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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/28/2013 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    Trevor, Thanks for the info. You were correct, I had not connected the temp sender wire. It is a bugger of a thing to locate and even more difficult to fit the connector when the entire loom is in situ. The sender unit is tucked in behind the plastic spark plug channel. Done now, so everything is fine. Thanks again, Alan.
  2. 2 points
    I discovered this article today, thanks to a member at ClubLexus. I went and made a scan of my copy, thanks to his discovery. I don't suppose it would hurt to post it here:
  3. 2 points
    Thanks for the posting! We always like new information. Paul
  4. 2 points
    Hi Nathan. I apologize for not connecting with you sooner. I am always amazed at the depth of friendship and caring that can be built with someone you have never met nor never knew what they looked like. The LOC is a place where those who enjoy their hobby can find others who like swapping stories with like minded friends. Landar was a great part of the LOC and was a great source of Lexus info and technical help. Thank you for letting us share your journey. Paul
  5. 2 points
    Incredible shots Steve!!. Looks like a wonderful trip.
  6. 2 points
    Hey guys i made a small video on how to replace the plastic coolant tees that get brittle with age and can crack / leak / break / leave you stranded. Its a fairly straight forward process, everything is covered in the video from tools to parts. If you have any questions let me know. Parts needed for this job: (1) Gallon of coolant - PN# 00272-1LLAC-01 (2) Coolant Tees - PN# 87248-60460 Optional, highly recommended parts for this job: (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A220 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A210 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A190 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A180 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A800 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 99556-20155
  7. 2 points
    I have NO connection with this automobile.... just showing others JDM RHD TOYOTA CELSIOR VIP SEDAN V8 LS400 JAPAN IMPORT TEXAS TITLE look: https://easttexas.craigslist.org/cto/6180839156.html
  8. 2 points
    We recently purchased a new 2017, Lexus RX350 and love it. Selling our original, one owner, 1994, LS400, with 88,000 miles. This superior designed and built, Generation 1 Lexus has been faithful to us as we have been faithful to it. We loved it and still love it. Its new owner will be blessed with full maintenance documentation and records from DAY ONE and any responses to any questions regarding its history will leave our hands with full disclosure of only "the truth". We would not hesitate to keep it and insure it with Hagerty Insurance as a "modern classic", BUT we do not have the room. If it should not sell to the right appreciative and discriminating buyer of this superior condition Lexus, we may have to make room! It is in truly excellent condition and will serve its new owner well. An ad is posted with www.ClassicCars.com. Go to the ad directly from Classic Car's front page by entering "979779" in the "cc-" prompt where indicated. Please do not hesitate to contact me with any further questions at woodman486@kc.rr.com.
  9. 2 points
  10. 1 point
    I bought the Polk Audio DB840 8" replacement speaker that is named in youtube videos about replacing the Mark Levinson subwoofer. There is some discussion about replacing a Mark Levinson speaker with an aftermarket speaker. I went with the Polk($54.00) and it sounds fine. Does is sound as good? I couldn't say because before I replaced the ML blown subwoofer I didn't think to study up on the quality of the sound. I installed the Polk and it sounds fine, maybe great. That's very subjective. But it does sound like a high quality and working speaker system. Interesting comment is that the price of the Mark Levinson is in the design and not the hardware. Old ML speaker weighs much less than the Polk but does not seem to have any distinguishing or different features. Thus end that debate for me. Polk ($54.00 ) vs. ML(used -$300.00 - minimum) R&R pretty simple. if by the time you read this , youtube videos still around, they can walk you thru it. One video has you removing rubber ring around new Polk speaker, one has you keeping it. I kept it and modified plastic bracket that goes BELOW speaker and allows speaker to seat properly on car deck.. This is the bracket that screws onto your rear deck . I secured this bracket with 3 little screws drilled into the plastic. Don't let these screws be too long as they will hit metal rear decking of car. Otherwise any little screw will suffice. The other bracket that is attached to ML assembly is no longer needed. to restate: you throw away one of 2 ML brackets and use only the bracket which screws into car rear deck. drill new holes thur existing holes in Polk speaker and into plastic bracket to secure speaker to this bracket. I only used 3 screws. Like someone said this will only be critical if you roll the car. I don't know the electronics theory but I followed instructions for 'shorting' voice mail coil. Why do that , I don't know? Does it have to be done, I don't know either? Its simple though. Get some wire crimpers and connectors and some short speaker wire and get after it. It took me around 3 hours. if I knew what I was doing , under 2 easy . Seat removal is simple. However when you start removing and reinstalling trim which is seated with those plastic punch pins, It gets a little frustrating. It is of course not automatic that you can line up pins with holes in car's sheet metal.
