JDOwen2

Thanks for the website. I'll order a pair!

You need a 168 wedge type bulb. I checked the Sylvania website and couldn't find a Silverstar for that fitment. I have all my lights changed to Silverstars except that one.

Got it! To remove a fusible link one must remove the two hex head bolts that retain the fuse box cover then pull apart the wiring harness. The fusible links have a screw-in connection on each side and the screws must be removed to pull out the link. No one has one in stock and hopefully Lexus will carry one when I call tomorrow.

Running lights, cornering light, fog lights. What are you trying to change?

It's not a weather vane or Weopons of Mass Destruction detector is it?

The 120A fuse for the starter blew during reconnecting the battery cables after my radiator change. This project started out innocent enough and escalated when I decided to get new radiator hoses. During reconnecting the battery cables, the positive terminal end bent and is now FUBAR'd. Checker had a generic end and I put that on. Looks like crap. I tried pulling out the fuse with needle nose pliers and sparks were flying so I'll regroup tonight and try in the morning. Anyone know how to pull that fuse without dire consequences?

When was last last tune-up done? I would suggest a top end cleaner like SeaFoam as well as a fuel system cleaner.

I didn't have to "restart" mine after I changed the battery. You may have another problem. Check your fuses.

Get a mast replacement from Lexus. Did a search and found this: You can replace the antenna yourself very easily, but it is really easy if you have a helper. First, you unscrew the bezel surrounding the base of the antenna. This has 4 slots coming out radially from the center. You can use a pair of pliers around the outside rim, but put a rag or piece of leather between the pliers and the bezel to keep from scratching it. Second, turn on the ignition and turn on the radio. This is where a helper comes in so they can turn on this stuff and you can be by the antenna when it starts coming out. The motor will just keep extending it until the antenna and the white nylon rack gear come out in your hand. As it is coming out, keep track of the direction the gear teeth on the nylon section are pointing so you can insert the new one in the same orientation. The fact that yours is bent and still operating probably means the whole nylon section is intact, but compare lengths of the old and new one and look at the end of the old one just to be sure some of it is not left in the motor. Third, place the new nylon mast in the antenna tube with the gear teeth pointing in the same direction as the old teeth came out. Press it in gently and turn off the radio. As the motor retracts the new antenna, feed it in as straight and as gentle as possible. I have been told not to put grease on the new mast, even though the old one comes out with a lot of grease on it. Opinions may vary on this. Replace the bezel and you are done. If the new mast does not go in just right the first time, you can turn off the radio, let the mast entend back out, and try again. You need to handle the mast without forcing it. The utility of a helper is that all this happens faster than you would expect. You can do it by yourself, but you have to be quick, and there is a risk of the mast scratching paint. Good Luck. Bill Harrison

You can also get green and red felt washers that are treated to absorb and neutralize battery acid. Any auto parts store should carry them.

Might need a TV cable adjustment. Or a fluid change.

I have been losing a small amount of coolant everyweek for the past month. I noticed a reddish crud around the top tank seam. I suspect that is my leak. I found U.S. radiator on line and ordered a oem radiator for about $200.00. Lexus wanted over $400. My new saturday project.

16? Any you're going to drive a Lexus? Your parents must be loaded. Get an old Honda and save them some money.

ECT (electronically controlled transmission) holds the transmission in each gear longer for performance, as opposed to shifting earlier for economy.

You could use header wrap on your exhaust pipes to help the heat issue. The noise is only an issue if you think it is or something breaks. I, personally, don't like unknown noises and would pursue a fix.

You certainly could rebuild your calipers, new pistons and seals and maybe a hone job are in order.

Get a wrecked donor car and swap everything over. Pedals, bellhousing, clutch, pressureplate, trans, driveshaft, etc. And some more money.

One of these? Power steering

Sounds like your pistons are sticking causing the pads to drag. Get some Supra TT calipers and rotors.

I'd check the battery posts and terminals for a bad connection. Maybe the alternator next.

Just switched to Amsoil 5w-30 after using Mobil 1 for years.

If your're serious about this purchase have an independent inspection done. The noise while braking may be an ABS issue. Did the second owner have the collision work done? Receipts? The inspection should tell you what codes are present. A possible negotiation tool to lower the price.

Or try this:Bushings

Mine just died after a trip to the store. Replaced battery and it wouldn't start. Cleaned battery posts and cable ends and it started right up, no trouble since.

Go to that website. You can change year and model number and use the parts menu on the left side. I just ordered p/s pump, dist cap and rotor from them.