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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/28/2013 in Posts

  1. 5 points
    Hello Everyone, I know IACV has been a huge topic on the forum and I have found various pictures in the RX forum and ES forum on the idle air control valve (IACV) or as others call it the idle speed control valve (ISC). However, I have not found a "step by step" posting to date which definitively shows how to clean this thing so that my car stops giving me idling problems. Symptoms I have had included: - low and rough idling that would cause the car engine to start shaking after starting the car - this eventually got worse to the point that when I start my car, it would not idle unless I gave it gas - idling problems for me tended to occur more often after my engine was warm or had been sitting in the sun I hope these series of postings help you fellow LOC members out there. You've certainly helped me in the past so here's my two cents at this common problem. Additionally, the instructions I give are the way in which I have cleaned it myself. As you go about and attempt this, you may find better ways to do so. Please add and refine my instructions/terminology as needed. I am not a professional. I've only changed my oil, air filters, and conducted minor maintenance previously. The bottom line is that if you have the right tools, you should be able to do this. This discovery/ cleaning took me about 2 hours to do cause I ran into problems and there were major steps left out in previous postings that I’ve encountered read. The next time I do this, I believe I can get this done in about an hour or less. Tools Needed: 1) Tightly fitting Philips Screw Driver 2) Carb cleaner that is O2 sensor safe (I've seen CRC. I used Valvoline Carb Cleaner) 3) Locking Grip Pliers (definitely helped me remove the factory tight screws) 4) Small brush for cleaning 5) Towels for cleaning 6) Pliers (help removed brackets holding the hoses) 7) Latex gloves helps with limit the messiness. * I used the same gasket and did not replace it. No problems found. 1) Remove the hose that comes from the engine/motor that connects to the air intake hoses.( Hose is below in red – we’ll refer to this as Hose A) When you pull back the rubber hose covering, you will see that a metal bracket is holding the hose pretty tightly in place. Use the pliers to clasps the two metal pieces together to loosen the bracket and pull the hose loose. You can also do this by hand if it’s easier for you. 2) Upon removing the hose, you will want to remove the two air intake hoses. Loosen the three screws above in green and remove the hose. Below is a picture of the intake hoses removed. 3)After removing the intake hoses, I opened the lid to the air filter and moved this to the side of the car to create more working room. I believe there are two clips on the right holding the lid in place. Just pop the two clips and move the cover to the side. I also took out the air filter and temporarily moved this to the side. 4)After removing the intake hose, the throttle body/IACV/black electric coil is revealed. At this point, I removed the black electric wire from the black coil. Once the electric wire is removed you can remove the black coil from the IACV by removing the two screws. Note, the screws are factory tight so use a tight fitting screw driver to remove the screws. One of my screws was partially stripped from the dealership’s work, so I had to resort to my locking grip pliers which helped out tremendously. After removing the two screws, the black electric piece pops right off. When the black electrical coil is removed from the IACV, it exposes a small pencil sized metal stud. You will also notice a washer that sits on this stud. Don’t lose this washer. Take it and put it aside so it doesn’t fall off when you continue on in the next steps. 5)Additionally, I removed the hose coming out of the IACV. We’ll call this Hose B. This hose can be removed in the same manner by clamping the bracket and pulling the hose out. You will see that the hose is removed below. Below are pictures of before and after. 6)Here is where the fun begins. I initially attempted to remove the four screws attached to the IACV at this point, but found that after an hour, this would be nearly impossible to remove considering the location of the screws were in an extremely tight spot. The only way I would be able to remove the IACV is to remove right throttle body. Not as tough as it sounds. Three screws need to be removed to accomplish this. Again, be careful when removing the screws. Also you will see I removed another electric plug and I also cut a tie wrap. Once you complete these steps, the throttle body/ IACV comes out pretty easily. Note when you remove the throttle body, there will be one LAST hose connected to the IACV. Be careful when you remove this hose as radiator fluid may spill. Some of my fluid spilled out so I just refilled my coolant after I was done. 7)Below is a picture of the bottom view of the IACV. You now can EASILY remove the four screws connecting the IACV to the throttle body . In the picture below, I have already removed one of the screws. Once the four screws are removed the IACV and throttle body separate. Now you can clean both of them with your carb cleaner, brush, towels, cotton swabs etc…. Picture here is before I the cleaning with all the muck inside Pictures after I cleaned the IACV and throttle body This last picture is the post throttle body cleaning 8) Once you are done cleaning, just put back the throttle body/iacv the same way you took it off, and put everything back in reverse order. Ensure the gasket is in place. Also, ensure you put the washer back on the electric coil. Make sure you place hose A & B back and ensure the electric plugs are back in their original position. Once these things are in place, then it's all about putting the air filter/hoses back and you are good to go. If you have lost any coolant, make sure you refill it to a safe level. After completing this cleaning, my car starts up without any problem and idles as if I just purchased the car brand new. Replacing this at a dealership would have costed me $300-400 easily. Let me know if you have any questions. Cheers (Also, I tried to post these as separate replys, but the software combined all my replies into a single reply and did not keep them separated) *Edited the posting to have the pictures follow step by step in sequential order*
  2. 3 points
    I just purchased a NX200T. During the test drive I did not realize the headrest was a little too far forward. It is sharply angled toward the driver at the top. I am on the shorter side at 5' 6 1/2" tall and have good posture. When I sit in the driver seat with good posture my head is pushed forward about 1/2". I have to lean the seat back so I am slouching to avoid neck discomfort. I asked my dealer, service center and the U.S. corporate office for advice. There was nothing they could do. Very disappointing. The worst part is that the headrest is available outside the US with adjustable forward and aft movement at 4 intervals. I asked a few after market car parts dealers for advice. I was told it is a common problem. I was given many solutions (get another brand car's headrest, cushions, heat the metal and bend the rods, padding, etc.). Some ideas were unsafe and of course illegal I thought. For now I put some 2" cushioning in the seat to bring the rest of the seat inline with the headrest. It is better but not quite there and makes my A/C venting fairly useless, & is a little dorky. After just having paid about 50K for the fully loaded car I want a professional solution to improve the headrest. So far I have not solved it. I am curious if anyone else has had this issue and solved it? Any advice is appreciated. I am 95% happy with the car/SUV and am looking for that last 5% of comfort/fit.
