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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/25/2018 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    It could be a good opportunity if you really want an LS 500 and especially if you plan to keep it a long time. You might be able to negotiate a even lower price based on the vehicle's history. I read recently that there are still a lot of unsold new 2018 LS 500's so the market for them is apparently very soft. Other than its run-flat tires and no spare tire, my main problem with the LS 500 is the shrinking interior which now has a volume within a tenth of a cubic foot of the space of a 2019 Toyota Camry with its optional moonroof. The Camry we rented 6 weeks ago was actually roomier than an LS 500 since the rental Camry didn't have a moonroof. Of course, Toyota/Lexus is too ashamed of it to publish interior volume dimensions for the LS 500 so it's necessary to go elsewhere to find them: https://cars.usnews.com/cars-trucks/lexus/ls/2018/specs/ls-awd-398085 Lexus LS 500 - Passenger Volume (cu. ft.): 99.4 Toyota Camry (with moonroof) - 99.3 cu. ft. per https://www.toyota.com/content/ebrochure/2019/camry_ebrochure.pdf I know the luxury sedan market has shrunk due to the flight to SUV's but I never expected the Lexus LS interior to shrink.
  2. 2 points
    Trevor, Thanks for the info. You were correct, I had not connected the temp sender wire. It is a bugger of a thing to locate and even more difficult to fit the connector when the entire loom is in situ. The sender unit is tucked in behind the plastic spark plug channel. Done now, so everything is fine. Thanks again, Alan.
  3. 1 point
    I believe if it has the air ride suspension and Nav System it is worth 15,000. Try to find a UL in good condition with the air ride. There are almost none available.
  4. 1 point
    Barbara H, I agree with paying to get another diagnosis, as hopefully you might get an explanation as to why the trunk release and fan speeds are affected with your nav screen issues. That said, a recent 2 part YouTube video on a Subaru water leak caused a TPMS failure (module is under the driver's seat in a subie and shorted out due to water flooding) that also caused the radio to malfunction, the speedometer not to work, and a complete communications failure of the diagnostics system for the car. Once the car was dried out and the TPMS module replaced, the radio, speedo and OBDII communications all started to work again. What I'm getting at is that many of your car's systems' issues can sometimes be caused by just one part failure. Maybe they are all related? Your best bet after the 2nd diagnosis is a refurbished unit if it backs up your first diagnosis. Its the cheapest route for you on a 9 year old car. (And no, you can't have the one from my wife's car.) Good Luck!
  5. 1 point
    Looks like it's designed just for you and Mongolia!! Paul
  6. 1 point
    Lexus GXOR concept looks cool. More info to come
  7. 1 point
    Will tell a friend about it.
  8. 1 point
    IiAccessing Antenna Motor for 2000 LX470 in Ten Steps. The notched plastic cable came lose from my antenna and reeled-in completely into the motor; I could not replace the antenna without first removing that cable from the motor. 1. Remove the mast from the motor, by loosening and removing the bolt that secures it to the car fender. Put this bolt somewhere safe. 2. There is plastic cowling under the passenger-side wheel well. (It’s probably helpful to remove the front right tire/wheel, but not required; I just turned the wheel as far to left as possible and that provided good access.) 3. There are about 8 plastic rivets to pop-out, and two screws; you don’t need to take the piece completely out; just remove enough to gain access to the antenna motor. You’ll probably break the rivets when removing them and you’ll need replacements. You can get these from your dealer, however I found some generic plastic auto-body rivets at Ace Hardware that worked fine. 4. Once you can bend-back the cowling and access the motor, you’ll see the motor is fastened to one bracket with one bolt. Remove this bolt and the motor comes free. 4. It may require a little wiggling, but the motor should drop out. Carefully move the plastic protective cover. And then carefully unsnap the power cable connection. Note: I left the radio antenna wire connected. 5. To open the motor, there are about 5 or 6 screws to remove. It’s very greasy, so surgical gloves were helpful to wear. It’s sealed very tightly with grease, so you have to pry it open. 6. Once open, remove the broken plastic cable and then tightly reassemble the motor. 7. Reconnect the power cable and repackage the motor in the plastic protective wrap. 8. Slide the motor back in place loosely. Before tightening it in place to the bracket, push the mount through the fender mast hole and reattach the nut; this assures it’s at the proper height to be tightly secured. Once this is done, securely tighten the bracket bolt. 9. Now you can remove the exterior fender nut and install a new antenna mast. (Lesson learned: buy an OEM Toyota/Lexus mast. It’s are expensive, but worth it. I found myself in this predicament because I bought a cheap replacement on Amazon.com.) There are a number of posts and “how to’s” for reinstalling a new electric antenna mast ... so I won’t go into those details here. 10. Once you’ve reinstalled the antenna and are confident it’s working correctly, replace and remount the plastic wheel cowling. You should be good to go!
