steve2006

Hi, According to the book there is no fuse specific to the power seats just a circuit breaker # 31 in the drivers side fuse panel but this also supplies the theft deterent system and fuel flap opening system. I would guess that if you remove the panel at the side of the seat with the switches on then pull off the connectors from the switches this would prevent adjustment.

There have been a few cases where a coin ( a dime if I remember correctly) had fallen into the cigar lighter causing the fuse to blow,might be worth checking.

Hi, This should help you,dont forget to release the parking brake when taking the rotor off and make sure you choc the other wheels. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/brake/rbrotor.html

Re question 4, other owners have had exactly the same problem and up to now no one has found the cause, sorry.

You guys are lucky to pay the price it is, in the UK we are paying around $120.00 for 10 litres (9.5 quarts) The article below is interesting as according to it you cannot mix type II with Type IV. http://dutch.northwestmr2.com/Toyota/celic...20Clutch/05.pdf

Hi, There are a lot of control flaps and servos in the heating cooling system and as Toyodiy have now had to remove thier exploded diagrams I cannot give you the link to them which would have helped no end. One thing to check is the heater control valve on the engine bulkhead just make sure it is opening and closing when required.

The remote and the car are paired so you need the remote keyfob and the Chip together, there was a set on Ebay.com brand new but it was around $300.00 if I remember correctly. Well $274.99 or best offer!!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LEXUS-ES300...sQ5fAccessories

Hi, To find faults to this degree you really need the wiring diagram for the car ( a cd rom copy on Ebay is fairly cheap). You need to check for 12 volts on the amplifier 1st check is at connector G12 which has a grey wire and should have 12 volts present with the ignition key in the ACC position and also check connector F4 on the amplifier (Blue/yellow wire) which should have 12 volts present at all times. If you have nothing on one of these there will be a break in the wiring or a connector between the fuses which you have already checked and the ampifier/cd player. Have you tried moving the connectors/leads to the amplifier with the system on to see if there is an intermittant connection under the seat?

Hi, Welcome to the LOC, According to my book the 45,000 mile A service is inspection mainly but replacement of the oil and filter, engine coolant and AC pollen filter. I wouldn't like to make any suggestions as to whether you do or don't have the service done at the end of the day it must be your decision but obviously don't put saving money against safety.

Where's the waiters neck?

Hi, Welcome to the LOC, From your description and given the mileage covered I would check the engine/motor mounts, the transmission mount and also the rubber couplings on the propshaft. Have a good Christmas. Steve

Do you have a factory fitted mobile phone installation as this can cause problem if faulty as it mutes the sound from the stereo.

I thought it was my computer playing up but now I understand. The amount of times I have posted links on this forum and the UK one to help a fellow member out. Not only that but the local parts guy used to apprieciate the part numbers as it saved him time looking them up, he used to think I was a trade buyer. Very petty attitude by doing this they have made more work for themselves.

Radio Fuse #1(20A) and Radio Fuse #2(15A) are common to the cd changer and the amplifier. #1 is located in the engine bay fusebox and #2 in the drivers side lower dash fuse panel. If blown only replace with the same rating fuses if they blow again you have a defect.

Providing you have fitted the same type of replacement bulbs H1 H3 9003 etc and they have been fitted correctly I can see no reason why the headlights themselves would need adjusting as the beam pattern should be the same only brighter and more blue. The only time I needed mine adjusting was when I replaced the standard bulbs with a HID kit because of the bulbs fitted.

Hi, Welcome to the club, Yes the time display is always on. The drain on the battery is too little to cause problems.

What happened with the old engine that it needed replacing?

Hi, Should be fuse # 1 ( top left of bunch) in the drivers footwell fuse box rated at 25A.

Looks very nice, The only thing of concern is it is 13 years old and not mileage related but the timing belt should have been replaced twice by now ( 60,000 or every 6 years) and if it hasn't there is major expense on purchase plus it should have full service history at that money.

Hi, The uppers normally wear more but generally give a clonking sound when going over bumps and potholes. The lowers do wear but make sure it isn't the bottom ball/swivel joints 1st as these are bolt on and yes they cause the problem you describe.

Hi, You may have more luck on this forum as the guys there have air suspension Celsiors ( JDM LS400's) http://soarercentral.com/sc-forum/messages...html?1260362453

The voltage rating is not critical so 16volts to 25 volts, 25 volts to 35 volts and 50 volts to 63 volts is OK it is just the physical size which increases so be careful with the space available on the board. The main thing is the capacitance is correct i.e. 10uF etc and they go in the correct way round as they have negative and positive connections but any decent radio shop will know this.

You don't say which year your car is but firstly pull the transmission diagnostic codes and see if that tells you anything, check the transmission fluid for correct levels and is it due for replacement?

Check the wiring to the trac pump relay and trac pump, check the high pressure pipe from the pump is secure. To bleed the accumulator. Connect a vinyl hose to the accumulator bleed plug and loosen the bleed plug,start the engine and operate the traction pump motor ( no info as to how but removing the pump relay and shorting out the relay contact connections, pins 1 and 2 should power up the pump motor manually), until all the air bubbles have been bled out. Retighten the plug to 74"LBS ( inch/pounds) or 8.3n.m.. With engine still running top up brake fluid reservoir.

It's also a good idea to remove both caliper bolts so the caliper pins can also be removed,cleaned and regreased as they can seize.