  11. 1 point
    Hey guys, Im new here, my name is Blake and am looking for some advise for the following. My dad owns this 1998 GS400: He has been the owner since new, passed it along to my brother, who dropped it and put the wheels on it. And now its back in my fathers hands and he has been looking to do something with the interior. Mainly replace the front seats for lower milage units or something, but I was at the junk yard looking for some Audi gear, and stumbled across a 430 with near perfect black interior. I've always hated the GS steering wheel, because there is no wood grain on it, and the emblem is just plain. but the 430s steering wheel is beautiful on top of being black. I can acquire the entire interior for $375USD, pretty much anything that is black. I'm no stranger to interior swaps, steering wheels coding, motor pulls, etc, but mainly with Audis. I am aware that it will take a lot of time and patience and to spend this amount of effort like this on an old Lexus is not everyones cup of tea. But its always a good time bonding with the father. My questions are primarily the air bags. I read about the single stage vs dual stage. I am a little unfamiliar with the Lexus electronics. In the Audi world, guys simply wire up the high speed impact to the single stage signal. Not at all what I do, nor want to do here. Its been proven to work in Audis, but still not a risk I take with my Audis, nor my fathers car. I figure for the steering column, I will only be swapping the shrouds, and will still be left with the dilemma of single to dual. I would prefer to keep the from having to purchase a complete RX wheel and air bag which is almost the cost of the swap. Can the air bag covers be modified/swapped? What about the rest of the air bags, like the one in the dash, the seats, does anyone know if they are all compatible? Or is the whole 430 a completely different animal? Thanks guys!
  12. 1 point
    dcfish? Whoa! That's a blast from the past. There have been people looking for you asking about navigation and audio systems. I still drop by this forum once a month or so and sometimes try to help. There's not much in the current Lexus lineup of interest to us. Somebody in Nebraska is driving the 2000 LS400 I sold in 2014 ... wish he would change the name/address associated with the car so Lexus wouldn't contact me about it. My daily driver is still the "Lexus of Minivans" - suits us perfectly for our lifestyle these days. Nice to hear from you!
  13. 1 point
    Thanks Trevor for your answer! I have visited Lexus dealer today to they check vibration. Luckily they had a time to check that out. They check balance (did not find anything). Also they make a wheel rotation. Thats all they did. The vibration is now much much lower. Now it feels more like light tingle what could be felt only on good new freeway asphalt. So I probably will wait little while if this gets worse or may be better. This sounds strange that vinbration was almost fixed by the wheel rotation...
