djspawn00

well if it runs great and everything else is in tip top shape.. $5900 would be a good deal... $6900 not so much... considering its not fuel efficient... and you probably have to change the timing belt again...

:P maybe thats what he wants is dudes asking him ?'s or maybe he just wants dudes. who knows. 2 each their own real fuc-in cute stop actin stupid! and thanks for the advise about the air filter and tune up im working on it right now as we speek! that dam sc400 killed me with the tune up and extra stuff it was asking for but it helped out alot! i tell yo what it runs like a champ. i havent had any gs spank me at the light lmao true hp car does sick burnouts with killer posi marks its good for over 145mph runs all day long :chairshot: I guess I know why your MPG is suffering! :D

make sure you didn't knock and hoses loose... without the CEL code we know about as much as you at this point...

maybe she lost a key and didn't want to admit it... these cars are not easy to steal.. they are steelable but not an easy target....

If you're losing coolant from your heater core do to a leak then your car is overheating because of no coolant... as far as aftermarket goes... PROLIANCE Part # 399284 for about $200 from rockauto.com

you can... i concur...

Michellin Pilot Exalto's are good for the money... but use the search button, this has been covered in many threads...

I like the ace...

Clean your MAF and throttle body... also check your air filter... on average I get between 16-18mpg... and thats mostly highway... my mileage sucks in part because NY gas sucks and I'm due for new spark plugs... also i use cruise control instead of just... coasting i guess... coasting a little more and not taking off from every red light that turns green would probably help my mpg go up a mile or two... To get your actual mpg fill up your tank... reset your trip meter... drive... drive some more... next time you buy gas fill up the tank again... divide the number of miles that you drove by the number of gallons that you bought to fill up your tank again... also $30 is only about 10gallons if even that much... so 50miles and the needle is halfway sounds plausible... *Needle is notoriously inaccurate on any car* 22" inch will kill your mileage... braking... acceleration and it probably won't get you any women... just more dudes asking you how you fit 22's....

you'll be fine with 5000 miles if you use an OEM filter and synthetic oil... but then again... you'll probably be fine for 5000 miles regardless...

taking the door panels off takes all of 5 minutes... not too hard really.... I think the stock speaker sizes were like 4 inches on my 2gs3... its probably around that size...

how low do you want to go? and what tire size are you running? Also whats the offset of the wheel? You can lower... but you don't have to.. its all up to you... put the wheels on... if you hate the gap that much then decide what method you want to use...

mobil1 is synthetic..... and don't listen to the guy at autozone... he's not a technician he's a salesmen.

I removed my stock sub and ported right through the opening on my gs300... just make sure to break up the plastic stuff on the grill, it rattles...

what specific code are you getting? bank one sensor 1 or bank one sensor 2 If you got po141 then this write up is useful... its for a GS3 but same engine... http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=291011 i usually get denso sensors from rockauto.com but you can probably just wire up a universal denso sensor and save a few bucks...

I want that option... but i don't have the $15k it would probably cost me.... do you accept checks?

a couple of thousand would be too much.... unless everything else is 110%. if you plan on keeping the car then go for it. painting it won't add much to the value if you plan on selling it. too bad you're not in NY i could get you an excellent paint job for about $1200

cracking when turning? sounds like control arms like brian said... bearings go for about $40 each and you'll need two for upfront. I wouldn't go to the dealership also, save your money. Have whoever is doing the work check the ball joints and inspect the tie rods.

Toyota Type IV is the safest route but I'm up to try the Amsoil. Many others have tried it and I haven't heard a single complaint.. who knows I may be the first complaint but Amsoil makes good products and I'm willing to give them a shot. http://www.smartsynthetics.com/articles/au...oyota_Honda.htm

lmfao, good stuff.

I would've thought a bad coil... but as I've proven a few post before... i can be wrong. :( do your cats get red hot?

make sure it isn't just the bulb... take the bulb out and test it on the other ballast... if the bulb lights up, grab an OEM ballast off of ebay... if its just the bulb... you know what to do... I haven't heard anything about the steering, goodluck with that one.

WTF... I don't know where your IS came from but I'm pretty certain is not a CVT transmission.... you have either a 5speed manual or automatic tranny. Toyota Type IV ATF is red... not brown.... when its brown its time for a fluid exchange... gear oil is brown/golden Toyota Type IV ATF is the safest way to go but you can use Amsoil Universal ATF fluid or the Royal Purple stuff as well. I also believe Mobil1 synthetic ATF was recently approved for use but I'd just use the Toyota stuff to be safe. Like is was previously stated for the mix up, just pour the same amount of fluid that was drained back in through the dipstick although I would recommend you get new fluid...

A lot of people praise the amsoil tranny fluid but i guess their info is more subjective than anything. I use the toyota fluid but I will be doing a fluid exchange with the amsoil fluid sometime in the future...

sounds like you'll need a harness... or three.... you can probably get some used ones from different parts dealers on clublexus.com