  3. 3 points
    Here are a couple of tips I have picked up regarding maximizing fuel efficiency 1. Replace the spark plugs if you have not already, I prefer NGK Iridium plugs 2. Look for Cooper CS5 Grand Touring/Ultimate Touring tires, they are excellent for these cars 3. Use OVERDRIVE on the highway or at speeds in excess of 60 MPH (most say 40-50 MPH, but in my car I have observed minimal difference at those speeds). Note that you can use Overdrive at all speeds and it will keep the RPM's down but from what I have learned at slower speeds this translates to negligible fuel economy gains. 4. Set your ECT mode to NORMAL and not PWR 5. Keep the RPM's as low as possible aka don't floor it 6. Make sure your wheels are balanced and aligned properly and that your tires are also correctly inflated. 7. Mythbusters proved this, KEEP YOUR CAR CLEAN, it does SLIGHTLY affect gas mileage for the positive. 8. Turn off your A/C system if you want, it does affect gas mileage slightly, but its also a comfort, not really necessary unless you want to maximize fuel economy. 9. In reference to replacing the spark plugs, you may also want to consider replacing the ignition coil, distributor cap & rotor, and plug wires if they have not been replaced in quite some time as they can lose spark and cause poor performance, this would be within a general tune-up. 10. Replace the fuel filter, this is commonly missed on every car, and they get NASTY, unclean fuel = bad performance. Also consider getting a professional fuel service done on your car, this can help too, especially if it has not been done in some time.
  4. 3 points
    Folks, and Forum Admin, Please make a separate section on the Forum for 2016 RX models. THese have had major changes since 2015. The engine has been tweaked, there are scores of safety improvements and the look is way different. I am sure the issues will be different as well. So please rename the 2010-Present section to say 2010-2015 and keep it separate from 2016 onwards. Thanks.
  5. 3 points
    I can answer that. Those zany Brits particularly like "mark" designations: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mark_(designation Maybe it is a longing for Jaguar sedan series names. In the UK, the model year ranges of the LS400 are referenced thusly: Series 1, Mark 1 = 1990-1992 Series 1, Mark 2 = 1993-1994 Series 2, Mark 3 = 1995-1997 Series 2, Mark 4 = 1998-2000
  6. 3 points
    Replaced the Y pipe. Almost one month and no more problems.
  7. 3 points
    okay guys, I am going to give you a very constructive advice on how to fix this problem.first remove the cluster and if you do not know how go to lexls.com and follow the instructions.then remove the face cover .first grap the tach needle gently and pull untill you hear a pop,again be gentle and do not ge scared.once you hear the pop move the needle clockwise untill it pops again then gently release it.now move the needle slowly counterclock till you sit it over the zero an on the dot and make sure that it sits right on the zero.to check your work move it gently say to the mark 3 then let go it should snap right back to zero,once you have accomplished this ,you are rock & roll baby.the same thing goes for speedometer.back light is not working change cap 212,after making sure your cathodes are okay meaning the bulbs.if not you can get them at a very good price from plano lexus,they are awsome as far as price goes.gas guage slow change cap 142.while you are at it change any bad or weak bulbs ,be the warning ones or the indicator ones such as shifter position.by the way guys the cluster lexus has on the first gen is the 1992,because the psb are so robust,where the 1993 and 1994 are made a little bit on the cheapy side.this job should take about an hour if you how to handle things.good luck and let me know. please make a donation to lexls.com,this guy is great.may god bless his soul.
