djspawn00

you can use the mobil1 high mileage if you want... although i don't use high mileage oil.. some crazy old guy that was rummaging through a dumpster once told me that it just has an additive to swell your seals slightly... similar to some stop leak products...

race

whoops, i completely skipped the whole window part, i was just referring to the transmission.. ... damn a.d.d. but like brian said that may be a C-best option, you'll have to go to the dealer and let them plug in their fancy schmancy computer to change that.

I see you read this and went through the trouble anyway! :chairshot:

so its not overheating but you think its still too hot? did you plug in a OBDII diagnostic tool and get higher than average readings for your temperatures? You do know the temp gauge is normally slightly above half way on a lot of lexus vehicles right??? I assume you also know about stoichiometric points.... also the thermostat also helps with cooling... one half of the coolant gets hot while the other half gets cooled... no thermostat and all the coolant can just heat up....

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CFUPMQ you can get this at pepboys, autozone, probably anywhere except a supermarket.... I'm pretty certain thats what you need if the OEM wire burned out...

I'm on long island... they're pretty good with salting out here and it rarely sticks... when it does the plows hit the roads quickly... when it does really come down I've still managed to get around in the GS... even though I do have and chevy blazer and I just got a 4runner... I just wouldn't take my 350z out in the snow... i barely take that thing out in the rain... it scares me a lil...

you can just disconnect your battery, that should reset a few things.... check your fluid too... harsh shifting becomes very obvious in our cars when the fluid is dirty...

Changing the OIL is FUN and EASY... well its easy... i dunno about fun... you'll need 6qts of 5w-30 I used synthetic oil... what brand you use is all up to you. (amsoil, mobil one, castrol ect... The filter type if you're not using an OEM filter is 3614 (Fram) I believe... You don't need to change the drain plug gasket after every change... its just just a washer... There are plenty of DIY post around here or on the other lexus forums but I'll just give you a quick run through... secure the car on jack stands or ramps... make sure your parking brake is engaged firmly if you're gonna use a ramp... open up the filler cap, slide under the car, remove the drain plug, i think its a 14mm socket, I don't remember, its probably smaller if anything... let it drain for a few minutes.... unscrew the old filter (counter clockwise) be prepared to see some oil spilling... dip your finger in some new oil and lube the gasket on the new filter, put the new filter on, tightly, but not too tightly... clean the drain plug and the area around the drain plug and put the plug back on.. once again tightly, but not too tightly, you really don't want to strip anything. grab a funnel add 6 quarts assuming you let all the old oil drain out... you can go 5.5 then check the dipstick and add more slowly to suite... start the car... let it run... check for leaks... no leaks... great... you're good to go. I could go into more detail and suggest you wait a few minutes so you don't burn yourself on a hot engine... but you should know that...

damn, 1300 isn't cheap.... buy the part online, stick with OEM, and have a reputable shop do the job... use the money you saved and buy yourself a 5 year supply of little tree air freshners or pay bills whatever...

New shocks would help some.... if you want to go all out, get some TRD or Daizen sways and throw in some higher performance springs...

I've seen there work and they do an excellent job. Much better than any $150 carwash detail where they just throw some cheap wax on your car and run a buffer over it. http://www.glimmerglassdetailing.com/services.html

rwd+snow=fun ... just kidding, yeah I love my GS3 but its not a snow champ... it rarely snows in NY and when it does the main roads are plowed quickly so its not an issue for me...

I always wondered if this was actually necessary... I guess its worth a shot, nothing to complex here.

did toyota extend the warranty on your engine to 100k? they did for me... due to the sludge issue, I'd check in with them.. you never know maybe you can save yourself a few bucks...

If you want a real beast and a hole in your pocket.. go for built engine and find yourself a built transmission to handle that beast... http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread...ighlight=engine

I'm not sure if you can power an aftermarket sub with the stock ML amp and get good results... you'll probably be better off adding a second amp... also are those subs free air subs? or would you be setting it up in some type of enclosure?

I'm also a conservative that's voting for Barry.

hey, i saw this post on both forums but I'm only going to reply here.... you can get your parts from various online vendors... I found irontoad.com to be the cheapest for OEM parts... if you want some aftermarket parts rockauto.com has treated me well. The timing belt job should cost roughly half of what the dealer is charging... or less including parts and labor... an independent shop can do it as long as they are familiar with interference engines... hopefully someone in your area can chime in on this. The fluid changes can be done by anyone... you can DIY if you've got the time... unless you're doing a transmission flush which you can DIY but it may be easier to somewhere that has the machine for it. Alignment usually runs between$65 independent, and $99 at some lexus dealers in my area *they often have coupons and specials. I can't really say much about the other issues but i'm pretty certain a competent mechanic can take care of those things without much issue. Our cars are not really that complicated at all. Goodluck, keep us posted.

I put a new gatorback accessory belt in and the next day I went to the dealer... they told me I needed to have my my accessory belt changed because it was worn... point of this pointless story is don't always trust the dealer.... and if you buy OEM parts... buy them online not at the dealer...

dude, thats normal.... just a lil past the halfway point...

Like he said.. insert the key into the drivers side door and hold it in the closed position... I added an aftermarket alarm so now i can close my windows without having to do that... its the only way I can impress kids and old people... :whistles:

... i have a feeling someone is going to set their car on fire with wd40 after reading this.....

The chrome pillars were a gift but I know they came from ebay, its was a 6 piece set and I'm pretty certain it went for like $50... I'll have to ask the person who got them for me who the seller was. As far as the wheels go, they are MRR Sherlock Society M22 wheels.... only 9 sets made. Lets just say I got em for cheap because I live in NY and wheels tend to be eaten alive by our roads. They meet VIA, Japanese Light Weight alloy (JLW) and TUV standards so they actually hold up pretty well.

You don't have to add Cat's... if you add cats you might as well leave it stock... what you do get is an 02 simulator which pretty much replaces the post cat 02 sensor and relays information back to your ECU as if though you had a functioning cat... you'll pass inspections in most states that just use the OBDII diagnostic port.