  9. 1 point
    Thanks, i should be able to replace it myself. I just need to make sure i buy/order the right one.
  10. 1 point
    We don't currently have Lexus vehicles but I've bought navigation updates for our Toyotas numerous time with a 15% discount coupon from the Costco Auto Program at a participating Toyota dealership. It should be the same if you have a Costco membership and Lexus dealership near you participates in the Costco Auto Program. If you can do that, it would at least reduce the cost down to $178.50 not including tax. The fall 2018 update should be PT219-GEN08-18. Here is a link to a video that shows how a 2015 GS350 owner updated his navigation system with a micro SD card:
  11. 1 point
    I had a 1996, 2004, 2006 and now 2015.... there is no way that beating you to death is normal. If all the mechahicals are good then that leaves the tires. Trust me on the tires, get Michelin it you want a good ride. You get what you pay for and the other brands WILL impact ride quality.
  12. 1 point
    sha4000, you are correct, the engine is turning but will not start. I did not hear any spark. No codes were read. I show the picture above because I was not sure (at the time) if I installed them correctly. I later found out that the instruction on Lexls was incorrect. The contact points (wire) should be at the yellow arrows (not at the opposite position as shown in the picture below). After fixing the errors, my car is running normal now. If I had taken pictures of the distributor rotors when taking them off, I would not have any issue. The positive outcome from this is I feel more confident with timing belt work since it is more straight forward. Thank you for getting back to me.
  13. 1 point
    Did you make sure that the cam and crank sensors are plugged in? When you say " Does not crank " what do you actually mean? Is the engine turning but just will not start? Lastly are there any codes?
  14. 1 point
    this man can fixit for you jimlwalker@sbcglobal.net
  15. 1 point
    Was the valet key stolen when the car was parked where you frequently park it? If not, the thief might not find your car again. You might be able to have the all the keys "deleted" from the vehicle ECU memory and then have the keys you still have programmed back in. The thief would still be able to unlock and gain access to your car but the stolen valet key could not be used to start the engine. If that is not good enough, yes, you can have the service center replace and program new keys but there will be significant expense to change the door and trunk locks and the ignition switch. Insurance may cover much or all of the cost if you have it.
  16. 1 point
    See if this one works Swigzy Car Cup Holder Expander Adapter with Adjustable Base - Rubber Tabs Securely Hold Large Water Bottles
  17. 1 point
    I don't think the oil change or the sludge would be responsible for the engine cutting out. However, I would look for fault codes and also carry out grass roots diagnostics (checking battery terminals and battery condition and then carrying on through the car one step at a time). It's laborious but does throw up interesting faults that would otherwise go undetected. Check also the fuel quality and drain/refill if suspect
  18. 1 point
    Hey guys, Im new here, my name is Blake and am looking for some advise for the following. My dad owns this 1998 GS400: He has been the owner since new, passed it along to my brother, who dropped it and put the wheels on it. And now its back in my fathers hands and he has been looking to do something with the interior. Mainly replace the front seats for lower milage units or something, but I was at the junk yard looking for some Audi gear, and stumbled across a 430 with near perfect black interior. I've always hated the GS steering wheel, because there is no wood grain on it, and the emblem is just plain. but the 430s steering wheel is beautiful on top of being black. I can acquire the entire interior for $375USD, pretty much anything that is black. I'm no stranger to interior swaps, steering wheels coding, motor pulls, etc, but mainly with Audis. I am aware that it will take a lot of time and patience and to spend this amount of effort like this on an old Lexus is not everyones cup of tea. But its always a good time bonding with the father. My questions are primarily the air bags. I read about the single stage vs dual stage. I am a little unfamiliar with the Lexus electronics. In the Audi world, guys simply wire up the high speed impact to the single stage signal. Not at all what I do, nor want to do here. Its been proven to work in Audis, but still not a risk I take with my Audis, nor my fathers car. I figure for the steering column, I will only be swapping the shrouds, and will still be left with the dilemma of single to dual. I would prefer to keep the from having to purchase a complete RX wheel and air bag which is almost the cost of the swap. Can the air bag covers be modified/swapped? What about the rest of the air bags, like the one in the dash, the seats, does anyone know if they are all compatible? Or is the whole 430 a completely different animal? Thanks guys!