  14. 1 point
    I have a 1999 GS-300 with 130,000 miles on it. Had lots of issues with the vehicle cranking over recently. Got into my car turned the ignition and click, nothing happened. Tried to crank the engine again and click! Nothing again...... My battery was my 1st thought but, my lights were bright and radio and fan were working right. So I saw a couple postings on the lexus owners club and thought I would tackle this job myself. This problem was intermittent, sometimes the car turned over and sometimes it didn't. Recently it would take me up to 10 minutes for the car to crank over and start, so I had to do something. I just finished up the job in about 2 hours (start to finish) and thought somebody might read this and make it useful. So here I go to try and tell you how to fix the starter problem and tell you what tools you'll need. Actually after doing the job it was well worth the effort. The problem turned out to be the "Copper Contacts inside the Starter Solenoid" with a total bill of $5.00 (yep I said Five Dollars if you do it yourself). Before you begin, locate your local Alternator/Starter Rebuilding Shop, you'll need them for the Copper Contacts that are located inside the Starter Solenoid ($5.Dollars) They sold them to me separately. Tools required: Patience, 10mm., 12mm.,14mm.,15mm,16mm socket, socket wrench, universal swivel socket attachment, (2) Extra Long Socket Extensions 12"inches each, 9/32"nds nut runner or socket. So here we go: Step by step 1st Things First - you'll need to disconnect your battery to the car both positive and negative leads. Pop your hood. You need a 10 mm. socket and socket wrench to disconnect the battery. (Remember, you'll lose all your settings on your radio, seat memory etc.... but worth it - and if you have any warning light on your dash, like check engine light they'll go off too after you disconnect and reconnect the battery.) The starter and solenoid are located on the driver side of the car engine. They are piggybacked next to each other in one unit. 2nd - you need to disconnect the transmission dip stick to move it out of your way to get the starter out. (You'll need a 12mm. socket with socket wrench) The bolt is located at the top of the dip stick that is attached to the engine. Feel free to pull the dip stick all the way out and put it in a safe place. You don't actually need to take the outside shell of the dip stick out all the way just pull it out about 4 inches and move it to the right or left, it's attached at the bottom by a rubber wire holding clamp. Just move it aside for now. 3rd - Disconnect the lead wires that are going to the starter, there are two - one is a black push connector that you must push the center button in to remove the wire connector as you pull the wire out, and the other is under the rubber black boot that is the power connection that is coming from your battery. Pull back the black rubber boot and expose the 12 mm. nut that must be removed to get the cable off the starter. You'll need a 12mm. socket and wrench to get this nut off. Once you remove the cable put the 12mm. nut back on the starter so it doen't get lost. 4th - Crawl under your vehicle and take your 14 mm. socket, socket wrench and swivel adapter with you with (2) Extra Long 12" inch extentions, you'll need the extra lengths to get the bolts to turn and free your rachet up to swing and loosen the 14mm. bolt heads. Don't take the bolts out all the way, leave them in housing as long as the starter is able to come out. The only reason I say this is because the starter will be easier to re-install once your done fixing it. Now, take your starter out from the bottom, it's a little tight but it will come out. 5th - Put your starter on a work bench or preferably a Vice to hold the starter in place so it won't fall. Locate the (3) 9/32" inch cover nuts and remove them with a 9/32" inch nut runner or socket. Take care not to lose the nuts. Remove the top cover of the solenoid. Once you remove the top cover you'll see the two copper contacts on opposite sides of the solenoid. Remove the center copper solenoid, be careful because at the bottom of the solenoid is a pointed tip with a long 3" spring that actually pushed the started gear out once powered on with your ignition key. Put this center solenoid off to the side with the 3" Spring. Now locate the two copper contacts on opposite sides of the solenoid housing (these are the contacts that need to be replaced.. these are the parts that are causing all your problems with your starter - all for $5 Bucks, notice how black and pitted the copper contacts are). At this point this is where I actually took my whole starter to a Alternator/Starter Rebuildng Shop in a plastic bag with the solenoid cover off and showed them the starter and contacts and they had them in stock. (The 2 Copper Contacts) were tiny copper 90 degree clips with