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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/19/2023 in Posts

  1. I was also sold this "invisible" ad on! Only to be told by the dealership "after" that it's not adjustable. So basically it's just a dimly lit thin strip! This should be included. Lexus could and should've done better!
    4 points
  2. Did I mention this?..... I don't like the fact that our governments plan to force us to buy EVs. I wouldn't mind having one, as we already have solar panels and don't pay for electricity, but I think we should be able to choose what we drive (within reason).
    3 points
  3. At the part store they run a load test on the battery that mimics a big draw. If it holds up to a certain voltage it means the battery itself is not weakened yet. As the battery ages it will weaken as in not be able to supply a given amount of cold cranking amps. When its cold the oil thickens some thereby making the engine have to work harder to rotate. Hence the term "cold" cranking amps. I'd say you should investigate why the check engine lamp is lighting up. It could be a sign of what is taking place to cause your car to struggle to crank over. The part store can often "read the code" and determine why the CEL is lighting. My gut tells me your voltage regulator in the alternator is hit and miss. A long time ago that was a little box on the fire wall or fender. These days they are inside of the alternator. It determines how much electricity goes to the engine to keep it running and to the battery to charge it. It only has to be off by a little to keep the engine running but not have extra to charge the battery. Another issue could be a parasitic drain. An out of the ordinary draw on the battery when the car isn't running. In my 04 GS 300 for example the CD changer kept trying to change discs and the seat memory kept activating. Now I could not hear the disc changer nor was the seat memory moving the seat, but they were drawing on the system leading to a weak or dead battery if I didn't drive the car every day. Yet another issue may be short trips don't allow the battery to charge enough. Example; start the car, drive to a store 10 minutes away, finish there, start car and drive 10 minutes to another store. Never giving the engine a good 30-45 minutes to charge the battery back up to the voltage used to start the car can also lead to the hard to crank or dead battery issue. Hope you find it soon and it's a cheap and easy fix.
    3 points
  4. No reason to upgrade, Those stock wheels are Classic on the SC 😉
    3 points
  5. But you love the Covid virus? 🙄
    3 points
  6. If you really want to know what is not to like about it: I would like a car that drives without polluting. I do not at all mind if it is powered with a battery as long as it is not made in a factory in China using slaves and where the power to the factory come from burning coal. Of course it should not be a battery that would make the car having a much limited range when temperature get down to zero, or some days below that. It would also be needed that the materials to make the battery can be obtained without destroying the planet searching for the materials. Not to forget that there got to be so much of these materials that there is enough to make batteries enough to convert all cars to electric cars. The materials we use to make batteries now are not available in such quantities and the batteries we have now have very limited time where they are holding charge and when no longer really great very expensive to get the materials the batteries are made of out for reuse. That the batteries should be able to keep the power without losing too much when not used a couple of days just like a gasoline car is also useful. Of course it would not be funny if driving through Europe to visit family I would not be able to charge the battery more or less at same speed as filling gasoline on the one I have now. If I am asking too much maybe a battery powered car is not for me. Or anybody else that would like to leave the planet in as good a condition as we received it so our children will not have to repair all the damages we have made to the planet while we were searching for easy found solutions that are actually not solutions. EV cars, the way they are made now, are not polluting less – yes they are – in the streets of my town, but making the batteries, transporting them, charging them with the very “in no way at all” green power where we live actually make EV cars more polluting than driving a well kept little gasoline car. I sure wish that we could find a material that could make batteries last a long time and not just the 6 – 12 years with steadily losing ability to keep charge. It would also be nice if the battery was light and not