  8. 2 points
    I put together this to help anyone trying to do this on their own. I just got done replacing my left rear bearing assembly on my 2004 RX330. I make the assumption if you are doing this you can at least take off your tire, caliper and rotor. I am not a mechanic by trade, but can do many of my own repairs. Some of the names of the parts I refer to may not be exact, but I will describe them as best as I can. I had some tips on this from my buddy, who is a former Lexus master mechanic. So props to Ron for the help! Some tools I would recommend having before you start: 1. 32mm 12 point deep well socket 2. Ball peen hammer 3. Large heavy hammer, such as a 3lb steel mallet. 4. A small chisel, strong flathead screwdriver or metal starter punch. 5. Hex head 8mm -- 1 25 x 50 mm bolt. Here is the part I am replacing. The specific one I purchased was the Koyo W0133-1890398, which is an OEM part. I would recommend getting OEM parts if you can afford the cost difference. Update: For all who have asked, the vehicle used in this tutorial is AWD (All Wheel Drive). http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2004/lexus/rx330/driveshaft_-ar-_axle/wheel_hub_assembly.html First, take off the tire. Remove the two bolts holding down the brake pads to the caliper. Next, remove the two bolts holding the caliper to the rotor. Now pull off and remove the rotor. If the rotor won't budge and you can't pull it off, you can screw the hex head 8mm -- 1 25 x 50 mm bolt into the front of the rotor in one of the the two holes pictured below. As you screw it in, the rotor will push against the assembly pushing off the rotor. Once the rotor is off, you will see the emergency brake with the hub assembly in the center. You will see a groove in the center of the spindle that is held down by a 12 point nut. The edge of the nut will be slightly bent down into the groove to prevent it from spinning. Using the chisel, screwdriver or punch, you will need to bend this back up so the metal is even with the circular shape of the spindle nut so that it can be unscrewed. Be careful here because you can mess up the threading on the spindle if you don't bend it back well enough. Once you have successfully bent the spindle nut back to the correct shape, stop. Next, remove the center cap on the tire and place the tire back on the hub. Firmly tighten the tire directly to the assembly with 3 or 4 lugnuts, but you won't need it to be completely tightened down. Lower the vehicle down to the ground so that there is only enough weight to prevent the tire from spinning. Do not completely lower the vehicle down. Alternately, you can place a pipe or rod in between the lugnuts and prop it against the wheel well or ground. Basically, you will need to prevent the assembly from spinning in order to break loose and remove the spindle nut. Using the 32 mm 12 point deep well socket, remove the spindle nut. You can place a pipe on the end of the ratchet to achieve more leverage to break the nut free. Once, you have broken the nut free and removed it, raise the vehicle back up, secure it and remove the tire. Slowly turn the assembly so that the holes in the front match up with the bolts securing it to the backing plate. You will have to do one bolt at a time and remove all four bolts. There is no need to remove or do anything to the emergency brake. Once all four bolts are removed, locate the divet on the end of the spindle. Center the rounded end of the ball peen hammer against the divet and using a heavy hammer, give it a few good hard whacks. You will definitely need a hammer with some weight, I used a 3 lb steel mallet. Do not simply use a hammer to hit the spindle directly. Using the round end of the hammer against the divet distributes the strikes evenly down the spindle. You will risk damaging the threading if you start beating at it with a hammer directly. You will start to see the assembly move forward about an inch or two. One of two things will happen here. Either the assembly will break free of the backing plate, which you will simply need to hit it up, down, left and right to slowly knock it loose and out. Or as in my case, the backing plate will separate from from the axle. You are almost there! Remove the backing plate from the spindle and prop one side of it against the ledge of the axle. Hold the other side of the plate with your hand. As long as you have the one end against the ledge of the axle, holding it with your hand will be more the enough to brace it. When I tried to prop the other side of the plate against my tire, it started to slightly bent the backing plate. Give the edges of the bearing a few good whacks with heavy hammer and the assembly will drop to the floor. Now just put everything back together in reverse! Last but not least, don't forget the bend the metal of the spindle nut back down into the groove once you tighten it back down.
  9. 2 points
    It could be a good opportunity if you really want an LS 500 and especially if you plan to keep it a long time. You might be able to negotiate a even lower price based on the vehicle's history. I read recently that there are still a lot of unsold new 2018 LS 500's so the market for them is apparently very soft. Other than its run-flat tires and no spare tire, my main problem with the LS 500 is the shrinking interior which now has a volume within a tenth of a cubic foot of the space of a 2019 Toyota Camry with its optional moonroof. The Camry we rented 6 weeks ago was actually roomier than an LS 500 since the rental Camry didn't have a moonroof. Of course, Toyota/Lexus is too ashamed of it to publish interior volume dimensions for the LS 500 so it's necessary to go elsewhere to find them: https://cars.usnews.com/cars-trucks/lexus/ls/2018/specs/ls-awd-398085 Lexus LS 500 - Passenger Volume (cu. ft.): 99.4 Toyota Camry (with moonroof) - 99.3 cu. ft. per https://www.toyota.com/content/ebrochure/2019/camry_ebrochure.pdf I know the luxury sedan market has shrunk due to the flight to SUV's but I never expected the Lexus LS interior to shrink.
  10. 2 points
    List your model, year , # of owners , price when bought and from where lenght of ownership and attributed problems and repair costs. Also mention where you had it fixed ( lexus, independent, midas or diy). When it was done. Any mods done to the car and its costs. If desired your age and insurance you pay. If you have any picutes in the gallery put links in the post so we can have an idea about the car. Please only post once and if you have a question either pm the member or make a new thread . This will keep the page from being filled with excess.