  19. 1 point
    I always apply some PTFE tape (plumbers use it for pipe joints) to the sump plug thread....never had a leak on anything ever since. This originally came about when I owned a Land Cruiser and the Toyota dealer asked whether I wanted the soft or hard compound seal for the plug. I foolishly chose the hard compound and leaked like a sieve. Someone suggested removing it and wrapping a couple of turns with PTFE and it worked a treat...nowadays I use it all the time on the 'belt & braces' principle.
  20. 1 point
    That is crazy, the gasket is a crush aluminum washer. Oh well, we will see.
  21. 1 point
    Have you checked that the plastic casing/cap on the filter housing aren't cracked?
  22. 1 point
    I guess my issue is nothing with the brakes. Its a communication issue with the instrument cluster. Anyone know if I can get a junked cluster or need to deal with a dealership? either way everything is working fine which is good. so it is just a visible check engine light that bothers me.
  23. 1 point
    Still a few of us around though I upgraded to a 430 then 460L I still have the 98 that stays parked most of the time.
  24. 1 point
    dcfish? Whoa! That's a blast from the past. There have been people looking for you asking about navigation and audio systems. I still drop by this forum once a month or so and sometimes try to help. There's not much in the current Lexus lineup of interest to us. Somebody in Nebraska is driving the 2000 LS400 I sold in 2014 ... wish he would change the name/address associated with the car so Lexus wouldn't contact me about it. My daily driver is still the "Lexus of Minivans" - suits us perfectly for our lifestyle these days. Nice to hear from you!
  25. 1 point
    Thanks for the reply. I am having all looked at on Wednesday. I shared your thought on the issues. I appreciate it! Thanks again.
  26. 1 point
    Thanks Trevor for your answer! I have visited Lexus dealer today to they check vibration. Luckily they had a time to check that out. They check balance (did not find anything). Also they make a wheel rotation. Thats all they did. The vibration is now much much lower. Now it feels more like light tingle what could be felt only on good new freeway asphalt. So I probably will wait little while if this gets worse or may be better. This sounds strange that vinbration was almost fixed by the wheel rotation...
  27. 1 point
    Struts are discussed all the time, but my choice is KYB struts and OE mounts....Have put them on RX300 and RX400h and a GMC Yukon....Love these struts. the knock noise is probably broken mount, but could also be a damaged stabilizer bar mount....
  28. 1 point
    So got a reply, said any Toyota dealer can do lease work on a Lexus if no Lex dealer available. Now we know and knowledge is power! 🙂
  29. 1 point
    My guess is a bad cell in the battery itself.
  30. 1 point
    I have a 1999 GS-300 with 130,000 miles on it. Had lots of issues with the vehicle cranking over recently. Got into my car turned the ignition and click, nothing happened. Tried to crank the engine again and click! Nothing again...... My battery was my 1st thought but, my lights were bright and radio and fan were working right. So I saw a couple postings on the lexus owners club and thought I would tackle this job myself. This problem was intermittent, sometimes the car turned over and sometimes it didn't. Recently it would take me up to 10 minutes for the car to crank over and start, so I had to do something. I just finished up the job in about 2 hours (start to finish) and thought somebody might read this and make it useful. So here I go to try and tell you how to fix the starter problem and tell you what tools you'll need. Actually after doing the job it was well worth the effort. The problem turned out to be the "Copper Contacts inside the Starter Solenoid" with a total bill of $5.00 (yep I said Five Dollars if you do it yourself). Before you begin, locate your local Alternator/Starter Rebuilding Shop, you'll need them for the Copper Contacts that are located inside the Starter Solenoid ($5.Dollars) They sold them to me separately. Tools required: Patience, 10mm., 12mm.,14mm.,15mm,16mm socket, socket wrench, universal swivel socket attachment, (2) Extra Long Socket Extensions 12"inches each, 9/32"nds nut runner or socket. So here we go: Step by step 1st Things First - you'll need to disconnect your battery to the car both positive and negative leads. Pop your hood. You need a 10 mm. socket and socket wrench to disconnect the battery. (Remember, you'll lose all your settings on your radio, seat memory etc.... but worth it - and if you have any warning light on your dash, like check engine light they'll go off too after you disconnect and reconnect the battery.) The starter and solenoid are located on the driver side of the car engine. They are piggybacked next to each other in one unit. 2nd - you need to disconnect the transmission dip stick to move it out of your way