914lps

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About 914lps

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    Advanced Club Member

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  • First Name
    Mike

Profile Information

  • Lexus Model
    91 LS 400
  • Lexus Year
    1991
  1. Wow... You found one I had not seen.... Not cheep by any means... But if it works... Have you used it? I'm not sure it will fit as when you slide the factory cup holders out and open, there is not much clearance between the arm rest. But I'll look into this. Thank you.
  2. Could have been a ground fualt. If it was then you may kill this new unit until you find out why it ground faulted. But no way to tell without opening up the failed unit. Some AutoZone stuff is not the best. But that is not why they did not check it. They did not check it becouse they did not care. It was bad. They were not looking to sell you one. So they just gave you a replacement and tossed the old one on the bad pile.
  3. It may be the gear. If it is and you need more then the washer fix, new gears are not expensive. Rock Auto has them. You will find the search feature on forums to be if great help. In general before posting please run a search on not only the forum, but on your favorite search engine. Most videos will even come up on a search engine. But it helps to search YouTube directly. The only frustrating thing can be if you get so many responce and most are off subject that the results are useless. Like if you search for 95 Lexus Ls400 radiator cap and get everything that has the word cap in it. So it helps to learn the advanced search options. We welcome you.
  4. Well not a very technical topic I know. But I'm sure most of you know those 90 though 02 cup holders don't hold those monster drinks of today. My Yete style mug dose not even fit. I have done some research on Ls400 and cup holders and not found anything other then how to's on the factory units. I'm wondering what other Ls400 folks are using from the aftermarket so you don't have to hold you cup as you drive. Or sort of use a towel or something to wedge it against the empty pasanger seat. And so on. I have found the ones that go over the top of the door and into the window area not very good. They get loose and fallout. Or they let larger drinks fall out and so on. On the ones that wedged between the seats and the center council... Well if someone is seating in the seat, they are hard to use at best. I have not tried the type that fit onto the A/C vents. Have any if you? Please post your solution and with pictures if you can. Thank you.
  5. I'm not sure buying and swiping out the streeing column is the way to go. Can you tell me what you base doing that on? I already bought the gear to fix the tilt issue. Not an expensive part. I'm guessing that adjusting the loose fit on the wiper switch is an easy thing. Maybe even just a set screw? Just need to find someone that knows about it. And as for the horn, it may just be one wire to replace. Also craigslist is not like eBay. You don't just look at it. It is devided by states and city's. And most likely I can do better on a guaranteed part like a steering column by buying from a recycler. I find a lot of recyclers offer very good guarantees on their used parts.
  6. Hi, All my door locks work as they should accept the pasanger rear door. It will only lock or unlock manually. I understand Lexus does not use a door lock solenoid. But instead actually uses a gear motor to lock and unlock the door. And that that motor is costly. Anyone know of a good how to on fixing this? Anyone have any luck converting over to a cheep door lock solenoid? Any help will be appreciated. Thank you.
  7. Hi, I'm having some issues with my horn, the wiper controllers and the tilt wheel. Let's start with the horn. If I trigger the alarm the horn will sound. But 99.999% of the time if I push on the horn nothing happens. Now if I keep pushing on the horn as I turn the steering wheel lock to lock I will get a beep or two. So I'm assuming my horn issue is in the steering wheel. Anyone know of any how to's on fixing this? The horn is important to have. Any posable parts I'm likely to need? Also the tilt wheel no longer goes up or down automatically or manually. I bought a new gear. Any good how to's on replacing it? Lastly the wiper washer controller. The parts that turn to put wiper blades on or off etc., seem loose. Any info on this would be a great big help. Unfortunately the car sat for around a year not running. I got hurt and can't do the stuff I used to do. Also had the bad luck of bad mechanics working on it. I found a great mechanic that works out of his home and he will work with me. He is not experanced in Lexus but he is a all-around good guy. So I just have to provide him diagrams and so on. This was the last car my father owned so I want to keep it going. Now that it is up and running lots of small things to fix on it. As always, thank you.
  8. RESPONCE Thank you for responding. I know it is tempting to skip parts on a long post and just respond. But this post is long becouse I wanted to give out all the needed information. Like the part about a new battery already being put in the car. And yes, we did test it more then once. The posability of a bad connection is one of the items we will be running down. The connections that are a easy reach at the battery have been checked with a meter for resistance. Realy need to hear from anyone that has info on what could make the headlights/dash do what it did and how you fixed it. Thank you.