a 1/4 Moon Shape to them, no larger than 1 1/2"inches and no bigger than a quarter. Once I got the Copper Contacts back home the fun started! I can't believe how little they were and how easy they were going to be replaced for just $5. Five bucks. This was going to save me a ton of money. Now this is where you'll need to take the (2) nuts off the one side of the solenoid, one nut (12 mm.) is where we originally removed the cable wire from the battery and there is another nut that holds the copper contact into place. I think this is a 15mm. socket (but don't quote me on this one - sorry I forgot what size it was), but remove this nut also, this is the last nut holding the copper contact into place. Once you remove the nut you'll be able to slide the copper contact out, but be careful not to lose the thin washer and small rubber O-Ring attached to the Copper Contact Post. One side of the contact is a Rectangular Copper Square attached to a Copper Post the Copper Contact actually slides over the post for mounting purposes. Take note how the contact is positioned because you'll have to re-install the NEW Copper Contact the same way. You can remove the contact now. Make sure you note what Copper Contact goes where, one is larger than the other. Replace the contact with the same NEW COPPER CONTACT and re-install the same way. Now on the opposite side, slide back the rubber boot that is covering the other contact post bolt and nuts. Be careful because their is another small washer and "O-Ring" on the other side too. Take care to remove the Copper Contacts the same way and install the other NEW COPPER CONTACT and re-install the same way. Re-assemble the Nuts in the same manner and tighten. Slide the boot cover back over the post and re-assemble putting the center solenoid back inside the housing, re-install the cover of the solenoid. Your starter solenoid is now complete. Re-assemble everything is reverse order and now your done. Hope this helps the Do-It-Yourself Guys. Any questions, feel free to comment me back. Hope I didn't miss anything.... Blaise
  15. 1 point
    Oh wow! a fascinating country to visit....make sure you post up some photos, especially if you visit the Lexus factory
  16. 1 point
    Yeah, the very inside of the back tires will rub pretty easily on the spring perch if you're not careful with your tire size, especially with a more square tire tread. looks like your current tires are pretty rounded on the inside... the fronts can fit whatever pretty easily.
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    Thanks for your response. After looking at the design I decided not to take the chance and just returned the CRC for a refund, pointing out the note on the can about Lexus,
  20. 1 point
    Just bought a beautiful 2015 LX 350. What’s the best option for mats—Lexus, weathertec, other? Want aesthetic and protection.
  21. 1 point
    One of your driven devices is freezing up. ie the alternator, power steering pump, air conditioning compressor, or one of the idlers. Before putting belt on spin each to make sure they are free. I would suspect the air conditioning compressor when energized is the culprit.
  22. 1 point
    I'm guessing that maybe a battery reset may bring the screen back to life...certainly worth trying as a starting point.
  23. 1 point
    Thanks guys! I got it posted. It is the SC from that post.
  24. 1 point
    Brake rotors will usually have a light coat of oxidation, but those definitely have more rust than usual. It's obvious he used some cheaper aftermarket ones from probably advanced auto or Autozone. Those cheap rotors are sometimes made from china. I mean, It will still perform fine. Your OEM lexus rotors would've been fine. I don't understand why didn't he just use and resurface/machine your original rotors.
  25. 1 point
    Thanks Trevor , I can't get my wife out of it , but really bought for her anyway . What a fun car though , a lot of them available right now , thanks for the welcome , all the best to you .
  26. 1 point
    People, people, people, I CANT even imagine some one with ONLY one key to their Lexus, your FIRST purchase SHOULD be to buy a second... (cost is no reason to not have one)... IF you cant afford one dont buy the car.... what ever happens is something YOU have already accepted ..... GO and buy a second one today... I hope I never see another post like this one...
  27. 1 point
    I believe there is a big rubber o-ring on the master cylinder where it mates/seals to the brake booster. It might of rollled off when someone tried installing a new MC or that o-ring is worn. Trying removing the 2 nuts holding the master cylinder and inspect. If and when you do replace that o-ring, make sure you lube it with silicone grease.
  28. 1 point
    Speed sensor is located on the passenger side hub.
  29. 1 point
    I answered your "shaking" question, read it..