to get the starter out. (You'll need a 12mm. socket with socket wrench) The bolt is located at the top of the dip stick that is attached to the engine. Feel free to pull the dip stick all the way out and put it in a safe place. You don't actually need to take the outside shell of the dip stick out all the way just pull it out about 4 inches and move it to the right or left, it's attached at the bottom by a rubber wire holding clamp. Just move it aside for now. 3rd - Disconnect the lead wires that are going to the starter, there are two - one is a black push connector that you must push the center button in to remove the wire connector as you pull the wire out, and the other is under the rubber black boot that is the power connection that is coming from your battery. Pull back the black rubber boot and expose the 12 mm. nut that must be removed to get the cable off the starter. You'll need a 12mm. socket and wrench to get this nut off. Once you remove the cable put the 12mm. nut back on the starter so it doen't get lost. 4th - Crawl under your vehicle and take your 14 mm. socket, socket wrench and swivel adapter with you with (2) Extra Long 12" inch extentions, you'll need the extra lengths to get the bolts to turn and free your rachet up to swing and loosen the 14mm. bolt heads. Don't take the bolts out all the way, leave them in housing as long as the starter is able to come out. The only reason I say this is because the starter will be easier to re-install once your done fixing it. Now, take your starter out from the bottom, it's a little tight but it will come out. 5th - Put your starter on a work bench or preferably a Vice to hold the starter in place so it won't fall. Locate the (3) 9/32" inch cover nuts and remove them with a 9/32" inch nut runner or socket. Take care not to lose the nuts. Remove the top cover of the solenoid. Once you remove the top cover you'll see the two copper contacts on opposite sides of the solenoid. Remove the center copper solenoid, be careful because at the bottom of the solenoid is a pointed tip with a long 3" spring that actually pushed the started gear out once powered on with your ignition key. Put this center solenoid off to the side with the 3" Spring. Now locate the two copper contacts on opposite sides of the solenoid housing (these are the contacts that need to be replaced.. these are the parts that are causing all your problems with your starter - all for $5 Bucks, notice how black and pitted the copper contacts are). At this point this is where I actually took my whole starter to a Alternator/Starter Rebuildng Shop in a plastic bag with the solenoid cover off and showed them the starter and contacts and they had them in stock. (The 2 Copper Contacts) were tiny copper 90 degree clips with a 1/4 Moon Shape to them, no larger than 1 1/2"inches and no bigger than a quarter. Once I got the Copper Contacts back home the fun started! I can't believe how little they were and how easy they were going to be replaced for just $5. Five bucks. This was going to save me a ton of money. Now this is where you'll need to take the (2) nuts off the one side of the solenoid, one nut (12 mm.) is where we originally removed the cable wire from the battery and there is another nut that holds the copper contact into place. I think this is a 15mm. socket (but don't quote me on this one - sorry I forgot what size it was), but remove this nut also, this is the last nut holding the copper contact into place. Once you remove the nut you'll be able to slide the copper contact out, but be careful not to lose the thin washer and small rubber O-Ring attached to the Copper Contact Post. One side of the contact is a Rectangular Copper Square attached to a Copper Post the Copper Contact actually slides over the post for mounting purposes. Take note how the contact is positioned because you'll have to re-install the NEW Copper Contact the same way. You can remove the contact now. Make sure you note what Copper Contact goes where, one is larger than the other. Replace the contact with the same NEW COPPER CONTACT and re-install the same way. Now on the opposite side, slide back the rubber boot that is covering the other contact post bolt and nuts. Be careful because their is another small washer and "O-Ring" on the other side too. Take care to remove the Copper Contacts the same way and install the other NEW COPPER CONTACT and re-install the same way. Re-assemble the Nuts in the same manner and tighten. Slide the boot cover back over the post and re-assemble putting the center solenoid back inside the housing, re-install the cover of the solenoid. Your starter solenoid is now complete. Re-assemble everything is reverse order and now your done. Hope this helps the Do-It-Yourself Guys. Any questions, feel free to comment me back. Hope I didn't miss anything.... Blaise
  31. 1 point
    Nice! Thought maybe I should share some more recent pics of my RX, the bumper and skid plates are still a work in progress.
