steve2006

The water pump is driven off the cam belt and is hidden behind the timing belt covers,if the cam belt is off and you tried to start it won't as the timing will be wrong,if you mean the serpentine belt that's different. You need air (which unless there is a serious blockage you will have),fuel and a spark for an engine to fire so check for these 1st. If there is damage to the front of the engine check the distributor caps as these may have been damaged and wiring in the damaged area.

Hi, You have already posted the same question and I have replied to it

Hi welcome to the LOC. Take it to a local engineering company and ask them to press them in for you as you will never do it without a power press.

Hi, There are quite a few things that can cause the starter not to operate besides the starter motor itself. If you are OK with vehicle wiring and the use of a digital multimeter have a look at the link below for causes and possible solutions. http://www.lextreme.com/dx-starter.html

On 1995 models it should be under one of the front seats (passenger on RHD models so may be passenger on LHD models)

Check the camshaft position sensors,crankshaft position sensor and the wiring to them, may be worth, if not already done,to clean the throttle body/butterfly flap.

Completely remove the serpentine belt and then drive it carefully to the shop, if you leave the belt on it may come off and snag in the bottom pulley which in turn could damage the timing belt,broken timing belt= broken engine! As mentioned before you will have no power steering so be ready for effort on turns, the charging light will be on and don't switch on the aircon.

There won't be a problem with the water pump as this is driven off the cam belt not the serpentine belt,brakes will not be affected as these are powered from the brake booster not connected to the serpentine belt,you will have no power steering,no battery charging or air conditioning with the belt off.

A few more details would help us to help you are you on coil overs or air suspension?

You normally feel a thump as it is put into D the transmission has a "shiftshock" system which should put the transmission into 2nd then 1st when D is selected. There have been cases where the engine/tranny mounts when worn give a similar effect or the prop shaft coupling may be worn.

Hi, Common problem.Everything you need to know is below. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls400/442318-how-to-fix-the-problem-with-non-working-reclining-on-drivers-seat-pictures-inside.html

The level rises as the system pressurises if the temp gauge reading is normal it could be the cap on the expansion tank. Vacuum pumps are normally used on diesel engines to provide the vacuum for the power assisted brakes as there is no inlet manifold vacuum on diesels.

Check the CPS and it's wiring this tells the ECU the crank position of the engine and therefore when to provide a spark if it has failed the ECU will not receive this signal and will not give a signal to the igniters/coils to spark the plugs. Have a look at the topic on the link below from the UK LOC there is a simplified diagram explaining the system. http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=66889&pid=720816&st=0entry720816 One other thing have you pulled the diagnostic codes which may give you a clue as to what is happening?

Sorry just my Brit sense of humour, the tach mech is very delicate and may have been damaged when you replaced the needle,given the previous problems it may be better to get a known good replacement from a breaker.

A common problem is the failure of the coil on the drivers side of the engine and going by your description I would check this out 1st. There are of course other possibles spark plug wires,spark plugs,rotor arms,distributor caps.

If you red line every shift I'm surprised your engine and transmission hasn't died too! :whistles:

It could be something as simple as a control rod come off or a broken linkage. To be sure of the problem you will need to remove the inner door trim panel then you will be able to see what's moving and what's not. As for parts it may be dealer only. If you do need a part # post up a picture of what you need and I will search for it. Just had a look at the exploded diagram and the LS430 uses cable linkages from the door handle to the lock so maybe this has snapped giving you the problem

I'm having a similiar problem with my car. Sometimes I can shift the gear without using the override and sometimes I can't. Brake lights are working and mechanic says brake switch is fine. How can I easily remove the wood trim? Mechanic says whole center console must be pulled out and that will be a lot of $! #1 find another mechanic! #2 follow the link below 1st picture shows trim removal http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/audio/headunit.html

It's because so many of us have dealt with the exact same problem on our gen 1 LS400's. Sometimes I wake up at night screeming "IT'S THE LEFT TRUNK HINGE WIRES!!! THERE'RE BROKEN!!! AHHHHHH!!!". The remote for opening the trunk is not working for a while. Does that have anything to do with the broken wires? If it does, how come it's still not working after the wires are fixed? thanks in advance. Check to make sure the key lock near the trunk release isn't locked in as this disables the remote release, if it is in use the master key to unlock it

I seem to remember someone saying you can get an additive for the gas tank which absorbs the water in there. There is no drain plug on the tank so removal then flush is the only way, the gas tank is in the boot behind the rear seat upright,I don't know what kind of a job it is to remove sorry. As I say to all members in Florida I am always willing to fly over and fix your LS400s if you pay my airfare from the UK,as soon as I am done repairing it's straight to Ft.Lauderdale for a cheap cruise or two!!! :D

I've just looked up the part # for the front shock absorbers and I get a different part # 48010-50110 this is for a RHD European model with the model type UCF30R-AEAGKW. If you can provide the one on your car I will check the part # again.

New "shock absorbers" or dampers require priming before fitting this may be your problem. Prime the shock absorber Always prime the shock absorber by pulling and pushing the piston rod in and out several times before installation-this must be done with the shock absorber in the same position it will be in when installed under the vehicle (normally vertical). Also don't forget the lower arm may have swung down lower than is the norm after disconnecting the old shock absorber. Don't be offended but you haven't got the fronts and rears mixed up have you either physically or by part #

Telling us at the beginning that the O/D light was also flashing would have helped us to help you. Follow the link below for code reading. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html I assume that the transmission fluid is good,of the correct type and the level is correct? Do the diagnostic codes for the A/T, possible suspects apart from the above is a defective shift solenoid

Start with the easiest, check all the fuses the ECU seems to think the lights are on with the dash dimming working. There are 2 fuse boxes one under the dash and one in the engine bay. The washer fluid level warning is a common problem caused by the sensor attached to the reservoir there was a repair guide somewhere on the UK forum.

If the EGR valve is stuck fully open it can give the problems you describe, is there excessive smoke coming from the exhausts? I know you have checked the coils but have you checked the distibutor caps and rotor arms?