  9. Hi, been a long times since I have needed help. But me and my 1991 Lexus LS400 are back. Had an issue with my starter going out on me. The mechanic I used for 15 years past away so I needed to find a new one. Found a guy who came to me. Started the job and then disappeared never to come back or return a call. He got the new starter in, but that is were he stopped. Found a new guy. Really good. He finished the job along with putting in all new ignition parts due to other guy messing up wires and distributors caps. The car is about 20 thousand miles away from needing that. So I put in all new stuff. Also put in new thermostat, new battery. Mechanic also cleaned intake and fuel injectors. On working on car he discovered an issue with the wiring harness. About 2012 or 2014 I had the front passenger tire blowout. A part of the tire went through to the engine compartment and took out part of the main wiring harness by the firewall. It was fixed by insurance and had been fine. Until now. A wire or two shorted in the repaired are. Making it so the car would not start with the key. If you by past it though the fuse box, car started etc. So he pulled the wires that had shorted (they even melted) and repaired with new. He then took car for a long drive. Even up a very nasty locale car killing step grade. All was OK. He also charged the battery before doing so and tested cooling system along with that the car was charging. He drove the car to me. I drove him back to his place. On the way home my issues started. The car stalled after I stopped at a store and started it to leave. On trying to restart car was completely dead. No clicking. No sound from starter. I sat for about 5 to 10 minutes. And don't know why but tried it again. Car started right up. Starter sounded great and cranked fast. On getting home and keeping the car running the headlights stopped working. They were switched on. The dash acted like they were on. But no headlights. I turned them on and off a few times and they would not come on. But the dash lights started going nuts. Sometimes some of the indicator needles on the mph or rpm or temp or gas, etc., went out. Not all at the same time. Just different ones when I flipped the lights on and of. Turned the car off. It would not restart. Turning the key I got nothing. No click. Nothing. Checked the battery with a smart charger. It was at 11.5 volts. Gave up for the day. Left the smart charger on all night. Car started perfectly in the morning. Headlights worked fine. Dash lights worked fine. Turned car on and off a few times. All good. Restarted car to take a charging reading. Got nothing engine running. No charge from alternator. Voltage had come down to 11.5 volts. I need help. Need to pick your brains. I know it could be the alternator. I know it could be the cpu that controllers the alternator. But I never had a dash go nuts like that before..... I've had low batteries before. Needed jumps before and so on. But never the dash going nuts and no headlights when switched on. Not even dimly lit. So could it be an issue with other wires in that part if the wiring harness? I know if it is the harness it could hurt the alternator and the charging cpu. Help please. I don't want to just throw (expensive) parts in and see what happens. Sorry for the long post. But I know sometimes every detail and so on helps. Now you know as much as I do. Anyone ever have their dash go nuts? As always a great big thanks to all! I edited this to fix typos etc. Also important forgot to mention. I'm in a rual area of Arizona. Where California, Arizona, and Nevada come together by the Colorado River. Las Vegas is the bigist nearby city at a little over 100 miles away. Again, thanks to all.
  10. I took more time trying to find just where the leak is. I saw that the hose from the tank goes to a pipe. But the tube and pipe move easily. Any one have info on where that Line hoes to. I looked for a diagram on google but found nothing.
  11. Will you folks look to be right. I will keep you posted. I checked fluids. Collent tank bone dry. Shame on me! I know better and I seemed to have forgotten to check now and then. As low sensor is not working. Added fluid and it was sucked dry. So added more. Will check in morning with cooled car. Put I think I found small leakage where house from tank attaches to engine. Will clean off and see. Thank for dee help!
  12. Ok folks, here's one I have a 1991 Lexus 400. And I have a problem with the heater. When I try to heat the cabin with the a/c either in auto or manual mode, and even if I keep pushing the temperature up to the maximum temperature I basically get no heat in my car. It does not mater where I have the air set to come out of. For example defrost setting blowing towards the windows. The heater setting blowd it down towards the floor. Also doesn't matter if the AC is on or not, for example in the defrost mode. The reason I say I get almost no heat is I have noticed that if I keep my driving speed up over 65 miles an hour I will get heat. But not as intense as I used to. Now driving at 65 miles an hour, I Drive in the normal mode With overdrive on should my rpms are probably a little over 2,500 or somewhere in there. Could be as high as 3000 but I haven't really made note of it. Also if it matters when I push the control to raise temperatures up or down it does respond with the beep beep beep. I have checked the heater valve in the engine compartment. When the heat is off the valve is in the closed position. When I turn the heater on the valve moves to the open position. So I'm sure the valve is opening. So what am I looking for? Information on what it could be and how to go about checking it. I don't know if it's an issue with my climate control unit. Or the heater volve... or what... Nor how to check anything else As always I thank all of you guys for your kind help!