steve2006

Hi, Before taking everything apart just make sure that a coin has not fell inside the cigar lighter as this has happened before.

You can but it is a dealer adjustment only.

Don't be offended but have you put the CDs in the correct way? The playing side not the label side should be facing you when loading the tray ( Pioneer have to be different!)

The 91 model has coils, distributors and rotor arms only the later models like yours have full electronic ignition.

Hi, This may help but I would do a diagnostic readout 1st to save changing unnecessary ( and expensive) parts. http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_2004_LEXU...ETGKA_4805.html

Hi, You haven't searched the forum Look here http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...+steering+wheel

The fuse that will have blown is in the drivers side fuse panel Fuse # 5 rated at 15A ( should be 2nd row from the left middle) this fuse also protects the SRS ( airbag) amongst others which is probably why your airbag light is also on. If after replacing the fuse the airbag light is still on here is the reset proceedure. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/lighting/airbaglight.html

Its the length of the job compared to what you would normally expect. Most starters in other engine layouts are easily accessable, so to have to strip the whole intake system (which are very complicated, but thats why we love them) on these cars just to get to the starter motor, is very frustrating. Thats why I class it as hell. But if you are doing other work like cleaning the throttle body, check valves, replacing valve cover gaskets etc, and you were not pushed for time I am sure it could be a pleasant experience. You just need patience and time. I know it's been a while but I do need your help with removing the starter. I've taken off the Air Chamber, but I have a problem taking off the Manifold, which is under the Chamber and above the starter. It must be off before I can reach the starter. The problem is it won't come off. It feels like something is in the way but I cannot figure out what. BTW, the By Pass Join is on and I don't think it has much to do with the Manifold. So are the Injection Rails which are on the Manifold so I think I can leave them on. All 6 bolts and 4 nuts are off. I can lift the front of the Manifold about 1 inch from the Cylinder Head. But the rear only a one-tenth of a inch. Would you folks remember as you worked on the starter removal what's at the back, behind the Manifold but in front of the firewall? Would you think there may be an extra bolt that prevents me from taking the Manifold out? Thanks in advance. Have you removed the EGR pipe at the rear, the fuel pipe unions, the injector connectors and the two bolts which hold the black plastic loom cover to the inlet manifold ( see picture). Once you have the inlet manifold off the next problem is the rear coolant bridge as there is very little room to lift it off the studs as yet another plastic wiring loom cover sits above it but the loom cover is held in place with 4 bolts 2 at the rear of it near to the heater hoses and then 2 more going down on the driver's side, removing these bolts gives you a little more clearance to remove the bypass bridge. Ensure that the coolant is fully drained or you will fill the rear cylinders with coolant when you lift up the bypass bridge ( plug the holes as seen in the picture just in case)

Mine has these 17" wheels fitted when I bought it although it is a JDM import.

Hi, Search the forum for throttle body cleaning and ICV cleaning your RPM should be 650 when the engine is warm.

Hi, Welcome to the LOC please feel free to introduce yourself on the new members section. As to your problem click on the link below for the information you require. You normally have to lower the steering coluum as far as possible to get the required clearance. http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_2001_LEXU...EAGKA_4501.html

Nice car. Asking price is too high (especially considering it has no nakamichi). You should be able to pull in 7000-7500. Probably about the right price in 2004!!!!

Hi According to the driver's handbook they should be torqued to 103N-m/10.5kgf-m or 76ft-lb.

I had the same problem on my 1994 LS and that was due to the lock/unlock motor having failed ( brushes worn out), I would imagine it's similar on the 2000 model. A lot of cars use solenoids for central locking but the LS is motor driven. With yours being intermittant it may also be a wiring problem,give the rubber cover from the door to the door frame carrying the wiring loom a shake whilst operating the central locking and see if this affects the operation.

The seals that I got were too big and fit loosely on the injectors without the pintle caps. I found a place in town that had the caps and the guy gave them to me. This issue is resolved but now I am tackling the timing belt, water pump, and valve cover gaskets since the car is so far apart already. You are a braver man than me, I do most jobs myself but when it came to the timing belt it went to a local indie.

Buy a JDM LS400 ( Celsior) they don't have an EGR system fitted :D

Wow, really expensive. I was wondering if anybody has changed this part. I posted this on the UK site a while ago as I have an imported JDM LS400 ( Celsior) and it has this to operate the traction control ( well apply the brakes to the rear wheels). As you can imagine it has a lot of pressure in there to operate the brake hydraulics so please don't mess with it unless you know what you are doing. Providing you don't have the trac light flashing ( i.e in use all the time) the canister should last the life of the car. In snow I turn my trac off as it makes little difference to grip and doesn't use up the gas needlessly. Apparently there are specialists that can refill the cylinder if needed but the trac light should come on to indicate a fault should it run empty.

Hi and welcome to the LOC. Firstly do you have an owners manual? If the airflow is poor it may be the pollen filter needs changing as a clogged one restricts the airflow. Regards the CD I think there should be a 6 disc cartridge in there these are normally the Pioneer ones so have a look on ebay. Cheers, Steve

Also add in the fact that with the 4 pot calipers your wheels may not fit over them.

I have just done the same job on my 1994 and had the same problem. I hope the 1995 is similar If you look at the rear of the plastic loom enclosure above the bypass ( where the 2 heater pipes are) you will see 2 10mm bolts holding the plastic enclosure in place, remove these ( fiddly job don't drop them use either a magnet or put some blue tack adhesive in the socket) and then the other 2 10mm bolts futher along the plastic enclosure on the drivers side of the engine ( I assume this is the same on LHD models). This will allow you with a lot of effort to lift up the plastic wire cover enough to get the bypass off the studs ( why they didn't use bolts instead is a mystery). I really had to force mine to remove it and getting it back is no easier. If you haven't fully drained the coolant plug all the inlets with plenty of rags before removing the bypass as coolant will come out and disappear into the inlets/valves/cylinders if you don't. If you look at the picture below the bolts are at the back near the black heater hoses,(one to each side of the centre loom in the picture) and the other 2 bolts are to the right of these.

I'm pretty sure that is an option that needs to be programmed at the dealer. You're correct it is but if you have your servicing done at Lexus ask them as a favour.

I agree. I repaired my starter motor last weekend and managed to adjust the kickdown cable incorrectly ( over adjusted) this resulted in a heavier "jolt" when going into drive and reverse and gave the same gearchange syptoms you have. I thought the kickdown cable was just for kickdown but it also tells the transmission the throttle position as well so alters the gearchange timing accordingly.

It sounds like you might have a bad engine/tranny mount allowing the engine to tilt when under hard acceleration, when the engine moves its possible that its opening the exhaust system, hence the noise.. try "power braking" when your in drive at a stop and if you hear the exaust get louder or feel the engine rock( you might even be able to see the engine move if you have the hood open ) youv'e found the problem Good point I never thought of that, if the engine moves it may have fractured the exhaust and as it rocks the fracture opens up more producing more noise, less back pressure and therefore less power. Have you tried reving the car up high in neutral or park to see if you get the same noise from the exhaust?

It causes nearly every other weird fault so maybe this one too, check the drivers side trunk hinge wiring ( there is a loom going around it, open the loom carefully and check each wire for damage in particular the white wire)

If you "pump" the brake pedal a few times does the pedal travel decrease? If it improves the travel doing this it is normally an indication of air in the braking system so replace your fluid and bleed all the brakes this is the cheap option before you start spending mega $$$