Do Not Sell My Personal Information Jump to content

JDOwen2

Regular Member
  • Posts

    403
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by JDOwen2

  1. The SC400 came with power automated telescoping/tilting steering wheel, and the third brake light was mounted inside the spoiler as opposed to on the rear dash behind the windshield in the SC300. The SC400 has larger disc brakes (11.7-inch front & 12.1-inch rear) compared to the SC300 (10.8-inch front & 11.4-inch rear). The SC300 had an optional but very rare velour (gray or tan) interior and optional but very rare hard top (no moonroof). (courtesy of Intellexual.net)
  2. I think it's a coinsidence that your manifold and converter are glowing after an engine cleaning. It would appear that your converter is bad. Any competent shop should be able to verify if this is the case. Check to see if any fuses are blown also.
  3. Found this on another Lexus site: Ok here it goes. First step: Remove the door Panel This is possibly the hardest part, and may require a helper to hold the panel so you dont damage the speaker or pull any cables out of their connectors. You need to first unscrew the panel from the metal part via a couple of screws. Most of them are concealed under plastic panels to preserve aesthetics. 1 is under a panel behind the door pull. Pry it off carefully with a flathead screwdriver. The hinge point is towards the front of the car so pry near the lock. 2 more are located behind a panel at the edge of the vinyl lining. Pop that sucker off carefully with that flathead. 2 more are located underneath the arm wrest, and 2 more are. There are a few more (im going to look tomorrow and edit this because i cant remember exactly where they are located) remove these as well. The door panel will still be stuck however because there are plastic fasteners that hold it on as well so dont try and force the panel off you might break something This next part of removal is kinda tricky. You need to pop the fasteners out of their holes, and the best method i have found is to put a wood shim between the metal and the panel, and pull gently at each fastner with a crow bar. However you do this you should be careful because Im sure you dont want to scratch your metal. After you have the panel freed, dont lift it away just yet because there are connectors that work your electronics and door opening/closing. This is where it is nice to have a helper to hold the panel as you undo all the connectors. The connectors are as follows: Seat Memory unit Lock cable Door handle cable Window switch unit Mirror adjustment unit Convience light unit Each of the connectors for the electronics can be removed with a very small flat head screwdriver. Each connector has a clip that keeps it from coming loose with vibration. Push on the clip to disengage it from the receptical. The most tricky connector was the window switch unit. This one caused me a bit of a headache, but stick with it, youll get that sucker out! There are 2 cables for the Door handle and the Lock mechanism. The door handle cable stow is a snap fit, and just needs to be popped out. The end of the cable has a small T shaped bar that fits into an appropriate receptical that is mounted on the door handle. Your effort in pulling the door handle pulls that cable, and opens the door. On the lock mechanism, there is a simlar T shaped cable, but the stow is adjustable. Undo the 2 clips on the clearish plastic barrel with your handy flathead and pull that thing out. Now you are done removing the door panel and done with the hardest part!!!!!!! Step 2: Now we see the problem First thing you will notice is your speakers (now you know how to undo the door panel if you want to replace your stock speakers later on! ) Second thing is a clear plastic cover to prevent any water from ruining your panel. Get a good grab on that plastic and peel it off. It is held by a gummy black sealing adhesive, and you can reuse it, so be careful not to bunch up the plastic, or scrape off the adhesive. Now you can gaze into that dark chasm that is your inner door. At this point if you need to drive your car you still can, you can lock the door and open it from the inside if you pull on the door handle cable. (I did, its pretty ghetto ) Ok so now you can access the outer door handle mechanism and the problem. I need to explain how the handle mechanism works at this point. Basically there is a lever that is connected to the handle. As you pull it up, this pulls a cable which opens your door. The end of the cable is a hard bent metal piece that is cliped into the handle with a yellow plastic piece
  4. Have you done the BFI yet? Maybe your new tires/wheels are heavier or different diameter. Tune-up lately?
  5. I tried putting Supra TT brakes on the front with the 5 spokes and the rims didn't clear the rotors. The TT brakes did fit the back. I have since sold the rotors and calipers.
  6. I have IS300 wheels on my 95. I don't know the weight but they're lighter than the stock 16"s
  7. I got the actuator off Ebay. I posted the part numbers for the clips awhile ago. You could also try a salvage yard.
  8. I replaced my passenger side door actuator. Originally the small white plastic clip that hods the actuator rod to the door handle broke. I tried unsuccesfully to make something work because I couldn't find the clip. After removing the door panel I removed the cross beam to gain access to the actuator. I had to take out the door handle for a little more access and unbolted the actuator. I removed the four screws holding the rear window track and was able to pull the actuator out with a little fumbling around. I installed the new actuator but had to install the plastic clips onto the door handle with the door handle removed from the body. Took me an hour and a half. Getting the lock set to line up was the hardest part. Toyota sells the clip, Lexus doesn't.
  9. I found this on another site:California cracks down. I'm not sure what to think.
  10. Re: ?#2 You have to take out the back seat. Unless you want to remove the gas tank.
  11. Cowl shake is only applicable to the convertible.
  12. Torque converter if it's an auto. Cam change, bigger throttle body and port and polish the head.
  13. You could add one of those Turbinators(?) or even an electric supercharger and really make some power! Add some nitrogen in your tires and you'd really be sippin gas.
  14. If you peruse previous posts using the search function you will find cowl shake with attending rattles as a major annoiance. Run flat tires are stiff and don't add to the comfort. Rear seat is good for carrying small objects. Style and grace are strong suits. I'd rather have a new Corvette.
  15. I took mine to a shop and had them rebuild it. It was cheaper than a new one. You have to remove the splash shield underneath the car to gain access. Should take about 30-45 minutes to remove. Make sure your distributer seal isn't leaking onto the alternater.
  16. And you own how many shares of this company? :D
  17. It would appear that you have a leak. Get it pressure tested to find out what is leaking. In my case it was a weak radiator cap.
  18. There's always a small block chevy transplant!
×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership