaru water leak caused a TPMS failure (module is under the driver's seat in a subie and shorted out due to water flooding) that also caused the radio to malfunction, the speedometer not to work, and a complete communications failure of the diagnostics system for the car. Once the car was dried out and the TPMS module replaced, the radio, speedo and OBDII communications all started to work again. What I'm getting at is that many of your car's systems' issues can sometimes be caused by just one part failure. Maybe they are all related? Your best bet after the 2nd diagnosis is a refurbished unit if it backs up your first diagnosis. Its the cheapest route for you on a 9 year old car. (And no, you can't have the one from my wife's car.) Good Luck!
  33. 1 point
    Looks like it's designed just for you and Mongolia!! Paul
  34. 1 point
    There are too many possibilities to speculate which is why you need a trained tech with appropriate equipment to diagnose. If I had to guess, the problem might be a defective spark plug coil. But a defective engine or transmission mount could cause a similar vibration.
  35. 1 point
    All prices are local. See what similar cars are selling for in your area. KBB private party sale value where I live in the Midwest for a 2001 LS UL in that color with that mileage in Good condition is between $4,916 and $7,245 which I think is unrealistically high. A 2006 LS UL with similar miles in a more desirable color with the optional PCS/DRCC package could bring $10K to $13K here if it is in KBB Good condition. It's a shame these cars aren't worth more but there isn't much demand for old Lexus sedans - even originally expensive ones.
  36. 1 point
    Drove some muddy trails last night. The car did way better than i expected.
  37. 1 point
    Is there a product that I can install tha twill give me AUX input in my non Nav stereo? I would like to hook up my Sirius. This is on a 2000 LS400.
  38. 1 point
    installed these moldings myself..as per previous post..
  39. 1 point
    Anything can break at any time. If you happen to be Irish, that means often.
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    Thanks for the compliments :) By convert i meant you can simply buy the OEM HID version Rx330/350/400h headlights and switch them out with yours. The headlights size and bolt patterns are exactly the same (not 100% sure- but based on experience, it tells me they are). You don't need to take the headlights apart at all. The wires for the ballast etc can be accessed from outside of the headlights, so you should be good with that too :) Now, there are TWO "types" of the HID Rx330/350 version headlights. Obviously there's the halogen type (the type you have) but there are TWO different types for the HID headlights- which look exactly the same from the outside, so it can be tricky. The first HID version has an HID projector and bulb, with only the auto-leveling. (No AFS function) The second HID version uses a similar HID projector and bulb, but has the components for both the auto leveling AND the AFS system. Aka some 04-09 Rx330/350's out there have HID without the AFS. So if you see an Rx330/350 with HID's, it still not might have AFS. The 06-09 Rx400h's all came with the HID with AFS, but the Rx330 and Rx350's mixed and match. The only way to tell the difference between "HID with AFS" and "HID without AFS" is by looking at the back side of the headlights. I don't have pics, but when researching the headlights you should be able to tell the difference. Some sellers might say "non-AFS" and "AFS" to differentiate the two, but it's best to look. Just don't assume because you see the projector that it must have AFS... The last thing you want to do is get the right side headlight being the HID AFS version and the left side headlight the HID non-AFS version. You'll be able to tell the difference in output and cutoff line shape between the two ;) If you want, you might want to get the HID non-AFS version headlights, this way you can avoid having to worry about aiming the AFS motors... BUT, the projector used in this non-AFS version headlight does not perform as well as the AFS version headlight projector. Personally, i would get the HID AFS version headlights just for the better output :)
  42. 1 point
    It seems that I might have a similar problem. At speeds of 120/130 km/h the engine seems to hold back when you lift off the gas pedal and than want to accelerate again. You have to really punch it to pick up speed again. Same thing happened on a roundabout at 20/30 km/h when it had to be really kicked to get some speed again. But it happens only every now and then. Now I want to check the pedal position sensor and the connector / multiplug as described in this topic. Can anyone point it out to me (pictures??) because my wife has to look at it since I'm in a wheelchair for the moment. Michel
  43. 1 point
    I finally got the stock sub working with my aftermarket stereo. No audio integration harness is needed. All you need is a RCA to speaker wire cable and tap into the Sub + and Sub - wires (black wire and white wire). I was following the diagram http://www.intellexual.net/faq/lexusstereo.swf for Socket D and it lists the Sub + signal as D1 and Sub - signal as D5 ; however that did not work so I thought maybe I was looking at the diagram backwards. So I tried tapping the speaker wire to D4 and D10 and heard the subwoofer. So it appears you need to tap into D4 and D10 instead of D1 and D5. Great day. Got the subwoofer working and installed the double DIN Metra kit.
  44. 1 point
    I am wanting to raise my GS300 up on jack stands to in order to remove all four brake rotors for service. Where is a safe place to lift the car with a floor jack other than the scissor jack points on the side of the car? There was a previous message on this back in 04, but the question was never answered. Thanks for the help.
  45. 1 point
    Actually lexus082 solved the problem for me. My gf is the primary driver of the car and she took out the cigarette lighter since she didn’t want anybody smoking in the car and she never covered it. There was a penny in the lighter that blew the fuse. We didn’t know about it because we didn’t use the cigarette lighter and I was unaware until lexus082 told me that the fuse also was for the environmental control unit. Removing the penny and changing the fuse solved the problem. Once again thank you for your help and hopefully some day I will be able to help someone else the way you have helped me.
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    It is rather simple and not much to worry about . To remove the wheel disconnect the battery for atleast 10 minutes.You will lose all memory radio and time settings. This will discharge the SRS system, it only needs about 1 minute but i would rather wait longer. You will need to remove the side flaps to get to the torx screws at each side. This will loosen the airbag ,after that you have to attach a steering wheel puller to pop off the wheel which is flanged incase the nut falls off. Just disconnect when you are done ,that is it.
  48. 1 point
    Thanks for your reply- I'm new to this site so can you help me with searching under the threads- show I just use the search button?
  49. 1 point
    I don't know if this is where I am supposed to post this, so I hope this is the right place... I have a 2000 RX 300. I love it BUT I have had a few problems, and the main one that is driven me crazy since my 10,000 check up, is the rattle vibration noise at the dash on the drivers side.., The dealership service dept. has tried to fix it with no results, it still makes that noise..... Not all the time, but the majority of the time. My car is now 5 yrs old with 45,000 miles on it. I am the original owner, I am very particular about my car and keep it looking new. I have just recently noticed the hesitation with the transmission that has been mentioned, and my car as I post this is being serviced, so I hope they do fix it. My glove box has to be slammed to shut, they supposedly adjusted it the last time it went for a check up.... but it still needs to be slammed hard to close. So that has been my experience with my Lexus.. BUT like I mentioned at the beginning of this post.... I do love my Lexus!!! I also want to mention that I do like the RX 300 better then I like the RX330. It feels alot more spacious inside. The only thing I like better about the RX 330 is the turning radius.
  50. 1 point
    Okay, got my manual with me...Before you check any fuse, turn your key to "accessories" position or "on" position, do not start the engine. See if your lighter works. The pressure created from the heated coil is what makes the lighter pops out. If the light doesn't work, it obviously won't create any presure so it won't pop out. The fuse you are looking for is fuse #5, rated at 15 amp. This is located in the Driver's side kick panel. Exit the car, duck under the steering wheel and look up just above the gas pedal. You should see a fuse box. It is covered with a plastic cover. This is driver's side kick panel. You are looking for FUSE #5

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