  11. 2 points
    Trevor, Thanks for the info. You were correct, I had not connected the temp sender wire. It is a bugger of a thing to locate and even more difficult to fit the connector when the entire loom is in situ. The sender unit is tucked in behind the plastic spark plug channel. Done now, so everything is fine. Thanks again, Alan.
  12. 2 points
    I had a common problem with my right rear door actuator. It kept getting weaker and weaker slowing down and eventually not working at all. I did a search on Lexus actuator on ebay and came up with an inexpensive universal actuator which you will see below in the installation instructions. When I opened up the panel in the door it seemed to be near impossible to install this new actuator in any way. After dinking around trying this or that. I decided I would attach the actuator rod to the manual locking cam lever on the old actuator to try and make the new actuator work. This requires leaving the old non functioning actuator and parts in place. 1. Drill a hole the same diameter as the new actuator rod in the wider part of the manual locking cam lever on the old actuator right next to the where the manual locking wire hooks up to the old actuator cam lever. 2. Cut the new actuator rod to fit your application. Bend the new actuator rod end the same way the manual locking wire is bent. Grind the rod end a little thinner as it is tight under the locking cam lever and it will rub on the housing otherwise. 3. Have the new actuator attached at the other end of the rod first. Attach the rod through the hole you made in the cam lever the same way as the manual locking wire is attached. 4. Reinstall the entire door locking mechanism back in the door leaving the actuator hanging out the access hole. 5. Attach the mounting strap to the new actuator using 2 long bolts place 2 spacers or multiple washers between the strap and the actuator this way you can put the actuator just inside the access hole in the door (spacing it carefully not to interfere with the power window) thus allowing you to screw the strap to the outer door panel. 6. You will need to cut a little of the white thin plastic protector shroud on the old actuator to make good clearance for the new actuator rod coming out through the door access hole. 7. Adjust the new actuator for locking and unlocking slack before fastening the mounting strap with screws to the door. 8. Splice the 2 new wires into the 2 larger wires coming off the old actuator (splice them in don't cut the old wires) (You may have to reverse the wires (before soldering or crimping) to make sure you have them unlocking & locking in sequence with the rest of the door locks) It actually works better than the original with shipping it costs less than 15.00 for the parts. I used lock washers on the bolts. It would probably be good to use locktight on all screws. I have no pictures, but If you read this carefully you know it can be done and is not very difficult. I haven't tried this on the front doors yet, but will eventually have to. I hope it goes as well for me... At least it wors for the back doors. Good Luck to you!... Indi
  13. 2 points
    I have NO connection with this automobile.... just showing others JDM RHD TOYOTA CELSIOR VIP SEDAN V8 LS400 JAPAN IMPORT TEXAS TITLE look: https://easttexas.craigslist.org/cto/6180839156.html
  14. 2 points
    Many vehicles with keyless entry / push button start can be entered by thieves using a cheap amplifier that can be purchased on the Internet. If you park your vehicle near your fob (e.g. in your driveway), one of these amplifiers can be used to amplify the fobs signal - even when the fob is in your pocket - to open the vehicle door. I recently read about thieves in the city where I live capturing/recording signals from fobs as owners exit their vehicles in shopping centers and then opening vehicle doors with the recorded signals after the owners had disappeared from sight. I don't know if car manufacturers are doing anything about this problem. Google "Faraday Cage" for information on how to protect a key fob so its signal can not be captured by thieves.
  15. 2 points
    I live in Long Island, NY and I just went to an area where there were a lot of collision shop and one shop gave me a great price and my truck looks like her old self again. She's no longer the ugly duckling. lol, I got sick of looking at the hood and the roof peeling, the GX470 looked like she had eczema.
  16. 2 points
    shame that nobody answers a lot of these questions on here. From what I have researched and talking to Lexus certified mechanics, it appears that the eco mode has the best effect when used during stop and go traffic. The primary changes made by the system is to change the throttle profile by essentially slowing down acceleration, shifting sooner (lower rpms), and scaling back devices that cause high energy drain from the motor (IE: air conditioner compressor and internal fan speed for climate control). Because of these functions, the effect of "eco mode" would be minimal when at highway speeds or maintaining a fairly constant speed. Normal mode is quite efficient and the unique ability of this motor to switch between the traditional Atkinson cycle and the Otto cycle will yield fairly good gas mileage even with the turbo. From my experience and what I have read online most owners that track their mpg manually notice less than a 1-2 mpg gain on long trips when this mode is enabled while highway driving.
  17. 2 points
    I also own a 2008 with bubbling and chipping on the paint. It is located on the side of the car and not a result of a stone or car ding either. I am taking it to a paint shop to get an opinion. Spending $50k on this car and you should not have this kind of quality control issue.
  18. 2 points
    Could you run codes and give us that info....it would help us help you. By the way welcome aboard. Sounds like it is in limp mode, you could have other issues such as knock sensors/etc. but without codes don't know...