  32. 1 point
    Now you can see how the wheel spacers will give you the extra tire clearance at the perch. I want to say with the 2" spacers on mine it puts the edge of the tire somewhere right at the outside edge of the perch. I could have fit larger tires but went smaller and should probably go to smaller spacers like 1" to 1.5" to fix the edge of my tire hitting the top of the fender when bottoming out.
  33. 1 point
    Yeah, the very inside of the back tires will rub pretty easily on the spring perch if you're not careful with your tire size, especially with a more square tire tread. looks like your current tires are pretty rounded on the inside... the fronts can fit whatever pretty easily.
  34. 1 point
    I think you're stuck with 235/65r17's as your biggest, I had the next gen 235/55r19's and they would sometimes rub going around corners. I can only fit 265/70r17 cause I put 2012 highlander rear struts in it. That leaves you just over 29".
  35. 1 point
    The world of lifting RX vehicles is still pretty small so there aren't exactly any definitive guides but like any other strutted vehicle the same limitations in tire/wheel fitment would apply. The first limitation on my 300 was the rear spring perches because they are squattier than the fronts. Side clearance of the spring perch will limit how tall and wide of a tire you can fit without modification or for a certain offset/spacer. The next limitation for me was rubbing when turned full clock, not acceptable to me and I was able to fit mine with no rubbing. The taller and wider the tire the turning clearance is greatly reduced, its geometry but you can figure it out with a straight edge. Clock the wheels and take a straight edge across the inside sidewalls to the nearest obstruction and you can measure how much taller of a tire will fit without rubbing but leave some cushion. The closest point of the tire should be at the horizontal axis of the tire but make sure you look at fender clearances as well. Just take your time and measure everything until you are absolutely sure your fitment is what you want. You could also likely take it to a custom shop and they should be able to measure or use a jig to tell you what you can and can't fit. I would not recommend bringing the tire tread up past the bottom of the spring perch. If you do and you do not have ample clearances you can easily slash your sidewalls. If you are sticking with stock suspension the steering changes shouldn't be as drastic but just be ready for it to handle differently. I have not had to trim anything for mine and do not have anything rub except when I have 300-400 extra pounds in it and the suspension takes a really hard hit, mostly the rear where the outside tread just catches the lip of the fender. I need a little more travel or slightly stiffer springs in the rear. I think I am also running a larger wheel spacer than necessary (2"). Same thing for the front but don't hit the fender lip unless it is a really really hard suspension hit and I am turning. There is enough travel and clearance in the front if I am going straight over that really hard hit. I do not rub on the inside of the tire when turning but it is the outside front of the tire that hits the fender liner. That is only because it was a cheap aftermarket liner I was in a hurry to get in there to get some protection for my trans cooler before a trip. I had to cut the vents into the plastic and they puckered out into the wheel well so the tire catches them. I need to reinstall it so it fits correctly and likely make a little aluminum plate/grill for the vent slots so that doesn't happen. ***Edit- Brickwall says you have springs and shocks on the rear of yours and not a strut so that makes it a lot easier. You are then pretty much limited by the strut and turning clearance of the front then,
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
    bacosta007, Two possible problems come to mind. The head unit amplifier for those speaker channels has quit working, or ... the connector on the back of the head unit has come loose and is not making contact. If you are a DIYer with car tear down and audio experience, pull the head unit and disconnect the wiring harnesses to it (disconnect the battery first, after copying down the frequencies of all your radio presets). It might be just that simple to correct. If that doesn't correct the issue, check with a Lexus dealership to see if they have an exchange program for the head unit. Years ago (1986 I believe) I had a radio issue with my wife's Toyota Cressida. Toyota had and exchange program where you gave them the old radio to refurbish and they gave you a refurbished unit to replace it with for like $350 or so (long time ago and the details are fuzzy). Maybe Lexus has something similar? Worth checking. Good Luck!