  30. 1 point
    I did the math over the course of two months. Using 93 octane from Shell or BP in the GX improves overall mileage enough to actually save 1.3 cents per mile in fuel cost. But even if it cost a little more per mile, my butt dyno says the engine runs noticeably better with hi-test.
  31. 1 point
    Just dropped my 2008 RX 400H of at the dealer for soggy headlight replacement. The service writer didn't believe it was covered so he looked it up. It's still covered under the "warranty enhancement program". It's 9 years from the first day it was put in service. That covers me and hopefully some others who haven't looked at this thread in a long time. Good luck!
  32. 1 point
    I'm happy to be a member on this site. Looks like a great forum here with usefull tips. I drive a 2014 Lexus IS 300h. Thanks for letting me join. christian
  33. 1 point
    Hi folks. I ran across this the other day and thought you would enjoy reading more good news about your decision to buy a Lexus. https://lexusenthusiast.com/2017/06/21/lexus-crossovers-named-best-luxury-value-for-canadians/
  34. 1 point
    I also own a white 2008 Lexus GX 470 that has paint chipping on two sides of the car. Has anyone had luck with Lexus addressing the issue? It seems so many people have had chipping on the white GX 470.
  35. 1 point
    Nice car driving history! To be honest it's my first lexus now as well. I drove BMW, Toyota and Mercedes earlier but it's my new lexus from DSRLeasing that got me fired up the most.
  36. 1 point
    This is still speculation, but the the number of pieces needed to make it happen are getting fewer and fewer. This would make a major change in the ES and I for one immediately go to what would my ES be worth if this becomes a reality. This is one of those issues that can run rampant within the auto world and also the international financial markets. With the ES now being made in Kentucky, Lexus could potentially create a more feature rich ES and not have to move changes back and forth across the Pacific. Paul What do you think? https://lexusenthusiast.com/2017/05/01/next-generation-lexus-es-to-replace-the-gs-as-global-mid-size-seda
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    Word of Mouth, just bought a used Lexus and this is the right place for me, where we have people discussing something in my concern. We have very few Lexus LS400 here in Nairobi, so this is the closest i can get to discussing the car with other similar owners
  39. 1 point
    I just installed on my 200 GS400 a new aftermarket navigation Pioneer AVIC8200NEX and used stock Amplifier and stock speakers. Stock HU unit, Navigation and CD changer has been removed. Simple stock amplifier's hardware modification required. Problem with using stock amplifier has been solved. If you like know more about it, please drop a line to me.
  40. 1 point
    I adjusted my headlights like this and it worked as you described, it looks like it only moves the bulb inside. To properly adjust my headlights I did the 5 - 15 adjust method... Adjust your headlights to have a level beam pattern at 5 feet, then adjust again using a flat matte backdrop (black or white, some people say one is better than the other) you finalize your vertical pattern and horizontal pattern to angle the beam at the center of the car. According to the NHTSA Halogen bulbs should cast light illumination on reflective signs out to 45 feet on low beam and cover a minimum of 90 degrees focus. With Halogen bulbs this means that bright light should be cast out to 15-20 feet, this will provide optimal illumination of the road and upcoming signs and potential hazards. LED's are a bit different as their lumen output is 3x that of even performance Halogen bulbs, for them it's a 5-25-40 rule for adjustment HID's are the brightest of the bunch, and generally are adjusted at 5-30-45. Addendum: The reason for the different distances especially when regarding the use of higher intensity lighting is that you do not want to blind other drivers, especially in oncoming traffic and maximize forward ground illumination where your eyes will focus on the road, this will not only make people hate you less but will enhance your chances of dodging potentially hazardous obstacles on the road at night. @ 5 feet you make your more major adjustments in terms of vertical and horizontal @ 15/25/30 feet you make more minute adjustments to ensure the beam pattern is centered and is level and is providing the correct amount of ground illumination and reflective sign illumination. @40/45 (45 with Halogen on HIGH BEAM) feet you ensure that your lights are not blinding (exception for Halogen High Beam, will be separated). Finalize your beam pattern with very minute adjustments and give it a driving test starting out in your neighborhood then onto a highway. *NOTE: For HALOGEN HIGH BEAM ONLY - When testing your high beams at 45 feet ensure that you have the correct side and height illumination and that reflective signs out to at least 100 feet away are being illuminated.
