steve2006

On the dipstick it did appear reddish brown but to see the true color wipe the dipstick on a piece of white kitchen paper towel.

Print this off and take it with you. If you buy the capacitors get the ones rated at 105 degrees not the 85 degree ones.

The cigar lighter is on the acc supply and is fairly easy to gain access to just make sure you fit an inline fuse.

According to the manual the torque figures are 6.0Nm for the 10mm bolts and 21 Nm for the 12mm bolts ( sorry it's metric)

Isn't there normally a couple of crosshead countersunk screws holding the rotor to the hub flange? Also don't you also have to remove the caliper mounting bracket? Could be completely wrong maybe the rotor has rusted onto the flange.

She found out I had been using it , I am now called Steve Austin the Six Million Dollar Man.........Barely Alive

I have posted this on the UK club but thought you Guys over the pond should also see it. I've even used the US equivalents :D With 100,000 KMs (60,000 miles) now achieved I have been meaning to do a transmission fluid change for some while now, it just annoyed me that in the USA I could buy 12 quarts of Toyota Type IV for a mere £26.00 ( $44.00 Ebay.com) but over here it has cost me £88.00 ($146.50) for 10 litres ( 10.5 quarts) of the stuff and that was with a 10% discount from Sean at Lexus Derby. Anyway no good crying £88.00 compared with a duff transmission is peanuts so I bought the stuff and commenced the operation. I was going to do the flush as described on Lexls but then decided to do the sump pan drain and refill method therefore draining around 2 litres then refilling repeatedly. Up on the axle stands and armed with a 14mm ring and a suitable drain container I released then removed the bolt. As the old oil stream came out it did look a nice cherry red which at this point made me think "has this been done before I bought the car" ( being an import I had no service history dispite making many enquiries). However once I had poured it into an old plastic pop bottle to measure it accurately I was convinced that it was original as it was nearly black in color! I think left much longer I would have had serious problems. So if anyone is "thinking" about this job DO IT! I was lucky to get away with mine but it does show the tolerance of the Lexus transmission to put up with old fluid in this state. I had no noticeable problems with the transmission with the fluid in this state it was still as smooth as silk. Just so you can gasp below is a picture showing the difference.

Seems a coincidence that this happened after the gearbox was replaced but mine did a similar thing after I replaced the starter motor and was due to incorrect adjustment of the kickdown cable which runs from the throttle spindle to the gearbox. Another possible is worn propshaft rubbers.

Hi, To access the door mirror fixings you have to remove the trim ( Lexus call it the Garnish) that goes around the top half of the door frame between the rubber door seal and the glass ( it is color coded to your trim) I know it just clips on and you start removal along the vertical edge ( door lock side) and then unclip it off. Once removed you can then get to the 3 screws holding the door mirror on. I have never removed it so just be careful not to break any clips. Below is an exploded view which may help ( the part to remove is on the top right of the diagram) http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_1993_LEXU...GKA_6701.3.html

I would start by rechecking all the electrical connections are made as there are many sensor plugs to disconnect and reconnect during replacement of the starter motor, particularly the crank sensor wiring, camshaft sensor wiring and although I don't think this would prevent starting the 2 knock sensors in the engine V just in front of the starter motor as these are easily damaged during the starter motor removal/fitting if care is not taken. I assume the battery was disconected during fitting so recheck the immobiliser and main fuses in case anything is wrong in that department. As you had, and therefore assume paid, a mechanic to do the job I would therefore say it is his responsibility to return the car back to you in the same condition you gave it to him except with a fully working starter motor.

That is a fantastic set of tutorials, many thanks for taking the time and trouble to show fellow members the complete proceedure on the later engine.

One of our forum members on the UK club is always breaking LS400s so it might be worth sending him a PM to see if he would be prepared to take one of a worn rack if the solenoid is OK and post it out to you in the USA. If you want to give it a try his username is benfur ( just do a member search on LOC UK) This guy has helped my and other members out in the UK several times and he is very helpful and good with the prices and delivery.