  19. 2 points
  20. 2 points
    Hi there. FYI, I just happen to have a complete set of (4) LEXUS OEM 18" alloy wheels, including (4) Top-Rated (and barely used) Michelin X-Ice Xi2 235/60R18 Snow Tires. The bad news (for me) is that shortly after we purchased them, we purchased a winter-home in extreme southern Texas = super poor planning on our part. The good news for you (or someone) is that I'm only asking $1350 for "this > $3000 package", as just one new wheel @ Lexus sells for > $500. And if you'd like to see some photo's of them, they're posted on Craigslist, or I can email some photo's to you. So if you're interested, please give me a call at 440-254-6504, which is in Northeast Ohio, east of Cleveland. Thank you. Dan.
  21. 2 points
    I purchced a new 2016 Rx350, Sweet car every opt. available (even things I didn't know exsisted) Well I put on a trailer hitch as I do with every RX I've owned since 2003, and this is the first one that the Lighting plug under the read of the car was dead. No power was coming out. The Fix is a Hitch wire converter box that is added at the dealer when you buy a hitch from them at $1000,00 or so. If you don't want to hack into your wireing harness with some aftermarket converter then this is what you need. 2016 - **** = P/N PT725-48160 2010 - 2015 = P/N PT219-48101 First off I was told both boxes I listed are the same and are interchangable, but I opted for the correct P/N This is a box that plugs into your existing wirering harness in the passenger rear truck panel and allong with a 30 amp fuse into your fuse box will make your OEM Hitch wireing plug work like it was suppost to. I attached the install PDF, also. Good Luck . MY16 RX 350-450h Tow Harness Converter Kit IssC.pdf
  22. 2 points
    well I broke down and went to discount tires and bought a set of Michelin Latitude Touring HP tires for my 99 LS... I got 235 55 17's and I hope they hold up the rest of my life.... I am wanting to get it all fixed up for my wife.. now dont get me wrong, I am not planning to leave earth, but at 82 and not in good condition I just want to be ready.
  23. 2 points
    usually the odd connector will be floating around, intended to connect to a component which isn't on that particular model of car/engine but the wiring loom just carries it regardless. If you move it in an arc and look for anything it can fit within that movement area then if not and everything works fine then its a dummy connector. It also doesn't look as though its been connected to anything in a long time looking at the dirt that has built up in it
  24. 2 points
    Have your rotors machined or replace sounds like they are out of round also check your brake pads. good luck
  25. 2 points
    Three of us spent a good two hours getting the spare tire off the truck the other day, trying to get access to some other parts of the truck. We followed the 04 lx 470 instruction book to the letter. Finally, I called up the dealer (quite frustrated and upset...afterall, doing this in 20 degree weather for over two hours and getting nowhere was not all that fun!). Guess why we could not get the tire to lower?? The instructions in the book are WRONG! It tells you to insert the "hook" end into the little cup, through the rear bumper access plate. Come to find out, that is the outdated instruction. You dont use the hook end at all...you use the silver metal end with the hex-like key to do it. The dealer confirmed that the book in indeed wrong... So, I hope this post helps someone else in the future. p.s., once we used the right adapter end getting the tire lowered down, it took us less than 30 seconds to do it! p.s.s. my dealer was very very helpful over the phone. Afterall, at first, they must have thought me some sort of babbling idiot....untill they realized the instruction book is wrong. They treated my very nicely through the whole process.......another reason I am glad I have a Lexus!! They even offered to have someone drive to my house to help!!!
  26. 2 points
    I lost my in house mechanic (Jon) due to health problems, but allowed Candrell Car Care to renew my LS at 200,000, by replaceing my Timing Belt/Water Pump, seals, bearings, engine & tranny mounts, plugs seals & VC gaskets and they done a super good job for me.. I have known Bob for about 30+ years, (being in the same business my self) and I already trusted him, but did not know his knowledge of Lexus'es... they are in Carrollton on Midway rd, so if you are in the DFW area, you can trust them.. thanks, billy d powell ..
  27. 2 points
    Just posted this the other day, and now I can't find it, so sorry for the repeat if it is posted elsewhere. I have a 2011 ES350 with 215/55 17 tires. Those are the only size tires the car can come with. I would like to go with a bigger tire to improve handling. To get the same diameter, I would need a 235/50 17, or a 235/45 18. Please let me know if going from the 215 stock tire to the 235 will fit properly on the ES350. I wouldn't think it would be a problem, but I am not sure sonce the factory does not offer a tire size option. Thanks all.
  28. 2 points
  29. 2 points
    The Safety Connect portion of Lexus Enform is available separately for $139.95/year and there are discounts for multiple year subscriptions: https://secure.drivers.lexus.com/lexusdrivers/lexusenform/subscriptions.do Safety Connect is the service that includes using the emergency "S.O.S." button to speak to a real person at the response center, automatically notifies the response center with your GPS location if you crash, and provides Stolen Vehicle Location service in cooperation with law enforcement agencies. We have multiple year subscriptions to Safety Connect for our two Toyota brand vehicles and will subscribe as long as we own the vehicles. An aspect of Safety Connect that I particularly value is that it has it's own backup battery that can allow it to function even after a crash disables the rest of a vehicle's electrical system. My wife and I have AAA (and Medicare!) cards but we do not regard AAA as providing anything like the automatic and "one button push" services that Safety Connect provides.