hard on the tyres that deteriorate more the heavier the car is. If the new batteries were so light that they could be used in air-planes that would really help reduce pollution as the private cars we talk so much about actually are not a major polluter. Why can politicians not understand that even with all they do now for the environment pollution is not going down but increasing? EV cars the way they are now - are for people not thinking about environment: 60% of the electricity in Spain is made from non-renewable s coal, oil, gas; 35% from nuclear; only 5% from renewable sources; just saw that in the electricity bill today. That the 35% from nuclear are not damaging the climate now could put that figure up to 40%. Still 60% of the energy put in electric cars is dirty and utterly polluting. Worldwide numbers are not even that good. This explain why charging an electric car is not really doing any good for the environment. And when the factories making the batteries to electric cars are not informing from where the energy that is used in the factories come from: mean it could be quite a good deal not green, more grey or even black. Considering above-mentioned numbers driving electric cars pollute between 15 and 60% more than if we continued to use the gasoline cars we are driving in now. Would not need new cars with new batteries, just new oil in the engines now and then. https://www.asoc.org/learn/antarctic-ice-and-rising-sea-levels/ But as it maybe already too late to change the way climate is going now, we can just continue the headless way we are used to: https://abcnews.go.com/International/late-prevent-significant-melting-west-antarctic-ice-shelf/story?id=104144755
    2 points
  7. I changed my oil but haven't changed the transmission oil yet. Haven't had any issues with it till recently. I have owned it for a few months now and it just started to act up by not wanting to shift into fourth gear. So it's been parked for the past week. i have just started reading so much on this vehicle that I'm excited then worried then relieved as I continue to learn more and more. I never had any issue so I would chalk it up to I must not know how to read the dip stick or did I understand it. I am so glad I found this group, the fact that I get replys with their past experiences or some what of a direction that helps. I'm waiting on a mass air flow sensor and new coils already did the plugs. Then with I forgot how many videos I must have watched, but I swear it took me longer to change out 2 of the back plugs then it's takin me on any other vehicle to do plugs, oil and filter for both engine and transmission. They make it so that you have to take your vehicle in to a dealer.
    2 points
  8. I like to check when hot and one has gone through all the gears and back in park, Engine off and wait a couple minutes to settle :)
    2 points
  9. I like being alive !!!
    2 points
  10. 2 points
  11. I reached out to the place that sold me the car and they recommended a locksmith they use. He provided same day service, cut 4 keys for me, and programmed them All in for $160. Thanks for the help!
    2 points
  12. Typically, a flashing CEL means that engine damage is eminent (usually catalytic converter damage). In your case, probably due to overly rich mixture or misfires. Perhaps the plug wire repair was temporary? As far as no communication with a scan tool, read here. Not saying this is the problem but it should be towards the top of the "should be considered" list: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/656360-all-my-crazy-lexus-issues-solved-ecu-leaking-capacitor.html Of particular interest from link: MODELS/ENGINES AFFECTED: This issue affects all Lexus & Toyota models with the following engines: 1JZ, 2JZ, 1KZ, 1UZ, 5E, 1G, 3S The following are some of the models affected: ● Lexus LS400 - 1990-2000 (in 1997 and earlier models, the problem is extremely common) ● Lexus SC300 - 1993-2000 ● Lexus SC400 - 1992-2000 ● Lexus GS300 - 1993-1996 ● Toyota Celica GT - 1985 -1998 ● Toyota Supra Mark III (JDM) - 1986-1993 ● Toyota Supra GT - 1995-1997 ● Toyota Supra Mark IV - 1993-2002 ● Toyota Supra Twin Turbo - 1993-2002 ● Toyota MR2 - 1990-1999 ● Toyota Camry - 1987-2001 ● Toyota Soarer - 1992-2000 ● Toyota Aristo - 1993-1996 ● Toyota Celsior - 1990-2000 SYMPTOMS: Please understand that any one of these symptoms can be a sign of ECU capacitors beginning to fail. - You do not need all or most of them to have this issue! Your ECU capacitors are strongly suspected if you have at least one of the following intermittent issues on your Lexus or Toyota: ● problems in getting into diagnostic mode or scanner says "no communication" ● random dropping into "limp home" mode ● weird shifting problems ● OBD port is unresponsive, seems dead ● throwing