BMAN1113

Well, I took my car to an auto electrical specialist who was successful in fixing the problem. Althought the previous mechanic stated that he had checked the solenoids and they were fine, after running a full electrical diagnostic, this guy believe they were bad. I really even doubted they were bad because we had put two, seperate, rebuilt transmissions in the car. What are the odds that two, back-to-back, rebuilds would have the same defective solenoid problem (code 62). He said it wouldn't be the first time he had seen it happen. I would only experience the problem after the car had run for a while, especially at highway speed. He explained that alot of solenoids will start to have resistance problems when they get hot, but test fine when cool. That's why the first mechanics testing of the solenoids really meant nothing to the new mechanic. I was still doubtful. I thought, I'll just let him replace the solenoids so that he would be satisfied and we could move on. Well.. that was it!! I couldn't believe it. Two back-to-back dealer (Awtec) transmissions with defective no.1 & no.2 shift soleniods. In-f'ing-credible. The previous mechanic was about to tear into my factory harness and run jumper wires of sorts. Thank God we didn't go there. The car rides incredible now. Smooth, powerful pick-up. Feels new. Happy camper!!!!!

Recently, my transmission started slipping so bad and became undriveable. I had an independant Lexus shop replace the transmission with a factory rebuild ($3800). They stated that it would be coming from the same rebuilder that supplies the dealerships, Awtec (couldn't find them on Google). Anyway, the very first night that I had the car back, I started experiencing intermittent problems when taking-off from a stop. I would hit the gas and it would slowly take-off in what felt like second gear. After a few seconds it would catch and launch forward. This would happen about six or so times a day. Then, on the second day, I noticed my yellow O/D light flashing a bunch of times when the problem appeared. I took it back to the shop and they reported that the computer was throwing a "shift solenoid" code. They stated that they were going to order a new transmission and in a few days I brought it back to have them install it. They installed the new one and said all was running fine. I picked-up the car and, initially, all did seem fine. On the second day the problem was back, but less frequent. I couldn't believe it! I was sick. The O/D light began flashing again, just as before, and, again, the shop stated that it was "shift solenoid". Instead of replacing the transmission the mechanic was convinced that it was something else. The shop gave me a rental car for two weeks while they attempted to find out what was going on. They checked all related wiring and were convinced that it was the computer ($1000) causing problems. They bought and installed the new computer, but the problem persisted. They had to eat that computer because the dealer refused to take it back. After playing with some more of the electronics he called me stating that he believed the problem had mysteriously vanished. After two days of driving, he had experienced no problems. I picked-up the car and, for the first day, all was great. On the second day, again, the problem was back!!! This time, even less frequent. I, again, returned the car and they put me in another rental. After two days he calls me stating that he cant get the car to mess-up. I picked the car up today and about 20 minutes later... you guessed it. I called and let him know and he stated that he is at a loss but is convinced that the problem is not within the transmission. This whole incident has turned into a nightmare for both of us. The free rental cars and labor replacing the first and second tranny have put them in the hole, as well. Can anyone help?. Please!!! Maybe someone has had something like this happen before. Thx

$1300!!!... I was just quoted $5400 from the dealer..... $4500 from a very good dealer alternative and $3600 from some other decent tranny shop. None of them want to rebuild one, though. They all say that that transmission is a b*tch, and that they rarely come out right. This came from a master Lexus mechanic that had previously been with the dealership since 1989. On the other hand, being at the dealership all those years he probably never had to rebuild one. They all just want to swap it out for a factory rebuild. But then again don't they "rebuild" them at the "factory" ? This sucks!! JZZ30.. your $2,200 job came out flawless? Thx

I used Amsoil ATF in my 93' SC400. I started to notice that when I really got on it, the tranny didnt seem to want to engage. The RPMs would just keep climbing and I would have to let off of the gas. At normal driving conditions it felt fine. After putting around with the Amsoil for a year or so I decided to switch back to the Toyota T-IV. At 147K I'm now facing a tranny replacement. I keep wondering if it was the year of Amsoil. I can't say for sure, but I wish I hadn't done it. I dont see how Amsoil can say they have one fluid that covers all brands, and they didn't answer my questions very well. They just kept saying that it was formulated to work in all cars. They could never explain exactly how. Different trannys require different friction quotients from their fluid. The shop that I want to deal with has quoted me $4500 for a factory swap out. This bites!!!. I do, however, swear by Amsoil 0W30, although you may end up having to chase a few leaks at first (ie. valve covers) Hopefully the leaks are only minor. Had I heard about this common occurance before switching, I may have decided not to do it. I went to Amsoil at 87K and had to replace the valve cover gaskets a couple of months later. Bottom line... I would use Amsoil motor oil ONLY!!... and preferably in a new car.

