dpellet

Changed mine out a couple years ago and found out there are 2 types, one for towing, the other is not. They likely put a tow package fan clutch on which never seems to stop engaging. When I compared the 2 they were different. One had much bulkier spring assembly. The tow one also impacts fuel economy.

Did those a while back, dealer can replace with oem there are 3 and you can do it for nothin. Cost me about $18.

Mechanic says it is a rear wheel bearing going, is that plausible? Yes, very plausible. Do both rears if one is bad.

Steady pull pressure and a figure 8 motion. It will eventually come out. Mine was old and took a bit to get out as well.. Pliers worked for me but I replaced it with a new one anyway. Regards,

Ok, had to get to the bottom of this issue as it seems many with 1st gen ls400's are running into problems in this area. I started the process when my water pump went out last year, same time I replaced the thermostat and radiator as they were pretty worn but not leaking (yet). I was weeping fluid out of the top of the expansion tank from the level sensor just like many others. Tried to replace the o-ring but that did not solve the problem and weeping continued. I also noticed that there was never any built up pressure in the reservoir when removing the cap and I also suffered from a lack of heat from my blower on occassion and would have to rev motor to 2k+ to get the heat back. I finally gave in and noticed a new res. on ebay, bought it and found out it was a replacement/upgrade to the former stock reservoir new part number is 16482-50010, not only did they put out a new expansion tank but also changed the level sensor new part #16485-50013 and cap which I do not have the part number for but is pressured to 88Kpa. Now, when I bled the system, everything worked properly and I could see the fluid running into the exp. tank which was not happening before. Once the system loses pressure, ie weeping fuid, you cannot bleed it completely. Now when bled, heat is perfect fulltime. Another thing that happens is your coolant sensor is misreading due to airpockets up high and many are likely suffering from a very rich fuel mixture especially first start of the day. I also got as a bonus the stock sticker advising how to bleed system properly!!! Mine had worn off long ago. Have to give credit though, the car never ever overheated even with such low pressure. Hope this helps some.. Cheers,

Do check all vacuum lines. It's very easy to get one pinched or twisted and restrict pressure to the appropriate valve or sensor. I had one of mine twisted, took me forever to trace it.

Whats the weather been like when you get the pop from the brakes? Any chance of cool damp weather, the type that brings lots of frost? I am western canada and while we were in a week of foggy cool weather with tons of frost I noticed my brakes pop as well especially first go of the day. As soon as the frosty conditions were gone the popping stopped. Only did it when the vehicle sat overnight, regular day driving was fine.

Would not be the first time. An example would be a strut bar, adv. to fit 2nd gen models. when fitted to a 91 it worked perfectly changing how it was advertized. So no, will never second guess my decision to ask a question. thanks.

Curious question. Is the 91 ls400 rear window the same as the 95 or did the shape or size change? Looking to get a roof spoiler and found one for a 95. Thanks,

No longer need to add an aftermarket amp if you don't want to. Beat Sonic has an audio adapter that allows you to retain all factory speakers and your amplifier. It works perfectly and man does it sound worlds above the stock units!

Bummer, sorry for your luck! Good news is the bumper is really not that difficult to remove. Take it to a body shop and see what they recommend while it's on the vehicle. If they say they can fix it then perhaps your own removal and delivery and re-installation will save big bucks!! If it requires relacement I was able to get a refurbished bumper w/o stock mounts for $300 CAD. Had it sprayed to match and re-installed with parts from old bumper, total repair cost $320 plus about 4 hours of my time and a $150 to spray. Make sure you re-use the chrome stip (looked like it was spared from damage and there expensive to replace with new.) Once you get at it it really is not to difficult to remove, leave the bumper bar in place and slip cover over and away from it. Hope this helps!

Yes the other functions on the steering wheel work and the radio has never been worked on......where is the clock spring located? in the steering column? *ALSO another problem I forgot to mention is my mileage reading stopped working? what needs to be replaced to get that going, it stopped at 98,xxx miles?* Clockspring is behind the airbag, is a part of the headlight/turn switch assembly but does seperate from it. IF other functions are ok it may not be the issue. Sorry did not mean stereo s/b steering system. I Have had no other troubles with cruise so wish I could be of more help... Odo meter not working, not to sure on that one.

Are the other funtions on your steering wheel working such as your horn? If not it may be the clockspring. If the steero ing system has been worked on (rack) then it may have been broken during the repair.. Mechanics are notorious for forgetting to lock the steering wheel prior to removing the rack and the result is a broken clockspring.. This has happened to another poster recently and this had happened to them as well as myself. Luckily the shop owned upto the error after some knowledgeable pursuasion and replaced it at there expense.

Any follow up report on this? Having just bought a 91 that's demonstrating the same issues, in Chicago, in the winter... ...recon I'll be doing the same thing. Try to have the system bled, this part of the braking system is not usually bled when standard break work is done especially if done by a non-lexus mechanic. I think it's just neglect over the years that allows a little moisture to get into that part of the system and when it's cold the intitial test does not pass due to lower than required pressure. As you mention as soon as temps moderate you will not have that issue. I'm near calgary so when temps dip below -10C I always had this issue. I used to put a hairdryer in the engine compartment right over the trac pump and let it run on high for a couple of minutes and presto, no problems! Since I bled it seems to be ok. Hope this will help!

I had a chance to look at mine, negative connection looked tight but it was not. I need to change that at some point but I took the advice of an earlier post and put a sheet metal screw in the space between the bat. post and clamp and this has solved the problem. Reverse has no dimming and all other symptoms seem to be rectified. Hope this helps!