random fault codes ● engine won't rev out/rev limits at 2000 or less rpm ● engine runs like crap, then suddenly runs fine again ● random not starting or cutting out ● low idle or erratic idle ● often very hard to start, requires starting fluid ● transmission will not automatically shift, only manual shift is possible ● transmission jerks from 1st to 2nd gear, and kinda slips from 2nd to 3rd ● no A/C compressor operation ● idle speed rolling up and down, or sometimes too low and sometimes too high ● speedometer not working reliably ● speed (cruise) control not working ● tachometer not working sometimes ● air bag light flickering intermittently ● A/C going into reset with flashing front defog light (front defog light typically flashing 10 times) ● check engine light on sometimes, but no codes stored, often in concert with ECT light ● ECU not communicating with scanners or not displaying codes with jumper installed ● bad sulfur exhaust smell in concert with not running right above
    2 points
  13. According to Car & Driver magazine, Side note: I have a Samsung 23 Ultra and would NEVER switch to an iphone. My night photos are amazing, I have up to 10X optical zoom, and my stylus can be used to: Remotely advance PowerPoint slides Remotely take photos and videos, up to 30 ft away Translate embedded languages Zoom in to very small text that cannot be pinch-screened Create instant hand-written notes and drawings alone or within photos. I am thoroughly spoiled!🙂
    2 points
  14. It's cheap in the view of things. I don't want to have to replace this motor. I shopped for 9 month before buying my SC430. I have done maintenance that it turned out had already been done. I'm not going to call the prior owner with these types of questions. I save those calls for important stuff. So I did all the fluids a week ago. engine oil it was due and I knew it from the miles I had put on. Transmission fluid was perfect when I dropped the pan, no burnt smell, no metal on the magnets in the pan. Cleaned it all anyway, changed the filter and gasket and added 6 quarts back in. But perfect fluid should have been my clue that it had been done. LOL Get back to the differential, and you guessed it, dumped out perfectly clear, like new gear oil. Let it drain anyway and refilled with 2 quarts. I think most people with these cars keep the maintenance tip top. That is a plus in my book. I intend to keep this car so I like knowing where it stands maintenance wise. Yes it costs a little money but I do believe it helps the cars last. And that's why I picked a Lexus and not a Mercedes or other cars of this type of styling. If you want to gamble on maintenance there are plenty of other models of Lexus cars or others out there to do that with. But I bought this car because it's becoming a classic and its got the Toyota drive train. I plan to keep the car the rest of my life and enjoy it for all that time.
    2 points
  15. Thanks for the advice it is much appreciated. Now that it has been bleed correctly. I now have power with no leaks.
    2 points
  16. Yes, indeed, John! Jeff, to fully answer your questions: The Continental Pure Contact tires are great, in my opinion. When I drive the RX, I am mostly very conservative, especially now that gas is almost $6/gallon. As with most all-season tires on a heavy vehicle, aggressive cornering will solicit slight squeals from the tires. The advantages of these tires are longer life and quiet/smooth ride.
    2 points
  17. I am an 2023 IS500 owner, for an almost $70,000 car, it does not have a place for your phone, Lexus did a very very poor job of not updating a 20 year old interior! I’m disappointed there’s no space for my sunglasses on the ceiling space, no wireless charger, wire coming from center storage, the speedometer display is so tiny, I had to take my eye off the road while driving. I’m totally disappointed with Lexus’s CHEAP DESIGNS! The ok thing is the V8 & the 1,800 watts stereo. Even the V8 @5.0 L. IS SLOW @ 4.4 Sec. (0-60mph)! 472 Horse Power should be under 3.5 sec., but Lexus blew it again with a slow 4.4 sec., not acceptable. I regret buying this new Lexus IS500, I should of buy a Mercedes AMG instead. The handling of the IS500 is barely sporty!!! Disappointing, Lexus did a lousy job of creating this new IS500!
    2 points
  18. Do like Eric Burdon - paint it black
    2 points
  19. Many of which look ridiculous on the car.
    2 points
  20. Thanks for the encouragement, my friend used a 1/2 in. hex socket and an 18in. breaker bar and with a little effort broke all of them free. I may need a gut check when working on this car...lol
    2 points
  21. re: 400h Thank you for your reply. I'll have to jack it up and check. I happen to have a new crush washer for the drain bolt. I hope I can use that one.
