Sadistic

Of course.

I had the same problem with a friend's 300 A/T. We did a tranny service and the problem went away. We thought maybe the tranny was getting hot from never being serviced. Problem solved. His heat was coming from the Center console/floor area.

The sad thing is, most people feel like they know the limiatations of their vehicle, and think that they are fast enough to react to a car darting out in front of them, when they're trying to race a Civic in practically rush hour traffic. People like this are the most dangerous people in the world. I would rather have a loaded gun to my head, than sit in a car with one of these people. Atleast I know that a gun has less variables against me, then racing through traffic. I've street raced, and weaved through traffic, everyone has done it at one point in their life. And even though it can be the most tragic, and destructive thing that you can do to someone or yourself, it still happens thousands of times each minute, in every day. The only safe way to race is on a track, or a sanctioned place for racing. It's just too bad that they are so sparce, and the ones that are around, are always packed. So they quickly lose the allure when you have to sit in the staging lanes for 2 hours in the raging heat waiting for another pass. There really is no winning answer, if you're going to race, atleast try and be safe about it. Try and keep a level head about it. If your race runs into traffic, atleast have the brains, and the pride to back off and let the person you're racing be the idiot to kill a couple of small kids while they're being driven to soccer practice.

Falken tires have been around for quite a while, and we've run a few pairs of them on different vehicles. Never had a problem with them. They're quite a bit cheaper than when they came out also, which was really my only complaint before.

There's a button on the left hand side of the steering wheel. That if you push up and down, will control that movement. Mine has done that a few times, came out, but not gone down. It happened when I turned the key. Make sure and try to not turn the key until it's done moving. That may help.

I use all burned cd's. I need something to stick my 19K+ mp3's on. I use Memorex because I burn so many CD-R's. I have NEVER had a problem in ANY cd player. Even old ones. I think that's more of a myth. Isn't the CD-R process just about the same that the manufacturer uses? So how could you have a problem? If your burner flips out, and mucks the disc, of course it won't work, but I've had that with commercial boughten cd's also. I DID have a problem with spot 11 on my CD Changer. It would keep the CD and not switch albums, so I just stopped using that. Since then, not one "ERR" Now if you're trying to use a CD-RW, good luck. I don't know of one that will read it.

I couldn't agree more. If someone has a quality product, they are going to charge for it. And buying three hoods at a time is no better than one with a quality company. If they offer you such a great "deal" with three hoods, it's because they can't get rid of them. It is nothing more than that. Friends of mine get a deal period, not by quantity. They use that as a ploy to push product that won't sell. Normal quantity deals start around 7-10 objects. Hoods, wheels, it doesn't matter. Smaller objects can get up to 15-20 before the real deals start. Be weary. A lot of us have been around the "block," and know what we're talking about from experience. Of course, it's your car and your choice. By all means, if you really want the hood then go for it, but if it's too good to be true. It is.. Just my .02, coming from a seller.

That's the first thing that I thought too. Check for a loose battery terminal. If the battery isn't very secure, it could be shaking due to the engine cranking over, and corrosion could be causing the system to shut down.

I'm really sorry to hear that Mr. O. It's definitely a sad day. The good news is, yes! Since they are going to use factory replacement material. You can just tell them to replace the '95 parts with '97-'98 parts. The prices should be about the same, and it will look as if nothing happened. Just get the parts number list from Intelexual, and take that into your body guy. Have him change the part #'s on the estimate now, so there is no question later. Tell him that it was just a minor cosmetic change between years, and as far as I know requires no fabrication. Hope that helps, and good luck!

People actually do that? haha wow. Yeah. If you get a cheap Carbon Fiber hood, make sure and buy some Bunjee Cords to hold it down once it's installed ;)

One of my friends had the same thing.. It was a shim... I think. It would clatter at about 2100 rpm, stop at 3400, and it would do the same thing at shifts. I don't remember exactly what it was, but I'm more than sure it was valve train clatter.

Yeah, that's basically Escrow. It's like COD, only the buyer has the security of knowing that the money is in trusted hands, and not that you're working some scam with your local UPS guy. www.escrow.com is probably the most trusted. I think there's like an e-escrow.com Or something like that also, they could even be the same. Personally, if he WON'T do an escrow, I would be weary about that. There's no reason for him to think that he's going to get ripped off, if you're trustworthy, and the Escrow is also. That, or fly out there like AJ said. Or drive, take a few friends with some equipment and head down there. Tear the motor down a bit and check it out. If he won't allow this, I would be cautious. If he has nothing to hide, he will more than likely understand your concerns, and be more than willing to allow you free reign over the motor under his supervision.

I wouldn't think you would have to push it that hard. You would think if you would've slowed down. Lower RPM's = lower engine temp eventually. With the heater blaring it would've taken a lot of eat away from the motor.. who knows. The only time I've had to do that. Going 65 was fine. But, it wasn't over heating too badly. Just low on fluid.

It honestly might not be bad. It will definitely be louder though. I guess that's all in taste.

In my opinion, that's really up to you, and what you want. Maybe you should have two small pipes made to replace the resonators (maybe cost $50) and take them out. If you don't like them, just throw them back in. I've always thought that exhaust systems sound better with Resonators, but that's me.