  30. 2 points
    Whatever the technical name, it is a measure of the "mass of air" going thru the throttle body. In any case, its job is to indicate to the computer how much air is flowing thru the system and how much fuel to mix with the air. Now, the IACV is kind of a 'bypass' around the throttle body...a controlled vacuum leak if you will. However, the IACV 'leak' does not show up on the air flow reading. The computer would of course know what value it is setting the IACV, primarily thru the RPM signal. I still wonder if the IACV is not the culprit. Perhaps some missed carbon on the value or seat?
  31. 2 points
    Have you checked with any neighbors or neighboring businesses that might have some survelience cameras? I'd want to fry that jerk.
  32. 2 points
    Hi there! Just moved over from the IS forum after selling my 2008 IS 250 and replacing it with 2015 ES 350. Really liking this car so far!
  33. 2 points
    Too bad they don't use Apple systems in their cars. That way people wouldn't have to understand folders and fat things.
  34. 2 points
    I have had no luck with my dealer on remedying the paint peeling issue. The deal continues to place liability upon Lexus since the vehicle is out of warranty. The dealer ignores the fact that I had brought the paint chipping and peeling issue to their attention on at three occasions while the vehicle was under warranty. The dealer would simply use some touch up paint and offer nothing further. I made claim for a recall with Lexus a couple years ago. The response I received was that my vehicle was an isolated instance and did not warrant a recall. If enough dissatisfied consumers articulate this issue, I am hopeful Lexus will be forthcoming and offer customer satisfaction. Thanks so much for the forum to air this issue.
  35. 2 points
    That's very interesting. I yesterday had a test drive with the NX300h and I told the exact same comment to the salesman. He was quick to refute my suggestion and I almost convinced myself that I was just having an uncomfortable day. An inconvenient headrest would be a dealbreaker for me, so please let us know how it goes and if you find a solution.
  36. 2 points
    Hi Jeff and welcome to the Club. This particular problem is not unheard of but very few members are unable to find a solution. Personally, in a mild way, I'm not satisfied with the head rest adjustment just like you. Did Lexus Customer Service say they could get the other head rest package from Japan and retro fit it to your current installation. Try that idea if you haven't already. Also, as you drive around you'll find that most foreign cars have the same type headrest.
  37. 2 points
    Lexus LS400 '93 and '94 have a problem with the instrument cluster lights (dash lights). Many many people have this problem. The dash lights won't come on for a while, then they will flicker and finally come on. This is more evident in cold weather. This problem gets worse over a period of weeks or months until they will refuse to come on at all. When the light are off, the fuel gauge points to empty as well. The problem, I found, is in the power supply circuit boards. They are located behind the instrument cluster. I have compiled some detailed instructions on how to remove those boards. If you want a copy of those instructions, just Email (PM) me. I'll Email them to you, no charge. I would attach them here, but they are larger than the 102.4KB limit on this board. My car did that. '93 LS400. The Lexus dealer wanted $1400 to repair it. I repaired mine myself, I'm an electronics engineer and I can help you repair yours too! Email me or PM me Jim Walker jimlwalker@sbcglobal.net -------------------- I have the Repair for your '93 or '94 LS400 flickering INSTRUMENT LIGHTS! I'm an electronics engineer and have found the solution to this common problem on my own car! I want to help you with your problem too.
  38. 2 points
    Thought I'd share this b/c I looked everywhere for this info, and finally found it! The cabin air filter for 1995 is on the driver side counsel near the gas pedal! You'll need to pull carpet back to access. Appearantly many 1995s did not come with filter, either. I found an empty slot. Ordered filter thinking I'd be replacing old one. So after spraying all the gunk and leaf fragments off the A/C coil, I now have a 'fancy' charcoal filter for the cabin. Should help with my allergies. Posted in case someone else is wondering about 95 cabin filters...
