jzz30

that picture kind of looks fake they arent really jumping are they

yea or i just need to add a little coolant

ok i dont have any diagrams and this is off the top of my head. disconect - batt terminal ( i would just take the whole thing out) wait 20 seconds after taking off batt. terminals before any work. remove air duct and dust covers. remove enine undercover drain coolant remove drivebelt ,fan,fluid coupling, and fan pulley, remove radiator, oh sorry thats for the LS the only thing thats different is that no fan to remove and no radiator to remove but you have to remove your reservoir tank. ok continue to remove ac compressor without disconecting ac hoses suspend the compreessor with zip ties or rope or somthingthen remove intake ,ignition coils and high tention cord(under a cover, then remove all of the upper engine covers remove all plug wires and remember or mark how the heads of the plug wires were facing. remove drive belt idler pulley remove all wires that may be in the way to remove the lower timing belt cover. remove distributor capsand rotorsand distributor housings. remove alternator and drive belt tentioner, spark plugsbring engine to TDC (top dead center) on the compression strokethe cam pullies should line up to marks along with the crank pulley remove timing belt tentioner loosening the tow bolts alternately then loosen crank pulley ok then take the pulley off and any other coversthen the timing belt. the water pump is in there also it takes a little working to get the pump off because of is sealaant. then assemble everything back to gethere again. if you have a press then you can reuse you rtiming belt tentioner but if you dont then you need a new one. hope this helps!

yup its the coolant light. in the resovor( thats not how to spell it i know) that sensor seems to go bad alot cus both my LS and SC have that light come on and off. the sensor might just be dirty but i never bothered to look

try TEIN TYPE FLEX you can controll the dampening force but at a kind of high price. as far as drop you can adjust that as high of as low as the shock will allow with the adjusting nuts.

if you take off your trans by your self then its ffairly cheap i got one of my trans fixed for about 350 pieces of green paper but the big money will hit you if they do every thing.

yea go to costco and use their batteries and just take them back every 2 or3 years sor what eve the warrentee is so they replace it for free. so the cost of one battery lasts a lifetime think of changing the battery as general maintnance

really it only costs 7-10k to import? well hello r34 to me but when i get money of course

make sure their insurance doesnt try to cheap out on you and just repaint your bumper cuz thats what happened to me. make sure you make them get a brand new one and check to see if your trunk closes as it used to because mine is no longer the same since i got hit in the back so now i almost have to slam it where as i used to just be able to give it a gentle push and it would close like a vault. so make sure that woman pays for what she has done!

keeping emissions down prevets power from going and plus the average buyer isnt a hot rodder

wow! that almost as good as new!! but is high pressure meaninf high pressure water? wont water get to the nuclear reacotor parts?(electrical) or is ok?

which big brakes do you have?

yea a lot of lot cars didnt have those screws to hold on the rotors so it should be ok :D

try slam the brakes on a rainy day and its easy to lock up. but im preatty sure that it has abs. try and pop your hood and i think its on the passenger side (i might be wrong) there should be a block of aluminum with alot of brake tubes coming out of them thats the abs unit. cars without abs dont have this manifold.

how much flow do you get from stock injectors?

try tein typ flex for maximum adjustability and brembos all round for brakes (get the red ones cuz they are lookin goooood)

oil can leak from the distributor since it does connect to the cam shafts is involved in engine oil. theres an o-ring that seals it. but you should take a look and see for your self if its actually leaking. find an auto electronics repair shop that specializes if repair and or rebuild alternators and starter motors and they should give you a preaty fair price but if oil is leakin than get that fixed first.

it keeps steering effort at a constant even when the pump rpm varies. and you should change that.

it has traction control i think it should have ABS after all mercedes cameout with it in the 80`s

heres a fun way to find out if your car has ABS. go fast and slam the brakes and see if your tires lock up but dont hit anything

the parking brake uses a drum brake system inside of the rear brake. if you remove the rear rotor(remember to release parking brake when doing this) you will see a drum brake assembly. i dont know how to adjust it but i doubt its havging up. try and put you car id drive and see if it moves with your parking brake on. if it does it means that you brake arent working at that pint its not you parking brake heating everything up but it should hold your car in place. now release your parkiong brake and if it moves smoothly without trouble then your parking brake shouldnt be the one thats hanging up

i dont see why you couldnt you are only changing bumper which is basicly the same as the older ones but with a grill and different design up front and is as low to the ground as the black air dam thats on the older ones

if your motor is stock you atleast need a new head (the gte hea) if you want to turbo the stock motor i think two turbos are one two many you need a whole list of things like waste gate if it doent have one in it already bov pipes more pipes intercooler, turbo manifold, and tuning probably alot more stuff than i listed

you have a spare rim right vmf try and change it one by one untill you see which rim is bent and making noise and vbdenny the directional rim doesnt matter that much unless your doing lots of braking disk brakes can dissapate heat fairly well without the help of a rim