  41. 1 point
    Anytime, it took me a very long time and a lot of research to figure it out! When you hear it again just remember what to say. I save it in the contact info for the dealer in my phone!
  42. 1 point
    All fixed! They did an awesome job on the paint match! The only thing they painted was the bumper and they managed to match the Crystal White Pearl Tricoat PERFECTLY: I really thought they were going to have to blend it in. They did a color match. Their paint guy has been mixing paint and painting cars for 33 years. He did an outstanding job.
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
    To get access to the engine ECU -- Inside the car, passenger side: 1) Remove the trim kick panel below the lower dashboard (it pops off--clipped into place; either leave in place or disconnect the wiring to the footwell light). 2) Remove the glovebox: First, disconnect the left-hand glove box door check, then using a screwdriver, press in then remove the clips inside the glovebox; pop out the airbag sensor on the LH side of the glovebox. Carefully pry out the glovebox, leaving the glovebox door in place, slipping the airbag sensor out of the glovebox... leave that connected. 3) Unbolt the lower dash pad (five bolts w/ 10mm heads--two at top, three on the bottom). Pull it down/off. On '93-94s, the engine ECU is attached to the back of this. 10mm socket to remove the ECU from the lower dash pad. Otherwise, Yamae's posts on the CL forum (see Trey's link above) will show you where the ECU is placed on the earlier cars. Installation is the reverse, blah, blah, blah. I've had good luck with ECU capacitor replacement kits from the usual online auction sources (there are sellers who have put together kits from Digikey/Mouser, which is the way I went) to replace capacitors in my LS' ECU last summer, which resolved running issues I had at that time. Note that replacing capacitors does require some skill in electronics soldering and repair; don't attempt it if you don't have those skills. Paul
  45. 1 point
    I have a shop press, the one thing important in pressing out a bearing or inserting is to only apply pressure on the outside bearing surface. The inner bearing (shaft) side would put undo stress on the bearing and damage it. your first socket which would apply pressure on the outside is the correct pressure point.
  46. 1 point
    wow that is cool where did you get that
  47. 1 point
    I can confirm 1993-2000 LS 400 rims all fit on the 1990-1992 LS. However, since they are 16 inch, the tires you will need to buy to get the same overall circumference as the originals will cost more. The tire size for 1993-2000 LS 400 models have a larger circumference overall, leading to inaccurate speed readings on 1990-1992 models. Changing the 1st gen brakes are more or less nitpicking. 1993-1994 have larger rotors and calipers, which makes braking stronger (this means you will need to change to 16" rims). Although, the dual piston calipers fitted on 1991-1992 models are very good. 1990 models have single piston calipers. Looking forward to seeing and reading about these updates!
  48. 1 point
    I am almost there, at 197k miles...on my RX400h, just changed timing belt, water pump, and idlers.....
  49. 1 point
    Hey Ralph, welcome to the LOC! Be sure to check out the RX forum. I love our 2016. They just keep getting better. Paul
  50. 1 point
    Mine with ML (2011 IS350 F) (Oz model) 2 small holes either side of clock panel under GPS. Insert the 2 screwdriver looking pin tools from the boot tool kit and press in to release spring clips and work until panel pops out. Go to info button on side of GPS, maps, and there will be an eject button. Remove Navi DVD. Replace with newer version. Wait until it loads up. Test. Then replace clock panel. I got my Oz DVD from this site. https://www.gpspower.net/toyota-lexus.html

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