  39. 2 points
    Thmsabear, yes the universal u-joints do work. I replaced both on our 2002 RX300 about 1 1/2 years ago. Stopped the vibration. We have put about 15K miles on them since the repair. I purchased the u-joints from a company out of Rockford, IL. In our case, the vibration started after the timing belt and water pump was changed. The engine had to be raised to reach some of the bolts. This caused the problem with the u-joint. Don't waste your money on a new driveshaft. Lexus will tell you that you can't replace the u-joints, that they are staked-in. "Not True" Go to: rockforddriveline.com There is a You Tube video about staked in u-joints. Do a search for: "Staked-in u-joint replacement" posted by bootsnthejeep. Hope this helps, Bill
  40. 2 points
    Many 2010 RX 350s did not come with the trailer tow kit and I, as well as other owners, have had difficulty in finding the proper parts to route power to the existing trailer hitch connector (under the bumper). I finally found a solution and it entails purchasing part number PT219-48101-TC and installing it in the right rear quadrant of the vehicle. I have attached basic installation instructions with pictures for anyone that wishes to attempt to install the converter. Note the cost is a bit more at than the after market solutions available, but it does fit right in place and matches with existing connectors so no cutting of wires is required. The converter cost is around US$90 - US$115 . Good luck and be patient! Adding RX Tow Converter for trailer lights on FWD RX 350.pdf
  41. 2 points
    1995 LS 400 and the entire back tail lights are out!!! Only when I press the brakes, the back lights comes on but once feet of the brakes no lights at all. Is this electrical? Is it major? Any recalls? Help
  42. 2 points
    You can get invaluable info at this link. http://www.lexls.com/ The above link is by far the most complete tutorial for the jobs that it does list. He deserves any donations he get. There is also a non-US guy that will sell you a download of the complete manual for about 7 bux. I found it on ebay I think. Anyway it came thru complete but lacks some indexing so you have to do a bit of searching for what you need. That guy's address is. fahad.victoria@gmail.com I think this may still be a valid addy. Drop me a line in mid Nov. if you have no luck, will be at my winter home then and have more info for you. Dikwag at gmail dot com R. Clikdik
  43. 2 points
    I test drove a Buick LaCrosse turbo before buying my '13 350. I found the ride satisfactory but not as smooth as the Lexus. The fabric sunroof cover really disappointed me. Even though the Buick had more HP - I think around 300 - I felt that the 270 HP Lexus had better acceleration. I also drove an Infiniti and didn' t think that car measured up to the Lexus either. I have just passed the 2000 mile mark and hear no tire noise at all with Michelin MX4's. I find the cabin to be extremely quiet and have the premium sound system - not the $4000. Mark Levinson system. FYI on another Lexus blog you will find a post 27 pages long regarding issues with this option. I agree with the other members that only you can decide what car is for you. What I think is fabulous you might not. Lexus is consistently ranked at the top for resale value and build quality. I believe that their dealers are first rate due to the many remarks from members and my own experiences.
  44. 2 points
    Ah perhaps you mean you want to know how to do it yourself.. To reset the data, perform the following operations: Push the “ODO/TRIP” button to change the display to blank. Turn the ignition switch off. Turn the ignition switch to “ON” with the trip meter “RESET” button held down. Keep pushing the “RESET” button for longer than 5 seconds after the ignition is turned on. After the above operation, the master warning light comes on, a warning tone sounds and the above message appears to inform you that the engine oil maintenance data has been reset. (U.S.A. only)
  45. 2 points
    James, not complaining about the prices, not expecting the manufacturer to assume liability forever, but this is not my first rodeo, I have owned toyotas since 1983 when I purchased my dream car a 1979 Celica a 474 brown hatchback, from there I went to the 1984 Supra,1984 Camry, 1990 Camry, 1987 Truck, 1991 Tercel, 1991 Corolla, 2002 Camry, 2006 Camry, 1993 4Runner, 1996 Camry, 1996 4runner, 2001 Rav4, 2002 Tacoma, 2001 Avalon, 2007Tundra you name it I had my share of Toyotas, but I never had something like this go bad in any car I have owned and you dont go out and pay over $90,000.00 for a car to go and start replacing parts like this 4 years later especialy driving in the city with nicely paved roads.( I understand if I was driving in unpaved roads full of pot holes) James the 1992 Camry went from my to my oldest son to the youngest and it finally died due to lack of maintenance and him neglecting to replace a leacky front crank seal, instead he chhose to add oil all the time, the car had over 330k miles, so I know my Toyotas. Listen on my LS460 first the radio while playing CD if you go over a bump it shoot the radio off, this happen while the car was under warranty, brake actuator making some noise, replaced under warranty, engine valves, done under a recall, wind noise due to some deffective mouldings, a clunk in the transmission as you slow down ( intermitent) I can wait to see how much this will turn out to be? and the latest my lower control arm bushing issue, the leather wering our worst than on my older Lexus. not feeling it. I religiously take the car to be service either at a Lexus dealer or a Toyota dealer ( who told me about the arm issue) religiously, they sell me some service and I just get it done because I drive a lot and know that in order for the car to do what it is supposed to do I have to do my part. like I say before not what I expected from this car, considering the S550 and the E350 to replace my 2 nicer cars seriously. furthermore do you know I have over 120k miles on my 2006 IS250 and the only actual repair was a bad air fuel ratio sensor, under $ 400, that is what I am talking about, the rest maintenace on the clock, no complains on this baby and this is why I purchased the nicer Lexus I expected better. that is all.