I have a friend with a 7M that jumped up to a 550's, a TT pump, and a VPC. The only thing that effected his idle was the VPC. I had one on my Eclipse too. Those things are probably the most brutal fuel computer you can get. So easily to be so off with that thing. Fine tuning isn't even possible. It's like a hit or miss deal. I heard a lot of software issues with the EMS when it first came out, but I haven't heard anything since. So I would assume that's all been taken care of. From the sounds of it, the unit is practically 'Miracle Machines' when it comes to tuning. Very easy to use, and also very easy to screw it up I'm sure with one comes the other :D

I've read that quite a few time. People complaining about early leather. I suppose I got lucky. At over 150K+ miles, and mine being a '93. My leather is outstanding. I've been looking at picking up an older GS300, and I've noticed that with a lot of the earlier ones the leather does seem to be in worse shape. Just doesn't seem to hold up as well. So, maybe that was a general problem with all Lexus'. I'm sure a lot of it has to do with how it was maintained also. I would say welcome to the Lexus club, but it sounds like you've been here for quite awhile So, if you do end up getting an SC, welcome to the SC Club!. ;)

Yup, that's the FMI (Front Mount Intake) I really didn't see many of those. Most people think they look goofy, and would much rather have an intercooler sitting there, rather than an intake, but I will say. It's much better that he has a functional intake in the front, rather than a fake intercooler from VIS, or something.

A head gasket to change compression that much would be massive. HKS makes a metal stopper gasket in 2mm which supposedly lowers the compression ration to 7.97:1 That is extremely low, but that doesn't mean that your engine can handle that much boost. Many other components can break under that stress. Like JZZ said, the rods are probably very thin, and would probably break under that amount of boost. Not to mention the fuel system may have not been enough for 14.5 psi of boost. I don't know what F-MAX rates their AIC package at. One of the problems I ran into with my Eclipse was, when the motor was built the last time, they didn't plug the knock sensor in. Because of this, I had zero fuel enrichment. It only took ONE time of boost over 6 psi to destroy the motor. Melted a hole through a forged piston, heat scared the chamber, lifted the head off. Now, I'm not saying this happened to you, but one little mistake could have made the entire thing to go ka-putt. I would suggest that when you go to try and find out what the problem was, you go very slowly, and double check everything. I'm not sure if I would let the shop you took it to do the inspection. It depends on how reputible they are. If you feel like they would lay the blame on you, without even checking into it, then I wouldn't. Even in my shop, I don't warranty things like this. It's a custom perfomance upgrade on a vehicle. By having something that isn't meant to be used on the vehicle by OE, you have the understanding that things like this can happen. I warranty every hour of labor that goes out the door, but not motors. If I looked at it and it was my fault, then I would warranty it in a heartbeat. That's just how I am. The bad thing is, it's too easy for a customer to leave, crank up the boost, blow it up, and try to blame my work for the failure. That's where an objective opinion, and trustworthyness comes into play. I would think this over, even down to when you were driving it. Did the car do anything previously to blowing? Did it show any sign? Did you play with the E-Manage at all? Was it in the middle of a 2-3 shift at full boost? Really look at everything, and don't be afraid to lay the blame on yourself. Responsibility needs to be taken by someone, and if the problem was your fault, then you should do that. Of course I'm not suggesting that it was your fault. The shop could've very easily made a mistake. I'm just saying, look at this objectively. Look at how the shop is going to react to having a blown motor sitting in their hands. And remember, take your time! That is the best advice that you can have right now. Don't rush into anything, and don't start laying blame until you find out what the problem was. That's just my .02. I do wish you luck in finding out what happened.

That's what the front end looks like. I don't remember what it's called. Maybe the Cyber, but it was originally designed for the 240SX. It came in the late 90's when bodykits started getting really crazy.

haha I just had to post this.. I laughed at this for about an hour.

Before you start looking to make 550-600 hp safely, you need to do it at 450. Don't start jumping into something like that, until you know what the problem was, and how to fix it. Take the head off, and see. If you burned a hole in the pistons, I would think more than likely there is scaring to the block. You're atleast going to need a clean up bore, if not more. Now would be a good time to go forged, but the first thing to do is find out why it blew. That could be anything from boost spiking, to not being tuned correctly. After you find out what the problem was, the next course would be to fix that. Then decide what you are going to do. If you aren't going to go with a forged setup, I would suggest getting a new engine. That's just me, of course. And, depends on how much damage there is.

Close to 80% of the oil that comes out of Alaska goes to Japan. The reason gas prices are getting so high (or so they say) has nothing to do with the price of oil. It has to do with Insurance companies. Oil companies need insurance, and because of all the recent uprisings in Iraq against the US, Oil workers, Tankers ect. Insurance companies have begun raising insurance premiums to astronomical rates. Oil companies are making US pay for that insurance rise, in their gas prices. There is no real way to solve this problem, (In Iraq) seeing as the more tankers that get attacked, the higher insurance goes. What we NEED to do is raise prices of oil on Japan, or atleast not send as much, that will help relieve the strain on our own economy, or so I feel. [sarcasm]All you really need is one good look at things like this, it just goes to show how much the current administration really cares about OUR economy.[/sarcasm] Too bad it isn't as much as they do playing cowboys and indians.

You aren't seeing any oil because it is probably hitting somewhere and burning. And it won't really pour out of there. When your RPM's hit a certain area, the oil pressure is higher, and it can actually spray out of where the leak is. That is when you're going to notice it. You might notice if you romp on it once, you'll smell the oil shortly after.

Pffbt, that's not bad at all.. Thanks!