I would also recommend getting a high-end tint job done on your windows. From your pic I can see daylight through your car. Get the fronts maximum legal and limo-out the rear quarters and back. I decided to do this when I put new leather in my car and it is going to benefit the speakers as well. It only takes a couple of Houston summers to start breaking down the speaker material, running the risk of tearing when you crank it. Putting a good metallic blended tint (Llumar was the brand I went with.. Ran about $200 for my SC) on your windows is a lifesaver for your cars interior, not to mention you. Entering my car after it had been sitting in a parking lot for a few hours used to be a nightmare. The tint has cut the heat by about 50%. www.llumar.com

You're in L.A. Just find someone to re-cone the original. That's what I did. Talk to some guys on the music scene. They blow their sh*t out all the time and they should know a good re-coner. The speaker will sound as good as new. I re-coned every speaker in my '93. It sounds killer. That way you arent wondering about compatibility. If I remember right, that bass is like an 8 ohm. Kind of an odd-ball. Lexus and the Nakamichi designers knew what they were doing when they came up with this system and I wouldn't get into trying to jack with adding after-market this and that... unless, of course, you are willing to jerk the whole system and start fresh. Then you could probably do something real nice... but $$$. If you go my route the 4" ers ran $25 and the center bass was $45. Haven't had anymore issues. If you have problems finding a good guy and want to use my dude, give him a ring. It may take a little while to get them back (2 weeks on mine), as he's usually up to his eyeballs in work, which is always a good sign. He's kind of a legend here among people in the music scene. They all go to him... and pretty much him alone. Allen's Speaker Re-Coning 919w 19th ST Houston, TX 77008 713-862-2747

SC's rule. Classic and timeless American body design. One of the top ten production cars ever made. It's a definite keeper. Michael Jordan could have bought any car for his dad and he picked the SC400. Just remember not to park and sleep on lonely country roads. Motels are a whole lot safer.

What am I looking at to have my '93 SC400 transmission rebuilt. $$$ I'm getting a whining sound from right under the shifter when I accelerate. This sucks!! Thanks

Sounds kind of like when one of my decorative exhaust tips on my '93 Sc400 became loose. At a certain RPM the pipe would vibrate just right causing it to make a loud sound, similar to your description (more rattling than grinding). Sounded horrible. Just put the car in park (with emergency brake on), have someone hold on to both tips (when cold!!) and accellerate. See if that takes care of it. I thought I had a catalytic going out or something. It was deceptive because it didnt sound like it was coming from the rear. I guess being connected to a long exhaust pipe tends to throw the sound and make its source hard to detect. My mechanic just secured it with a sheetmetal screw and problem fixed. $0. 00

I know they breathe better, but I just can't help thinking that K&N may not filter as good as factory. I'm with 082. I have had some other brand filters effect the way my car ran. I've had best luck sticking to the factory air filter.

Wow... I think I'll go ahead and hang on to my '93 SC400. lol

The stealerships are way over-rated. I was between mechanics when my A/C quit blowing cold. I thought what the heck, I'll take it to the dealer. They charged me $150 and told me that my evaporator coil (located in the dash) had gone bad and it will be another $1,300 to replace. I went ahead and did it. A few days later I go back to pick up my car. I get in and the steering wheel won't tilt down. I fumble around thinking maybe the switch is off, but everything is on. It drops down about an inch then there is this grinding sound. I show my service advisor and she drives it back to the mechanic. A few minutes later, she drives up saying, "The mechanic was never on the drivers side." She then gets together with her boss and they all start taking on this attitude, like I was trying to pull one over on them. Then back in my car, I find greasy fingerprints around the glove box area. Later that night, I notice that my dash lights aren't on. I find the dimmer knob and click it on. I thought they said they were never on that side of the vehicle. A few days later, we get a rain storm. The following day, I can see condensation build-up in the drivers side headlamp. When I pop the hood, I notice that the compressor happens to be located right behind it. I'm sure the guy laid all over my headlight and broke its seal. I'm f*@king sick of these rip-off artist. I don't need the cappuccinos, just a little competency. I know that these fairly common problems could have possibly happened all at once, but highly unlikely... and those greasy fingerprints were a real touch of class.

Also, I had friends get their cars tinted and find that the back window consists of several pieces. Make sure they are giving you one full piece in the back. Also, if you do go with Llumar, get the lifetime semi-metallic. Llumar makes the cheap stuff too and you don't want it. You can tell the metallic blend because in sunlight, although my tint is black, it has more of a reflective appearance. Makes it hard to see into the vehicle from the outside. Because of this, it's actually easier to see me in my vehicle in low light than in the daylight. Kind of strange. Good luck.

I paid like $160. Worth every penny. That back window was a b*tch. He had to do it twice. Not only is it so cramped back there, but apparently the defroster elements degrade on the older cars ('93) and debris from it gets caught in the new film. I could tell he wasn't a happy camper. He then cleaned the back window very carefully and the second attempt was damn near perfect. This guy was awesome. He took it upon himself to re-do the rear window. Someone who gives a sh*t is a rare thing these days. If anyone is near Houston "X-Treme Auto Tint" on FM1960.

I used to have a musty smell coming from my vents. Then my A/C quit blowing cold. I took it to the Lexus stealership and they said my evaporator coil had sprung a leak. $1450 later I have an ice cold A/C and, sure enough, the odor is completely gone. I guess not cleaning the coil cost me big. Wish I had known a couple of years ago.