djspawn00

If you just want to add HID's to your non HID headlights then you can pick up a plug and play kit from ddmtuning.com... just know that you wont have autoleveling and some people frown upon that.

There are so many things that rattle... could be a broken clip under the dash (PITA), heat shields, small animals.. jk.. isolating the noise may prove a little annoying..

wow this is an old thread.. I recently replaced my control arms and balljoints upfront but i went aftermarket for my parts.. saved a bundle. I went with Beck/Arnley.

I would get it done sooner than later... especially if you have a GS300 with vvti... if you're a non vvti owner.. eh.. I wouldn't worry much.

+1 for checking that wiring/harness. I hope you at least kept the old barely used sensors.

feeling it through the steering wheel, or is the whole car just shaking? Sounds bad, time to take a look underneath...

have them fix it.. and if they can't fix it have them pay for someone who can. I never go to the stealership... but they do have the computer needed to bleed the brakes properly...

i've used seafoam on several vehicles, don't expect a mechanic or miracle in a bottle, but other than that it does what it says... unless i've just been lucky.

This is some type of piggyback ecu? Does it let you upload your own MAPS?

To The TOP!

it is 100amps. Although mine is 200amps :D

BUMP THIS UP! PRICE LOWERED!

PM me a quote. Thanks! 11553

Rockford Fosgate T1500-1bd 1500w Amp, Brand New In Box, Never used asking $475 (Price Lowered to $400). Rockford Fosgate T600-4 600w 4 channel amp asking $375. These are an excellent set of amps for anyone looking to a system build. Willing to make deals to local buyers who want both. Rockford Fosgate T1500-1bd * RMS Output @ 4 ohm: 500W x 4 * RMS Output @ 2 ohm: 1000W x 4 * RMS Output @ 1 ohm: 1500W x 4 * CEA-2006 compliant * 24dB/octave crossover * 4 Gauge power/ground terminals * Audiophile grade speaker connections * Infrasonic filter * MOSFET output stage * MOSFET power supply * RCA pass-thru * Cast aluminum heat sink * Dynamic thermal magnet * MEHSA(3) to reduce MOSFET temperatures, lower distortion, and increase durability and lifespan * Punch Bass EQ * DSM to increase circuit efficiency and eliminate cross-talk from other components * Power, Thermal, Protect visual indicators * Class bd circuit topology * 2.14" x 8.14" x 14.91" Rockford Fosgate T600-4 600W 4 Channel Amplifier * RMS Output @ 4 ohm: 100W x 4 * RMS Output @ 2 ohm: 150W x 4 * 300 watts RMS x 2 bridged output at 4 ohms (2-ohm stable in bridged mode) * CEA-2006 compliant * Dynamic Thermal Management cooling system * Differential Input circuitry eliminates hum * Variable high- and low-pass filters (20-500 Hz, 24 dB/octave) * Variable bass/treble boost (0-18 dB at 45 Hz, 0-12 dB at 12k Hz) * Optional remote bass/treble boost * Class-AB amplifier design * MOSFET power and output stages * Preamp inputs and outputs * 14-15/16"W x 2-1/4"H x 9-5/8"D

Happy Belated!

maybe its your tranny mounts... how many miles are on your car? does is jerk when shifting in drive or only from reverse to drive?

Hmmmm fresh oil... did you recently have the oil changed and some spilled when they pulled the filter off? clean it up with some break parts cleaner and see if you can pinpoint the leak.

i was actually looking for a second set of winter wheels... too bad i'm not local. Bump this back up.

yep, you can get the motor on ebay. they work well and its not too difficult to change. I think one of the ebay pages have a direct link to the DIY guide for the 2gs.

um.....u could JUST unbolt this beam instead of cutting through it you know hahaha, you're right. I never considered it so i never gave it much thought. I'm gonna need your advice when it comes time to redo my current configuration... I've been out of the loop for a long time and I'm thinking of turning things up a notch... my temp system has been in for a year... time to upgrade is coming soon.

I got my parts from a toyota dealership... irontoad.com belts, cam seals, water pump, ect... paid $350 for labor. any competent mechanic can do it... its really not too difficult on our cars just make sure whoever does it is aware that your engine has vvti and is an interference engine.

Use only OEM plugs... I used an NGK wire set because it was the only thing available at the time. I'm not sure if it was necessary but I figured for another $50 why not...

just use the stock sub opening to place your port... but it also depends on the type of box you're going to use... You can port through the armrest but you'll have to cut through that metal beam shown in the pics...

I agree here... OEM is the best route to go.. some people go with Torque Master Plugs but I would also go OEM.