Lexls

Yeah, I wasn't totally sure on the whole 10/11 thing but what you said makes total sense. I think will will make some revisions to that area. Thanks for the info, I appreciate it.

I had to replace just about every part in the system to get my A/C to work....it cost a ton. I can't remember the exact problem but I do remember my mechanic telling me there was a major clog in one of the parts.

It started!!! All is good :D Lucky I was able to find someone with a plug in charger. I charged it for 2-3 hours and then gave it a try and it started the first time. Thanks for the quick help guys :)

Replace it! It is indeed possible to put a new piece of foam on the speaker. Find a speaker repair shop and let them do it if you don't want to go with an aftermarket sub.

Well, I'll bring it inside and try charging it for a while. If it proves to be dead I'll bring it back to sears for a new one. At least it's still under warranty :) I'll let you know what happens.

Ok, I'm back from a great vacation guys, but unfortunately my car is dead . My car has sat outside for a week in sub-zero temps. Today it's 4 degrees and I have been trying to start it up with no luck so far. I would really like to hear your thoughts on this, here are the symptoms... -When I try starting I hear a rapid clicking. The clicking corresponds to the ignition key light ring blinking. -Engine does not turn over at all. -Instrument cluster, lights, stereo, CCU, etc. all turn on when the key is turned. -The battery is less than a year old. -No corrosion on the battery terminals. -Battery leads are bolted on tight. -Battery read 7v so I hooked up another car to charge it for about 10 minutes. Tried it again and nothing at all, no clicking even, nothing. After a few more turns of the key the clicking noise above returned, but again, no start. Is it possible that since it's been sitting so long in the bitter cold that the engine and/or starter just froze up? That what I currently think. Does something electrical need to be reset? ....did the starter die (I certainly hope noooooooo!)? I always thought something like this was a battery problem, but I charged it up and still nothing....should I just wait until it warms up? Any ideas?

I build my own systems. My main ones use AMD 64-bit 3000+ processors with 1 - 1.5GB RAM in each. I upgrade every 6 months or so, whenever the prices have become somewhat reasonable. I use a Samsung 192P 19" LCD monitor for each. The monitors are calibrated periodically with a Gretag Macbeth Eye-One. Everything is networked and is connected to a 4Mbs cable modem.

Man, I wish they didn't change the part numbers! The part number I listed came straight from my parts catalog....its an older printing though. It's annoying that they change them. Anyway, good to hear you've found a replacement.

I'll add a note on there saying 90's only have one piston. If one sliding pin doesn't have a notch then it is different. Thanks for sharing your comments regarding this procedure :).

You can just buy the glass... for the RH side the part # is 87931-50011.

With the money you saved you should go out and buy an impact wrench ;). I helped a friend install coilovers on his car a few months ago. We tried for a long time trying to take off the nuts/bolts that hold the struts on...no luck, so we gave up for the night. The next day he bought a bunch of air tools. We tried the bolt again with the impact wrench and the nut came off in about 1 second! I now have an electric impact wrench and can't wait to use it!

Glad to help :) The yellow is actually glass cover over the bulb.

Congrats on the "new" car and welcome to the club

You need to rebuild your PS pump ASAP! If possible, don't even drive the car until it has been replaced/rebuilt.

Sorry to hear about this during the holiday... Yeah, I think the screen on your steering rack is clogged. If the PS came back it probably means that the fluid found a way to get through. Even though it seems to work now you need to clean the screen ASAP. After that do a complete flush and you should be in business. http://www.lexls.com/psflush.html

Merry Christmas . Have fun everyone :D

For a 90 LS you won't have any problems except losing the memory systems described by the others, and the ECU will be reset (no big deal). If it's cold in your area any car can have starting problems if left for days. Sometimes batteries just die randomly. Changing it is a simple swap. I've got a DieHard Gold. It has started up even on the coldest days here in MN. Yesterday it was around -10 and it still started.

That's a good deal. They're nice guys too.

This is for a first gen but your 95 should be similar: http://www.lexls.com/front_courtesy.html

Hmmm, that's strange. Just keep an eye on it over the next week or so. No need to take everything apart if it still works. It's definitely winter now , I have to freeze tonight because my girlfriends car isn't starting....hopefully I can fix it. Hey, you and your son should come to the next MN Lexus club meet since you're really close. It's just a few guys right now but it's still fun.

They do and these problems usually surface when it gets cold. The LS backlighting can definitely go out, and usually does for 93-94 models. It's not that the lamp breaks, it's that the caps fails. For some reason, maybe to cut costs, it seems that Denso started using lower quality capacitors in 93. These didn't hold up as well, especially in the cold. In the cold, clusters will be half lit up or not light up at all. The 93-94 clusters have this problem but the 90-92 clusters usually don't.

Hey, you're in the the twin cities...where about? If it gets a little warmer I could help you and your son with this sometime. It's a bit cold for car work now unless you have a heated garage.

Remove the cluster: http://www.lexls.com/instrumentcluster.html Then you have to remove the power source unit on the back (the circuit board with the metal cover over it), then you'll have access to the bulbs. The shift position bulbs are in the middle, obviously, twist them counter-clockwise to remove them. The bulb itself pulls out of the blue socket. It can be replaced by a Sylvania 2721 bulb...I think that's the right one... This is really easy for me but may be quite hard for you. Getting the cluster out is the hardest part. Once you have it out you just need to be very careful not to jar the cluster and not the break any circuit boards or wires. While the cluster is disassembled check all the bulbs ;). Good luck!

Denso or NGK are both fine. The factory uses the platinum ones but both of these companies have developed even better spark plugs since then. If you're worried then go with what your manual recommends. Remember, posts on the forums are not necessarilly true, it's just an opinion....and that may be right or wrong. ;)

Thanks bud. Email me before you send em, I've made a few changes.