  46. 2 points
    Thanks tex2670. Did anyone mention what causes the problem? Mileage related? How many miles on your '07? Just curious, Just saw a post on ClubLexus today with a good explanation (thanks to solotex55 -- no relation):
  47. 2 points
    So you can educate your dealership when they tell you they can't duplicate your problem. I'm slowly downloading more of these as I get them, so keep checking back. 1. Air conditioning poor peformance - AC002_05.pdf 2. Air conditioning sensors inspection - AC005_04.pdf 3. Headlamp condensation - BO003_07.pdf 4. Front brake squeal - BR001_05.pdf 5. Brake acutator abnormal noise - BR003_07.pdf 6. Malfunction indicator lights after brake pad change - BR006_06.pdf 7. Retrieving diagnostic codes (unfortunately this is with the Lexus diagnostic equipment) - EG009_05.pdf 8. ISC learning procedure (this is a good one to be used after drained or disconnected battery) - EG010_05.pdf -this TSB mentions using the Lexus diagnostic equipment but look for my other post for directions for the ordinary mortal who doesn't have the Lexus scanner 9. Rocking feeling at 70mph - EG013_07.pdf 10. Power back door noise - EL013_07.pdf 11. Zero point calibration after wheel alignment - L_SB_0015_08.pdf 12. Tonneau cover latch rattle - NV001_07.pdf 13. Vehicle pull/drift to right improvement - ST003_05.pdf 14. Cylinder head cover oil baffle caution - L_SB_0021_08.pdf 15. Upper/Lower windshield tick noise - NV005_06.pdf 16. Instrument panel rattle - NV002_06.pdf 17. 5W20 oil recommendation - EG006_06.pdf 18. Front seat squeak noise - NV001_06.pdf 19. TPMS diagnostics etc. - PG001_07.pdf __________________________________________________________ The following are not TSBs, but good information to have. FRONT AND REAR BRAKE EXPLODED VIEW (from and RX330, but I believe RX400 is the same) front_brake_component.pdf rear_brake_component.pdf STEREO REMOVAL rx_stero_remove.pdf DEALER SELECTABLE OPTIONS (wish I knew why Lexus made it so only the dealer can adjust these) rx400h_customized_settings.pdf VOICE TEL and NAV COMMANDS (if you can get the stupid system to understand you) 2007_RX400h_Voice_Commands.pdf LexusVoiceNavwTel.pdf
  48. 2 points
    the pdfs are posted on Page 19, thanks to mann777, It took me well over 90 minutes to read from start to end ( all the posts of this thread). So, I am including the pdfs here anyway if anyone reading random pages. I too have both Clunk issue and 55-75MPH vibration issue on my '07 GX470 with 54K miles on it(just bought pre-owned from a remote non-Lexus dealer), hoping mann777 posted TSBs will fix my issues. I will try to call the local Lexus dealer tomorrow and see if I can get them fixed. I hope mine are covered as the TSBs say 72K or 7Years(72 Months). and couple of questions about the vibration TSB, does it have to be under the floorboard because in the TSB in mentions under diagnostic procedure that," Confirm customer complaint of vibration/drone felt in the floorboard or seat between 55 -- 75 mph by test driving the vehicle and note the speed range in which the vibration/drone occurs." I am not quite sure if I feel under the floorboard but my steering vibrates/vobbles like anything between those speeds, I feel like the whole car is vibrating. I feel this vibration in my car is between 60-75MPH, does that mean I have both the problems mentioned in the TSB, i.e. 55-65MPH and 70-75MPH, ? and why is 65-70MPH not covered in the TSB? I think I have the issue between these speeds too I guess. is there any chance that they may deny as not being the floorboard and classifying as a different issue and try to rob me? Thanks in advance. CLUNK_TSB_2008.pdf Steering_Drive_Line_Vibration_issue_Feb_2008.pdf
  49. 2 points
    Folks TILT STEERING NOT OPERATING ON LS430 Just fixed mine tonight 02 LS430 Ultra. Tilt was inoperable and on lowest (and most inconvenient) setting. Took about 30 mins. 3 screws (1 bottom, 2 on front face of shroud that you must turn steering wheel 90 degrees each way to access) to remove shroud. Motor was stuck. Was making very quiet clicking noise when I tried the switch. On 02, the motor assembly is parallel and below the steering column shaft. 2 metric allen keys and the motor releases from the column in which the steering wheel can be now lifted up. This will allow the motor to be free to be manually spun and manipulated by hand to free up. There may be an E clip that is on the worm gear that may be very tight and jamming the motor. Once the motor is spun to free it's movement, you can disconnect the harness, spin the motor to get it free (gear may need to be lubricated), the motor can be repositioned in a manner to have the column tilted to the level desired. Once that's done, reassemble and enjoy. I snapped several photos that I'll included that will make it more easily to visualize. Studying it and determining the cause took about 1 hour. Once you know what you need to do, job should take appx 30 mins or less, assuming you have the correct tools and are mechanically inclined. This is the view from the left side of the column. Remove the gold colored hex head bolt which releases the harness. The black hex head screw to the lower right of that is the right motor captive screw to be removed. This is the view from the bottom. A black colored hex head cover screw which contains a small spring and guide has been removed. The worm gear (long straight expoosed screw like mechanism) is attached to the tilt motor. The E clip that was jamming the motor was located on the worm gear (motor is at the top of the photo, worm gear is attached to the shaft of the motor, E clip is located (removed in this photo) in the area just above where the gear threads begin. View from the right of the steering column. Black hex head screw in middle of photo is the right captive screw on the motor. Email or message me with questions. Best Rick
  50. 2 points
    It works on the 08 IS 350. I just did it. 1) open the car door, get in and close the door, pull the seat belt around and hold it without clicking it home. 2) hit the start button twice with foot off the brake. 3) right away depress the odometer reset button and hold for 10-30 seconds. 4) click home the seat belt. the on off toggle thing comes up on the odometer. select off. wait for the odometer to set. turn the car off.


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