    2 points
  22. The spec sheet that Lexus of Birmingham gave me for the ES300h shows these two add-ons: WOOD TRIM WITH AMBIENT LIGHTING $740. ILLUMINATED DOOR SILLS $400 Can you possibly imagine the sheer excitement as I finally got it home in the garage and hit the automatic garage door opener, and then in the dark, I see this pale blue strip highlighting the edge of the dash? And I only paid $740 bucks plus an additional 4% sales tax? Followed by the thrill of opening the door and seeing a crummy advertisement projected onto my garage floor ("Lexus of Birmingham") for $416. what a RUSH!!
    2 points
  23. Fixed! Put the transmission in neutral, took off the bolts and rotated the driveshaft. Tightened everything down and drove it and it was connected back the right way. Thank you to everyone for your help!
    2 points
  24. https://youtu.be/vnOM7RfgP1A this is about as easy as diy projects come. No tools needed and instant results!
    2 points
  25. Hi everyone, I want to you my latest addition to my RX330. A custom design and fabricated prerunner bar with a skid plate. Going to add lights in the future.
    2 points
  26. Not a fan of vertigo either. Drunk without the alcohol. But.... no hangover so there is that. And whoever invented covid 19.... I don't like that person.
    2 points
  27. This partially why I gave up riding a motorcycle to focus on convertible sportscars in which I can drive with shorts and a tank top during Summer months.. 😏
    2 points
  28. I hate the common cold...
    2 points
  29. Hi all, been the better part of a year since I had reason to pop onto the forums. This post isn't looking for help, but instead offering some friendly advice on doing this job in a different way than the service manual describes (especially for those with back issues like me, because this way, the alternator comes out the top). I recently had my alternator drop out on my '98 LS400 (1UZFE VVT motor), and although I have the service manual, I decided to follow a different path with removing my alternator, because the service manual calls for complete removal of the power steering pump, which I found unnecessary. Instead, I followed the following steps (photos to come at a later date to make it easier to follow along) Tools you'll need- One each 10, 12, and 14mm wrench and socket. (One stubby ratchet or short 12mm wrench will come in handy, but isn't absolutely necessary) also a few extensions. Optional but recommended- One fan clutch removal tool. I have found that this style works best. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/product/22983568 If you don't use a specialty tool like this, you will need a second 12mm wrench. Also recommended is a flex-head ratchet 1. Disconnect negative cable from battery and set away from the terminal to prevent accidentally shorting your electrical system later. 2. Remove all intake ducting, up to the throttle body. There are several vacuum lines attached, as well as a PCC hose. There are also a few 10mm bolts securing the intake. 3. Remove the cooling fan and fan clutch. There are four 12mm nuts holding the fan clutch on the pulley, and this is where you will use the removal tool (if you have it) to make your life easier. You can get away without a specialty tool with loosening each nut by tightening another, and on the last nut, using the box end of a wrench to gain some leverage on a stud where the nut has already been removed. You can pull the fan clutch out the top without removing anything else, just be careful not to hit into the radiator and damage any fins. 4. Remove the serpentine/drive belt. A 14mm wrench on the tensioner, and to loosen the tensioner, you rotate it in the counterclockwise direction. Slip the belt off the idler pulley, and after releasing the tensioner, you can remove the belt. 5. Loosen your power steering pump and reservoir- three 10mm bolts secure the reservoir, and three 14mm nuts and bolts secure the pump. Two fasteners are hidden on the bottom side of the passenger side cylinder head, right towards the front. A flex head ratchet works wonders here, otherwise you'll need extensions to get them from underneath the vehicle. You'll be able to use a ratchet on all these bolts, but not the 14mm nut securing the pump from the front, because it's blocked by the power steering pulley. You will NOT need to remove any hoses, but you will need to flex the reservoir around a bit to shift the whole assembly forward a few inches. 6. Now that the power steering pump is out of the way (it doesn't need to go far, not even off the stud it's mounted on) this is where you'll break out your stubby ratchet/12mm wrench. It's a bit of a tight squeeze, but you should be able to reach down from the top and pull off the rubber boot covering the alternator lug and loosen the 12mm nut securing the charging cable. 7. Once the charging cable is off, remove the bolt and nut securing the alternator to the block (both are 14mm). Now you can shift the alternator forward and access the wiring plug in the back. It's a standard pinch-and-pull removal, but mine, with 25 years of age and gunk, was stuck on pretty well. The last thing to remove is a wiring loom bracket for the oxygen sensor plug. This can come off with some persuasion, but it's ultimately easier to cut the electrical tape securing the wire to the bracket and removing the bracket once the alternator has been removed. 8. Remove the alternator! With the power steering pump shifted forward, you will be able to pull the alternator forward and off the stud, then straight up and out the top, without spilling a drop of fluids. Re-installation steps and torque values will be added to this post at the same time photos are.