  38. 1 point
    I just purchased a white and beige interior 1996 Lexus LS 400 that belonged to an old lady that never drove it practically. The car was purchased with 9,547 original miles. It is still under 10,000 miles The car looks like it just came out from dealership and still smells new
  39. 1 point
    http://www.lexomans.com/manguide-559.html
  40. 1 point
    Update with a happy ending... So I posted this thread on many lexus blogs and several people responded that I should consider checking all the fuses. One thread suggested looking at the 30 amp AN1 fuse under the big cover in the engine area. That exact fuse was dead. I researched the circuit for that fuse and it controls the ignition including the spark plug coil. I replaced the AN1 fuse and the GX started right up but died in seconds and the fuse was blown again. It also sounded like I had a leaking exhaust manifold on the passenger side. I immediately noticed the spark plug #2 from the firewall on passenger side was coated in soot. I removed the 10mm bolt and pulled on the coil assembly and the top coil box broke away from the coil shaft connected with a tail of copper wire. I pulled on the wire and the rest of the coil shaft assembly came out including the spark plug. Thats right, the spark plug was not screwed in to the head. I replaced the coil pack with a NAPA part, added a new iridium plug, added another 30 amp fuse and it started right up and remained running. This fix ended up taking about 15 minutes and under $100, a big win win. But how in the hell did that plug get so loose. The odor I smelled was the exhaust melting the silicone boot and plastic housing. I ran codes and it came back as a spark plug coil. How awesome is it that I know not a lot about cars and a few hours on the internet and helpful suggestions from people all over got me back on the road - THANKS to all who helped.
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    Move to the northeast. Your problem is that you are in California where it is always sunny. In the northeast it is about always cloudy so you won't have the problem. ;)
  43. 1 point
    no rubbing issues ? I want to do a 245/45/18 on a 18x8 35offset rim cant seem to find any info as to fitment most tire websites suggest 235/45/18 any input from any would be appreciated.Thanks
  44. 1 point
    ...and for posterity sake, exactly which fuse did you replace? Thanks.
  45. 1 point
    guy4rmsky, There are 4 sunroof drain tubes, two up front that exit down the A pillars, and two that run from the rear side channels of the sunroof, and exit down through the C pillar and out between the rear bumper cover and the sheet metal, just back of the rear wheel. If those rear drains are plugged, or the drain hose has come off the tube at the sunroof channel, you'll get water into the back seat area. If the tube has come off, its usually because the plastic tubing has aged and split. Sometimes you can put a long copper tube on the end of a compressor hose, and with the sunroof partially opened, get it back to the rear of the sunroof side channel and blow out the drain tube. The only other way is to pull the weatherstrip from around the rear door, remove the rear seat bottom and back, pop the C pillar moulding off, remove the overhead assist strap, and gently pull down the headliner to get at the end of the drain tube and reattach it or replace it. The only other way for water to get into the back seat area, is through the trunk seal, the tail lights or the rear windshield. Sometimes the shape of the trunk floor will allow water from these areas to flow forward and into the back seat area. You have some detective work on your hands. Good Luck!
  46. 1 point
    My GX 470 2004 has the same Paint problem like yours !Suspecting this issue is manufactured company's faults ? The paints on rear bumper's coner was unexpecting peeled out like snake's skin ...!?! What's a shame for this kind of luxury cars maker !They don't even care to learn how to paint the right way huh ? Very disappointed and will think twice when we have to buy this kind of cars next time !!!(from Baltimore,Maryland) :cries:
  47. 1 point
    her are some helpful wire colors for head unit (thanks DEI) 02 lexus es300 12+ constant blue/yellow 12+ acc gray ground brown illumination + green factory amp on pink/blue all wires above found at factory head unit plug left front spkr +pink -purple right front spkr +light green -blue left rear spkr +black -yellow right rear spkr +red -white all wires above found at factory amp (behind glovebox next to ECM) VSS (speed sense) purple/white found at ECM (behind glovebox next to factory amp)
  48. 1 point
    A bunch of LX engines prior to 02 had the exhaust manifold problem. It tends to crack in an area that is not easily seen, and it gets worse with age. Lexus replaced the ones that went bad during the warranty period. The replacements do not seem to have the problem. If you find a used one, be wary - it may have the same inherent weakness. Ordering the replacements should give you the updated parts - whether from Toyota or Lexus. If you know of a good mechanic, they can replace the manifolds. I just would not get a used part for fear of getting one of the faulty ones.
  49. 1 point
    Actually lexus082 solved the problem for me. My gf is the primary driver of the car and she took out the cigarette lighter since she didn’t want anybody smoking in the car and she never covered it. There was a penny in the lighter that blew the fuse. We didn’t know about it because we didn’t use the cigarette lighter and I was unaware until lexus082 told me that the fuse also was for the environmental control unit. Removing the penny and changing the fuse solved the problem. Once again thank you for your help and hopefully some day I will be able to help someone else the way you have helped me.
  50. 1 point
    There is an under the hood fuse that is 100 amp and also has control over that area of the car.



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