Hi, I did mine about 6 months ago, it's a good 10 hour job as you have to remove the intake manifold and fuel rails. I did have a picture tutorial but cannot find it now. What I would suggest is buy one of the CD ROM manuals on Ebay but as I said it's not an easy job.

Hi, You should only use Toyota Type IV tranny fluid ( it's relatively cheap on your side of the pond unlike in the UK!) If you have a look on the tutorials section of the site below it will give instructions on the proceedure. Much the same with the antifreeze/coolant again only the recommended Toyota fluid should be used due to incompatability when mixing with other non approved types and the fact the engine is alloy. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/transmission/

Hi, Welcome to the LOC, You need a heater in Florida even this time of the year? Have a look at the link below which should help you, if the valve is operated with a cable you should be able to remove the cable and then adjust the lever to the on position manually to get the hot water to flow into the heater. To check if is working get the engine warmed up and carefully feel both the pipes going to the valve, one should be warm and the other cool when the valve is closed, when open both pipes should be equally warm if they are not with the lever tried in both positions it may mean the valve has failed internally therefore needing replacement. http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_1992_LEXU...EPGKA_8716.html

A common cause is removing the dash then switching on the ignition but in your case this does not apply, but disconnecting the battery could cause an electrical glitch and another possible is was the drivers seat moved for some reason. There are electrical connectors under the seat related to the SRS and if someone adjusted the seat position it could have upset the connections with them not having been moved for some time. The only way you will know is to reset the airbag system and then see if the light reappears. If you want to read the stored code before resetting the system follow this link. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html

Hi, Have a look at the link below for access to the codes and what they mean. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html

If you pay for my airline ticket,accomodation and food I will come over and fit it for you :D Or here are the links to fit a new one yourself http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/body/fdoorpanel.html http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/body/fdoorhandle.html

Don't get too carried away, with the symptoms you have check the trunk hinge wiring loom for broken wires before anything else as you will probably find at least the white wire damaged in there which could result in all the problems you are having. As for the AC unit follow the link below for radio removal and then unplug the orange plug at the rear of the unit,remove the 4 screws ( 2 either side) and the AC control unit is out. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/audio/headunit.html

Hi, You could try a breakers yard for the part or Ebay.com if you can find the correct color. If you take the dealer route there are some discount online Lexus suppliers (Sewell Lexus for one) Part number is on this link ( check for the correct color) http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_1996_LEXU...EPGKA_6703.html

Hi, Sounds like the kind of information only seen in the workshop manual,you could try looking on ebay for a CD rom type "copy". There again get a tape measure and check from the ground to the edge of the wheel arch in both modes and see what difference it makes.

From a maintainance/cost point of view the Celsiors have no EGR system fitted as it is not required in Japan so no fiddling about changing that fractured EGR pipe,the radio aerial is part of the heater rear demister so no physical aerial on the rear panel,some models had a "fender Pole" a short electrical aerial type attachment on the front fender to allow you to judge the edge of the car, Celsiors generally have no manufacturers alarm/immobiliser fitted,dependant on the spec their is air suspension,standard springs or TEMS,interiors as mentioned can be velour or leather,they have electrically operated folding mirrors,traction control is fitted

Hi, Try reading the fault codes for the traction control system as this could give you an idea where the problem is,follow the link below for the proceedure and codes. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html

Hi, No problem I've had my LS for nearly 4 years now and this site along with lexls has helped me save some serious money on maintainance including repairing the starter motor, the only job I let my local indie do was the cam belt but even there I bought all the parts from your side of the Pond as they were half the price we have here in the UK One of the major causes of stalling on the LS is a dirty/contaminated throttle body. Below is the tutorial http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/EFI/throttlebody.html Also check all the vacuum pipes to the inlet manifold/plenem chamber as if you have an air leak here it can cause running problems,I doubt the timing is out as it would I think have thrown up an engine management code. Cheers, Steve

door panel removal is here http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/body/fdoorpanel.html Parts info here http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_1990_LEXU...EPGKA_6703.html