    2 points
  30. Back again with photos. Full disclosure, some pulleys and wiring brackets are removed in the photos, you do not need to remove anything that hasn't been mentioned, they're just taken off to have a better line-of-sight for the camera. Installation is the reverse of removal, and everything slides together fairly nicely. 1. You'll start by sliding the alternator onto the stud, letting it hang. Don't slide it back until you've plugged in the connector on the back and slid the rubber boot over top. Next, you can shift it back further and get your charging cable attached. There was not torque spec in the manual (that I could find) but good practice is to tighten the nut for the charging cable until you can't move the cable side to side. Slide the boot over top of the charging cable after it has been secured. If you were able to disconnect the wiring bracket on the alternator, reconnect it. If you cut the tape, peel off the old tape and wrap new tape around the mount and harness. Next, slide in your bottom alternator bolt and hinge your alternator side to side, lightly pushing on the bottom bolt to find the threads. Once you have both the nut and bolt lightly seated, you can torque them both to 29 ft-lbf. This is what you should look like at this step. 2. Re-install your power steering pump. The pump will slide straight back, if you meet resistance, double check that your reservoir isn't caught on the cooling hoses attached to the coolant reservoir, and turn the body of the pump on the stud to make sure the mount isn't colliding with the cylinder head. The bolt holes are a bit tricky to find, but for reference, the top hole of the two is directly beneath the widest portion of the valve cover, pictured here: The lower bolt is tucked a bit further and just slightly towards the rear of the vehicle. Here's a photo of the mounting holes on a spare cylinder head I have on the bench: Once all three fasteners are lightly seated on the power steering pump, go ahead and tighten them up. The torque spec is 29 ft-lbf for the two bolts, and 32 ft-lbf for the nut on the front. Go ahead and secure the three bolts holding your pump reservoir in as well. If you're reading this guide ahead of time, the bolt holes are marked with a red "X". Make sure you don't miss the one hiding underneath the coolant feed line. 3. Re-install your belt and cooling fan/ fan clutch. Attached is a photo of the belt routing (you should also have the same routing diagram attached to your hood). Torque spec for the fan clutch nuts is 16 ft-lbf. When you install your belt, make sure it is sitting in the grooves properly by hand. If it is misaligned, it can jump off when you start the engine and damage components. 4. Install your air ducting and vacuum/vent hoses, and reconnect your battery cable. You'll need to go through and re-set your clock, radio presets, and memory seats, but other than that, your job is (almost) done! 5. Check your charging system Your alternator is installed, but verify your system is working before setting off down the road. With the engine running, you should have about 14 DC volts. Double-checking this now is the best way to keep from immediately getting stranded with a dead battery, and while you're checking it, you can listen for any abnormal sounds from your engine. Torque values: Alternator mounting nut and bolt: 29 ft-lbf Power steering bolts: 29 ft-lbf Power steering nut: 32 ft-lbf Fan clutch nuts: 16 ft-lbf
    2 points
  31. So for the RX350h, 91 octane or higher is recommended, but 87 is considered to be the minimum value. The RX500h requires a minimum octane of 91, which is the highest octane in CA and some other states like Arizona. The AKI numbers given by auto manufacturers is the average of the Research Octane Number (RON) and the Motor Octane Number (MON)which is (R+M)/2
    2 points
  32. From what I've read the resale value of a Mercedes is really bad after year 3. Not so much for the Lexus. The Mercedes might only command 45% of its sticker price in year 4 where the Lexus over 70%.
