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  • Lexus Model
    98 SC300

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  1. OK guys, I have been used to claying then immediately waxing for the past 4 years. In reading old posts, there seems to be a common consensus that after washing & claying, the next steps are polishing then sealing and Poorboys seem to have many positive reviews. I have never been a fan of liquid wax, but in checking the polish and sealant from www.poorboysworld.com, it looks like both are in liquid form. I just want to double-check before I order both that the liquids are able to sustain 2-3 times the weathering that traditional paste waxing can. Thanks for the help.
  2. Okay. Who wants a good laugh... So I go out this evening to remove the existing changer. I bought a factory changer from Sealevel and it will be here tomorrow. I decided to take my changer out tonight so all I had to do was put Sealevel's in tomorrow. As I'm taking mine out I decided to perform minor surgery. Now even the dealer took it out for me and couldn't figure out why it would run and run and run, trying to eject a CD but nothing would come out and the head unit wouldn't even switch to the CD player mode. Once I had the changer unbolstered, I turned it vertical, pressed the eject button and gave it one good bump with the heel of my hand and voila, the CD popped out. :chairshot: I tested several other CDs, burned and bought, and everything works fine. In checking closer, the culprit CD is very slightly warped. So, if anyone is looking to buy a 12-disc changer (now that I have one I don't need), let me know. 98_sc300@earthlink.net.
  3. Hi guys. I was at the dealer this past Saturday waiting for an oil change and heard a couple guys talking. Don't know if they actually know what they're talking about, but one guy was telling the other that he puts a little baking soda (along with the soap) in the bucket as it's filling with water. He said the soda acts as a neutralizer for airborne contaminants, acid rain and other things like birds. Maybe I'm naive, but it seemed to make sense to me. Just curious if anyone else has ever heard of or tried this?
  4. Thanks for the info guys. Can't wait to get the new one installed.
  5. Hi guys- For the trunk-mounted 12-disc changer, has anyone had any issues with using burned CDs? I've heard that I should use name brand, higher quality CDs, not the cheapies because the cheapies can get stuck in the player more easily. Just curious because I just bought sealevel's changer and I want this one to last. Thanks-
  6. Sealevel- None of the features like e-mail on here work for me. Can you shoot me an e-mail @ 98_sc300@earthlink.net? I'm interested in buying your changer and wanted to chat more about it with you. Thanks-
  7. Well, my 12-disc changer in the drunk has had it. A place here in Miami with a good reputation is willing to remove the old one, swap for a rebuilt OEM changer with 1-year warranty. Total cost would be $285. The dealer said they could do the same for $600...don't think so! Can anyone give me their thoughts on the $285 deal? I'd like to stay OEM if it's worth it. There are no adapters for an aftermarket changer to interface properly with the head unit. Thanks-
  8. http://www.redlineoil.com Someone recently mentioned WaterWatter as a coolant additive. Anyone have any experience with this. Sounds like a good product, but I'm a little apprehensive using products like this without knowing everything about it beforehand and possible side effects (corrosion, etc.) Any input is appreciated...
  9. :D <-----Is what I've been doing ever since picking up my SC3 three weeks ago. I had a 94 Legend Coupe LS that was like a first-born child to me. However, the SC3 is already near that status in a few short weeks and am looking forward to doing a few things to it (cleaning headlight lenses and working on foglights). It is a complete dream to drive and sometimes I catch myself looking for reasons to go for a drive. I guess I just wanted to say thanks for giving different view points on here and to be constantly reminded how like I am (how lucky we all are, actually) to be able to afford such a work of excellent engineering and style.
  10. UCF...I looked thru many of the posts on the car care forum and will put stuff like this over there going forward. One last thing...any idea why the highbeams look like new and the lowbeams are in need of attention? Possibly because the highbeams are used substantially less than the lowbeams...
  11. I'll post a pic soon but it gets clayed then a nice heavy coat of wax. I RainX all the windows but the headlight & taillight lenses get clayed and waxed as well. Too bad most everyone seems out west or outside south Florida. Weather's perfect here for car fanatics!
  12. sightdev...I agree about waxing everything. I'll let you know how things come out. I'm thinking that, if priced within reason, I may end up just replacing the fogs. TWINTURBO619...that is a sweet-@ss ride you have there!
  13. Can anyone give me an idea of where the reset button is located. I looked all around, but couldn't find anything. Thanks for the help.
  14. I'm new to the site and wanted to say that the site is very impressive and immensely helpful for do-it-yourselfers. Just two questions... I've been reading on here about cleaning/polishing the headlight lenses to make them look new again. Before I undertake the feat, just curious if anyone has tried cleaning and polishing the exterior of the lens? If so, does it look substantially better and not warrant taking the unit apart to do the inside. Also, what's the best way to get the foglight units out? They are in much worse need of a cleaning than the headlights and I wouldn't mind doing them (inside and out) if anyone has any suggestions. Thanks-
  15. I've always used the 2 bottles of Lexol before. One is the cleaner, the second is the conditioner. The cleaner is good, but just like any soap-type product, it also removes mositure from the leather, making it more susceptible to cracking. So once you've cleaned it, give it a good dousing with the conditioner to help replace much of the moisture the cleaner removed. Two quick things with the conditioner. Don't use too much! You want to put on enough to cover the surface area but you want to the leather to absorb it and not have a bunch laying on the surface when you're done otherwise, (even after a day or so) your clothes that touch the surface will have an oily residue on them. Second, be sure to buff the leather out by hand after the conditioner has been absorbed. This makes the leather look SO much nicer. Hope this helps.
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