Regular Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About 914lps

  • Rank
    Advanced Club Member

Contact Methods

  • ICQ
  • First Name

Profile Information

  • Lexus Model
    91 LS 400
  • Lexus Year
  1. RESPONCE Thank you for responding. I know it is tempting to skip parts on a long post and just respond. But this post is long becouse I wanted to give out all the needed information. Like the part about a new battery already being put in the car. And yes, we did test it more then once. The posability of a bad connection is one of the items we will be running down. The connections that are a easy reach at the battery have been checked with a meter for resistance. Realy need to hear from anyone that has info on what could make the headlights/dash do what it did and how you fixed it. Thank you.
  2. Hi, been a long times since I have needed help. But me and my 1991 Lexus LS400 are back. Had an issue with my starter going out on me. The mechanic I used for 15 years past away so I needed to find a new one. Found a guy who came to me. Started the job and then disappeared never to come back or return a call. He got the new starter in, but that is were he stopped. Found a new guy. Really good. He finished the job along with putting in all new ignition parts due to other guy messing up wires and distributors caps. The car is about 20 thousand miles away from needing that. So I put in all new stuff. Also put in new thermostat, new battery. Mechanic also cleaned intake and fuel injectors. On working on car he discovered an issue with the wiring harness. About 2012 or 2014 I had the front passenger tire blowout. A part of the tire went through to the engine compartment and took out part of the main wiring harness by the firewall. It was fixed by insurance and had been fine. Until now. A wire or two shorted in the repaired are. Making it so the car would not start with the key. If you by past it though the fuse box, car started etc. So he pulled the wires that had shorted (they even melted) and repaired with new. He then took car for a long drive. Even up a very nasty locale car killing step grade. All was OK. He also charged the battery before doing so and tested cooling system along with that the car was charging. He drove the car to me. I drove him back to his place. On the way home my issues started. The car stalled after I stopped at a store and started it to leave. On trying to restart car was completely dead. No clicking. No sound from starter. I sat for about 5 to 10 minutes. And don't know why but tried it again. Car started right up. Starter sounded great and cranked fast. On getting home and keeping the car running the headlights stopped working. They were switched on. The dash acted like they were on. But no headlights. I turned them on and off a few times and they would not come on. But the dash lights started going nuts. Sometimes some of the indicator needles on the mph or rpm or temp or gas, etc., went out. Not all at the same time. Just different ones when I flipped the lights on and of. Turned the car off. It would not restart. Turning the key I got nothing. No click. Nothing. Checked the battery with a smart charger. It was at 11.5 volts. Gave up for the day. Left the smart charger on all night. Car started perfectly in the morning. Headlights worked fine. Dash lights worked fine. Turned car on and off a few times. All good. Restarted car to take a charging reading. Got nothing engine running. No charge from alternator. Voltage had come down to 11.5 volts. I need help. Need to pick your brains. I know it could be the alternator. I know it could be the cpu that controllers the alternator. But I never had a dash go nuts like that before..... I've had low batteries before. Needed jumps before and so on. But never the dash going nuts and no headlights when switched on. Not even dimly lit. So could it be an issue with other wires in that part if the wiring harness? I know if it is the harness it could hurt the alternator and the charging cpu. Help please. I don't want to just throw (expensive) parts in and see what happens. Sorry for the long post. But I know sometimes every detail and so on helps. Now you know as much as I do. Anyone ever have their dash go nuts? As always a great big thanks to all! I edited this to fix typos etc. Also important forgot to mention. I'm in a rual area of Arizona. Where California, Arizona, and Nevada come together by the Colorado River. Las Vegas is the bigist nearby city at a little over 100 miles away. Again, thanks to all.
  3. 914lps

    What is wrong with my heater???

    I took more time trying to find just where the leak is. I saw that the hose from the tank goes to a pipe. But the tube and pipe move easily. Any one have info on where that Line hoes to. I looked for a diagram on google but found nothing.
  4. 914lps

    What is wrong with my heater???

    Will you folks look to be right. I will keep you posted. I checked fluids. Collent tank bone dry. Shame on me! I know better and I seemed to have forgotten to check now and then. As low sensor is not working. Added fluid and it was sucked dry. So added more. Will check in morning with cooled car. Put I think I found small leakage where house from tank attaches to engine. Will clean off and see. Thank for dee help!
  5. Ok folks, here's one I have a 1991 Lexus 400. And I have a problem with the heater. When I try to heat the cabin with the a/c either in auto or manual mode, and even if I keep pushing the temperature up to the maximum temperature I basically get no heat in my car. It does not mater where I have the air set to come out of. For example defrost setting blowing towards the windows. The heater setting blowd it down towards the floor. Also doesn't matter if the AC is on or not, for example in the defrost mode. The reason I say I get almost no heat is I have noticed that if I keep my driving speed up over 65 miles an hour I will get heat. But not as intense as I used to. Now driving at 65 miles an hour, I Drive in the normal mode With overdrive on should my rpms are probably a little over 2,500 or somewhere in there. Could be as high as 3000 but I haven't really made note of it. Also if it matters when I push the control to raise temperatures up or down it does respond with the beep beep beep. I have checked the heater valve in the engine compartment. When the heat is off the valve is in the closed position. When I turn the heater on the valve moves to the open position. So I'm sure the valve is opening. So what am I looking for? Information on what it could be and how to go about checking it. I don't know if it's an issue with my climate control unit. Or the heater volve... or what... Nor how to check anything else As always I thank all of you guys for your kind help!
  6. Can you give me more information on this?
  7. Coolent level looks to be good at reservoir. Turned temperature up and down valve moves full range. I will use infered thermometer to check temperature diferance between upper and lower hose connected to valve when open.
  8. Thank you. I will check coolant level and the valve fiction.
  9. My 91 LS 400 heater is not working right. It is only putting out warm air when sent on maximum. I have played around with the settings etc... To see if I could figure out why. Now I am in Arizona and only dealing with outside temps no lower then in the high 40's. As I move the temp setting up and down the system seems to work. The vent and fan settings change as I change the temp setting with things set on auto. The only way I can get some warm air coming out is to go into manual mode. Set to recirculate air. And a/c off. Vent and fan speed seem to make no difference. Any ideas on things to check, etc???? The cars temperature gauge is where it always is after the car warms up. Dead center of the range. Car engine heats up fine. Car runs fine. No indication of a cooling loss/leak. Normally this car puts out really hot air when set on high... So something is not working right. As always thanks to all.
  10. OK only thing I can say is ... Winner Winner Chicken Dinner! You rock! I knew this place could help. Tech me to spend days on the phone with dealer parts departments!
  11. I need help in finding what the real name of this part is and getting one. I am looking for the bushing where the arm on the rear hub connects to the rear torsion bar also called a control arm. Dealer states I need to buy both a "new" control arm and hub! I need this bushing replaced on both the left and right rear of this. But I do not know if it would be called a control arm bushing or ?? The arm has another bushing on it at the top and it is fine. All mettle parts are fine. The part of the arm that is a U shape and bolts over the arm coming off the hub, well that is the bushing I need to replace. See photo.
  12. Changed out thermostat seems to have fixed it. We will see.
  13. WOW 100 views and no one has any info on this... Just my luck.... :chairshot:
  14. 914lps

    '91 Ls400 Fuel Door Won't Open

    I would say if that did not release it, it is not the mechanical part of the latch that is at fault. Must be something bent or misaligned etc., on the inside of the door or the door itself that has it "jammed" shut. Have you tried GENTLY prying it open at the same time someone is pulling on the emergency release? Also found this: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/topic/37394-fuel-door-wont-open/