    2 points
  33. Much less likely to get shot due to reaching in glove box
    2 points
  34. I have that level of tint on my 2002 ls430. The interior really does look pretty much new. It has 185k but looks like maybe 10k. It's a new car to me but the tint was on it when I bought it and I think it had to help keep it so nice.
    2 points
  35. 2 points
  36. I was tired of looking at the yellow, hazy headlights, so I decided to do something about them today...
    2 points
  37. Just installed the new iOS 17.4 Beta update and it fixed the issue! Works perfectly now.
    1 point
  38. My mistake: turns out it was a problem with Sirius, not the car. The first person I spoke with at Sirius wasn't able to solve it, so I assumed it was something wrong with the satellite connection. However, the second person I spoke with at Sirius was able to "refresh" the connection. Thanks all the same for your input, RX400h.
    1 point
  39. Did you call Sirius/XM? I've called them at times to verify my subscription. They are very helpful.
    1 point
  40. OK this is one of two issues I’m already having and I only have had the car for two weeks. Also have an NX 350 H and I’m getting CarPlay connection errors. I hope this is not the beginning of a lot of frustration.
    1 point
  41. The print & video advertisements for Weather Tech that have made the media s since December 1st tout the 'Made in America' aspect of all their products. If I hadn't already been convinced by the exposure to the 1st rate sales job that their website, and the knowledgeable & personable telephonic sales woman, then the repeated 'Made in U.S.A.' - by Americans- messaging was enough for me to decide. I'll be heading out to the aforementioned dealer to order up a complete set + an extra pkg. of universal trim-to-fit that will get me the 2nd row one-piece, and a pair of front mats for the MX-5 too.
    1 point
  42. Thank you, I will look into those options as I find it hard to believe that the thermostat would go bad after only 6 months. I would imagine air in the cooling system.
    1 point
  43. That's what i have Seamaster Professional . Bought it new many years ago, sold it and bought it back again as have never found a better alternative so will hang onto it now
    1 point
  44. These tires are a game changer for this rig and our cold alaska winters. Ive had them on about 18 months (about 2k miles) and i think im getting a pair for my truck next!
    1 point
  45. Thank you so much! I got two codes, and autozone tested my alternator. your gut was spot on. They told me the voltage regulator, verbatim. As for codes, I got: P0420: Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold ( bank 1) c1201 engine control system malfunction For now, I’m going to get my !Removed! into the engine bay and change the spark plugs + alternator. Thank you so much for the kind words! Really hoping it’s cheap. I want my girlfriend to be as safe as possible on our 6 hour trip. And of course, I love this damn car lol. It’s my second car, and I’d like to have it longterm- at least until we’re forced to drive iphones with wheels. 😄 To follow up: - I wonder if my alternator is wigging out my vsc, which in turn triggers by the engine system code? - Also, would my alternator be causing the o2 sensor wig out in my cat?
    1 point
  46. Hey, Just bought it, premium everything. It drives nice. It is my first car ever and I'm hoping to learn more about cars in general (already learned some interesting facts about run flat tires from this forum).
    1 point
  47. Generally speaking ... on almost ANY forum you may ask for answers ... chances are you'll not get a reasonable response to your question. Most often you will get answers to the question people "think" you asked, or they will share information with you that you NEVER asked for because they want to prove how intelligent they are about a topic they "wished" you had asked about. On rare occasions, such as the one above from RX400h, you will get that rare and specific answer to your original inquiry. Try doing it on ANY MICROSOFT troubleshooter forum ... you will see what I mean.
    1 point
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