JDOwen2

First thing that comes to mind is the serpentine belt routing. Or possibly that the belt tensioner is shot.

You need this:inside door handle

Might be an exhaust leak.

Changed thermostat and cap, all's well. Now my Vette has a coolant leak. It never ends.

I just finished draing the coolant, replacing thermostat, and refilling. A few tips: the rear drain plug is visible if you are stooping over passenger fender and look over the maze of brake pipes coming out of the ABS controller. It's peeking out from under the exhaust manifold. I removed the heat shield (4 12mm nuts) to make access easier. The drain plug is a 14mm brass plug. I used a socket with a flex joint and an extension to get at it. You only have to loosen the plug to get it to drain. It's sort of a petcock affair. Getting the thermostat was fairly easy. The front nut (10mm) was removed using a ratcheting box end wrench. The rear nut (10mm) was removed using a ratchet with a small extension. I suggest you cover the alternator with plastic because there will be a small amout of coolant trapped behind it. While I was waiting for the coolant to drain I noticed a large accumulation of dirt because of a valve cover leak. I found that the last three bolts on the passenger side were very loose. I tightened up all the ones I had easy access to. I guess the next job will be to degrease the engine. I used Dexcool since the stuff I removed was red.

To remove the two plugs in the middle you have to remove your throttle body. You'll have to remove the intake plumbing from the air cleaner back and then remove the cables for the cruise control, throttle, and cable that goes to auto transmission if you have one. I needed a six point socket to get the bolts off mine, the twelve point socket was starting to round off the nuts. Be patient and don't forget to use anti-seize compound on the new plugs. While you have it apart now would be a good time to get some carb cleaner and clean the throttle body, plenum and and intake tract. Mine was covered with a dark brown gummy crud. Seafoam works well.

I just replaced the radiator on my SC300. I was losing about a quart a week and noticed that the insulator between the radiator and core support was soaked with coolant. In the process of changing out the radiator hoses I noticed that the lower hose looked like it was leaking near the block. I'm guessing the radiator was not the original problem. After driving for a few days my wife says she can smell something like it's overheating but the temp gauge never moves. I took a peek under the hood and I can see where coolant was expelled on top of the cover between radiator and A/C condensor. I'm going to try and find a radiator cap (new Lexus dealer by me doesn't stock a lot of parts) and hope that clears up the problem. I should have looked closer at the problem in the first place. Anyone else have other ideas?

Read this:Console bulb replacement

I've been thinking of putting a paintball gun somewhere behind the front end with a remote control.

A/C components He's either covering up for his ignorance or trying to milk the job. Either hose is less than $70.00. Maybe he broke one of the hoses and is waiting for the part. If you have other problems in the future, post it here and get some ideas as to what the fix might be.

A few more details would be helpfull What is it doing? Any noises? Remote work on driver's door? Can you open it from inside?

I should have been more specific. The tensioner pulley is located about 5 o'clock below the tensioner. You can sneak a socket/ratchet combination between the radiator shroud and the tensioner pulley. I took off the upper radiator hose to facilitate the process.

I pulled the alternator and took it to Checker. I was thinking maybe the rectifier bridge may have been fried but it tested good. I'm lost now.

You need a 14mm socket, put on tensioner and turn clockwise to loosen and simultaneouly pull belt off the power steering pump pulley.

Anyone have the wiring diagram for charging circuit for a 95 SC300? I've replaced the 120Amp fusible link 3 times. Still searching for the cause.

If the "mechanic" is complaining about difficulty he either wants more money or doesn't know what he is doing. I'd go somewhere else.

If you are the least bit mechanically inclined you can tackle the belt and gasket yourself. The cluster problem is another story. Offer $5,000.00 and don't be afraid to walk away. There are better deals out there.

The BFI and an electric fan are your best bet. Underdrive pulleys might give you a few extra horsepower but it's not worth the money.

Being that your car is going on 13 years old it might be wise to replace all belts and hoses. New plugs, cap and rotor wouldn't hurt either. Also change all fluids: coolant, engine, transmission and rear end lubricants. And flush the brake fluid. That should keep you busy for a few weekends. :D

What with the Maytag repairman stopping over (dishwasher), being domestic, (wash clothes and dishes) and my stepson getting a DUI at 4 in the morning, I'll be checking it out later today. That was my next move but I really wasn't near the alternator except to take off the bottom hose.

I replaced my radiator last week and upon reassembly the 120A fusible link marked Alt blew. Had to wait until Monday when Lexus opened to get one. That one popped also. I thought my connecting the POS (+) terminal last was the cause. Lexus had to special order another. Picked it up today and reassembled putting the NEG (-) terminal on the battery last and it popped again. I don't have Vol 3 of the Lexus Bibles and am now lost. Anyone have a clue as to what the trouble might be?

Or you could fly me from Phoenix and I'll change your plugs for $225.00 :D

The synthetic oil will not "cause" a leak, it's just more likely to find a leak.

It may look like a BFI but it doesn't extend through the radiator support so you'll be sucking hot underhood air. You may loose HP. I'd recommend the BFI. It's cheaper than anything out there.

I have 245/45/17s on IS300 wheels and I think it looks great. I say go for it.